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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 4, 1904)
may N CbaRa tm Astwaaa Styles. EW TORK. Sept. x- it has been several weeks sine autumn styles and calortmca began to put la u appearance, but hp ta this ment they have ben coldly re ceived. J"ars and . feathers and October toda and JeUoma are without taste, ro M peak, when the thermometer to la tbe 90s. It to only when tbe season for them is Immediately Imminent that' fashions for a,- new period ara appreciated, and then, ta tb twinkling ef aa eye, former beauties become, by comparison, without salt or SAYOT. , Looking upon the new things which now spread their charms in every shop and private establishment, the heart is com pletely weaned from old loves. Xliere is a Sy and e&UuM air about tb rolling brimmed and feathered bats that brings a genuine contempt for the bite Sat and decreed styles. Ths iong coat, too. which, to a marked decree, replace the short boleros, repeat the same generous and ro mantic note. There to a look of nmpli tuds about lbem all. as If the spirit of the soaker eras too large to atop at trifles and as If material was plentiful. Bartons are big and the tails of tbe coats they ornament sometimes fall within a foot f the ekirt hem. The cuffs of the sleeve ' of lheae coats ara likewise lavish In cV f or certain sorts mount with a stiff rakl.-3i-acss to the elbow. The mannish air of such details has not coma by accident. The long cuff Is a Suggestion of the French revolution, aa well as the velvet or ribbon cockade upon number of the hats. Side by side -with these dashing reminiscences of a gruesome period are encountered the soft Watteau Uk modes of the Louis XV epoch, pointed bodices, such as young Mirie Antoinette herself might have worn; frivolous aleevea that stop at the elbow, and wide, swathing girdles that bold la the flgare with tha Id stiffness. The most usappredatlr q matters at rinuc'toTCuiBM cannot nut admit that feminine dress baa reached a point very nearly ssDroochlnr ncrfeetfcm. tlonal .and commonplace fashions must necessarily continue to exist, but the trae !eante ta dreas will be plcturesauetr charming. This point, however, as far aa tbe dressier cost nines are concerned, Is not gained through exaggerations. Sleeves are no larger than they should be and skirt no wider and longer, for all efforts to es tablish the Instep skirt for elegant uses having been la vain, dressy Jupes or now one length. Front and back they hoar a slight fall upon the floor, a round fall, becoming and fairly practicable. The forme of the new skirts are too many to be enumerated, but It is evident that the models with narrow aprons nnd drnped side brendtha will be much In vogue, Other akirt in thin and drossy materials for such Jupea ara usually for slegant aervtoe abow perfectly - uncored breadth, fitted with tucka or pleats at tha hips. At the bottoms tbe akh-ts ara trimmed round with entre. deux of all aorta, baada of ribbon gimp and velvet and deep folds nut on to Imitate tucks. The gathered waists of those littls toilettes, which are seen In tbe airiest veO. ' logs, abow a. girlish roundness and are girdled nigh by tba Inevitable wide belt. All sorts of collar and capo and yoke offecta lengthen the shoulders; and the tops of the bouffant elbow-length sleeves fit ' Very flatly. The coat gowns are extremely plain, and broadcloth and many smooth and diagonal wools are used for them. . Ajuethjrst purple' ta a sow ahado neon in tha mixed wool textures. Black or whits shows with it ,A walking gown of such a material Is sonde with a long, tkrht-fittin ldiagot and plain gored skirt. Marrow bends oX the stitched material ornament ths coal; which la worn over a cream net bodioa. amoral dhir ad with spots la black chenille. This shows In a vest at ths frost or the coat, tbs puffed atoeves rIl tag like tmderstnevss below tbs boll- owe of tbs coat. Tbs ttfht-flttlng sodlngots baa been much approved for street suits in heavy materials, and, though a number of auoh costumes ara plain, others shew braids ' and applications of velvet. The plain idt bats, with solans; boat brans' and bugs velvet rosettes, so wH with these. Mt with tbs l-rnri harked . mt vlOca am an eb a suHDber ta Tb loss; coat wftb betted back of tbs Summer appear wttk svatsatn chasac ha wany stout saatarhUa, Smooth surface tax tares ar saors sons than sroii or hairy eases, and bass these solf-rri a with ttU&st bias bands ssasss ts bo m Cad mt fSasi bs, be recognized In these kmecoat models,, which have been long enough predicted.-' The change In bats seems to come mora Suddenly. Yet ail at once- aadadoosly curling brims, high crowns and bold trim ratings conceive whatr appears To be tbe only correct headgear. As to its -material, trier are enough sorts to supplya!l taste, though silk boaver and velvet and ehenrtle braid are offered for first wear. With the hats of suffer brims, such as the velvet or taffeta, covered shapes, pot crowns are seen, some quite live or six Inches Ugh, and tapering smaller at the top or straight. , Dented crowns on a blunt Alpine order mark many of' the soft felts, whose trim mlngs ran to velvets employed to produce the effect of shadings. Shaded schemes are much In vogue, satin ribbons In differ, ant tones achieving them upon on head- "WTde velvet scarfs are often draped -there, or s paradise onus irlft airly against the batr from a velvet rosette, ' . - Shaded paradise birds are novelties seem tSroBnd tbe crowns of other bats, tbe won derfully tinted tan "rurrnTmg directly from 'a beaked bead ta the deepest tone f ths color employed. A theater chapeau - so decked Is of old pink felt with- the bird shading to white. But to reach tb saBent point of antararr asd winter mflliswry. ft has gr-no np in -height sad lessened in circumference. It baa become bulky, thick, eambersoaas vfrid ' yet. with It all. becoming to tb majority of wearers. Tha heavy look is ta great measure due to tha shapes advanced, which ' tbs big rosettes and velvet and ribbon rosea do not lighten. Many a headpiece lias ' - TWO PHASES OF THB KTW COAT STUKKT OOWN. piece, and softer ribboua or leathers upon ' another. RoaoUes and A folded crown band " of m. faith xiiibam in radium tones 4ak n silk beaver la palabrowa.' A white Celt for theater wear has narrow puffings of bast oraago velvet mnnleg oddly srosnd tb brim, under which at tit left aid 4rons s wide ostrich feather ahading from. a rich orang to pare white. Quantities of ostrich feathers are to be worn this winter, though only the bouquet lik plum that comes from the male bird win be cmnlored. Whole parrots and par twouota wUl also dock tbe fronts or sales of walking shapes, while tb wider quills wtfl be trimmed la every tastasca. A recently imported hat of seal brown beaver showed the brilliancy Kith which ths French modiste now chooses te employ these ono stiff and uninteresting deckings. Two tors wide brown onftls at the left Skis war bordered at tb feather sag with a suvrrew-shsded srang velvet, and d's played down tb steal three graduatlug ro settes of ths same. - .Tbs resettle which trims another bat trlm saing to a very Oat affair. It to seaerslly Bead f nsrisw imfTlwg. gathered at atlddls sad onter sag and appltod as flatly as eco brolderr. Sfasy dorloes are used ts saak stiff shapes becesnse. Walking bats that Bft wide brass) gmtaiuealy high at both funs setfanes St tbs asct jn i th air -x bdag overbabiMed at ' some point. It looks as if tt snlgM tan off K you said boo! Te. wben yea cosDo-ta examine the sslracle Jtm flnd that ths bead fit into It.ss tf to ths strsctar bars. Mil lner fingers sr always conning; but ta - the adaptation of these tbeatrlcal-looklng styles ts ' overy day needs they seem to nave don wonders. , In tb wearing of vetis there to s tend ency to drape many scarf-Caahtoa ar.-rund the throat, tbe sad falling at side or hack. Very toaig scarfs of chUTon or lac are used for this nxanlpulatlom. which appeared dur ing tb snauner la Paris, and to still much admired there. CUffan veils are in bril liant hues-seartet. smethyst and trlght Una. One cad of these veils, as with most of tb scarf sorts, win atoo fens tbe hat trinuntng. hfABT TKA1, Interests in Turkey (Coattaoed from Fago Five.) - saw navdrlna that evwrythlneT tainted pass tb board of oesaoesbis. Iters sgasa ca , prioe and Ifvwusf tewcy Sad tbdr disaax la i sadless delay. Thar to a good resssn for ' rttuoag fcrmbades for tb prtetuas; of a eartaia saaausB'.lpt sebsattsed to ths cen- Indeed. Ta manusrvipt ba.hos In the bands of the sensor for. a weok, amp la Urns tor tssr th reported DX A week passes: tb script bas bean Untold. A month pssees; a new law of the press requires an manu scripts o be submitted to a seoond bureau. Tbe two bureaus of censors get at logger heads with each other. Months pans; the little booklet. Intended for New Tork cir culation, 'to In June still In the censor's hands. Not long since the manuscript of fi. took in Greek was held back for a full year. It was a book on ths Ssnday school lessons prescribed for tbs year 1301. It Should have been on tbe market ta No vember. BBS; permissloa was given for its Printing fat September. UOS. In recent years asy book of history prepared; la tbs west baa been proscribed. It to Impossible t bring -an atlas Into the nountry through tbe custom bouse which has the word "America on It. Ones a woman bad to leave her English. Bible is the custom house and it was returned to her after two years. These are but two of a thousand and on cases of lawless and, vexatious procedure on the part of cus toms officers throughout the country for many years past. 7 Last year one of tne'olonr is ofnssurs of Ruphrates college, a man whose whole past record places him above suspicion of any form of disloyalty in' conduct or In Influ ence upon his pupils, was with six pupils thrown Into prison and kept there for more thaa half a year. He was subjected to great indignity and a severity of treatment v r that undermined bis health.' and when, after every effort to hasten bis trial Anally resulted ta bis guttling a hearing, he and -bis pupils were found to- be entity of no crime or offense whatsoever. ' - 1 . ; . A SKi op nCATV TS A JOT POUVTt. DR. T. FICTLSX OO-RAnDm ORIKJfTAXi CKEAai, OK MAOtCAX, KKaDIirUUl .wn man ml UW SKin Mlr, and datcetoe. It hu and tea trtt . of oo maw la mm aarailasa w tatta M to mm sure it u praparl f eaule, Jueat nt m eaasleiw t&t Of SiHilkt xjum. I.i. U. A. Savce wmM to a , -. bmir mt toe tout- ' toe ( vpsneat)! Ai yon l4iei reeemmaad 'Ceutaiur Crass l Ui luut barmfal of til hr- V.n prapsrallom.1 Tot ule by all lrae(lU :.nd Fucy Goola lMalua in -M V. 8., PaTwiUs. aad Ktirof. ri.R0. T. HOPUNS. Prop'. 17 arsat Joom St, C fc BEAUTY TO look well take care of your ntmplexKM. Vo aui allow ua slghUg' plinpiei. bickiMads. tan. rr fieckie M btemlso yosr skla. Derma-Royals wTI rcruve tbcae like eugiG, CAtrr txioraa ana latter. V& with Dfiha Rovals Soap, a aertaci skia is tuaured. SOLD BY ORtf3STS, raay to ordered timet DeraBS-Reyalc, ft per bettla, xsrsssps. . Denns-Koyale Seep, 25 Cents, by ssanV Jioth tatd paefcase, SI.28, express paid. THE DEJiMA-ROYALE CO Ckciaaatl. a chaefra Gat lvie araC EirV?i VXK r Kit i lAAKEIt35ROS I "d'S. ' i umi im.fii i . . .Jti