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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 17, 1904)
mm mmximwmwmmmmimi?mmt Het Weather Clothes. r - EW YORK. July 15,-SJnce fire cracker and burning weather are usually synonymous terms, the styles which have appeared with July have a tropical charm. Raiment for man and maid suggests the en ay-going of sun-klKed lands. It looks as If it were not premeditated,- but Just grew, like the leaf on the bough. Brojd houldered men, who have stepped Btralnht from Gibson drawings, go by In light llan nels, whose loose flt marks the cork of fashion's walk. Straw suilors or panama alplnes top their closely cropped cranlurns, and alongside their tig patent leather alioes trip the bottlnes of a maid whose 'trottolr skirt calls for faultless footgear. Smart dog-day folk are faultier every where, and the washable textiles they now affect have a Bpeclal seductiveness. Fiom head to toe they look as If they were eternally tubbing, which Is really the case, for without this bandbox freshness the finest summer getup Is a failure. In the shops the onlooker Is quite be wildered by the array of frocks alone, whose white or delicately tinted mateilila hint of cool sherbets and Julep straw, for auch toilettes a-e affected by tho summer girl for her own pleasurlngs. The gowns are cheap, too, wondorfully so, considering the cost of labor, for $17 will buy visions In printed net or others of mouneellne and lace In ravl'hlng colors. The amount of work on them seems In credible, insets and tucks rroxslng ond re crossing, shirring and puffs often nil on one gown. Black velvet ribbon in a long knotted aiiah und threnuings of the nar rower sort through lace relievo simile greens and brownish yellows, a touch of the sanio somottmrs appearing on the broad-brimmed hut. which. If It li doing tho very latent, sports a rose as bis as a saucer. but more of the drc-sy gown nnon, for every-day wear Is the main thing to con sider, the get up that puwsrs tho cart horse with Its straw bonnet, that looks proper and feels g'-od for any Ir'.p about town, or any trip out of it. ' For this purpose a silk shirt-waist frock la pre-eminently first choice, for these lightly and loosely made little costumes are delightfully cool. The paler color.! are preferrrd by many to tho dirker onrs, lUht backgrounds with delicate stripes or shot effects and tho costumes are usually made up without other crnament than tucks and shirring. At a recent shop sale silk shirtwaist frocks in very pretty models wre sold for ' as low as $10, which buyers versed in mat ters of dress embellished with little touches, Skirts too lcng were tucked uhovn the plain hem, thus improving their appearance greatly, while tucked vests of white mull or lawn were added to unbecoming wnlst. , The huge bishop sleeves, which undersized persons cannot wear, were also frequently altered, clover maids cutlTng them Into ahortlsh bells under which were worn filmy white tinderpuffa. It Is wonderful how these slight changes and glimpses of white relieve the hnrdncs of these gowns, for admirable as one Is willing to ndm't them, untrlmmed effects are not always enhancing. The skirts of all summer walking gowns are extreemry ahort and stitched flatly at the hi pa. the flare beginning usually just -above the kneea. Many smart little Jacket effects accompany those hi the Imported linens, araaiiea and ducks, whose under Sleeves and vesta are, sometimes of. coarse white net with biases and applications of the gown texture. A striking little frock of this description la f deep robln'a egg blue, with the net applied with huse disks. With such toil ettes a Trench fad Is to. have the hat ond hoes match, both being made of white canvaa and trimmed with the gown mate rial. For more practical use still, a pleated skirt of brllllantlne or black taffeta to be worn with wash shirt waists is first choice. Comfortable hot weathsr shirts much In demand are of white madras, tailor made. These are soft finished everywhere, even the little stocks supplied with them being without starch. In adjusting them under the crush betta worn very little pouch la allowed at the front. The front bodice drop. In fact to coin wit In an directions, . and the smartest Imported gown have al ready noma of the high busted, stiff look of the Louis day. i I Numberless are th ready-made stylos In l"Pn1ve suiting gown, excellent ef fects In which sell for $3.Ta Dull blue and sage green are good pices In there, and b pining ef whit give ruch al ready cool hues an added freshness. The nnestion of hot-we-Uher hats, shoe, pern-ill and gloves la even mere easily decided, for the shop are bursting with them. Plain sunshades of green or deep blue are found helpful against the rays of old Sol, and the lighter the tint of the tan shoes the more restful they are to the feet. With even gowns in deep colors say In blue or brown foulard, which Is a delightful summer texture white canvas shoes are worn, sometimes sensibly flat as to heel and broad aa to aole. But for the most part summer foot coverings are giddy things of rather narrow toes and high French or military heels, and when one considers the Increasing shortness of skirts the fact la not surprising. Nevertheless, a word to the brave, for much hangs on the comfort of the feet Medium heels will keep you young longer, and a little extra width of sole may even ward off sunstroke. Then- If you really be seen. This, of course, la becoming to the youthful and well preserved, bat the unllned stock, which Is as tight fitting and high as ever. Is naturally more In demand. With the dressy day gowns there are grades of pongee which admit of a delight ful elegance, for with the finer qualities hand embroideries and beautiful laces are used. French knots mea-Sr over every-' thing, creatine a sequence between ma terial and trimming and effecting a prodi gal look, aa If one "could afford things." Sometime a faintly yellow pongee ia decked with a. flowered ribbon, producing a Watteaa air daintily charming. One such gown ha the ribbon run under coarse torchon In the same shade of cream, the colors showing dimly through. No summer material Is cooler than pon gee, which, In the coarser weaves and mwWTK"ocillJm FOULARD AND THEIR LITTLE DAUGIITKR3 wish to enjoy the summer, get "bare foot sandals" and wear them (for propriety) over thfckiah stockings, and wherever and whenever possible. One dollur and 75 cents la the cost of the best of these sandala made, but since they are In tan leathers many persona leave them to be stained black. Twenty-five cents - additional la charged for this, and two days are needed for the work. To conclude this Important point of the summer get up, gauae lisle stockings nrs cooler than cotton and equally delicately fin can be had In them at 31 cents th pair. Now to Jump back Into hats, bodices and th finer gowns, and to touch moment upon the simple and eiegnnt lingerie worn with them, ! Wide browned straw Bailors, 1 plainly bonded with black or white, are the popu lar headpiece which are varied by flxy dressers with floating veils In plain or chenille spotted tissue. Whit and not color - marks th fashionable odd1 bodice, whether shirt waist or fancy waist, and some of the newest of them are taking t soft round collars, which let all the throat made up plainly, shape trim Utile knoct about gowns Tec grownups and sul'a and dresses -for tiny boys and Klrls. PI rap sandals and whlta socks provide cool foot co votings for tots of both sexes. Gut the straw aallors for small beys are much big ger than those for girls, whose aoost mod ish headpiece are lingerie affairs ef pleated lace, lawn or mulL As to th real lingerie, beware above all things the starch pot If you wish to keep cool In summer, and regard rather the purehaso of many simple things to a few elaborate ones. For chemise and drawers American lawns with edge of Valenciennes lace, provides a eorafortabU and dainty texture. Thin nainsook la better for night dresses, who midsummer cut runs to deoollet neck and ahort sleeve. Pretty ones in th market are trimmed at these points with narrow wash ribbons, run through a bias of lawn and finished with bows. These, though they are very care fully made, cost but It cents, at which price the immensely , wide - drawer worn, in quit elaborate designs, can also be had. Preferred summer petticoat are in all cases In wash textures, embroidered Cham brays In delicate colors providing smart ones for walking gowns. Dress np Jupons are either in white wash material or else In pale silk with white trimmings. Th wash ones are fetching and seem the daint iest part of the getup when a skirt is lifted to show the fine flounces and volants of effective lace which embellish them. In such a shape a whit petticoat and silk kimono sacque provides a negligee as cool as charming. Printed handkerchiefs showing bandanna colors are used for some of the novelties In these comfortable little kimonos. MART DKAN. Frills oiMFasb.Ua. A novelty in turban toques shows a double brim. The hats of fall will have a medium high crown and undulating brim. Antique chains of steel beads and pend ants mixed with coral are effective. A new notion In traveling coats is to Wear check woolen which can be rendered Waterproof. Feathers that droop and sweep and fall have greatly taken the place of flowers in the millinery world. As accompaniments of shirtwaist suit are belts of gold or silver tissue embroid ered In Japanese effect. Candle shades are almost exclusively of bead work, the silver and opalescent effects being the handsomest. Another shapo which la being launched by Parisian milliners, though with nothing like the success as the Dlrectorie, is char acterized by a dented crown. For the traveler is a case that comes In handy if luncheon is carried on board train or boat. The case is about the size of a cigar box and contains knife, fork, spoon, tea strainer and collapsible cup. Lunch cloths for bungalow or country home fitted up with rustic or mission fur nishings are made of coarse linen in gray or tan shades, with borders in some gay", contrasting tone. Coin purses in the latest edition are made to carry three sixes of coins, the nickel, dime and quarter. They are made in a three-cornered shape, like a flat acorn and a cover opens on a hinge to show tho coin receptacles. A woman who has Just come into posses sion of a new traveling bag is likely to up. -preciate a gift in the form of a sachet, for the bag. As space is usually at a premium, this sachet should be made as thin us possible. Use a single layer of wadding and cover with thin silk or mull. Here Is quite the coolest thing on record In the way of underskirts. They are of grass linen In the natural color, thin and sheer as these things always are, and each with a single ruffle with the edge embroid ered. The embroidery varies somewhat in elaboration, though but little, if any, in attractiveness. In some skirts the em broidery Is In the color of the skirts and in others Is white. The smartest hats of the moment are the broad-brimmed Directoire shape with the jam-pot crowns, trimmed with a flat band of leaves set closely round the crown, a couple of huge peonies of different tone of the same color, and a knot of velvet and satin laid flat on the brim at the back, the same satin, or perhaps more flowers, ap pearing under the brim at the left side, where the hat Is lifted on a bandeau. A pretty white embroidered shirtwaist opens at the side. It Is finished on this edge with deep scalloped points and fastens on each of these points with a small pearl button. The upper part of the bodice la tucked to give fullness. The embroidery comes In attractive designs and the gen eral style Is a little different from the ordi nary and very pretty. The cuffs and stock are formed of alternate bands of lace and lawn, of which the waist ia made. A sicm op hBAirrr is a jt v forever. R. T. 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