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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (April 10, 1904)
VfrU&iM MW X. I I B 17,. I V Y MiJZX&yM W'im K f Z S i , M&ito it't Hrvlvlns Aa-eleot (yls. KW YOI'.K. Aprti .-"To te really' I captivating." declares a Frer.ch I writer somewhere, "a woman J must be both feminine and fool- '""VwlJ Ish in dress." However thin may be. there Is n doubt that the world In returning as fat us It can to a period of adorable foolishness. IFanl sense, as once expressed by I ht cut-urd-drled ta made. l with the newest clothes at least, virtually a thing of the past. Narrow skirts have KMwn wl . hltfvi-m billow and nnng like the arm rovi-r-ir. In the old book of beauty, and hats iir becoming sillier iind iwri'lr every day. What does It hII mran? S mply that the periods from which these quaint coquet ries ire being harvested were o-pe?la:ly ornamental in matter of dress. Ho, wilh necessary nullifications, the least extrava gant detail i whirh exbded bet wen IWKt and 11 are b"lng used, and with charming ff IH tS. It Is Intoresi in to propeily catalogue these iltjl!n, for i the world at Urge everything I WW. But only the long hhoulder mum and low srmhole bring ud. tin- pelerine tippets and minor point cun from thin period. All the rest to a lartre extent get their Inspiration fn m wur-t'iii" modi Is, mid delicious iiiratinii tiny si r , too An Imported gown now bt lug shown by u well known lirni reproduces to n T tho (il.iinl frivolities of nil old Iwi'l fashion plate. The mater'al of the modern ci.s t ii tin- li chinnpiinnc-colorcd veiling and that of the ancient one "French silk li a sprigged wall-paptr design." The fckilt of each one Ih ornamented Willi time plain flounces put on with a silk rurhlng; the bodice of each Is soft white, gather' d full and top'd by a Jn ket cut on exactly the name linen. It Is the ramf rone, even If one Is a "bolero" und the other a "i niave," ami the blouse underneath the lute cvcalion Ih only another name for the "spencer" of e ancient dayn. In the old-fashion plate the woman or rather dnmvel, for she can be no more than M wwirn "a poik-ple hat with a dandy feather." us went the circus mux of lho dayn. She nlso ea riles a tiny wl:t:e i-ilk parasol Covi reil with black Chnnlilly, In the exact form I'arisUn belles and old women here use en volture. Tin pork-pi' hat likewise lim It 19n ulster. Made of mnllnea und chiffon, m'n Kled with Htraw and horsehair bruld, this turban Is everywhere een In ready-to-wear shaw, neediiiK only a scrap of trim mln and costing Just $-l.5'. Then tb undersleeven' and muslin n:nip of former days may be bought separately an of yore, und they are considered all the more frtcblutr If they show the simple) lace headings and velvet drawsULnjia of thom long burled times. Th "Kunbout" turban of civil war days also comes down under the new name Of the torpedo. There are many variations en thin style, but for the moat part the shapes are all pointed at the front and Liu nt at the back, and show swathing ti tniming Another lint which appeared some where along the centuries hs lent tt.4 pattern for a pleasing headpiece. This Is Ukewlte a niwvles of turban, but the cury ing sWi'S uliiMJHt meet nver the top of the crown, forming a sugar scoop front and a bark that drops down In a tall. I'pou this tall an oval velvet rosette, In softly shiKled qollliiin.-. Is often pWd flatly, slid two narrow Killed quIIU art) stuck raklshly through the left brim. "rlorlbe quills" these slim ornaments might well be called, for ut the feath ered end they are scurecly wider than the uld-fashloiiet pens. A hut influenced by colonial traditions U called by till name, the popular shape slioH'lug a very spreading brim, wliletl Is held up to the crown nt the side fronts Willi trimming of sume description. This feebly suggest the colonial tricorue, Willi mole hcvomtiiKncH than tlie smaller and coriecter sliais? sesses, unless the lat ter Is covered with (lowers and lies. Kierywhvrc It Is noticed the h.mtocss of the .anallcr straw idiipcs Is being softened, straw quilling tied rosettes appealing niouixl the brim of lurtmna when a more elalsirate effect Is not desired. An effect strikiiqily feminine Is made bv drupliu; the -dgu of wide brim shapes with luee. Wreaths of rosea are pi. ire I ut the top of tie crowns of tlu.-e, and much ribliuii U U ed Oil them. The subject of modern titilixitlcn of old-rAshloucd fripperies Includes tin- dlx ctission of the hated hoop. In all like MioimI the ins iel.lly rai; oiic empl iyrd for the ballooning of skirt will never la tum In Its ancient form. The boopskirl wss Inconvenient, very. Gymnastic were nsiwaoary for decoruu-s r-uli whuu sit- ' ting down, and only on wotnan could pass down a street or ride In a rarrl ige at a tltm-. So the world will never ngain receive the large ones, but little onrs, or means which prod K-e the look of small hoops, nie threatening. Introduced Into France by the Kinprcss F.Jigriile, the hoop eiio.ved 111 the sixties an Immense vogue. Hut to be effective the: plain skirt of former years could not he worn over It. Flounce;) came In for street skirls, ruches, gimps, bands of vel vet and what not; and for evening Jufcs, which were billows of tulle, knots of flow ers and wreaths of little rosebuds." These ornaments, put on often In the oM ways, nre now decking the drestder summer skirts, which. In many cases, beshics In creasing In width, arc shortening to tlio lengths of hoopsklrt days. fn this ndmlrable Instance, therefore, modern woman can only praise the former cag and fdng pneans to Its Influences. It therewith once more hack to tV sNtios. wften poiillns and taffetas were the "mad tusa" and were trimmed as now. with nar row velvet ribbons, round silk braids and gilt buttons. With many skirts a decided leaning toward the old tunic effects Is als sen. A gown of embroidered linen canvas In natu ral shade lias a double skirt which sug gests the tare basque tail of remote d'lys. No looping as yet appear cn any of these, draped skirts, but more than one deUcite veiling takes to the stiff rosettes and prim bows that once held limpings in place. A fad for the bows is to put them In ladders down the front of a bodice, or have them outline In the same way the apron of the skirt; and In the years long passed away, these pretty trifles ceit ilnly hallowed now were disposed In the sime manner. Along with the suggestive things of ls.ifl nnd IXitO there- are thinss so new as to have about them the very perfume of the. promised popularity daring the coming sea son. Fhlonnhle milliners are introduiHng a chic touch of blue, pink or pale heliotrope on white hats1. The fern leaf design I prominent In fine laces and also a garland pattern on the l'ompadour order. I'orgee nnd natural linen shirtwaists are much in demand. They are worn with tan or golden brown suits. Hatpins of exidixed silver, cut let, steel and also of enamel are much larger than they were last iwHaon. Jleels are running high this year. Tho various heights have their names, but It is a clever woman who knows the height of her own shoe. Cut steel belt buckles and ba'-k pieces, ornamented wilh peacock eyes and fcath ci :i, are expected to prove very populir as the season advances. Automobile pins are very large. They re s ".nhle safely pins, are several Inches tn loctfih and a smi-11 ornament appears in the tipper band of the pin. A Juliette cap composed entirely of pearls lis a charming hair decoration for a young girl, and lta effectiveness is iiicrcatcd by THE RBINCAHNA-TION OK TUB FLOUNCE AND TH B ZOITAVK JACKET. kept petticoats out of the mud, ami wbvn It collapsed ull the world of Fair became, as the old comic writer put It, only "Dor othy llraggletallH." From this bondage of trailing skirts", It would look as if vain woman were in a great measure to be relieved. Many Im ported models for street use escape the ground, und the ever-growing fullness is so brilliantly manipulated that a certain llirncB is yet retained. Smart little street gowns of eolieune brllliantine und poplin, In very thin weave. fIiow skirts whose exliena' fullness is largely uchlevtd by pleats set In at the hips. This isirtlon Ills the tlgure without a Haw, und utaive the high girdle fur aJl girdles are high nowadays will fall a pleated etmi win' wide sleeves come short of the wrist. 1'iuier these dainty little Jac kets are worn sott white shirts la cot ton, silk or pongee, with sleeves largo enough to puff sbove the wrist band. The hats for Mich toilet lea are equally simple, and the tlatly trimmed sailor, lilted at the back and there bunched with trim ming. Is much seen. A iMiint not to be forgotten Is that colored hats will agiiu be more worn than nlaek tines. Headgear in shaded blues, gree-ns or reds Hbounds, and any of these wvlors may combine with the shades of brown, which continue to be favored. Ho much is this color still approved tht out of a dosen French dresses eight may be brown, ami quite six of the eight in some sliHery, shining texture, such as mohair, cell. one or poplin. The Muff that falls graciously slid shines e irw to be the thing for the solider summer materials. And 1904 mint. Among these are some charmers in neck chains, which are daily growing more elaborate and . expensle. White French metal, and dark metal with Japa nese finish, art? the latest materials for these, and Irregular pearls, brilliants and sapphires may be strung on the same thread. Kverjr alternate stone on another chain may be different, and some tire so big ns to seem more heart-breakingly desirable- than all others. Hut wise maids prefer the chain with small stones, and few ones at that, for when strung upon white metal these have a real look. A swagger chain is made of gun-metal, with round crystal bulls inclosing pea cock eyes. This Is the gem of the season's collection. If It does cost $9. and It would set off most smartly a black cloth drea. Hut with this chain once more the long ago must be touched! upon, for far hark the rich, If sinister, peacock's eye marked many bits of Jewelry. Relt buckles showed them, rings, brooclie and bracelets, straw and feather quills for hats. And tod;iy, with the exception of the bracelet, similar details display the peacock's eye. The superstitious attach bud luck to this em Mem. No matter: it Is lovely and that Is nbont nfl the feminine heirt that is steeped In the Joyous side of drees at any time demands. MARY HKAN. Frills of Panhlna. For summer the white lingerie waUt will he the lender. For evening wear gokl nnd Fllver llpers are in evHlewe. 1'ear I buttons decorated with gold rnakt an exceedingly effective trimming. Jewelry fashioned from genuine! coins la the addition of an algTette, which gives height and style. Lea tiler belts which are shaped In tlio back, pointed slightly top nnd bottom, fasten in front with two narrow cross straps with small gilt harness buckles. The revival of Jet has led to the Introduc tion of some quaint and occasionally gro tesque designs in brooches and buckles. Flatted leather handbags with frames have a pretty effect when open, being lined with fancy silks in colors. The Utile pursca which go with them are similarly lined. Ileal bronze, carved or hammered into a variety of besutiful shapes, la employed for parasol handles. Calved jade in also used for parasol and umbrella handles of the newest designs. A SKI OP BEAUTY IS A JOY FOBEVEB. U. T. rr.MX ftOlTRAlTJD'g OKIKNTAb CKKAM, UK MAGICAL. KKAUTIFlKK o ItniTeTan, Pimiiea,Freek1ts dlsmm, and awry I'leoinh la iMauty, aiul leflts detection. It lias Btooa tha tni il bfi nm. aiul Is o 1 1 a r in less ws uisle it to b stirs il t Wx rly mads Arct t lioroujitrr ffit of ilm liar nam. Ir. L. A Snvra Rairl to a huly of ilia bau4 ion (a uiirt; i 'A yon ladies will lew lliem, I ra commend ' &"" Cream as Uia leaat bnrmful af all lta Uln pniparattoiu.' For aale by all Imiggwu and rucy OooJa !.'' til tha . s., "nrtm. .tad Knnsm. HBO. T. HOfKINS, Ptop'r. 31 Brut Jam St, H. l TWENTIETH CENTURY FARMER Oat Uallar a. tear. r v