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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 25, 1903)
What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion -i .KW YORK, Oct. 2.T-Dame Fasl I'amn Fashion I bus surely been delving In her I l lately, fur Its Influence undoubtedly felt in the new rt'Ta'TW lim-ry. Anything from an rag uence la mil- .teel button to a wisr of wide seems to go upon the headgear of the hour, and go deliriously at that. Womankind is reverting to the time when any pretty trifle in a vumiui'i workbox wan thoight suitable ornament for her b' uddnss; and with the wild blur of color, tin- gimps and tassels and ravelled silks, tho wreaths of tiny birds and rowa like penwipers, a quality almost lost of lata years has been regained. Femininity in the name of this precious quallty-and ita sec ond title In foolishness; two elements aa ne.esHury In a pretty woman's get-up as ozone In the air that she breathes. lieginnlng with ostrich feathers alone, they are all wondrouxly giddy and fetch ing. Shading from the deep t to the palest tints, their purp'.eB, pinks, blues or greens ornament big hats in velvet or beaver, la the darkest tint of the plume. Scarfs of I.c-uislno silk, ravell.-d at the edges and rlt buckle, are additional trimming for aia-h headgear. The brims are wired Into odd curves and the facing, which are shirred over cords In many complicated ways, are put upon the felt hats quite two lt he from the edge. This leaves a supple and becoming border all around, which softness Is accentuated by the fall of the new plume. The new plume Is a thing of beauty and .toy forever. CaPed snake, feathers wherefore nobody knows, for the ostrich Is responsible for their foundation-these flurry frlngy ornaments full like the foliage (t the willow tree. However short the f.Hther tho soft swaying fringe gives It a ook of opulence, while the long ones so alone Pt'"m ,h blr,hr,ht royalty Kupcrb purples and faint violets were displayed by s.,eh a plume put straight .,n,,s,he top of a tint purlH veHet hat J he MufTy end fell far below the rim at tho back, and around the crown were dis posed some rich medallions Russian lace The lace of all the new millinery U of tho heavier description and tho most effective webs have a rude handmade look buch sorts In mellow ocrus are put over dead white chiffon and combined with moUeklii or gunmetal gray VPlvet for boln trim hats and turbans lleadgtur of the last description 8 ,0 b(. nill( ,, numbers o ir,,alm Hro Kppn an 'l Wh'Ch "n'Ul,eS IVr"1 "". and many in wired chenille. Tho linen of the .rr,. .. definitely from the sixties, when such head coverings were shaped In imitation of gun boats. Ounboats they were then eaUed. and nee "boat-shaped turbans' is u, new title the theft can bo readily placed. When posed upon lho hpod ,ho ponted " of the boat turban jut. far over the fore bead ; the rounded .tern leaves much of the head exposed, and the whole effect of structure Is one of audacious anjart- The boat-shaped sailor Is another mo tflstes fancy. though i Ul, cniie tho cruft s a double endor and placed sldewlse on the head. Measured this way Its dlmon- ona are startling, but sized up the 'her the bout .alio. I. only becomingly big und its rounded triangle permits of much co quettish treatment. A boat turban of while felt was wreathed with tiny white birds, whose flat bodies were plastered at the upper edge of the crown as if glued there. These feathered dwarfs are dubbed Chinese birds, and cer tainly their parrot-like bills and vividly yellow feet recall the grotesqucrles of the Orient. With them plain taffeta, in puffed brim edges and bias crown scarfs, Is much used; and upon wired lace or fancy braid hut. plnkod taffeta Is enormously em ployed. Thl. ia fashioned In wide and nar row ruches, doubled, trebled and quad rupled, the fuller ruches widening the try ing high crown, and smaller onea raising flat brim, to more desirable effects. The tendency of all headgear Is toward elevation af line. Crowns are lifting higher and higher, brims roll up from the face and simple dish shapes are raised from the head with wider bands than were ever used before. But with it all the popu lar taste la more toward high-crowned undulated ones. So a perfectly flat shape, say of ahlrrcd velvet, will take to a .lop ing railing around the edge of the brim of. ravelled .ilk or braided gimp, which gives It enourh lift to pass muster. Another flat, straight brim will be covered with great loose rolls of tulle, or it may be banked by rugged chrysanthemums whose gaudy hues are softened by the wlspa of veiling mentioned. The new Mower In the garden of millinery Is artificial In the extreme. If a rose, it la preferably a bumpy, waxen thing of white satin ribbon, or a ghostly Mat shadow of tinted calico with petals patently pointed with the scissors, and centers that bear no resemblance to nature. Neverthe less, such openly fabricated blossoms have a charming novelty and woman turns to them from more perfect flowers with a Cellght In their insolence. One big hat of pale gray felt with, gun- metal velvet a very stylish color waa dotted at the top of the brim with these penwiper rosea in the hard gray of the velvet trimming. A purple velvet hat cm ployed paJe blue in its color scheme, a tint us faint as any and tinging on groen. Other modish combinations are orange and white, brown and black and green and blue. Birds In all sizes are everywhere seen, and a number of stylish walking hats are made entirely of breast feathers in speckled browns and blacks and iridescent greens and blues. Any piebald effect that is not too extravagant Is much adrnlrod. Indeed, several of the French hats take even to extravagance In this direction and are not injured thereby; one panne velvet brim scarf and puffed crown suggesting, with their mottled browns and blacks and whites, tho beauty of leopard skin. So much for the definitely new in mil linery, unless It may be added thnt a num ber of tho boat turbans are fashioned com pletely of narrow braided velvets, which are a marked feature of the moment. Wida raised crowns are also often made ef these Up-to-Date Bridal Bouquet a OWKVER heedless of fashions a maid may have been In her callow days, she is alwaye seized with a desire to be fashionable at her wedding, and It Is the desruiir of the girl about to marry a $50-a-week man that he cannot provide her with the only bouquet that smart people approve as en tirely fashionable white orchids and llliea-of-the-valley. While a wealthy bridegroom pays aa high aa $30 to $400 for bucIi a bou quet, the average well-to-do man contents himself with paying $150, the general price of the bride's bouquet of today. Of course liliea-of-the-valley and bride rosea and white chrysanthemuma may all be carried with good taste, but they are no longer fashionable. They are Blmnly sanctioned by aoclety. The bridegroom himself. If he wants to be In style, wears a large gardenia In hia buttonhole, and presents the bridesmaids with flowers suited to their frock.. Bridea malda' bouquet, are now chosen entirely with regard to the material of the frock to be worn and Its coloring, but favorite flowers for autumn bridesmaids are white roaea. pink roses, American Beauties and violets. Of course, ahower bouqueta are the rage and add effectively to the appearance f a frock. Orange blossoms crown the heat of the autumn bride, the mists of dotted duchesae net, with wide borders of fine duchease lace, fall In Rimy folds from the white blossoms In her hair. So important a part does fashion play In all the eventa of modern life that even the decoration for a dinner to be given to a bride Is set forth In unwritten laws that, are aa rigidly obeyed aa any set forth in aUtute books. The table for a bride's luncheon or dinner is spread with a cloth of fashionable linen or lace or both, and lighted by electroliers In graceful candela bra, a five-branched silver candelabra. In empire style, standing in the center of the table, with dainty white Bilk floral shades, fringed with clear beads, above the imita tion white wax candles. Pale green or the very palest of pink shades may be used with a sprig of orange blossoms. At each comer of the table a .Ingle candlestick electrolier, similarly .haded, stands and matches the center one In design and height, although It would be much prettier to have corner candelabra smaller, aa to PHA8ES OF MILLINERY APPROVED braided velvet ribbons, which are some times less than an inch wide; and in stiff loops of varying widths they form the rear falls of much headgear for practical service. Gun-metal gray is a favorite color for them, but this is always relieved with white or gray so pale as to seem white. Since shaded effects are everywhere em ployed, more than one braided velvet tur ban has in spots tho prevalent faded look. Roady-to-wear hats, such as require lho merest addition to be complete, are mora tho usual thing in make and material. A number of jaunty puffy shapes, rolling away from the face, and half turbnn brim hats, are made of benver felt plateaux put over buckram frames. A pair of short feathers or ribbon bows are sometimes seen on these, and If the felt is mlnglod with velvet the biff quills of the plumes may be inserted in metal or jeweled sheaths. Black velvet and bluck malines compose hats of a picturesque nature for afternoon visiting and driving. Big clumps of the fringing feathers, or a single magnificent plume, will deck such models, and since height, and a few people have them so. The flowers are arranged In flat effects, with loose blossoms strewn over the table, and sometimes the corsage bouquets of the women are banked against a low platter, aa a table decoration, und distributed after the meal. Fashionable table adornments that nre dreams of floral beauty consist of white jasmines and gardenias, with aspara gus and trlfoliata ferns, by way of foliage; or cattelaye orchids are mingled with the same dellcute ferns, and look like flights of white butterflies floating among the lace and silver and crystal of the table service. Another modish way of decorating a bride's table is with lilles-of-the-valley and violets, with fulry-llke fronds of asparagus fern and the trifollata maidenhair. Glim mering silver favors for the guests often add attractiveness to the decorations, and as frequently the favors consist of white SBf Cut Glass M0p(i The World's Best ' iJLj, ? wi-da for quality at tmt jptjj eomptitWe xHibit X o ' LLCk f,r &Aev tnavid " , KXCMSIVE ACK5IT FOR OMAHA , , V 1 fg I SAMUEL BURNS, 1318 FARNAM 'J BY SMART MAIDS. their wide brims are partly transparent the elaborate effoct of them Is marked. For ordinary service the woman of mod erate means will find the ready-to-wear headpieces much cheaper than the modiste's wares, and more suited to prac tical needs besides. Strikingly effective rolling shapes of chenille braid and taffeta combined can be had for $5; such models needing perhaps only a velvet or silk ro sette or a fall of some sort at the back. Taffeta sailors, finished to the last notch, sell for $4.50, and smart felt turbans with braid trimmings go even cheaper. The fancy neckpieces and muffs turned out by milliners and often sold with match ing hats are of indescribable beauty this year. Some rare fur, lace, chiffon and chenille fringe may all appear In a single sot, whoso object is to glorify a reception or driving costume of equal splendor. Moleskin, Irish lace and kilted white chif fon composed one such outlay. Topped by a moleskin turban, the pelerine and muff wore to be worn with a gown in pale gray cloth, simply strapped with the sam. MARY DEAN. Costly Affair lace lace and pearl fans, or white gauze and affairs, dainty enough for Tltanla to use. Popular dinner and lunch cards for bridal dinners and luncheons consist of white bells, wreathed In pink roses or orange blossoms, and tied with bows of white satin baby ribbon for the women, and white slippers, tied with a bow of white ribbon, and having a sprig of orange blossoms over the instep, for the men. Canopies are going out of style for wed ding decorations. In their stead curtains of smllax sway like the doors to sempiternal spring, and banks and groups of decorative plants are arranged with a view to artistio effects, while sometimes a bridal flower Is scattered throush the scheme of decora tions, such as white roses, jasmine and for a late autumn wedding white chrysanthemums.