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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 13, 1903)
A Mannish Cut Dominates. Fall Shirtwaists Iwl HAT simple little waist 17!" the careful shopper exclaimed In credulously. "Why, It lit wade of medium grade flannel and quite untrtmnied." "It la all In the cut," the clerk explained patiently. This Is. Indeed, the only virtue of many 9t the fall shirtwaists, especially as re gards lightweight flannels. It is on their cut that they roust rely for smartness.. Yet there Is something Irresistible about tbeir simplicity. Take a shirtwaist of blue and white striped wash flannel, the product of a noted shirt maker, as example. The Blight fullness in the front is gathered smoothly into the neckband. The box pleat down the front Is us simple as a neatly stitched inch and a half box plent can be. So are the pearl buttons with which it is garnished: They are only a half inch in diameter, and are uncarved. The Bleeves have little fullness at the armhole and the puff between the elbow Is gathered Into a three-inch wide cuff, fastened with two pearl buttons. The man shlrtmaker can rejoice In his creation. He can aMo rejoice in the trend of the fall fashions, for much of the shirt waist trade will be diverted into his hands, lie alone seems to te able to cope suc cessfully with the Knglish linen suitings. Which promise to be worn all winter. A3 a fashionable woman declared to her modiste the other day: "I am so glad that we can wear wash shirtwaists all winter, for these English vestlngs are adorable. But then, you knosr, I adore everything Knglish." The most loyal American cannot but ac knowledge that many good things have come out of England, and the heavy linen Testings now bo popular are no exception. They come In white, either basket weave r lined, and In white lined with black or IEAI.. rings are the most popular s Just now with girls that is, their popularity is second only to that I 1 of engagement rings. Nothing "9 will ever disturb the pre-eminent place which the engagement ring has in the affections of a. girl, but seal rings at any rate have reached the dignity of a fad. These rings come in all sorts of drolgns. They were first worn by college girls, who bad their college and class Insignia cut in the seal, bat the designs are now multifar ious. Some girls have their monogram or coat-of arms on the seal and employ it in sealing letters. Others have adopted the plan of using the flower belonging to their birth month an idea borrowed, no doubt, from the custom of wearing birth-month stones. Then there is the college girl who started the fad and who sticks to either her college, class or soroslty emblem for a de sign. Three girls comparing rings the other day began to discuss the practical use of such a ring. "I have solved the perplexing problem," said the girl who keeps house for her bachelor brother. "You know, I do all the marketing for tho house myself. I am of age, but I sup pose that I look inexperienced In the eyes of the butcher, the market man nnd the grocer. At any rate, I know that until re- Were Three in a Bed IHREE pert and pretty Ohio glr'.s are entitled to the credit, if credit it be, of having got the advantage of a sleeping car conductor. Three girls were in Pittsburg as dele gates to the convention of the Irish .Cath olic Denevolent union. At the close of the convention they started homeward some where in the direction of Toledo. All of them wanted a berth on the train, but much to their disappointment upon their ar rival at the union station they were told that only one unoccupied berth remained. "Could we take it?" asked the one In brown, looking singularly Innocent as she circled her arm toward her companions to explain what she meant by "we." The sleeping car company has a frigid demeanor. But the unusual request of the girl dele gates and their pleasing smiles caused the austere official behind the bars to actually smile. Hut of course he could not do It. The girls, much dejected, trooped off. Soon they were back. "Could this one," said the first speaker, "remain up In the dressing room?" This most decidedly is against the company's rules, as the dress ing rooms are for the use of all passengers, and besides the lights go out at 10. "We'll take it anyway," as she deposited a $5 note. "For one, two or three," the ticket seller asked. "Three, of course," replied the trio Jokingly. Getting their check and change, the pas etigera boarded the train, all three in one seat. Thia seat they occupied until the tickets were collected, when one of the girls retired to tho day couch to keep vigil until 1 o'clock while the other two Blept. At that hour she stole Into tho sleeper, roused the slumbering pair nnd took the place then vacated by the girl who bad plaamed how to get ahead of the Pull man company, even though it means Bit ting up half the night. colors or flecked with similar shades. Tho general effect of most of the patterns Is white, thus following up the summer pen chant for that color. The summer girl who was sensible enough to eschew filmy shirtwaists in favor of these, their more durable sisters, will find that she can wear them well through the winter. And the new shirtwaist styles do not differ radically enough from their sum mer prototypes to make the former appear hopelessly antiquated. Indeed, one mother, who was searching through the shops for early fall shirtwaists to fit out her college girl, was surprised at the udviee the clerk ten dot ed. "Hotter trtke r.ne or two of these heavy linen waists instead of choosing nothing but llannel," he said persuasively. "They are going to be the correct thing this win ter, and are quite aa warm as the unlined flannels. Indeed, some of my patrons ure planning to wear a warm slip under them when necessary and thus make them ser viceable for all degrees of temperature." A smart shirtwaist Is of English vesting in a tiny gun metal check striping a white background. The front Is laid In two-Inch wide stitched box pleats set at Intervals of an inch or so apart. Clumsiness Is pre vented and an irregular pointed yoke la simulated by drawing the box pleat close together over the chest and covering the Beams with narrow stitched bands. The bands are of uneven length, and each pointed end is finished by a pearl button. The sleeves fit the arm comfortably, until they puff out just above the wrist. They have plain three-inch cuffs fastened by the same ptarl button. The stock is of the vesting material and is made after a popu lar model. The collar and the tabs which extend down the front are nil In one piece. It takes careful cutting to make this va Beauty and Utility cently I was dreadfully taken in almost every time I bought anything. I paid more than the market price for groceries and everything else and did not always get the best quality at that. "One of my married friends told me that the trades people always looked at a wo nan customer's hand to see whether she wore a weddlrg ring. If they saw that she did, they presumed that she knew something about meats and vegetables and that sort of thing, and were afraid to try to de ceive her. I thought over what she said and the next time I went to market I turned my ring around so that the seal was on the Inside, and the ring looked like the plain gold band which denotes matri mony. "It worked like n charm. AVhen I was ordering anything I kept my left hand In Buch a position that the ring was promi nently displayed before the eyes of the Bhopkeeper. Since I adopted the plan we have had the best of everything In the market and at prices averaging about 10 cents less on the dollar than I had been paying for inferior merchandise." "You are not the only one who has found that it is sometimes better to be mistaken for a married woman," said the girl who works In an office In the business district. "It often happens that my work keeps me at' the office until 7 or 8 o'clock in the evening, especially during the busy season. For and About Women Minnie Elnlse Kahoe. a stenographer of Pensacola, has secured the enactment of a law providing for the appointment of official stenographers in thu circut courts of Florida. Jessie Gibson of Indianapolis, n recent graduates of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, has entered into partnership with her father, and Is tho lirst woman architect In Indianapolis. The only ornament a recent visitor to the Venetian home of Pope Pius X found was a picture of the gray-haired peasant woman In a fustian dress, the mother of the new head of the Roman Catholic church. One of the most picturesque characters In Europe is the Countess Schlmmelmann of Denmark. She devotes her life to mis sionary work and for eight years has traveled exclusively in heathen lands. At Iockport, N. V., the other night Miss Nellie Eckhardt. a young woman from Buffalo, went to the rescue of her escort, Williim Neuse, when he was attacked hv a gang of sutlians. She used her lists und umbrella and a long hat pin wilh su'-h eff:t that the assailants beat a speedy retreat. Miss Frances Gerard has written the strange and checkered history of King Milan of Servla. In a hook which Messrs. Hutchinson are to publish. She had nearly Mulshed it before the tragedy which wiped out Milan's dynasty took place at Belgrade. Miss (Jerard is already known for a book dealing with King laulnig II of Bavaria, whose life was also a curious story. It is said that l.ily. duchess of Marlbor ough, who was Mrs. Louis Hummersley and was once known in London as one of tho most lavish of American hostesses, is rarely seen anywhere nowadays. She is in wretched health and since the death of her husband, l ord William Beresford, has been living quietly at ieepdene and Brighton with her little son. Dispatches from Hanekow announce that the Chinese women have at last declared against the cruel custom which deforms their feet. A meeting of marrieil women, widows und young girls was held In the hall of a family named Chang. The ques tion was discussed by the older women In all Its bearings, while the younger recited verses from ihe Chinese poets inveighing ogalnst the evil. A resolution of protest against the iniquity was p&aued amid great euUiuaiasm. riety of stock conform readily to the curves of the throat. Many of the new shirtwaists have the cuff arranged so that links can be used In stead of buttons. If milady has had sev eral pairs of odd ruff links laid away dur ing their hour of unpopularity she ran now bring them out once more. Most of the new cuff links take the form of buttons of sil ver, gold or gun metal, set with some fa vorite stone. Blue matrix Is popular and looks well with a white waist. One of the hops which maka a specialty of shirt waists and their accessories Is showing shirtwaist sets of tinted bone, cut to Imi tate a chrysanthemum. One of tho shirtwaists of heavy linen has two of these buttons In a golden yel low fastening each cuff. They accord well with the embroidered tabs which ornament the front of the waist. The box pleat of this waist Is wide-It mus. be at least three and a half or four Inches In width. Tteyond this are wide clus ters of fine tucks. The groups on either side the pleat expend down to the waist line, but the others stop short at the bust. A tab of the material of the same width Is laid over a third of the way down the box pleat. Its pointed end Is embroidered In a yellow trncery and a slowing yellow chrys anthemum. Above It Is closely covered with French knots worked In the same shade of yellow silk. A shorter tab Is stitched down at each aide between the groups of fine tucks. It Is similarly em broidered. The cuffs nre plain, although the turnover on the stock collar is alro em broidered In yellow silk. Hand embroidery will be much worn on shirtwaists, whether the foundation be of wnsh material, flannel or even silk. So the girl who has spent some of her summer hours over an embroidery frame can profit greatly by the result of her labors. If her of the New Ring Fad This is not altogether unpleasant, for com ing home at that hour I escape the crowds which make street car riding at the rush hour a thing to be dreaded, but more than once I have been selected by some 'masher" as the object of his decidedly unwelcome attentions. "By preserving a stony rigidity of de meanor and utterly Ignoring the existence of the 'masher,' I am usually safe from an noyance, but even this plan does not always work. So now I keep a book at the office and when I am detained I read it on the car, turning my ling around until It looks like a wedding ring and holding the book In my left hand. A woman who Is absorbed In a book Is a dlscournglng proposition to the most persistent 'masher,' and one glance at what he supposes to bo a wedding ring on the hand which holds tho book will complete his discomfiture. I know several other girls who have adopted the same plan and It works beauti fully." "I did not have so good a reason for re sorting to a subterfuge as either of you two, but my venture worked Just as suc cessfully as yours," chimed In the girl who is studying music. "I whs with two other girls on a shopping tour which ended in one of the big depart ment stores. Of course, each of us bought any number of things that we had no Idea of buying when we started out, and Frills of Fashion A charming fall waist made In one of the fine cot toy vestings is in a beuuliful shade of lavendr In a basket weave. Black stocks are to be found for the woman who dresses In mourning, these made ,t black crepe and finished with dull black buttons. An oddly shaped baroque pearl Is In the foriA of a deer's head, und, with tiny rubies set in for eyes and mounted on a slick pin, it Is very nutural. For decorating rooms where Indian effects pre desired there are the ceremonial masks of the Iroquois used in their harvest dam es. These ure the genuine article and most ef fective. Fine pottery steins to celebrate college or other events come In different colors. They may be had In the color of the college to which they are going, and there Is a silver plate set on to one side for tho inscription. Tailor shirt waists of the heavy cottons are made without gathers except as they are gathered in at tho waist. The entire front Is plain and smooth, but with either one or two pockets, a single one on tho left Bide or one on either side. These are iho pockets set in, but finished with a little facing on the outside. An attractive pair of cuff links Is made In a variation of lilts. Two of these are for each cuff, tiny bars of gold, perpendicular, broadest at the two ends, set their length with diamonds with a round pour I In the center of each bar. On the outside of the center of eac h Is a nmall ring. They are simple and very pretty. Thoso whip bracelets, two slender lines of gold encircling tho wrist, with the curl of the lash at one end and the stock of the whip at the other, have a use as well as being pretty things. The gold is pliah!o and the bracelet works like a key ring. One end can be raised, the chain of a purse or small ttag can be slipped on to the bracelet and the woman Is relieved of ono of her small belongings. There were never more beautifol things than are shown In the flannels this year. Quite the prettiest of these are the French twilled flannels, with the design in delicate colors. A particularly dainty design comes with a border, the ground of a pale pink or blue, perhaps, with small patterns of flow ers scattered over it, while the border on the edge has a white foundation with a larger design of flowers. Different delicate colors are shown, in these flannel. fancy led her In the pursuit of Ttulgnrlaa patterns and colorings. It will bo en regis on waists of all aorta and conditions. Some times It will deck the box pleat down the front, but Us use on stock and cuffs will give a dash of odor which will satisfy the more conservative. Hlack embroidery on white la extremely fashionable, providing the contrasts are not too startling. As one well dressed woman said: "Hlack embroidery on white should take the form of a delicate tracery, otherwise It becomes bourgeois. A dainty white waist follows nfter this dictum. It Is of Hue French flannel and Is perhaps too elaborate to come under the head of a shirtwaist. It Is cut nfter a shirtwaist model, however, except that It hna a deep cuff. The sleeves are laid In wide pleats as far down as the elbow. Each pleat Is ornamented with a slender line of black and white silk embroidery, and the end of each la marked by an Inch-wide me dallion, also embroidered In black and white silk. The same embroidery trima the box pleat down the front of the waist, and a line of medallions runs across, just tie low the bust line. Hut the waist does not depend on em broidery alone for Its ornamentation. The high stock collar Is a combination of em broidered while flannel and white lace. I.aco Is also appliipied to form a shallow round ing yoke, which extends slightly over the sleeves, and the cuffs are covered with it. On another white waist the hlack em broidery Is set between the narrow atttchct box pleats, which run from throat to waist line. The name plan Is followed on the sleeves, though here the, pleats of neces Blty only run a short distance below the elbow. Itelow that point the sleeve wid ens out Into a puff which drops over the shirt waist cuff. HARRIET IUWI.ET. when lunch time came we counted up our cash and found that we had hardly more than enough money among us to pay our car fare back home. "You can readily imagine that when we found that we did not have enough money for luncheon we immediately became des perately hungry. In the basement of the store they were having a 'demonstration' of a new flour nnd were rooking the most delicious looking biscuits. These were served with tea and honey to the women who were watching the demonstration, and we immediately concluded that we would get our lunch there without it cost ing us anything at all. "But we saw a sign which stated that only married women would be served with tho biscuits, honey and tea which wo so desired. One of the other girls suggested the same plan that you two adopted, und, turning our rings around, we inarched up boldly to the counter and were served with out question. l'crhnpii It was hardly honest, but we were nil three hungry nnd tho proprietor of the store had got all our money for other things, so we did not let that question Interfere with our enjoy ment of the biscuits and honey." A skin of beauty it a joy forever. DR.T. FFXIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM. OK MAGICAL BtAUTlFIER j. .i 5 5 - -i(rfiV Rcmaves Tn, Flu pita. FrtiklfB. Math Pitrhaa, HacB and sua Dla- laaa, ana Barf .1 1 blaralah ah hMulr. -v BUI UBSUM WOTIOU. y It ait Hood tha tast oc nrtj-nva raara, and la aa haraUaaa wa Uata It ta ba aura It la property aiaaa. Acraoi aa eountarfalt ot alml- lar nun a. Dr. I, A. Barra aald U a lady sf tha fcaut- ' loo (a gallant): "Aa raa ladlaa will uas thcak I raconunaud "UOORAUD'S CRKAM" aa rka hwat harmful of all tha skin preparations." Car aala bf a.', druvKlata and !n7 (uoda dtalara la tba Vnltaa lata and Kuropa. FIORD. T. HOPKIl, Prop'r. IT Orast Jonf it-. N. T. mmanoxaie P?y",a9l,rt, PBrSoft Whlu Skla iCrM'rVw "d Beautiful ComaltxUa. enraa Eczema and Tattar. Ab aulatelj aad FarEtanaDtly raiuuva blmekhaada, twsm i klra, Hn-.plMi, Uadnaaa, 8an anota and Tan. Uaad with) g ltarma-UyaJa Boap lx I Zacl akla la luaurad. Kir fetid tw DrufloMa. fa? .X A cuybfi ordr4 dlf tct. Dentua-Koymln, (1 per bartil. ripma paltta aUenaa-BoyaUa) Maaa, S3 oeadk, aiy snails fttotai la oaw pavetkaare, tl.M, axpraa fmlaU J'ar train ad Ttsttmcnialt tent on rtqtuU. r One Dottle FREE to Agents. XMJB I1laUIAUO'S'AI.H CO.. fliclaiaall. BIG PAYING BUSINESS Writ far unM sfkiiadrraa af 4llskt4 aaal4aMra ral a va cki. b lnuliai a homm cBQioa sold. Hw, atofcla aadnatat "cfjl rUtlna ou Wauihaa, Jawalrr, TaMawara. II buijoJaa, all nwtaJ soad. linj ttutm. He a. II avrloua, quicxia laoraad. Kooramoiaa 4auatmnaV I Mya ar fcuaaba Outttta aJJ aliaa. EvarytklKa " tunuk4 1liiitartin, Wi taai rmh KJCR. Writ UxUf, 14. 4aL4Y at tUJMlUUfaV'Cl, ffk iiv.is r i 9 on u wy crt ffiffir