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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 2, 1903)
What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion .KW YORK. Julv 29. With the N thermometer well up lu tho I nineties, a sweltering world thinks continually of bithtng costumes and even ready made bathing clothes this summer are coquetti.'h, durable, with silken sheens, rich contrast of color and cut dlstractingly becoming. Once upon a time even the sea to btte fashioned to order held a bitter Btlng lor the unshapely. None but the most flawless beauty could stand Its vilifying tejt. To day things are otherwise. Wllh bathing corsets to hold her figure within bound t, even the too stout woman may take I er beaK-hful dip without teeming a spectacle. Gloria is a material advised for substan tial mermaids and If it Is dark blue, with no contrasts of color, it will be mo.e slimming in tendency. A certain elegance, which may be described as Quakerish, is achieved by the bathing costumes In gray gloria. Not a scrap of trimming r..levc.4 this quiet color, which is in pale s.lvc.ry or blue tones. Tailor stitching is used on the hems with neat effect and sometimes a Blender waist is girdled with a soft sash of the same material. Stockings in the same color as the buit, uiul a siuare of the gloria for the head handkerchief, give added demure sameness to the get-up. Many vivid contrasts in color uie seen, a number of the plain material suits running to stitched bands In spotted, ElripeJ or checked stuffs. These appear upon the skirts in hip yokes, border bands, etc., and are used upon the bodice in many oJd ways. Black taffeta silk Is another m i terial which, with stitched biases, ruffles and tucks, can be made to look splendid for bathing purposes. Nothing that can stand the test of brine Is considered too fine for the embrace of Neptune. Silk stockings may go un challenged to the surf, and if a gay nbbo.i la sometimes wound below the knee of one the daintiness of the effect pardons all else. For small fry especially tho youngest children stockinet sulls in one piece offer easy movement. In these funny, baggy "panties" for shirt and trousers are all Jn one the children will often go nround for half a day. Feet and legs are bare, and a tarpaulin sailor hat shields the eyes from the sun. Borne new wools in the market present admirable qualities for seashore wear. "Woven loosely and with a bnntlng wirlness, these thin and pleasant textures are Im pervious to salt water influences. No special name stems to have been given them, but a demand for bunting will generally produce them. Everything which pertains to traveling or out-of-town pleasuring is now the chief pedal ty of both the shops and private makers. Boating suits In pretty spotted cottons with solid bands are among the finds in the shops, for they sell for only $3 and have the smartness of n shfrt-wnist dress. Other light cotton suits without sailor collars and nautical ties sell for even less often for no more than $2.49. With such neat costumes at hand, and their prices admitting of numbers of them, the dog days need not be feared. Summer comfort drjenns largely upon effects refreshing to the eye as well as cool to the body. In the hottest weather dark textures should he avoided and as much white worn ns possible, and If starch Is eliminated from the underwear peace In this direction will be perceptibly increased. Women susceptible to the irritation of dress find pongee an excellent material for midsummer petticoats. The yellow sorts are said to be cooler than the black, and the white to be more repose To 1 still. To step away from these cool dishes of fashion to garments which may be worn at any time several words are to be sal I on the subject of the new rain coats. Never were practical garments deigned Jfth more eye to dash and to gase upon aome of the novelty silk linings which adorn these coats is seriously to doubt their mission But, notwithstanding thit extreme elegance, both the cravenette coats and many of their doublings are rainproof. A dull shade of sage green U the most awagger tint for them, with which c lor brocaded silks In dim golds Is a superb combination. The cravenette coat most approved by fashion displays an exaggerated loosemtsa and a yoke and sleeves cut In one. This, if it ia not directly imported, U made after the prescribed Knglish model, which is de signed to adapt Itself to many uses. At some of the good placej the buyer Is Informed that these coats are frequently purchased for all-around summer service. For automobiling and driving they are aid ts be invaluable and sine long skirts are often worn on such occasion t the trail ing skirt of the coat is not shortened as it must be for walking. The fashionable vision descending from a trap of any sort Invariably gives an impiession of trained and floating draperies. The column t--otloir pavement length is not supposed to enter A venicle and consequently thy short coats which accompany it are like wise tabooed for carriage wear. Other long coats, which hive plainly received their influence from the mod sh cravenettes, run to silky brilliantines, soft glorias and Shantung pongees. M.my of the glorias are likewise said to be rain proof. They are certainly impervious to dust and for that reason they make sp'.e.i dld traveling wraps. A traveling coat of pale brown gloria, is trimmed with velvet In a dueper shade, this forming an odd yoke which runs down in slim bands over the tops of the sleeve. These details In nine coats out of ten nre of a baggy looseness. The drooping puff above the close cuffs Is more observed than flowing effects, these Inst having proved themselves inadvisable for practical wear. As the summer advances a decided con sideration for personal comfort Is noticed In street dress. Ik.dircs In fragile un .tarchcd textures appear in shopping dis tricts, with flounced sleeves rhowlng an honest section of bare arm. The neck Is cut to display several Inches of bate throat, canvas shoes peep below a linen or suck skirt and the untrlmmed parasol Is of cool green Hlk. Fur the rest. If this neat and dipper headgear suits her style, yen may be sure (l plain straw sailor tops the weaver's head, with the. big crown In so-ne cises very low and In others something over three Inches high. A black ribbon band is the most populnr finish for these hats, which are often draped with sewing silk veils In brown, blue or green. These am most comPionly for ornament, but when a reddish-brown veil chiffon In this case Is dropped over the face, the floating cur When Watermelons Are Ripe IniOl'GH canteloupe Is more generally approved for breakfast, a pink. Juicy pyramid or half globe of watermelon on a hot sul try morning often brings even a lagging appetite in Its wake. Watermelon Is seldom served nowidays with the rind on. Instead, it is cut in two transversely sr.d scooped out In half pl.irej. This can be done by lining n large sp.ion with a rotary motion. It 1j then si rved on a bed of cracked Ice or a cool green 1 af. Cut and served In this way. It Is charai ingly Uworallve and can be made to go much further. Another way of chilling melon when It Is to serve us the first course at luncheon Is to scoop out the red flesh, rejecting the seeds. This Is put into a howl and picked into pieces with a fork. The juice of a lemon and a little sugar Is then added, after which the mixture is frozen to a mush-like consistency and served in glasses with the addition of a tearpoonful of sherry to each glass. Southerners object to tho northern meth od of chilling melons, asserting that it makes them indigestible. In Arizona those who have profited by experience throw a wet gunnysack over a pilo of mclonB. The evaporation keeps the fruit at a delightful temperature. Watermelon luncheons are a popular di version that may be commended to those who wish to give a simplo al fresco enter-, talnment. A pile of choice melons are gathered and cooled and Invitations sent out for a gathering of tho neighboring elans. Rugs, hnmmoolis, und camp nnd lounging chairs are placed about in tha shade, piles of plates and forks tire set in Sarah Snook EXT in number to the reclpra for I VT I the banishment of warts are tho I I recipes for the attainment of l'jC3 long life. The philosopher who ' buys an annuity and resolve to have length of day ia bewildered by the multitude and variety of means of reaching that end. Karly to bed, late to bed; plenty of exercise, none at all; no smoking al lowed, smoke all you please; water from the brook, tho drink of Israel's champion, whisky In moderation; stick to a diet, eat what you like; avoid tea and coffee, swig tea and coffee freely; live on cereals, live on vegetables, live on meat or milk; be as regular as clockwork, be as irregular aa OM Pnrr or the crankiest verb; you can find amcng the centenarians examples of almost every system and schedule and want of them. We knew a fine old fellow of 97 who used to preach to his grandchildren the neces sity of "avoiding worry." Kvcry rainy day he would walk on the railroad track. He was deaf aa an adder and his grandchildren used lo do the worrying. Another patri arch of our acquaintance has drunk hard cider out of a tin dipper, before breakfast, for years that outrun memory. Perversity or genius; who knows? Sometimes It seems aa If these secular worthies had some In communicable charm, aa If they had put death to sleep or bound him tight f r a period, as Player Jack did In the folktale. They cannot be expected to publish a secret which would make old age common and de prive them of their distinction. But the grand discovery has been made at last and the years of the whale or the yew are now within reach of the wise and good. Mrs. Sarah Snook of St. Joseph, Mo., was 103 the other day. She walks a ml!n a day. Without spectacles she can see to tain seems dlstractingly becoming. Neither the blue nor green veils are ns heauttf ylng as the reddUh tints, which scent to clear the complexion while brightening the eyes. If there are scattered chenille spots on them they are even more enhancing. IVrfornted braid belts arid lace-lisle gloves lire among the excellent hot weather offerings that the shops are now selling for twopence, so to speak. But If the addi tional beat ran bo endured potent leather belts and suede lisle gloves are presented as more elegant details. The most effective of he belts are in white or black patent leithrr with gilt or stei 1 harm ss buckles, and with a mnrked diminution In wMth at the. front. Gracefully curving the waist line there they give n.ny fairly good Astire i round and youthful lmk. The gloves fit with a kit snugncsn. and besides icing In black and white, delicate tints nvitchlng the new gown tox lures are seen. A heavy whit" stitching wives distinction to the blirk ones, which may be worn with gown In white or color. Some of ll.e French models in summer underwear In the more fragile textures show gov::s. hemiscs and drawers trimmed with handkerchief herders. The handker chief, generally something delicately em broidered and with an ornamental edge, Ij folded on tho cro.ss and cut directly in half. A "V" In the center of these halves Is then cut away nnd the border applied as a flounce fall. With ribbon run headings some convenient place writ re every one can help himself, whtle the master of cere monies, with a long sharp knife, carrea melon after melon Into big sgm -nts for the Jolly crowd. Large baskets are pi iced near to receive the rinds, which pile up past belief to those who have never participated in a function of this rort. In section of the country where the con ventionalities are more rigidly obseived, a watermelon luncheon may he made a mueh more elaborate affair, though scarcely more enjoyable. If served in course the luncheon may begin with tho melon shredded. Iced and served In glasses. Then, as one flavor is apt to become cloying, there may follow a regular course luncheon, holding to the pink coloring, as for Instance: Lobster in Bouchee cases. Cream Sauce. Holla. Broiled Spring Chicken with Tomato Cream Sauce. Watermelon Salad with French Iresalng. Chilled Watermelon. Watermelon Cake. Coffee. A refreshing drink to be sipped during the meal may be compounded of water melon Juice, undiluted except for chipped lee, treated with fruits and served in tall glasses. Into each glass may be dropped slices of orange and banana, a Toksy grape cut and seeded, and a slice of peach or plnenpple. Table decorations and favors may be selected with a view to carrying out tho watermelon scheme. In buying a watermelon weight and sound have to be taken Into account. If a sharp blow with the knuckles elicits a hollow pound and the melon feels heavy when lifted, it Is generally sitfe to buy it Had a Secret read much better than most young folks of this myopic and astigmatic age. She ia as sound aa a bell, and why? What Is her preservative? With what curious meat or cordial does the prolong her days and need no amendments to her constitution? 8a rail Snook eats pie. Bats it early and often for breakfast, luncheon, tea, dinner, supper and between meals. For three gen erations she has thrived on pie. Pie baa been the strength of her yourh. the com panion of her middle life, the staff of her old age. If there are any older pte eaters, it is because they have eaten more plea. So everything brings us bark to the praise of pie, that solid elixir of life, that forti fying manna of the strong, that builder of enduring nerves and brains, pie, the stren uous and the staying. It may have slain its thousand;. Why should weaklings live? The great und good and equal to it, it sus tains, or Is capable of sustaining, for cen turies. But, it may be raid, even faithful pie eaters must go at last upon the irre meable voyage. And whose fault is It? Is it not notorious that mistaken affection In terferes with the diet of the old ami de prives the seasoned stomach of the habitual food? Grandpa wants pie. Give him gruel. He doesn't know what he wants. lie Is bad for him. You shudder at the impious piety of thoso trtbts that tat their old from considerations of lov and affection. Ia It any butter ti tako pie from tbe pie eater? The case of Sarah Snook should bring re morse to many persona who imagine them selves to be highly scientific nnd shame to many persons who affect to despise the sterling and hardy American dish. Pie is the grand secret, and even frivolous souls who hold that better In Manhattan than 100 In St. Joseph, cannot afford to neglect Mrs. Snook's discovery. New York Sun- heading these pretty trimmings, the under garments so trimmed seem to have a spe cial elegance. I'pou the drawers the break In the border often comes at the stile of the knee, where a drooping ribbon bow gives an added coquetry. The fall oif the nightgown neck and that of the chemise is li-rlhirly treated, for these tlltle hamlkcr ;" garments generally come In sets. I her rtM)tiellih and charming features of to shops are the klmona saniurs in flowered tulistes anil dimities. These are made bewttibmly short, with only under arm scums like . purer doll's dree. The bottom of the wide sleeves and the round neck are buttonholed In color, thla tint and the rlL-lam tie strings matching the ftewr-rs of the texture used. uch pretty trifles are sold for hot weither neg'lgres at the trifling sum of IN cer.ts. They are among the especially taste ful farcies of the season and should not be pasa-d by. MAUY 1KAN. For and About Women Musical compositions by women were played exciusiverv in the Coliseum gardens. New York, last week. A cup won in an International ynrht race, plenty of te:i nnd the title of ' "I jdy" is what Fir Thomas Upton says he will be stow upon some American girl if he wins the vacht rare. Another Kngtlahman look ing for an heiress "It is the women of the country who make tramps by giving meals to them." This wiw one of th statement made by Mrs. tl. Frsti.cis Curtis at the con veil I Ion of Natunal AmiH'laliiin of Chart! ten ami Correct ens recently held at Atlanta, (la. MIfs Florence Hayward of 8t. Louis is the first and inly woman to be appointed on the executive staff of exposition com mirsioner. i-ihe in special commissioner in Furore of the l-ouisinn Purchase exposi tion nnd secured thnwigh her personal ef fort for the fair the loan of Queen Vic toria's Jubilee presents. An American woman who met Whistler, the artist, a year or two ago was amazed at the brilliancy of his) wit ami the orig inality of his character. "He was lite no other human rxHng I ver knew," she says, "a creature of moods and epigrams, but altogettwr delightful. After sn hour's chat with him I fell hs If 1 had been convers ing with a flush of lightning." Fran Charlotte Wechssler of Stuttgart attained lu r both birthday on June f. Hhn hns been a widow for sixty-four years. The niusoiu of Stuttgart and llm person ally rtwigra tula fed hr on her centenary, and tho king of Wurtemburg sent her n magnificent Iv bound bible through her grandson. Major Kahre du Four. Managers of the new Women's eluh nt St. George's, Del., nre In a quandary whether they shall acrept a piano aa a gift from J Kd wards Addle., S-rnw of tho women wish to receive the piano, but ntkers are bitterly opposed to taking any gift from th gas magnate. The club has Just been started ami a lively time Is expected If a vr.te shali he taken on the matter. Queen Helena of Italy has a very prac tical knowledge of cooking. At her father's homely and unpretentious court Queen Helena learned many useful things, mid among them the art of cooking. The prince of Montenegro insisted that all his chil dren should learn a trade a rule which, by the way. obtains In the German Imperial family and the future queen became not merely a good plahi cook, but also skilled In the preparation of the curious sweet meats and paiisseslc of which orientals urd so fond. Frills of Fashion White cotton net. printed in a soft blue fre'l's pnffern ovrr which clamher trntling vines of pink rones, is ideal material for a picturesque berr.ere frock. IDcep collars of panne, ornamented with embroidery or Inset lace, are likely to he much worn in the fall, replacing tho cape collars of Isce. embroidered batiste, etc. 8ofre of the prettiest parasols carried this summer are covered at home with materia 1 to match the summer gown and trimmed with applume of luce flowers, with late or chiffon rufBes annind the edge. The brond. straight sr-arf of tulle In black or white, edgrd by n deep, full frill of tulle, is a becoming and fashionable sccomsani ment for the decollete ball gown and. can easily be made at home. Some of th new and small wiiutbags of pin metal have frtngra terminating la small baroque rrts. CMhers have pendants formed of tiny Imitation moonstones set In circles of the gun metal. Many of the new neck chains for fass or other toilette accessories are run through balls of amethyst, topoa, coral or ether stones, or imitation stones, tnstrad of hav ing smalt cval or circular-shaped stones set in the metal of the chains. Tbe combination of widely different ma terial still prevails. Hands of cloth bor derrd with narrow rucbings of taffeta trim frocks of mousaellne or other sheer stuff, cut-out ctoth is spoiled to chiffon, and cloth perforated In the brnderie Anglalse fashion ) and with the design outlined in button-hols stitch la combined with Olmy fabrics A tkin fif AmtifM a a joy fart nan Dt. T. FELIX GOUtAinrs 0R1L1TAL CJtFAIL na Hiram KiioiaKk - - 'M,jfc PbAwiiricji Braevaa Tma. PtaiIa r :, Mat raitkia. iuu ajia si jiia- i , aaa vurf It kaa aluo4 tto tril f srtjr-Qva yvaraa and la aa kanulue IMa S to tx aur M fa patptrlr auda. Aacepa tiei NwtMrfMt ! iml- aw lue. Dt. L.1 A- ar aa!4 lo taay at tha hiut-, toa (a patlaat): "Aa aa kadlva artU aaa Ikn I oouaauca cnsaar ta. u.i mt ail IK m arasaratlaaa. W w aM Araaaiata aaa tux saate alia la las Italia Xalej aa Sanav mn. t. none Ms. rrevtv JI Oraat Jonaa SC. N. XV.