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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 5, 1903)
What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion EW YOKK. July 3. The many out door pleasures indulged in by the sturdy summer girl ' render ath letic costumes a necessity for the stylish wardrobs. All the world, or the best iurt or tt, plays golf, and the tiny fraction which does not wields the tennis racquet or rides or beats. 80 where even the fashionable world once went summer ing in its oldest duds It is now suitably dressed for every outdoor occasion. The many details embraced by the nth letic fields may lie bought at the shops which devote themselves to sporting attire, and here and there in the big department stores such placards as "Running and jumping sweaters; boating Jerseys, golf bloomers," are encountered. All of this goes to show that the development of the feminine muscles is a matter as fashionable as It is important for health. No matter how much health may demand it, the ver dict of fashion Is awaited before any sport Is accepted. Fashion, as represented by Consuelo, Duchess of Marlborough, Is said to bo re sponsible for the awakening of American interest in the delights of archerv. Arch ery, as the American mind has considered li up to now. seemed a milk and water amusement confined to thj rtirnl Knglish maiden and her curate admirer. But it seems even Britain's queen speeds the arrow from the bow on occasions, and, all the court following suit, our own duchess gives us delicately to understand that arch ery 1 the thing. Some Timely lON'T tell a girl that beauty is D or no value, dress of no use. Beauty Is of Vfl 111 A O or! 11 '0 p jfrj whole happiness in life may de Pond upon a new gown or a becoming hat. Don't wear expensive clothes, but let them be stylish and tasteful and show thnt they have been carefully chosen and that you have made the most of your self. Don't have any loose ends or staring pins. Let your clothes be carefully put on. Have an air of good grooming. Look as though you had used somebody's soap. Don't be conscious of your dress and gloves and veils and jewels and expect every one else to admire them. Don't walk up to a mirror to gaie at yourself Immediately when you go Into a room. Study your mirror u good deal, but only in the seclusion of your room. Don't give way to nerves, emotions or tears; they ruin good looks. "No emotions, no wrinkles," is an old beauty recipe. Don't expect that any one recipe can prove a specific for all complexions. Don't think the secret of a woman's beauty lies in the use of cosmetics. It Is found in resplendent health and u happy mind. Don't be afraid to blush; it is becoming. A sudden flush accomplishes more in a mo ment than the sustained efforts of statu esque beauty. Don't be jealous of the beauty, youth ami success of others. Jealousy plants ugly lines In the face. Don't think It enough to be a beauty. In order to approach perfection a woman should try to Improve herself morally and Intellectually as well as physically. Don't imagine that In order to be a belle you must be a great beauty. Charm of manner, a beautiful voice or an accom plishment turns many a plain woman Into a U'lle. Don't gush If you want to be attractive. You may not be beautiful or clever, but if good tempered, possessed of the gift of looking on the golden side of things and never given to gushing, you may be more attractive than many girls who can boast only of their beauty. Don't think that women are less lieauti ful than formerly. There Is greater beauty now and more of it than at any time in the world's history. We may congratulate ourselves that we live in the most beau tiful age of the world. Don't fall to appreciate the fact that while beauty may not bring happiness, it Is nevertheless a power. It is to a woman what capital Is to a merchant. Its absence may not be a misfortune, but its culture Is wise and proper. UK athletic girl of today is a stir prise to people who have not been noting her development. She lias grown beyond all recognls -d standards to classical dimeniibms The bootmaker still calls a 4 B shoe his model, exhibits it In Ills window, and It Is a pretty little thing to see. But the ath letic girl, who has been brought up In a family where she has had an opportunity to live a healthful, natural life, with plenty of outdoor exercise, laughs at such tiny things. The athletic girl has brought about an entire chango In the hosiery departments of the shops. There was never a time when thero were prettier or more extravagant things for women in the cobweb varieties of line lisle thread and silk. Women wear these expensive things for outdoor sports Si Everything else considered, there is no doubt that this game, which is fascinating In the extreme when you come to know It, Is a fine medium for showing off pretty toggery. Aa success at the game depends largely on garments which do not con fine the figure, the lines of a well-built person are also shown off to the best ad vantage. A costume Just designed by a well-known fa I souse for archery Is coquettish In the extreme. Red and white dotted delaine is the texture of this finery, which takes linos almost childishly simple. A very short skirt and a blouse bodice trimmed wlh bandt, of plain red composes the model. The high boots which will le worn with it will be of white canvas with red trim mings and strings, and a red leather licit and quiver will complete the costume. In cidentally, the huge bow will also be red. and the slender arrows tipped with feathers of the same vivid shade. For golfiing purposes there are many trig costumes in the ready-made market, a careful Inspection of which will sometimes result In a lucky "find." One costume of the luck kind Is of blue and white spotted linen with plain bands. A hip yoke of un common novelty embellishes the skirt of the suit, upon the blouse of which the band trimming takes the form of an ad Justed tie. The woolen textures presented for golf are Innumerable. Pretty tweeds in Scotch and English patterns are seen, and when the neutral colors are made up a line of vivid scarlet edging bands, belts and collars Tips for Up-t-Date as well as for dress occasions, but the sixes have developed with the women who wear them. Where 8, 8 and 9 were worn five years ago, the girl of today wears 9H 10, 1H4. and she would often wear U If she could get it. In the shoe shops there is the same no ticeable change. The boots are made to go over the 10 and 10V4 silk stockings. In the "misses' department" of the fash ionable shoe store spring heel shoes range from children's slees up to boots so big that they might belong to young giantesses. They are for athletic glrla who ore kept children as long as possible and wear tho spring heel boots until they are ready to make their bow to society. Gloves have changed with other acces sories of the feminine wardrobe, und the well-built girl wears SV4, 7 and 7V4 in place of the 5, 5 and 6 that have been worn. For one thing, her hands are not only large, but she no longer stops the circula tion by squeezing her hands Into a glove a size too small for her. She cannot tool a coach or handle an automobile with hands In a vlr so she wears something that is an eas fit. ANY a girl is busy nowadays deco M rating her room, her personal be longings and herself with the (lowers, gems and colors which have reference to her birth mnmh anu in making presents to her friends she gives them also the same significance. For the last few years there has been an Increasing attempt to ma ho gifts which recognize, in some way the recipient's pet fads. As this is an athletic age, all sorts and kinds of things have been made having reference to golf, tennis, bicycling, riding and driving. Now the fad Is to utilize the symlsjls of the birth month. For herself the girl uses chiefly the flowers for tho month in which she was born. These she cultivates, If she has a sirden, and wears. She decorates her room with them in draperies, bed covers, upholstery for- reed or willow furniture and hangings for her windows. There are so many pretty things In floral designs that every purso finds something desirable within reach. The girl even embroiders her handkerchiefs and lingerie with her flower, though it must be said that she does not put much work Into the latter unless it is for a trousseau. In this outdoor age she cares more for sports than for needlework and she can buy her underwear for less than she can nia!-e It. Here are the three chief emblems for the several months-gems, flowers and astral colors. January-White onyx, snowdrop, brown' silver-gray and bjack. February-Amethyst, primrose, pink, blue and Nile green. March Bloodstone, violets, white emerald and black. pink, April-Diamond, daisy, nhite and rose May-Kmerald. hawthorn, red and lemon yellow. June Pearl, honeysuckle, red, blue and white. July Ruby, water Illy, green and russet brown. August Moonstone, poppy, red and green. September Sapphire, morning glory, gold and black with blue dots. October Opal, hops, black, crimson and light blue. November Topat. chrysanthemum, golden brown and black. I ecemler Turquoise, holly, gold and town. and cuffs will often give them the gar touch needed. Some of the thicker cloths are double faced with scarlet, and when hat, shoes and belt match, the effect Is dashing. louring the hotter days of the summer tho golf girl to whom white is becomtr g turns her back on all established rules and wears toilettes of angelic purity. Coarse mesh Irish linen is a favorite texture. The costumes, howrver, show no sign of the rich embroideries which deck such mate rials elsewhere. For golf such dresses and others in wash textures are mnde with a severe tailor plainness, though frivolous lawn sunbonnets, gay belts und vividly colored shoes will give them a llxy air. Gloves are not usually worn for this game, but golf gloves are to be had at all of tho good sporting shops. The best are of white French thread, with perforations at the double palms. They keep the hands cool, and, it Is raid, prevent the redness which results from unventl'ated gloves. To spend a week In the country haunts of tho fashionable HW Is to be convinced that their country toilettes are extremely simple. They are to be seen coaching In muslin frocks which a housemaid could afford. The horsewoman likewise ch"xse Inexpensive textures for their equestrienne toilettes. Kahki. trimmed only with stltch ings, composes the usual rlcltng dress, with which go tun top boots and a plain straw sailor hat. '1 e fit of the long-tailed J icke". Is not the best In the world, but then It must be remembered that the elect do not need to have perfectly fitting clothes. A Women There are gorgeous things in the way of birthday pillows ready made or ready stamped at a low price to make up in birth day designs. These have not only the ap propriate colors, flowers and jewels, but the signs of tho zodiac for the month. The birth month colors or flowers are also put Into picture frames, handkerchief and tie or veil cases, cushions and bureau' covers. The Imitation jewels can be bought to sew on. Birthday spoons with the appropriate flowers can be found, some with the gems set In, and rings with both flowers and gems. For the children there are pencils and penholders set with Imitation birth stones. -- J summer Girl this year is a I I Powder Rag Girl. She Is more I ty t V, r. . I 1 , n, ,-r imwuer rag man she Is to her golf club, and that Is saying a exeat den I All this does not mean that she "makes up." In these days she puts on her peaches and cream complexion by natural means outdoor exercise, a generous diet of well cooked food and plenty of cereals and fruit. The powder rag is only a small but Important accessory In the making of her toilet. It helps to keep her the dainty, sweet, wholesome girl that she is. A powder rag Is a piece of an old, soft linen handkerchief perhaps a whole hand k' rchlcf, if It is small, or a scrap of thin, soft chamois. Its every pore is filled with powder Just In the right condition to take the shine from an ovcrwurm face, but not enough to spill uncomfortably. Wherever the summer girl goes there Is always so-ne little corner dedicated to the mysteries of hi r tnilet-in the restaurant where she takes her lunches If she Is In town, In the shops and in the hotels. There nro Innumerable small fresh towels, and with one of thess she removes the dust, whisks out her powder rag. goes over her face lightly and carefully with it, gives a final pat with the towel and looks as cool as a cucumber and as fresh as a daisy, though she may have traveled all the morn ing. Tho people who- eater to tho nnH I fanc ies of the summer girl, maid and mat ron, havo tried to oust the powder rag. They have brought out the dearest of little powder puffs and found the quaintest places to hide them in. Observe the girl wearing on her long chain a hall of gold, silver or gun metal and nine chances out of ten it will contain a tiny puff and a littlo round mirror. Or It might bo an English walnut shell of gold or silver made on tho same lines, though the ball has usurped this to some extent. If the girl Isn't wearing an ornament, don't be deceived. Ask her to unscrew the flat round top of her umbrella handle. Or she has a net-suklo purse with one of the same flat round knobs, jind that also holds lrer powder puff. She may have a tiny Jeweled box In the handbag that she Is seldom without and that might be a bon bon box, but it is more likely to contain another miniature puff. But the tiny powder puffs are only pleas ing, because they are pretty. For away-from-home use the girl clings to her powder rag. and here is the secret of where she usually carries it. It must lie whispered at the last minute under the breath. If any one should chance to surprise the summer girl making a dive for It, she will see a flutter of many-frilled skirts, and while she Is wondering If this is a new dancing step, the summer girl will have flipped the bit of linen from the top at her silken Blocking. certain harmony in the whole getup marks the child of fashion, and tho detail may go. The costumes of the country gentry for Sunday church-going display the good seuso manifested elsewhere. The toilettes are everywhere unpretentious, so that when a shower falls, as sometimes happens, no great harm Is done. A pretty girl and an equally pretty child emerging from a fashionable church Int a brisk rainstorm not long since wore tho S'irt of finery that might be dumped In the washtub and not be greatly damaged. A foulard with enormous disks of deep blue on a white background cnmoaed the grown-up costume, which consisted of n, skirt In three flounces and a belted coat. Over the shoulders of this a deep cape gave tho costume a waterproof look, but It was simply fashioned of wash foulard. The little maiden, who was perhaps 6 years old, wore one of tho loose sacquo coats fashionable for both the big and littlo world. Pongee In a deep cream wus Its texture, which an embroidered collar In the same texture trimmed prettily. Pongee needs to be shrunk before making up. Unless this Is done unsightly spotting will ensue with the first shower. Beautiful shades of blue, dark rod and yellow are now seen in this durable ma terial, which lends Itself well to the Eng lish smocking at present so fashionable. Some frocks for the smallest fry of both sexes, lately imported, were shaped al most entirely by this deft honey-combing, which looks Impossible to the uninitiated, but is a slmiXe matter to the knowing. Forming body yokes, belts and cuffs, the smocking gathered together as dainty little frocks aa anyone would wish to see. Silk and wool bodices, so manipulated, are recognised as valuable garments In digenous only to Indon, and few travelers return from the world's metropolis with out one. Fifteen dollars Is the usual price of such a garment, whatever Its material, aa It is upon the intricate needlework that the cost depends. But to return to athletics. Field hockey is being taken up by modlrh French women, whose toilettes are declared to be eccen tric In the extreme. The usual hockey get up In this country and England consists ot a plain wool skirt, ankle length, and a wool sweater, with the Initial of tho club In a contrasting color on the breast. The hockey-playing Parislenne follows this cos tume down to the tall of th sweater, but from there the rest of her person Is encased In bloomers or else skirts so short that barely the knee-pan Is covered. Perhaps this is accounted for by the fact thut French women have tho most beautiful legs In the world. A wool sweater represents, with Its com fortable fit and durable texture, the very basis of the athletic wardrobe. Odd as It may seem, many of these clumsy garments are exceedingly becoming. A number of the models are without tho high roll collar elsewhere displayed, the necks of sti''li styles finishing with a sailor collar which, leaves the throat exposed. Good athletic corsets are In tho shape of short girdles, composed entirely of stout linen tapes. Sporting shoes much In de mand are the rubber-solod canvas tics used this long while for tennis. Hats for outdoor- sports are of many sorts. The steeple-crowned American hat, with its simple calico trimming, is one kind in favor. But bare heads are more seen In country ways than covered ones, and the coat of tan, which is the result, Is considered no blemish to beauty. MAltY DEAN. A Un of bt iuty i a Jy forever. Tt. 1. FELIX GOURAUD'S ORIENTAL CREAM, lilt MAGICAL BCAUTIflM J ' 8 " jrSJV. 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