Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, September 01, 1901, Page 12, Image 20

Below is the OCR text representation for this newspapers page. It is also available as plain text as well as XML.

    12
THE .OMAHA DAILY ItEE: SUNDAY, SltJJIJlEK 1, 1001.
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
roil tin: ikm i: nr..u Tin i..
Domeiillc Women Arc (iolriK In llnvc
Their IiiiiIiik 'I'll I Knll.
NEW YOKK. Aug. 30. To Uio domcatlc
woman, bent on nppoarlng to tho 'beat ad
ran to go In her own home, tlio houso beau
tlful presents to her no more uttractlvc pos
lbllttlc3 than in the matter of negligees,
Easy, tooso llnoH both conceal n defective
flguro and rcven! a pretty one, and the Ren
tie diversions of nfternoon tea ami Informal
luncheons permitting this picturesque ncss
( costume, It naturally follows that Sep
tember breezes havo Wafted a world of
house clothes upon us. Indeed, so universal
lias been tho rush In this direction that
the woman who has not provided herself
with a dainty matinee, or tea gown, of
omo sort may bo likened to the foolish vlr
Hut In a few nf tho beet shops thr clcor
woman may now And the unllned applica
tions In coat shapes, only needing to be put
on wadded foundations and flnlihed. The
garment must bo very loose therein with
Its clumiy, heavy suggestion lies Its cblc
and naturally tho surface ornamenta tin
must be sewed to "stick" at every point
If It Is not It will be sure to curl up llkd
a badly-llckcd postage stamp. Kor tho
theater and other evening diversions thcsl
elaborated coats will be much worn th a
winter.
A Mlk Itrvivnl.
To return to house clothos, havo you re
marked tho charming posalhllittej of th
Loulslnn silks with china effects? Those
silks, with their delicately glittering su:
faces and shadowy designs, arc forerunners
of an Inportant silk revival, called frr h
gin who had no oil In her lamp. Those of by the prercnt leaning of fashion toward
the wise maidens shlnn more brightly than seventeenth century Rtatellncss. They arc
r
ELEQANT AUTUMN WRAI.
over, for yellow, tho golden yellow of tho
saint's aureole, is onp of their favorite
tints.
Yellow, In all Its varieties, has been scon
too much this summer to call It an entirely
new craze. But theso golden tints men
tioned, as well as certain saffron and
ochro shades, are certainly novelties this
nido of tho Atlantic. Magnificent yellow laco
Jackets havo been seen in Paris, delicate
llnlugs in pastel colors contrasting charm
ingly with tho rich webs spread over them.
So far not many of theso JacketB have
crossed tho briny, but tea gowns and mat
inees are taking to tho samo warm lac d
which beautifully set oft yalo hued mui.
and Liberty tissues,
Throe Hlyllult Ton JncUrtn.
In form many of tho tea Jackots show
bolero or bodlco effects, under which looao
kilted, deep points will hang half way to
tho knees. Tho laeo edges thin, and Is
Boinotlmcs Inserted above In several rows.
On the short matlneo3 tho Insertions tako
whatever lines aro becoming to tho figure,
but tho bolero suggestion is apt to bo ac
centuated. A kilted flounce, falling to tha
lbow from a pointed shoulder cap, Is con
Bldcred a pretty Rleovo; and palo bluo silk
finished lawn and black Ghantllly lnco nro
found effectivo materials.
A girlish Jacket for a maldon In her teens
Is of npplo blossom pink with snffron laeo
yoke and Insertions. Liberty silk, In flno
klltlngs, is tho texture, and llko tho other
two Jackots in tho cut, the sleeves aru only
elbow length.
Coming to tho third lady, one sees a sug
gestion of tho peacoek'B tall In tho lowor
ahaplng of her lino rocoptlon Jacket. Tho
rcsemblnnco is not conllned to Hi form,
for In the original tho skirt of this sar.
mont glittered with tho rich blues and
Brocns of tho lleau Ilrummcl of birds,
changeable spangles and shaded velvet ap
plications providing the ochemo of color.
Tho background was of whito not, with
each flower outlined, and tendrils traced, by
black buttonhole stitch. A bertha of tho
pangled net, which llkowlso formed tho
puffed sleovos, draped tho shoulders becom
ingly; and thn Jacket was worn with o
plain net blouse and deml-trnlned skirt of
whlto Lyons silk, a delicate audacity pos
slblo only to n pretty woman.
l.lrKiiiit A ii tu in n W'riuin,
Tho exceedingly dccoratlvcncss of appli
cations that contrast sharply with tho back
ground Is nawheru moro noticed than cn
tho lino automobile conta, smart Nswrort
nd Tuxedo women aro lately wearing. Over
some deeply toned silk or velvtl will be
spread magnificent designs In whlto or prU
colored tnffeta, the pattern of tho acp Ici
tlons according doftly with the shape of col
lar and sleeve Thin superb yokes are
outlined, and rich medallions will cmrht
silo tho bust. The deep turnover collar
will ho In tho same texturj as this surface
figuring and somotlmea down ench front of
tho garment thori will bo thieo Jnwolrd
buttons holding sntln or velvet rosett s
with ends, These aro known to the learned
s "cockades,"
Of coui3c, ns suggestions to the mult -tude,
euoh coats present small hope, ps f w
nro rich enough to buy thorn and s 111 fewer
skilled enough to mako them. Am! th y
are decidedly out of place In tho demncratli
street cars, which aro more frequently our
model of conveyance than aro nutomob hs.
louisine"'
the prologue which will In time Introduce
tho gold threaded brocades of tho Louis,
whoso tabbed Jackets, rich laces and Jeweled
buttons are always with us.
Meanwhile thesc.partlcular webs "are run
ning to no great ptcturc3qucness of model.
They aro mado up 4n the becoming round
bodices and frou-frou skirts unlversnlly nd
mlrcd and with them aro combined the vel
vet ribbons and fairy loces of tho summer.
Sometimes n silk bias, to match the figure
In tha material, U usod to head skirt
flounces and form vests, collars and cuffs.
Not uncommonly it is plpod with black.
and with this a lino of brownish lace may
cover tho band of color making a three-ply
trimming hlghiy decorative.
One very beautiful house drcs3 lately
seen was a gray crepo do chine, mado 01
tlrcly In shirtwaist tucks between strips of
"oyster" colored lace. Laco In thlj pale
luminous gray Is a rival of the more be
wildering ochre shades on French gowns.
It Is curiously coarse, as if made with big
wooden needles by peasant hands, and for
that reason It is perllusly handy for the
waysldo projection, sesklng all It may catch
onto. When combined with pslo blue crrps,
however, It 'Is subtly beautifying, ta'lcg
demurely straight lines at edges and show
ing clusters of rough knots as omimen'al
as bouquets. MARY DEAN.
SMALL IDKAS FIIOM I'AIUS.
They Come hi th TrnnkN of Ilrtnrn-
NEW YORK. Aup. 30. September is horo
and autumn finery Is seen, but mainly In
small quantltlcn as yet. Dressmakers nro
awaiting th) final cue from l'arli beforo
putting forth their best efforts, and In de
fault of gleanings at these sources, return
ing voyagers aro offering a straw to tho
drowning, so to speak. One of theso amlablo
and richly trousseaued beings recently
opened her trunks to tha seeker after
knowledge, whereupon It was discovered
that all-white theater gowns will bo sprung
upon us and that royal purplo will bo usod
In "touches" on bclgo and biscuit colors.
A promcnado toilette of chcnllle-strung
net ns black as Ink and as velvety ns
paanoshowtd plainly that sleeves aro
A Blessing to ail Women
Great joy rind comfort comes Into every household
when the virtue of "Mother's Frtantl" is
known. No more clooniv forebodincs or nervousness
by expectant mothers, as all pain is prevented by the V;
liniment. There is nothing like it.
n. r. brown, .fwiddin, i.i. .riwn "Mmr r mr !'' fun h..
UMt MMIut't Fun4' Ntoie confinement, ind iif ttirjr weul.1 ael put Umufk
lh oidctl tf ila without tuilng It, etn II II cl lij i boltlt."
tw r... mIJ mm ,lnf t n.lr. Oil .Oil M RlIf I lML
MMhihood," wililea ipully im young ti4 alddltigt.1 Oiio, milled Int. tuUt.' jl
sold iy all Dsvooiirt,
Ml ua$ my ritni
fc.,r
TUB WUUFIKLB iUSGLXATOR CO. Atlaata, Urn. 25
the enthusiasm of the vast crowd was Will
lam II. Jones of New York, dressed as an
ntlileto in gymnasium togs. He kept ham
mering continuously at n miniature punch-
leg bag,
! Frederick nnd -Fannies Corbett of Now
York were resplendent In a gorgeously dec
oraled float, costing nearly $500 to con
struct. The children were typical reprcien-
tatlves of Japan and wero roundly np-
not to get smaller, but bigger. That Is, I'laudcd. In tho evening Miss (Jrnco M.
at one end the bottom, since undcrslecvei ' Crawford, personating Tltanla, the Queen
have been found too cxo.ulsltely fcmlnluo of Fairies, held her carnival In tho teach
a detail to bo dropped too suddenly.
The short, square hung Jacket reflected
something of the past summer, ns well
as tho frilled skirt and embroidered col
lar. Tho whlto monssellno blouse to be
worn with this costumo also showed
black embroideries, a single splendid me
dallion setting off tho front of tho stock
llko a brooch. The accompanying hat
beige folt, with blaok panuo and yellow
velvet roses was a bewitching head piece.
The wldo brim drooped sharply nt back
and front, tho yellow roses forming tho
under trimming,
auditorium In tho presenco of a great gath
orlng of summer guests, and dispensed her
favors In tho form of tho various prizes
,won during tho day's parade,
I'rllln of 1'n-liloii.
Shnded materials nro coming Into voguo
acnln.
The latest tng ornnmonts nre mado ot
coins or Jewel." In pear or round shapes.
Hlack nml pnle blue Is n combination that
this Houson has divided favor with the ever
popular black nnd white.
Genuine nnthiue Persian brocade Is used
fur tin! fMshlnmililp llttln wrist Ikico. with
Where It bout over tho clasps of carved oxidized silver set with
hair nt the rear was placed a flat velvet
bow, tho ends almost touching the shoul
ders. Theso flat, tightly attached bows, It
scorns, arc now prominent features of
Parisian hats with brims. As soon as
you boo a wldo hat coming you know what
to expect behind It.
Tho great, flatly rolled turbans that
appeared with us this summer nro also
much worn, tho stamp of thorn consist
ing In tho wny they hug tho head nt tho
back and bulge heavily over the face. In
deed, these big turbans aro all front, but
It Is wonderful how little tho deficiency of
rear matters on a handsome, smoothly
dressed head.
In tho samo trunks aforementioned mnr
velously beautiful handkcrchlcfa wero
unearthed, showing shaped hems nnd but
terflies In a. solid color. Theso wero In
serted bodily in ono corner of tho whlto
center, a line of fine embroidery attach
ing them, nnd tho delicate moths Increas
ing In size till tho last was quite n Ufo-llko
Individual. Tho swarm consisted of from
flvo to seven flies, which wero only thcro to
lndlcato thu presenco of nn embroidered
monogrnm, so exquisitely hued nnd flower
decked that It scorned In Itself a precious
possession.
And all this, mind you, had been dono
by hand, by tho nuns of a modest convent
In n r(moto corner of Paris! Iluttcrllles
and nuns It seems a singular combination.
Mado by tho samo Indies wero somo
highly decorntlvo night robes, with red
Russian embroideries outlining squaro
necks and flowing sleeves. Tho material of
thso was white Roumanian linen, tho samo
coarse, loose llnon of tho peasant maidens,
whoso loose chemises suggested tho graco
ful garment. Tho gowns nro tho rago In
Paris, so we can not escape.
nm hunch of iiAiuns.
A Wonderful I'nrndi- of YoniiKMcrit nt
Anbury l'nrk.
No moro delightful spectaclo wna ever
witnessed at Asbury Park than
tho nearly 700 babies, participants
nt 3 o'clock Wednesday after
noon, August 21, In the annunl baby pa
rade. It was tho principal event of tho
season, nnd CO.OOO summer visitors crowded
both sides of tho ono mllo stretch of Ocean
avenuo to watch tho procession.
Many sections of tho country wore repre
sented, and thero was one participant from
Paris, Franco, and ono from Syria. Thirty
flvo prizes will bo distributed.
In tho parade thero were conches nnd
floats that cost their owners from $100 to
$300 to decorate, and tho effect ns tho pro
cession filed past tho court of honor of
Queen Tltanla, represented by Miss Grace
M. Crawford ot Now York, wob dazzling.
The grand stand, opposlta tho queen's court,
with n seating capacity of C,000, wns fully
occupied, and for one mllo tho Ocean nvo
nue was llnod with summer visitors. All
tho avenues running Into tho ocean wero
a,l:o densely packed with fashionable turn-i
outs from tho neighboring resortB of Long
Branch, West End, Deal, Alleuhurst, Del
mar and Spring Lake.
As the procession moved tho participants
wero bombardod with confetti nnd colored
papers. Prominent In tho lino wns Vir
ginia Hope Kelsey, aged 4 years, of As
bury Park, seated In her chariot, repre
senting tho Queen of Waters, driving n
monster butterfly, with Miss Grnco Miller
seated above her as tho Queen ot Night,
waving a golden wand over her queen. This
won tho first prlzo In tho class for best
decorated coaches.
Tho $1B0 sterling silver loving cup wen.
to Armund do Cliniatcnncuf of Newark,
dressed as General Lafayotto, nnd mounted
on n cream whlto pony. Ilaiph Englesman
of Now York wns another tot to provoko
frequent bursts of cheering nil along tho
lino of march. Ho personated Superintend
ent Devory of Now York.
Margaret O'Neill of Jersey City, a sweet
llttlo miss of thrco summers, seated In a
carriage, completely covered with fresh
roses, smllax and silken ribbons, was en
thuslastlclly applauded by tho great
throng at almo3t every step. Proudly wnlk
Ing In tho procession wero Florence nnd
Violet Mayer ot Jersey City, preceded by a
toddling boy garbed In tho vestments ot
a priest, carrying tho marrlago cer'flcatu,
with tho Mayor children for u. " i and
groom. S. Herbert McNatr of Brooklyn as
King of tho Sea was literally showered with
confetti nnd sorpentlnos throughout tho
long march. Ho was "Neptune," seated In
gorgeous float. Another llttlo man to arousi
coral
Tho newest millinery ornaments nro of
gun metal, studded with rut steel or rhino
ilonoH. Cut Jet combined with u'old wlh nlo
1)0 used for hat decoration during tho com
Z season.
For men travelers n "hotlRCWlfn" lins born
designed, which consists of n handy leather
case containing needles, thread, button
and scissors. The case can lie rolled Into
Mrs. Todd brlngx home photoarauhs which
site will use In lectures,
Miss Uliziibetli llearv of Cleveland Is
gaining a reputation ns ono of the most
artistic bookbinders In the country. 8h
served her nuuretitlceshlo with Miss Ulrk
enruth of London and has now a studio In
Cleveland, where she does all her design
ing, binding and Illuminating She Is now
at work on some books which she Intends
to exhibit at the Scrlbnvr collection In Now
Yurk this fall,
The attorney general of the District of
Columbia has rendered u derision that will
be welcomed bv manv women. The ques
tion whether the commissioners were au
thorized to appoint women to tho police
force has been disposed of liv blm lit the
atllrmutlvo. It was raised especially In con
nection with the work of tho Humane so
ciety, It being considered desirable to enlist
the work of women in the prevention of
cruelty to animals.
Indlunnpolls has tried the olan of women
street cur rondiictors nnd liked It not In
the first place the clrls oblected to getting
oft the car nnd running nbenil to Inspect In
tersecting railroad lines. The public rather
upheld them In this until It was discovered
Mint tob much time was taken In getting
tho fare of n lew favored pnsscngers. Tho
street car nintinseineiit decided that, after
nil. none but tho brave deserve the fare,
nnd the men conductors huve Bono back,
Miss Kllzabcth Snyder of Philadelphia, a
member of the start of tho Woman's Medi
cal college of that eltv, spends her vaca
tion studying tho habits of tbf Indians In
their vlllaucs or In oucst of ethnological
relics. Since 1K3 Miss Snvder has made
visits to the west, spending nt one time .two
years exploring tho region of tho clllt
dwellf-rs, Another year was passed on tho
Navajo reservation nnd nmonr tho IIopl
Indians. It Is said that she has tpno fur-
RICH TOILETTE IN BLACK.
compact form nnd carried In the pocket.
It is predicted that old-fashioned brocades
will bo introduced tills boohoh. at least
brocaded effects In silk. Taffeta chllTon,
which combines tho qualities of both theso
fabrics and loulsitie, ure favored silks.
If you havo a dress of whlto cashmere or
nun's veiling which Is past uso try making
u up in'o uniiorsKirts ror wear miring tno
warm, damp days of enrlv full nnd you will
never discard them. They uro both eco
nomical and useful.
Delicate pieces of very lino gold, pearl nnd
opal Jewelry aro now worn with elegant
oll-whito evening toilets, also very slender
gold loon bracelets with u slnirln diamond
surrounded with pearls, or oultn alono llko
a brilliant, dewdron set upon tho upper sldo
of tho dond gold circle.
When fura become worn or snlli'd nt tht
npek they mny be renovated by gently rub
bing with nottoii batting saturated with
gasoline, which should not bo used in a
room that has artlllclnl heat or Unlit. Axl
grease, tnr, paint and pitch may be removed
u muni,; nrm wmi on oi turpentine nnu
then with other. Dark furs mnv lin nliiitiiii
with tlno cedar or mahogany sawdust which
huh oeen r.cuieu in an oven. Alaslta sable,
seal, electric seal. fox. etc., should bo
beaten1 with n, switch until free from dust,
then laid with tho fur sldo up and tho hot
snwdust rubbed In. He lavish with the
sawdust and vigorous with tho rubbing.
After this place the Kurment upon feather
imiuwa wmi mo iurry siuo uown, and Peat
well until all traces nt thn mm-rinut hnv
disappeared. Then hang out In a Bhady
Place. Whlto fill's muv bo clnnnnl In thn
samo wuv. using whlto cornmeal instead of
uiu rawiuiBi, or ir only Niigntly soiled, liy
rubbing well with mngnesla In cakes, Wet
furs should nover bo dried near tho tiro,
but shaken nnd hung awuy In a cold room,
lili.-ii ui uauvu.
ther In the recesses of the Grand canyon
nnd its nranclics than unv other woman
Her houso nnd outfit she keeps In Arizona
i Soma sears imo Mlsg Maud Wltherspoon
n gentle, fraello lr! of New Orleans, was
thrown on her own resources by tho death
of her father. With tin Invalid mother to
take caro of. she cast about for some means
of earning Biibslstenco for both. In hap
pier dayrt she tiBed to manufacture rng
dolls, paint thtelr laces, sew knitting hair
i) n ineir neaiis nnu no. uanunna turuaua
on them In trno southern "mummy" style,
nlwnys robing them In old-llmo guinea bluo
dresses, with white aprons and kerchiefs.
Theso she used to glvo to friends, mid. now
she thought that perhaps snmn nf the stores
might use them. Tho llrst merchant Bbo
approached took her entire stock at her
own price. Tno uusiness tnus established
has grown Into a largo factory nnd Miss
Wltherspoon supplies several extensive
urms norm unit soutn.
Millions drink Cook's Imperial Extra
Dry Chnmpagno every year and tho num
bers are rolling up with a rush.
For nml Ahont AVoiueii,
Tho kalserln of Germany, unlike her hus
band, has but nnn fad. This Is fnr thn
building of churches, much of tho design
Ina; of which Bhc does herself, ns alio has a
cood knowlediie of and tnsto for architecture.
Mrs. Mabel Loomls Todd nf Amherst,
Miss., nnd her dnutrhtor. Miss Mllllecnt
Todd, a student at Vassnr. havo started
from Borneo on their wav from tho South
Sea Islands, having gone thero last Juno to
witness tno midsummer ecllpso of the sun,
Ilryn Mnivr Girl.
Now 'iork Times: "Of course somo ot
our probloms in mathematics aro very puz
zling," said tho firyn Mawr sophomore
"but thero Is. a far harder question which Is
no way connected with our studies. Thcro
Is an unwritten law In Bryn Mawr that n
girl must not walk along with a professor,
ami wo nro an very careful about observ
lng It. Thero Is another rule, also unwrit
ten, that a student must not walk about
nlono after dark. Now, If a girl Is detained
unavoidably in the evening, and whllo walk
ing homo meets n professor going her way.
which rulo is buo to break? Thcro havo
beon a great many bitter discussions about
that point, find nobody has ever reached a
decision."
"Yos," said her friend sympathetically, "l
must bo a very troublesome question. But
what does a girl generally do when Bhe Is
caught In such nn embarrassing situation?
"Oh, that," replied tho'yoting collegicuno.
"depends entirely on how well sho likes tho
professor."
Washburn
55
CUITARSl
ANDOLIN$
BANJOS
alone
iv
point
of
Value
Why ? An American always wants to know why. Because
more Washburns arc sold than all competing makes put
together, and you obtain fully double the intrinsic value. In
short, if a Washburn were not made by the world's greatest
musical manufactory it would cost you twice its present price.
BEAUTIFUL CATALOG FREE
. .r n
71
ty
Sold by Leading Music Denleis Everywhere.
LYON & HEALY, Mfrs., Chloogo
THE FAME OF MME. RUPPERT
HAS NEVER BEEN EQUALLED BY ANY OTHER
COMPLEXION SPECIALIST
The most
imitated
woman in
the world
A TRIO OF TEA JACKETS.
For thirty
years a
successful
career
Tut Discoverer or Facx Bleach
MME. A. RUPPERTS
PaceT3leac
Removes Permanently
PIMPLES, BLACK HEADS, FRECKLES,
ECZEMA, MOTH PATCHES, SALLOW
NESS, and WRINKLES NOT CAUSED
BY FACIAL EXPRESSION. : : : : :
Does not cover up but removes the blemish. '
RaceT3leach
BRIGHTENS, CLEARS and BEAUTIFIES the COMPLEXION
It Improves a Good Skin and Works Wonders 'with Bid One.
ITS MERITS KNOWN THE WORLD
OVER. USED AND RECOMMENDED
BY REFINED PEOPLE EVERYWHERE.
cAbsolutelyf Harmless and Always Saccessfut.
Drop In ind ktobive Mm. Rupecrl'i Fce Bleach shown tpron,
nd bivc lt merltt, rainntr of uilof ind wonderful rtiulu eipUlncd,
o you will be tilliBed II It wbti jou need lor roar complexion.
We always carry a hill line of Mme. A. Ruppert's Oray Hair Restocatlftt
Egyptian Balm, Almond Oil Complexion Soap and Hair Tonic.
Call and have their merit explained to you.
Ask for Mme. Ruppcrfs book. "HOW TO BE BEAUTIFUL." FREE,
KUHN & CO.,
The Reliable Prescription Pharmacists,
Sole Agents for Omaha.
I
'
b ,s
PARE YOU FEELING BADLY? (f
RICKLYASH BITTER
Dr. Burkhart's Wonderful Offer
Days' Treatme nt
mjBMPnuNB.
EEETABIE
A Oiin nullum Cure, fur Klr-icy nml
Liver Dlnease, Kov-r and ABur, iinim-
matlam, Hick and Ncrvotw Hemmriif. r.r-
Mlpclas, Hcrofula, J'cmaio i-oiniimmn, v ...
tarrli, Indication, Neuralgia, Nctvoiih Af
frctlon, Dvspopula, CoriHtlpatlon and nil
blood dlnoru-cru. All (iruKSi
lilt. V. 5S lllJll IVIl.t ,t I .iiii'iiimiii
Kitchen Utensils
HAVING THIS
Trade Mark
Are SAFE:
NO POISON
Ii used la (be enamel.
PIMPLES
POSITIVELY CURED.
With my tcienlino trtatmsnto, fpe
tully prcpaiud (or each Individual
cant'. I Mpeedlly and permanently rurr
blackheadH, Urtce prra, ptmplftH, nrd
nil dlnorder aftectliiK tho nltln, the
toalp and nrrvouH byttern, at your
home. Consultation In perxon or by
letter In tree urn! strictly conlldnntlnl,
JOHN H. WOODBURY O. I.,
10.1 M'ATU KT cur. Monroe, t'lllf.WIU
f-i CHICHESTER'S CNGLIBW
Pennyroyal pill;:
W5jBv i, UK1, ttt U)M Iu,t;,t,,;',nj
I'aua.rou. tmb.llluUonl an JmnJl
II. a. .r ;..r lrf in. ( .ol 4r. I
11 Pr.iiiii.. l.lth.t,r l.r.,r,Mj.'
(0
3
0
(til j UU
MH-,m otuuu VUKO I'li