8
Features of Manila
(Continued from I'nge Seven.)
wo dash through the streets. Wo skirt one
of tbo canals, cross a brldgo and enter tho
church. A black-gowned priest with a
shaven tonsure opens tbo door, and wo climb
round and round up tho hundrods of steps
of a slim spiral stalrcnso till wo como
to tho top. Wo aro now far abovo tho city
on tho outermost edgo of Manila. Tho city
lies on a plain- backed by bluo mountains.
It covern miles of land running about tho
bay, beyond which ara other mountains and
rolling hills. It Is a town of 350,000 In
habitants, all of whom llvo In ono and two
story houses. Thcro aro no tall buildings,
except tho churches and cathedrals, which
havo domes and towers rising high abovo
tho rest of tho city. There aro green trees
hero and thcro showing out above tho houso
roofs.
Almost In front of us Is tho walled part
of tho town. This Is but small In comparl-
OMAHA ILLUSTRATED JiEE.
Mnrch 4, 1000.
a shirt and pantaloons, and tho shirt Is In
all cases outsldo tho trouscra. Tbo ma
jority of tho men and boys, In fact, remind
ono of tho hero of Mother Goose, "Llttlo
Dlckoy Dout, who had his shirt tall out."
Tho ahlrt talis of tho Filipinos, howovor,
aro Intentionally out for tho enko of cool
ness. Tho air Is thus admitted to tho bare
flkln, tho whlto linen flapping merrily In
tho brccza as they walk. Tho effect Is, on
tho wholo, rather atrlklng and you look for
them to rush around tho cornor and tuck
their flhlrts In. Somo of tho shlrtu aro Im
ported, with well-Iaundorcd bosoms, In
which aro gold studs. Tho native shirts are
of tho thinnest gauzo, a sort of cross be
tween haircloth ond mosquito netting.
Thoy aro all colors whlto, yellow, black and
pink being often embroidered and stamped.
Tho stuff is llko that which tho women horo
wear for their dressce stuff which Is so
dollcato and no beautiful that tho American
women buy It for party or evening gowns.
Further down In tho buslnens streets of the
MANILA TUB FILIPINOS AUK CLEANLY.
son with tho rest, which spreads for a long
dlstanco up and down and back from tho
sea. At tho right, runnlug through tho midst
of tho city, Is tho Hlvcr I'aslg, a dirty
stream perhaps a thousand feot wide, which
at times of tho year Is so doop that small
steamers can como up It and anchor nt tho
wharves, but now bo low that tho boat lu
which wo camo from Hong Kong must re
main out In tho bay.
Tho walled city Is old Manila. It Is largely
taken up with government buildings. Thore
Is tho palaco whero Ocneral Otis and his
officials do their business, and thcro also aro
a largo number of churches and monasteries,
tho church owning, I should say, at least
ono-thlrd of tho old city.
That part or Manila nt tho right outsldo
tho walls In whero tho most of tho people
llvo and whero nearly all of tho business Is
dona. Away off nt tho edges you can seo
fiiBlilonnblo suburbn, such as Malato, where
tho finest rcflldoncro of tho Filipinos aro,
ind thoro down on tho bay Is tho Lunotn,
tho park whero all nwoll Manila goes to
drlvo at G o'clock ovory nftoruoon. Hack of
tho city, as you can seo If you will but turn
bout on tho church tower, Is a great green
plain as fresh now as Ohio In Juno, with
clumps of green trees npottlng tho fields.
That Is tho country, tho rlco fields and tho
vegetable gardeim which aid In supplying
tho marketfl of tho town.
As 'wo look tho sun comes near to lUs
setting. Tho roads in tho plain arc filled
with people who miiko whlto lines through
tho green fields. Thcwo nro tho suburbanites
of this Filipino capital, tho poor who work
In tho stores nnd factories nnd aro now re
turning to their homos. Many of thorn aro
woman, who havo bright rod sklrta. nbovo
which arc draped black nhawls. Tho red
catches tho rays of tho sun and wc havo a
band of vcrmllllon botwocn tho green and
tho black.
Hut lot us go down and walk through tho
streets back to our hotel. Wo nro moving
along with tho strango charactora of this
etrungo city. Hundrods of brown-skinned,
black-cycd men, women nnd children xo by
us. Thoy havo eyes nlmcnt Blunting and thoy
nro of all Bhadcw from yellow to black.
Thoy arc not bo tall as our peoplo nt home
nnd moat of them aro lean rather than
fat.
How qucerly they dress. Many of tho
men nnd women nro clad In stiff gauzo ns
thin us mosquito nottlng, through which
tho air has free patwago and through which
tho okln till own. Thoy havo clothes of tho
dlfferont Philippine, clotlm nuiila of tho
fiber of tho plneapplo and other plnnts,
which Is ns stiff ns hair, but which In somo
cases Is na lino oa spun silk. The women
nro without hats or bonnots and their lux
uriant black hair lu dono up In a knot on
tho crown of tho head. Thoy wear Jacketn
of gauzo cut very low In tho nock, with
great bell-IIko alcoves reaching only to tho
olbow, but so full and so stiff that the arm
Is baro to tho shouldor. Under this, cr
rather bolow It, is a tight eklrt, which con
alsts of a wldo bag of calico or other light
cloth wrappod around tho waist and legs.
It falls to tho anklce and la fastened by n
twlat at tho waist. Over this waist cloth
or skirt thoro Is usually a black ahawl,
which oxtonds from tho waist to tho knees
nnd -which seems to bo Intended to hold on
the skirt.
Tbo worklngmen hare on llttlo more than
city, and cflpecln-lly on tho Escolta, you
meet many mon In suits of whlto duck,
Filipinos of tho higher clntwes, who drcsa
much as wo do.
Ciooil-Xitttirt'il mill Clriiii.
Wo hear In America much about tho dirt
nnd savagery of tho peoplo of Manila. So
far I havo soon nono of it. Tho peoplo nro
far more cleanly than tho Chinese. Even
tho poorest of them wear elenn clothes and
tho most of tho cretumcs nro whlto. In
many respects the Filipinos nro llko tho
Japnneso, or, rathor, more llko tho Bur
mceo, lioth of whom nro noted for their
clennllnefis nnd frequent bathing. Among
tho women on tho strcots you seo mnny
who wear their hair down their bncks, their
rich black manes falling usually from their
ncckH to tholr walstB. My guide, "Thomas
a Heckut," ho snys his nnmo la Docket,
tolls mo thin Is bocauso thoy aro fresh from
tho bath nnd that they go nbout so to lot
tholr lialr dry. Ho says thoro arc swim
ming bnths for woman in tho city and that
ho hlmeclf takes n plungo In the canal near
his homo every morning.
An to savngencas, tho peoplo seom to mo
moro civilized thnn any of tho Malay races
I havo yet soon. They aro far moro good
natured and friendly than tho nntlves of
tho Straits Sottlomonts. Thoy appear to bo
fond of ono another, and I seo mon nnd
boys going along with Joined hands. Tho
women go In pairs as n rule, and all laugh
and chat as thoy movo along together.
Thoro Is no scowling nt tho foreigner as In
Chlnn, and if thoy really hato tho Ameri
cans they do not show it in tholr faces.
Ilut to return to tho streets through which
we nro moving. Tho crowd has grown ns
wo approached tho business section, and wo
nro often forced to step out in tho road.
Tho sidewalks of Manila aro seldom moro
than threo feet in width, and moro than
tlireo peoplo cannot well walk abreast upon
thean. Thoy nro flagged with rough stones,
tho roadway being unpaved ns n rule. Tho
houses nro everywhere closo to tho streets,
and In many cases thcro aro blocks of build
ings which havo theso overhanging
balconies so that na you walk you aro shaded
by them from tho rays of tho sun. Many
of tho balconies havo Uielr shell windows
pushed back, and wo frequently got a glanco
from n Filipino innldon as she sits in them
nnd looks down on tho street.
HiiIn ami IIokh iih DrmiKlit Aiiliiinln.
Tho scenes In tho mlddlo of tho street aro
even moro Btrnngo than tlioso on tho side
walks. What would you think of having
rats and hogs to pull your drays and your
carriages? Well, tho Filipino drought
animals aro not much unllko these. Tho
carriages aro drawn by llttlo ponies not
bigger than 3-montlis-old calves, who nro
as ratty looking as tho tenm of mlco which
appeared boforo Cinderella, to bo turned
by tho wnnd of tho fairy Into tho magnificent
steeds which took her to tho ball of tho
prince. Thoy form tho riding and driving
animals of tho people, who flog thorn with
out tncrcy as thoy go through tho stroots.
Tho heavy work Is all done by caribou, or
wator buffaloes, which can bost bo described
by calling them tmmenso black hogs, with
borns. Thoy are as big aa tho avorago
Durham cow, and aro of tho same genus,
but no rcnpectablo American cow would
acknowledge that It had any relation to
thorn. Tho caribou has a skin llko a pig,
with black bristling hair standing out upon
It, so that you can see everywhere the hide
through tho bristles. They nave, I am
told, few pores in their skin, and they wallow
In tho water nnd mud Just llko hogs. They
are worso In this respect than hogs, for thoy
muBt wnllow several times a day in the hot
weather or they will go cruzy, and a mad
caribou Is a dangerous beast. For this reason
tholr drivers stop them every now and then
at tho river or a canal as they go through
tho streets nnd let thorn tako a ten-ralnuto
bath. Tho great toasts walk down stops
Into tho water and llo thoro with nothing
but thur heads showing out. You may seo
scores of them so bathing during a half
hour's walk along tho waterways of Manila.
Tho most of tho hauling Is dono by thoso
caribou on drnys and carts. Thoy form a
part of tho street cleaning brlgado which
aencrnl Otis has organized, and thousands of
them aro employed In transporting tho sup
plies for tho troops. They usually work
single In shafts which aro Joined at the end
by a hoop-llko yoke, which rcstB on tho
neck Just In front of tho shoulders. Thoy
are led or driven by means of a ring through
tho nose, to which lines nro fastenod. They
aro very strong and, ns a rulo, vory gontlo
If thoy hnvo their regular baths of water
and mud. I am told that they aro used gen
erally throughout tho Philippines. Even
tho children rldo them, and out In tho coun
try It Is not nn uncommon sight to seo a
l-yenr-old boy astrldo of a caribou aa It
feeds In the pasture. They furnish much of
tho milk of Manila, nnd tho poorer classes
use their meat for roasts and stows.
FRANK O. CARPENTER.
Old Noll
Detroit Journal: Tho spirit of tho great
Oliver Cromwell, ntlrnctcd by tho clash of
nrniH, thereupon betook Itself to South
Africa.
"What?" cried Old Noll. "Theso nro tho
Ilrltons? And not thoso? . I fnlth, thou
strlngrst me, or elso tho English soldiery
hnvo changed mightily since my day!"
At tho moment of his approach, under
stand, It chanced that n battle was prepar
ing, and tho Dritlsh wero covering their
breasts with their gllttorlng decorations,
whllo tho Doors wore quoting scripture nnd
singing psalms through their nosen.
The Savage Bachelor
Indlnnnpolln Preps: "If you had been nt
tho Drowns' golden wedding celebration
last night," snid tho Sweet Young Thing,
"you would hnve filtered your views on
matrimony."
"I wouldn't, olther." said tho Savngo
Dachelor. "If matrimony wero not a fnko
thore would not bo such n pow-wow raised
over a couplo that hnvo mnnaged to endure
each other for a few years, and don't you
forget it!"
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