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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Jan. 14, 1900)
In f < unixr 1.1 1fm ) OAf \ TT A TT.T.l Tfi'PR A 'V IflD The Women of ofThe The Philippines I have been making a cursory study of the gait of the Filipino women , writes a correspondent of the New York Post. As a rule , the women of nil classes nro as 1 straight as the wall of a house , If not straighten A plumb line dropped from the nape of the neck would , in most In stances , fall well behind the heels. Hut the gait Is a peculiar swing , which Is qlilto noticeable. Some charge It , as well as the stralghtness , to their habit of carrying till burdens , from a cake * of soap to a house and lot , on the top of the head. That is probably the cause cf the cruel bearing , but I think the peculiar gait duo to a curtain awing of the limbs required for keeping the shoes on the feet. The local woman's shoe consists usually of a flat solo with a too cap. Sometimej the cap has room for all thu toes , some times not. Often the solo is raised fiom the ground by wooden heels and solu blocks like , but lower than those used by the Japanese. Stockings nro not usually worn. ' Let my "gentle reader" take a pair of her little slippers and cut away from the see ! all the superstructure except a cap that will just about cover her toes , and , after gives thorn a "list to port or to starboard , " which leaves n shoulder and an upper nrm wholly bare. In the upper clrclos there Is exercised a greater care In adjustment , and a handkerchief , folded diagonally , Is laid across the shoulder and pinned In front. This tends to steady the outfit and keep It In place. The sleeves are gathered at the i shoulder and llaro outward , broadly boll- mouthed to a little below the olbow. Ways of Carrying Money A great many men have cranky Ideas i about preparing their bills for ready hand ling , reports the Hostcn Herald. One plan 1 Is to fold each bill separately , keeping the denominations apart In the various divisions 1 of their pockctbooks. This method facilitates 1 the search for the dcslied sum when making a purchase. This Is almost a sure guard 1 ngainst passing out a bill of the wrong de ' nomination. Then there are men who make a ncnt ioll of all tlioir bills. The first Is rolled by Itself to about the sizu of a lead pencil , the next Is lapped about It and so on 10 tne cud. Then a rubber band Is placed ab ut the entire FEATHER CROWNED HAT. sticking her toes Into them , try to wall ; once or twlco around her boudoir and sec how many shoes she has on after the trip. Try H again , with a little outward curving awing from the knee , with a resultant sldo swing of the hip. After a few years of practice the slipper will stay on and you will have acquired the gait of the Filipino. There Is , perhaps , a certain grace in the movement , but there Is also a go-d deal of "Bcullllng" and a general appearance of being slipshod. In fact , one guts an Idea that the average \ Filipino , male or female , is only about half- " dressed anyway , from our standpoint. The customary niulo body-covering Is only nn undershirt. These of higher social rank and greater wealth wear also a cotton shirt , era a garment of gauzy texture of some locally made material. Hut the garment will bo worn , like u coat , in the full measure of Its beauty , outside the trousers. A higher step in the social scale brings the substitution of the coat for the shirt. A Filipino dude with a cano and a llttlo "billy-cock" hat , a pair of black trousers , and a gauze slilit , worn outside of them Is a resplendent spec- tnclo and ho has the air of being entirely conscious of It. From our standpoint , there Is the same halNdresbud look about the women of the poorer classes. The Negrito woman of the mountains may use only a' cloth extending from waist to Knee. Tlio Mungyan woman of Mlndoro may wear n contrivance of braided rattan , which Is oven moro ab- brovlated. Thebo garments do not snggesi the half-dregged. They are distinct. There Is no suggestion of European costume. It Is not so with the Filipino woman of Manila. Her garments arc neither dress nor native costume. Pieces of cloth cover her from the waist downward , by a system which not In frequently displays the leg as high as the knee joint. The shoulder and body cover ing varies in the number of articles ami detail of construction. All are cut some what low In the neck , and on a plan which lut. When it 's desired to use one of the bills the rubber is removed and the end of the first bill caught between the thumb ana forefinger of the right hand while the roll , Is held between the thumb and forefinger 5 of the left hand. Then the bill is quickly unwound , none of the othera ' Doing disturbed. , A great many men never carry a pocket- book. One reason for this Is that u well- worn purse more easily slips from the pocket , than a roll of bills. Then , again , the bulk of a pocketbook Is annoying ; It takes up too much room , especially where the pantaloons are made snug.S'hen pockutbooks are not , carried , a favorite receptacle Is the watch pocket. When this is used the bills are made up Into a little , hard bunch. Their presence Is always felt against the body. In a crowd there is no danger of losing them , and when traveling with any considerable sum this Is a safe depository. Some men have a fad of carrying a lot of now bills In an envelope that Is kept in ono of the Insldo pockets. Now and then a man Is found who keeps u few bills In every pocket. Ho goes on the theory that If ho Is robbed of one lot , a sulllclont amount will remain to last him until ho reaches home. Ho starts out feeling that ho Is going to bo- robbed and makes provision to meet every possible emergency. Ho usually makes thrt'o ! folds in his bills and tucks them away in the corners of 'his 7 > ocl < ots with oxtramo ' caie. Ho does not feel surprised if he finds , upon making an Inventory after arriving home , that a part of his funds has disap ' peared , us ho expected to bo robbed. Any number of men are found who keep only a ilttlo working capital In their trous ers pockets , the bulk of tholr funds being- concealed In broad , Hat wallets In the in- sldo pocket of their waistcoats. These bills nro always of largo denominations and folded once. When a man brings forth his reserve funds it will bo found that all the bills have a smooth , bright appearance. They have been with him so long that they are as Hat as a uheot from a letter press , Very tow men la this country carry coins. in purses. In England purses are common. The material Is generally pigskin , but un dressed kid Is also used extensively. The former have two compartments , ono for small gold coins and the other for silver. It Is sometimes amusing U ) watch a man with a little undressed kid bag pay his fare on thu street cars , especially If ho Isoar - Ink thick dogskin gloves. Only conductors with great pntliMico win watch the proceed ing with complacency. A woman can pick out live pennies from beneath a loll of bills In considerably less time than It takes the man with the kid purse to bring forth a nickel. One reason thin the kid purse Is not popular Is because it feels like the half of u small dumb-boll iiv the pocket , when fairly well Illled. In London it Is the ptoper thing to carry a pigskin , owing to the largo circulation of sovereigns. H la essential to keep the gold and silver separate - rate In order to avoid mlslnkes. There are coin cranks as well as paper money cranks. Some years ago there lived a llttlo round-faced man over In the Hack Hay who came Into the business dlstrliu every week day morning at precisely o'clock. In paying his fare ho always passed up u bright now nickel that looked as If It had como to him fresh from the mint. Whoreor how he got them was a mysU-ry to the conductor , but he finally decided ilia ; his customer was connected with some banking institution and that the now money was used to escape the chances of conlrwt'l- ing dlhwitw through 'the ' handling of money that had been In common use. There are any number of people who can not let go a now coin without experiencing a pang. They will hold on to a new half dollar until the last extremity. Then there are these who visit the subtreasury every few days and get a pocketful of new ID-cent liieces. They experience a special delight In passing them out , as they feel that those who receive them will wonder "who that man is. " Century of Progress In 1SOO , says the Pittsburg Post , women were not permitted in any country to con- tiol their property nor will it away at death ; to all Intents and purposes they did not own It. The legal existence of the wife was so merged In that of her husband that she was said to bo "dead in law. " Not only did ho control her property , collect and use her wages , select the food and clothing for herself and children , but to a very law extent he. controlled her "freedom of thought , speech and action. " If she dls- agreed with him , or In any way olfended him , he possessed the legal right , upheld by public opinion , to punish her , the courts In terfering only when the chastisement exceeded - ceeded the popular Idea In severity. All possessions passed into the hands of the husband at marriage. If a married woman worked for wages she could not legally collect - lect them , an they belonged to her husband. She could not make a will , uu or be aued. Few occupations beyond domestic service were open to women. No college in the world admitted women and the belief was universal that she was not capable of the highest branches of learning. Public schools were In many places closed to women. Ele mentary branches of education the Unco Rs were deemed all sulllclent for her. They were forbidden to speak or pray in the churches. The general trend of masculine thought was that It was unwomanly she bhould hold or advance opinions on serious questions , or seek Independence through natural or acquired gifts. Red Hair Now the Rage The peroxide blonde Is utterly out of date , Tiut any ono who argues feminine wisdom and reform from that is sadly mistaken. The women haven't changed their prin- clpkw , reports the Now York Sun. They have changed only the color of their hair. The varying shades of auburn and chestnut nr& the thing , and the bfeachcd are becoming the dyed. On the whole , It Is rather an im- irovement. Titian red , artistically con- coded , Isn't so aggressive as golden blonde. Then , too , it doesn't quarrel so loudly with complexions noxer Intended , by nature , to consort with golden tresses ; and it doesn't show the same Indiscreet tendency to turn ollvo green with age , which marked the lilondlno's hair. Of course , it is n nuisance for thoHO who were blondis to go In for- auburn ; but , after all , they nro bettor oft than the brunette who must Jump to Titian glory without any Intermediary stage. DaiU hair must bo bleached before It can bo colored auburn ; so the artificial blondes nn already half way along the road. That In the reward for having kept up with the prti- cession In the past. The blondes who are not alfectlng red hair are lapsing back to brunette. Some of them < lo it by the natural process , and have heads that look llko an Impressionist picture ot a paint manufacturer's sample card ; but there Is no excuse for that state of things unless ono's purse is at low ebb. The thing to do If ono's blondness Is artificial and ono -wants to return to dark hair Is to go to a first-class hairdresser and have him dye the bleached locks their original color. The now growth of hair next the head will naturally como In dark ; and In the course of tlmo the dyed hair can bo clipped away , Inch by inch , giving place to the genuine article , The auburn hair , like the blonde , requires constant encouragement. The color Is fairly permanent ; but the new growth of the roots of the hair should bo treated with the rod dye ut least once a month , and , preferably , once every two weeks. Some womi'ii try to attend to that phase of the dyeing for thorn- selves , but the results are usually disastrous , " * * ? " ' * . lyv't. ' ' < * * . " < N < > f . < ' .r7 v * * * . .U-rr , MIDWINTER C\hUNO HAT both , to the hair and the scalp , and it is far wiser ( to out rust the. earn of urllllclnlly col ored hair to an expert coilfenr. Hloaclilng and coloring unquestionably do affect the quality and vitality of thu hair. The hnlr- diessers acknowledge that , but insist 11ml the t damage Is very slight , If the work Is done scientifically and only the best prepara tions | used. "Hwigllng , hasty and cheap work will ruin any , hair , " bald a New York hairdresser , "but hair can 'be ' dyed so that the life and gloss , will rc-maln In it. It Is very hard to accomplish ; that result In the case of blench ing | , but that , too , can bo done by patience .mil skill. Thu red hair , HO popular Just now , is | hard to obtain In just the right shade , but it usually has a beautiful gloss and sheen. Wo have comparatively few calls for com plete coloring of the hair , save from theat rical people not nearly so many ns we had i live or ten years ago , but It would sur- prl.su you to know how many charming women como to us to have the first giay hairs colored. It is easy to do that without L Injnrli.g the hair in the least , and without I any possibility of the dye being noticeable. "For some reason or other 'possibly ' gen - eral nerve condition , or perhaps too frcqiiini shampooing , prematurely gray hair is be coming'inoio common each year. The women i hate it oven the most sensible of them , and 1 don't blame them. One very promi nent club woman in the city , who Is a model I INDOOR UOIJICB OF PINK SATIN. of Inttlllgcnco and btroiig mltidedno.sH , him a perfectly white look right In the middle ol her pompidour and comes here oveiy I'M ) weeks to have it doctored. That's a proof of her Intolllgtnieo , 1 say. What's the use of looking like a freak when one can avoid It ? Ono amusing thing In our business Is the number of nlco old ladles who como In with a guilty air and abk whether tluvie is aiiy way of making streaked gray 1mlr uni form gray or while. It Is a dangeious pioc- ess because of the very strong applications necessary ; and there have been a good many cnbes ( if bialn trouble resulting from the treatment. 1 do not euro to take the chances , but It Is easy to find hairdressers who are | OJ > H scrupulous and who will < mt explain the danger to a patron. " Living Fashion Models The winter season keeps winter styles In hats and wrapt ) thu uppermost subject In fashion discussions and our models this week bhow cholco oxanudes. Hero IH a midwinter calling hat from Paris. The felt is inauvo and so soft and satiny as to bo folded Into any and every shape , On thu right slilo Is a mass of shaded chrysanthemums and on the left a high rich bow of mauve velvet. Feather ciowns are among the late novelties - ties In Paris , ns Is demonstrated by the charming round hat photographed hero. The felt Is a pastello blue , having rather a wldo , oven brim , around which inoussullnc do solo of the same shade Is folded lightly. The crown Is made wholly of dollcato breast feathers In grey , to match the huge bow of castor vulvel that Is looped and knotted high on the left sldo. The Imported Indoor bodlco , or rather Jacket , Is of pink satin , with masses of rather heavy cream lace used for frills and rovers. The fiont Is of accordion ideated wlillo chllfon , having straps of narrow black U'lvot across the chiffon , held by tiny rhlnc- slono buckltH. Compressed Cork and Its Uses Cork , as everyone knows , Is ono of the bi'ht non-rondiiclnm of heat or sound. That It has not been moro widely used In building , says 'tho ' Scientific American , Is duo chiefly to thu dllllciilly of obtaining It In an unadulterated form. A product called coik tiling has recently been placed iipnn ( lie market , which Is made of what Is known lo the trade as "virgin cork , " ground , com- picssed and otherwise treated by a patented piorcHH , and which Is free from the cement and glue usually employed lo hold the par ticles together. Wo are informed that tiles made of this pnro , comprised cork form an admirable flooring , which , besides be ing noiseless , waterproof , warm and genii proof , Is capable of wlthtvtriiidliig hard imago. Hy vuryliiK the degree of compres sion and modifying the manufacturing pro cess slightly , HhcotH of cork different In color and density uro obtained , which , when Haw d and finished In the form of panels , can bo used for wainscoting aloud , or in ronnoution with cork lilo floors. Cork com pressed Into sheets and Hawed In the Hlx.o and thickness desired constitutes a very olllHcnt pulley covering. It Is said that a pulley covori'd or lagged with compressed cork will transmit fiom f > 0 to 00 per cent more power with the same tension of belt than one having only a smooth Iron surface ,