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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 8, 1899)
October 8. 18VO. O3U.ATI A 1LI..ITST1J.ATMM KM If. . Fashions for the Season of Frost NEW YORK , 'Oct. 6. Now let fall the frost from clear , cold heaven , for woman kind , by dint of honest shopping Industry , Is cloaked nnd mullled nnd furred In prepara tion for a fine show of Indifference to the keenest wind that ever blew. Those who are not provided with long plaid capes have given n hearty welcome to the redlngoto Idea and are , at an Instant's notice from the thermometer , ready to slip Into thesis heel and knee long wraps that are more bravely colored than any we have ever seen before. For example , It will only require one chilly snap now to bring out the rich Tyrlan purple cloth box-shaped overcoats , strapped at all seams and surmounted by collars of chinchilla ; added to these will come tunic-shaped "overalls , " as they are called , of sober gooeo gray beaver cloth , ihowlng Jehu capes lined In cheerful orange velvet , cuffed , collared and seam strapped with the same and cheek by jowl with them all are sure to bo seen the short coats or modore cloth , piped In the seams with locust green and further enriched by beauti ful green brouzo buttons. Slashes or strongly contrasting tones will be given by the new brown cloth short capes and coats , each with a collar displaying a da in "on , ripe plum or beetle green velvet , for so much or the character of a wrap now lies In the sort of neckpiece bestowed upon It. Miiriiulxc .11 uIVn. Altogether when skies nnd nature resolve themselves Into a uniform grayness of tone the women will throw their bright array nobly Into the breach and make the winter eyes , and the birds of the strangest species charmingly deck the autumn hat. There Is a strong preference demoted for tiny green parrots , and a tuft of velvet ( lowers out of which , with dazzllngly Jeweled eyes , a trop ical fowl looms showily , Is one of the finest Inspirations of the milliner's art. PlINlul VvllN. That which seems a vital part of every head dreas Just now Is a pastel veil. 'TIs nothing more than a width of web chiffon tinted In the volatile pink , blue or green known ar a pastel color , and then relieved by rtunil velvet dots and a eatln edge. These pastel veils are remarkably favorable to any complexion , casting a dim religious anil wholly becoming light over the features that the chiffon caressingly protects. To return to our first muttons , the wraps , let It he known that the newest rf the new ehort fur cents have silk sleeves , and a very young person can recall the winter whence this mode Is borrowed. A tight silk sleeve , ending In a couple of fur bands nt the wrist , is tbo modish model , and you are tempted by the furrier who sells you a crat to al most any sacrifice In order to raise the money for the purchase of an enhanced lace jabot te hang In the front of the seal , chin chilla or sable jacket you have bought. They make these Jabots of the ripest cream cluny , or old Irish , or Imitation antique guipure , or any heavy , beautifully-patterned needle work , and treat It with cut beads of tur quoise , steel , jet , jade , etc. , nnd pinches and tall points of fur. It Is a very lovely but very extravagant fashion , but It only goes to establish , with thrifty women , the FAWN AND WHITE WINTER HAT mildness blossom like a rose. They are belief In the charm of a lace ruff worn with going to do this not only with their wraps , any fur capo or coat. out by virtue also of their hats and mulls. Moio of the latter will be worn In velvet than In fur , that Is , If the stock laid In by the shopkeepeiB means anything. It Is nov elty that keeps the planet of fashion revolv ing profitably on Its axis , and wo are con templating with glee muffs made of divers rich-toned velvets , either puffed and beaded and carded nil over the cylindrical shaped bawl warmer , or Just puffed round the ends of the orifices where the hands outer and liero set thickly with velvet roses. The-o ire called marqulso muffs , and are slung round the neck by n scarf of chiffon that haj silk fringed ends , which ore Joined In a large and fluffy bow at the back of the wearer's neck. Nlurhlniiirt ! lllriln , Theru Is not now the least attempt made by the most heartless woman to defy In her hat decoratkos the rulings of Audubon so letles , In fact , shiuld Audubon come back to life In any smart milliner's parlor Just now ho would believe himself wandering In a hideous nightmare. Birds with top knots of Jeweled tulle , birds with f ur wings nnd three tails , fowls with parrot heads , gull wings nnd peacock tails and warblers having one eye ruby rod and another emerald emerald green , not to apeak of tiny creature. * with crystal bills two Inches long , would certainly make the famous naturalist stare. What , however , seems cntl ely distorted to the scientific mind is beautiful , and , best of all , becoming In the light of dr i-lorlar 'I'InIlrlmi of tliu Hi-nil. In a modest sort of a way bends are doIng - Ing a good work this fall in ornamenting pluses and fans , dancing hose and shopping bags. The approved shopper's friend Is made of very beautifully drefcsed doe or fawn skin , colored bronze blown or goo o gray , mounted on a silver lip , cut about live | Inches long by four broad and then prettily worked in steel and gun metal beads , A fringe of beads hangs ordinarily about three 1 sides of the small , wallot-shiipod affair nnd | it Is worn by a chain slung around the neck or clmtelninwlbo from the belt. Highly polished Hteel nnd dark-skinned gun metal 1 In crmblnatlon , form , by the way , one of ' the prnttirst types of neck chain used at ' pri'hent and three two metals In bead form 1 are strewn on the surface of line feathers to pioduco the most expensive card cases for winter nervlco. CorriM't Corm-lM. Uy the excessive length , not the meager circumference , of her waltt line Is the fashionable woman dlHttngulbhed from those wli o clothes are simply clothcH to them and nothing more. The straight busked ' corset , with heavy elastic Ireo supporters extending from the front of the stuy to the knee , Is the secret of the long waist when either a stout or a slender woman shows one i nnd It Is easier for a camti to accomplish the famous gymnastic trick mentioned In scripture than It Is for a woman to wear one of the gown of the period without a corn t bowing the two nil-Important features above mentioned. Even when swathed In one of the heel reaching redlngotes of the mode , a woman betrays to sharp fomltilnc eyes whether her stay bo of the proper shape or no While or black sateen Is what the ordinary daugh ter of Bvo wears In the way of corset ma terlal , though from Paris are sent over wonderful temptations to extravagance In the way of antique velvet stays In black and white. Of course , this lira as clcso and lltn as smoothly a u heavy bntln and it will actually wear n couple of years , or as long as the best whalebone nslsts the pres sure and distortion of long usage MAHY DEAN Living Fashion Models Autumn and winter stjles In the fashion nmrU are bringing out a variety of modes seldom seen In one and the same MXIS-OII This Is well Illustrated by the photographic patterns shown In The Dee's fashion pic tures. The charming winter lint Is an artistic combination of fawn nnd while , created by a famous Now York millinery house. The wide , straight brim Is Decked with chenllk polka dots In a lighter tone of fawn nnd the rather high crown Is swathed with velvet of n harmonizing shade. Theie Is a huge bow of rich , soft silk on the left side , held In place by a sparkling rhltiestono buckle , and from the center of the ullk spring four ex qulsltc fancy wings that give nn appearance of great style nnd elegance to the hat. Party and home evening frocks for little girls will be notable for their simplicity this season. The low-necked , short-sleeved frock pictured here Is a hortensla pink silk crepe1. having deep hem around tlu- bottom of the skirt that Is frilled Into n bolt of shirred silk of exactly the same rosy tint The llt- tlo bodice Is full nnd childlike , with short , puffed sleeves , but the whole Is made noticeable - able by Its milled and scalloped bertha , which Is of embroidered muslin edged with Valenciennes lace. The hat In which the model posed Is of damson-toned velvet , the brim a full doubled frill and crisp upland- Ing bow of tucked silk resting against the pleated crown. The hchool frock shown for winter wear Is of gcndarmo blue cloth , braided In black , with a. vest of tucked blue silk. Nothing moio neat , and at the same time more .serviceable , could be produced. Gorgeous Equipages that Carry Royalty The harness upon the horses which draw the carriages of the czarina of Russia arc made of red morocco , stitched with white. There nre twenty-two sets of harness , to make which 150 dozen mon-cco skins were required. The reins are of red sl'k and gold. An arched eagle's neck forms the ring through which the reins are passed and the manes are hidden under a broad Inzenge of fringes nnd red silk passomen- terle. The whips have red morocco handles , mounted In gilded bronze. Each horse , upin state occasions , wears a plume of white os trich feathers on Its head. The empress of Germany , upon super- extra occasions , rides In a g Men coach which has n history. She mode her en trance 'nto Berlin , upon the occasion of her marriage. In this splendid equipage , which was sent to crnvey her to the cap ital from the castle of Belle VUG , where all the brides of the Hohenz-llerns spend the night before their mnrrlage. Thn go'den orach wns drawn by eight coal black horses nnd heudcd by forty outriders In the old po tlllon | costume. The German royal carriages nre always horsed with the black Trakehners and It exoltps no end of comment In Berlin If the emperor , perchance , driven with a pair of grays or chestnuts. The Guchers are all grays nnd the emperor uses them princi pally when ho goes sleigh riding or drives tn the hunt. The grays , however , are not Irokcd upon with favor by loynl sub'pcts. ' "The Idea. " they exclaim , "nf driving Hun garian gravs like a pnrvenu ! His grand father would never have done such a thing. " The kaiser never drives n team. If ho ever tnkrn the ribbons ho uses n flnglo , qitlot how. HldlnK. however , Is a different story. He Is n perfect hTPcmnn nnd not only lookB well In the saddle , but Is always nt i en e. whpollng about and maneuvering with great skill. n YIHorln'N Stnlilrn. The gentleman's grandmother , the qupen of England , has earring to burn , with state pqulpncps galore. Wo all know that fT ( grand occasions , jubilees , royal wedding nnd ( the like , eight cream white horses are In , evidence , and each hTflo Is led by n scnrM-contpd , groom ; the harnrpo Is ni gilt tcrlng , as srnrlet nnd gold pinto can mnko It To be accurate , her mnjosty has thlrtv slnto , nnd semi-state carriage" , The mns' Interesting ; one Is the glnm cmeh built In 1701. It Is called the most irngnlflcont car rlage ever built. It ppoms that It has a l"t of i panels superbly palntpd and cnvoml with plate I glass. A cnnn'lRseur waw bold pn URh Ii nnco i to nsk If he mlcht purchase on" panel for which ho offered JCfi 000 nn offnr po- lltoly declined. Thp coach Itself cost 0 000. ( It Is nnw seldom taken out ; the Inst time the queen Ufcd It wnn nb lit twonty- five yearn ago , when she opened Parliament In fltnto , There are six gtnte conehps In scarlet nnd gilt ; thp rest of the carriages are painted dark blue , The coachmen have four llverlPi apiece. The state livery , which IB n m H of gold ; the epaulet livery , a little ICBH costly ; the scarlet livery and the plain black , for or- PARTY FROCK FOR LITTLE CURL , , diuury occasions. The queen's horses cost \ from 1DO to 250 each. Here Is an Rein of Interest for the Society for i the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. The queen will In future net allow the lulls of her horbcs to be docked ami she has given : : i gentle hint to the prince of Wales thai he ] follow her lead. At his recent auction sale of horses ] , sixty-six of his highness' horses ] brought their owner $ l0,000. ! Over i a thousand perbons attended this i sale and were entertained at luncheon by ; the prince. Ills stables cost him 180,000 n i year this does not Include , the cost of hln lacing ; Btablo. Tin- Donkey IN Honored. The royal family In England have been pleased | to recognize publicly the Importance of , the donkey. The Duchess of Fife , nt : i lucent show , distributed prizes to the most beautiful donkeys. The queen and many of her subjects ef fect the donkey cart. The Countess of Essex , formerly Miss Adcle. Grant , hns been photographed In a bath chair drawn by n donkey. Another one of our country women , the joung Duchess of Mnrlborough , rides in n coach almost loyal In appearance. The liveries the young duke chose when ho came Into his estate was that particular shade of scarlet dedicated to royalty , so he dually took up with a shade less vivid. Often only two footmen appear upon the Mnrlborough coach , although their graces are entitled to three. The state carriages in Spnln number four nil of the style known as Louis XIV. They are finished , one In Vernls Martin ; one In tortoise shell , one In ebony nnd ano In mother-of-pearl. The royal coat of arms Is emblazoned upon panels and encircled by diamonds. Young Alphonso XIII's latest photograph shows him mounted on his pony. The king ; has a good seat and la an attractive figure 1 on horseback. Ho reviews bin 700 boy sol- BRAIDED BLUB SCHOOL DRESS. dlurs with much dignity , siMled up u 111- poiij 1 , mid tiikui part In the drlllx. One of the Uito coaches ut-c-d by King II I urn boil and Queen Marguerite is entlieb coVIM ml with rciMiiiBbo silver. The Khedive of Egypt him U\PIMIH\ | > tastes I In huincss. litleoenlly placed an order for n set In London which cost $10.Dim The hucklus arc cf chased gtild and ilie pad cloths nre embrolduied with gold. The .M.i Imrnjuh I Dhulccp Singh and linukwnr of lla rod > a have paid much Inrgur HIIIIIH Tor I.on don-mndc harness. The Shah of Persia's coaclutj nio bnrb.irli In I splendor nnd the long tails of his Imr.-uM nro ' dyed crimson for six Indira at Iheli lips ' n Jealously guarded privilege of the ruler ' and his sons. Mra. McKlnley has lliloo vehicles fioin which to choose wheai she wnntH to tnke an nlrlng ' n broughnm , a landau and u cnhrlo let. They nro all fitted with rubber tires , They nro said to have cost Jr.,0iO. ( Oiein morocco Is much In evidence nnd nil tlic trimmings are of sliver hits , buckles , jih well as the ornaments of the iiurneh.i Five or six hoihcs are kept In the While Hoiisa slnlileo , to be iiHtd with thc.sf equipages. The Tailor's Cross There IH a story of an envious tailor cur rent wltn the French peasantry , relates Youth's Ci mpanlon. He fancied that his neighbor , who received n pornlui for the loss of nn arm Incurred while fighting for his country , was better off than h.iiHclf. B tli men went to pay their rent < n the snmc day "That's n lucky man , " nalil the tnllor to the landlord. "He gets well paid for his arm. " "But who would be willing to part with nn arm , even If ho were paid for It ? " said the landlord. "I would , " declared Iho tnllor , "You ! " cried Iho landlord. "Why , mini you wouldn't bo willing to boar anything of the sort , no matter how much you were paid for It. " "I wish someone would try mo , " "Now , see hero , " said the landlord , who hnd studied human nature , "I'll tell you what , If you'll wenr oven HO much n a chnlktnnrk on your back I'll remit y ur rent ; IH long HII you wear It on ycur crnt HO It can bo seen , the condlllrn being that you toll no onn whv It Is there. " "Agreed , " said Iho tailor , eagerly. "That's on enB.V wny to pay rout ! " So the chnlkmnrk In the form of n cross wrw made on the bnpk of his c-at and the dpllghtPd tailor Rallied forlh upon ( h ° street Strangers nnd acritialntaneeii hnllcd him to loll him of the mark on his back. Jokes wore inudo nt his expense , children Inughed nnd pointed nt him , nnd his wife annoyed him with oupstlotiH , and wl'h eonjuga' ' famil iarity told him ho was n fnrl. The usually amiable mnn grew mirly nnd morose ; ho Hhunned mpn. women and children nnd fre quented back strnpts. Before the wpek was up the tnllor found himself embroiled In a quarrel with his bpst friend , h's ' wife hnd thrpntPPPd tn leave hl hoii o , and ho con slderpd himself mlnprnblp nnd Hl-uited. Finally one nleht lip look ' ff bis c-nt nnd rubbed nut the plmlkrnark nnd aid : "There ! I would not wear that props nn my hick an other week , no , not If I could have nil the money there Is In Paris ! "