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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 9, 1899)
July 0 , 1S01) ) . OMAHA ILLUSTHATED BEE. - Midsummer Fads and Fashions NEW YORK , July 7. There Is no sta- tblllty in the extremes of fashion , and al ready women arc sheering gradually off from the rocks and pitfalls to beauty that lie In the path of the very close-fitting skirt and the beautiful but Impossible lace frock. Lace Is as keenly loved as ever , for evenIng - Ing gowns particularly , but It Is lavished ' ns a trimming on n basis of organdie , em broidered muslin and the over lovely lib erty satin. The extreme of smartness and luxurious loveliness lor an evening toilet Is achieved by the painted imislln dress , served up with a delectable sauce of rare Duchesse , Breton , or even blonde lace ; the other ex- ' tronio of sweet shepherdess-like simplicity Is attained by that blue white India muslin which is ns soft ns chiffon , and Is treated with hand-worked lozengo-slmped dota , ench set In a tiny circle. The debutantes Tills arrangement , by the way , is n great Improvement on the two solid golden man acles that \NO knew two decades ago. Itiiyul Oiirlvr Him- . Very latest among the discoveries of an effective anil popular evening color for silk or satin Is garter blue. Tills Is the exact tint of the broad blue ribbon that Queen Victoria wears when she dons the famous older , and the belles who nro not debutantes and the belles who arc handsome matrons wear the garter blue In trained gowns that ere besprinkled with judicious seed pearl embroidery. A very regal sort of costume Is indicated In ono of the Illustrations this week , and tills Is a garter blue satin cut with an ample train. In front a breadth Is slit open to the knees to show an under- dress of white upon which a curtain of pale blue chlifon falls , and a foot trimming of t WRAP OP WHITE SATIN AND BLACK CHIFFON. of this summer ( and there are plenty of smart girls who have accepted the new notion of. coming out at their parents' or friends' country houses ) will dance their first formal dance in dresses of this de scription , showing not a tin cad of lace , but all the flounces and edges everywhere com pleted with deep leafpolnt pinking , care fully and to tell the truth , most expensively , buttonholed every Inch by hand. The debut trousseaux of fair Miss Crosby and Mrs. Lovl Morton's youngest daughter are won ders of the finest needlework , with lace only * * occasionally appearing , and all the Httlo muslin dresses are cut with small trains and short sleeves , for if you have pretty arms , prepare to show them now. That boon of the tbln woman , the lace or full wrinkled transparent eleovo to the wrist , Is about to be snatched from her , and * ft study In soft frills and puffs on the shoul der only remains. Very young Indies have given motlvo power to a possible bangle craze by winding round their white fore arms fine gold chains strung with many varieties of souvenirs , trinkets , little gold pigs and bunnies and cats' heads , which , with Jeweled hubs and email dried ( lowers in crystal cases , Is the typo of popular trlllo and our latest recruit to the foreign nobil ity. ity.Miss Miss Julia Grant has made fashionable again the Catacuzeno bracelet. When the distinguished mother of the young prlnco to whom Miss Grant will plight her troth was , some twenty odd years ago , In America , Bho were golden bands on her arm and fore arm connected by chains , and now the pretty custom is to wear a thread of pearls Oi emeralds below the elbow , n very fine circle of diamonds near the shoulder , and unite the circles by hair fine chains of gold , t punctuated at Intervals with small Jewels , mingled blue and white ostrich tips appears na a ruche. A typical cloak of the season Is sketched with this pearl embroidered gown. It is a circular of white satin , its edges shaped In large shallow scallops edged with dark brown marabout and a deep frill of lace. A luod that falls from the neck of the cloak Is made all of lace and brown marabout. Such arc some of the splendors of our mer chant princesses. Well open , in a simple curve , Is the proper shaping , back and front , for an even ing dress body , and in the building of bod- icca nothing is more Justly popular with the slim women ttian the front that Is drawn in full horizontal wrinkles across the bust. Of course , very soft satin and pliable muslins rr.Iy nro adapted to this style and the finish for the fullness Is three rosettes of gradu ated size , or three smart clusters of blos soms fastened ono at the waist , ono at the bust and ono on the left shoulder. Evidently every effort is being made to replace , by some equally serviceable device , the pouched bodlco front that women almost refuse to relinquish. A riKfwn I" < lie Hair. A fan-tailed pigeon Is what you should wear In your hair at the country dances. It is a decoration easily secured by the sim ple method of tying n scarf of perfectly fresh , crisp , whlto tulle in a largo wide- winged bow and fastening it at any point you please in your hair by aid of n Jowol- lieaded hatpin. In the evening also every woman who keeps abreast with the mode pins her little fan to her bolt to the right sldo. First she makes a small , perfectly fiat satin ribbon rosctto with n bright Imitation gem In its center and from this beneath hangs a four-inch long strap of ribbon , on tiie end of which Is fastened a gold safety slip ring. The ring , of course , secures the fan when the wearer duos not need It , and It Is perfectly easily detached from the ring when eho does. For the undoing of the woman who spent nearly all her year's Income UNO months ago for proper spring plumage , the milliners nro bringing out their midsummer crop of hats. They have a unique and lovely thing christened Juliet in honor of Miss Maud Adams , although It has llttlo outward and visible significance with the tempest uous young wlfo of Homco. From n crown and wide brim of that sweet now fabric known ns open leghorn , which looks like line straw Ince , runs a garnishment of tinted grain , from which nt some point springs a cluster of broad and narrow muslin wings so painted as to simulate those of butterllles. The leghorn brim Is twisted and 'bent ' to harmonize with the lines of any face , and'then from thu rear full tulle strings come down to cross under the chin , pass again to the back of the neck and there tie In a vast and picturesque bow , The Juliet has penetrated many wardrobes by sheer force of nlry beauty and Us In Ilucnce has been to relegate ninny hat and bonnet strings to the rear of the head , where the lo. ps and ends usually form a most charming setting for a fair , rosy face Very nearly simultaneous with the Juliet was the advent of the striped veil , to which women are , strangely enough , taking very kindly. At first glance these masques of white and black , with their fine satin or thread lines crossing the thin fabric at In tervals of an Inch , would scent more deadly In their Inlluenco on eyes than the objee lon- able dot ; In reality , the line Is n > > more do structlvo than the close-set velvet periods , and yet , more curiously still , quite ns be coming to most faces. MAUY DEAN. Living Fashion iModels The principal fashion model this week represents an engaging llttlo wrap of whlto satin and black chiffon , with sparkling bands of Jet outlining graceful bowkuots en the satin. It Is designed for wear over muslin and lace evening gowns and In spite of Its frivolous appearance gives sufficient use for warmth In really cold weather. It is cut with double capes , a V front and has stole ends , falling to thu hem In front. Whlto taffeta ribbons , one and a half Inches in length , tic over the bust and hang mixed with > a narrow lace barb. The attractive llttlo frock for a young girl from 10 to 14 years of ago Is of apricot- colored glace silk , having a plain skirt fin ished with a 'hem , and Is gathered full nt the belt. A gamp of fine French batiste Is worn with It and the full baby waist is finished around the shoulders with a frill of heavy cream-tinted needlework. Black velvet ribbon is twisted around the belt and tied in a smart 'bow ' on the left side. The hat of coarsely woven cream straw Is charm ingly dressed with a big mixed bow of apricot-colored silk and black velvet. Another plate shows an exquisite frock that illustrates once more how silk has been superseded by grenadine this summer. The model hero photographed Is of heliotrope gauze grenadine , perpendicularly lined with satin stripes of a darker shade. Over this Is an Intricate pattern simulating white lace that forms Innumerable bowknots. The gauze is hung over a white silk slip and the hem and edges of the open bodice are finished with a quilling of heliotrope muslin. The gamp Is of whlto llsse , that appears again in the sleeves , and there Is a collar of grenadine. Veils in Oriental Fashion Fashion , wlio Is always navlng a quiet sort of n wrestling match with her bold rival , Comfort , has been victorious tills sea son , and now declares boldly that In hrr train she will have no more sunburnt , tanned or freckled faces. She has endured them long enough. Her adherents nlso arc beginning to see the absurdity of allowing the heat of a summer's day to vanquish all the whiteness and softnesb that has been procured to the skin by Infinite care and attention during the winter. Veils nro undoubtedly a nuisance when on the golf field , wheeling or yachting , where clear , unobstructed vision Is neces sary. In fact , as long as they Interfered with the sight they were imposlblo. This year , however , there Is n now way of wearIng - Ing them which makes them a trifle more bearable , and leaves the eyes uncovered. GRENADINE FROCK , The lower solvnKu of the \ull Is first arranged loosely about the shoulders and pinned securely nt the back of the nrck. The veil la then taken up over the face and thu uppoi selvage drawn t'gMly ' across the bridge of the nose ana nn.ltr the eyes to the back of the head. Hy this arrange ment , the forehead and eyes nro all of the face that nro left exposed to the sun ; and the brim of the hat should bo such ns to sufficiently protect them , llrown tisane , or chiffon veils appear to bo the ones most often chosen for this purpose ; the black ones are really too grew some and hldonus. Sometimes a whlto veil Is lined tu cover the face and a brown ono is loosely dropped over from the brim of the hat to do nwa > with the unpleasant glnto of the sun's rays upon the white veil It U snld on good APRICOT COLORED GLACE SILK. authority that the old-fashioned green veils will also bo worn In this way during the summer. Ono unaccustomed to seeing veils worn In this fashion is apt to bo rather as tonished , at first , by the Egyptian-like , curious effect it gives to the whole figure. The scheme for protecting the face , fliow- over , is really a good one. When the veil is not too thick and especially when It Is worn by a woman with line eyes it is also not without a subtle amount of at traction. Hail to Automobile Girl The summer girl of this season Is thu "nu- Umobllc girl. " Twenty years ago the summer girl went in f r croquet. Then came a short spoil of archery. Then there was a rage for tennis. Then , cnmo the bicycle , followed by goff , which has had a steady and somewhat ro- markablu growth In popularity. Now It Is golf and the automobile. When not engaged nt golf this summer you will find the typical girl off somewhere on her "auto. " She has set out to solve thu mysteries of this now vehicle and you maybe bo sure that she will succeed , for the aver age American girl Is both curious and per sistent. It has been said that the automo bile is not a fad , yet In a social sense It Is , and , what is more , it Is a Parisian fad. Thu French are far ahead of us in the inannfac turo of automobiles , and the latest fashions In self-propelling carriages emanate from the French capital. It is a very expensive luxury , this fashion able automobile , Involving an cxpcndituro of several thousand dollars. Perhaps that Is why the summer girl do luxe has adopted It. Her handsome electric Victoria with Its flamIng - Ing red broadcloth finings and silver trap pings will cost more than the Interest nn her pa's latest Investment In dividend-paying ing securities. And her victoria Is but ono of the nutoinobllcs she will own If she Is a young person of wealth and fashion , The gorgeous gowns she \vill wear when managing levers and brakes and pedals and buttons will bo equally ns elaborate ns hur ball gowns ; for the nutnmobli'e girl dresses In srarlct scarlet and black nnrt scarlet and white. The automobiles will revolutionize dress nt Newport this summer. For the first time In years picturesque , Huffy Paris riding costumes will take the place of smart , stiff English tailor styles. The scarlet toilet will push the tnn covert coat to the wall. It will double the cost of the summer girl's ward robe. Even among Newport millionaires , therefore , automobiles will not bo distrib uted broadcast without a few minutes' de liberation. Among the happy possessors of these new machines Is Mrs. Stuyvesani fish , Mrs. Her mann OolrlcliH , Mrs. Harry Payne Whitney , the Misses Gerry and young Mrs. Wllllo K , Vandorbllt , Jr. Hut the automobile Is moro than a play thing. It Is a powerful factor In society. It has not only revolutionized dress for riding , but there Is already a demand for automobile junult ) . In gold and slhur and RUII muui the tiny electric cab , nmiuuHit and vlctuti * are leproducrd for scarf pins , watch rh.itnu buckles and lockets. Automobile led will bo thu most fashion able color for the summer season. Autom bile parties will be the most fashionable dl \erslon at the seashore and at mountain re sorts where the loads me good. As to the machines themselves , they cost nu > where from Jl.fiOO to ! 2.ooo , and as much morn ns jou may rare to spend in the w j of gorgeous decoration. Aery luuuls..mr runab , ut orIclorla , ho\\e\or. may be oh tallied for f 1,000 and when It la cunsldoied that the now machine may be operated with out the expense of hut sea and Ihcry ohargoM the eost Is not so great after all. IIow Success is Won ii. In Janunr > , 1SSS , over sixteen jo.irs ago. Moiltz Meyer went to Now Yoik and on K.igod the services of A. Mnndolberg as foreman of the Max Mo > or * Urn. watch nuiKlng department , which position he held with them for lour years , after which ho was made general manager and diamond expel t and lm > or for the firm , lie 10 nmlnod In this capacity with die firm until Ii wont rut of business In 1MK1 , when ho leased the same corner and stalled lu busi ness for himself. During the panic whluli followed , In upllo of the failure of numerous bunks and sioros. Mr. Mandolborg , by giving careful at tention to his business and accommodating his many customers , succeeded In Imli'dliig up an establishment that Is today one of the largest west of Chicago. Onfy last fall Mr. Miindulboig found thiit ho was unable- do the volume of business > mlng to his store lu the Hlngfo room he then occupied , so that he added another room , putting In entirely ue\\ fixtures all beautifully enameled In white and gold Thus he has grown from his stock of Jfi.OUU to a stock of JKO.OOO , with one of the bust appointed and most attractive Jewelry stuioH in this city. It Is not an uncommon thing for .Mr Mandelborg to show In his Farnain stroel nhow window ? 2i,000 [ wortn of diamonds at one lime. These beautiful exhibits have become an nllractlvo feature of the store Aside from diamonds ho cariles a huge line of cut glass , wnlchofl , silverware , mis cellaneous Jewelry and art stationery. Mr. Mandclburg has lately secured the services of II. Uorrls , formerly associated with Spauldlng of Chicago , who gives liU ontlre attention to the stationery engraving department , doing all of the work In thn Omaha store. Including the copper plate , dye work , stamping and printing. In charge of the watch repairing department Is Fred Woodmansoo , late of Now York , who dcvoloi his time to this branch of the work being an expert Mr. Mandulburg never hodltat'JB to take thu most dllllcult or complicated watches or French clocks for repair , al ways guaranteeing satisfaction. As a sales man Mr. Charles Wnodnmnseo has won A. MANDELBERO. many friends since coming lo Omaha by his pleasing way of showing goods lo purchaser and visitor alike. In the basement a corps of manufacturing Jowolurs and diamond sellers are at work , making It possible to glvo the bust survlco In every department of this popular Jewelry store. Mr. Mandclburg remarked the other day that In all the years he had been In busi ness not ono person could say that ho had misrepresented anything ho hail over sold , It has been one of his business rules Mover to misrepresent a slnglo article and always to mark everything In plain figures , so that a chllil Is an Hiiro of gutting thu Maine price as his parents. It is nut necessary for the purchaser to know the value of the article here , as ho is told frankly Just what it is worth. The Greater America Exposition visitors should not fall to visit this progicss Ivo Juwolry store. Blossoms Detroit Journal : In her heart Maude wn reluctant to accept the hand and heart of the courtl'y Marmaduko , She had her mis givings. "That rum blosbom on the end of your HOBO ! " shu protested , with a shiver. Marmaduku smiled reassuringly down into her great , anxious oyes. "Ily tholr frulls yo shall know thorn , " ha whispered , "and not , my beloved , by tholr blossoms ! " Ah , love would find n way.