TITE OMAHA DAILY BEE : SITXDAY , OCTOBEtt 23 , 1808.
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THE DOMAIN
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Crime for I'lowcri.
KD\V' YORK , Oct. 20 , Perhaps If any
* 'the vista o'
woman will look back through
fashion ( or the last Qvo years she will be In
terested to observe what a successful war
fare } she has waged In defense of the plalr
skirl , This garment ) has gone through many
phases In many seasons. It has been gored
and ungorcd to the last extremity , severely
plain as a habit , set In the largeat folds
and In the closest of gathers. It has been
garnished with braids , ribbons und Jets ; a
deadly onslaught of ruffles attacked It at one
tlmo and fearful rumors of overdresses
darkened the air , but in splto of ovorytblnc
it has at no period lost Its character of a
plain skirt ) . The modlslca have railed
against Its severity , but In all these chnng-
'Ing seasons they have been unable to effecl
anything lllto a genuine revolution. The car.
rlago skirt , It Is true , has a train" , th6 walk
ing skirt ) swoops the street and Is cut so
tight from hip to knee that wo seem to hav
returned to the barburlsru .of the old-fash
ioned tie back ; still , the plain skirt remain
practically .Intact and for small mercies we
should bo' duly thankful.
A cpuplo of. , weeks since the ' 'gadllghted ,
BhowVooras of the costume Importer's' shops
ft ere filled with customers who , by special
invitation , had dropped In to look over the
French novelties In evening dresses , nnd
there again the painfully close tight skirt
reigned all supreme. Save in this single , .o-
fcct the Parisian novelties commanded sin
cere praise , without Inspiring awe over any
trlklngt novelties. Tucklngs , pleating , gauf-
fcrlngs and gauglns showed their familiar
wrinkles frequently ; there were panels of
loco nnd passamenterle , more exquisite ap
plique .work , ribbon work and strange but
true , there was plenty of bright sequin dec
oration. Jet appears to score very high In
French estimation Ju3t now , and a charming
light weight silk called molro mcssallno
shardd' the honors with more substantial
fabrics , while a nice effect In dinner drutaeu
was achieved by the use of palo tinted satin
face'dCloth. .
The observer carried away with her Im
pressions of several toilets that might be
easily called keynotes of fashion. There was
o palb green faced cloth , cut'so close In the
eklrt It was u marvel how any Wearer could
move In It , and decorated with 'trile love-
knots done in black lute string ribbon. It
4ia < } a. pointed bertha of heavy cream lace ,
studded with Jets and eiripralda , falling
nbout the shoulders , nnd in the hair was sot
n bow of wired black velvet ribbon as big as
the arms of . : mlnlaturo Dutch windmill. '
Wny the Whirl Illoirn.
The second keynote , for a youngish woman ,
was 'plainly struck In a black grenadine that
was a fluff of flounces from shoulders to horn ,
broken only by a belt of naming rose col
ored 'velvet and a giant bow of the same
color of chiffon , caught through a narrow
buckle of coral and fastened on the left
breast , up near the shoulder. Every flounce
of grenadine bore an edging of Jet and'Up
In the hair was perched a monster pompon
of rosy chiffon.
Another gown that was calculated to
cieate-ha\oc In the feminine heart seemed
to bo , th.Q first of a species of which we are
likely to see many copies later on. It Is a
tender. . .blue molro , cut with a glorious train ,
bolted , , with coral pink passamenterle ,
flounced tlellcatcly with a gauze of the same
tone and- then entirely veiled' ' from" shoulder
to foot In white silk point esprit. .Thei.vell- .
ing was. gathered in rather fujr Just under
the 'trimming nbout the shoulders of the
bodldo"nnd at back and front floated down
unconflncd to the floor. . , „ ' {
Fantastic bows , mysterious ruffles and col
lars made of such nlry fripperies as tulle ,
chlffona and rose petals form a very 1m-
nortant part of the evening stock In beauty.
GOWN OF PUnPLK VELVE'
AND WHITE SATIN.
There Is apparently an Inclination , promls
Ing to develop later the proportions of
craze , for wearing flowers both "real an
artificial : Some of the foremost leaders c
society ; have adopted the fancy of never ap
pcaring in public unless adorned by som
favorite and never varied blossom. Sraai
vomen will be recognized rater at opera c
theater by the particular rose , violet o
orchid worn. Jimt as marked , as this ec
centrlclty is that of the women who hav
adopted the lofty Medici collar. Its use wit
cvcnlnK dresses is certainly a graceful addl
lion and some of them are lined with ma'tc
rials of surprising richness. , ,
KvcnliiK Wrapx.
And now to Bay something on wrapi
Evening wraps this season , to He adequate )
described , require an unusually enthusiast !
vocabulary. They are at once gorgeous an
fantastic. We have been going stcadll
backwards to thb early Victorian period <
late and the elegant evening cape Is scarce !
jnoro than a slavish copy of the quaint bi
often'sadly unbecoming pelerines and pale
tots of Queen Vic's young days. Mocler
THE IMPERIAL HAIR
RE6ENERATO
For Grny or Hlcnclicil Hair
Is tha only preparation befor
the public toddy that restore
Grny Hair to its original coloi
ot * "tru > t gives to Bleached Hal
that unif rm shade and luslr
Without in Be me manner injur
itig the sculp , the hall * op the qer
er if health.
Seven colors cover nil shades. Price Jl.
and" thrco times the amount $3.00.
Bole Manufacturers and Put-niece.
Imperial Chemical Sl'f'B. Co. , 292 rif
Avc , N. Y. for sale In Omaha by nic
urd3tm , Drug Co
Shernmu & McConnell Drue Co.
Applied by dl Ilulr Dr aacni. 1513 Dodge
art hag done something" however , toward the
Improvement of these models , while modern
luxury has' ' enriched them with ! a profusion
of tasteful ornament.
A fair specimen of the sort of thing 'a '
great lady may w sar this winter to the
opera is a capo cloak of ivorywhite , satin ,
falling to the heels and most artistically
gauged nnd trimmed with two enormous
flounces of accordion pleated chiffon , one
pink and one blue , anil interspersed nt In
tervals of half a foot with clusters of sable
tails. Endless frills ot pink , blue and whlto
chiffon lined the garment , while a great
square collar of turquolso blue chiffon
reared up about the cars. Hanging ends
of thick blue chenille tied 'this wrap under
.ho chin nnd then about the waist , wcnt A
belt of snblei two Inches wide. This lightly
gathered In the fulness of the capo In the
middle and under a Jeweled clasp the eab'le
ends were drawn.
Dunn nnil Fnnn.
So much 'for what Is costly. Less ex
travagant women wear of an evening at
tractive Monte Carlo capes made of satin
Ive , is the third costume of finely pleated
lilac chiffon over fi pettlcoant ot apple green I
silk. A deeper shade of. lilac , almost violet I
purple silk , , extends In apron shape over the
front of the , skirt and. is charmingly em
broidered in fine steel beads , describing del
icate urentha nbout medallions ot white
lace , through which the green silk under-
petticoat chows. A similar .scheme ot color
and decoration Is carried out on the body
of this admirable dinner dress.
A dinner toilet or purple velvet or whlto
catln Is suitable for a nunturcd matron and
Is made sufficiently brilliant by a liberal
use of spangled net and butterfly embroid
ery on the gleaming satin ground.
A violet chiffon In two happily contrastIng -
Ing shades and a pink shirred chlffnn , olab-
orntrlv trlmmod with lace and flowers , are
or cloth and fastened under the chin wilt
a bouquet of velvet roses. When the cap <
Is doffed at opera or ball a boa Is otter
assumed and women who know how t (
make taste and economy go hand in hant
wear short boas made of pink or blue tull <
ind downy with bis black or white chcnllli
dots. Expensive tulle boas show the tull <
accordion pleated and the raw edges finlshec
with the fine white furl of ostrich feathers
stripped from the spine and applied to thi
tulle by aomo means known only to Parlsla :
manufacturers. c'
La t year's ermine and whlto fox- capes
-an bo'tnado ns fjmart as possible by sloping
off thalr fronts and whipping on the lnsld
edges wide full flouncca of chiffon or rich
-e.al lace. There , by the way , Is another ol
: h'e keynotes bt the season. That is trim-
nlng furs with masses of lace. Dark nm'
Mght fur coats and capes are calling foi
ho highest nnd most reckless bidders , atnet
modest purses stand no shadow of a chance
with the seal , sable and broad tail coat ;
that ! have revers , collar linings , vests ani !
axterlor appliques of the costliest hand'
made lace.
Big fans will not bo carried for a seasor
ret , so that ) the wisest purchase to bo made
\a \ a dear little necDtnler fan. It reallj
fa not ) but two inches and a half long and
't can most economically be- made of a < brlghl
blocaded or chined silk with pearl sticks
The gay flowering of the silk shows on boll :
tildes uind a genuinely helpful breeze can bt
raised by one of them. Modish women carr >
their fans still slung about the neck by t
long chain of false pearls or coral beads
and the luxurious fan consists of ten tSilt
sticks of choice blonde shall , beautifully In
laid and strung together by a blue ribbon
This is also of the Kocamler size.
Some Important HtcctcraH.
No Insignificant amount of consldcratlot
this autumn has been devoted vo the etcet
eras of dress. All the best tailor skirts , foi
Instance , nre hung on very narrow clastic
silk ribbons that stretch to cnclrclo th <
waist. A Jute material has been brought
out for the greater protection of the dres :
lienis where they touch the ground. Olov (
spring fastenings close the 'placket holes it
two places , and by rendering wnterproof'th'a '
part of the basque lining- that fits under thi
arm clumsy dress shields are In mnn'y in
stances done- away with. Belt buckles havi
gone 'the way of all good fashions and .
woman this fall would as soon think o
girding herself with a rope ns with a nar
row gross-grain ribbon band or a , cestus o
Jcwela. About her slender clrcumferenc
passes a ribbon , five to eight inches wide
nnd Its either end pleated in to fasten t
the two halves of a. metal clasp that ar
long nnd narrow. The wide ribbon draws li
close fine folds abouB the waist nnd th
clasp In its Derby silver or Burmese gold
richly wrought , but rarely sot with Jowclt
Dally the ribbons themselves Increase li
ornament. They have r.uffied and volve
edges and the lasl mentioned decoration I
the smartest. They show silk dota or circle
of open work and Inserts of lace and It 1
notlcenbie that sash ribbons have gone dowi
on the bargain counter. Where ribbon bow
tfe nn evening cape , float from a ball-drcs
shoulder , or otherwise cast long ends to th
breeze , those ends nre most elaborate !
trimmed. There nro series of tiny chlffo :
ruffles set on , or lace appllqued , or silk dot
freely sprinkled and the consequence 1
pretty and fluffy to a degree. '
IlliiHtrutlotiH of Knnliloui.
A duet in silk muslin nnd chined silk I
artfully manifested In ono of the thre
grouped gowns. This has Us front nnd bed
made wholly of bright peach pink musllc
air gracefully puckered in double gauging
that describe elongated lines on skirt an
waist. The handsome train is white moire
messallne , chined In bouquets of small scarlet
lot roses , n velvet knot of which Is fastcnc
In the hair. Cadogan .elecvcs of muslin fa !
low on the arm and over either shoulder ru
small straps covered with scarlet leaves CD
from velvet.
A not less Interesting gown shows In tb
skirt throa falling panniers of Jcttcr lac
over a palo yellow silk petticoat. Sere
day the French dressmakers say those pan
nlera will be looped up and grandly bunchc
out on the hips , after Iho eighteenth centur
mode , but for the present they hang tti
and graceful. The distinguishing featui
of the bodice Is the vast collar rising behln
the bead and made ot rudlea of Jetted lac
on a wire frame.
Moro simple , but none the lets nttrac
both rich and tasteful costumes for a youth
ful bello. MAUY DDAN.
1VEAIUXG OK TI1I3 CUE UN.
Cmcrnld .TevrelN In Great Pnvor lit tlic
FaHliloiialilc Worlil.
There is no doubt about It that green
stones head the list this season of fashiona
ble Jewels , though the combination of tur
quoise and diamonds is Just as popular as
ver. Emeralds , of course , come first In the
catalogue.- and all the prominent American
Jewelers are sending over their agents to
buy what they can at the sale of the late
empress of Austria's effects. The 'contents
of her casket are to bo disposed of cora , and
as she" possessed some of the flnset emer
alds in Europe , this sale falls most-'oppor-
tunely. Among her stones are also one or
two fine green diamonds and green sapphires
that would bring a top price in the United
States , -where there are few of these rare
gems , and these are very email.
The revival of Interest In green stones haa
prominently brought forward the peridot ,
which la really the Indian chiyeolite , and
is a clear , deep leaf-green In color , nhow-
Ing almost yellow beside the emerald , which
13 hlulijb. In tone. A handsome peridot is
difficult 'to como by In this day , when the
art of cutting them Is almost lost , and a
good specimen therefore fetches quite as
high a price as a nice emerald , while many
women prefer their moro becoming yellow
green color.
Both the emeralds and peridotc nro set
off with diamonds , or on the newest brace
lets , brooches and watches an emerald Is
partly sunk In a bed of well-matche3 green
enamel , and then the enamel Is encircled in
diamonds.
Women who cannot qulto afford emeralds
or peridots nnd yet wish to share in this
universal wearing of the green have made
very fashionable both the chryeopraso and
beryl. These are classed as semi-precious
atones and are palely green , like the waters
of the great lakes , or diluted creme-dc-
mcnthe. Good taste has eettled It that
neither "of these delicately tinctured gems
shall be sot In diamonds , for the dazzle ol
the more brilliant stone drinks up the faint
pretty color of the central setting. Instead ,
bcryte are often encircled In pearls and the
chryaopraso set perfectly plainly In gold
and the effect 1s studied , but very pretty.
While choosing green as the autumn color ,
the fashionable women have been also busy
establishing some ether styles In Jewelry.
Fur Instance , all the gate-topped bag purses
have been deliberately forgotten tn behalf of
small square gold and silver shekel portc-
monnales. They are pretty trifles , square In
shape , not larger than the palm of the hand ,
and have A fold over the flap pieces of bright
metal linked together , each bit of metal
most exquisitely decorated In Imitation of
the stamp on the ancient Hebrew Coin. Fine
Bold bars nt the side hold the web of gold
In the form of a equaro pocket and the
flap-over buttons down with a Jewel. By a
very long chain this change purse is slung
about the nock. This square shape for small
tjursca Is BO popular that eouio beautiful
specimens are made of richly embossed
leather , that Is by some means colored nnd
then has tiny Jewels set here nnd there amid
the raised pattern.
Chatelaines waver In nnd out of fashion
with nil manner of queer additions to and
curtailments of their pendant furniture. A
bag nnd a mirror is about all the tasteful
woman will wear hanging from her belt
now. The bag Is the shape of the purse de
scribed above , only n , trifle larger and of
either metal or leather. The mirror Is a
disk of marvclously polished silver or steel ,
circular and nearly as big as the footof a
? lnss goblet. It ) is usually backed with gold
ir silver nnd on this back Is set one largo
ewel , preferably nn emerald. In the first
instance , these gorgeous utensils were de
igned for use when calling or theater-going
ind when transit from house to house is
nado in a carriage , but they gllcter by the
tldo of many a charmingly dressed pedes
trian in these busy shopping days.
Jeweled combs are almost lelics of the
past , chaplets nnd hair wreaths having so
largely taken their place , but delicate diamond
mend ornaments , set on shell 'prongs , are
-it'lll In evidence. For Instance , nothing could
bo moro lovely than a tuft of fuchsia blos
soms In brilliants or a bead of clematis sim
ulated by silver wires encrusted with diamond
mend dust. Among the pretty throat orna
ments Is a very harrow , perfectly flexible
ribbon of diamonds that passes about the
base of the neck and fastens under the chin
by a small , neat bow knot. Sometimes the
ribbon Is made of black enamel , edged with
diamonds , nnd again a black velvet bebo
A FROCK OF VIOLET CHIFFON IN TWC
SHADES.
ribbon Is drawn about the throat and made
fast in front by a tiny bow knot pin of dia
monds. Such a Jeweled device Is supposed
to be suitable for debutantes , while the
handsomest .of the elaborate novelties is ol
three large .linked rings of diamonds that
fast'ea-ln front ° ' the neclo by ribbons' thai
i pass..on arpund to the-7 rear and knot snugly ,
i The ribbons for some distance , are punctured
with' bright studs of diamonds , ami' by the
use of much larger links and longer rib ;
bens a superb belt Is nlnde o bo worn with
evening dresses.
HMimoiiitun
ArtlMIe Combination of
niulccillcMrork. .
The latest application of photography Is
combining it with needlework and lace for
table decoration. Linen and silk table
covers , table centers and dollies can be most
artistically Illustrated. One particularly ef
fective set Is made of Japanese linen. The
table cover Is fringed with a photograph of
a landscape in each of the four corners.
Around these corner Illustrations Is worked
delicate colored autumn flowers. Just the
kind oc finds by the country roadsides dur
ing October , for the set Is made as a me
mento of an nutumn trip n-whcel , nnd the
illustrations nil picture Bomo pretty bit of
landscape , episode or companion seen during
Iho Journey.
The dollies all have In their centers n
photograph several sizes smaller than Ohoao
on the lunch cloth. These pictures , In each
of which the wheels and their owners nro al
ways present , are framed by a Dresden pat
tern of the same wild flowers seen on the
cloth. The centerpiece , which Is round , has
n series of miniature pictures , In which a
history of the entire trip is illustrated.
These photographs nro also framed by
wreaths of tiny blossoms nnd have very
much the effect of a scries of medallions.
The ranker of this dainty set , who , It is
needless to say , Is a devotee to both the
wheel and the camera , ns well as an expert
needle woman , gives Mio following ndvlco
and suggestions about the work :
"Tho first care must bo to select bold ,
sharply cut negatives for the illustrations.
Then proceed to sensitize the fabric linen ,
wo will say. First make certain that the
material contains no dressing or any Ingre
dient that tnay cause stains. This Is easily
'done by washing It well in clean water. The
best medium for salting of fabrics Is arrow
root. If directions nro carefully carried out
failure with it should never occur.
Malto a salting solution by taking a tea
spoon of arrowroot and adding to it a suffi
cient quantity of water to make a. smooth
.pat/to. Now put In an enamel kettle , or
other vessel 'from ' which there Is no possi
bility of a stain , a quart or moro of clear
water , into this dissolve sufficient fine table
salt to make the water slightly salt to the
taste. When this comes to a boll , pour Into
it the arrowroot paste , stirring all the
( .vhllc. until a thin gelatinous fluid if
formed. Then set nsldo to cool.
When cold , the linen , having been well
washed In clear water , Is Immersed In the
arrowroot solution. After being thoroughly
saturated It Is taken out and dried before
a quick fire. It should dry allghtly stiff.
When dry sensitize by immersing it in a
bath composed of ICO grains of nitrate of
silver dissolved in three ounces of clear
cold water and rendered slightly add by
Inserting a glass rod dipped in nitric acid.
In a perfectly clear earthen dish place as
much of this nitrate
of silver solution as
will thoroughly saturate the dry salted
oloth. A few seconds' immersion Is aufll-
clpnt. Then hod the cloth before the brisk
flro and dry It a second time. Again It
should dry slightly stiff nnd without stains.
Now brilliant prints cau be pulled with
out trouble. Such operations may bo done
in a dully lighted room Instead of a dark
ono. provided the cloth Is dried off rapidly
before a brisk fire , It is not a difficult op
eration in any sense nnd a period of ten
minutes Is sufficient to prepare a piece of
cloth and hnvo It in the printing frame.
It Is best always to have the cloth freshly
prepared
In printing the Imago should appear a
good deal darker before it Is taken from
the printing frame than it Is Intended to
appear when finished , for the density win
bn lost in the toning nnd fixing processes.
After the printing Is finished the cloth Is
washed slightly in three changes of water
as rapidly as possible to remove the free
silver. The print Is then Immersed in an
ordinary acetate of gold toning bath. The
Imago will tone rapidly to a deep purple-
black. and after a alight washing is fixed
In weak hvpo In the usual manner. The
result Is a delightful photograph on cloth
of 'a coed rich brownish black cotor , . and
which when Ironed out and finished pre
sents a chormluK appearance.
THITHER SBLKISII NOR USELESS.
llncholor Women Dcft-mlrd from the
Attuokn of a KorrlKii Writer.
A leading English magazine not long ago
published an article describing in detail the
mode of life adopted by the bachelor women
Of London women who earn their own liv
ing , have their own "rooms" nnd clubs nnd
generally prefer a single life. Immediately
thereafter a noted English writer rushed
into print with a letter full of indignation
nt such a state of affairs. "Timo Was , " she
declared , "when we should have flatly re
fused to believe that women voluntarily
gave up their chances of becoming wives
and mothers In order to live the selfish and
useless life of the bachelor nbout town. It
Is still difficult to believe that the bachelor
woman can ever become a recognized
feature of our social life. She must over
remain a phenomenon , selfish and self-
centered , calling for the pity rather than
the envy of those who keep to the beaten
track. "
A Philadelphia woman comes to the de
fense of her fellow bachelor women In these
words ;
"It is very easy to call people selfish
though why that epithet and that of 'use
less' should bo applied to a woman who sup
ports herFclf without burdening her rela
tions I fall tn see. Accusations should bo
backed by proof. I think that if the fair
writer were to see the inner workings of
TUCII EVENING TOILETS.
ONE
J TRIAL BOTTLE
.
THIS OFFER ALMOST SURPASSES BELIEF.
An External Ionic Applied to the Skin
Beautifies It As by Magic.
OF the Age
.
A WOMAN WAS THE INVENTOR.
Thousands have tried from time Immem
orial to discover some efQcaclous remedy
for wrinkles and other imperfections of
the complexion , but none had ytt suc
ceeded until the Mlescs Bell , the now fam
ous Complexion Specialists , of 78 Fifth
avenue , New York City , offered the pub
lic their wonderful Complexion Tonic.
The reason so many failed to make thla
discovery before is plain , because they have
not followed the right principle. Balms ,
Creams , Lotions , etc. , never have a tonic
affect upon the skin , hence the failures.
The Misses Bell's Complexion Tonic has
a most exhilarating effect upon the cuticle ,
absorbing and carrying off all impurities
which the blood by its natural action is
constantly forcing to the surfnco of the
skin. It Is to the skin what a vitalizing
tonic Is to the blood and nerves , a kind of
new life that immediately exhilarates and
strengthens wherever applied. Its tonic
effect is felt almost Immediately , and It
speedily banishes forever from the skin ,
freckles , pimples , blackheads , moth patches ,
wrinkles , liver spots , roughness , olllness ,
orur.tlons and dtscoloratlons of any kind.
In order that all may be benefited by
their Great Discovery , the Misses Bell will , j
during the present month , give to all call-
THE MISSES B ilA , 7 nm Ave. , Nw York City.
Tbo Milieu Iloll'a Complexion Tonic , Complexion Snnp , Skin Fooil and Do-
nllo uro for Hale by nil
some of these coteries of earnest , industrious
women , she would bo surprised at tin
esprit de corps , the mutual charity , thi
absence of pettiness which she would find
Such a life develops in us a kind of manli
ness which includes some of the better char
acterlstlcs of the other sex. As a matter of
fact , the happy married woman is far more
'selfish and self-centered' than the working
spinster hers being none the less selfish
ness because It Includes a second self. Then
are exceptions , of course , but not many
Now , modern conditions of life cause Lon
don and the other big cities to bo flooduc
with female labor. Young , untried girls go
out Into the field to flght their poor little
battle. Believe me , they will stand far
more chance of help from the bachelor
woman who has gone through her own
struggle than from the matron who has
never looked beyond the four walls of her
narrow vineyard. Sympathy IB not taugh
by Inexperience. To cultivate It , TIS Uuskln
ears , 'you must be among human beings
and thinking about them. ' "
Frllln of KiiHlilon.
The beautiful damask silks of a generation
ago have been revived ,
A now liberty material is called Orion
satin. It comes In nil the lieht colors , and
is exquisitely soft In finish.
If you want to have the latest thing , get
n garnet cloth skill , a black coat , and n rei4
velvet toque in a rich , soft shade , a little
lighter than the skirt.
Buttons of nil klulda seem to bo In vogue ,
but the latest novelty Is crystal or glass
handsomely cut. Mother-o-pearl blended
\\lth glass is another variety.
Pretty trimmings for edging bows and
flounces are made of thin , narrow luto-strlnp
ribbon gathered In the middle. They are
especially effective on chiffon frills.
Some of the crystal buttons to be seen are
cut like diamonds , set Into n deep gold
framework , and are very brilliant. Other
pretty buttons of this style arc ball shaped.
All-over lace gowns in cream and ecru
over white pafln are worn for dressy occa
sions , and sleeveless coats of Irish guipure
arc one of the pretty accessories of evening
dress.
Barbaric-looking chains of colored beads
are shown among the novelties. Fans nnd
lorgnettes nro supposed to be attached to
these , nnd while they cannot supplant the
raord elegant Jeweled chains of gold they arc
strong and within reach of the many , which
means sorao measure of success.
Boas of all kinds nro the fashion , which
means that feather boas are still popular.
The new varieties are a mixture of three
colors , such as black , white and mauve In
one. Short neck ruffs are also made of
ostrich tips spotted with chenille , while oth
ers of soft kilted silk are edged with chenille.
Handsome figured taffetas are to bo found
now with the small figures woven In the
taffeta in black nnd larger colored figures.
Pretty silks have single flowers nbout an
inch In diameter , of different bright colors ,
scattered over the black cround. some dis
tance apart ; or the flowers may nil be of
one shade , ns n soft violet or heliotrope.
Wool bengallno is a material of richness
and refinement that Is likelv to become very
popular this season. It Is soft and silky In
appearance , and the fabric falls In most
graceful folds in Its making and draping. It
Is fine nnd delicate In effect , while at the
same time it is recommended for durability.
It appears In all the popular autumn shades.
Verv ttyllsh costumes of French broad
cloth and womens' cloth are made of two
shades of the fabric , the fronts of the waists
being arranged In straps of the cloth , or , If
a richer effect Is desired , bands of cream
cloth , edged with pimp and trimmed with
tiny gold buttons. This la n very effective ,
becoming , and no moro expensive btylo to
follow.
School girls do not need velvets to bring
out their fresh , vouthful complexion * , hut
they have all discovered that n little tie
of black velvet ribbon Is pretty nnd moro
becoming than the regular string tlo the
man and the shirt waist young woman
wear. The velvet Is nbout an Inch wide
and longer than a string tlo. It U stiffly
knotted , nnd the rather long loops nnd ends
stand out straleht at easli side.
A stylish Hubcns hat of black velvet hns
a medium-sized crown that Is surrounded
by a full plcntcd ruche of the velvet , lined
with watcrmclon-iilnk satin. The pleating
Is so arranged that only glimpses of the
bright color show here and there. This in
all the trlmmlnc there Is on the hat except
thrco full black plumes at the back , bet
among n number of satin-lined velvet loops
and "knots.
A stylish gown , with an individuality of
Its own , is of velvet. In one of the new
greens , tufted here and there with chenille
dots , to match the velvet. The garment is
made with a colonalto opening In front and
about knco length , wth | rounding corners
sloping a little In the back. It has one of the
plain backs , and the skirt below the polo-
naleo flares out with considerable fullness.
ers at their parlors one trial bottle of their
Complexion Tonic absolutely free ; nnd In
order that those who cnnnot call or who
live nwny from New York may bo bene
fited , they will send one bottle to any address -
dross , all charges prepaid , on the receipt of
25 cents ( stamps or silver ) to cover cost of
packing and delivering. The price of this
wonderful tonic Is $1.00 per bottle , and
this liberal offer should be embraced by all.
The Misses Bell have just published
their new boon , "Secrets of Beauty. "
This valuable work Is free to all desiring
it. The book treats exhaustively of the
Importance of a good complexion ; tells
how a woman may acquire beauty nnd
keep It. Special chapters on the care of
the hair- how to have luxuriant growth ;
harmless methods of making the hair pro.
servo its natural beauty and color , even to /
advanced age. Also Instructions how to , . , J
banish superfluous hair from the face ,
neck and arms without Injury to the oKln.
This book will be mailed to any address on
request.
FltEE Trial Bottles of Wonderful Com
plexion Tonic free at parlors , or 25 cents
( cost of packing and mailing ) to those at a
distance.
Correspondence cordially solicited. Ad
dress \
There Is a pointed opening at tiio .necX of
.he gown filled In with white , and with
iiimerous small lapels , also of the white.
dgcd with sable , as Is also the plain white
ollnr.
There is still a tendency to combine
iecullar colors , although one does not
bscrve the lock cf Larmonv that has
vailf.fi = o IOHK. It Is more as though the
same color were taken In nil Its varied
. . ( .itki , with pet haps a single note of a
/-m.t ! ! „ < ] . pto prs arc used as guides ,
and the Idea Is strictly carried out In the
.IBS and Its carnltures. the gown very
ftcn gaining a finishing touch from a real
pray of the flower which has furnished the
.aspiration.
Kent IT-I MI" IVrNomllM.
The widow of Millet , the French artist , is
n simple peasant woman and Is living on u
sum ralsrd for her by the admirers of her
husband's work.
Governor Stephens of Missouri has ap
pointed a woman , Miss Fannie V. Mudd , In-
V.KVJ *
o JO
PINK CHIFFON WITH WHITE LACK.
p ctor of'oils for the city of St. Charles In
that state to succeed Julius Raucb ,
Airs. Elizabeth Hcndrlckn , widow of tbi
former vlco president , Is managing her bus.
band's estate en well as to earn the title of
"tho best business woman In Indiana. "
Miss Flora Shaw , who IB now In the Klon
dike , Is the woman connected with the Lon
don Times who was Bald tn hive engineered
the London end of the Jameson raid.
Miss Allcp Everett , n graduate of Olrton
college , England , nt present engaged In spe
cial work nt the Royal Astrophyslcnl observ
atory In Potsdam , Germany , will be assistant
In the nntronoinlcal observatory at Vassur
college next year.
Mrs. Frederick E. Pardons , nt ono tlmt
a leader In Now York society , but now re
duced In circumstances , advertises her read
iness to execute commlaslorii on an extended
scale. Her first engagement was to decorate
a 400,000 residence.
Wyoming's female Buperlntcndent of pub
lic Instruction , Kstella Peel , has so success
ful ly managed the sale of public lands as to
IncrcHBo the state's Income from $100 to
Jl.OOO a week , She Is clover at driving good
bargains for the utate.
Miss Margaret J. Evans , who has Jiut * * (
been elected a member of the American
hoard , being the first woman to he to
honored , Is principal of Carlcton college ,
Minnesota , and 1ms been president of the
Congregational Woman's Board of Domestic
Mlselons for fifteen yearn. She has studied
at Oxford , Berlin and Heidelberg.
The three prizes offered by the Century
company for the best story written by col
lege graduates of IS'JT have all been won by
young women , although more men contested. . .
It would not bo safe to conclude from this >
that women were better nt writing fiction V
than men , but perhaps It may he that young
women can do better than young men , being
more mature for their ag In this na In other
things. Whether It Is a peed thine to en
courage nn early plunge into authorship It
another question.
DO not drink foreign champagnes.
YOU will find better nt home.
DRINK Cook'8 Imperial Champisn *