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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 31, 1898)
t Il Yrr-.r = , . . .r..r.rr r..e.w..w r.r. . . . . . . ' _ _ . . . . - . . . . . . . . . . . - . . , . . , . . - . . . . . . . . . - . , , . . . . . . . 14 111.E OMA17A DAILY. BLL , SUNIAr , JULY 31 , 1 ! s s ' i i 1 1 + i ! r r . 1 f 1 f 1 1 f S l Ir 1 fr 1' l 1 f r 1 f S l l 1 f r 1 l 1 f 1 f 1 f 1 f r 1 f l 1 , 1 1 f 1 f f III THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. 4. . . . . . .illll' . , LJJ,14P , tATrwr''sues IN w'b3LtN's WI tIL Chlneze Azure and Msattenr ( irnl' lne 1 "averlte Colors for Mndt 1 % messes. Ni\V YORK , July 8.-A perfect gown tut Is nobly planned Is still a voile ; a weave all wool and allk and woven with so open a mesh that the glory of your foundn lion skirt Is by no meapd tllmmcd or oh soured. As far ss the discerning aye Is nhlo to see , this lovable aopde Is going to push right on into the autumn and It you happen to have oven to or three of theca webby gowns In your summer wnrtlrobe , lay to your heart the flattering unction that you are very nicely provided 'With the beginnings of an autumn trousseau. In case your equipment , however , does not Include a voile and you set forth to buy one , ba very careful not to drop into error with regard to the color'ertlte voile. There fe nothing so , ottenslve In these days of hnrd high totes In dress as a tint or shad. that is clemode or beyond the pale of taslt- Ion. A woman is more scycrely judged now by the color than by the cut of her pretty rig and yet more by , tip combinations of colors her costumes display. Of all the blues that have In the past tv etvo months glowid on the dressmakers' horizon , Chinese - neso azure Is the ones right and only ye- riety to wear. By this Is meant the deep , rich tone that glows on those jars and plnt- ters that are worth their weight In gold to the students of ceramics , not a high , star- tag , frivolous blue , hut'aperfect match with willow pattern cups when 'thoy are true to the oriental potter's mark. With such a blao yellow is thrown in combination. Next after Chinese'aiufc , watteau grey claims distinct preferencb , and to mention carbon brown Is fairly lolling tales out of school , for It Is one of the surprises saved for next season. In the , atellers In Paris , where experts and artlstd forever study and Invent combinations and schemes of color , It has been decidedfor the immediate future , or , to speak morn emphatically , for the next six months , to keep all costumes so far as possible in but two colors , admitting - ting , of course , black and'whlte , To further explain , a Chinese azure vollo may have belt , collar and lining of buttercup silk and yet be prettily touched up with the now white satin gimp. A watteau grey foulard can be figured in black and further adorned with dlscrcet touches of sang-dc- bocuf silk under black lace. Beside carbon brown , sago green and rose and black are laid , and in this wonderful , last color you will soon see , in the shops , rich Venetian and Vienna cloths , crepes and satin surfaced silks , for already dealers in fine raiment are clearing out the last of the spring stock to make ready for the rush of the season next on the year's , rogram. Within a few weeks all the buyers will be home from Paris , and even now some of the early birds have come hack talking of the French substitution of clear copper color for burnt orange among the color's ' for trimmlug. lIIblack nud Copper. All the bandsomest black costumes In cloth , drap do Parts and wool velours or silk are , so they say , lo , show copper silk , satin and velvet undoiIppe vests and panels of very open worked black embroidery. Already - ready sonic of these liln lC nod copper- gowns are seen In Ncwport' yball' ' end drawing rooms and every woman who lifts a black skirt shows either a copper colored silk petticoat or foundation jupe. More splendid thou any other fabric yet seen are some of the jvekts and panels and inserted vandykcs On the very , very advanced - vanced black toiletsL These costly scraps of material are coppery hued velvet , with gold and silver threads shining out from the silk mesh. The letttng of vandylcee and the insertion of a colarunder braiding , lace or embroidery shows signs , though now 1n Its incipiency , of becoming a decided and prevalent fashion likely to influence future - ture dresssmaktng , and if our modes are to be taken from the news importations seen at the leading watering places then we may make up our minds to hook and button all our winter frocks under the left arm. Only the commonplace bodice comes together In front for a free fold , for decoration across the bust is demanded by the dressmaker who leads. Of courseworncn , may grumble against this last order , , but nevertheless a more gracious and becoming waist is the result ut the under-arm hooking. I'Icluresgne Sleeves , Any woman with two intelligent eyes in her mend and a reasoning brain back of her eyes needs only to Watch a well costumed Casino group or takee notes along the drives at Bar Harbor , Newport , etc. , to re- cetvo two or three very positive and refreshing - freshing impressions. The first of these relates to the picturesque - esque sleeve of the day. It is close , so elos. that when made b } ' an artist it hugs the arm without a wrinkle and rolls up from the small cuff that overspreads the knuckles clear up to the armpits , here , like a omoothly drawn kid glove , the sleeve opens bell shape around a small puff , which rather resembles a muskmelon in shape. and , if the sleeve is cloth or silk , this putt Is most likely made of gathered or pleated silk muslin. To compleil the arms' decoration - tion , a very modest Flat epaulette extends from the shoulder upon the puff. A bit of braided cloth , two wedge shaped pieces of goods or scraps of rich enihroidery fora the epaulolle that Is hnvarlahly edged with a narrow qullllug of material from which the puff is made. Through some flight of strong Imagination this arm bag has been christened - ened the Charles the Ninth sleeve , Bodice Ilecoratlons , Bringing her inquisitive vision to bear on the body of the average good gown , the note taking woman will obsoye , since all dress waists hook up to the .lett , they all show unique trimming and shaping tending that way. A largo percentage have their froths cut in an exact right anglq triangle. The polut of the auglo books tinder the left arm , over a full undervest of .soft yellow lace or embroidered muallnm , which shows thus on the left shoulder and under the left breast. Other fronts spread up to hook an the left shoulder but catch only once under the arm , for the material is sloped away below the point to admit a gust of lace or an under- vest of brocaded satin { o appear , To sum Have You Silyer Threads Among the Gold ? THE IMPERIAL HAIR REGENERATOR INS'r.tNTIY ItIS'1'OItlS GIt.tY OIL IILI'hACItL ! U f1AHl To Natural Color. ALSO 1'It)11UCFS ( ) tNY SIL4nsJlie IIICII 'I'I'r1Ax IL111) , Clean , udorless , lpatilig. It does flat Contatu all atom of poisonous matter , will not stain the senlp , and baths do not ittlect it. Seven eel. ors cover nil shttdes , Price $1,5O nud $3OO. No , 1-Bluclc , No , t-Cheatut , No , 9-Dark mown. No , 5-Light Chestnut No , 3-Medium BrowaNo , t-Goln Islond , No , 1-.Arab or Blond Cendree , Sole manufacturers and patentees : Imperial Chetah al M'fg , Co. , 29 Fifth Aye , , N. T , For sale hr Omaha by ltlehardson Drug Co. Sherman & McConnell 1513 Dodge Street , Applied by ail hair dressers , .1 . t up , the whole impression is that of a series of very bizarre little tolero fronts that adequately - quately and charmingly fill the aching void left by the dear bid pudding bag or pouched front. Late as it is in this season the summer wrap has only just mobilized its forces and stepped out on anything like impressive and instructive dress parade. Women whose pockets ate lined with either gold , or whose names signify almost unlitnlted credit at the shops , wear exquisite confections when driving and calling that are a compromise between the almost obsolete boa and the equally degenerate small cape , That is to say , en enormous ruche of black silk violets , of roses , or heather blossoms encircles - circles lute neck , and from this depend two pointed trills of rich old white lace. Tito longest trill lets its point fall only a few inches below the wearer's waist and In front clear to her feet extend two white lace scarfs that are supposed to servo as strings to catch the cape collar up snugly under her throat. The enterprising economical woman copies this bit of prettiness most reasonably with a collar of purple violets and strings and falls of. ivory whlte'sllk ' point esprit , edged with white hobo ribbon. Another brand of summer wrap , which , In spite of the chill season , was tardy in arrival - rival , is a collar high about the ears , and n ki7 . . \ , , , , , fg1 . , va4r , w. 1 I : G e I , lQ . , a ? a a O w ryw , il \\c.\ \ \ l , 'VA7 ' a f I A 1 I ( Y / 1I ' 1 \ r. .c ' ) I g a I ' ' . lls . CHARMING NEGLIGEES. flaring on the shoulders , having for Its foundation some sort of stiffening. Inside , the collar is lined with black .S'wan's down , Outside It 1s completely covered with many overlapping small trills of chiffon , edged with ribbon. A jey'eled tongue and buckle catch this under the chin , The popular though not the official name for this small garment is the Klondike comforter. A white Shetland sin 1wl with gilt and silver threads run through it is the very choicest evening wrap a woman can carry in this day when luxury bas reached a point where extreme simplicity is its highest cxpreaslon , I lora1 Hats anti VglruNots , Among the pretlinesses of the country toilet is the floral parasol that is as perishable - able and attractive as the flowers it repro- seats , When opened a floral sunshade illustrates - trates either a huge peony , rose , poppy or snnIlover. Large petals of liberty silk ore cut out and artfully adjusted to a foundn- ( ton of silk , and about the ferule end puffed yellow chiffon represents the golden heart of the flower. Vivid scarlet poppy parasols sols are most popular , mounted on black staffs , tipped with gilt. Palpably for companionship with such sweet frivolities are the picnic hats made ell of silk muslin , either shirred onto frames of wire anti trimmed exclusively with bows , tufts and ponpons of the Santo goods or built like the parasols to represent a flower. The floral lusts have wire freinea anti to the net that covers the wire Is : , ado fast a clover design of petals , The petals are cut from liberty silk and tinted , They overhang and cover the brim , while a succession - cession of green silk calyx leaves close round the crown and crinkled Inner leaves that enclose the stamens. The flower hats are copies of those worn this season at chateau partles lit France and from the same source comes the commendable - mendable fashion of trimming rough green , brown and yellow straw bats with 'dingo and fruit , For ninny a long day we have all worn cherries anti occasionally grapes on our headgear , but 1t has remained for this season to ripen our military peaches , plums , pears , apricots and currants and gooseberries - ries , while already almost common have grown the strawberry , blackberry and rasp. berry huts. Usually round , coarse Lombardy straw shade hats are used for this purpose and the foliage is massed on the crown and brim with knots of fruit placed tvhemovor a tasteful fancy dictates , No lace , ribbon or flowers are permitted by an artlsllo trimmer - mer , and as the plums , pears and peaches are copied duly in miniature their effect in decoration is never heavy , Spurtlni ] ruts. Last among the phases of the sailor hat is a crown of white or blue duck , or pique and a rough straw brim , it is said to ho the coolest example of summer headgear - gear going , but for golfing and wheeling tliu affections of the well dressed sporting soul are firmly fixed on the brown Rough Riders' list , Its simplicity , Its dura ljlty and the fact that it is a copy of the semi- slouch heat 'worn by those dashing soldiers it Cuba , has recommended it beyond' ' all rivals to the timely woman , Talk of hats brUise uppermost a vision of n new veil that women are experiment- lag wIth , I' is a black net , heavily dotted , but only up to the level of time eyes. On a level with the range of vision no dote are woven , and the effort of the manufacturer is obvious and commendable. This now policy - icy has been most conspicuously pursued with regard to the while veils dotted with black , qulto the most blinding ninsquo a woman cnn wear. A timing even morb evil than that is the dark blue veil with white dots that Is selling like the traditional hot cakes , ' All these temptatiomms to bleared eyes and racking headaches the very out-of-doors woman scornfully rejects , for her chief delight - light Is centered in the finally perfected golf 'shirt waist which is a tree translation of time English peasant's smocked frock. A light cashmere flannel is the material used for time shirts that button up behind , are richly smocked over the front and shoulders and are warn with the short tails on time outside. Meadow , or malachite green finn- nel is the shirt's color , relieved by a clear red belt of leather and rolling red flannel collars and cuffs. The shirt tails really only flare out upon the hips a couple of Inches , and the sleeves are smocked nt the wrist , Worn with n greentwaterproof verge skirl and a Rough Riders' hat , the golf shirt helps to make up a wonderfully rustle and picturesque costume. In the matter of shoes the golfer is lrl umplmant and progressive , for. the makers of footgear have contrived tar her wear th'r prettiest and most useful 1lttlo laced , boots with vamps of an improved patent leather. Warranted not. to tarnish in the dew nor crack in the heat and built with black rubber soles , having square low heels , the golfer's daintiness of loot is no more wasted on the links than in a ball room. In harmony with time patent leather shoes are the bags of green waterproof cloth , bound with pateut leather , and the score keeper , fixed to a patent - ent leather case on a dial plate , thdt can be kept handily stuck in tbo crown band of one's slouch hat. IIItistrnlbus of FuslatoltM. Symphonies in skirts are not difiicult of construction with such mater lal as the summer mer brings to hand , Five expressions of dainty delight are shown hanging on the line. Their respective materials are Indian taffeta silk , satin foulard , orgaudle , Irish mull anti French muslin , The Indian taffeta is cut in deep vandylcee over a fan kilted flounce and offset with lionlton entre deux , A Lomis XV. panel drapery distinguishes the French muslin while' the satin foulard is opened In follow flour-dc-his design over an under decoration of lace anti ribbon , Each and every one of these flower-like skirts is designed for weer by a youngish woman , Their coquettishness of ornamentation - tion is not suitable for a woman on the ateady side of twenty-eight , and thmelr waists are , though not shown , supposed to lean to the popular lido in favor of fichu drapery about the shoulders That is , a simple round silk or muslin body is mantle , cut open rounder or pointed at the neck and a kerchief so llis posed as to obviate all necessity of any other trimming , Caught on the bust or shoulder or down at the waist line , the lter- chlef is always ] potted , fastened with a bright jewel pin and lots fall soft , lace trim. used sash like ends , A golfing smock is made clear this week In Ifne , but not in color , ' French or cash- macro tlannol , fn any one of the good shades of clear green , with the collar , cuffs and belt in golfers' red flannel forms the make-up of this easy aunt ( picturesque little garment. Solomon's glory or that of his wife would certainly have been greatly enhanced by the possession of any such : ralmeat as time group of three bed room wraps shown , The two dressing jackets are composed individually of brocaded green satin , mantle up wittm ivory while Venetian lace and Persian red silk worked in gold embroidery anti turquoise beads. Turquoise blue Liberty eiik ( arms the front and sleeves of the latter , while in the third oval is displayed a Japateso wrap for throwing over a nightdress , Blue and white Japanese crepe with coral red crepe facings is the appropriate combination in such a convenient cape-like garment , which for winter wear 1s made on exactly the same outlines , but of wadded Jnpaneae silk , MARY DGAN. CIll I)1'1' ) 1IINtU , = Amcrlcnn lVotfGn Shopplpk 1'ithout C'nsh In l.eropcan CIIIcM , L'If you wsnt'tto iecetvo a genuine boost to your nallonal and personal pride , " said a woman just home from a pilgrimage ht Eu rope , "travel abroad and there discover that the mere fact of your being tin American stands as security for most extensive credit with the foreign tradesmen. Over on the other side an almost religious faith Is cherished ished in human and ferulnine nature when it halls from Columbia's shares , smith 1 experienced - perienced in Europe for the first time 1n my life the joy of discovering that my An gln Saxon face was Iherally ntg fortung , "The pleasing shock was first recelved on I no less unpropitlous territory than that of Spain , where even last winter the Amer- Icauo was looked upon with contempt and disgust. however , I fetcbed up , my first day ashore , h1 a seductiv3 littli hrlc a brac shop In Gibraltar , After purchasing clear up to my limit I tell on a fan without time pon- sesslon of which I felt life would he h weary wnsle , lint I simply had not the $ 2I to pay for it , and I said so , The proprietor , a Spanish Jew , handed it to me with a courtly bov , shying , 'Send tha money by and by , ' I assured ldm 1 was gaing to leave Gibraltar in an hour , that three weeks must elapse before 1 could send him the money an from London , 1 explained I was a total stranger in the place. Then ho summoned up sufficient English to say , 'Madam , I am a Jew and have been In this business twen- ty-five years , but I rarely hesitate to give either an Engllslnnan or an American all the credit they wish , Not once have they ever betrayed.my confidence , Go in peace and pay when you cnn , ' . 'Now , you may , consider this a unique experience , but after six months' knocking about the continent - nent and comparing notes with other Americans , I came to the conclusion that with a bold but lunoceut eye and a rich Yankee twang I could travel around the globe on credit. "It was my experience with those shrewd , hard fisted little French dressmakers who proved this to me and also proved what a wide and lofty reputation the New England conscience enjoys. You see I was et my first trip to Paris and lllco all good Anion- cans my two friends and I felt hound to buy one smart frock apiece , cost what they would. So we picked out a modiste whose name we saw very often in the fashion papers as a purveyor of rare costumes to duchesses , etc. We had no letters of introduction - duction to the head of the firm ; our address was one of the most modest little hotels In Paris ; we hone all the earmarks of enter- prlsing breadwinners out on a holiday and we offered to make ample deposit on each gown ohdered , "You see , , wo were accustomed to doing so at home , besides guarabteeing to pay on dollyery of goods , But to our amazement not only was no deposit required , but no references were asked and the gowns were left at our hotel quite as if We were leading milllonalresses. Furthermore , we saw goods and models In that dressmaker's rooms that stcemnctl quite irresistible ; but when we were urged to buy we niada a clean breast of our financial condition , "Then so fairly gasped wimen the dress. maker calmly proposed to supply us each with clothes to the amount of X300 , let us take theta to America and pay just as soon as we were able , It was a fairly staggering proposition , and for awhile we feebly idrug Fled to resist , but the modiste only laughed cheerfully. " 'Have no fear , ladles , ' she insisted , 'I knew my business , and though there are ti- tied , wealthy ladles hero in Parts to whom I dare not extend a penny of credit , the Americana they have what you call the New England conscience , I have beard about that conscience and I trust It every' time. It's all rigld , ladles , it Is gnlto 0 , K. ' She laughed joyously over the knowledge of Anherlean honesty and American slang , and I broublmt over all my lovely Parts clothes an credit , "I must say they are no less wllling to trust a respectable looking 'American woman ! n London , and iii Italy they regard an American's promise to pay as good as a baud , One Now York woman showed me a whole boxful of lovely dismond rings a London dealer sent to her hotel for Inspection - tion , lie left them with her for three days , asking no other assurance than her premise that they would be well cared for ; another ono told moo on my hone-coming steamer how , without her purse or her luggage , she was left behind at limo station fit Verona , She was elelhed in the valueless simplicity of her bicycle dress , but , bald as brass , she went into time best hotel in the town anti explained her situation , She wanted some money to telegraph to her friends , she wanted lodging for the night , Imer bath , her dinner nnti her breakfast , and she had only a chrnp silver watch to put up as security , "The plumpankablo hotel proprietor heard her story , looked her over , roftised to touch her waleim and gave her the very best he had in his house to offer. She wonders it she could repeat that experlencq - fully in her own country , Never at adv time do foreign tradespeople refuse to send and leave goods for inspection at an Amen- ken's hotel , Parisian and London milliners will send a ddzdn'boxes of hats to n hotel and tot lito prospective purchaser keep them twenty-four hours , to study and experiment wilt thelr charms. There seems to be m fear that the patroness will dishonestly attempt - tempt to get a tow hours' wear out of any of then , and beside iota tley will sontl shoes , undergarments , etc , , hone for dls- cussion and approval , "After a six mouths' sojourn among these flattering and confiding foreigners I came komo and utterly failed to repeat any of tlieso pleasant oxtprfences in my own land , I've tried it and I know that the American woman is often not without credit save in her awn country , " OANG 1'LANIc I'AIL&DL , llerolsm' DiNpiiii l Europenmt Arrivals - rivals Ilefore C11MIetaM Otllcers. Quito the most Impressive sight , to fern- mine eyes , when a great Atlantic liner is warped into her slip at the New York docks , is the dress parade of hone-coming women down the gang-plank leading from the first class cabin. Ilutnble-minded or scant of purse Is that traveler who does not peacock down the narrow wooden lane leading to the dock in a gown of especial imptrtance. The coming-off costume of course includes a brand new hat , shoes , gloves , sunshade nod often enough a wrap , which she carelessly - lessly tbrows over her arm and thus tries to run the gauntlet of the customs. In the good old days , when Uncle Smmn exacted light duties , lima coming-oft toilets used to be very perfect in appointment indeed ; the most exquisite creations from the rue de in Paix and bonnets from celebrated mai Sons figured in the show , Nowadays time high duty on personal belongings has brought about a curious result in this dross parade. Women who have dipped deeply into foreign shops put on , for the arrival function , not what will make the most symmetrical - metrical costume , but wlmal they prize the mpst and wish : to get through duty free. The idea is to wear ashore the most precious - ious things , anti in consequence some amazing - ing outfits trip on to time dock. When a ship came in from England recently- , and the day was piping hot , a stout dowager sailed down the gang plank arrayed in a superb - perb gray satin skirt cut with a long satin train and heavily trimmed with splendid lace. It was evidently a gorgeous dimmer dress , for time satin body , as richly ornamented - mented as the skirt , hod an Incongruous white lawn gamp fitted ido the decollete neck , and muslin sleeves sewed into the armholes. Around her throat the lady wore a faultless boa of sable tails ; on her head was a hat all too palpably bought for her 16-year-old daughter , and aloft fluttered a dainty while lace and satin sunshade. Beads of perspiration glistened on the flushed but gratified countenance of the good lady. All the devoted sons and daughters - ters who were on hand to greet here were held at 'arm's ' length , for , arrayed as she was , no emliraces were possible. Over one arm swung the tail of her frock , the family stood like n hodvgtmard about her to preserve - serve her satin draperies from the tarnishing - ing contact of luggage std passettges , and in the midst of her discomfort the lady was triumphant. lien best frock , her furs , Gladys' hat and Josle's parasol w'ere safe , and at the grin inquiry of time inspector she averred that the tout ensemble was her traveling dress , and she tiered him to con- tradiet her. Time dowager was not , however , alone in her eccentricity. Another woman came ashore in a palpably London made golf dress , an enormously wavy Scotcht shawl ulster and a delicate toque of tulle and plumes on her head. Under the influence of time heat and the ulster she grew white and falnted when she reached the dock. She had worn the ponderous garment all the way up the bay , and as she tell into her husband's arms she was heard to murmur - mur hysterically , "Suva my hat , " But these are not the only tragedies of the coming ashore parade. It is when , hay- leg arrayed herself in her wonderful gown and marching proudly down the gangway , that the bottomless perfidy of the Paris and London modiste and milliner is discovered , Now , it ! s the desire of every American wmnan's heart to buy her hats and gown quilo unlike these of nay otlmer woman. It Is customary for milliners and modistes to recommend toilets as perfectly novel of tin. sign , to ask double prices for hats of which no copies are made , and oven to destroy time drawn design of a hat or gown before a customer's eyes in order to insure imer in the sole possosslor of the unique treasure , There were a couple of women who got back home lately with tales of deepest woe to tell. Oae of theta had fallen Into the clutches of a Regent street tailor , and all the way over she talked of n stunning gown she was going to wear ashore. The gown was of tor own designing and sue was as tickled tslth lt as a stamp bend 'alto imas got the only specimen of its kind , She made fast friends with a woman from Chicago - cage and they both sat on declc when the weather would allow and sharply criticised a couple of demure little yellow-headed actresses who dressed very blowzlly Indeed , The clay of the landing the New Yorker rose en deck perfect to the last pin , a smile of deep content on her face and a ( real : cambric handkerchief in her fand , readyto wave greeting to time shore. Mldway of limo declc she met her Chicago chum. Both women stopped short , grew pale. The New Yorker's lip hegan to tremble and tears to gather in her eye , the Chicagoan looked as if she Imad seen a snake or a mouse , Tlmelr gowns were scant for seam , stitch for stitch , exact duplicates , Time women passed each other without even bowing , but the dregs of their cup was not yet reached. It was when by clmance timey both started down the gnngst'ay elbow to elbow that they saw dl- rectly before thorn the two Ilttlo actresses , who were the sisters something or other , performers In variety shows , and always NE\V TRIMMED SKIRTS. . . . . . i A .c . ! , , r v ' , ! p i.r Yl/i , 1 , ' / t j ' v tit , ' .e : 7r , i t t lv C I I ' : : ' ; : ; . ' ¼ r s's \Y 1 s'i i 'v tl.o t l I k- i c v t , t t r ' - . dressed exactly mike , gowned in the most faultless copies of the special mind particular design of which time New York woman was sure she owned the copyright. WIIIOWS t'O\'ritAS'r , 'rhrir Ie ( Nolte 1)IiTereut In Clvlllaed with littelv111reel Cconnlrles , To don the cap of widowhood in America is also an assurance llml the Individual has taken on new taselnallons. Perhaps not in any tangible form ; hid the very mnme of n w Idow will stir nay number of people with a subtle sense of expectancy. It is also tree that the tact of being a widow seems to surround the woman with ihnumnerable admirers - mirers , end unless she is of n most stalwart disposition , aim cannot fail to again tall n victim to the snares of matrimony , Sonic sage tins satd : "That this is be cause ts'hlovs are sweeter than other wotuen , as love has passed over them. " ilovever this may be , tiles' possens in America nail time most civilized nntlons all the combined advantages of every other class of women and almost every age , A uumrried womau boasts the possession of her honor , her dignity mmil her pocketbook. A widow possesses them all , A single woman doubt but what lie will enjoy the joke as ' el much as did his daughter. l'rIIIM of t'ashlon , For n neat and atyllsh tailor-made gown , the panel effect is unlversally liked , , dtatchboxes bearing portraits of Sehley , Itobson and 1)ewey mire in great demand. Chain purses with various deslgna of the afmy amt navy button as covers are of- freed , Opal rings mounted with silver stones and clusters are favorites. Opals are more worn in all forms of jewelry. Shirt waist sets of enameled designs are very fashionable , Favorite designs represent - sent the heads of ancient celebrities , t , Anong the latest designs of patriollo belt buckles Is an Iniltatloi of tic' regular army buckle , surroun kd by a laurel wreath ennmoled to greor. Linen colored lmndkerchlefs of pure ihlcn nro the latest fashion. They mire more serve kceahle en tlmo links , mvhcel , and for nil , t outdoor use titan the dainty bits of white lltten usually carried by w omimen. Sleeves are being made smaller and with. out trimming , except at the wrist , \Valsta i t are elaborate , with revers and cpmtlcts out skirts arc tmeketl , ruffled amid braided , ; 3uils of cheviot , covert amid cloth are braided , , ' , . . rI ' , Xt ' I , l ? S , , 4 \ ' t 0 t L tiny t f 4' l r . , t S ; Y J / , , n + , h = -H A SPORTING BLOUSE. talks of her independence and her latch key. The widow has them also. A debu- tante's mind is full of the weighing of the qualities of her admirers. But the widow's task is even more arduous. On all the sphere , surely no woman bns more scope to be charming than the widow of a civilized nation. But ht uncivilized countries the widow's lot is quite different. The death of her husband not only strips her of everyfami - nation and charm that simo formerly possessed - sessed , but loads her with chains of servitude - tude and curses from his relatives , An observant American widow that has recently returned trout India , was much impressed with their melancholy state In that country. Tlmere , as soon as a woman Is married , she but lives through her hus- band's favor. God only hears her prayers when they are made for hlu benefit. The greatest misfortune , however , that can happen - pen to her is to have him die before she does , When this Is the case , his relative9 cone at once to the house and take pos. session of everything , The poor little wilt sits in a corner , striped of her former clothes and jewels , and in rags keeps up a law , moaning noise , while all abuse her. "Slue has killed him , " "Itev prayers were not heard , " "Her thoughts have wandered - dered , " are the anathemas that are showered - ered upon her. When the body of her husband is buried on the pile of burning faggots by the side of the flanges , as le the custom , some one Is always commissioned to ! mold back the wlfo from throwing herself an the buru- hig pile , and so perishing. She , knowing well what her after life will be , usually endeavors to end it at this time. After the ceremony of burning , the iittlo wife in clamorously driven up to her waist into time Ganges by the mourners. Afterwards she walks home , the last ammo of time procession , which is of wheels , and throws herself down on the hard floor of the out-house , where she is compelled to remain for three days , lamcntimg , bier clothes nro dripping wet from having been iii time Ganges , but she is not allowed to chongo them. And to this pool of water she has to add her tears until the evening of tine third day , The mortality of these little widows at tills time is very large , To those that survive , the barber's wife , who is a most lnportaat personage in India , comes when the line is up , and dresses themn im the garb of a waiting maid. They then enter time bionic of another womnan , usually sonic connectlon of their hmusband , amid act as her servant for the rest of their lives. No wonder the gay Anmrlcan was shoeked at this pathetic contrast to the lives of the widows In her own country. Hn\olt si11PSO\'H DAU011'I'tat. Ne York 5evsboys Attend a Ilei ep- tlon ' 1'midered II ur. I Time popularity of Admiral Sampson among' ' time street urchins of American cities Is shared by members of his family , A tow days ago a Now York ciun gave a reception to one of time daughters of tlmis seadog. While the reception was in full swing nolsa of a growing tnnalt crept Into limo rooms. Someone went to the door and found limo u house in a state of slegc. Time street was blocked by a mnob of zmall hays with grlmmiy , resolute faces. When the door opened the murmur swelled to a clamor. "What do you want , boys ? " asked the astonished young womman at the door. "w'anl to ace Admiral Sampson's daughter ; shrilled time crowd , ' \'ell , you can't ; ' and time door was shut , After a parley an the part of the besieged amid much uolsp on the part of the besiegers the doer opened once more and a dignified young woman said stonily : "Now , boys , you are unnoying us and you must go away at once , " 'limo crowd responded as one boy : "Nopo ! We won't budge until we've seen Admiral Sanmpsou's daughter. " The ultimatum was so positive that ( hero was nolhimmg to do but run up a white flag or call out time militia. hiss Sampson , much annmsed , urged surrender , so the attacking force was invited It : and one by one they tiled through the hall amid parlor , n ragged but trlumpimant hand. They took a hood , square look alt MIiss Sampson , solemnly shook hands with her and then tiled out , The heroine of time orcaslou , under fire , sbowed herself ] tor ( other's own daughter and bore the svlde eyed scrutiny with small. log selt-possesslon , while she cordially shook time little black hands held out to her. She says she doeaa't know when she over enjoyed anything more , Ifer father has not yet heard of tills compliment to him , but when it does comae to his ears there is no ' wimllo silk and cashmere are ruffled or luclced , This is the season when the only bath robes bearable arc the ones made of thin Turkish toweling , The newest are as loud as n self-made man's praise of his creation. They have huge polka dots , some of them as big as a sliver dollar , to a strikingly contrasting - trasting color. By time way , the polka dot seems to be right in the ring again. It has conic to life with renewed vigor , The very newest ribbons tor ncclcwear , bells and trlnunings and the latest sashes are nil in polka-dot + Patterns. The dots So far ore quite small , but everywhere striking contrasts In color are the order of the clay. A pretty afternoon gown of grenadine is made with accordion-pleated blouse and skit , and crass-lucked sleeves over black , with a sash of light gram taffeta. To make it more dressy , the ribbon may be edged with a narrow frill of blaclc ntouss2line , headed by a tiny applique baud of mousse- lluo embroidered with jet beads and spangles. it , Jackets for fall wear are to be made ; longer titan last year. Flat hands are the most appropriate trlrnmings tor heavy goods. Costumes are made of two shatles of caslmmere , cloth and other heavy goods ; time darker color forms the side seams and upper part of skirt. The jacket may be linlsked with bolds of velvet or fancy goods. The rest is of satin or brocade , Moro women awlni nowadays than ever before - fore , anti time result is that bathing salts are now built with a , view to use rather/1 f than to more bccomingness. Tine wise girl wears a silk turhan or a cap of silk rub- her when In the water , unless sits is blessed with naturally curly hair. Few women can , statmd time lest of stringy straight locks , , ' and no wmnnn exista beautiful enough tL look pretty when her crowning glory is , , soaked. Fceful , . I'ersoartis , Miss Elizabeth Asho of San Framels2o , who named the tepedo boat destroyer Par- ragut , is descended from a long line or soldiers - diers std is related to lira Farragut family , t Caroline Croft , formerly Cnrolhmo Abigail Brewer of Boston , has left 100,000 to two + prominent physlclaus of that city for laves- 1 tlgatiom to find some way of curing cancer , 1 consumpllon and oUte diseases now no- gardcd as Incurable , Miss Eva Leon , who has recently been lmuored by the French government with the title of "Ofilcer cl'Acadentlc , " makes her home in New York , but is well known hero through her teaching in one of the prominent Philndegthia schools , One of the applications for service as a Roil Cross nurse was made to Mra , White- ' , law Reid and Dr. Shrady 1n New York by ? a bright Florida young w'nman , who salmi site Ind herself lord the yellow rover while in Jacksonville mind had seen some of her own fatally die of it , Mrs. Cora Itcmtet' , who was chief of Limo women detectives at limo Werld's fair , Is to take charge of a similar depnrtnent at the 1 Paris exposltior , Mrs. Benner peconally tondo 200 arrests hero and she Imd rlucty llvo Wooten detectives working under her , Site will take 100 1o Paris , i Miss Sarah 0 , Wecden , a reintla of time / poet John G. IVlmlttier , has been made mu- venintendent of time Mlnssacnuselts Slate Almshouse , In Charlestown , artd 1t is to po donated henceforth solely to time care of } 4 : women and aged couples. Thla will be a now departure fur limo ] lay State. " Mrs. i vclyri S , 'rome of Elkton , Mth en- e joys the dlstinetlot of being time only woman In the land wlio Is prosithenl of two ualinnal ; banks , Several days ago abe was elected m to limo presldoncy of the National flank of ' Elkton , and for several months she has been president of the Cecil National back of Port Doposit. Mrs , Annie M. Brown of Brattloimoro bas been appdinted by Attorney General Orlggs I' as clerk of the United Slates attorney's do- ; partnont for time district of Vermont. Most of mho depositions and other legal testlutntmy taken stenographically in Brulteboro and vicinity for sonio time past have been talcen by Mrs. Brown and she Is regarded as fully competent. A woman who was brought up in time old- fashloued way and who was always taught to regard Mlsa Anthony's Ideas as rrlrosont- lag all that wets obnoxlomms in womanklad , writes of her first meeting with the great eulraglat : "f hadn't ' been under limo same roof with her very long tef9ro I completely lost may heart to hen She was such a dear old thing and ecemued to love all of us , young and old ; Mine , Constance Mnllrnann , a German w'atmtan of high birth who ilas ii'ed It New , lirighton , Staten Island , for u long time , gave ) ter i mtdsnmu house there to the lie- man Catimolle Order of the Visitation for the purpose of establishing a retreat and wltlt the expectation of entering the order herself ! mi her old age and ihmding a home there , Now abe has ! tad such violent controversy - troversy with members of the order as to limo architecture of time building and similar imatters that she wilt probably never join tl , the order and it is likely that her sif will i be returned to bar by Archbishop Corricau , its aresent custodian ,