THE OMAHA DAILY JJEE : SUNDAY , MAY 8 , 1898.
t IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
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WTO
MIDSUMMER FASHIONS.
Halt AV'nlrr Snl , Tnllor CJOIMIM nnrt
Youthful Evpiilmv llrrmi.
NEW YORK , May G. In dpltc of warn
mid rumors of wars tin ; dressmakers rml
milliners arc bvorwhrlroea with their spring
orders , and firm In tlio faith that Spanish
war ehlpa wilt never oven sight our whorco
the trnfllc In bathing eulls It strong and
etcaily , The wholesome policy , with regard
to salt water costume * , that Kmco and
charm are most esscntl.il to their proper
representation ts mnlntalncl with vigor thU
i > caon , and Irom Francs have been Imported
Borne most delectable dplini. ;
At the French watering placer. a pleasing
painty of color l charru-terlsMo of bathing
dresses , ami u careful Vranchv.'onmuouM
never In. satisfied to coquette with the ocean
In the sober , unbecoming blue llanncl togs
the average American la content to wear.
1'erhnps It Is the talk of war. or may ba
just a phase of the Infinite variety of femi
nine taste , but a deal of cheerful red has
made Its appearance on the bathing dresses.
There Is a shade of warm ccrlao flannelette
that has caught the popular taste , and Is In
process of making , with a dull sang tie
bocuf , black or cream , white braid , for smart
and lively bathers.
A close wale , smooth surface serge , recom
mended as waterproof , Is ( Hint out by the
manufacturers an a temptation to those who
are bound for a summer by the sea. So light
and springy Is this goods that It does not
become water logged , as will the ordinary
ergc or llanncl , and on retreating from the
craves the bather , In an Instant , Is almo.st
a dry as the proverbial duck's back. A
clear water green , navy blue and steel blue
are Bomu of the colors In which this excel
lent goods can bo lought and what the talloi
suits have lost In braiding the bathlni :
drcsfrcH have gained.
C'oi-rcot Cut mul Dcciiriitlon.
The most extensive scrolls and frets and
floriated designs. In broad and narrow
*
braids , of white , blnck , blue or red , wandei
ornamentally over the blousy waists nml
tliort pattlcoatfl of these unter dresses. Oc
casionally braids of two colors , as red am !
white for example , are applied to a navj
blue serge- suit , or a purely white costumt
will be enhanced by most appropriate wavj
lines of narrow turquoise blue woolen sou
tache.
There Is no exception to the rule of low
nock and short sleeves thU summer , urn !
yet ns the bathing aults have In a way be
come more elaborate and showy , they arc
also more sensible of cut. Very few are made
with knlckci backers of wool. A flno raohali
is used for this purpose , and those who wlsl
to wear a species of corset when bathing
can have their mohair bloomers niado a parl
of the lightly-bound stays.
The majority of good skirts are kilted Ir
to the belt so artfully that there Is sllghl
bulk about the waist and yet ample fullness
at the hem. Nine out of ten skirts are alsi
bifurcated , \\hlch adds Infinitely to the
bathcr'u ease , while the plaited folds concca !
this arrangement. There are , of course
countless women who along llie northerr
shores persist In wearing In the water th (
comforta'blo and dapgerous mohair dresses
They ! mor'3 than uver , this summer wll
exercise a fatal attraction since the shop :
are showing ' gplcst .plaid pppllu bathlnf
' '
dresses.
Of course there.nrejharmfiic plaid serge :
to be had , and. pursuing th'e vogue of th <
Scotch stripes to the very water's edge , wt
see undeniably pretty outfits In all thcsi
criss-cross bands of gaudy color. That Is
not only are the skirts and blouses of plalc
flannel or mohair , but with these Illghlam
stripes are worn cops of plaid silk and.brlgh
plaid stockings. A few of such bulls an
decorated with fringe , but so bulky a deco
ration only appeals to the woman who pad
dies daintily In' the" salty shallows.
BntliluK Honlery.
Stars and stripes and rings and bars
characterize the very Ions hose , that , 01
tho. counters call for feminine admlratloi
and patronage. Now It has always beoi
an active grievance of the woman bathe
that unless she wore tight round garters
or a corset with elastic supporters then'
Irom , she had no approved means of glrdlni
on her hose. A stocking all down guyvcil
cs Hamlets , docs not add to one's appearance
anco on the beach , hence many complaint *
Now the manufacturers believe they hav
fulfilled a mission of great benevolence li
offering bathing tights which servo as stock
ings and bloomers In one , button about th
waist and glye tho- limbs great , freedom
These are offered In every color and strip
a woman could craro , und surely deserv
attention , but ninny wondering glances nr
cast at the lonfj lUld thread bathing Blovrs
that roll up beyond the elbow and are Hal
to be an Inspiration of Gallic genius. Ux
cccdlngly pretty , however , are the big re
and blue water bonnets of oiled silk tha
come from Purls , and at TrouvlUe an
Dieppe , we arc told , the smart women wll
wear stockings having a single dlgltatlor
That will bo for the great toe , and , thrdug
the passage.thus opened , delicate thong
will be passed and tied about the nnkl <
These thongs make fast to the foot afU
the Japanese fashion , light sandals of eorl
and not only will the effect prove coquettls
of appearance , but the wearing of such ear
dais , so they say , U Improving to' the shar.
ot the foot.
A Iioiiar FnrevrcH.
The chlrf topic of fashionable interest o
, hand Is the extinction of the tallor-mai !
dress. That useful and long-loved costun-
Is no more. Its close , tidy lit , Its sevci
unbroken lines. Its dignified and pleasai
lack of fussy decoration , all ga\o It n pla <
in the woman's heart and wardrobe that
occupies no longer. Prom Ha noble esta
It has fallen , for the mischievous Inllucm
of the blouse and ruffle overwhelmed at
conquered It.
A bravo woman Is she who in this dt
would order a cloth suit , to bo trlmm <
only with Btltchlngs , a few flat , smootl
laced buttons and , silk arrow heads at h
pocket corners. Her cloth skirt is halt
Spanish flounce , her cloth body has reve
i faced with rows of wee ruffles , turning ba'i
from a breastplate of spangled chiffon ; h
cofls are treated with turquoise blue velvi
a circle of jewels clasp her wnlst. As a !
tanda she la ( It far an afternoon receptli
or a ladles' luncheon , and the tailor drc
Is only a fond recollection.
S } 'U' for Iluyii.
The eligible ago for evening dress wl
little boys has bo u lowered to C ycui
Hardly out of kilts , the youngster Is t
lowed to get Into whlto board-bosom shir
low-cut waistcoat , black unfinished dlagor
knee breeches and n satin-faced Tuxedo
match. Until the ago of 15 th'o boy w
has a sensible mother wears his ku
breeches of an evening and patent Icatto
pumps with black silk hose , a white tlo a
round white enameled studs and cuff bt
tons 'are the adjuncts of this dress , usun
seen at children's parties and dancl
school. Such an outfit ! considered m <
modish for the little fellows than the - . i
veteen Fauntlcroy. and Lou I * XV dresses
the blouse of Mnbroldcred muslin , with t
little bralitaL velvet aulU , to which the
matters laving the Infantile and plcturesq
Nil dtnc.
Foe spring wear many boys under 10 I
MO in smart teoded military capes , falll
tnfy KB taefa ftelow the walK Iln * . bi
with gennan silver knobs from ci
lar to hem , and faced inside with scarlet.
After the first half-score of years have been
passed the well-dressed boy assumes the
dignity of a short box shape covert coat In
every detail n miniature copy of the
one his father wears , with fly front and
four patch pockets on the outside.
Over their first cotton gowns of the sea
son little girls also are wearing-short cape ?
that are wonderfully becoming. These are
made of cashmere , lined with n gayly colored
silk , while their dark blue mixed cheviot
reefers are relieved by brilliant coats of
arms , embroidered on the sleeves and by
dark red cloth cuffs and collars , striped In
whlto braid. Boys and glrla alike , for
stout play-day suits , wear the Invaluable
galatea cloth , and In kilted skirts and
blouse bodies , for an Interval at least , tbc
by a crisp wldo taffeta or soft broad-fringed
Roman sash. This latter is striped only at
the ends , Its fringe ts full six Inches
long , and ono and all the sashes , after
the good old fashion , are tied behind , In big
bows -with generous loops and ends.
II ! tint nit Oil FnNhlolin.
A very fair epitome of youthful fashions
Is given In the accompanying Illustration
of five little people of both sexes. Of the
girls , one wears a charming afternoon dress
of pink flowered muslin , showing two nar
row ruffles on the foot of the skirt. An
oddly shaped yoke ot white embroidery fits
like a shield over the upper half of the
body , and below it a full waist blouses out.
Knots ot pink taffeta ribbon appear at the
point wucro the ribbon belt hooks and on
the shoulders. The sleeves are of embroid
ery to match the yoke , with small puffs of
Bcxes.lnlhe "comfort of1 dress , are > oa
equality , llesldcs the galntea a great deal
of denim. Is npw employed in children's
wardrobes by practical mothers , who make
up playground pinafores , Jumpers and over
alls for the little men and women. The
overalls , strapped on < the shoulders , and cut
exactly on the pattern of' those worn by
houstpalnters , nro made up alike for boys
and girls. To wear these the girl merely
takes off her top skirt and In bifurcated
ease enjoys the same liberty ot movement
as her brother.
Country Moilc * .
On beaches and country lawns the ma
jority of well dressed children under he
tender ago of 14 will wear white or striped
sweaters with their short pique petticoats
and linen trousers. Some of these smart lt- |
tlo knit bodies lace up to ono side , with
red or blue silk cords , and Insldo tbc sailor
collars nro finished by the bicyclist's turtle
neck. There Is absolutely no difference In
cut or finish to bo observed between the
Rolling or bicycling suit n mother and her
10-year-old daughter wears. A huge puff
tic of china silk crosses over the little maid's
chest , a pair of silver dumbbell buttons holds
the cuffs of her shirtwaist together , and
her tyrolenn hat Is circled by a cell of
straw , with a wing spreading to one side ,
in exact Imitation of the maternal outflt.
Whereas the grown women have pushed
sashes aside , as one ot the ephemeral super
fluities of fashion , the very young genera
tion have taken to them vigorously. Nearly
every fashionable small * girl counts as many
as ten in her \yardrober for the smartest
evening dress she can 'wear Is a whlto em
broidered muslin , glr'ded through the middle
muslin on the shoulders. ,
Another pretty' costume Is of1 porcelain
blue and whlto striped pique , having nn
open neck and short sleeves. All the ampli
tude of the full body Is caught In by a wide
blue taffeta sash that tics behind and a
little heavy white embroidery trims the
sleeve puffs and pointed collar.
An apron for a boy or girl of 4 years Is
suggested by the third pettlcoated figure.
The model for this drawing was a dainty
pink chambray , touched up successfully by
bands of scarlet 'embroidery circling belt ,
skirt hem , sleeves and set in yolk squares
at the top of the body.
Over a box-kilted skirt of red linen the
pettlcoated 4-year-old boy wears a diagonal
blouse that is belted with a stiffened lt > ? r.
band of the.same red. Buttons and em
broidery set oft the little suit adequately.
The Russian blouse half ot such a dress , by
many thrifty mothers , Is used as a coat on
occasions , and then the skirt Is buttoned
to a plaited percale skirt.
Warm brown wool crash Is the time
serving material of the suit the larger boy
wears. This a youngster from 6 'to JO can
wear with manly dignity and the sober tint
of the suit Is well relieved by a collar baivl
and vest of marine blue cloth. Anchors are
embroidered on the sleeve and to a t.0
cord a little silver compass and whistle are
attached.
Red , white and blue ts a po'pular combina
tion In bathing dresses this season. The
colors are most becomingly arranged iic-
cordlng to the Illustrated fashion. The skirl
of navy blue , bearing a deep Spanish floi-rro
of red and. the white touched In by lini-s
of braid. As to the waist , the blouse Is blue
serge with a 'do ' blue collar , on which
runs n broad lM ( [ lng of whlto. Tha sailor
collar rolls back to reveal a rest at red ,
and this In turn Is crossed with cords , pass
ing over lnrgffThto ] [ pearl button ? .
A rccd green flannel , made up with a
kilted divided skirl and the full waist show
ing a , broad bcoaitplate of whlto serge , Is
sketched from model French bathing dress.
On the front t Jthls suit's body run two
rows of oyster shejl buttons , being roughly
cut and polished from the lining ot tha very
green tinted shell * of French oysters.
A symphony n , plalds is the third bat'a-
Ing suit given , , and this also ts a most at
tractive French'pattern. . The skirt is slnpic
enough , but th'e body la the thing. This Is
made to stimulate two large kerchiefs of
plaid mohair tied on the shoulders and at
the waist line , thus affording nmplo blouse
and leaving the arms and neck bare.
M. DAVIS.
AN EXAMPLE OF 1IKUOISM.
VitlorniiH Dociln of Women In lie
Knr Kant.
The Bombay aazette ( India ) speaks at
some length of the heroism displayed by
the nurses at the flre which consumed the
plague hospitals at Modykhana. Too much
credit , says the Gazette , cannot bo given to
the plague staff of all grades , from the ward
boys and domestics upward , for the energy
and earnestness with which the work of
* - -1
1 M. ,
RED , GREEN AND SCARLET COSTUMES. " * V
saving life was .conducted. But credit Is
especially due ' "td _ | Siiss "Wlnscbmfie , the
superintendentafina "to" the other English
nurses , Mrs. Campbell , Miss Wood , Miss
Snowdcn , Miss Campbell , Miss C. Brown ,
"Miss Fry and Miss Buckly. All these , except
"
the first named , arrived from England by
the mall .steamer 'Peninsular on the 12th
Inst. , and' had only been placed on duty
for about two days. 4With the exception of
Miss Fry , they each' sustained the entire
loss of the dresses , , jewelry and other prop
erty they had brought with them from Eng
land , their trunks and boxes being in the
large tent at the time ot Its destruction.
They were so engrossed In the hard and
dangerous work of rescuing helr patients
;
from being burned to death that they were
entirely regardless of their own losses , which
in the cose of Miss Wood Included a valuable
diamond ring. They were to be seen carryIng -
Ing the patients In their arms'to places ot
safety , and doing it all with a quiet presence
of mind that was beyond praise. Ono of the
number when reminded that her belongings
were being destroyed , said : "I cannot leave
my patients to dlo meroly'because of that. "
The example of devotion to duty thus set
was followed by other members of the staff
and the nurses have the satisfaction of
knowing that theli1 labors were so far suc
cessful that , although tee flames spread with
great speed , not "one of .the 100 patients
whose lives were endangered was burned , or
even so'much as injured by the flames. It is
perhaps invidious to mention names where
all worked so nobly , but Miss Snowden was
particularly noticed carrying one patient
under each arm , with a strength that seemed
given her for the occasion , while the flames
were leaping around her. A better example
could not possibly tmvo been furnished ot
female heroism than that supplied
on that Saturday by thcso now
arrivals from the old country. "Wo
only bavo what wo stand up in , " .said
ono of the number when asked whether
her property was safe. Their losses Include
the destruction ot their certificates of di
ploma , but Sir James Campbell has under
taken to wrlfb to the authorities at homo
explaining the circumstances ot the loss
and asking for duplicate certificates , which
will doubtless readily bo granted. ly di
rection of the plague committee thcso
women were provided with accommodation
at the Esplanade hotel. Several ot them
were qulto unwell yesterday owing to the
reaction following on the excitement and
danger to which they were exposed on the
previous afternoon. The good work per
formed by Mrs. Roughton who has for some
time past been a volunteer nurse at
Modykhana and by several ot the Anglo-
Indian nurses also deserve grateful men
tion.
tion.Tho
The war between Greece and Turkey has
passed Into history and Is no more talked
of , yet the Greek women have not forgot
ten the part that American women took In
the affair. Their American representative ,
Solon J , Vlasto , has come recently from
Athens to New York , with the commission
ot conveying the thanks ot the Greek women
to those who helped them last year. I
cannot find language strong enough , " Mr.
Vlasto says , "to express the feeling of the
Greek women for the Americans. During
the war the queen publicly expressed her
gratitude at the meetings ot the union ot
Greek women ; and the president and everyone
ono connected with the union begs mo to
convey their message of thanks to these
who so generously helped them. "
Since the close of the war the Greek
women have continued their organization
and are finding plenty to do In caring for
widows and orphans and for Thcssallan
refugees. They recently exported a quan
tity of Greek goods to London to be - sold
for the lieiieilt of the refugees at the Greek
Bureau of Industries , of which the prlucoas
of Wales Is patroness. At the suggestion
of the king they have also started a fund
for the widows and orphans of the war ,
and his majesty has handed over to them
for this purpose $25,000 from the funds
that have been sent to him from different
foreign countries for philanthropic uses.
Every one , from the king down to his hum
blest subject , fully recognizes the value ol
the work the women did during the war ,
and Mr. Vlasto Is of the opinion that It was
"more and better" than that of the men.
MIHSES FOR THE AHMV.
Women Wlio Hiive Ilccit AMkcil to
EnllMt by Uncle Sum.
"There are no trained army nurses In this
country , " said Lieutenant Brown of the
surgeon general's staff , when questioned as
to the cnre to bo given our wounded soldiers
during war with Spain. "It Is easy to find
two very good reasons for this fact. One Is
that there has been no Inducement to women
to study this branch of the profession. The
second reason Is that there Is no place In
this country where women can secure ade
quate training for army service.
"Tho only way in which the government
can mnko sure of a corps of competent
nurses on which to rely In time of war Is to
establish for this purpose a training school ,
along lines somewhat similar to these fol
lowed In the great English hospital at Net-
ley , where for the last forty-five years Brit
ish army nurses have received their training.
This school should bo located In the na
tional capital and might DO conducted In the
same manner as the military academy at
West Point. That Is to say , the women ap
pointed to the school could bo' educated at
j government expense , on condition of giving
their services for a term of years. After that
if they wished to resign they could do so
and would then form a reserve force on
which the government could draw in case
of war.
"Tho course In such n school would bo
divided into hospital and field work In the
hospitals In preparing and applying band
ages , treatmg fevers and other diseases apt
to be prevalent In camps , and administering
anesthetics ; that part of the course devoted
to field work to teach the nurses first aid on
the battlefield , how to put up a field hos
pital , etc. For the benefit of the navy a
training ship would be provided on which
the nurses could become familiar with work
on shipboard and -with the conditions to bo
met In sea duty.
i "In such a school as is hero briefly out
lined the nurses must form an Integral
part of the army and navy. Just as the
1 surgeons do now. They would bo under
military discipline , wear a distinctive army
uniform , bo eligible to promotion and deco-
i ration , and , after a certain length of serv
ice , to retirement on part pay. After cora-
1 pletlng their training In the school they
could be assigned to the different army
posts and hospitals , in order to obtain prac
tical experience.
"As in the cose of West Point and An
napolis , such an Institution could not but
prove of benefit to the army and navy by
giving women the most thorough training ,
BOSTON STORE - DRUG DEPT ,
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a training which many probably would never
be. able to secure otherwise. The project
has been suggested In military circles more
than once before , but nothing over came
of U because the lawmaklng branch of the
government could not sco the necessity of
such a provision. "
Just now , however. In the absence of n
regularly organized corps of trained army
nurses , the government Is relying upon the
various schools where nurses are Instructed.
While much of the work of caring for the
sick and wounded In the field will bo left
to the Red Cross , the heads of the army
are preparing a staff of nurses to accom
pany the troops when they move south , and
to care for the Injured In the military hos
pitals. The way In which these nurses
have been obtained Is the same as that
In which the surgeons for the volunteer
corps of the army and navy have been sup
plied. Through the different hospitals and
schools the surgeons general secured the
names of a largo number of nurses who have
recently completed their training. To all of
these enlistment blanks are sent , with the
request that the nurses who felt so disposed
should fill them out , Indicating whether the
government could call for their services
whenever needed. Some of the agreements
were for Immediate service , others for en
listment after three or six months.
A largo number of replies , several hundred
In all , have been sent In. Some of the sign
ers say that they will go at once , others
\ FOR COUNTRY WEAR.
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that their services can bo bad after July
1 , and so on. Thcso have all been filed
away at Washington , and as fast as a de
mand for nurses arises they will bo acted
upon.
The work of the nurses will begin with
the actual commencement of hostilities.
War under modern conditions is so llttlo
known that It Is Impossible to tell how great
Inroads sickness and wounds will make In
our ranks. But the government proposes
to be prepared for any emergency. If our
army moves Into Cuba , It will be accom
panied by a detachment of the Red Cross ,
under Miss Barton. Most of the field work
will be left to the members of the Red
Cross , who will cnro for Americans , Cubans
or Spaniards , as necessity may require. The
trained nurses who have volunteered di
rectly under the command of the surgical
department o'f the army and navy will bo
sent to Key West , Tampa , or other points
where hospitals may be established.
Every woman who served ns a nurse durIng -
Ing the civil war has been besieged by a
host of. inquiries from her earnest young
sisters , who want to help In the present
struggle. After ft. lecture at ono of tha
schools the other day a lot of the girls gath
ered about Mrs. Ellen Opp , a pleasant , gray-
hatred woman , who acted as a nurse In tha
conflict In ' 61.
"I shall never forget my first oxperlenca
with a wounded man , " , said Mrs. Opp , with
a smile. "It was after the battle of Bull
Run and I had just arrived In Washington.
I had cared for sick persons , but never seen
more blood than would come from a cut
finger. The first man brought Into my sec
tion was a soldier. Ills leg had been shot
away. His clothing was all bespattered with
blood and the sight of that and.tho tcrrlbla
wound made mo feel , more deadly faint than
I ever did before or since. My limbs almost
gave \ > ay beneath me and I leaned against
tbo wall to keep from falling. In splto ol
the pain he was suffering the soldier no
ticed how palo I became. Raising his hand
In a half salute ho said faintly :
" 'Nurse , could you get mo a llttla
water ? '
"That brought mo to myself. I could at
least carry water and I ran back and forth
with a cup , bringing a drink to every
wounded man who was brought In. As soon
ns I learned what to do I got over my feel
ing of raininess. There Is nothing like worll
to conquer such a weakness.
"Speaking ot water ; that's the great re
quirement of men who are wounded on a
battlefield. A drink of water will usually
relieve them more than anything else tha
nurse can do for them. The next thing Is
to get them Into a comfortable position. In
the civil war men who weroshot , often tell
forward on their faces and smothered In the
grass before anybody could reach them.
They should bo turned over on their backs
or sides and It an arm or leg Is broken It
should be placed as nearly as possible In a
natural position , until the surgeon comes.
If there la a bleeding wound It must ot
course be temporarily bandaged.
"After all. the best thing that n woman
can do for the sick and wounded Is to bring
them hope and courage by her presence and
by the attentions that only a woman knowa
how to give. "
\VAII TIME : FADS OF KIHLS. i
Nntlniml Color * FlKiirr ISxtnmlvelr la
the Tolli'lN of the Piinlilonnlile.
Whereas tbero Is now war , if not Immo- > c
dlately In this land Itself , yet near at band ,
and to be waged , In part at least , by men
they know thoroughly and bavo danced and
flirted with , the girls of New York bava
taken on a martial spirit. They talk battle
and campaign , fort snd cruiser , torpedo boat
I and big guns Incessantly , and 10 eager ars
' they that tha very fashions and fads , thi
knick-knacks and novelties of the moment
all smack of tbo army and navy.
Hardly a girl of "the sets" Is to be founfl
who Is not military or navtl In some waft
reports the New York Herald. The " § err
Ice" Is to be noticed la her costume , In ' oaf
bedroom , and In the parlor of her b'ous * .
fihe to setted wltb the enthusiasm of the nooi