Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, January 09, 1898, Editorial Sheet, Page 10, Image 10

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    10 THE OMAHA DAILY SUNDAY. JANFA11Y J ) , 1808.
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NBW YORK , Jan. C. Fashion , like his
tory , repeats Itself , ( or hero we have and
Increasing dally In numbers trains to the
right of un , trains to the left of tig. This Is a
dismal beginning for the now year , and the
only consolation lies In the very obvious
fact that the buntlo Is not to bo revived.
Some unscrupulous persons , as lacking In
authority as In heart or conscience , have
aroused a rumor to the effect that this dis
tressful lend was about to bo laid Again on
the long-suffering feminine back. Uul such
Is positively not the case. It Is enough that
in the course of a few weeks every thrifty ,
cleanly woman will be obliged to carry the
tall of her gown over her arm , while the
rich or untidy ones will1 be dragging hand-
nome pottlcoaU through dust and mire , just
ns they did six short years ago.
So fur , the evil has only penetrated to the
drawing room , and nil the new ball and din-
tier dresses have long and undeniably lovely
tralla , with sash ends draping out to their
very Ups , What a boon the Bash Is , by the
way ! "If she who has but one plain black
cvcnln ? dress to her nnmo will make half a
dozen sashes for It she can almost boast half
n dozen brand new expressions of her somber
costume.
Let her make ono sash of black satin rlb-
lion about flvo or nU Inches wide , cut the
bottom ends In swallow tall forks , and then
powder the two lengths of ribbon with moon
light spangles. At her waist the ribbon Is
moat suitably sewed In two big , poppy-
Bhaped rosettes , with centers of close-massed
ends , for a space of twelve Inches up , orna-
jiipntod with llttlo spaced chllToii rulllcs.
Make a third sash of green liberty silk , the
ends knotted and holding small clusters of
flowers Pale gray crepe il cli're ' , fringed
AVI 111 violets. Is a model sash , and can , like
a good green -snlnil , lie tossed up at home.
HATS OF FUIl.
Dcsido getting all the effects possible by
the use of many sashes on one dress , an ex
cellent nlr of novelty Is achieved by clipping
out the sleeves of an evening gown and nil-
Ing In the throat. It Is rarely that one sew
nowadays a body at once sleeveless and dccol.
lete , for the rule HCCIIIS to be. If the neck
la high , then no sleeves , while If long
sleeves are worn , then the neck must be
open. It la a pretty notion at the moment
to wear sleeves of some transparent goods ,
lightly spangled , to do away with all puffs
or rufllcs on the shoulders and finish the
slcevo tops by broad black velvet bands.
The last extravagant caper of fashion la
the fur bit. Aa IT felt and velvet were not
rich enough cronce for her curly coiffure
itlio smart woman , since Chrlsmas , has been
Been l'i picture liats of tcalskln' . broadtail
and other close lying furs. Their beauty
and costllnces arc beyond dispute , for the
wide fur brims are looped with gorgeous
plus of true gems , and long ostrich plumes
curl nmd swathe In fe.ithery clouds -about
HIP brims and crowns Young girls wear
these splPMllil headpiece' when calling , but
the popuMr small morning hat of fur Is
either a roil ml cossack's cap of Persian lamb
With pin of talisman turquoises on ono side ,
hair Ing a tuft of feathers , or a smooth beaver
bcrretta , with a pin and i tuft
of feathers upstanding almost In
front. A berrettu has undoubtedly a
very priestly air about It , for pluck It of Its
ornaments and a Homan Catholic prelate
could wear it with becoming dignity.
THIS TOILCT HAT.
Attention Is politely called , Insplto of
the abovementioned eccentricities , to the
model wldo hat pictured this week. It Is
what we technically know os a "toilet hat , "
a soft , dark green felt , trimmed with a
wreath of plaited black net and an arc of
jialo bine velvet roses. There Is a knot of
the roses behind , and the flesh and blood
owner of this gem were , as lntho sketch , a
fur bow , which Is every whit as fashionable
a cieck protector ae the everlasting shower
of fur tails. The girl who goes out of nights
Bets , It seems , < is high a price on her head
as the patron of the fur hat , and brightly
colored or curly hair Is no longer alone
considered an all-sulilclent decoration. Hero ,
for Instance , among the downy things flt
for a dancer's topknot. Is a pompom formed
of palo lavender feathers sprinkled with
rliinwtono chips , and out of It curls a gal
lant white osprey tlwt looks as If glittering
with sections of dewdropa. Again an adorn'-
onnnt of beauty Is a tiny aigrette , amid which
a jeweled butterfly has found foothold. Just
a * lovely and within any one's reach Is a
big pink rose , out of thu heart of which
springs a rose aigrette.
NEW TAILOR TOILETS.
As If there were no end to combinations
the tailors arc braiding aiavy and gendarme
'blue ' cloth costumes with u narrow hard ,
white wool braid and giving them vesta of
violet-colored silk. At least they show
such things as tbolr spring Indications and
are maklr/g their prettiest coats with double
rovers , ono of cloth and then over this a
Hinallcr one of silk.
The term now used on nil sides Is the
"modified Hussion" blouse , which means that
less and less are waists to bo pouched In
front , just as the Scotch plaid Is presently
Kolng to give way before an army of small
chocks. Fine red and black and preen arid
( brown , with blue and yellow checks , will
soon appear In the new tweeds and cheviots
and Instead of braiding ns extensively as last
year wo arc teen to bo running after the
fashion cf cording our outer garmentA
few corded gowns are already oil exhibition ,
the ridges are raised In groups of a dozen
over each hip only , or In encircling clusters ,
at Intervals of an Inch or two , tic entire
depth of a petticoat. Tht- cording Is wisely
diversified by raising small or merely thread
like ridges and treating ccat lapels , collars ,
cuffs , etc. , with this simple , but most effec
tive , adornment , that Is much less expensive
than braiding.
A CORDED GOW.V.
The cording lends Itself most kindly to the
decoration of the new skirl that , as the largo
sketch shows this week , Ismade In two
pieces. One , the upper half , fits about I'.io
hips llko a sheath and across the back al
most without a wrinkle. The lower half , for
all Its fullness , { rusts entirely to the fact
that It Is cut on the bias and where It Is set
onto the top portion If rows of fur do not
cciiccal the connection then from three to
flvo cords are run In. Thus an absolutely
novel hang and fit In Hie art of skirt making
Is arrived at and by the cut of your petti
coats < iow critical women judge whether a
alsler woman Is within or beyond the pale
of the mode.
Your basque or bodlco Is a matter of small'
moment besldo It and miles * out for shtcnlciq
or sporting bent yotr skirt must be trimmed.
Cords , braid , fur bands , tucks , a sash , some
thing must assume the effect of drapery , and
If you are going to have but ono dress to u < ? o
for weddings , luncheons , teas , calls , etc. ,
don't select anything but gray. Settle on a
cashmere , or dra ] > d'ete , because It will bo a
faultless spring suit and the nearer the
season grows towards lent the more gray
will be worn. The furriers knowing this aru
selling bread tall In Its natural color , a lovely
mouse gray , and with this sober tone tur-
qUnlso blue Is combined.
In contrast to this fur , that costs some
thing more than Its weight In silver , at
least , the prettiest little sets of cuffs and col
lars of American raccoon and cnossum skin
arc among the nice things shown by the man
who deals In pelts. Raccoon and opossum
skins are among the cheapest we have ; they
have been suddenly found by t'.io queens o
fashion to possess virtues of true beauty , and
beside being made Into garments , much of I
is selling for dress trimming. Besides this
very economical novelty wo nru using the
skins of wolf cubs fcr smart winter capo am
adjustable ccat collars. The pelts of full-
grown wolves are usually adapted to heavy
carriage carvets and coachmen's capes , bu
the cub wolf supplies a silky black , or gray
cr brown pelt , as attractive as that of thu cub
bear , which , In the days when fur boas were
worn , waa admirably adapted for this i > ur-
pose.
FOR EL-DEiRLY DAMES.
Elderly ladles , those who really consen
to acknowledge their accumulated years and
drtss accordingly , are wearing most appro
prlnto and lovely evening gowns of blaclc
satin , trimmed with narrow bands of er
mine. All their skirts are considerably
trained , and over 'tho hips the satin Is laU
lu three deep plaits. This usually throws
the front width Into the form of a pane
that , when expense is no consideration , Is
overlaid with black net lightly embrolde.rei
over with cut steel beads. It Is the edges of
the plaits that show the ermine hands. Long-
shlrted , close-fitting 'basques are adapted to
such a skirt pattern , and square rovers
large and : fur-edged , turn back from a front
of draped , steel-beaded net.
Among elderly women of great social prom
Inunco .It has 'become almost a unlversa
custom to wear white to all evening func
tlons. Gorgeous white brocaded sailns , Ivory
white velvets and corded silks , made hlgl
In the neck , long of sleeve , and worn with
| abundant garniture of lace , chiffon , whlto
I flowers and jewels , have 'been conspicuous
I at dinners , In the chaperoncs' row at balls
and wherever else of an evening elderly
ladles take their social pleasures. Undoubt
cdly the cITcot Is stately , suitable , most dec
oratlve and singularly very becoming to
venerable hair and faces , while jiidlc'ous
drapery goes far toward concealing defects
of figure , but this 'is a fashion only adapted
to women of wealth.
At a wedding reception given but recently
the bride's revered women relatives were
black , or gray gowns of silk satin and some
of cashmere only , but charmingly trtmmei
with an abundance of white lisle. The 'bride's
mother , a lady of GO and odd years , appearec
in a trained gown of pearl colored cashmere
with narrow flutes of whlto llslo peeping
from beneath the edges of her skirt's side
plaits , while the front panel of her sklr
was laid over with narrow violet colorei
velvet ribbon running In points. Picture will
this a waist with a vest of violet velvet am
a great white chiffon kerchief , edged will
many flutlngs of llsse , draped over the
shoulders , and allowed to fall free 'half way
to the knees. On the'bust and shoulders bows
of violet velvet held the kerchief to the
waist , and to complete this Ideal mother's
costume a stately turban of violet and Hsso
was placed atop "the " lady's whlto hair.
It Is a happy fact that the turban has blun
dered somehow jnto great patronage with
women who are admittedly getting beyond
their prime , and at scarce a reception or In
door entertainment have the mothers of debu
tantes failed to appear In commanding heail
pieces of velvet and lace , feathers , ribbons
and oven the most delicate flowers. In no
BCIISO arc these turbans to bo confused with
caps. Crinoline Is their foundation and they
are erected Individually to suit , each one , the
TWO BIRDS OF PLUMAGE.
face It crowns. Lovely turbans arc made
from old family laces with eprayn of heather ,
tufts of violets or a llttlo knot of tinted
plumes , perhaps an aigrette to enliven the
whole , and for a woman who 1'acks statel *
ness "of carriage or abundant hair , a turban
U a wonderfully Offsetting attribute of the
toilet.
NEW FANS.
Christmas undoubtedly inndo wonderful
revelations In the matter of new fans , for
everywhere In the holiday shopping season
the most surprising novelties wererovcalcd. .
Long may the pretty girl wave her hew cock
feather fan that folds four llmca on pearl
sticks , or Is n fixed circle of snowy cock
Illumes , mounted on a single handle of carved
Ivory. These are the special toys of beauty
that have checkmated wholly the long rever
enced , ostrich feather -fan. The longest and
choicest cock plumes are selected for these
now bits of toilet bric-a-brac , and to the
metal clasp that holds the sticks together Is
hung a line gilt chain , on which Is strung
a pretty tiny crystal , or silver gilt salts bot-
tlo. These are essentially the fans of great-
cat luxury , while less exacting women wave
very pretty ones of satin , thickly embrold
ered , over in mock jewels.
Still less expensive are the silk and papo
fans , painted with flocks of cuplds on bl
cycles , wheeling on the road to Arcady , Cupid
como to grief on his wheel , or In fact any
of the whole series of fans that represent the
trials and Joys of the god of love on his
safety. -M. DAVIS.
THIS dtiuic riioi os.ii iiHcoiti ) .
A YlrKlnlii Olrl'M UnliiiiiiHxporlenei. .
Wlllli'I'rilVflInK III Ili'lurliiiu.
A Virginia girl believes 'that ' she has
Broken what might bo called the "quick
proposal record , " A few years ago , before
icr marriage , she was traveling abroad with
an invalid friend. They were on their way
rom iirussels to Amsterdam and the only
other occupant of their coach was a rather
1110 looking man , who had settled himself
n t.'m corner ,
They paid no attention to him , 'but chatted
away 'together. Miss W finally wanted a
pencil to make r < ut some accounts and after
loaklnj : through their fcafis found that they
had neglcctPiV'to 'bring ono with them. The
stranger , who Tti4 ! been watching their move
ments Intently , ticVe offered his , very cour-
temisly. In a tew minutes he spoke to them
again about a terrible railroad accident which
lad Just occu't.rb 'Jn ' lEngland.
Conventionalities arc usually thrown to
the winds In traveling , and the man was so
evidently a gentleman that'Miss ' \ \ ' and her
companion tatli'cd kith him very pleasantly
for some time. 119. sp.oke English very bro
kenly , but ? III1.\VBS a'blo to express himself
< julte well , and' told them many Interesting
things of lilST hatlve country , Olelglum ,
through wIilchtW | ( > y were passing. IJut ho
addressed Mmsolf more and more particu
larly to MIss'i'W-MHantl by his manner and
looks showed Ve y' ' plainly that he admired
her , Her friend 'could not help becoming
amused , and when at a smalt station two
French army officers cnlerpJ their carriage ,
they were Intensely amused , too.
'Miss ' W drotf back and parried his re
marks , but ns she grew cold ho grow warm.
Ho was so perfectly well bred about It that
the poor girl did not know what to do and
then the amusing sldo was very apparent to
her , too. She was conscious all the time of
the smiling odlcers opposite , and Jicr em
barrassment was augmented. The man now
began to tell -her of himself. Ho had a
house In 'Brussels ' , and a country place out
side , and a 'beautiful chateau somewhere In
France. Ho had been married , ho said , but
his wife had died some years before. Ho had
two children. As 'he finished he exclaimed :
"And would you not llko to live In Europe ? "
Miss W shook her head ; the ofllcors tit
tered audibly. Hut the man was too much In
earnest to heed.
"Ah , " ho Mid , "you must forgif mo for
speaking' to you so soon , so soon but the
time Is so short ! O , If'I could only speak
the English ! You must not thlnlc that 1
haf not respect for you. How can I show
you that I haf respect ? If you will come
back to Brussels I will haf my slstor call
upon you. She Is the wife of the mlnlatalr.
That will show you how I haf respect for
you ! If a man half his sister call , that tshow
that ho haf respect. 0 , If I could only speak
the English ! " And he beat bis bead.
Then bo continued :
"Tho tlmo Is so wliort , " ho said. "That
Is the reason that I speak so will you
cot tell me your name ? Or the name of
your fader ? Tbon I will write to him and
tell him about myself , Is not that the way
to do ? I will prove to him that all I toll
you Is true , "
Miss W shook her head again. But
the poor man continued to pour out a tor
rent of prayers and , entreaties. And ho
pleaded his case , , 'vo.ry , well , Mlsa W
never for a mlnutoi doubted the sincerity of
every word lie spoke , and she rather liked
the f remit , earnest 'way In which ho went
about It and trusted Jn. . her not to mlsun-
blggest catches In Brussels , everything ho
toi.l jxiu Is true. His social peo'.tlon Is very
high , and he la. besides , quite an Important
public" character , holding several offices. "
Miss \V still posswses the beautiful
Belgian photographs. In fact , they are hung ,
framed. In the business offlce of her Ameri
can husband.
lUtr.AI ) AMI IIITTKH.
II < MV ti > Kuril llndi liy KilnlillntiliiK n
SiirrcaNfiil 'nrPMHiiiiiUInK IIIRIIIX .
No one can mike a fortune In the drcsi-
making business unless possessed of natural
talent for the trade , lint a woman may become -
como a ne.it scam&trcas , n good fitter and a
successful modlsto through experience and
hard work. Thereiore , some practical ad
vice as to starting In , on such nn enterprise
may not como nmlsa.
A small capital Is necessary to cither buy
out an old business or organize a new one.
At least $300 ( jhould bo banked at the outset
to occure the payment of novornl months'
rent , the cash purchase of goods at whole-
ealn , and the weekly salaries of assistants.
Even the best of customers are apt to be
slow In paying their dressmaker's bills , and
It Is unwise to antagonize valuable patronage
by Importunity for money. A small amount
of cash economically expended will go far
THE ERMINE BOW.
deretand him.
A diversion' ' now 'canlo. ' They had reached
the boundary bcty'eeri ; "Belgium and Holland
and their baggage muqt be seen to. Their
now found frleiud ami suitor jumped out
with them , helped them find their trunks
and then simply rtark'ed them all with a
chalk cross. Thapn1e"als ) passed them by
without question. iTho women wondered , but
felt thankful , and Returned to their coach.
Then ho began agjln' ( ' . ' Ho said his narao
was Van 0 , anilt that ho would < 3o any
thing to show lils'i deep-respect and regard.
His oft reiterated Pl.M'J118 were tnat "tho
tlmo was so ehort , ' $ $ tLat " 'lo ' coul < 1 not
epeak the English , " upon which ho would
beat hla head with his hand , MlasV
continued obdurate , She steadily refused to
; ivo him her 'name and address , and when
: Uey reached Amsterdam ho bade them a
mournful farewell ,
But In some way bo bid heard them
mention tbo name of the hotel ln > Paris at
which they were going to stop. With the
ngenully born of love he scot there a long
missive In the care of the proprietor , with a
tnlnuto description of Mlsu W . With U
were some beautiful photographs of his va-
rloiw lands and , residences ,
MUs W Beat him a formal note of
hanks , to which cho signed her namo. This
irought a number of passionate epistles In
which he urged bis suit with redoubled ve
hemence. She never answered them.
Some time afterward Mlts W met a
relative of hero who had spent some time
n Ilrussels , It occurred to her to auk him
about her Belgian friend , eo she described
him and mentioned liU name ,
"Why , " said her cousin , "he's one of the
to smooth the Inevitable disagreeables of the
first half year , and It Is very hazardous to
make the experiment unless ono has tbo
money In hand. i
PERSONAL QUALIFICATIONS.
The. dressmaker proposing to begin busi
ness In a medium-sized town must cither
understand a good fitting system or engage
an assistant who does. The latter plan adds
greatly to the expense , as a fitter draws a
largo salary In comparison lo the prices paid
for the making of gowns , and this can bo
saved by the proprietor doing this work her
self. The fitter should also cut out the lin
ing and outstdo stuff and stitch up the
seams. '
I am talking or a modest start where four
persons will constitute the force , the owner ,
who should cut and flt each article , also
stitch the waist seams ; her assistant , who
must bo able to finish up the Inside of a
waist and trim It as wall , and a second an-
Hlstant to take the skirts In hand ; finally the
young girl who can run errands , carry the
work home , pull out bastings , and often
learns the first rudiments of the trade by
doing such odd jobs. The fall of the year
Is the best tlmo to commence , from Septem
ber 1 , to bo ready for custom , as the autumn
reason Is longer than that of spring.
In settling upon a town , toke ono of a
thriving middle class population , as In a
small wealthy community ladles are apt to
go to the nearest largo city for their shop
ping and dressmaking. If possible go where
you have ono or two Influential friends ,
uiougti tnero is no need ot uoing discour
aged If you are a stranger In the place.
Toke rooms on a convenient thoroughfore ,
furnish neatly. You will need a fitting and
reception room. If the latter Is cufllclcntly
1 largo , dlvldo It by screens so as to shield the
workwomen from sight. A customer dislikes
to sco her work In full view of every ono
coming In , and this desire far secrecy re
garding a new gown la all the more pro
nounced In a small place.
SKILLFUL ADVERTISING.
Having eet'tled upon the town and rooms ,
next call on the wives ; of 'tho clergymen and
enlist their good graces , especially your own
church representative. It will pay to malto
them a gown below the usual prlca to In
troduce your work. Then Interview the dry
goods' merchants , -tell them you are starting
a butilnou and will pitronlzo them If mu
tually agreeable , Make arrangements to buy
linings and general dressmaking notions by
( ho piece , 'thus get1.'ing a wholesale price ; on
goods bought by the yard or singly the
dressmakers' discount of G to 10 per cent will
bo given. Interest a few ofthe women clerks
In your work , and they form a capital means
of advertising your business , and lost , but
not least , Insert at Intervals a small card Iti
tiio dally papers.
Should ! the merchant object to selling you
the goods at wholesale , send to a regular
jobber In a city , who will always sell by the
pleco , box or dozen , to a dressmaker. Try
to furnish all linings , bonoa , thread , etc. ,
commonly culled " 'findings , " to your cus
tomers , and do It for a. certain sumIn / place
of sending ou't bills with every book and
spool of thread itemized. Have ono grade ot
findings for a gowu to cost Jl , Including per- ,
callno for skirt , haircloth foeltts , bias VP-
vctetn bliillng , finer percallne or sllesla
waist llnkix , spool silk , thread , acorn binding ,
covered stays , shields , webbing felt , el'1.
everything of a gel quality. A lower grade ,
at $2.50 , win of necessity be of cheaper ma
terials. Ths ! > glvca ' .he dressmaker a profit
on the plcco goods Mid the net sum as well.
Any purchases rr.ado hji a customer In 110
name of the dressmaker alss brings a dli-
count to the latter. When a dressmaker
shows goad taste and honesty In her pur
chases customers ere soon Inclined to allow
her ( o do the ordering for ineni , atid this
extra profit Is uot to be despised.
ORGANIZATION.
The assistant engage when you begin prep-
araticns , itho others may bo secured ns the
work comes In. One of these must be a good
hand worker ; hand eewlng Is fast becoming
a lost art , but the Inside finishings of a gown
need It. IX ] not allow familiar chatting be
tween thp tielp and customers. Promise work
only for the time that It csn bo delivered and
keep your nopolntmcnts for fitting. A mourn
ing order takes precedence of other engage
ments , but lot no other excuse servo for send
ing a gown lipnio on Saturday that was
promised for Wednesday.
Prices must agree with the customs of the
town ; they can bo raised after a trade Is
gained provided the work Is perfectly satis
factory. Dress neatly for your work and as
smartly as possible , for new customers are
Inclined to Judge her capacities by the dress-
mahpr'n own appearance. Cultivate i > atlcnco ,
tact and guarded speech , as well ns Individ
uality In the work. It you can make every
woman look more attractive In a gown of
your designing then your future success Is
assured.
Deliver your work carefully and attrac
tively done up and send a bill with every
finished gown. At the end of each month
send out another bill , ami from the fir si In
sist upon prompt payment. After one season's
work you will bettor understand the people
of the town and probably ir.ako various ad
vantageous changes. Keep up your courage
and receive people cheerfully , remembering
that doctors and dressmakers hear of every
one's Ills , but are not supposed to possess
any of their own , from a customer's point of
view. A manufacturing town Is considered
a good place for the dressmaking and mll-
incry business and the two are often most
profitably combined. Several good fashion
papers are among the necessities of the bus
iness and ctiu must keep ut > to date In new
fabrics , colors , trimmings , etc. Self-cultiva
tion must go on constantly , or the dress
maker will never grow beyond the drudging ,
poverty-stricken stage.
TIM :
NounI'nliilH on ( lie llrst 'Mulct-In ' ! mill
HIMV to Cnri > fur 11.
In buying an umbrella you must take It on
"alth , for the most experienced shcoper can
not tell how It will wear. Silk of a smooth
.affeta weave Is a good purchase end light to
ry. Gloria makes a heavier umbrella , but
I outwears any s'lk ' make. No matter what
ho material may be. however , never keep It
itranied , except when It Is carried. Keeping
t tightly rolled up destroys half of Its dura-
bid qualities. When wet , dry an umbrella
by standing It with the handle down so as to
prevent rusting t'.ie frame work , aa happens
when the water runs off the other end and
collects at the top.
AVIien nearly dry do not open the umbrella
or It will stretch out of slicoo while drying.
Wlpo off the handle when ready to put away ,
ublng a piece , of chamois If there Is any sil
ver about It. Sometimes a blue or green um
brella spots when lightly wet ; In such a case
cyen it and set out In the first hard rain , the
spots disappearing when It Is thoroughly
dampened.
To furl an umbrella properly grasp It firmly
at the lower end of the rltxs with the right
baud , holding them perfectly straight and
even , and do not allow them to twist while
you shako out the folds ; next wrco them
evenly around the stick with the left hand
and finally fasten the strap over a smo&tli ,
firmly rolled umbrella.
If either black silk or gloria become spot
ted with mud , etc. . clean with a bit of old
silk dipped Into warm water and ammonia.
If colored silk needs cleaning , do it with a
rag of the same color and ncghtha , remem
bering that the latter Is very explosive. If
grease gets on the silk , remove with mag
nesia , rubbing It In and allowing It to remain
for twenty-four hours. Naphtha also removes
grease , but this liquid cannot be purchased
everywhere and magnesia can.
Ft-in I ii 111 r IVrxoiiiilH.
The coronation of Queen Wilhelmlna of
Holland has been officially fixed for Tuesday ,
September C , 1898. The ceremony of taklna
the oath will bo performed In the new
Church of ( Amsterdam.
Queen Victoria's third daughter , the Prin
cess Christian of Schleswlg-Holsteln , belongs
to choral societies in London and Windsor
which give public concerts in which she takes
part.
"Jennie Juno , " recently appointed public
school inspector of New York , Is the dean of
newspaper women. It was she who orig
inated the modern "syndicate letter" and es
tablished the first regular woman's depart
ment In a dally paper.
The youthful duchess of Mnrlborough , says
an English journal , has the American love
of shopping , and when In London Is fre
quently seen In IlondBtreet , going about from
shop to shop , and always faultlessly and becoming - '
comingattired. ! .
A woman graduate of Co'umbla ' college
turns her collegiate education to practical
account by acting as coach In Greek and
Latin to aspirants for baccalaureate honors ,
having among her pupils not only women ,
but a goodly number of inalo students ue
well.
well.A
A society woman of St. Louis recently re
turned from Europe and laughingly boasted
of the way in which she smuggled In a hand
some unset diamond. She put the stone In
a stick of chewing gum and chewed Industri
ously , She got through without any trouble ,
Miss Leonora Jackson , the talented young
Chicago girl who won the Mendelssohn annu
ity prize , at the Berlin High School for Mu
sic a few weeks ago and who Is deemed by
Maestro Joachim the most marvelous violin
ist ho over has taught , la winning further
laurels In England and Germany.
When Miss Murfreo ( Charles Egbert Crad-
dock ) first began to attract attention her
publisher had. never seen her and supposed
lier books were the work of a lawyer. Ho
was much surprised ono day to so a women
walk up to his desk and announce In a
businesslike tone that she was Charles Eg
bert Craddock.
It Is said that Mr. ? . Jessie Huston , who
lives on the Hustcnvlllo plko , near Huston-
vlllo , Ky. , had not until last month spent a
Oay away from homo In twentythreeyears
not because she couldn't , nor because of
any eccentricity , but Just because ( -'he loves
her homo and wants to be thcro to do her
work.
The princess of Wales rctataa a marvelous
appcaranco of youth , and at a distance Is
often mistaken by oven those who know her
personally for ono of her own daughters ,
Loth of whom greatly resemble their charm
ing mother In feature and carriage.
Annie and Mary Wilson arc the names of
two young women living near WllmerdliiR
who earn a good living by splitting rails
and gott'ng ' out pit posts. They do all of
the work themselves , rapidly and apparently
with as much case as they would run a
typewriter ,
\nifx.
Velour grns grain Is a new silk highly
recommended for skirts , It U very rich and
soft , with a flnlsti llko velvet.
Various features of fancy dress are belnr ;
Introduced into bridesmaids' costumes In
England , and the pollchlnelle headgear Is
said 'to he very effective. Small parafcols of
( lowers , flora I muff ? , or a Khoe filled with
blossoms arc ranted In place of thu conven
tional bouquet ,
Styles changn frequently In men's visiting
cards an well as in women's , and there has
been a marked change lately. iNot ono mar
ried man nut ot ten buys Ills own cards , and
EO wives have to keep up with the now wrin
kles for men as well as with their own.
Ono of 1)10 ) latest models in silk petticoats
Is madu with a graduated flounce much wider
at the back than In front , and fitted on a
ynko jnst nter the hips But the real novelty
Is In the hustle , made by gathering the top
of the back breadth Into a sort of pouch
lined with lialrcloth.
Tiio latest fad la for acentcd clothes hooks ,
An ordinary wire bcdlcp rack or nklrt ex
tender Is used. 'Kach end Is slipped Into a
long bag made of fancy silk and lined with
cotton 'batting liberally sprinkled with
sachet powder. The ends of thu < bag are
blilrreJ full around the shank of the ex
tender , or ure tied with ribbons , no that they
clear skin. reps and dimples , may nil l f
youra If you will do what Is needed to Rot
them.
'TIs not hard. Only to follow some slniplo
rules of henlth , ami to help henlth with
Mmc , Yule's
Beauty Specialties
Wo have bought a largo stoc'x of thesa
and nro selling them for u time nt cut prices
to prove what
Bargains
Wo hnvo to offer In nil our departments.
Since we commenced felling Alme , Ynlo's
beauty specialties In n special dcpurtiiuxnt
wo have been crowded with Indies nho nro
beautiful mid who wish to preserve Unit
beauty Indies whose luvnity for n time Is
under an eclipse , ami who wish to mnko the
eclipse pass nwny under Mine. Yale's In
structions.
How to bo beautiful , and remain beautiful
to ripe old ngo , Is truthfully told In Mine. .
Yule's great book , "Woman's Wisdom , "
fre0 to nil .who ask for It.
Call ami get It. Get tulvlco as to whnt you
need from our salcal.idleM , who will wait on
you more satisfactorily tliini mule clerks.
Save money by buying now nt our
Special Prices
Her Our
I'rice. I'riea
Mine , tnies llnir Tonic. u-Htorcn
health ami color to the hnlr
and stops It from falling , create *
Its growth Jl.lfl COc
Hnlr Cleanser , for Hlinnipuolnir. . l.w ) cflo
Krultoura ( for Femnlo Weak
ness ) .IPO 6V !
Li : Froekln ( for freckles ) i' ' U'lc
Skin Food ( small , for Wrinkles ) . . 1..10 1.19
Skin Food ( large ) 3. ' . ' . : 'J
Unst Food ( ( small for developing
Neck , llust it ml Arms ) . . . l.SO 1.10
Hlist Food ( largo ) : ! . ( X ) 11.2. )
Complexion Face Powder , throe
slmdes Pink , White , Hrunctto. . . .fill S3o
Complexion Soap 1 > l.'io
Complexion liloneli ( for Moth
1-iitchPH mid Liver Spots ) . . . . 2.00 ! . " >
Complexion Crenm ( for Softening
mid refining the skin ) l.Oi ) C9c
Eyelash Grower ( promoting
Kroxvth of the EyebroAS and
LnKlies ) 1 M C3e
Special Lotion ( Pimple Cure ) 1.00 l c
Spwlal Ointment ( lilarklu-ail
Cure ) 1.00 C9o
Blood Tonic ( Purifying- Ulood ) 1.00 6'ic '
Hand Whltoiipr ( initko * the hands
soft delicate and white 1.00 Me
Ullxlr of lipittity ( Skin Tonle ) 1.00 G3c
Magical secret ( for Hoftonlns
water ) l.SO 1.19
Oivat Scott 1.00 ( We
Jaelc Hose Leaves ( liquid rouge ) . . 1.0) ) Re )
Jaek Hose. Huds ( Lip Salve ) 1.00 ( We
Face ISnnniPl-White and Pin' ; . . . . l.f.O 1.19
Kyobrow Pencils 23 15o
Mole ami Wart Extractor 1.00 C'Jo
Lily Skin AVhltoner 1.00 ( We
Skin Uellner 1.00 G'Jc
Complexion lirusli f > 0He
Yale's Antiseptic l.CO C3c
Yale's Digestive Tablets ( for In
digestion , etc. ) largtv size 1.00 COc
Yale's Digestive Tablet * ( for In
digestion , ete ) small size W 230
Yale's Complexion Tablets , large
size 1.00 GOc
Yale's Complexion Tablets , small
Elzi- 50 3c
Yale's Fertilizer Tablets , for con
stipation , large size 1.00 K9c
Ynlo's Fertilizer Tablets , small
size ; .HO S3c
A sample ? ! ZP. bottle given away of Frult-
cura with every pureinsp amounting to 33u
or over of Madame Yale's goods.
i6th and Douglas Streets.
are easily removed when there Is a necessity
for renewing the powder. 'Bodices ' hung on
these scented extenders get Just enough perfume -
fume about them to make those about the
wc.irer wish that It was a little stronger.
And that Is tbo secret of using perfumes
properly. '
Turtles , studded with jewels and crawling
about the heads and necks of society's fair
est women , are what we may soon expect to
see. The fad la now prevalent In Paris , and
New York Is never far 'behind Paris In such
things. The turtles are tiny llttlo creatures ,
and in the shells of some aru embedded' ' pre
cious stones valued at $1,000.
Word comes from Paris that the women
there are wearing short chains and lookcU
over high velvet collars. This Is an old
fashion revived and Is not an especially
pretty ono. Lockets are for remembrance ,
and the ave.rago woman. If cho wears ono ,
prefer 'to ' keep It out of eight. Now York
women are wearing strings of pearls , of opal
beads or of etoncs In combination , such as
brilliants and garnets , amethy.sts and pearto
ajnd BJ on on the ouLs'.ilo of their collar ? .
Of course these adornments are only per
missible In the afternoon for receptions ,
teas or calling. Another fad Is the wnrlns
of two .handsome brooches , ono on the left
Bide of 'the collar Ini front and the other on
the right.
Street 'traveling ' and Indeed all sorts of
utility gowns nro made to clear the groun.l .
all around , but house tolletu at all drcisy
In Btylo are cut with a graceful daml-train
a fashion far morn 'suitable anil appropriate
for smart artistic homo wear than any sort
of Indoor gown with an abbreviated skirt ,
adds itho Now York Poit. There la very
llttlo llaro en the front and csldrs of these
gowns ; the effect Is close and rmeoth over
the hips , * the fullness .being . carried well to
the back. A narrow hair clcith facing la
used to prevent a llir/p effect Just at the
hem of the skirt , and tha ! supports any
sort of trimming that jnay there bo ar
ranged. Some of tiheso circular or modi
fied ibi'll shapea have a tingle scam do.vn
the 'back ' or else down the center ot Din
front , giving a inhered clfeit 'whon striped
or plaldo. ) fahrhs aru used.
COAT FOR A YOUNG CHIIL ,