Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, October 03, 1897, Editorial Sheet, Page 10, Image 10

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    10 THE OMAHA DAILY jjfofiJE : SUNDAY , OCTOBER 3 , 1897.
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THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN ,
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iiAiivs AVA'iinnoitrc. '
nnil Slmrt Clntli fur Hie Very
" l"i ' MUlr I c plp.
; NBW YORK. Bept. 30. The shop windows
'dUlfl'tylng all the paraphernalia of a baby's
layctto have nn Irresistible attraction for
niAuy women , regardless ot ago and condl-
'tU n. ' The expense of thcsa small atoms of
.humanity is koniothlng surprising , as noth-
lys but the 'beat Is good enough for them ,
I'antl the average mother will , It necessity ,
timidly economize on her own wardrobe In
order that the baby's prestige for daintiness
and elegance.In detail might , be maintained.
Kqr , Infants' lone dresses and slips naln-
fibok In all Its various qualities Is the ma
terial par excellence.
, 'tfi dainty christening robe Is ot very fine
French nainsook , entirely hand made , and
the utmost latitude in gorgeousncss is
allowed In a frock Intended tor so Important
a function as baby's debut In society. 'The
front Is formed of alternate rows ot tuckii ,
lace and embroidered Insertion , trimmed
with dilnty little bmvs ot baby blue ribbon.
The back of skirt has llvo rows ot Inco In
sertion between alternate rows ot tucks and
embroidery. The little round body Is uiiJo
with a ruflia of real Valenciennes lace to form
a yoke. Cute little hquaro bows ot satin ribbons
bens outline the waist ami long emU of the
same hang on cither side ot the front. The ?
bottom ot the skirt has fine tucks and In
sertions a hnlf yard deep and Is finished with
two rufllcs ot real lace all around. The
filoovo U formed of ono little puff with lace
ruffle.
The long cloak , quite In keeping with this
exponent of buby finery , Is a sumptuous affair ,
of whltu moire with a silvery sheen and
most elaborately embroidered. The long capo
laalso embroidered and finished with a deep
runic of rich lace. Kor baby's best cap noth
ing la prettier than Valenciennes lace , which
Is.as much her prerogative In lacn aa blue Is
In color. This Is made with a full ruch'iig
ot net and rlbbocenc. A little narrow frill
of lace forms a tiny cape. The crown la
composed entirely of the lace Insertion , with
rlbbocene running through It. The only
' WHITE NAINSOOK HEMSTITCHED.
fl
trimming Is two lull rosettes of rlbbocccie ,
one on the top and fancy ribbons to tic
Under IhUjChln.
FOR CONSTANT USE.
Then , of course , tor everyday wear there
are nainsook frocks of every ilesc Iptlon ,
I \ skirts embroidered In dainty designs. Yoki-H ,
rqtarc round * , pointed and surplices , and
ranging from the slmtfle little slip made with
n jjliln 1mm. tlm tiniest t.f embroidered edge
round neck and wrists , as die solo trimming ,
to tucs. Insertions and laces galore. To
our minds , however , there Is nothing so dls-
ttnctly babyish as the slip ot line nainsook
with a plain hem. A little round yoke with
three group ? of tiny tucks separated by hem
BtitcliliiR. The sleeve Is finished with a turn
over'cuff , trimmed with the stitching. The
nalnsnok gash attached to slip In the
. back'Is tied In a largo how on the left side ,
imd the ends finished with the hem .stitching.
1 Then when baby has attained the dignity
, of another birthday , and the worsted Khooi
and short ilics * periods In the nitrco'ii arms
have passed , a more serious frock comes Into
play. The llttlo toddler's legs must be aa
fr'oo as possible fcr the first tottering foot-
, plops. The skirts are shore , coming just be
low the liiico. One suited to the first Infantile
struggles In this direction Is of nainsook ,
which seems to fill all the requliements of
baby's necessities In frocks , until a more
advanced stage U rojehed. Simplicity Is still
In force , and Iho little full skirt has only u
dettf hem with tlvu narrow tucks above for
'
t'rjmmlng. The yuko consists of small tucks
. . and hem stitching back and front , and ono
Insertion In front , Hemstitched ruffle over
. tlio. . shoulders. The little cambric petticoat
and pantalettes have tiny tucks and scal
loped : HlKi't , With' Ibis Is worn kid clippers
with' ftuip and aprlng heels mid sacks , an
.English fashion very much In VORUO with the
llttlo children ot the rich. Their tender fkln
U early accustomed to fresh nlr In large
doses , and a Hturdy-legged. wholesome lot
f s sr Ml I
I | IJI1 | 1
they are. Whereas , more ordinary folk or ]
: hose , perhapi , not so much enlightened , arc
always afraid ot the little ones taking cold ,
When the thermometer Is below zero their
hearts arc filled with pity for the rosy , bare ,
leased youngsters , and with scorn for the
foolish mothers who arc slaves to faehlon and
liave nu regard for the laws ot health.
COJLORBD FROCKS.
A sweet llttlo frock Is of dainty rosebud
lawn , with sunbonnet to match. The full
skirt Is plain , with a deep hem , llttlo round
waist and belt of embroidery. The sleeve Is
made with two largo puffs , separated by two
narrow bands of embroidery , and a single
one as a finish at the waUt. Two rosettes ot
ribbon are at the waist In the back.
A blue and whlto checked gingham , with
Bunbonnct to match , Is a very proper costume
for the small girl to wear when she Is old
enough for a romp with the big brother a
year or so her senior , who feels reckless In
a pair of blue Jeans , and overalls at that.
SUNBONNETS.
For children living In sunny climes the
aunbonnct Is dc rlgcur the year round , and &
baby face never looks prettier than when
framed lit a dainty environment ot white ,
pink or blue lawn. They are made In
various wa > 8 , and the common sense style
Is especially popular In the nouth. A pretty
one Is of striped- lawn , with corded brim and
a normatidlo back , finished with a bow. This
Is tlie everyday bonnet. Another very simple
ono Is of whlto corded lawn , normandlo back ,
finished with a bow of the material and two
ruflles ot embroidery. For the best bib and
tucker , a very pretty ono Is of dimity , with
embroidered side band and crown. Frill and
capo edged with embroidered Insertion and
Valenciennes laco. This Is equally pretty In
pink , blue or white dimity. For state oc
casions the poke bonnet Is very suitable and
will gratify the mother's love of finery , as It
will take a deal of trimming , and $18 or $20
Is no unusual price for such baby frivolities.
A very elegant one Is of mllan , with puffed
chiffon facing. Four ostrich tips , three
falling over the front and ono standing fur
ther back , with bows , loops and ends of
satin ribbon. Wide Batln ribbon strings are
tied In a large bow under the chin on the
left sldo. I
AUTUMN CLOAKS.
Infants' long cloako are made of cashmere ,
bedford cord , ch'lna silk , fancy crepon and
taffeta silks , with single , double or triple
capes , embroidered or plain , on round , square
or pointed collars. A pretty cape Is made
with a silk-lined hood. Short coats for little
tots 1 and 2 years ot age are of f.incy figured
material , white Marseilles , serges , linen
crash , figured bedford cord , fancy crepon , etc.
A very serviceable coat Is nude of navy blue
serge , with empire back. Lappets over
shoulders , trimmed with embroidery. A little
turnover collar with fancy edge. Full fronts
fastened with thrco Urge buttons at the top.
Another Is of striped flannel made with a
fancy deep collar , cut In squares and trimmed
with braid. Very full front and back. A
figured bedford cord Is very stylish , made
with square collar , edged with deep embroid
ered rullle , collar and cuffs nuished with three
rows of narrow silk braid. A pretty llttlo
coat Is ot white Marseilles , with yoke front ,
double box-plaited back , loose from neck , with
rufllo over shoulder , trimmed with Insertion
and embroidery. Full sleeves with deep turn
over cuffs. More dressy Is one of fancy
crcpun In pale ; blue , with i/llk-llncd collar and
rufllc , . trimmed with three rows of narrow
lace and baby ribbon , collar and cuffs
trimmed to correspond.
Petticoats for babies range from the In
fants' barrow coats or pinning blankets In
flannel. These arc made plain , with waist
of flannel , or with round oaby waist and
shoulder straps to the little short , full skirt
and straight , plain llttlo body , which la worn
by little gills until the ago of 7 or 8 , when
the plain , waist is abandoned.
NOVELTIES.
The now mohair ribbon comes In all the
colors of the rainbow , Scotch plalda and
checks galoro. They have all the sheen and
brilliancy of silk or satin , and the very great
merit ot nelng absolutely non crushablc.
They are extensively used In trimming.
A band new Parisian novelty are the huge
ciavats of glace silk. The stock Is very
high and beautifully shaped , and Is made
ot the glace silk in the finest accordion
plaiting. The large bow hi front Is also
accoidlon plaited and consists ot two very
full loops with a loose knot In the middle ,
a Jeweled pin more or lesa gorgeous Is the
proper finish for this. The stock Is made
OD a substantial foundation and fastens In
the 'back. These are made In the most ador
able colors , ravishing shades of blue , green ,
violet and red , and are simply stunning worn
with white or black chiffon bodices.
Now cloth gowns la royal blue and violet
have as many as six shades Introduced Into
one costume. The skilful blending so that
none Is too conspicuous Is possible only to
an artist or a French woman. In green ,
brown or scarlet this shading Is equally
effective and Is likely to prove popular mid a
feature of the coming season.
The full front , variously known as frouco
blouse or pouch ( the latter expression has
too much ot the kangaroo flavor to be gener
ally popular ) , still retains Us prestige , and
late Imported gowns , almost without excep
tion , are made In that style , Its perennial
vogue la doubtless dun to the fact that it H
unlvcrslally becoming and gives the wearer
a very smart , frenchy air , not produced bj >
any other style of bodice. Anotner very
decided merit which snoulrt not be overlooked
Vi this connection Is that the blouse front
and frouec back generally make a stout fig
ure lok slighter , and fashioned on more 'deli
cate line's than the scales would testify to In
pounds. ID the hands of a skilful manipulator
later , who has made a study of the human
form divine , the plain French back has 'benn ' ,
known to discover lines and god points gen
erally hitherto unsuspected.
Another fashion which bids fair to go on
forever like Tennyson's Immortal brook , Is
the chiffon bodice. What could wo do with
out It ? As nil-round boautlflers , they cer
tainly have no equal. EMILY HA55AUD.
A TYPICAL WOHKIM : . . nmi. .
She Mnl < i < K-Illr > ol * Tires nnil Tnltom n
Mvrly lutcivNt In Current AJInlrn ,
The Jewelers , the harness makers , the car
riage makers and the piano makers vgroan
over the bicycle. They don't rldo It , not
they. They'd like to do so , to be euro , but
they can't afford It , They're out Of work ,
many of them , or working short tlmci Tlio
bicycle has ruined their trade. Instead ot
buying watches or pianos the young folks
are putting nil their spare cash Into wheels.
According to the economists such displace
ment of labor Is only a temporary evil.
Things soon adjust themselves and the dis
placed workmen are employed making the
now article. In practice , somehow It doesn't
seem to work that way. Few ot those for
merly employed In Jewelry or piano or har
ness shops have found their way Into bicycle
factories. Somehow the old trades' seemed to
pay better. That may bo one reason. When
a new trade starts up a new machine seems
to como to light along with It and another
opening Is found for women's labor. Almost
all the work on the pneumatic tires for
bicycles Is done by girls. In many of the
shops. Indeed , there are women to superin
tend the work. Only where main strength
Is required as In putting the tire on the
wooden rim Is man called Into service. Thors
Is nothing particularly objectionable about
the work. The odor of the rubber Is not
pleasant , but the girls got used to It after
a while. They are obliged to stick their
barc , hands Into a sticky , Ill-smelling mix
ture , which Is smeared on the outer covering
of the tire to make It more or less Im
pervious to tacks and such things. At first
their hands ore apt to crack , but they harden
after awhile. As a rule the work Is done
In big roomy factories and the girls who do
the work say they have absolutely nothing
to complain of , so why should any mere
outsider long to Inoculate them with the
virus of discontent.
They are mostly very young , those bicycle
girls , ranging from. 14 to 20 years old. Meat
of them have found their first wage-earning
employment In , the bicycle shop. A few
MRS. LIZZIE SHANNON.
older ones are required to fasten the ends of
tlii ; rubber tubes together and to put the
valves In place. These operations require
good judgment and deftness of fingers.
Lizzie Shannon Is ono ot these older ones.
She confesses to having passed her 23d birth
day , and adds that she Is getting near the
old maid line. She'll have to stand It , of
course , she adds , but no girl likes to think
she'll be an old maid. Lizzie lives with her
thres brothers end her mother on the top
floor of an old-fashioned tenement house.
The rooms arc larger than they would be In
a newer place , but there are no Improve
ments and windows only In the front and
rear rooms. The two middle rooms get air
and light only through the doors connecting
them with the parlor and kitchen. It's a
very plain and poor llttlo home. The gay
rod-flowered Ingrain carpet and the pale blue
wall paper and ribbons and table cover
swearing at the cheap red plush parlor suit ,
with Its not very comfortable chairs , would
give convulsions to an artist who sjw only
effects. It's a real home , however , with af
fection for mother and brothers and sister
and love ot home evidenced in a dozen1 little
touches. There Is a saucerful of sea shells
on the little square table in the center of
the room. There are the cheapest of cheap
lace curtains on the windows , tied back with
pale blue ribbons. There are family photo
graphs , In wldo walnut frames , and a tea
store picture or two , framed with fringes
of tissue paper. Lizzie herself , In a neat
blue wrapper , sits upright In a red plush
chair , and looks pleased at praise of her
home.
"Yes , I know. " she says , "ifolks think fac
tory girls don't like housework , but It Isn't
true. All the girls I know like to fix up their
homes. Most cf them that < lon't go home to
their dinner spend their lunch tlmo making
fancy work for their homes. Most of us
would rather do housework , that Is , In our
own homes , of course. I wouldn't work In
anybody's kitchen for no money. I don't
know , why , but you can bet your life I
wouldn't. My mother worked out. though ,
before she was married , but then , of course ,
she didn't hnvo a homo of her own In this
country. Yes , Indeed ; all the girls I know
would stay at home and not BO out to work
at all It they could , but you , ieo we can't.
Our families need our earnings. We know
when we are real small that no must go to
work Bomo day and help support ourselves
POSITIONS.
And the rci > f ) oft.Uio . children. Of course , the
girls dnn't-tixpcct to stay at It Always. No
girl wants to he an old maid It she can help
It. Once lil awjhllo a girl stays on to work
after she Rots married , hut she only expects
to stay for'i' ' > mtlo while until they have
money enough to furnish tholr rooms nicely.
I think It's very foolish for A girl to marry
A man \vho"can.'t support her. I don't think
married women should be allowed to work
In shops thoroi-arc so many girls who need
the work and haven't anybody to take care of
them. There aren't any married women In
our shop , except the forclady , and she's A
grass widow. She gets the highest pay In
ths shop J10 A week. I got the next high
est $7.50. Tt\ctother girls get from $4.CO to
$ G. Some 61 ! flic beginners get only $3 , but
they'll get moro after awhile. All ot the
girls In our place llvo at homo with their
folks , except four or five. They board with
Irlcnds. They're treated just like ono of the
family , you know , and they pay $3 a week.
"I like the work better than anything else
I ever worked at. I worked In n store a long
time , until I got sick from standing so much.
In the tire factory you don't have to ault any
body but juet the forclady , anj sho's nice to
us. In the store some of the floorwalkers are
horrid , and then there's the bend of the stock
and the ladles. They're hard lo suit mostly.
And then you have to bo particular about your
dress. You can't wear out your shabbiest
things at work as > ou can hnrc. And the
girls are better to each other In the factory.
Wo'ro like one big family. About every other
Saturday afternoon In summer we all go on
a picnic to the park or the beaches , The
forclady and superintendent and all go along ,
What other amusements ? Well , wo meet at
each other's houses sometimes and bring our
fellows and sing and play cards and some
time ] dance a llttlo If the pcdplc down stairs
aren't grumpy. Once a week I go to the tho-
nter with the young man I keep company
wllh.
"Unions ? I don't know much about them.
I suppcao they're good for men , but I don't
think women need them. My brother belongs -
longs to a union ,
"No , I don't rldo a bicycle. I don't think
It's a very ladlike thing to do. Mono of the
girls In our place would rlJe.
Did she bellovo women should vote ? But
Lizzie was too shocked at tno disgusting Ideate
to do moro than shake he. ' head. I.lzr.lc Is
an extreme conservative , ITce the majority of
girls who work In factories.
IIBAI'TY KXHliciSnS.
Atlilrdcn CnliMilntiMt to llciiollt Flit
nnil Irun Women.
No woman Is too old to be eager to learn
anything that will Improve her appearance.
And yet , for the want ot proper teaching
what hollow necks , stooping shoulders , flat
waists and ungraceful figures are seen dally.
In many rases these defects may be entirely
eradicated , In all cases greatly lessened , and
the figure end carriage vastly Improved bs
strict adherence to a tew simple rules of
liralth and the regular vigorous use of a
complete set of physical exercises for six , or
even for three months.
No woman Is too old If she has the
necessary strength to be greatly benefited
by the dally practice of the following set of
exercises , especially If he ndho'cs to thp
rules for general living. They ault the fat
and thin alike reducing the adlpn e tissue
and bracing the flabby muscles In rne case ,
filling hollows . , and rounding limbs In the
other. T >
The exercises should bo regularly practiced
For five or ten' minutes every morning after
the cold ablutions , and for the same time be
fore getting to bed. Vary the order of exor
cises to avoid ffttlgue.
nxorclses' . for neck and arms. Standing
prect wlthshotilders back , chest out , waist
In and feet ( firmly planted with heels together
and toes ouU , , , \
1. Stretch the arms out In front , palms
touching. .Swing them luck until the backs
of the hands itouch behind. The arms must
bo kept pocXectly straight , and the point at
which theyitouoh behind as high as possible
2. Raise the -arms straight above the head ;
swing them down and as far back as they
will go ; .then , without stopping , back to the
same po ltl,9n , above the head.
3. Sv.'ingt ths-arms round In a circle ono'
at a time , then both together.
4. Place the tips of the fingers on the
chest , then fling the arms out and back
till at right angles with the body.
5. Endeavor , with a sharp Jerk , to make
the elbows meet at the back.
G. Fling the arms alternately above the
head and out at right angles to the body ,
bringing the closed hands to the shoulders ,
and the elbows to the sides between each
fling. The foregoing exercises develop the
muscles of the neck and arm , helping greatly
to expand the chest ,
7. Ralso the arms at right angles with
body till the elbows are ns high as the
shoulders. Place the fingers on the shoulders ,
and sharply bring the lower arm Into the
name straight line , palms upward. This
gives roundness to the arm just below the
elbow.
8. With elbows near sides and lower arms
upward , palms front fling the hands from
the wrists backward and forward. This will
develop the muscles just above the wrists.
EXERCISES FOR TUB TORSO.
9. Lean forward and then backward cs
far as possible , also to the right and
left.
10. Twist the body round In both directions
from the walit.
11. Lock the thumbs , ami with the knees
stiff , bend until the tips of the fingers touch
tin ; floor. Rise to an upright position with
the arms above the head.
EXERCISE FOR LEGS AND FEET.
12. Jump on the toes , or , hotter still , skip
with a rope. This la an excellent exercise ,
cEpeclally for ( hose who wish to make their
Instena hlchor. *
13. Stand on tiptoe , and then stoop sud
denly until almost sitting oit the heels ; rise
again on tiptoe. The back must bo kept
straight.
II. Kick as high as possible , aiming at
a point about three Inches above the
bead.
Thrso exercises enable you to balance the
body easily and to move the limbs grace ,
fully.
There Is ono moro thing which should bo
done habitually , whether exercising or not.
Breathe from the abdomen , making sure that
the lower lobes of the lungs are filled with
air. Any woman who will take the trouble
to live according to these pimple direction !
can hardly fall to be healthy , vigorous ,
comely and therefore happy.
SHU SA'W IjAl'AYISTTK.
A 'll.-ilttniorc Mnlil Who TulUi-il > I1V
the KiiinoiiH Krciii'liinnn.
Tillsa Sarah Randall , the oldest Inmate at
the Homo for the Aged of the Methodist Epis
copal Church , Fulton avenue and Franklin
street , reached the ago of 103 years Septem
ber 15 , relates the Baltimore American. She
sustained a second stroke of paralysis on
September 12 and Is In a critical condition.
Miss Randall suffered her first stroke of par
alysis on lonffay , September C , and was re
covering somewhat from the shock , when ehe
received the second stroke the following Sun
day , This fetroko seems to have affected hef
mostly In the .throat and aho Is now unable
to swallow.n Itnvas Intended that the annlver-
rary of her'birthday should bo fittingly cele
brated this year , but her Illness has put an
end to all arrangements , ai there are no
hopes for her recovery. Miss Randall , who Is
a relative Of the late Representative Samuel
J , Randall of Pennsylvania , has been a re-
marltablo woman ,
Desplto her years , until recently her hear
ing and eJght' were- very goad , and she used
glasaes to read only after dark. She was a
dally reader'v/ / the American , and U was her
delight to read U aloud to the other inmates.
She has been in the 'homo for the laU
four years and Is a general favorite with
everyone , Miss Randall was born In Fred-
erlck county , Maryland , but has spent the
most ot her llfo In Baltimore. Members of
her family were engaged In the revolutionary
war , and eha has a distinct recollection of
the war ot 1812 , In an Interview with a re
porter for the 'American about a year ago Miss
Randall spokeas followu ;
"Yes , I am pretty old and expect.to llvo as
long ai the gcod Iord will let mo. I camu
to Baltimore when there were very few
houses -In the city. Baltimore street was
Main street then , and there were only one or
two buildings on the entire street. My , my ,
things have changed now ! The city In sec
tions where U Is most thickly populated now
was woods when I WAS a girl , H hasn't been
to long , either , but the time seems twice as
long to me. "
"Did you see Lafayette when lib was In Bal
timore ? "
"See him ! " and Mlra Randall's eyes lit
up with a sudden Hash ai ho emphasized the
remark "well , I guctii I did BCD him. and
CHUISTENMNO KO1IB AND POKR BONNET.
spoke to him , too. IIo was a fine man , I > i-
fayette was , and his son after him. They
were both fine men , they were. I guess I
did sec them , and I spoke to Lafayette , too ,
under an arch at the corner ot Light and
Montgomery streets , when I was a little girl.
Oh , that's been a long tlmo ago. "
y KISMIM.M : v.\siiio.vs.
Fllsscd materials are In high vogue.
The exhibit this season of tailor costumei
Is more than ever attractive and complete.
'French ulsters are made with double or
triple shoulder capes and trimmed with
rows of braid ami fancy gilt buttons.
Among the many devices for open work
effect In the blouse bodice Is cloth cut out
NAINSOOK SLIP.
In. lea\es and various scroll designs , all
edged around with fine gold or bronze braid
and made up over colored silk.
Black materials will bo greatly favored
( luring the fall and winter seasons and a
special and very elaborate display of elui
gant black fabrics is made at the various
Importing houses.
One decided feature of the Russian blouse
Is the slight pouching of the fulness front
and back. This Idea will be carried out In
all materials of sufficient body to preclude
the effect of a characterless droop.
Autumn wraps show a womlerful diversity
among the models of short , medium , three-
quarter and redlngote lengths , all equally In
vogue and presenting a choice more varied
In style than has been exhibited at any one
reason within recollection.
Tlio capo and "col" this season will only
bo used on dress occasions and will naturally
be built of rich materials and much trimmed.
For most daytlmo occasions a jacket will
suffice , and these jackets come in smart
colors and arc smartly trimmed.
Very pretty effects for house dresses made
with the blouse waist are produced with
black velvet either an Inch and a half or
two Inches wide. This Is sewn In stripes
up and down , the width of the velvet apart ,
on white satin which forme the bodice.
Some very striking colors In prelate , royal
and orchid purple appear both In superb
satins and brocades , Immense faille and
satin plaids , figured moires , plain and fancy
wools , and In fall and winter millinery.
The smooth-finished cloths In black and
also In all the new fashionable colorings arc
rrc-emlncntly handsome , both In texture and
weave , and the choice us to color Is almost
unlimited. Many of the expensive patterns
arc deeper In tone than they have been for
several seasons past.
Odd arrangements ot frilling , lace , net ,
fur braid , velvet , fringes , etc. , nro very
much used on bodices , rcdlngotcs , and prln-
ccsso dresses fastened at the left side ; and
a very dressy appearance ls _ Imparted to
otherwIsc simple gowns by the addition ot
those trimmings.
Hews aie worn mostly In front rather
than at the back of our collars , with all
sorts of necktie ends. Tucks , In all sorts
of materials , are quite as popular for a
trimming cs they were In the early summer ,
and many of the new drees models show a
clover use of this simple decoration.
Whipcords and hopsacklng woven In soft
backet checks and tartan plaids are to bo
very popular , while the old vicuna cloths
are brought out In a new guise , with Infini
tesimal checks and hair line stripes on the
surface. Corduroys with silk checks are ef
fective , and there Is a long range of colors
among the zybellncs and broche mixtures.
Regarding sleeves , the latest French de
signs show the same funnel-shaped styles ,
little mutton-leg models , coat forms , with
pretty diminutive apologies for shoulder
decorations In the form of Hungarian caps
covered with silk cord passcmcntrles en
pllquc , slashed tops with Interstices of some
rich coptrastlngiicolor. and mnusquctatro
shapes for women with over-slender arms
tLese wrinkled from .shoulder to wrist.
.NOTES.
Miss Helen Gould Is a devoted lover of rare
flowers.
Mrs. Fleming , who was accused of poison
ing her mother , has gone In search of for
tune to the Klondike gold fields.
Mr. and Mrs. Kll D. Gage nro malting a
tour In the Klondike region ; they are not
gold-seekers , but are In Btarch ot recreation
and hualt-h.
Mrs Mary E. Bryan of Georgia Is one of
the most successful women novelists ; she Is
a prolific writer and Is enabled to earn large
sums with her pen.
The surprise in store for a New York cook
was an agrpeable one. Euphcmla McKay was
recently loft a fortune of $1,000,000 by an
uncle In South Africa.
Miss May Fuller of Tacomn was the first
woman who climbed the top of Mount Rain
ier , the highest peak In the United States.
She Is the president of the Mazamas Outing
club of Portland , Ore.
Mrs. Richmond Ritchie , the only surviving
daughter of William Moke-piece Thackeray , In
tends to write biographical and anecdotic
notes for each volume of a now edition of her
father's works which Is soon to appear.
Krau Materna , the famous Wagnorlan
singer , has just retired from public life. At
a banquet at Vienna she made the announce
ment of her retirement and read to the guests
several letters In which Wagner expressed
his admiration of her creation of the part of
Drunnhlldo at Bayrcauth In 1870.
If an article In the Windsor Magazine It
to be trusted , Mrs. John Maxwell , or to glrb
her the name by which she Is widely and
favorably known among u certain class ot
readers , "Miss Ilraddnn. " puts her navels on
paper at the rate of l.tiOO words an hour.
A widow named Cnrlstlno Codlnl , who re
members the Impression Napoleon I made
on .her as a child , celebrated her 101st birth
day a fnw weeks ngo at Mainz , Germany. She
Is In good health and nut long ugo expressed
to her 60-ycir-olil son a wUh to go to lAmor-
Ica to visit her grandchildren.
Christina Nllsson has just made a trip to
Sweden , her native country , where s'uo visited
the exposition at Stockholm. Her visit wai
ROSEBUD LAWN.
a constant succession of the proofs of publlu
admiration , and crowds of paoplo waited In
the street for .her to pass. She sajig only
once , at Upsala , the old university city , whera
the students came to serenade her.
Mrs. Florence 'E. ' Cory , the originator ot
the School of Industrial Art and Practical
Design , recently Instituted a number ot free
scholarships for young women. Hero they
can learn carpet , oil-cloth , wall paper and
dress goods designing , also book covers , dec
orative work and everything embraced under
technical designing. -
Mrs. A , 13. Paul Is the first woman In tha
world to obtain the appointment of Inspector
of street cleaning In a great city. She la
one ot eleven Inspectors who sco that Chi
cago's streets are kept clean , and her dis
trict Is the Important ono bounded by tha
river , Adams street , Fifth avenue and the
lake. At present she Is commander of BOV
cntecn men , all Italians.
A chair of music In the University ol
Minnesota Is to bo endowed and offered to
Fraulcln Anna Schoen Rene , who has al
ready done good work In that Institution.
Fraulcln Reno Is a graduate ot the Royal
academy In llorlln , where her musical edu
cation was completed at the expense ot tha ,
old Kaiser Wllhelm after the death 'of hof
father , who was ono of the emperor's privy
councilors.
,
BATESV1LLE , ARK. , April 14 , 1897.
When I commenced to use Wine of Cardui
and Black-Draught in February I was not able
to stand on my feet more than ten minutes at
a time. My menses were irregular and I suf
fered much from them. 1 have taken two bottles
of Wine of Cardui and Thedford's ' Black-Draught
and am prepared to say these medicines are
better than they are claimed to be. I am in bet
ter health now than for months and am improving
every day. I am sure Wine of Cardui is the
best medicine made for women.
Mrs. BIRT1E NEOLY.
It is almost suicidal for women to continue to
suffer every month from pain in the head , neck , shoul
ders , back , sides , hips and lower bowels , when it is known
that McElree's Wine of Cardui will relieve nearly every
case. A single bottle , costing one dollar , is sufficient to
prove its efficacy. If you neglect treatment , a few more
years of suffering will make you LADIES' ADVISORY DEPARTMENT.
' For ndtlco to oaics requiring ep -
a premature old v/oman , perhaps cUldlr ctonit < 1 < lrMiir1 1C i7iop-
tomf , LaAlti' AMivra Jepartmtnl ,
on the verge of the grave. TbeChiillunnuKaMedlQluoVa. CLUtiuooio , Tenu.
fyJNt
"
' ' '
DRUGGISTS SELL WINE OP CARDUI/