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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 8, 1897)
THE ( XMAITA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , AUGUST 8. 1807. 11 * S1 iss5"1 * IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. SOMR si' Gcn\\s. Sritpnnntilc Hint * CnnecrnlnR > -t-k t 'nr nn 1 Children' * I'rocU * . j NKW YOHK. Aug. 6. Some stunning ' COWDI for Sate mimmir and early autumn me- | ing hare been brought from I'trle by returnIng - { Ing m.dsummcr travelers. Tlwe will doubt less make their debut at Newport before' ' those cntlcil gatherings of which each Indl- j vldual is a notable In the social world. When ; the first bloom It off they will grare the meeting * at Shcepshrad and Cedarburtt , inhere the audience Is mure mixed. The wife of a prominent member of the Jockey dub will wear a gown of trlngllng lllofi dp Perte. Thla In a tpcclt * of canvas. The chiffon vetf Is trimmed with two bands of old lute , laid Irom the light tide to the Ml The bodice forum a soft blouse under n folded iH'lt , and 1 trimmed -with one large rcvcr of IvorRatln. . ltai > d of lace are laid a little bias , over the ft out of the skirt. With this 1 * worn an English straw hat , git-en , very pliable , trimmed with flower * , and a lilac bird of paiadlse. Toilet In green cashmere rcloutc ha ? a lit tle bloucc , cut In long point * , , trimmed with a pattern In black lace embioldrry. The bodice and fcleeves are of faucy plaid silk , a flhadc darker , In blurs , gieens and cream. The hat worn with this costume Is a cherry r.traw , trimmed with gmize uf the same color and black wings In front. Anotticr gown Is of roarre canvas ficelle over t.ff la skirt In majesty rose. The blojse is of plaited TOM chiffon with rcve-rs In can vas over transparent ecru gauze appllqued with passementerie. The same trimming adorusi the Mlrt. Black ribbon velvet on bodice and fcklrt forms rosette * . The straw bat Is trimmed with white tulle flowers and bird of paradise. Another racing ccsturae Is In s-llvcr gray crepe dc rhino. An embroidery dwlgn on moire f-ilk is > appllqued on cray velvet. The bodlco eltu-ed on the side with large Ivory buttons on a round flap .trimmed with lace Gathered very full. The skirt is trimmed with bands of embroidery. A hat of English gray ( draw trimmed In sime color. STKEL CLUE AND CREAM. A simple gown IB of steel blue barege. The skirt is plain In from and Scotch plaid silk In two large plaits Is draped on the ilps and , falling behind , shows pattern in ecru and green. The toque Is made of Jetted wings , with a bow of Ulk and Aigrettes. The most effective gown In this collection is of cream white dotted swlss tner a taf feta slip. The body Is composed entliely of Inch wide blue taffeta ribbon infeertlonn , with lace. The \est front IB trimmed on each side with three full pllsses of dotted KWISS , very wide at the top and covering 4he > shoulders and most of the sleeve. The j-.lisses are finished just auove the belt with rcecttefc of lilac velvet , with jeweled but tons ; traall leg o' mutton sleeves , made of ribbon and lace Insertion , and finished at the wrist with a fall of lace. The belt and stock are of violet velvet with fans of lace. The skirt Is made with a deep Spanish flounce of swlss , with ribbon Insertions , and u full ruchlng at the tup of the flowers. With this Is carried a parasol of white lace . with bands of lilac ribbon and a lull rosette of ribbon at the top. The handle Is finished with a handaame bow. A brilllantlne skirt made without a lining Is a good Investment for a ummer outing. Itl dust shedding qualities are alone sulll- elent to .recommend It to any sensible woman. These are not to be found lii the shops , and if by any chance they should be , are sure to prove unsatisfactory. "Only the very best material ehould be used , at It is a waste of time and energy to expend it on cheap stuff , " quoth Mine , la Coutouriere. It Is just as well to abide by her ulti matum in order to produce successful re- ulbs. Have it made by a dressmaker who STEEL BLUE BAREGE. employe a tailor , for both artnecessar ; to attain the desired effect. The drersmake to hang the skirt properly , which Is by al odds the most Imiiortaut feature In the mak Ing , and a tailor to preca the hem and strap pcd seams. The skirt should be about fou end a quarter yards wide , with a hem seve : inches deep. The front eeam should not b gore-d enougb to give that box plaited effec BO desirable in some stuffs , but not feaslb ! In brilllantlne. A small bustle of hal cloth sewed to the belt will prevent that fla Appearance which belongs to nine out of te voincu. A skirt supporter with attachment is absolutely ctsentlal to prevent cagg'n In the skirt walit combination , and to avol that separation of forces which will arous the wrath of man quicker than almost an other lapse from grace in a woman's tollel The well groomed woman among the socle elect rarely offends In this particular , Prot the very start the is "fit. " but It takes a Ion time for the general feminine world at larg to catch on. This is not a } eke , SATIN CHICLETS. Satin ribbons for neckwear ere muc puttier and more In-coming than the stl little made bows , and not to masculine a the regulation four In hand or ctralght crava Double-faced satin ribbon about two Incht wide , to wear with clerical collar , got round the neck twice , with knot and loc ends In front ; a little fancy neckpln fasten the rnds. With standing collar , inch-wld ribbons ar ? uted , round the neck twice an tied In pretty , graceful bows. Tor little tots , as well as children of olde rrowth. there Is nothing more ettractlv thin the dainty organdies , in pinks , blur aud white over color * . These are made wit many little ruffles edged with lace , end hav an airiness and flufflnu-s delightful to beholt The short sleeve U made entirely of tb ruffle with butterfly effect. Taffeta saebe vlth larpe bow * and long ends are alway a fssdnatlns flnlfh. The promlw of the early springtime , whe red hnt astonished over ) body , has results a we predicted , in entire gowns of the earn eorgcou * color , and if a woman has only th food e uBJ to K'lect a proper environment an a cool day to aid euch stimulating raimt'C there ic no objection to Impasting o Mepblsto'c color ; otherwise it is in dii tlnctly bad tifte and will cause the m > i erdtnt admirer to pen > plre freely. With tli abme proviso , however , it is the gown pi excellence to attract attention , and girl , wh tre apt to be overlooked In a crowd will d veil to adopt it for special functions. On Worn lately by a clrl who filled &u the n quinmtnt. called for Is worthy of mention. It le ot red fclrlped pique and red chiffon. The eklrt Is made without a lining , with hem eight Inches deep. It Is trimmed with folds of the same materiel. The body 1 * of red chiffon chirred ovtr cords. A double pllt > e of red taffe'.a Is pi a red down the side. The eleevcs have three groups of shirring inldc the top , forming a small puff. Tantail of red taffeta over fleeve and a fall ot the came at the wrl t. Shirred Mock and belt ire finished with pomted bias pieced ot taffeta. A black hat and patent leather ties , with very delicate cream jellow gloves and parasol the ump hhade. do much In toning down and softening the effect. It It only the clri of many gown * , however , who should Indulge In one of the < e and with . plentiful sprink ling of gauzes , mousH'llncK , batUtee , fleured laces , net , organdie1 * and diaphanous chiffon book on a car. so I hid mine under my rape and didn't look at It. "Most of the girls have good homes , 1 EUCBS. They eltherjlve with their parents or with friend * . Most of the girls have a woman friend who works In the chop with her. They go around together to parties and entertalcraente and dances. We don't hate much to do wKh each other In the chop or outside , u 1 haven t been In many of the other glrlj' hriuse . We are pleasant to each other , but we don't meet outside. Each one has tbpir owii friends , I suppose. There is tale-bearlni ; and unpleasantness , I think. If glrln are chumming outside the factory. I Know two or three ot the girls In the shop belong to working girls' clut and they tell about the good times they have , but 1 gueee most glrle are like raypelf they like their homes and In the exenlng when they get Mate eVilies trar cioihfl ? un hfkm ilothn | and even ttrall dinner clothe are bordered with th > nork But It mv t-oot b whipped on as an edge , but workoA la the linen it- pelf Of course the thrcsA-siscd should be ' linen , and It may be either bleached or un- bleachel to cult the taste , < if. the worker For dollies , mat * ind , tw clothe often eolld pieces of crochet ire sed. When such te the ease the sanjjj pattern may be wed. or each piece maybe , entirely dif ferent The popular shape * , aije oral , round , diamond and squares. In damask eett , which thex falrrs say will be more used than cvtr bWorp , t least for a dozen or more years , the , fftvorlte designs are floral and very pronounced , instead ot small leaves and single buds and blcraotnK as heretofore , the damatkuhia season shows entire plants or long branches laden with both leaves and flowers. Onrof theee sets which Is particularly beanititul has a large chrysanthemum plant In each corner , with flower laden branches rxttridlng toward the center , thus covering the top of the table excepting a small piece In the middle of the cloth , which Is plain , with a profusion of bud . leaves and blossoms. On a similar rloth lone , slender fern plant * are combined with a broad leaf plant resembling very much the wild burdock , and the effect Is both strik ing and bctutlful. Other designs show- lilies , popples , hollyhocks , golden rod and other graceful plants rising from thtlr beds ot moss and grasses Just above the hem and extending toward the center of the cloth tides wtrp lobe had I looked around and could find nothing that I considered * good a * my own baby * dothe * so I thought 'Why shouldn't I cut a ret ot patterns ot my ! own and send them to her * * Later 1 did the. tvime thing for several friends and finally began to think It might be a good thing for other children in whom I felt no per sonal Interest and at the ame time furnish me a means ot support. At that time 1 was supporting myself and child. "A * I had no capital. I began In a very small way , furnishing rets of pattern * and making layettes to order. My work gave satisfaction , and mother ! , trelng the wis dom of such garments , recommended me to their friends. Jn that way my custom in creased and my system became well known. Now 1 have orders from every state In the union and from several foreign countries. 1 employ several sewing women to do my stitching and a number ot expert embroid erers , while I have my patterns manufac tured. My layettes , which are only made to order. I always do the cutting and stampIng - Ing of myself , and personally examine every garment before It Is cent. out. Often , where mothers tako. pleasure in making their own baby clothes. 1 cut and stamp the sets and have them bastcnl up , so that the making and embroidery are much simplified. My pat terns come In eels of fifteen , and arc drafted to fit Into each other , so tbey can be put on the child all together. In that way , you will see. It Is only necessary to turn the child once while dressing , and all these clothes A COACHING TARTY. n bed wardrobes. One frock , even If a trifle bizarre , will not matter , If always worn with an eye to fitness. EMILY HAZARD. run TYPICAL. WOUK.IMI cum. . Kle Vimnnr. < ; nrdin < iktr lloir LooUH from Her Standpoint. 'If you must work and If you like good pay and short hours , as of courpe you do , whether you're man or woman , choose the trade in which fewest women are employed , " say the economic sharps. It is just poEsible , to be sure , that the making of playing cards 1s an exception. The trade doesn't swm to conform to the rule at any rate. 'Lers ' than half a dozen factories supply the country's demand for queens , kings , deuces and the rest of the card family. Cardmaklng is a trade of which very little is beard and scarcely more than a thousand women have found their way Into It , And yet the highest wages any one of them re-celve If J" u week. To the skilled mechanic that seems a pitifully email sum on which to live for eeven days. Such things are relative , however. It all depends on jour Ideals. If your desire is like the cardmiker's , to work all day ever } ' clay In the year , go home and lie down on the lounge , ww ergo go to a party or to visit your friends , then J7 a week may be entirely satisfactory. Ap parently there is no spirit ot comradeship among the cardmakers. What strikes the outsider most forcibly about the card fatory workers te the llteralness with which they have taken old Thomas a'Kempls' Injunction to mind their own business. "Seven dollars a week isn't so b3d , " rays F.sr.ie Va&sar. who bos ben working at the trade for eight jears. "It's only the fin- | isbers get that. Most of the girls who cut and trim and paste get from ? 4 to JC. Fln'ish- Ing requires a great deal of experience. You have to have very quick eyes so > ou can detect the s'lghtrst hnpsrfectlon In the de > - slgn on the back of the cards and you hive to count them as you go along. A finisher handleo about 10,000 cards a day and if fihe lets one ever PO slightly Imperfect slide through she Is likely to gst discharged. Tha other day in our shop a finisher who had worked there for ten years was discharged for letting a card go through that no one but a gambler or a card manufacturer would ever have noticed. The foreman . 'aid If ahe had been a new hand he wouldn't have done it , but she had been there long enough to know better. They have to be % ery ftrict or the girls would all get careless. The perfect cards are for gamblers' use. Th y only u9 a deck once , and If there was the ( lightest difference In the backs of eny two carde they might be accused of cheating. The ones that are thrown aside by the finisher are sold to ordinary players. "Seven dollars Isn't euch bad pay , though , e anyway. It's higher than a girl will pet In most tradw , and cardmamklrg Isn't eeapon work. In mott trades you'll find there's a lot of work for a few months , and then nothing at all. Of course , you have your tlue to do something else , but I'd rather work at something that's I'tcady all the year around. Then you know what you've got. There'j myfather. . He's a etone mason , and get * such big wages J4 a day. They used to say in the shop when there was talk of piack times , and we were liable to be laid off , that I oughtn't to mind , be cause I had a father who got { 4 a day and could support me. But I just kept account lar.t year , and his wages averaged $13 & week. You can't live very well on that , especially It you have sickness and trouble , as we've always had. My mother was sick for years of cancer , and my sister has been blind since ebe was five yeirs old. "At catd making you work right along all the year around. You hardly ever have more than two weeks off. end the girls who get Into it stick at it They say It's a eure < sign you'll be an old maid If you get into a card shop. There's one lady in our factory who'e been there for eighteen years , The other day a lady who used to work there years ago and left to get married , came back and asked for work. Ebe offered to work for JC. Of course that spoils It. The boss might have cut ua all down to $6. No ; It wouldn't1 do a bit of good to strike. The girls in one de partment tried it once. Fifteen out ot twenty struck , but the firm just got machines that do the work of trn girls , and only require two girls to attend to them. "Of course , just turning cardi over , 10,0no of them a day. is very monotonous work , but after a while you do it without thinking about It at ail. You can talk some , end even think about other things. Your eyes and hands sf m to work by themselves. It's very tiresome , though. Sometimes when I get home I lie down on the sofa and go right to elcen , I am no tired. Once in a while 1 take up a book , but usually when I don't go to sleep I tew or EO to see friends. The other nlpht I wai going cm the street care to visit CL friend , and I thought I'd read one of Mr * . Holmes' novels on the way , but I think & cirl loaki a ccatpkuoai reading a home they stay there or visit their own friends. That's the nicest way , 1 think. I don't believe young wrmen who work for a living like to be reminded that they are working girls when they are eiutside the shop. Acjwcy , most of them don't intend to be working girls all their days , so what'a the use of getting into working girls' cluts and unions and ? uch things ? ' TAMI.U Par-Kins : of SHU nnd iintln Fcntlynl DiimiiNk for the Coming ; Scntum. Stylish table linen for the coming sea son shows a decided change from that of the past. Satin , silk end velvet will no longer be used , even with the handsomest loco trimmings. To be stylish lace , which will be much used , must be combined with a suitable quality of lineu , either dull or satin finlr-hed. For these lace sets there arc three new lacca a Russian lace that has close meshes and clumsy looking figures ; across the room It has the appearance of ordinary cro chet work ; a French lace that more than anything else resembles coarse linen torchon , and the third a fine ducheso lace. The last Is the finest lace ever used in table decora tion , and Is combined with linen ro flnc and sheer as to almost resemble mualln. It is used chiefly for tea and lunch cloths , centerpieces and plate and finger bowl del lies. One of the most beautiful luncheon cloths shown Is of dull nnlubed linen with p. center of ducheos lace about the size of a large dinner plate ; from this lace center to the four corners of the cloth extend a narrow scroll work of the lac , while around the edge 1s a lace border three Inches deep. Ot course the corners of this cloth are not intended to fall over the corners of the table , but midway between. With this cloth go plate and tlngcr bowl dollies , miniature copies of the cloth. Renaissance and BBttenburg lace will still be used , but must be combined with linen instead ot silk and catln , though the linen used with these handsome laces Is so smooth and glossy as to closely resemble the two displaced fabrics. . It Is not necessary that doilies and napkins used with lace trimmed cloths should be themselvco lace trimmed , but they must be hemstitched. Another new bordering for small cloths , dollies and napkins is the fayal drawn work. This Is done on the finest linen- and In no way retemblcs the oid-fcshloned drawn or Mexican work. All the threads run ning one way being drawn out , elaborate and graceful designs are worked in with the needle. This border is used on the mcst elegant cloths and cotis more than the finest quality of lace. Old-fashiened drawn work will still be used on le ss stylish occasions. It will be much cheaper than heretofore , owing to the fact that the work it now done in Japan. The linen is made , often hemmed , and-then sent to Japan with the- desired pattern to be worked , A a result of cheap Japanese labor elegantly worked clothe -will be sold next season for lees than half their former price. Crochet work has been revived for table decoration , and women who have a fondcetx for displaying their own handiwork on their table cfl crochet to their Lean's content. which in the mcst stylish des.gns are always plain I- . ' For round cloths the bloseprns are smaller , and pBHEies or cccrnostifseeun to be tbe favorite flowers. The ceatersiof these cloths , unlike these designed , for-Jong ; or square tables , are ttrewn with ; fl.o crfi. sometimes even email clutters belngiused. Round cloths. In fact all table Haen noJ , lace-trimmed. Ere marked with tejnbroidered initials. For doilies and napkins. th * fi letttio chould be cne iand one-quarterjfcchcfi ! onglxfor ) cloths two and one halfi. laches long. They may be Intertwined or separate but never monograms. Anotherij > olntof difference is that lace-trimmed table linen alone should be hemstitched. Crochet work and , hem stitching is not combined , neither Is it used on the latest satin damask sets. Co'.ored cloths are not to be used , neither are center pieces , embroidered in colors. When em broidered centerpieces are pure white linen ; with linen thread , satin and silk are tabooed , as is also a too elaborate iiee of ribbon. iiAisv's Ditnss itcroitM. To IVlmm It In IJiir nnd How It Clinic Alxint. Mrs. Bertha Janet Gunn , the inventor of the Infant's dress reform , is a sweet-faced , gentle-mannered little woman not resembling In the slightest our Ideal woman ot affaUs. When seen In her "home the talked pleasantly ot her work , but seemed surprised that any one could speak of her invention as other than the mcst natural thing in the world. "Why , it cefnw remarkable to me that some one hadn't thought it out long ago , " she eaid in answer to her vlcltor's question as to what Cret gave her the Idea. "Just think of all these years and years that mothers have looked upon the dally dressing of their little onee as a task to be dreaded , ns uaualling time ' Why , he child is fretted to a frazzle. If it is not in actual pain. I contend with the doctors that whenever a baby screams there is something the matter And , believing there Is something amUe with her child , what mother Is it that would not try her utmost to get at , tbe root of the matter. That is just the way I began. I was worried by my baby's screams when It was being dresred. At first I tried eveiy method I could tl-ink of to shorten the bath Tncn 1 began to think of its little clothes end contrive muns whereby they could be put en in the shortest possible time. This led me to contlu r aad notice each garment separately , and soon began to ece how un- PANSV DESIGN. comfortable eome of them must be , A heavy diaper , for losliuce , which elwas holds tbe child's legs bowt < J out , or tbe flannel bellyband - band which is pulled so tightly around Its yielding little body and fastened with pins that are forer in danger of clipping out and sticking 'mo Its delicate fifth. I began to think of . > baby's whole -w-rdrobe as barbarous , eno. to eet to work to try to im prove them mo garment at a time. Of court * , my object WES to make my own baby comfortable , and eelfUnly I never gave other children a thought. "After moving to tbe east I formerly lived In Ohio I received a letter from a cousin asking me to tend her some pat- ttrni for hyclenlc baby clothts. If such w- hang from the shoulders. Another point about my system which mothers highly ap prove there are no pins , and every part ot the body is equally protected. "What do 'I ' consider the best material for dlapert ? " repeating the question asked by her visitor. "Well I UPC a fine grade of stockinette , so of course I consider that the best. But I think the shape of the garment FIGURED LAWN OVER SILK. I has much to do with its comfort. The old i fashioned square which WEB drawn so tlgh ! over the seat and pinned to the band I be lieve not only caused chafing , but in man ) instances crooked legs. My diaper Is cut or ' the bias , so that the seat Is large and baggy and there is very little cloth to fold be tweu the legs , ho the little legs can lie straight out. Of course my system requirec much thought to perfect it , and undoubted ! ] I would never have thought of dress rcforn for Infants and children , hadn't 1 have hat the ne'ccfcslty brought home to me by raj own child , so you see , after all , my sucecs is but another proof of the truth of the ole adage , 'Necessity is the mother of inven tion. ' " A miinirs si > vsiiiL.i : THOHSSKAU ClotlifH Miolllil IIIClioNin SllHiible t < HIT INikltlon ill I.lf - , Isabel A. Mallon writes of "A Bride's Mexl erate Trousseau" In the * Ladles' Home Jour nal. "The girl who has a fortune at her com mand needs no suggestion * , " she says , "bu the girl who has to think out ibe wUHom o every dollar spent on her trou.sbf.au Is th one who asks for advice. Taking it fo granted , then , that you -will live a more o less social life , having your day at home an visiting your friends , and going occasion ally to hear good mutlc , you can decld exactly what you will need. First of al freshen all the gowna you possess , then yo know their possibilities ; then I would ad vUe one handtome silk drets , combined , per haps , with velvet , and having , to go with II two bodices one for wear when you ar visiting , the other to be used when rathe more elaborate ) dre&s Is required. Have on simple , but rmart looking , wool drese fo street wear ; if required , you might bette omit your visiting costume than this , i bUck skirt , either of moire , fllk or satin will be useful , tince with it there can b worn any number ot elaborate bodices. The you will want , also , a comfortable wrappei to wear In no place except in your ow room ; two pretty , well-fitting , house drtsset a ccat suited to the station ; a wrap that ! a little more elaborate , If you cm afford li but do not make , the mistake EO often mad of buying clothes that are not suited to you po Itlon in life , or , what \a \ equally as bad buying such an elaborate wardrobe that I will go out of fashion. " Knoliluii \ tr * . Mlta Wllcor of the University of Melbourn' ' has received tbe silver medal of the Cobdei club , being the first woman to win the prize Hoe * Oonheur. the famous artist , is seldon eeen in a great city , but loves to live in th country , and especially were there are woodi Miss Ellen Hayes , who has been profeeco of mathematics at Welltkley , ban now hai her department fnl-rgid to 'ane m * i , < .J mtthema'i. s atta Out of the 2000 oij reg's-rars of Krtb and deaths employed In 'England and V nice , eighty-four are nomen and thrr * * re SRS women who act as deputy registrars. The Hon. Ellle Scarlett , whose mother w s formerly MU * Maproder. an AtotrlvKit. has astonished her friends by entering a London hospital for a course In surgery. Mrs. BwiVcr T Washington his a Sunday class In house-cleaning ; each Sunday she takes a negro cabin and thoroughly cleans It as an object lesson to lie owner , with excel lent result ? . It 1. cold. Edna Dean Proctor has Jolne-d mountain climbm ? to poetry , having junt returned Irom a trip of 10.000 mile In South America , where she crossed the plains of Argentina and climbed the Andes. Now she Is going to make a book about it. ot course. Mrs Randall of HoMon , who died Mime time ago , bequeathed J30.009 to the Prospect union , which is composed of situdents aud professors of Harvard ; { 20,000 to Hadcllffe college , and 170.000 to the Foxcraft club of Harvard for a clubhems.e. It li claimed that Ml s Kdith T. Grlswold | Is the- only womtu solicitor ot pa'ents In \'ew York City.- She has her o n office n n Broadway tky-jcrnper and ha been In ler present profession tor twelve jears. She f a graduate of the New York Normal col- ege , Is stud } Ing law , and will soon apply or admission to the bar. 'Mlkfi Hrnrlpttn Wllllame nf tlinXnman * * chool of Applied De lgn of New York-Oty ios woti it prize , after studying art but one ear. Her drawings of animate were ex- optionally fine and the scholarship will ntltle her to attend the school free during he next year. This bright young woman ntends to make a specially of Illustrating. The governor general ot Algeria has given ie charge of a medical mission to the moun- Uns bcjond Biskra to n woman graduate of he University of Paris , Miss Cbellier ; her hlef work will be the care of the native women and children , and she has already alned experience by making two successful ourncys into that part of the country , plac- ig trained nurses at the various stations. The Astor library is to have the services n the public dorunrnl ! : department ot Miss Adelaide R. Hasse , one of the foremost Ibrarlons of the country : the position was > : lven her because of her work In the Vashlngton bureau ot public documents. She has compiled for the Department of Agrl- ulture an Index ot the literature pertaining o that subject covering the period from 1S45 o IfsO. ; Mie also prepared a catalogue of the looks In the Pike library , now In the hous ? f the s-upreme council , and which contains 0.000 rare aud curious books. Miss Hasse eivd her apprenticeship in the Los Augrlee Cal. ) public library. The wife of the Corean minister is well ducated in her own language , and is a tudent of the Chinese classics. She does ot understand English , but is about to oramence the study. IShe is called a very good housewife by he-r people , nnd Is ronp'.dered un excellent seamstrecs , tak- ng pleasure in doing much of the family ewlng. Her manner of dre-ss would lead ne to regard her as being quite stout , but his appearance is owing to tbe number of klrts which her caste demands. In Corea a woman of-ordlnary birth wears one skirt o her gown , and a plane higher allows of wo thicknesses , and so on. FVmSnliM * KnsliloiiK. Whlto mohair still holds its own among avored summer textures. The dominant note of Parisian fashions is he lavish use of transparent textiles of every color , weave and design. There Is a persistent effort In certain ashionable quarters to carry on the rather eeble revival of early Victorian fashions. Small sacque coats , with double-breasted rents falling from a Jetted yoke , are made with Biahop sleeves , and have a collar and rimming of crepe llsse or chiffon. Plain hussar jackets of navy serge iralded. with white cloth revere and cuffs , and golfing caps of Wue serge lined with white cloth are pretty wrajis for tummer evenings. This year the sailor hat Is trying to both men and women. Like an Inch on the end > f a man'e nose , the small addition to H'lght or width of a sailor hat makes all the vital difference between the becoming and the reverse. Sleeves of diaphanous gowns are still very elaborately frilled , tucked , shirred , wrin kled , etc. , from wrist to puff , to match the decorations of the gown itself , but the very atest French eleeve has simply no garni ture ; It Is merely a plain , well-fitted coat { .hope , increasing in size in proportion to tbe arm. Alpines , English walking-hats , turbans and the perennial sailor shapes all those styles which are alwajs in fashion for traveling wear and -general utility usee are more than ever popular this year , golf , tennis , a h-i g anJ I'mR o'vme btlnK tnrotn- lie1 ! ' \ \ dour n finioh of one or the other of these prac'i al model * The for which the tirw douhle-fictd Frcmh cashmere textile * recched lant spring will be greatly Increased the coming sfiBon. Thte fabr * . like all soft wools , lends itself ; mcvt admlrabl ) to the making of gown * r. they are now fashioned. Cashmere looks best In natural colors , and pair fawn , tan and all the varied tints In gray are con * ( .Idrred the most elegant and artistic. Muslins arc made up over delicately rol- oed taffeta rllk * and are finished off by stork and belt of ntlll another color. Many Units the belt Is a * .ah drawn tightly about the waist and tied In a small bow at the back , with A cry long rnds ruffled all round with muslin Sometimes the s sh U muslin Instead of silk or ribbon , and Is very wide , aud flares out crisply at the back with a frill all round. Finest 1-rench organdie In Marie An toinette devices is decidedly one of the marked fatorltee ot fashion , and hat this summer n prom.ent place among her chotca , materials. llattste in lace effect * and crn-f broldrred patterns figures largely in combina tion with foulard silks for revers , fichus , collarettes and other portions of the bodlc and ( sleeve * Sashew. gl'dles celntures that reach well up under the arms jokerhatrlalns anil all the short Figaro Eton. Zouave and bolero SEAM-DOTTED SWISS AND BLVE TAFFETA - FETA RIDBON. Jackets still prominently maintain their hold upon general favor. There Is as yet no change whatever In these dressy and picturesque Items of the fafclonable gown , and tbey are as varied this summer In their smart little guises as the tops of dress sleeves. The most novel of all novelties Is perhaps the tartan muslin , which is just what Its name implies , a thin plaid muelln , usually , of exquisite airiness and large tarfu squares of brilliant Scotch colorings. The ; effect is exceedingly smart , for In some lights the thin plaid loses Itself utterly as the light strikes through It and at another part of the skirt the colors come out In all their Intense coloring. These new muslins are made up over rather dark silks , such' as green , blue and desp red or heliotrope , acco'dlng to the predominating shade In the plaid , and they are made simply ? for the plaid Iteelf Is veiy decorative. Ecru lace Is usually introduced about the bodice and brilliant touches added In stock and belt. belt.A A white mohair gown Is made with a blouse bodice , the front in pleats , but not at all baggy. Over this Is worn a large sailor col lar of white batiste edged with fine ecru guipure. The sleeves are extiemely tight to the elbow and fastened up the outsde | of the arm with tiny stitched silk straps and little pearl and gold buttons. The gored skirt Is lined with green taffeta and etltched pieces of white silk trimmed with the but tons , starting from the belt ended in points at different points on each < > lde ot the front breadth A white -sailor hat , banded with ecru ribbon , a pongee parasol lined with green , and ecru Suede gloves complete this dulnty afternoon costume. .00 for CORRECT 333 ANSWERS ! Host Unique Contest of the Age $200.09 Paid for Correct Lists made by Supplying hissing Loiters in Places of Dashes Ho Lottery Popular Plan of Education Read AH the Particulars. In the TTnltcd fitntes four time1 * as much mosey is expended for education ns for the military. Brain is better than brawn. Kyour educational facilities we have becume a great nation. We , tbo publishers of IVomnti'HVorJd and Jcimchu TTIIIIer JTJoiitlilr , have done much toward the cause of education in many ways , but now we offer you au opportunity to display your knowledge and receive most eoncroun payment for n little Mudy. The object cf this contest is to give an Impetus to many dormant minds to awaken and think ; also wo expect by thlBcompctltiou of brains to extend the circulation ofV < imait' World and JcnncHU Ifllllrr Ulonllily to Mich a size that we shall IKS able to charcr double the present rate for advertising In our columns. By this plan of increasing Ihe numticr of cnlmcrlpilous and receiving more money from advertisers of Reaps , pianos , medicines , iwoks , buklne powders , jewelry , etc. , wo shall add rUOtO u jcur to our Income , and with this jaalhetuutlral deduc tion before us , we hare decided to operate this most remarkable " mUsing letters " contest. " "HEBE'S WHAT YGU flRE TO BO. Them cro thirty irordB in this schedule , from each of which letters have been omitted r.nd their places have ben supplied by duthf * . To till in the blank spaces and get the names properly you must have some knowfe-dce of geography mid history.Vo want jou to spell out as many words an you can , thru send to us with ' > cents to pay for a three months' subscription to YVOJMK'BOULII. . I'ur correct JUtutc ulicll ( five ft'joo.oo In ciu-k. If more than one person t-endiia full , correct list , the money will bcawiudt-d to the fifty bust lists In uppcjirance. AM o , if jour lit-t contains twenty or more correct words , we shull hend yoala beautiful Kjicrta IHumond Scurf EMii ( for lady or gentleman ) , thn regular price of which U $2.2Ji. Therefore , by hendlnc your llu , you are jK . IUvely ciTtatu of the JW.25 price , and by br ine careful to send u ccnwt list you linvnun opjiortunltviif the $2OO.OO cunii nwnrd. The diKtanco that you may live from New York makes no difference. AH have equal opportunity lor winning. winning.FRiZIS mil BE SENT PMPTIY , Prizes trill l > e hnnrntl f awarded and promptly sent. We pnbllfh the llet of words to be studied out. In makliijj your list of answer * , bobure to give the number of each word ; 1 _ R " " fl _ I ' _ A country America. of South B 8 M K A noted ruler. 2 B I I Xameof of tuelnTRWtljody water. 17. C T 0 " I Anothernotrdruler. " 3- MDE - A-E-- A U. J8 PR U A Country of Europel 34. 4. M 0 A large river. J9- A - 8 T A - I A big island. - 5- T A--S Well known river of "O M _ _ I IJ _ C Nome of the most 56. Europe 1 " t prominent American. 6. R B U _ _ A city In of tbo fl . - , onn 0 H n / .Southern fctuUa. 21. T A ° " ° cf tljo United States. 7- H X A city of Canada. J" " Onro President of li r n 78. tbo United blales. 8. Noted for display of . N-A-A-A water. - U - - H A larco late. E--E--E- One of the United E _ - E.ft - N A noted poet. 10. - fl - R | - A city of Spain. ] Ej2 f n. H-V--A known B - H --0 A largo island. A well known old fort 8-M-E- W-M--S - - - W-R-D of thu United States , Greatestfortlflro- 28. B--H - , I - G-A * * * tlon In the world. = 9- A - L - N - I - An orciin- , s. C-L-F---I- ° ne > of tbe Unl- ° . M - G 8 - A - tea Buites. 3 - JjG - AaSSJeiir ! ? ? In V wendlnz yonr lint ofvordu. , . mention whether you want prize money sent by i bank draft inouiy order or registered mall ; wo will wud any way that wiuntnt n-oulrc , The liKirla ; Diamond is a iHjrfcct ] imitation of a Ural Diamond of laree wze. Wcdcfy experta to dlstlnBUlBlj it from real except by microscopic test. In mery i sicft It btrvta the purpote ot firiiulne. Diamond of 1'urekt Quality. H IB artistically mounted In a linucold-pluitd pin , warranted to wear forever. Thispieceof jewelry will make u won cleirablo plfi to u friend it you do not need It yourtelf. At prweutourkcppfy of lutbeilluUlimllod : , uudif they are all cone when your set of answers comes in.vo .hall t > eod > on f.2.26 in money lustead of the bcurf or bbaxrl VI n , bo yoq thall either recch e tbe plrce of Jewtbr or the equivalent in cash , in addition to your participative interest In the * 2OO.OO ca.h pri7.c. TbU < nllre otter U an liuncwl ; one , made by a resjionsiblo publUlilue house. We refer to mercantile URII - rleai and any bank iu htr York. We will promptly refund money to yon If you ore dlnatl * . Ced. > \ hat more can we def Now study , and exchange Might brain work for cabh. With your lUtof answers iiend iiS ceiitu to pay for thrtte months' euUicrlptlon to ocr creal family uia azliie , IVoiiiuii'n IVorld. If you Imve alruadyeubhcribul , mention tbut fact In yonr letteranil we will exleud your eubacriptiou from tbr lime tbe present one expires. To avoid loss InfleniiinBUlver , wrap money very carefully In paper Ix'fornliieiostun in yourletUr , Addrtkw JAMES H. PLUMMER. Publisher , 22 & 24 North William Street , Dept. 517. 1 _ How York City , H.Y.