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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 4, 1897)
TUT : ( VMAIIA DAILY UI3K : STXHAT , JTLY 4 , 1807 , fe i ! I IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. , . .iiiMiv'MiiiiirN' iiMiirv"Miiiiir\ iMioriTMii.i ; in \ ING. Trniptlnu lln ruiilnOITiriil \Viinn-n \V hit Miop Out nf Season. XEU YORK , July I. The season for sensations Is over , but there Is no less xn'ii'-h 'ntcrprlse dtfiplajed than formerly. nd rm n who shop In season and out are just now looking for bargains. If It Is j > ow > iH ( > to posfoss one's soul In patience and forbror engaging In the early scramble for si nng novelties , this Is the appointed time f-r shrewd and profitable buying "Marki-d down' Is the legend on all the thoj'lt"pers' banners and clever woman can Just now fit herrclf out completely for the mimmd at ono half tin1 price she would have bun obliged to pay six weeks ago , sln'e evervthing , from a blcjclo suit to a wedding costume , In offering for a reduced price For K. or ? 8 Ptnart little wheeling dresses ro going , made1 In two colors of linen The skirt and Jacket are brown , for instance , Lut all the buttoned poeketflaps , culls , rover" trapt and collar ere oak green or buubirs blue There are green linen and brown straw hats to go with these , and as a las' invention of the blejde genius , really pretty little- brown and grot-n pongee para- v/ls. for i lamping nn the back of one's scat , or on lln' center of the handle bar , are sel ling \\hfrc these have came from It Is dlfTlrult to find out , but they are here and the fair cyclists nt the famous watering places are- using them thankfulljIt must bo understood that they are not largo , and are onlv useful on dajs when there Is no broe-n > but" much hot sunshine , warranted to tan ami freckle HICYCLE IIELOXOIXGS. Ilc ilf the parasol Innovation , another do- vlro of the psc-udo countrywoman Is that of wearing the gajost of gingham suits awheel. This need not bo at all blcvcle suits , but any I IM-.MN SIUC AXD LINEN. pliigham gown you elect to wear , its full skirt caught up In a series of plaits , and the whole drawn up and pinned to the belt nt the right side by means of a big strong pin . < ith a safctj catch This pin comes In the form of a big silver wheel and , at the shop where jou buj the pin. Ihey show j-oti how to usj jour now bit of Jewelry so that nny s-or' of a ckirt becomes perfectly com fortable for riding Of cjii'hc this pinning up a skirt to fall In pretty safe folds aboil' the frame and saddle Is a van Improvement In expense on the jmrcha&e of a hot , han ! tome , costly new cjcllug habit , which manj a woman six weeks ago felt she must "Imply have. 'iien , inor over , to prove the advancing economy in fashion one's wheel pin , when not serv ing to hold up one-'s dress , can bo utilized ah a belt buckle , for a silver wheel Is the bucKle now scon ovcrjwhere. Thu belt It holds need not ho a hard stiap of leather , like a fiction of haincss , which was. when the season opened , considered the belt or belts , but n bioad slrlp of Ihe sofl- ftt doeskin , oithe-r white. i > ale tan , pearl gray starlet , or ll/jid green , charmingly worked in steel or colored beads. This latest Klrdly is meant for wear with any and all Kowns U draws , like a bias piece of fllk. In folds about the waist and in front , either pins together , letting fall pointed beaded ends , or draws into a knot. SUMMER JBWELHY. It Is numbered ttmong the perquls'tce o' the belated thopper. who IH alee indulg'ng her taste for Jewelry , such pretty summer DrmiimntB an they are First and foremost ranl'i the souvenir bangle They say braee- MB will be worn almi t extravagantj ) next iwlnttr and that HIM bangle 1 Its fore- runnir Just a thread of tllver encircles the aims and on It Is strung an assortment of queer little tllver figures. Cocks , pigs , pelf balls , dice , mermaids , champagne Lattli's , fat hevtlen ; at any rate , nt leeM fight small , roughly made , soild silver fig ures are threaded on every bangle , and the Idea of this lollectlon Is that admiring young nun can add other quarter Inch long figures to It or coitaln figures can be given awaj * R suuu-nlrs cf momthlti lhat will be epochs In summer life Iltsldo the bangles , there Is a flurry In enameled Venetian ornaments for use these next ffw nonths Venetian Jewelry IB lovely * 11 the flick pins , brooihes , studs and cuff buttons being enameled In bright harmonious rolois and so che-aply does It fcell Just now that one can affonl to buj a set of etutl and buttons to suit every ehlrt waist , and brouches to harmonize with eve'y organdie cown SOME SUMMER MODELS. After jill. mature consideration , following on active Impulse , It has been decided Ihal organdie In a solid tint is far simmer , rspiclally for moinlnt , weui' , than the figured goods ; that If jon wish to buj perfcctlj serviceable forenoon dre-ss mohair Is the desirable goods unl that the tnosl taking llttle morning wrup .s a hohu of silk j-ullle * with long rash ends The nketi'hos ccumpanjlng the text lllustiato some * of these new maxims , and also what type of Kown is now under the hammer , or rather Is wtaring a placard bearing the alluring notice marked down " Eight weeks ago thefo and their companion fro"kh were enugly closeted In those holj of holies in the Importing derailments , lor t-how only to the great cues of the earih who keep carriages , accounte and J-avo a taste for paying vast prices. Jlt'ie they nro down at rrdsonablo rules , ready to fall Into th * clutches of the woman who kiowa i.o > v to alt and who recognizes a genuine ) bargain nhen she uees II He Ins a person who Jsnows what Is the very re'cint thing In J'lirln oho tuVes naturally 10 the little brown linen gown with the frills It Is a lovelj , flue linen and the frillu are all the narrow est possible plaltlngs , ef Kprlng gre'cn taf- fetu blllt headed , everj frill , by a band of preen gimp , a fourth ot an Imh wide. On cklr > and bolero thej are Juu alike , the cli'evc has two loops ol green ribbon un the shoulder and there frills out , between the bolero frciua. a vest made ot overlapping platting of green chllTon if the roar of the . 'oun wi shown lv isould be se n thai all the gimp and frll- llngk ran horizontally across the back of the bolero , for 1'urU i > aja It Is just as Im portant now to trim the back of jour waist as the front. This , of covirre , U a chance not to be lost by droksmakerg , who will cither run baby plaiting or ruUles , cither across or up ii ; rtov > p curj waist they' ' have Another poptilu. idea N Ith them Is to make a sunburst back Plil 1' lili.i ribbons or boadlisg to tun raj-like lines , of varying lengths from the tvaist line up as high as the shoulder blades Hut remember that the wfe frilla aio first In the hearts of our oountrjwomen nnd that next In their afloctlon l a material calle > d grenadine , but made of still and wool Interwoven and Invariably loloitd in medium checks of two shades of brown or t\vo of green. Then , too. a word as tonaMus There Is always a lest word to bo FB.M ol lhe e pretty streamers that now ate made often of chiffon and knotted rxnetly on the high hip In fact all waistbands , except liather belts , nnifit fasten there , nnd to know the exact spot on which to adjust tliD knot jou must let jour left arm hang by your hide Thin sot the knot exactly opposite your elbow on the Jut of the hip bone and go your way rejoicing. JILACK SWISS. If there is any one material that Is i < corlng more triumphs this hot weather than anr otl.or It Is the black ewlss muslin. They tell jou In the hr > m that th'n ' has become the fashion since the terrible Paris flro , and that all the ladles of quality In Prance are wearing It for summer mourning , with jards and j a rite of crepe do chine ribbon. Uut our aristocracy Is happily not In unl vp" M mourning , so Ihcy are wearing black swiss over white silk slips , and sashes of crepe ribbon , which looks very like oreped ihitfon. Of conrs-e the muslin It tortured Into milieu , and IH verj much plaited , and one and all thei > e eklrts an- shirred about the hips. One dressmaker of taste gave It out for the benefit of a customer that the bett way to hang a bummer skirt Is to cut In three , four or five perfectly straight wldthn. Thifi' miiht be sewed up , selvage to selvage , and then rows of rMrrlng or curding or clu tira of perpendicular tuckb Introduced atone ono end. ly ! this simple means the skltt. from the hip down , bangs full and oven , and no gotlng Is necessary. Another fantasy of the dreos- nmKora this latu in the day Is that of tuckIng - Ing silk waists on the blaw. Tucks behind and before , tuekehl yokes , and tucked sleeves we have had ad nauseam , and now , bj way of nllef. the netdle woman either laysJucXs In a waist front from the right shoulnor to the left side of the waist , all across the bust , or she lajs her geode on the bias and proceeds then to tuck It. The effect Is feurcly plezslng , but the last named method must be done by hand , else the goods \\lll pull and Ihe work bepolled. . The tucks can be as wide 01 narrow as preference dictates and the whim now Is to tuck the back In the opposite direction , that Is. from the left shoulder down , to the right hip "corkscrew tucking , " this is very appro prlatcly called. We never know what time may bring forth and what contiadicllons we maj be guilty of In the name of fashion. This mor.iliza- llon Is inspired by the sight of manji lovely women. whet > c taste N above reproach. wearIng - Ing their morning ginghams open jiiot B little at the throat A jear ago we would have said , "How shocking" how unsmart ! ' So today we are > -ajinK "How sweet ! how becoming ! " and It is both. Xow. by open is not meant decollete but Just opening In a point beneath the chin half a linger' ! : length , to show the pretty neck and where It grows Into the shoulders. The opening Is only In front , and It Is either a tlnj hquaro. Into which could hardly be fitted a viMtlng card , or a V , about at * wide as can be made by opening two flngem. At back and sides the neck is flnMicd flat and some women wear necklets of soft chiffon witn gowns cut this waj. In the dos dajo a delightful scn e of cool ease is cn- joje-d in theae momlng feiiltn and Ihe open throat is a perfectly natural reaction from the several seasons of choking collars , pro digious ruffs and such like enormitien Hut if the women are just learning to be cool and comfortable they have never denic-1 that light lo Ihe children See th sketch for example , of a little boy's tiavellng cloak' It Is brown linen , trimmed with white braid and held at the waist by a white leather belt. Courtesy callh it a cloak. It Is In reality a dress , for when traveling the little man wears his undergarments only beneatli It. and he is at his ease in hot trains , etc The linen cape is a movable piece of ele- gan- , and even bis pretty shoee have soles of leather , but vamps and tops of brown linen to match h s dte-ss. XIX \ FITCH. nrrr CI.OTHIS KOII in\i/rn. Many 111 * 1'rriiitnl > l < - liy A 1.1 ( ill I-ri > I n red CI o I 111 u tr. A Xcw York phv-slclan said recently to a patient of hU > . a lady of wealth , that he would refuse to treat her further if she did not give up wearing black It was not , how ever , until a discussion ensued that he found out how much he was asking , not only were her gowns blac'i , but her underwear through out was of tliei t > ame color. The doctor thei remarked that ho had considered the alter native ho offered her , to abandon black gonns or flnd another phjslclan , an extreme meas ure and only Justified because of her pecu liarly nervous ind neurotic state , but whet it came to discovering thai she had nothing but black clothes upon her perron he would refuse to treat anybodj co dressed. The "peculiarly nervous and neurotic state" he considered largely explained bj this dress alone. Ho succeeded In effecting a change In this patient's attire throughout. Insisting on white , all white underclolhes , and as inn'h use of white In Ihe outer garments aa was practicable. There are hundreds of women similarly 111 , and dressed as oho once -vas. who have no Idea that anything but a question of taste Is Involved In the color of thflr garments. They would not expect a plant covered up from the sun by repeated lajers of black cloth to flourish , hut thej do not know that light and sunshine are necessary to their bodleo. They think If they sr > o It , If their oycs are blessed thereby , and thus their minds cheered , that light has performed its good work upon them The whole body needs light , and sunshine Is well recognized as having the most valu- abUi lu'allng properties ; upon the nervous Sjbicm It act with especial force , and sleeplessness , nervous headaches and Irri tability can often all bo cured by sun baths alone Hut physical Ills can be prevented of toner still simply by wearing light cloth- Ing. The outward dross it may be Imprac ticable to alwajs govern with an oje single to thlo one consideration , but the under clothing can and should be aluajs white Every Instinct of the nicest taste leads to the same conclusion Nothing else gives such assurance of that oxqulstivo cleanli ness which Is the most decorative thing pos sible , and the fact that It interposes the h t ; | possible barrier to the health-giving rajs of the light Is conclusive In Its favor. A SVH vet sn winTr\\ ; i..v\vi 1:11. Ciiinikt-l III ii CIIKI > , nlHi Ili-Scnatiir Illx-nrl. IIM HIT Opponent. All through the greater part of the session relates the Rochester Herald , a joung prettj and well-dressed woman sat quietly In ono of iho rear beats In the court room. As women seldom appear in the ap pellate court there was much speculation among those present as to who bhe was and what ha.1 occasioned her prc'senco there Late In the afternoon , when the case of Charles E Mlllon respondent , against the Xew York Central Hallroad company , ap pellant , was calletl up for argument , the joung worran to the astonishment of every body In lht room , calmly arose and walked up before the bar , where bhe took a seat as one of the counsel. Ex-lTnlted States Sena tor Frank lilt-cock o' Syracuse appeared as attorney for the railroad company , and then It trautplred that the woruuu represented the rcfepondenl In the case. She was Miss Julia Jenny of Sjra- cuse , a member of the well known law firm of Jenny & .Marshall of that cltjT Although onlj0 jears of age. the has already galnel the reputation of being one of the brightest lavvjer In this section u ( the state. Six Kara ago the graduated from Yaeear col lege with hifc-h houoru , and ibto tillered Co.- ndl i t'nlve-isltj Law school for a two yours' course ( Iurlng her Ftav there she was con sidered to be one of the brightest Btudtn < In I the inatltutlon A short time after eom- iletlng the course she tiled tlio state law < x- mlnatlon and WAR admitted to the bar Miss Jinny's father Is Colonel William c-nny. one of the most prominent anil-cor- loratlon law j or * , in the state and the senior nembcr of the firm of Jenny & Marshall. Utor being admitted lo the bar Miss Jinny jecame a clerk In her father's ofllce. and IBS since shown so much ability In the han dling of dlincult cases that -he was recently made a member of the firm. Mips Jennj Is a handsome woman of th > brunette1 type and a very fluent , eloquent and convincing speaker. In the cour e of the argument of the case she proved herself to be a worthy opponent la every way of her distinguished antagonist , ex-Senator lins tock. noti.MI > I- < > \ . Mont Popular \\uiiiiui In the I'll I toil Mutt1 ! * In Her la > . "Xo woman Is ? more closely or fondly as sociated with the white hout > < > than Dolly Madison , " writes Clifford Howard in the Ladles' Home Journal. "During the eight jears that her husband occupied the position of secretary of state under Jefferson's admin istration t > he was almcst as frequently called upon to do the honors at the receptions and letees at the president's house as In her own home , where she entertained In a delightful and sumptOous manner She was , therefore , fully prepared for the duties that devolved upon her as mli'tress ' of the white house upon the election of Mr. .Madison to the presidency. In the graceful and skillful performance of her delicate task the gained the admiration of every one , and added to the popularity she had already won both for hersc'f and her hu ° band Through the potent influence of her personal charms , to which were added a frank and cordial manner , a sweet , ingenious demeanor and the happy faculty of adapting herself to the views of those about her , the readily became a general favorite. Hefore her reign at the white house wa concluded she was the most j opiihr woman In the United State- . " * Mr. Howard lucidly tells of the incldentc leading up lo the liuaslon of the national capital by the British forces and pictures the terror and excitement of the people of Washington , who tied fboutlng , screaming , Jostling one another under foot , into Vii- glnla as the enemy approached. President Madison had gone to the front and his wlfo was anxiously awaiting his return , in fear for bib safely The while house aliaches had nearly all dewrted their postf , hut Mrs. Madison had packed all her hus band's papers and records , and as she was about to abandon the house , bethought her self of General Washington's portrait The hea\y frame enclosing It was broken bj a sen ant with an aie , and BUC remo\ed the can\as with her own hands , keeping It from falling Into the hands of the enemy. "It was then , " writes Mr. Howard , "JuM as she was In the act of bunylng away , tha Dolly Madison was selred with an In spiration that will e\er cause her name to live In the heart of every tine American She stopped to think. What If the white house should he burned' ' Did It contain anj thing ofaluo to ihe government that he had neglected' The Declaration of In- DHOWS' UXEN COAT. dependence * In a ( lath the called to muni this most precious of all documents. Care fully treasured in a case apart from the other papers it had been overlooked in the worrlment and confusion. It must be saved at all hazards ! Without a moment's hesi tation bhe turned and ruthed back Into the house 'Stop1 for heaven's sake rtop1' cried her friends , \aiulj endeu > oring to Inter , ept her HcgfirdltM of th ir com- munds , regardless of her d n , cr the braxo woman spul to the roan rponfalnlng the treasure for whlih * hi tfas'Jwllling to s i- rlflco her life Without irtrmptlng to op n the glazed door of the pasp phe shattered the glass with her clenched .han.l. snat.-hed the priceless parchment , , nnd. waving It ex ultantly above her ho.nl liurrleil to the door , where she entered Jier carriage and was rapidly driven auaf In the direction of Georgetown. " u n \7,7. v ri HM'rt HI : . Article * Drxluncil In Ciintrllinto tii < ) nr' Comfort , There was a time vvhrn In our tnoro northern towns and 'villages furniture adapted especially for \lso \ on the plaza was unheard of , when , cvon a chilr as considered a blot upon the fair surface I of the shining floor and the barren , spot less cleanness of the "front stoop" wae a thing to bo wondered at , Xowndajs' Ah , nowadajs things rre different , and even in pnrltanlcil New England one sees brilliantly colored ham mocks and comfortable rocking chairs gleaming through rira-covered trellises , of living They found on the crest o a hill overlooking the l ko at Wlnnctk * forty. minutes' r llr > Aj ride from Ch cage a place which tfemrd nn Appropriate setting for1 thflr hou e-hold gods He'O they built a fpaclous but Fimplo hotno , ami wcro soon i followed by a little colony ot tholr friends j nnd adherents Including oven recruits from the fa hlonable set Their home abounds In bookn , plcturea and Dimple comforts , but one finds there no heavy curtains and rich hangings , no elegant bits of furniture or costly brlc-a-brac. nothing. In fact , that bespeaks - speaks luxurj. wealth and care to the housekeeper The table Is wholesome anil abundant , but perfectly simple and Dimply served. Elaborate dishes arc tabooed , nor Is thett1 any evpicslvo glass or china for maid or mlstioro to worry over. The table Is alwajK set with five or six extra covers , and there arc rarelj tower than fifteen or twenty people at dinner , for Mrs. Llojd'o I hospitality Is without limit ; It Is the hu man being , not h's station or attainments that Intent-Is her. She Icavetj no chance for one to question the sincerity of her hos pitality. It Is when thrown Into dally contact with Mrs l.loyd tli.il one realizes the extent of her elimination from life of all those unessential * VFTERXOOX GOWNS. which shelter this t < arne front stoop. These out-of-door parlors can tin made delight fully charming , and , fortunately , simple and pretty piazza furniture Is within the icach of almost every one. Hammocks , of' ' course , are wanted , presided one has space I enough to hang them , 1 j And easj chairs , divans and tables. Jt i Is not every one who can buj these things I outright , and there is really no need , for hero are a divan , a ' 5-o'clock tea table and a work or a reading stand , all to be made at home. This Is made of a box covered with matting The box choeen for this purpose WORK STAND AND TEA TAIiLE. should be of a convenient height and with square ends If pesible. Afler the matting has been neatly tacked on. sliohes made of wood and painted white are secured to the box with either iron or wooden brockets as shown in illustration. In pulling on the brackels It Is beet to screw to the box two narrow strips of wood Just below the place the shelf is to occupy. When the bracket is screwed to the shelf the edge eif the shelf Is placed resting on the cleats or bt-ips of wood , and the bracket 'H ' screwed to the box and the shelf to the cleats , as in fig 2. Thus te-curely fastened the shelf be comes Immovable and there is not the slightest danger of Its slipping or tipping. This can be made of anj- ordinary E/juaro- topped table one may happen to have , or a small kitchen table with legs painted while Is oven better , as one may -drive tacks Into IU wood without compunction. Thu Illustration shows how the table 1t covered with matting with ( laps hanging from its four sides These flaps are turned up at the bottom to form pockets for papers , magazines or tewing The tea box matting will bo found bi-at for this use , and any folds or creases may be profseil out of It by Jusfdampiiiing the matting , then spreadIng - Ing It out and placing on top fiat boards and heavy weights. When , the matting Is dry It will be smooth anil Hat. The pockets can be made to cling clo&ely to the flaps by pre-ssing In this way * The edges of the matting arc bound with tuikey red cotton How convenient such a be | * > cketed little stand must be any one who has trle-d to keep her | Kssrsslor together when e-njoylng a bric'zy day on the piazza will umVrstand. \vir.mrvN MJII : . TOLSTOI. Mrx. lli-nrj , | > I'M | FjiUliful Follovv- IIIK In HIT liver , Ull > l.lri- . Even 1n this emancipated generation women arc not wanting whoso chief glory and happiness lies In becoming the incar nation of their husband's , principles and Ideals. All the world acknowledges the magnificent heiolsm of Mine. Tolstoi In chferfully taking up the life which her husband's genius and mental attitude Im posed upon her ; and in America we find B sweeter and more sane exponent of the same principle In the lifo of Mrs. Henry Lloyd , who&e husband's important works on socialism. "Wealth Against Commonwealth , " etc , are well known. I | Mrs Llojd was the daughter of Governor Dross ot Illinois , and , aa Jessie Dross was exceedingly popular In society , naturally formed wldt and distinguished social con nections Several jeers after her marriage Mrs Llojd't father died , leaving a quarter of a million dollars to each of her four little eons , with the proviso that the estate remain intact , and only the income used. Mr and Mru Llojd have chosen for their family home a place In perfect har mony with ttuir blmple , unirammelcd mode under the burden of which so many women break down. The carelessness of eervantt , failures of dressmakers , extortions of millin ers , worry of social functions do not cMst for her. Thio freedom from the shackl's of fash ion and ceremony leaves her mind perfectly fre'sh , untrammeled and sweet. Should one go to her with some annojlng little tale or petty gossip , she simply wipes the thing out of existence for jou as well as for herself , sajlng0 , let us not think about that. What souls are we going to meet at dinner tonight ? " That 'is ' what the dinner hour Is. a meeting of souls. Mr Llojd , out of hi largo knowledge aM tremendous grasp of affalis , gives himself roj-ally In conversation whllo Mrs. . Llojd , at the head of her own table , Is never anything but witty , good- humored and brilliant. The table In Itself represents a little world of culture and grace ot lofty thoughts and ( he communion of real knowledge. One feels himself lifled upon Ihe same high plane. You cannot be 'In the house any length of time without being drawn Into Mis. Llojd't > work. Hefore you Know It , quite of your own volition , you are ad dressing circulars , making garments , teaching children or In tome other way living for your neighbor. It Is extremely doubtful that Mr * . Lloj'd's methods could be adopted without reserve by the average woman , but her rich person ality and all-pervading magnetism glvo the Indorsement to whatever she chooses to do A background of wealth and social position la In Itself a sort of indorsement , thougl Mro. Llojd would be the last to recognise that factor. The four boys are- manly , \lrllo little fellows , and are deeply Imbued with the domlnallng principle of their homo , fight Ing many mock and real battles In the name of justlcrv When tholr father Is engrossed in working out some perplexing problem , they have been trained to remove their boots In pasing his door , that IiU thinking may not be disturbed They arc great readern of history , biography , and aril specially interested in chivalry. Hearing once that Mrs Abby Sage Richardson was coining to their hotno to give a lecture ) 01 "Ciilvalry , " they proceeded to pick up al the old tin and metal they could find ot the place , and for dajs welded and forget ! until they lied made themselves complete suits of armor , Including swords. Dressct in these they silently stationed themselves two and two on cither eldo of the hall to await the arrival of the distinguished lady. Tin : coii.ii : < ; IIIL e/it u t ATI : . HI-KIT In IMII n simple I'nrt I. < MIIK | ! > TimM i : iilolt I'riifiiiniil Kruilltlim. Edwaid W. Ilok writes to the college girl graduate in the Ladles' Homo Journal. "Whatever the necessities , her desires or ambitions , " he tajs. "Itt her not forget that first of all she was designed by God to be a woman , to live her life In true womanliness so lhat she may be an inspiration , a slrength a blessing , not netersarily to a world , but what Is infinitely better , to those within her Immediate reach whose lives are touched bj hers Very few live-s are fre-e free to go ant come , travel , road , study , write , think , paint and King at will. In the lives of most wome-n tlit'te gifts are an aside In life , as it were , an underbreath Most of us are bettet wilt loving callt * of toll , care , responsibility ant quiet duties , which we must recognize- , here and obey. We must love our motheit * inert than our Greek II ihe Insllncl of daughter sister , wife or mother dies out of a college bred vvoman , c-u-n in the course ot & bnllla .t earcer the weirll vvi 1 fn i , < t 'o love her It will c , o > n lur a > .1 JeiMlj If she dors not maK hrr su roi.nlft.Mi h HUe wherever she Is win tint chrbe teacher artist rmie t isn , writer daughter at homo , or it mother In the hou cbold , nnd If she herself Is not cheery and loving dalntv In dress , gentle In intnntr , anJ beautiful In enul ne everj true woman ought to be the world will feel that the ono thing needful Is lacking , vivid , tender \vomatillnes , for whlih no knowledge , however profound can over e-ompensate. It Is better for .1 vvoniin lo nil a simple human part lovingly , botte-r to be sjmpathetlc In trouble , and te > whisper n , comforting meosago Into but one grieving oar. than that rhe should make a path to Esjpt and lecture to thousands on Hticle-nt Thebee. " I'imltliiit Nni" > . \ graj feather bo.i Is one of the necessities of a fashionable outfit Just nt piesent. Lavender blue and the deeper Irls-purplo blue are iwo vo y fashionable colors Just at the moment both In drops and mllllcory. 1'arls has been t Mzed with a mighty crnrc lor enormous hips , which moans the coming skill will be made full on the hips lo carry out this i fleet providing Mine la Mode gives the nod of approval. Swiss embroidered muslin of the finest kind ii made up Into dainty summer gowns over silk linings , and pretty figured lawns are linked from the knee to the deep hem as thej were joars ago. Transpaient effects , play a latge part In summer mlll.ncij , and mull , chiffon , not and tulle are shirred into the pretties. ! shaped hats , with both llghtnesj In color and weight to ru'Otmnend them to favor. Short boleros and Etons arc made of out work and of embroidery and lined with the thin silk These are considered very smart with anj sort of wash gown , and glvo a piotty finloh that is both becoming and smart. "Tea ba kctti' are an English novelty , like a bag In form but pt > constructed HS tn make a safe rcteptaclo for cilm | and S.IUCOIH and alcohol l.imp , for a couple of persona bound for HII afternoon In the woods or ou the shoie. Ribbon bolts made of two lengths of ribbon folded and oiosce-d on the hips so that thcj form points back ai.d front are a useful ac- ccsssorj of dies. ' , olnce they are boned and hooked In front , and , consequently , are al- wajs In place. HONOS am now made for women's hats ex actly like. In general stjlo , to those long bought for tnen'K high silk hats. They are of leather and lined with eott quilted silk , but miiflt , of course , bo of n much larger shape to Hold thw blggeet possible picture headgear. The prideof the progressive rider this sea son Is centered In her now "diamond-frame ' skill. T'li.s ' skirt , which Is < * pcct.illj de signs ! for the girl who rides her brother's wheel , K a clover combination of divided klrt and walking skirt , raoli complete and in no way suggesting the other. Gowns of net trimmed with lace have also capes of lace and net , but Valenciennes Is not pul with the ni't , as It is a lace which seems to accord bettor with chiffon or noussellne tie sole Cluuy lace Is again In ashlon. and Is much i'sed In Ibese capes , c are also guipure and heavj' Irish point. Thu handsomest of all the wraps made up this season are thoseof lace , and the soft leanllful fabric never "hows to gnaler ad- .antago than when It Is used for this pur- iooe. Colored linings of tatfetn silk throw nit the pattcin in bold relief , but even a alack lining Is powerless to destroy the Icsign. There has been a stendj demand this eea- on ten fancy mohairs- , and these the manu facturers have produced in a very attractive variety of patterns. Some of the designs liave narrow stripes in openwork effects , and these aie made up over silks who o con- traMing colors show effectively through the fancy meshes A trio of bridesmaids at n u'ccnt wedding wore gowns of pink glace silk , veiled with cream silk gauze sprigged with rosebuds in shadc'd silk ? . The skirts were trimmed with insertions of laco. and the round , surplice bodices were bautkd at the waist with soft pink silk -irfs The chip picture hats were heaped with pink roses , lace , and satin rib bon loops. The hair of children is receiving more at tention than formerly. It Is not comme il faut for a child from 3 to 7 to wear long ringlets , even 'if ' she has the hair. Ttie toft locks must be trimmed even at the nock and curled In ono short wave. The front hair ( may bo banged straight , or prettier still is the tlnj part with the ringlets caught vsith narrow ribbon over e'ach ear. One of the most fascinating of all the summer gowns is one of while llberly Ellk trimmed to the waist with accordlon-plaitet Houncps. The blouse Is plaited and trimmec with lace insertion , and the collar and belt art' of pink mlrolr velvet A pretty ide-a for a matron's evening gown Is carried out In black net over white silk , with bands of fine jet and steel on Ihe skirt and bodice ami bows of black velvel on the shoulders. Decidedly novel and pretty gowns of white silk ctamlne , made In revived Louis XVI styles have been worn by bridesmaids at recent June weddings Some of the gowns were lined and trimmed with cool , golden- green silk , with satin ribbons to match I'alc rose-pink linings and ribbons lln'shed other vvhlto etamine gowns , the maid of honor wearing snow-white etimlne lined with wh.tc taffeta , with sleeve-puffs of white satin ant Louis Quln/e s sh to cot respond. This Fo son It Is the fa. hlen to have EO many different styles of wraps and cloaks not to mentlcrt coaU and Jackets , thai thej form quite an extra Item ot exiwnse Al though the sleeves of all the gowns are ma terlally smaller , In EO far as they take mud less quantity to make them , ihe rnlllos , epau lettes and cuffs make the t-liouliii-rs as bro.ii as ever , and consequently wraps have to be shape-d accordingly ; but It Is not necessarj to have the capes o long as last season when thej" reached to the elbow , and were held out by the big upper sleeves. IViul ii I iu NfittN. The queen rcgenl of Spain has recolvet from Iho pope a present of a handsoip rosary , composed of diamonds rubies am emeralds , on a gold chain. The gift wa presented by the Xnnclo of Madrid , Miss Frances I ckwood Ore-en , n cousin of Rudjard Kipling , has Just written a fas clnating book entitled "White Repulchtes Queen Victoria has won several prizes fn short horn catlle al Ihe Roj-al Agrlcullnr.i show which is still In progress The prl/e are < or breed championship , and one wa the Short Horn society $50 prl/e The prizes offered by Miss Helen SI Gould to the students at iho Tarrytowi 1'IXK LAWN. public school are three one for declamation for which Klrls at well as boys are to com pete ; one for the best essay on "Washing Ion's Patriotism " and ono for the best ex amlnatlon in civics. Sinter Marie Madeline , one of the victim of the Purls fire , U said to have had a pre sentiment that slit- would be burnc-d ally that day. She intimated this to other tin tors before marling for the bazaar. Blste Marie belonged to the Orphanage- th llllml Sir and Mrs Astor entertained a uunite M MYnfJ' ' ' ' ( lo muiiiun n vvhUh ih imnd * of elol- make a tmio.if ; ! ) an.l reliable It Riven nymp- tt m of , iil > l . * an i tre.itimnt for the M.iiivuii s lemi .1 e a separate cute for HEALTH If in iKuibt wtlte to I'llnP MI'S VOX lfi\ > Arch street , Philadelphia t'a , for fieo inedl- i al ailvlt i- SPECIAL ANNOUNCEMENT tlolui II.Vooilliur.v. . ' sjMH'Iul New1 Yoik Mirpouiilll bo at Ills Chicago HU'i1 , KSl State' Mm' ! , corner Monroe- ul.Mli. . . for emo wool ; , to iiorfonn opcr- tlinis for clmnplns ; and cornvtliiR fl'at- iral Iriognlarttlc-i mill doforniHIcs of the ace and body of every nature. Ap- tolntui'Mits for till * spi-olal woolt must bo undo ut unco. I'vcrj one tnnv \ gvd looking now. If oil don't like jour fine It inn be changed erj onslh The operations nio palnle-s1 * . 'here Is hardlj n face tual cannot be 1m- iio\cO. It l no longer nocoKUiry to KU htouch : ifc with tin- face unil features na me gave jou. U yon don't like jour nose It can foa Imnni'd to suit jou , nnil If jour car" , mouth r other features arc not satlbfactoij. thoj- . FI.AT XOSF.S coimixrrnn. oo , can lie tmprovcil In short , there lie o blemi h , irnuk or defonnltj In , on or lin er the skin that cannot bo painlessly and ermnnontly eradicated The place w hero hese lemaikable linpiovemcnis upon nature re peifcrtne.1 Is at the Jo'i.i \Vooilbury H-rmatologlcnl Inflltuto , 103 State street , 'hlcago. OUTSTAXPlXel n.\HS IMl'ltOVKD IicrmiiloliiKlM. Woodlmrj ha ? had over ' suc'Cosiful experience In wiqtysijours' in ing --kin'diseases and eradicating facial i i-mNho" At the main establishment ami at each iranc-h theie Is a line smile electric ma- , ES ERADICATED , chine. Treatments fiom the e machines nro very beiiellcl.il in ciw ot iheumallFm , lemalKla , stiffness and sole-ness and ner ve us tll'-e.i es. There is no shock or dla- oblng. John II. Wciodlniry also manufacture : ! \ \ oodbury'H Facial Soap. Facial Cream , Facial Powder nnd Dental Cream. HJs M jear- > ' experience tieating the kln and com- lexlon glve-s bis a pracllcal know ledge of tue requirements noocs . .irj to obtain or pro tect a good comp'exlon , and his grand toilet combination should be on the toilet table of PIMPLES REMOVED. every one who values these marks of beauty. For " 0 cents wo will mall you a sample of each of the1 * ? article * ( snlllclent for two week' ; ' use ) and an Illustrated book on Der- matologj and how to improve the Skin , Se.i p ami Complexion Jolin II Woodbury UernmtolOKlcnl Institute , No. 1(3 ( State St. . corner of Monroe , Chicago , 111 TRADEMARK POCANTICO of titlcJ people the diy of the Jubilee parade , ihe dpcoiated stand , the luncheon and the band cosllng Mr Aitor over $7r > 00 , Lady Randolph Churchill , the duke and ducheas of Mat thorough and Lord Willla-n Hcrcsford were among the honored guents The Junior class of Uarnard college has Ji ? l published a charming book entitled "Tho Mortarboard. " A fine portrait of the popular and efficient dean , Ml s Emily Juinc's Smith , forms the frontispiece , and on the title1 page Is a happy quotalion from "The Rivals- " "All this Is the natural consequence of leaching a girl to lead " Detwe-eii thei cov ers of th s dainty volume are bright and clever poi-ms , sketches and stories of col lege life all mo t Interesting to the college girl and 1 er friemls , who are legion. Mrs. Ledyard Stevens , who has recently opened a "bureau of coelal refjulremente" In West Forty-si-cond Is fitted street. by birth and association to undertake such a buslne-rs , being connt-cted with families who have long hold a high social position. Mrs. Stuvena undertakes to design and mnnago breakfasts , luncheons , dinners , suppers , weddings , dances , teas , etc. , to glvo information on all oelal customs , ( o suggest and advlsa concernIng - Ing mailers of dross , to arrange Interior dec- ciratlona and to fill mourning orders. She will also have lamps and sllve-r cared for , and will dismantle or opin city 01 country re-sidence-a. A boolblacklng siand for women and children Is connected with the bureau. Miss Florence * Lanteibach , who received last joar Iho degree of bachelor of laws fiom the law school of the Xew York unl- veisity , had be- towed iiK > n her at the recent commcnctmont the degree of master of Jaws in the post gradute course. Mlt s Luutor- baeh is the daughter of the well know a lawjor , Mr Edward Lautotbach , and Intends , It Is rnmoie-d. lo take up the practice of law ccrloimly. MIK. M. L. McK. Smith , who had previously taken her A H. and LL. H. , alee won her M. L , , and there worn nine other joung women graduates eif the school to rc- celvo the dieie-e of LL. II. With all iho Interest that has from tlmo to tlmo been aroused in the old Jumel manaii-n at Washington Heights , there has been littlei or no c-oniinenl rnado upon Ihe fact that ILu wonderful collection of Napoleonic and other Frcmh reliit. accumulated by Mine. Jumel are still In existence and in perfttt preserva tion They are all owned by Mrs Eliza Jumel Caryl , a grandi.k-ec and adopted daugii. tc-r of Mmo. Jumel. Mrs Carj ] , who was born In the Jumel maiulou , now lives at Caryl , a cl arming suburb Just north of Van Cortlandt Her home is filled with Interest ing pictures. , piotes ol old furniture * and bric- a-brac , each of which has Its history. Dr. KliiK'n .W DlHi'utvry for Con- HIIIIIIHlllll , This Is the best medicine In the world for < ! ) forms of Coughs and Colds and for Con sumption. Every bottle is guaranteed. It will euro ant ] not disappoint. It ban no equal for Whooping Cough , Asthma , Hay Fever , I'neuiuoulj , lironchllln , La Grippe Cold In the He-ad and for Consumption ! It Is safe * for all ages , pleasant to take , and above all , a sure cure. , It Is alwaja well to take Dr. King's New Life I'llls in conoec- lion wilh Ur. King's New Dlscovtrj1 , as they regulale and tone the stomach ana bowels. Wei guarantee perfect satisfaction or return money. Free trial bottles at Kuan & Co 's drug store Itt-gular size Mc ) and { 1.09 ,