THE OMAHA DAILY JJEE : , OCTOBER 11 , 1800. 11
'r ' l lll l l felMfes
IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN.
ruixcii
A I Htor from I'nrld HrflrcUtitf
Winter S > li- .
PARIS , Sept. 23. French fancy wools are
this year rather clmplo In design and show ,
IB did iiimmer materials , a study of Ori
ental patterns. They are mnlnly formed
of a plain ground and a superposed , clear-
cut pattern In either damask or boucle
weave. The pattern may have more than
one color , as boucle lines of black with
minted threads of green , red and yellow ,
formlne a plaid over a plain ground , or as
a damask figure In cashmere colors , but
mxed ) and .changeable grounds seem to
bavo disappeared. The character of the
patterns may bo Interred from 0110 of a
broken scroll In blnck on a colored ground ,
as of red or saffron , the design covering
well the ground with an all-over effect.
Wool crcpons are not being made.
But novelty wools have not now the fash-
CLOTH GOWN TRIMMED WITH BRAID.
lonablo vogue ( hey formerly had , and It
may bo useful to say so. They are more
and more neglected for plain weaves and
plain' colors. The higher up ono goes
among the dressmakers In the scale of au
thority the more is remarked for street dress
an exclusive use of serge and cloth. The
reason seems to bo that such dress tends
moro and moro to tailor forms with the
style and beauty In the cut. It Is Intended
to be worn every day throughout a season
and takes the place of the variety of changes
ot other times. It Is a costume as Is a
man's business suit , and such dress needs
to bo of durable and plain material.
Years ago figured wools were made up
PLAID WOOL AND VELVET STREET
DRESS.
with a bodice and trimmed , and extra wrap
pings were put on for the street , and this Is
true now of the afternoon dress of women
of leisure when they go out for ceremonious
visit. A visiting dress may bo of wool as
well as of silk , and It Is Just hero that these
novelties find a fashionable use , though It Is
but truth to say that oven hero plain cloth
Is for the most patt preferred ,
Scotch plaids do not como under this
stricture. They have been produced In
quantities presaging a run and will be
very much worn. They take for the
HUNTING COSTUME.
street a Jacket , of plain material , blue or
greet ) .
A model gown In novelty wool is of saffron
and blavk trimmed with brown velvet ana
lepousso gilt buttons , It has a ( Hied jacket
bodice opening ov r a yellow chiffon front.
The oJlco lias . flat basque behind aud If
short on the- hips tike a flgaro and slightly
pointed toward the front. Revcrs and cuffn
are of velvet and a wide velvet puff Is at the
foot ot the skirt. Uuttons are at the bottom
tom ot the vHlst behind and on the front
and thn cuffs. This Is n visiting gown and
requites an extra cloak or furs.
FOR WALKING WEAR.
With regard to street costume proper It
la too early to say what development Jackets
may take when cold weather sets In. The
fnshlon for the deml-scasou consists In
copying summer forms In warmer material.
What was in pique Is now In set EC or cloth
or velvet and the form U fitted loose , as one
shape Is preferred or the other.
A dress of black serge , Just made , has the
front breadth lapped over with a double row
of ttltrhlng and three large smoked pearl
buttoni on each sctm near the top. Short
loose coat , double-breasted , with rows of
button * ) carrying up the lines of those on
the skirt. Standing turn-over collar , niotiso
ot India foulard In which red nnd yellow
predominate. Red felt hat trimmed with
black velvet , a rhlncstonc buckle and black
tips and red and orange velvet loscttcs un
der the brim ,
A "fashionable street dress that does nol
need to be made by a tailor and need no
coat a great deal , Is made of Scotch plait
wool , which Is to be had In Inexpensive
qualities , with a short loose coat ot dark
green or blua velvet orclvcteen. . Tht
coat should have some fullness In It , say n
bnx plait behind , turned Inside , and n sldo
plait on each sldo the front. This fullness
In some sort compensates for the lack ot a
good tailor cut nnd also for any cheapness
In the material , It wjll bo easier for tht
amateur to finish the neck with a box-
platted ruchoof the velvet than with a collar.
A satin ribbon bow may be placed at the
back of the neck and another with ends In
front. A bishop sleeve will be the easiest
to make , with a turnover cuff. The skirt
may be trimmed with narrow ruffles of
velvet , say two at the foot and one nearly
halt way up.
Preference seems to bo largely for the
loose coat , nnd this form will certainly
serve a % foundation for Immovable fan
tasies In velvet and , fur for rich wlutct
dress. Another thing that will tend to
keep It In favor Is that It Is found very
adaptable to bicycle wear. Jacket sleeves
are such modest glgots as to pass unnoticed.
Uuttons are rather more In view than usual
and a preoccupation Is shown with their
choice. They are In oxydlzed silver am !
gilt with chiselled or repousse pattern , and
also In flno mother-ot pearl and colored
enamels.
Skirts of wool costumes promise to bo a
little shorter than usual. It Is tiresome
and nearly Impossible to hold up the weight
of an English serge of the quality In use ,
and tailors say they should clear the ground.
THE COMING STYLE.
As to the style of autumn dress , since
there la no longer any emphasis given
to the sleeves It Is not easy to say
In just what It consists. Its tendency may
be Infericd from the following details.
The Jacket Is rather short and has a certain
bobbcd-off look , as though It were a pendant
to the collar. It hangs from the neck and
so effaces the bust , and as It Is as wide as
the hips these last are shadowed and prac
tically annihilated. The skirt by a refine
ment In Its cut still further effaces the hips.
Instead of being convex at the top .aud so
following thu natural form , the outline
runs from the be.lt to the foot In oT line
nearly straight aud oven slightly flaring
outwards. Besides thn glgot used by the
tailors there are other sleeves close at the
top and wide at the clbowH , that give to the
shoulders a narrow effect. Finally the hat
Is no longer trimmed on both sides alike ,
and so appears smaller than It did. It
Is less loaded with trimmings and the crown
Is moro in view. Also high crowns are
being tried.
From all this It would seem that fashion
is tending toward a long slender figure.
The resources of art permit women to look
plump at ono time and slim at another ,
and wo seem to bo on the way towards such
a metamorphosis. Winter will tell.
Whllo street gowns have been preparing
for town , the fortunate world that pos
sesses chateaux pr has friends that do ,
an so lingers on In the country , has been
having made for It hunting costumes after
English models , In which It Is pretending
to fish and shoot. These gowns are made
of heavy English material and may be
finished with leather facings. The skirt
stops between the knco and ankle ; It Is
flat on the front and sides , with the ful
ness thrown behind , but must have am
plitude enough for case In walking. A
costume In green cloth has a fitted bodlco
with plain round basque without godets ,
fastened down the front with black brande-
bourgs , with a wide black silk elastic belt.
Illuclt soutache on the sleeves and down
the front scams of the skirt , ending In an
ornament of three loops. White linen col
lar and black necktie. High black gaiters
and blue and green plaid stockings , soft
felt hat with peacock feather. Another
costume In brown homespun Is made with
a short double-breasted box-coat , and the
coat and skirt are faced with brown leather.
Shirt of blue and green plaid , with turnover
collar of the same and black tie. Soft
brown felt hat with black quill. High
laced tan boots and black stockings , bosket
with led or gun.
CHATEAU TOILETTES.
. -After tramping across fields In this severe
and boyish costume , evening finds the same
women In the softer draperies of what Is
technically khov > n as a "tdllette do chateau. "
At tlitrt time of the year the dressmakers
will every elaborate afternoon gown a
chateau toilette. Ccmcs under this head not
only the gown ono puts on for the dinner
and evening If staying at a country house ,
but the drcasup gown as well , that one needs
for dinners and other occasions In town.
Such gowns nro long sleeved and high
necked , and the materials are velvet , cloth
or silk , with accessories of chlftcn , fur , Ince
und Jewelled passementerie. The foundation
for sonio of the prettiest ones Is the bolero.
Others have n low necked blouse like the
eklrt over a high bodlco ot chiffon or lace.
A few are rondo In princess form.
A drees of this sort Is composed of a
shirt ajtd short bolero , with slcoves of Ivory
white cork screw cloth , and a blouse of blue
chiffon , with a narrow Russian belt of geld
ribbon set with Imitation turquolsea. The
front of the bolero is plaited to form an
effect of Jabots , and the top of the filcove
Is loose from the close part , and Is slashed
and plaited and falls In the same way , and
all the bolero Is stitched round an Inch from
the edge , so that It appears hemmed.
Another Is made of blue aud green plaid
silk. The blouse , but not the sleeves , is
covered with white chiffon , and over the
1) ) Ion so U a sleeveless bolero of blue velvet.
The bolero Is lined and corded with green ,
and has appliques on the corners of gilt
passementerie , sewn with mock emeralds.
Narrow blue velvet knotted In front , with a
buckle of gold and emeralds. These Jewelled
passementeries are not necessary to the
dress , but they are considerably worn , and
It may be well to say that they nro not at
oil out of the reach of the tnodtst purse. In
Paris , at least , they are so cheap as to
tonpt to abuse. They are In taste only In
the evening , and should then bo used with
discretion.
A princess gown of whlto cloth has a
yoke and sleeves of brown velvet. It is
bordered with cable round the foot'round
the yoke aud the top of the neck band nnd
two straps of sable run over each shoulder.
A gown of black satin has a low-necked
blouse with sleeves of the satin , slashed
open down the front , over a high-necked
bodlco of black Brussels net. On the
blouse are appllquca of net. On the skirt
IB a plait or rutlle of the net.
A novelty among the materials for black
gowna is a mixture of. nilk and wool-.so
woven as to throw the -silk up onto the
surface loose and wrinkled In cuch put-
terns as crossbars , polKa dots antl stripes
that contrast in relief "Svlth the qead wool
ground , Some of them r4 "striped with
velvet and the effect la particularly good.
This material In rather dear , b'ut It needs no
trimming beyond a little -Velvet , it Is made
up with n blouss , The' guny ) material is
produced in colors , ' "
NEW KRENOH UNDERWEAR.
A tow words may bo useful ou under-
, - . Y.-V- ( / < - * ' * > '
clothing. The change from warm to cold
weather wear Is not so radical with French
women as with Americans and Is principally
confined to the addition ot warm skirts. The
pieces as being worn may bo described as
fellows :
A chemise of flno batiste , without sleeves ,
with a minimum ot material In the width.
It Is mode narrower behind than In front
and the latest design has the back all In
tucks from the neckto the bottom of the
walit. The chemise to wear with ball gowns
has no straps over the shoulders , but Is cut
straight round. Ribbons hold It up while
the corset Is being put on , and arc then
untied.
The drawers of batiste or thicker cotton
end Just below or nbovo the knee. It Is
the fashion to have them very short so that
the knee Is barely covered by the ruffle.
They are also very wide , measuring twenty-
six Inches , which Is gathered Into a band
measuring twenty-four. Tne lower edge Is
rounded up toward the outside , giving the
effect of a slight festoon. It Is then gath
ered into the narrow band nnd n ruffle
added on. The top is not sowed Into n yoke
but Is fitted by short gores.
The corset Is oftenest but not always
black , and from It depend black garter
straps that attach to black stockings. There
la talk of a. change In the form of the cor
sets , which will be low and loose at the top
and close only over the abdomen , permit
ting not a small but a long waist. This
relates to the change to a slender effect
mentioned above. There has been an at
tempt to Introduce colored stockings , but
it has had yet no appreciable success.
The flannel petticoat reaches well below
the knee , to a length between the drawers
and the long skirt , and Is finished by prefer
ence -without a hem , with a six-Inch ruffle
embroidered on the edge , or in default of
embroidery , with an edge of wool lace.
This skirt is preferably white.
A long petticoat of black satin , wadded
and quilted and lined with colored flannel.
A narrow plaiting of black'satin ribbon is
set In the edge. Instead ot satin , cotton
satinet' may bo used. These skirts
are warm , but somewhat heavy.
A lighter weight aud more ornamental
skirt Is of colored taffeta , lined with flannel ,
but not wadded. This skirt may be as
Ornamental as ono likes. Among the de
signs is ono of striped blue and black silk
lined with blue flannel , with a narrow
pinked rufllo of plain blue silk In the edge.
3n the outside Is a fifteen-Inch ruflle of the
stripe , cut stralghtwlso of the cloth , tbo
upper naif all in vertical tucks , and pinked
on the edge. Another of flowered silk Is
lined with rose flannel and has a blouse
of old rose silk covered with a transparency
of ecru llren. A delicate ono of yellow
silk lined with white flannel has overlap
ping ruffles of the same , with waved edges
bound with black velvet ,
Cheaper and more durable skirts are
In moire mohair In all the delicate shades.
ADA CONE.
_
XOVKI/TIKS IN POOTWI3AH.
Stylrn IlroiiKht Out by IllKli
CIllHH CollhUTH ,
Ono of the tests ot a fatlilonable and
wel | dressed woman this winter will be
.ho widtu ot the sole she wears. Not on
ler dancing , carriage , calling or bed-roam
.shde , .but on the , stout , laced calf-skin boot ,
n "which the better half of her days , when
walking , driving , oyclo riding and church
going , will bo spent. Added to this new
eole la a new toe and both of them are
informations from England , where , If com *
fort , ; cotamoa aonse and beauty are ndl
all compatible , the first two--vlNue * are
choxen and beauty is scorned. ' X-
To the American hocmnkerT'h'pfevcr ' , all
three things are possible h'fafl nhc new
rounil-toeJ , square-heeled , nrpia-bottomcd
hoe , in he/ivy or half-welshlu.cilf-skln , U
as charming an example of * footgear as
one could ask. For these , ( tit sole Is not
only wide , very wide acrotV the ball of
one's foot , but has the oxtens6n ! finish and
Is cut exactly on the men's pattern. The
toe Is blunt , but perfectly symmetrical , and
the fihoc laces well up on tUe bait of the
leg , for walking , almost as hl h as a bi
cycle boot. On a truly smart , becoming
pair scarcely any brogulng appears and the
laces are stout black cordn , woven ot silk
and linen. '
This style Is carefully labelled i and bought
as a shopping shoe , to distinguish It from
the amazing list of heavier boots , which
attest to the American woman's growing
participation In out-door sports. First
there Is the very high-laced calt-skln skatIng -
Ing shoe , silt far down on the too nnd re
inforced , Insldo the ankle , for weak Joints.
Then , most recent acquisition , a hob-nailed
Ice boot. This indicates preparation for an
expected season ot curling , hockey , fishing
&nd boating on the Ice , and the tall , heavy
boots arc felt-lined for warmth. Some of
them have an Inner lining of mackintosh
cloth , and then the heels and soles are en *
crusted with nail heads , like the bottoms
of cricket and wading shoes.
For bicycling , however , the leading shoe
makers gloat over the fulfilment of their
SHOES ON THE FENDER.
prophecy that calfskin would ( Ue too hot ,
stiff and heavy , for when itislng. the pedal
an ankle should be supported but left quite
free of movement. Because calfskin \vlll
not do the best cycling Alices are now
made of soft , beautiful Antjrloai ) kid , which
Is bright , pliable , strong nndj thoroughly
waterproof. These , too , jaro ifnade quite
plain , though some have bbuttpnod gaiter
tops , of soft , warm , black , diagonal cloth.
The handsomest of them do jujt , however ,
lace far down on the tpe on < J pot one has
the least scrap of patent Icuthpr applied.
All the splendors and dajutluesses arc
wisely now withheld for svltabjo occasions ,
for carriage wear for lnstancpR Tnen It Is
suitable to adopt just as .froii-frou bottinct
or pantouflcs as the high-classed cobbler can
design. His reputation for tale and nov
elty will rest this winter , 'pu.bis fancifully
stitched Wack American JcJflVand his brown
patent leather. The first mcritlqned novelty
takes the place of brogulh's-'arm is jidt'bt'-
coming to any but the' daintiest of ex
tremities , finished off with 'French heels.
They have beveled soles nd toes tending
to a modified point , with foxing of black
diagonal , often specked iuth red. The
brown patent- leather -is.'jfc&iwever , .both
handsome ana unhu , - < kml i rsiiiit ts uir-aH
well in smart rldtng boots and slender danc
ing slippers with red satin bows. This docs
not In the least , though. Interfere with the
popularity of black patent leather and the
i
. , t ju ( VHO NIXVS Hovaa CJNV nioao CUIHAVTEAU TOILETS
newebt shoes are made of fw entirely , both
the vamps and foxing , Tl/eso glittering
shops are fastened by hlgliiy elazed buttons
and for moat of such botfliles the buttons
are uniquely small and set very close to
gether. < > i
Noticeably pretty ridings bdots are inadu
of yellow leather with browM patent leather
tips and are no longer"WrlnKled Into the
ankle , but nro ut quite after - de
signs , while the dress slipper par excellence
Is a black satin pump. It Is almost absurdly
long at the toe , but not very pointed , has a
low heel , rather flat Instep and Is decorated
with either the tiniest Jet or cut steel
buckles. Sometimes the buckles are re
placed by a pair of minute steel wings , some
times by long , narrow bows of black satin.
Nearly all the dancing slippers have co
lonial beels , covered with white satin or
white enamel when the shoe Is of a color ;
red satin for a black shoe aud black euamel
for a white satin slipper. Numbers of the
now ball room shoes have as well the long ,
square colonial toe , without thb Instep flap or
big buckles. For a pair of all around ,
serviceable shoes , that will be modish aa
well , the shrewd women buy black and white
striped satin slippers with white heels.
Ily a clever scheme of regulating the stripes
any foot can be made to look slim and full-
dfccwcd in these , and a set of buckleu , to
cllugo for pccasloni , given the foot at all
an air of being newly and wcjl shod ,
Mont women keep on bind a set of tur
quoise find brilliant , emerMd and turquoise ,
pearl and amethyst buckles , that are no
more nor lens than t > ln , of Imitation utonex.
to be adjusted at will. Most now of all
pAntotifles ro the white varnished leather
pumpn , In pi nee of white satin or white
suede , and the dear little Turkish , bed-side
flats , with toes that turn up KO far and to
high a wee silver bell Jingles on either point ,
or a small bullion tassel Is affixed.
l'AAS Tlin HAGU.
1'nrt AVhlcli IliiJi Cniitnred Ihc-
Smart Voniijr I'ciijilc.
Have you got a monogram fan ? If not ,
you are far ind uway bt-hlnd the times.
Every girl , and almost eriiry boy , must have
a monogram tan nowada > s , and the fad Is
n pretty one , too. Monogram collecting Is
a dainty whim , and to Indulge In It Is easy.
Last year and Iho year before all the
pretty girls In town contracted the habit
of saving the monograms which adorned
the stationery of their friends , The pretty
gold and scarlet or blue and nhltu or pink
and green letters which como at the top
of note paper , Invitation cards and the llkc >
were stuck In a. scrap book. They m dn
such a pretty showing there that their own
ers began to look for ways and means of
artistically exhibiting them. About this
time , too , the men who mauufacturo such
things took to supplying the stores which
patronized them with little sample sheets
upon which their work was most beautifully
displayed. Now and then a monogram col
lector , wishing to order something In that
line for herself , came to possess ono of thess
tempting bits of paper , and from this the
monogram fad grew.
The sample monograms looked Just as
pretty in the scrap books as those which
had been given or begged from their own
ers , and some otherwise unattainable ones
were procured in this way. Many a girl
who had coveted the monogram of some
swell or select club or organization and
coveted it in vain found herself the happy
possessor of It by means of the sample sheet
Innocently given. From this the fad
spread , until at present It Is that of the
hour. The storekeepers aud salespeople
were very soon fairly besieged for monogram
sheets everybody begging them , declaring
that they wanted to "order a die" and hun
dreds of them had been given away , In. re
sponse to such requests before they realized
what they were losing. That which was
worth begging was worth buying , they
argued , and the sheets were Immediately
placed on sale. Liater prettier and still
more delicate ones were brought out , and
now the monograms of almost any known
; oruauUaUnnclnb ; or , BncletXjjjiayt-bftpurv
chased on these Tittle sheets.
Each sheet contains from three to live
monograms , and In order to obtain the one
desired all the others must bo purchased.
Those placed upon the same sheet are as
widely diversified' as possible , and herein
lies the double edge of the commercial
sword. If the taste of a collector runs
toward a certain line of monograms those
she desires are morally sure to bo on Just
as many sheets as there are monograms.
With sheets at 10 and 20 cents apiece the
total cost Is far from small. Two or three
friends get around this difficulty occasion
ally by cultivating a taste for different types
and sharing the expenses.
The way of using the monograms Is as
follows : Just as many as can possibly be
procured arc obtalmvl , and a Japanese
folding fan , preferably of a. dark color and
largo In size , Is also made ready , Then
the monograms are cut out , as carefully
as , possible , and delicately pasted upon the
fan until every possible Inch of space Is
covered. Sometimes the work Is divided off
Into panels , and the monograms which be
long to 0110 department placed all together ,
although often they are stuck on hit or
mica. Sorretlmoa the autograph Idea Is
combined with the other. When this Is
done a space is left above every monogram
for the signature of the owner or giver
of the monogram , and these signatures
ure arranged In regular rows up and down
the fan. These fans are exceedingly popu
lar with ttoao girls who number quantities
" " their acquaintances
of "nice" young men among
quaintances , and it Is also moro than popu
lar with the college youth. Dy adopting the
autograph Idea ho not only saves himself
all expense , but all trouble as well , since
the giver of a monogram must herself or
himself place It on the fan , and the fan It
self , when finished , forma a very attractive
addition to his wall decorations. Occasion
ally verses , sentiments or quotations are
added to the simple signatures. Once In
a whl'.o a far. Is covered entirely with mono
grams relating to a single eport , such as
cycling , foot ball or tennis , together with
the eutographa of their votaries. There
are countless variations of the monogram
fan Idea. , ? . . ,
Some of the fans are adorned with bor
ders of ribbon , pasted tightly on ; some
have pen and Ink sketches on the margin ,
eorno are made of silk , satin or gauze ,
Souvenir fans are also popular. The fa
vorite among a certain number of young
people , the departing member of a club or
the most Dopular girl In a given set , Is
selected for this honor , and a souvenir fan ,
to which every member of the coterie con
tributes a monogram , is presented to her.
These fans nre Invariably autograph fans
ns well , and the monograms are as nice
ami pretty as can be purchased or procured ,
Every possible style and color may bo pur
chased , so that opportunities are as varied
as can bo desired.
HOSTESSES.
The llir > r 'nec' Pound IlflTfoeii Tlinne
of Ki-imcf mill ISiiKliiiiil.
The guest at an English country house
will bo struck nt once with the spirit of
Individualism that seems to run riot , says
the Springfield Republican. Whllo there
are plenty of things going on that Include
everybody In the house , there are so many
possibilities In tbo way of Individual enter
tainment and such perfect liberty to follow
them. The guest may be perfectly sure
when the dates of the beginning and the
termination of his visit are given him by
his hostess that those dates aru the con
venient ones and there need be no discus
sion on that point. Nobody waits break
fast for a guest , so that lateness to that
meal Is no : ; a rudeness , and breakfast Is on
the table for an extended period of time. A
llttlo attention on which European house
holds in general lay great etress Is the
carrying to a guest's room early In the
morning of a cup of tea and toast , After
breakfast. In England , the guest U left to
himself , generally uptaklng , to write let
ters , read walk , or talk " 'I'll other guests ,
tho. hostess having her jw.-.iuflg well fllled ,
though In many Instances , ut courst ) , a guest
may spend the morning with orao member
of the family. Lunch Is In tome house
holds a fixed meal , but Is wore often a
inovablo feast-like breakfast. After lunch
is the time when tbo hostess devotes herself
to tbo entertainment of her guects , though
1 ( ij nyd Discourteous in a. guest , if there
I * & house full , to hare eomotMng special
to do. At afternoon tea , which Is netted
from 4 to C xHnya , guetts gather and caller *
are apt to rente , to thut U gejicriO Knitter *
Ing. It In 'dinner , hoVrettr , th t Is the
Mcred Institution , * n < l anything but nbxo-
lutfl punctuality la forgivable. It there Is
more than one guosl in the hou < \ the host
nd hostess will not hitvo ( notations out
to dine , but sometime * It there It a IMRC
family and only ono Kuc t Utey may go
out , leaving tho. guest to the test , of the
family , with , perhaps , somebody Invited to
meet him. Alter dinner then1 may bo * n
evening of rhrittlng , or there may bo a
distinct social r-vcnl. Hcforc colng to bed
there Is n light xuppcr , which I * * pt to be
a Jolly little meal , and l.i taken In the din
ing room without the attendance of the
servants.
The visitor to the French counlrj ! ious >
.will bo struck nt once with the greater
strictness of observance nnd the "clannish-
cesa" ol the house rirty. The meals nro nl
! Utd hours and the old customs of chateau
lltf > arc followed to A delightful extent. The
women working at embroidery on the lovely
lawn , with a background of ilrn against the
chateau , with Iho men entertaining them ,
make a picture thai looks cis If It Mint- from
a book. This Is the forenoon , or rather the
late fort noon program , und driving or riding
Is generally done In a Inr c party , geneiAlly
in the early afternoon. If there Is hunting ,
the men may go off klone , leaving the
women , or they may nil go together ; It may
bo In the csrly ninrniiiR. returning for
dejeuner , or It may bo for all day , with
lunch In the wooda or fields. The curious
care surrounding the young girl In Trance
Is nowhere more plfilnly shown than at these
country house parties ; the conversation of
the dinner lablo , If any young girl bo pres
ent , It i-nrefttlly regulated with a view to
disturbing In nowise her youthful outlook.
In England a very young girl may bo kept
away from the dinner table , but If she Is old
enough to attend that meal , no care such as
this la exercised. French women take ex
ceeding care In the matter of dress hern BR
everywhere , and the rather easy ways of
English country llfo would not be allowed.
Attendance at early mass tit , the village ,
church Is almost obligatory , and very quiet
dressing Is dc rlRUour. A curious bit of the
extreme conventionalism Is that cnps of
any sort ore not admissible except during
seine game , and hats are worn as elabor
ately as In the city.
The custom of tipping servants In the
houses of friends Is one common to all Eu
rope , though the system la more fully de
veloped In England than anywhere else.
The custom of a fixed date tor the visit Is
not so closely followed In Franco as In
England , though of course Its convenience
mnkrc It known everywhere to people who
entertain a great deal.
S1II3 lIA.\IJI.I3S l'Hl\Ti\a I'llUSSUS.
YOIIIIB : Girl MntmKCK Mcclmiilciil
Driiiirtiuciit of n NcitHimper.
Women have taken all kinds of odd posi
tions , but there Is only one girl foreman
of a press room In a printing office In the.
United States , as far BE known. She Is
Miss Hena Challender , 20 years old , The
printing house In which she holds the au
tocratic offlce of director of the movements
of big steam presses and other machinery
Is at Manistec , Mich. .
She learned to set typo when she was 16 ,
and soon made her way to the front as a
good printer. She took particular Infercst
In machinery , and before long she could do
anything with a press that any ono could
do. She can take a press apart ami put It
together again as well as any "man that ever
entered a printer's place. She docs the
heavy work , too knack supplying the place
of strength , as It does everywhere.
Besides taking care of the mechanical
part of the newt-paper , she has been the
editor nnd has charge of the typesetting
room. She Is a member of the Woman's
Press club of Michigan , as well ns of the
Typographical union. She Is not at all of
the new woman type , as It Is generally
understood , but really Is an advanced
woman in that she strives to do her part
in the world and to further the progress
of education and general Information , as
well as to prove that her sex is the equal
of the so-called stronger part of humanity.
Fashion Xod-x.
Ermine waistcoats , with full cream lace
cravats , arc worn with sealskin coats this
season.
A very beautiful shade of palest corn
color Is exhibited among evening gloves
. . . . _
Golden-gray beaver , cnincnllla"affn 153by
lamb fur are used with fawn nnd dove-
colored cloth by women of clear complexion
with rich color ,
Sashes are to be very much worn this
season , particularly with house dresses , and
they are made of silk as well as ribbon , and
finished on the edge with a tiny knlfo plaitIng -
Ing of the silk.
The muskmelon puff nnd the short puff
slashed once on the top to show the tight
slecvo underneath are both popular styles ,
while the plain mutton leg , very much
smaller In size , is still worn.
llagple evening toilets of black and
white will be In highest vogue all winter ,
and these gowns , If of elegant materials ,
have the merit when designed , of giving
a most distinguished appearance to the
wearers.
I'laln velvet collars , with plaltlngs of rib
bon set In fan shape at the back , are very
pretty , and collars made cf bias folds of
light velvet or satin , with narrow black
pearl-edged ribbon edging each fold , are an
other fancy.
High crowns are the rule among the new
felt hats , and feathers of all kinds are used
In great profusion. Partridge wings are
worn , and a special novelty Is an owl's head.
with Jewels for ejca , nnd wings on cither
clde , but no body.
Black bodices of chiffon or net embroid
ered In colors , or trimmed with fancy rib
bon , are the latest thing to wear with black
silk skirts. Any color you choose may be
used to brighten the waist , but the main
feature must bo black.
Sleeve culls In Irish silk crochet are fin
ished with crochet buttons , and there are
likewise bolero Jackets , vest fronts , adjust
able basques and cclntures In soutache or
.passementerie with which to finish nnd
adorn plain dress waists.
Stockings woven tri look like cloth gaiters
are ono of the novelties In hosiery , and
they como In black , tan and brown , adorned
with buttons up the side. Their special ad
vantage la that they are mare trim and do
not increase the apparent size of the ankle.
Daintily finished woven corsets made of
fine-spun wool are among the models set
forth for cold weather wear. They are light ,
durable and elastic and formed of natural
undyed wools that exactly match the famil
iar undergarments of the same soft giay
tint.
tint.The
The czar's tour has brought out the curl.
ous Russian national cap as a fashionable
bonnet In Paris , It is made very showy with
gold thread and Imitation Jewels , and col
ored plumes stand up on otio side from a
white rosette. In shape It points down long
at the cars , and has a narrow brim turning
back from the face and up at the back ,
The prettiest fur collars of fashion are
largo enough to almost cover the shoulders ,
and a border of sable tails flnlshta the edges
If you can afford the extravagance. Sable
tails , by iho way , arc In evidence on gowns
and wraps of all sorts , and two or three
arranged with the cream lace Jabot In the
front of the bodice are quite the thing.
A pretty dinner gown recently worn was
made of white satin as to the bodice and
skirt , with a bolero Jacket and celnturo of
Russian green velvet. There were deep
Vandyke sleeve-caps of the velvet , with
close coat-sleeves of the satin beneath ,
trimmed with pearl and gold passementerie ,
the tame beautiful garniture showing on the
satin bodice front and celnlure ,
Fancy stripes In corded silk and satin will
bo much worn in demt-dress this season as
fancy bodices with handsome black skirts ,
as gored skirts with velvet blouses or jacket-
bodices , or as entire gowns with satin or
velvet accessories. These fabrics admit of
so many attractive combinations of color
and trjmmlpg that It Is no wonder that con
tinue fRv'or U shown them ,
The collar bands on iho new gowns arc
coo of the special points of decoration , and
frills of some sort are Invariably set In on
the edge to stand upr around the neck , com
mencing a llttlo distance , apart on either
side of the front. They are made of knife-
plaited silk , ribbon , lace , or .chiffon , and
ono very effective trimming Is lace In Van
dyke points , outlined with a tiny ruche of
colored ribbon and gathered Into tliu neck ,
Short , very full , ostrich' 'tfpa are used In
profusion by Vlrot and other celebrated
Mllliuura , and the large -IcatrlcU plumes
with full drooping tip * * ro * rrnfiod with
studied RTMCC Around the high crawim and
brims of the new large picturehit * . , tt li
( heir price , nnd Also the Tact that rain and
moisture/ are Inimical to ostrich plum * ) ; * ,
that mllllates against even it larger shnro
of popularity than they now , or Indeed ever ,
enjoy ,
Oak-green camel' * hair , plain or with
fthaggy bars mid dots , U combined for the
early winter with various rich furs , ml
look * remarkably well \\lth nearly every
sort. It Is extremely stylish nnd effective
with narrow black fur hands and black
arabesque braldlnK , or with black I'erslnn
lamb , looking richer and brighter by con
trast. It combines defiantly with mink or
sealskin , and Is In equally good taste with
beaver or otter ,
The now ribbons arc a charming mixture
of brocaded and striped velvet , tinsel
threads , plaldi , and changeable effects , and
they are generously used for dresj trim-
mlngR. as well its millinery. Molro and
taffeta ribbons , with velvet stripes on the
edge , arc very pretty , and the black bro
caded velvet patterns In a light changeable
ground are very effective. Then there are
satin ribbons , with tinsel strlptu , and pllln
double-faced ribbon , with tiny irilled cdjfs ,
very desirable for mshea.
J'Vtiilulnr XiitFM.
Miss Clara Barton bus announced that she
Is willing to return to Armenia whenever
the situation may demand her services.
Miss Campbell v.ou the ladles' prlzo In
the recent fancy cycling costume competi
tion the other day at llray , near Dublin ,
during the Inauguration of electric light
cycle racing In Ireland. Miss Campbell was
attired as granny-up-to-date.
"Camilla Scldcn. " the woman who nursed
Heine , the poet , during the lant months of
his final 111 n CM , has Just died. The poet ,
who gave her the name of "Mouche , " ad
dressed to her his last poem , and the let
ters ho wrote to her are most pathetic.
Miss Shepard , daughter of ex-Governor
Shcpard , residing at Batopllas , Wash , , situ
ated In the Sierra Madre mountains , has a
piano which was carried In sections over
100 miles on iho backs of men and btirron ,
being transported to her mountain homo at
a cost of fSOO.
Mrs. F , II , Kearney of Pcndlcton , Ore. ,
has recently re-turned from Pcndlcton , hav
ing won the distinction of being the first
woman to ride across the sand wastes bo-
Mvccn Pcndleton and The Dalles on n bi
cycle. Her husband wan with her and they
rode with flat tires.
Mine. Martha Bcsson of the "Bcllo Vuo
Champion Symphony Contest , " at Manches
ter , England , was presented with a testimonial
menial In acknowledgment of the services
she has rendered to musical art by her
numerous valuable Inventions and improve
ments In musical Instruments.
Mrs. Emma Forsytho , an American lady
who owns 150,000 acres of land In Uio South
Sea Islands. Is a most cncrcetlc business
woman , employing several hundred natives
-is well as many Europeans on her planta
tion. She was left a widow at 18 , with
scarcely enough money to exist , but she has
since amassed a largo fortune , She has
Just contracted to build four vessels for
Island trade and the natives call her the
"White Queen. "
Mine. . Christina Nllsson now lives at
Madrid , where she has a most charming
house , two rooms of which are uniquely
decorated. Some cynic christened them "tho
Records of Din and Dinner , " and this Is the
reason why : The walls of her bedroom nro
papered with leaves of music from the
qpcras In which Mmo. Nllsson has sung ,
and the dining room Is papered with hotel
bills she has collected ( and paid ) during her
Journeys around the world.
Mrs. Marlon McDrldc , the president and
manager of the American Woman's Sound
Money league , says that the league has ac
complished so much good In Colorado that a
prominent silver man of that state has writ
ten to her , sharply calling her to account
for the mischief she has dona with her
"sound money literature. " The league has
branches in many places , a flourishing ono
being In Boston , where Mrs. McBrlde now
has headquarters.
Mrs. John Sargent Wise , who has been
elected treasurer of the New York chapter
of the Daughters of the Revolution , was
a charter member of that society , and also
of the National Daughters. She belongs tea
a flno old southern family and entertains
handsomely , among her guests being dis
tinguished artists , musicians and political
and social lights. She Is an excellent par
liamentarian , an actlvo member of the
Society for Political Study und of the Post
"
Upon the occasion of the queen of Den
mark celebrating her seventy-ninth birth
day a short time ago she received .numerous
beautiful pieces of Jewelry , the most cx-
qulslto being from the Empress Dowager ot
Russia and the Princess of AValcs. The
Crown Princess of Denmark gave her an an
tique cabinet , inlaid with tortoise shell , also
a largo basket of Jaquemlnot roses. The
Princess Vladimir sent her a most expensive
bonnet from Paris , also handsomely framed
photographs of her children. As the royal
larty were promenading In the private gar
dens the Princess of Wales took their pho
tographs.
Hair Medicine
When the hair I > cflii9 to Tall out nud lose It *
lustre and beauty by tnniinir gray or faded , what
more evidence is nccdul to prove that its nealllt
Is uflcctcd ? and that it needs medicine ? No
more , I assure you , for there lit a cause for every
cymptom that the hair c'vci ' of turnliiL''ray ( or
losing its beauty Inntiy form. I'"or as the Imlr Is
a part of the human body , U IB subject to ailment
ns well ns niiy other part , and tlicieforc should
be trcnted intelligently. Hut contrary to this
commoii-fienec Ionic , no greater insult or worfc
nbtikc could lie heaped upon this defenseless
member of our person than the ucc of hnlr dye.
To color the poor eick hair with hair dye , and
thereby drown Its feeble cry fur nourishment , Is
In itself a bin and a crime against nature. Shame
on ignorant humanity Hint will not yield to ( he
laws of nature ; and study the needs of their owu
body ,
Mme. M. Yale's
Hair Tonic
Is a medicine for curlnjr sick hair. It Is the only
remedy 0:1 : record known | a restore the natural
color to grey hair , It iioiiriilici the roots mid
gives circulation to the all ducts , permeating It
with nature's own coloring matter that flows
through the channels of tile hnir when it U In an
healthful slate as faithfully as the warm blood
does through our veins ,
Mine. Yalc'ft Hair Tonic Is the result of a care
ful aualysls of the human hair by Mine. Yale ,
that wonderful woman chemist and scientist ,
who guarantee * Yule't IlairTonic tocontafn pre
cisely the natural constituents of the lialr'n own
matter prepared In a chemical form. It ktops
tlie hair falling lit from twenty-four hours to one
week. Cure * Dandruff ; soften * dry , hurshiialr ;
makes the hair toft , glossy and Huffy ; keeps It
lit curl , and cure * all manner of scalp diseases
ni.d hair allmenU , prodncInK n lro til ol luxuiH
ant hair of its own rich , natural color , uo mattur
what that inuy be black , blonde or brown.
For children mid ndulU-malca or females ,
$1.00 per bottle ; nix for fi.oo. (
ItMK.H. YALE. Ileautj ud Oonplnlon
Ttupla ot Uikut J , 119 bluto blimt , UU