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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 2, 1896)
F ] H " I OKA HA DAILY BEE : STODAV , AUUtTSt ii , iSwf. "It J l'g-J otl he ] us 1 I- Ian an by rr nfl bo "O- ClS tto ol- nil , f" rSJ , atl ktol in-1 : cal > ty | l.y or nd nd on am ig- ign n- nny ny , r- rSt St It' IV ] ru-l a- ] aiio ho ! bo rwl to be ! Kl-1 LU-I iy | cdl he chl hero ro- roall all cle it aol ol- rd bo he ! - m- 4s- c-lA ha u * ct. ct.ho ho jiy 1U- 1Uull a \ \ KTl In ; nt ty : ily ich to VI- lab ha ra ni be : iMZUS : * eK9 ss e [ rvsff > < SN.i'i2 ' § IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN " 3 " 1 I FACIRS ix unnss. lie IlHRnlnR l'n liloii" fern n < l Old In I'nrU. I PAT.IS July 21. Marked preference is ! Jacwn fT no't materials that must be ro - a.itJ ou carefully cat linings , and par- c.larly for their cottons. rtmlard nn ; ur&h ST\C for more cotnrnoa wetir than ttffe'a whiih In kept for time * of greateet : cni. , v Au ofld cotitradlrtlOB tnakes It t ' -fury to mount tbee other/Ilks and JRJ ttjiis over taffeta. , and thtis hew and i.e SL n..t uf present drew ; may be said to > c taTIe'n , Lnv LS , and batistes arc elmort & flog ! a ; n-.aatjesR They nre ejon ldere > < l elt- -t enough for any wear. At the same Ime it may be observed that thdr part Is l-ather that of a transparency through BILK BOUND WITH VELVET. which the colors ot a taffeta nre intended to thimmer and cool. The Uea it , dtliclous If dear. A blue and green changeable taffeta veiled with white with here and there at neclc and > * vlt pure color breaking through IB sug gestive uf nothing if not of a mountain loke In the moraine rnist. It IB marvt-1- ously In accord with the season. But It need not be dear. A plain or flowered Jown at a few cents a yard over a SO-cent talfeta IE not a frightful expense to the most of people , and it was a gown no better than this that was worn the other dav at the LonRchainps race courte by the Baroness Leonlno among others. A white lawn figured with blue , and bearcely trimmed with tome rufilts at the bottom of a bt.lt of fancy ribbon. INEXPENSIVE EFFECTS. Often with the smallest amount of trim ming , which means also a minimum of first outlay , aie produced the effects of most etjle. For example , it is the fashion to finished colored lawns , as blue or pink , with accents of Mack , in a plaitlug of .black . satin ribbon at the lop of the collar band and at the wrists. This black where one is accustomed to see white Is a sur- pilse to the eje , and therefore to piquant that all other trimming IE superfluous , and If added would not count. It Is the fashion also to add to colored gowns a small amount ot plaid silk. Thus a blue lawn has blue and gnen plaid at the neck , belt and wrists ; a gray etarnlne has the same details in white bilk barred with black. This gives with a small outlay a great deal of liveliness and sU'.e- It IE permitted however , to trim thin gowns to almost any extent. The skirt may have trimming to the knee and even to the belt , of ruffles or Valenciennes or ribbon ; it may have guipure * brnds running up and down at Intervals all round , or it may be side plaited with a fold of velvet jiewed down the middle of each plait. Here may be described a certain gown that by the arrangement of its trimming is a quite new ereatiion in point of style. It is this description of plain blue muslin trimmed with notched rucber of black silk. A ruche runs from the belt to the bottom down the middle of the front breadth and rune round the bottom , Over the blouse Is a short bolero of black lace somewhat pointed in front , bordered round with the ruche. The ruche runs up to Uie opening of the collar band In front and BO carries up the line of the skirt , and runs round the top. The long , close shirred sleeve is made longer in appearance bj the black ruche running down the back the whole length from the CHECKED POULAHD. mail top drapery to the wrist , which It circles. ThU reade simple enough , but the effect is prodigious. To complete the toilette add a large bat , all black , of tulle bound v-Jth velvet , and a green parabol ; or else a hat of yellow bound with black vehttt and trimmed with white and black , and a white ; parasol. To the bow of the black belt add a touch of red , or else pin a rfd flower tit one corner of the bolero. HIGH BLOUSE COLLARS. Come now to the blouse. It runs far up Into the hair where it rolls over in a khetlf , or else shoots out In quills behind the rare. Experience has not modified the rage for tlifke tjebrow scrapers nor has best wilted them The catne U to be euld of the long eliioe ted thet-e two are the tEpecltl marks of the i.vie To exaggerate the height of the urk the collar band is made no longer of a ribbon or vehet that contracts , but it 1 made like the blouse. &nd the contrast ing ribbon ortlti is added on in > rufic ti tue top. The mult U tttt .H litre ilor the blouse K-Pwcd to rtop at the lower odpt of the collar band , it now runs ctoar up 10 the t ] > . This Is a refinement nd a sub tlety In Seelgn that may be ixMiflercd. If. bowertr. ytm will b ve the band to m- trast you may add on aliore it a plaiting like tb * blouse , whtch will hire a nlmilar t'Eftl. though not at rronotinepd. To finish the wrist of a thin material shirred over silk f.l h It open m me three Inches -up the Imck and set in a fine plaited rcfllc of the silk I > o not rw this nifflc to the e-dge , but make It vide enough to wt under to the depth of the slush. It will then fall out of the opening and full slightly loner than the mitnlde. and havt the e&rc of an imdprflovre. This is only one finish out of many. Though grrat width Bcrors the shoulders Is not new a part of the style , yet blouse trimmings continue to nbtiw a certain pre occupation with the shoulders. The eye Is carried out over the sleeve with Hther a yoke collar or epaulettes sewed into the arm-holes , or a longer epaulette that runs frmn the ne-tk oter the shoulder seam 10 fall upon the rleeve. This last Is sometimes tucked and may be bordeie-d with lace or a ruffle BO as to be almost cs large as a yoke. As a variation , the popularltj of the wide corselet belt has suggested the application of trimming to the lower half of the blouse , that Is worn with a narrow belt Thus n g cen ctaminc bleu e has flax-colure > d pulpure applied to the lower part In strips running up and down , with the upper ends pointed and a narrow e'dgc of lace running round and Joining the points Into one outline. The close part of the sleeve Is covered with the lacr and the upper part It left plain The effect Is really the same as thnt of n yoke and epaulettes , only the position of the trimming reversed. An Infinity of changes are played on the bolero , which taV.cn al together IE perhaps the most successful Idea of the summer. summer.WHITE WHITE PIQUE. An exception to soft materials is made for white pique , which Is very much worn Made up In tailor fashion with Jacket and skirt It serves for yachting und otbir sports. and for the mornlnr prome-nncle. Also the white pique Jacket worn with dark wool knickerbockers is the favorite bicycle dress. Usually , but not always , the Jacket Is cf the loose box shape , a little longer than the wnlht. A new model In pique has the skirt laid over down one side only of the front. In a hem with large pearl buttons all the waj down. A short bolero of the pique it also double breasted and carries up the lint of the skirt. It falls over a wide b'.acl. satit belt. Alpaca , as I predicted , has not had great success with Parisians who have preferred on the whole to choose for their outing gowns dther pique or j-erge This matenul started out the season with a blast oi trumpets , but must now be hunted for in the daik corne-rB of the khops. The manu facturers counted without their host. It has a quality too poor : it IE inflexible and refures an Intimate relation with the figured and the women ha\e very generally rejected it for gowns. Ne'vcrthrjess precisely because of Its nega tive qualities It has its place for traveling cloaks am particularly for children's drcsseK , vnere It series with distinction. At the French beaches little girls of from C to 12 nre wearing n garment of alpaca mnde with a long blouse and short skirt , tlcfl round with c wide tafleta sash. The bloufP is fathered on the shoulders under c strap , stitched down over the seams. Tbe skirt is box plait e-d on. With this Is worn a hat composed of straw crown and BLUE AND WHITE FOULARD GOWN. chiffon ruffle for brim. Short stockings that leave the leg bare. Little boj-s wear alpaca suits made of a sailor bloute , extra long , with Bailer collar also extravagant ! } loug. and trousers to tlje knee , either loose or falling as though loose. A large hat with brim rolling back from the face. Short stockings. Long sailor trousers are worn ulbo , but these are usually of wool. AT THE DEANVILLS RACES. Very chic women at the races that like- a touch of the pronounced character in their dress get it with plaids and checks and also with a combination of tailor skirt and contrasting Jacket or blouse. Generally such toilets make a sacrifice of chiffons and delicate lac'etr for slmpk'r lines and a maxi mum of fcivle. The bailer hat Is a part of such tolletts. but with an ample crown and wide brim and bearing uo relation to the funny too- little hat that perches on the back hair of women across the channel. It frets down on the head and forms a discreet battery for the eyes , that may at their ease fiakh out coquetry from behind and retire again. The following toile-ts are all in the taste of the moment : A bKlrt of blue and green Scotch plaid surth bhlrred round the hips , with a fold of the blue \el\et placed at eight inches fiom the * bottom. A blouse of the same covered with ecru , batiste , accordion plaited and forming u transparency. The sleeve also cored. . A plaiting of the surah at the neck and wrist * . Hat of matiilla straw with & bund of gold braid laid over blue velvet and u knot with black quills at the tide. Ecru parubol. Tan bbots. A bkirt and loose Jacket of black and white cheeked wool , with a large collar and ri'vers formlne ono piece of white tilquc Tbe Jacket falls open over a black chiffon blouse. Sailor hat with yellow straw brim and black tarpaulin crown. Scarlet till parafcol , White ( .hoes. A skirt of blege colored serge trimmed with two clusters of white braid In gradu aled widths , the upper cluster nearly ball way up , A figard Jacket of white pique the back fitted and the front plaited aud loose , over a front of white barred wltt black or green. Large hat , all black. Green parasol , Tan shoes , A fkirt of black surah entirely sld < plaited , a blouse of yellow chiffon vith flar ing collar and cunt of orange satin ot which white guipure is tppllqued. Belt ol orange satin. Black hat trimmed will black on the outside and orange floweri under the brim. A gown ofecru batiste over yellow , trim' ined with narrow black velvet ribbon. The ribbon bs put on the skirt In parallel rowi forming an inegular fret pattern , end the tame pattern is carried * out on the blouse Flaring collar at the top of the neck band lined with black. Nanow belt of orange Yellow straw hat bound with black , wltli yellow taffeta ribbon and yellow and orangt ilow ers. A gown of brown foulard with large Jup- anete pattern in white Over It a sleeve less KuLtian blouse with epaulettes of plain brown taffeta , ell In tucks and belled will brown. White leghorn hat bound will black vthU uid trimmed with ihadel creel satin ribbon. X'nder the brim Muck volvct liows fastened with straw lracklt-K. A gown ol dark blue fealard with a sleeve less bt > 1ero of pale blue natln eorere d with golpm-e larr nnd transparent tntilln. Black tulle hat bound with black velvet and trimmed with roses. A checked black and nhlte sVlrt trimmed with rows of white braid , and a white pique Jacket all clde plaited , belted behind and loose In front , and open over a ruffled white mutlln blouse. . Green necktie. Sailor h t of ecru manilla straw , with a black band laid over wider band of green \elvet , and a l > ow or black quills at the side. A gown of white foulard marke-d with lack. A leone Jacket of blnck taffeta made with a yoke all in fine turks ending n u ruffle that fallt. ovci the lower part nnd is bound with velvet. Tbe lower part E Ul in klashes from the bottom up to the yoke , the slashes turned tinder to form loops , and all bound on the edges with vehet. Bishop sleeves. A large double ruche at the neck. Sailor hat with a ruche of tutfeta ribbon round the crown and a large black quill standing diiectly behind. THE LATEST CHIC. My latest letter described the prevalence of blue , green or violet. These cool colors have been the rule for monthfc till the cje has become habituated to them. The con ditions are therefore all prepared for the advent of a novelty. The uotelty is red. It IB astonlbhing the effect made by a single touch of red. It draws the attention like a Jewel. It has the appearance of a new- discovery , and this is why it is being ex perimented with by chic women. One may tee a piping of red tilk In the edge o [ a black collar band ; a lining of red in a black bolero worn with a blue gown , even a red chiffon bloufcei. Among the fabhlonable dust cloaks worn to the races and elsewhere home are made oi coarte ecru batiste or sacking , and others are of black surah. They are in the loose box forui , and as the material is thin con siderable fullness must be arranged for in the back. One formed of a slugle great box plait reaching from armhole to armhole and hanging loose. The front is double- breasted and loose , and at the sides it IB closed to the waist by a brown ribbon that runs under the back and front , and is tied at one side with a bow. The collar stands high and rolls over round the top. The bishop sleeves have a turn over flaring cuff , and the collar and the cuffs ore covered with parallel rowb of narrow brown ribbon run ning rounl. It is e-asy to see that this garment must have a great deal of style , and yet It is exceedingly simple , ADA CONE. IKGLAMVS JOAN OF AIIC. A Convert from tlif ItnIIiit CliiHH mill mi Ardeiil NiitloiiiiIlMt Ajr One of the most attractive figures in Ire land at the present time is Maud Gonne , who is e-arrylng on an enthusiastic lectui- ing campaign for the nationalist cause. She is a young and beautiful woman , and lelongs by birth to the ruling class in Ire land. Befoie the dertb of her father. Colonel Gonne , eight years ago , she was the reigning beauty of Dublin castle society. Tbe extreme narrowneEE of view of tbe class to which she belonged has , in her case , produced a revolt which has sent ber far in the other direction. She is one more example of the remarkable converts which the national cause wins from time to time from tbe Anglo-Irish aristocracy. As she deserte-d at a moment when nartv rancor was at its bitterest , all her singular advantages of person and fortune and of social and Intellectual powers could not save her from a rigid boycott by her own class. At first she trusted in tbe union-of-hcarts Idea , and began her political life by de voting all her eloquence and energy to secure the triumph at English elections of the liberal party Having now , however , lost all hope of winning anything from Eng land by a political alliance , she has thrown herself boldl- , und with uudlscouraged en thusiasm , Into moie extreme movements. She is tbe very life and mm ) of tne am nesty campaign , and has shown a singular grasp of details in her conduct of it , while the has but just returned from the west of Ireland , where she has tieeu Initiating a movement to celebiate tbe lending there of the French unde-r General Humbert. Nor has she confined ber crusade to the United Kingdom. She bus addresse-d me-etincs In > France end Be-lglum , and her last lecturing tour in France was most successful. HRSTL.U&S COXVALE CU.NTS. . . Countrrjilii , Gulf , Truiilx mill Croquet llelji 1u Will It- Ann ) L. < IIIK Hour * . Ever > ' mother who has nursed her child through a serious illness is familiar with the trying period of a restless , fretful con valescence. If a trained nurse has been a netce-sslty she must usually be disi > eneed with as boon as possible , or if relatives or friende have come to tbe mother's assist ance they must EO speedily return to their own cares. Anything to amuse a child at this time U a God-bend , indeed. > A little boy recovering from a terrible ac , cident found great amusement in a bunch of ! eng < slender radishes by can-ing them Into a wonderfuly cloic imitation of any animal he fancied With a penknife be out eyes , nose and mouth , using wooden toothpicks , out into proper lengths , for ears , legs and tails. Tbe same laddie aUo made a very Interesting feet of animals , eome of which were possessed of wonderful cbarac- tcr and expression , from unall twtct pota toes whuh are well shaped for this put- ' ! < se an1 the dearest v ee tun les Imagi nable he mantifacturefl from raUlnn with < l"vee for feet 1 'f II the convalescent U JllUe girl tJne may not take kindly to the knife but -with a little help from her elder * pat'er dolls may be made so companionable that tie sick bed will be looked back upon as the most fascinating plavgreanfl of her life The bed spread will lend itself SB golf , ten nis and croquet , while the paprr men and \TBmen take n hand at eaththe "while they are Im-e making , marrying und giving in marriage , and by far the moM Interesting of all. settling down to housekeeping , -with servant * and children galore. The -writer has seen raori r 4l pleasure Imparted by paper dolls thdn tiy the most expensive of their waxen brothers nnd sis ters. One moment and the 10 becomes a concert hall , with mother's bandbox for the stage , wonderful songs are rang by be witching mtldens or soldierly young men of paper : tbe next It Is a church and a paper clergyman is holding forth to e large con gregation of like trail nature with him- nelf , or , best of all. the scene chances to real life and here is a cory home with fur niture of the most comfortable itort. Din ner Is being sene-d. with father and motbe-r at e-lthe-r end of the table and the old-fash ioned large family chatting of the day's do ings. What If some of the daughters are frivolous looking beings ( cut from hlghU ceilored faihlon plates ) and tbe young men look like tailors' dummies ? This is merely FRENCH CHILDREN AT THE BEACH their outward man ; their conversation proves them superior to their clothes. Ah ! how bewitching is this playing at real life ; by the side of dt the real life of t ve elders becomes prosy < Indeed. KACE Work of AfroAnnrlcnnVomeii In IK-lmlf of Tlit'lrTMnre. The educated AfroAmericanwoman can do more toward Christianizing and elevat ing the colored people through fraternal intercourse than has been accomplished or will be nccompllshe-d by all the missionary work. The time is long past for the old time white mission workers. The Afro- American race can help Itself best through the influence of the well balanced individuals of its own race. And that the best element of the feminine part of the colored rate teas come to realize this is evidenced In Lhe second article of the charter which de fines the object of the Federation of Afro- Parln If&O the part AfroAmericanwomen should take , . The need ot n national Afro-American . woman' * r i > er 1 Plans for raising necessary money and securing - | curing necessary support for.the same How can the national federation of Afro- \ merlranwomen be made to serve the best Interest * and needs of our women ? The strength of this new national organ-.i Uatlon even while yet ID Its Infancy give encouragement evf 1U ultluute power among tbe people It represents. The roll now In cludes fifty organization * , the average num ber composing a local organisation being seventy-five members , many of tbe clubs Laving on roll as n-.any as S 0 names. A BOSTON LBADBR. Prominent among the women -who are leaders In this laudable movement for the uplifting of their race are Mrs. Stephen P. llumn , Boston ; Mrs. Brooker T. Wash ington Tusk.'Ree. Ala. , president : Mrs. F. R. Ridley , Brookllnc , Mass. , secretary ; Mrs. Llbble C. Anthony , Jefferson county. Mis souri. , treasurer : end Mrs. William 15 Mathews ( Victoria Baric ) . New York City , chairman of the exe-cutlve committee. In the space allowed It Is only possible to make but a passing allusion to all these workfrs , reserving for the last the most Important figure , the president. Mrs. Brooker T. Washington. First. Mrs. Ruffln. who is the widow of Judge George Ruffln of Boston , deserves much cre-dit for having first agi tated through her paper , the New Kra , tbe need of and possibility of the federation. She Is one of the foremost of tbe e-olore d women Journalists and Is ably assisted in the conduct of her paper by her daughter. Mrs , F. R. Ridley , who , as secretary of tbe federation , has labored earnestly for the success of the coming convention. Speak ing of this e-on\entlon. Mrs. Ridley says "No body of women In the world has graver situations to face or more serious problems to consider , and he-cause of this we con sider it one of the most serious and Im portant movements of the time. No colore-d mother care'fully conslde-rlng the future which America opens to her child can afford to bit still and take things as they eome end with all the mothers combined for good works the colored child may have reason to hope for his rightful inheritance. " Mrs. Ridley taught in the public schools of Boston for over sevrn years before entering Journalism. FROM TI > jE WEST. Mrs. Llbbie C. Anthony , who has In charge the funds of the federation , is a native Missourlan. having been born and educated In that Plate. She was for many years a teacher In the St. Louis public bchools , nnd it was there that she early allied herBelf with temperance work and has been actively engaged In It ever since , being at present state superintend ent of work among e-olored people in the Mlnsourl Women's Christian Temperance union. After her marriage to Prof. E L. Anthony the removed to Jefferson City. Mo. , where he'r work Is Etill carried on. She serve-d in the faculty of Lincoln Insti tute and was commlBBloner from Mltsourl in the woman's congress at Atlanta , When interviewed as to the convention and her part in it. Mrs. Matthew said : "I wished with all my heart 1 had done some thing besides trying to urge Afro-American women to think and work for the upbuild ing eif our race. We need BO much our cul tivated women must step down and help their less fortunate sisters , must estab lish retreats for the reclamation of our way ward and homes for our outcasts. Our generation must make the masses feel the need of these things , then the next genera tion will work actively in the construction work , and so on. 1 am living in an age when our women are Just beginning to think , no U Is hard to look around and Bay this or that have I done. My chief work among the women here has been to encourage the gathering and collecting of race literature and historical data concerning our race ant Its development. I want to encourage them | through this me ns of realizing that we are I all making history dally such as will give | our children pride or shed the latent dlspo ! sitlon to feel that 'We ain't nobody , no I how.1 " Mrs. Matthew is well adapted for j the role bhe essays , for she holds a posltloj ' as one of the prominent literary women o J her race. She has written extensively a number of stories , plays with historical tex books , besides Journalistic work. She ha been president of tbe Woman's Loyal union of New Tori ; and Brooklyn since its organl zation. THE MOVING SPIRIT. Mrs. Booker T. War.hinglon , the leading figure of the convention. Is a southern woman , having first seen the light of day at Macon , Miss. , in 1BC5. She is truly a s.elf-made woman , the story of her life and struggles to attain intellectual life being full of pathetic interest. A mere outline IB Inadequate to do Justice to the heroic effort that have placed her today as the mos prominent woman of her race. One of a large family , of which the mother was brcai winner , her father having died when the was a small child , she would have had no opportunity for education had the no through her own exertions created for her MRS. WILLIAM E. MATHEWS AND MRS. LIBBIE C ANTHONY. American -women as (1) ( ) Tbe concentration of the- dormant energies of tbe women of tbe Afro-Amerlran race into one broad band e > f Flbterbood ; for tbe-purjiose of establish ing needed reforms , arid tbe practical en couragement of all efforts belnc put forth by various agencies , religious , e-ducatlozin.1 , ethical and otherwise , for the upbuilding , cnnobllnc and advancement of tbe race ; (2) ( ) To avalien tbe women of the race to the great need of EJ Hematic effort In home making and tbe divinely imposed duties of motherhood " From tbe tone of the documents Issued In the Intel efct of this convention there ! Is no evidence of any intended tall : of fighting wind mills , no sensational allusions to tbe infliction of bad treatment , but rather a tendency to treat tople-s that tend to the > elevating and dignifying of tbe people of 'Sktrtf ' MRS. BOOKER WASHINGTON. tbe black belt , Tbe tpeclal subjects listed for dltcuttlon are : The need of rescue work among our pfoj.le by our women. Tbe eftibllbhtntiit ot Christian homes and atylums for our fallen and wtyward. The separate car law. Prison re-form. The plantation woman and child. The John Brown memorial association. The jirociktd ioteroatioubl c ; oeiUo& In self a way into the school life until her graduation from the Fiske university. She gave her own labor in payment of board und tuition , gaining spending money through services rendereid teachers and pupils and by teaching at ID , it can be readily seen that all tbe usual pleasures of youth were sacri ficed in tbe cause of education. Her expe rience as a teacher well fitted her to acce'pt tbe offer that came to her on graduating , of a place in tbe faculty of TusUogee Institute She Immediately entered upon ber duties there and at the time of uer marriage to tbe principal of tbe institution the was lady principal. Appreciating her own strug gles , the elands , it is said , as a changeless friend to every girl working her way through school. iiorsEHOLj ) M VKITIIS. T < -nriiifc. Toilet Mlrrorx , IlrjiKH llcdt. mill WrltliiK Tnlilr Kiiriiiture. Something new in teacups are those of pure white china dllpped into two silver- gilt bands , to which a gilt handle Is at tached. The small sauceis are of white china , bordered with gold. Coalport china , of a delicate yellow tone is most effective with the pierced tilver mounts. Plain silver saucers with an embossed border accompany ing them and the teapot Is an Ideal one. Round , but decreasing in size toward tbe foot , somewhat tall and light looking is this teapot. At tbe top and ct tbe foot tbe china , with Us pretty ellt pattern , tbows slightly through a pierced silver eating , while the center part Is left free. The lid is richly embossed. Tbe small tea caddy is equare , and is ot china mounted in silver to match. Apropos to pierced silver , it ic much in rogue. The large fruit baskets are magnificent and give a brilliant effect to tbe dinner table. Vases of pierced silver are charming , especially If filled with red or pink flowers. A charming liqueur stand is decorated in true French style ; tbe glass is plainly cut , but tbe decorations of scrolls , tiny landscapes and flowers are carried out with colors and in pierced Ether. A most dainty little ] > erfume bottle for the pocket is shaped as a tube ; tills it ol crystal , tbe stopper has a square bead of silver or gold , in the center of which is set u single tt-m , diamond , emerald cr toprwhile colling around the tube U a KTpniU in silver or gold. In the drtBEiuE room the new toilet tables hare put * glftxf vines mcAsMr on hlngcn ' .to any anple 'WhPn Ihe Ui'it ' * * co.i > pletcd the lotiR gUssc-t are feM < d * & 'Let they titkc up no extra rpare In 'hp room Two single l > c. * . for each tx room a-e more atti than ever , they arc fitted up in what 1 t-allctl the Italian ttyif The brans back , which 1 drains , 1 * In one plcrp , an4 ha the regulation movable arm * , on vhteh the curtains are hnng. The high fowl-piece of rare bedstead It separate rave for a nfll higher arch made et ornamental brass. which eonnwt * the two druporlr * . ar * rather more elaborate. The full baek I * * tlll . but over It are arranged deep festwmn nd long drooping ends , lutrderod with nar- ow fringe. Festw nR are of varlows Jempth * . The material U rut in enc long rrieice and Is brown over one ot tbe bra&s rods of tbe Writing table appointments In cnppfr ironre , colored olive green or choeolstr , re among the new and pretty thlncs. A vritlng desk fitted to a folding stand , forma , i ben open , a convenient table with , blotting tad. Ink Instrument * , stationery case , IIOH-K or answered and unanswered letters , with ; orks and key * When the supports are oldcd up the whole can be used SB a desk in a table and it Is all prettily finished In green morocco. Very charming writing 'tiplls come In a material ropembllne dark ortolsc shell , with chaood sliver ruouuts. French gow-ns are trimmed half way up : he skirts. Some of the flower parasol * when clocd tiol : like May polen in blossom. Some of the latent kirts are trimmed In andykee of three different widths. Maltese lace is to return , both for dress and parasols. A eomblnallon of this lore n a jellow tone \vlth chlfTon IKcry prett5 Many of tbe draplnps of lace suggest the ichu arrangement , which Is one of tbe tnoBt womanly e-flects produced In dress Shepherd plalcl Is very much In vogue and with It comes the quaint old-fashlone'd trim ming of tbe skirts with ions and rows of he pencil velvet. As a finish to the pretty brass bedsteads which are almost ejicluslve-ly used in coun- ry houses , the old-fashioned canopy of flowered chintz huK been revived. richus with very long ends that tic and 'all low on the skirt are made of airy tex- .iler matching the gown and edge-d with "rills of Valenclenne-s lace Silk handkerchiefs In subdue'd blue , green ind red tints are used as vests In the new joulf Seize coats , the pointed ends of which , ace trimmed , tall below the wlJe belt of lack satin. Buttcrflif-K. with their wings folded or oM'd , flashing now the crimson of the car- juncle , now the rich purple of the ame thyst , or the brightness of the emerald , are among fa\orlte models in brooches. This M-uson it seems the thing to ha\e the skills end blouses harmonize more * , and the ene serviceable black sill : must be kept for the wash shirts or darker bodices. Light colored dressy bodices must have a Hghteir skirt than the black ones. Very large Vandyke and sailor collars of white silk batiste are added to beautiful douse toilets of Trench organdie , flowered China silk , flowered India silk muslin , black and white silks of various devices , and simi lar dainty gowns. The noft cool vest of chlllon or moURRelalne dc bole and the very high celnture of satin are now BO universally worn an to ha-e leist all Individuality. In Paris they bine raged for months past , nnd are still -worn with day and evening gowns alike , and with or with out the short bolero Jacket. All norts of pretty and unlooked-for ma terials are pressed Into the service , and theie is e\en a thin leather , to which a mother- of-pearl surface has been given , which cuts up into small shapes , and in combination with much bright silk and metallic thread , ghts effects that are- perfectly wonderful. Among the many cool-looking and beauti ful shades of gre'en that are in vague this season , the pale-silver tints and those in golden-green are most sought after. These delicate shades are found amtong plain and fancy satins , chene taffetas , iery many of the diaphanous summer fabrics .and in the list of dress and millinery garnitures. One black gow n is quite necessary for cummer wear , and canvas wears well and docs not crush. TLe fathlon of black gowns beiing cut up to show an undeiskirt undeT- neath is attractive to many people. Ac cordion plcatings of silk or llsse look graceful - ful peeping from under the panels , and tiny ruchlngs of Itrc can be. ued toedge them instead of nasscmenterle. The pretty , girlish sashes ore ngaln In full favor with all bodices that terminate at the waist. One pretty way of finishing them IB to have two short loops standing straight up the back and three or four longer ones lying down on the skirts , these held In place by the long sash rlbban that passes around the waist and ties In a loose knot betwe-en the loops , the ends falling to the bottom of the gown. The Florentine and tbe Mout-quetalr are leading favorites among new sleeves The latter is wrinkled up the entire arm. with triple frills of the dress material falling over the sleeves on tbe shoulders. The Florentine model Is like the feathered sleeve of an Indian chief , with a tiny gathered frill of the rippled material following the outside seam of the close fcleeve from the wrist to far above the elbow. This model has a Bhort full puff at the top. The duchess of Devonshire , though a grandmother of long standing , is particularly fond of white gowns of many different kinds , and an American lady who recently saw her at a fashionable gathering in London writes that she looked extremely well In a gown of cre-am-whlte silk canvas over orchid-colored taffeta hilk. She carried a parasol of white crepe de Chine lined with tbe same hilk , and the small white bonnet on ber head was fastened with narrow velvet ribbon and trimmed with pansies and one beautiful orchid. There is nothing prettier for evening wear than a little cape. Somebody has eaid that there Is nothing ( .o graceful on a woman as a little cape if It is cut just tbe right length The right length this summer means to be to the waist line. They are made of plaited silk , with a profusion of heavily plaited lace and bows of ribbons innumerable. The most fetching are of bright colored silks , covered with black lace , allowing tbe warm hues to glint through. Anything thnt. can be piled on in the way of ribbons and rhlne- t-tone and stetl buckles , or even burnished gold , adds to their beauty. IVllllllllIC "VotCK. Queen Victoria possesses the pinkest of all pearl necklaces , and it is reported to hatt been part of the dowry of Queen Catherine of Arucon. Mrs. Van Curt , the well-known Eopranist and musical composer , w Ife of Prof. W. E. Van Curt , Is now enjoying life at her coun try villa in blue-grast Kentucky. Toung Queen Wllbelmlna of Holland is developing ttrong artistic talent. Her great delight Is to sit In a window in tbe palace and oketch the sentries on guard. He-Jen Keller will enter Radcllffe college in tbe autumn. She is a remarkable deaf and blind girl whose case has arout > ed great iiXereBt throughout the country. Ex-Queen Lllluokalanl has been baptized and confirmed by Bishop Willis , the Anglican bishop. She has not hitherto he-en a mem ber uf any church , although a regular at- tfuuaut. MUs Perkins , who is traveling in Europe under tbe care of Mrs. Maude HOWE * Elliott of Boston. U a granddaughter of the late Ste'phen Weld of Boston , and an beiiess to some 4.000,000. Mrs , Mary Lie an Checkering of Norwood , Mass. , near Boston , has just celebrated her 1'lnh birthday. She was marrle-d fccventy- fivt > years ago , and has been a member of the Congregational church for eighty years. Mis ? Daisy Barbee of Atcblson. Kan. , was graduated with the highest honors from tbe law department of Washington unlverslt ) at St. Louis , having captured the the-ils prize over thirty-eight e-ompetltors. She wan tbe only young woman in tbe clunk. Mre. Katherlne G. Reed , who has just dU'd at SUtervllle , W. Va. , was u widow in straitened circumstances five years ago , her only posieEfclans being a farm looked upon as worthless. But oil was found on it. and when she died she was worth upward of f 1.000,000. Mme. Josephine Jarocka , Count Pulaskl's grand niece , who came to this country In ItiTS to probecule. . a claim agalnM the United States government for money advanced to ih * colonial tum during Ihe rtto- TU top f T fbi i r w 1 > T.Ri r'fK 1tttn In poicr'j- tipcn ihari-y for bc-S ac > 9 fonl The ttsrlna has rr-w returned 'o Pt burg after hating ri < ent iteverml weeks near Moscow t the country teat of the Gruud Duke Perglu * While tbetr nbe n4 the eiar ftpMit much of tbe time At flcbtng. tennis bed private tbeatrteiiH The grand aneW of Dartafttadt wit one ft the iHtaM rwrtr of r. I * Btatitcn hi the TltJ ! i M. Hew s a little boy st ntey A Jtln ) ; from . * ! * - * - ' * own THH f1 * . An' when they m d him w * vrt myt "lie's out thw * In th * rwws. " The floweif they wrno * to X vt > Mm FO , Our heart * could nevn chlo > htm , Sweet-playliT where tbe lilies btaw An' where the root could liMte him. But once when Tw-lllirlit'R dreamy * h det Fell soft on B lrtB an floww * . An' dm ktictf pluomed nbove the slufles , An' thene nd hrnrts o' ourx ; We eouldr't fltid him nt hi * piny. Yet Will w hi ti daylight elosi-5. We lienr his tnothi r weiplf s.'iy. "Hi's out t ! < r < in tin jos' ' Yale's Skin Food rtcmoves wrinkles nnd nil traces of age. It re-eds through the pores- and build" up the fatty membranes- and wasted tissues , nourishes the nhrlveled and shrunken hUln , tones nnd ImlRorau-K the nerves : mtl mus cles , enriches tiie impoverished blood ves sels nnd supplies youth and elusili'lty to the action of the skin It's perfect Bewareof substitutes mid counterfeits. Yule's Oiltrlnal Skin Food , price Jl.&O and K 00. At nil druc store-s Guide to Beauty mulle-d free. Wille for one. one.MME > t. TAUT : , lloulth ana Complexion Pioi-lnllM. 1nle Triniilt ol lleuuty. 14C State ttrctt. Oilc-Hti' . PARROTS i I eifli'r llicm tills vcar - clit-uper thiin ever | Pim Island Parrots i The most benutlful , easiest mid q > Ir Vest to learn to talk ninouR all p-imi's only $6 OO t-nch This pi-Ice In cludes u blilpplni ; ciicu , - - ! ! > - , pariott seed I wltti vulu ; bic directions und u writ ten guar antee Luri.li. solid I'urrot Oast" , . ti.0. 1 I'm rots shipped ltu peifect safety ull over | | U. S. A. Geisler's Bird Store , Omaha , M Eitablisliod 1SSB. ! NEW COLLAR INDUSTRIES Y purchasing goods made tit the folio-wine Nebras ka f .ctoriei. . If you can not finJ wli.it you want , communicate with the mumifitcturers as to uh u t dealers handle their proofs. ' = _ BAGS. BURLAP AND TWINE. HUM IS OMAHA HAG CO. Manufacturers of all hinds of cotton und bur lap baps , ration flour Kiicl.i und twice a fciieo- lalty. -rcG-ClK E. lltli St. BREWER11SS. OMAHA IIII1SWI.VG AfefeOCJATIO.V. Cur load tlilpmcnlB made In our own rcfr > . iratcir curb. lilur Kllibun , Illlte Export , Vienna Kxpt'rt uncl Family Eljiurt delherefl to all I > ui 0 ! the Clt ) . FLOUR. S. F. GJL.MA.V. Manufacturer of Gold Medal Flour , C E. Illack , Manager. Olna'at. IRON WORKS. DAVIS A : COWGILL IIIO.VVOHK * . Iron mid IlrottN Pounder * . Uunuf&cturetB und Joltliore of Machinery * ' ) CD- * rul rt'iiuirlnc 2 rpeclaitv. KOI. IM and liJ5 JlcKvun siren. Cmuhu , Keo. IHO.VOUKS. . Manufacturlrc and rcj'Ulrlnr of alt klnta ot n.ULliintTy. i-nirlni" , pumji . elevators , prntlne prexi.ee , ) mnrer , kliaJtlnE uno coupllncB. 14(1 ( itid H'Jl ' Howard Et Omaliu , I'AXTO.V AVIIZKL ! > G IIIO.V AVOUICS. Manufacturer * of Archltrt-utral Iron Wurk. General Foundry. Muchln * und HlnrkrmlU vnik. Unrlnrera und Cemtrnruin fur Fire J'rouf Bulld- Intt Olflre und works : U. I' . It > . nd Bo. 17th Mrwt Omaha. NIGHT WATCH. FIRE SERVICE. AMKIIICA.V uiyrnicr TKL.KUUA.VH. The only perfect protectlnn to property Exam ine U. Ie t tlil'ie ' on rurtli , Iteducea Insurant * ruteB. 1204 Uuuclat uri-i-U SHIRT FACTORIES. J. II. KX'A.VS MIIIHAfeKA till UTS COMIM.M" . Exclusive cuMorn ihlrt taUurt. li TENTS ANH AWKINGS. WOW IIII.OS. ACO. . Manufacturer * of ten' ' * , t IIIIK--F. tarj'Ullarn. find ! , banner * mid nuttum. TOUTS FOH KENT , 702-TO ; Boutu flixtfefitu urt-H. Omubt. Neli. - Electrotyplng anil Stereotyping rok TUC TIU.XJC. 11 it * * mud * tr u * * r uut d iof Uitiir > ui riur f.i-SJ , uud i.rjiitW I uullO' . iirnt-cliuu work. 1'n.miit nutf rtui unui clii.ru- * . . WrltoforMiUlu * ' * * . uue " ' " "SABS W iiS1Tn f WKi > ur. 111 < Howard ttu. On AUJ. EDUCATIONAL. WEHTWORTH iMrcf t M Ullury S1. . . . < > 1 In MILITARY ii-cuntt Li < f. lijutjuuuiit ComjileUs. bujijilied L j Uie. GUI era tn B ut with Ann * audArarOtticer. Addr i. UlltrCtD IILUM.M. A. . tUfT. . ttlllBTCK. UB