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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (July 19, 1896)
If THE OMAHA DAILY 1H3E : SUNDAY , JULY 10 , 1890. Ki m ffeiayf i/f / WMW - - * = - - - - - - - - - - - - - - N ( s ® x g > s (5s ( \ ; sv ® \J > is > t& S-.4S > 'S > 5--j Idr - THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. lei roi th ern cod nc. 'nt om ra rv v old ny. ct , ud- Ice the to la ir , " i U. Bur- icn net on tho' ferro > ro , itt : nits Illi . ICO > WS of Iho of Hto inho out one 'cry up- fcl- ; 'of not vna Iwn icr. lect urn ? Ho the nnil hat dca kly ami eve tto | per ! mra ilin. Mint , .re-1 loth heJ slt4 illcrtl how get the very told mid. out oulil lllCll II 111 the year wng inch ! y iet Ivcn MllllS cred agosi In iludo lldl- K to tlun ; the a no } i The * lOUCdl ven-J eat- } ( mill way anil nulil hurl ever , nelly. alutj 5lves art * itlvol The ' ly nilcjl t i 5 i i St MMi : Mdt ltM.\ ( ! . lerliiln and TrltiiiiiliiK * Hull Mny He Aitriiirliilel | | > ' t neil. EW YORK. July 1C. Mourning etiquette . Jngcs lltllo Jrom season lo Reason , but 'SRigh few. they are all Important to those wear the apparel of grief. The lost marks one Important reform In the nbuses of black wearing which , however , much less common now than even five ago. II Is still n fashionable and dt"ent custom to put on black ' 'the dead nnd It Is one that will doubt 's continue for many years lo come. Hut c nmonttlcR of life no longer cxnct U , nnd ere mo those who consider the custom ns well ns unhealthy. They claim , Indeed , that In time It will bo done nwny Ith entirely. Meanwhile such reforms ns cnn bo forced ipon the grief-stricken nro going on. Fash- on nnd good SCIMU nre doing nil they ran ownrd making the panoply of woe agtce- iblo to Iho eye and not too burdensome to he flesh. Thu chief change mentioned has been u FOULARD SILK. Vitibilciilng of the deep veils worn In the | flrsl stages of application. These now reach no lower thnn the \\alM Illnc and very often Ixit little below Hit Ishouldcrs. Widows' bonnet draperies may be a little ( deeper than wnlst length nnd even tome to | .ho knees and below If liked. The shorter v ll , however. Is thu one most lipproved and Instead of the old heavy crepes lind nun's veilings the lightest possible mn Icrlals nro used. A thicket ! quality of black silk miHlIn Kvllh a dull finish Is one texture used by pvfdows , Other veils arc of soft silk canvas , of jincoiiimon fineness and delicacy , and very little heavier In weight than the mousse- | lnc.Doth Doth sorts will be finished around In the SIUC CANVAS. name way , with n hcnistltchcd border ni Inch and a halt deep or cHo with a hen the tame depth of KiiKllsh cropo. Yell S of nun's vcllliiK , thotiKh not so fasblonubl as those of the other material , are lesa ox ! ] > cnslvo and may still be had. f TINY IIONNKTS. ' All bonnets which accompany loni ; veil are small and stuiKly fitting. IC.xccpt 1 facliiK of crcpp or the veil material abou fit ) the ] brim no trimming Is used , the veil cov ; c : lnK the rest of the bonnet completely. Kor elderly wldowa the adjustment of th Veil Is very simple and plain. Ono square . NUN'S VKIUNO. end ls taken , divided equally In the middle and drawn over the bonnet crown In close , Hat pli'au , these ttivn are pinned at the Hides with stick plus or plain slide brooches of dull jet. YouiiKt-r women may have the veil draped Lvwlth a more coiiuuttlth effect on u trlmmt'd lionneU but It U only In the first weeks of erlef that it U now over allowed to hail ) ; ou the face After a year the long veil may be dis carded and a short face ouo of Brussels I I ' 11 ' Ml' f f net. edged with n fold ot crcpo , % vorn In stead. As to the widow's rap Itself , tlmt narrow edie ; of white in the front of tin * bonnet , It s still not considered tin- best form for oung W'.inen. It Is thought In their cnsc o Invltu more nttentlon than li conslstem Ith the ethics of utihapplneps. no they are o longer worn by the smartest women. In Idcrly bonnets , howr\er. the oat ) of widow- oed Is still seen , and deep turnover cuffs ml collars of thin while lawn with a lipm- tltchcd cdRC ls n frequent accompaniment. In 1'arls these neat accessories are not orn by widows alone but are the p'-lvllcgo f young and old nllke. And with the In- onslstency of fashion they do exactly wluil ho cap has been abandoned for tell all thu vorld that the chains of the prctly wearer re broken , and that she Is ( presumably ) licp more In the market. Kor first mournliiK Ilonrletta cloth. ca h- nure. nun's yelling nnd dull silks are the oxtures nlwa'yn advlced and IOIIR used for owns. Foulard ullks and lustreless serges ollow In the next stage , and for dressy iiomputs miidiiK the now materials Ihcrr ri- dull silk grenadines , otamlnes ami can- aEe Hint may be worn even , for the leavlest mourning. These arc appropriately rimmed with folds of the same , or clsp ( hers of ICngllsh crepe , nnd are very hand- omo over silk linings. COIIUKOT TRIMMINGS. No lustrous texture or etit Jet hat ornament B considered Rood taste for the first stuffs ml ribbons and Jet uiimmcntH must have ; \ dull ( lend finish of extreme plainness Is nought the best form. Kor light mourning iluck quills , wings and simple silk llowcis nay trim the hats , nnd for polite or "second" line-It a combination of black and white 'or both gown and hat Is an allowed clo- ; anco. Lavender and all the attendant shades of violet , however , lire no longer mourning tints. Purple In all Its tones lias become a fashionable color , and so has us I the sad slgnlllcance It once had. \ few handsomu models here shown will give further Ideas as to modish mourning A ear. All the toilets for first black are trimmed with Ungllsh crepe , which handsome and mclannholy material \ In high favor once more as a garniture. In ninny cases It may oven form quite half ot the costumes as may be seen with one gown Illustrated. Another first mourning toilet Is of lUnrlotta cloth with the skirt heavily trimmed from waist to hem with gore shaped bands of the crepe. This Is also lavishly displayed on the bodice , thu chief feature of which Is a stylish cape effect at the top of the snug sleovi'S. A charming "second" black dress is re alized In silk canvas nnd black nnd white striped taffetn. This forms the sleeves and bodice proper , over which is hung a low- necked , sleeveless blouse of the canvas. The skirt , plain and mndo loose fiom the foundation , is slashed at the hips to show the striped silk lining. So combined these materials are especially handsome , but others could bo used with equally good effect. Kor example , n bodice of shot or checked silk could have the rest of the gown of 'otninlnc grenadine , or plain black silk. Again the gown could be of the figured , shot or striped stuff , and the under bodice of plain black or white. The sim plicity of the model recommends It to both fat mid lean. AN AL.L-HL.ACK COSTUME. In the costume with the tucked skirt nnd balloon sleeves may be recognized something very dressy Indeed , but quite suitable for n young woman In the middle stages of black. Tbla Is of plain Indian foulard , with the bodice arranged with n Jacket effect In whlto embroidered batiste over a crisp lin ing. Inside the Jacket Is a vest of tbe plain batiste with quilling of tlu > black Foulard , which In crimped frilly also flnishuj the wrists of the sleeves. The chapenu for this pretty mid elegant continue seems on the other bund very I m pi P. It Is of dull , rough chip , with a very low. round crown. Over this ; ho ilnimlng. n single big bow of taffeta ribbon edged with n narrow niching of black silk muslin. ID put on to create an even flatter effect. Kor the very hot weather gowns of pure while with black trimmings are admissible for oven the deepest mourning. Charming gowns for homo and hotel are made of mull and plain white batiste , with the skirts only deeply hemmed or trimmed it most with throe wide tucks. Not under any circumstances are frills of any sort on these thin gowns considered conslnent wltb. mourning. This plainness , and a black rib bon stock and belt , arc all that divide tan white fiock of grief from the white ono of Joy. NINA FITCH. Til 13 HASTHHX S'I'A K. \V irl Ai'i'iinipllslii'il Iiy I'rotMililNons' SlHliTH. MotlHTH nnil DniiKlitri'N. To perform with zeal any work which their hands tlnd to do , by the wayside , In the workshop or thn homo Is thu aim of the 100,000 and more earnest women who form the organization known as the Eastern Star. This order has lately had Its annual con vention , and the work which It mapped out for thu coming year is to raise funds for building an Eastern Star homo , whore those of its members who need shelter cither from uge , Illness or misfortune , can find It. When a woman becomes a member of the Order of the ICustcrn Star she has t-tppnet ov-r the mystic threshold of a Jlason's 1 oil go In a certain sense , and has become almost a Mason. Under Masonic law women cannot par ticipate In any of the rites nnd cercmouU-R of Masons. The female relatives , therefore of the brethren had n reasonable prejudice against the craft because or their isolntloi from it , und ( buy believed Unit the Inlluonce wielded ugalnst Masonry would be turnei In Its favor by thu foundation of an orde of similar purposes , but confining Its mem bers to a Masonic relationship ; that Is , out cannot become a member of thu order un lets she Is H mother , daughter , sister o wlfo of a Mason. "Although the Order of the Eastern Star Is n comparatively youthful organization. ' said one of the members , "a similar ordc has existed In Franco for nearly 200 years It wan established under the same luisplci.- and with nbjecis nearly Identical to those of our order. " Among the objects for which the order \va founded , not the least Important aru to com fort thu sorrowing , relieve the distressed and nurse the sick. The badge Is n llvi < pointed star , and there are live degrees that of Adah , thu daughters of Itutli , the widows of Esther , the wives of Martha , thi sisters , and fifth , that of Klecta , the mothers. The Biblical characters rcpresen moral virtues , lluth Illustrating devotion to religious principle with the color yellow rep resented by Jessamine ; Esther , Illustrating fidelity to kindred and friends , with th color whlto , represented by the Illy ; Mnrtbu Illustrating faith In the hour of trial , wltl the color of green , represented by the pin leaf ; Klecta , Illustrating patience nude wrongs , with the color red. represented b ) the rose. At the Installation of ofiicers , the onlj time when the uninitiated are nllowci within the cacred precincts of a Mnsonl lodge , the ceremonies are most Interesting flvo members , "sisters , " represent the five points of the star ; the matrons and patron appi-nr In the regulla ; each olllccr , wearing her own special "Jewel" nnd scarf , takes u ] her station , one In Iho east , ono In the west me In the south , one In the north , ono a the door inside and ono at the door outside The ceremonies are closed by the gram marshal , who says : "I proclaim that th olllrcrs of the Eastern Star ore regularl > Installed for the ensuing year ; I proclaim I from the south , I proclaim It from thu west I pioclalm It from the cast. " Attractive names aru given to the dlf furent chapters. Kor Instance , the Ne\ York and llrooklyn chapters are designate ! as Klorul , Stella , Orient , Arcturus. Crescent Evangellne , Concord lu , Laurel , Alma Harmoula , Alpha , Delta , and Esther ; Hcacoi Light is thu name ot the Statcn Islam chapter , and lluth , Golden Rule , Itadlant IlUiiig Blur and Uutulehem are other prett titles by which various chapters are des iguatcil , lu all tbere are about 100 chapters , J ! j I I with nearly 121,000 members. That quietly and unostentatiously they accomplish a vast amount of good ono cannot doubt , ono of Ihrlr wnlchwords being , "Let woman ever provo herself woman's Iruesl friend. " It ! > HTTIM > .II3\V 131.S. Oninf Hit.lliKiilnr , To.iN nnil KVI < > IINCN of ( lie Summer SOIIHOII. They are trooping Into town by the tens ml the dozens these long summer days , voinin In hot weather toggery , who have omo to consult with their Jeweler. The ruth of It Is. one-half of the gems owned jy fashionable women go through a coin- iletc metamorphosis at this tlmo ot the car. Kings , bnnglcs , pins nnd necklaces ire pulled to pieces .while artists , employed or the purpose , submit novel Ideas for the ( setting nnd rearrangement of precious tones. Overhauling her Jewel cases has omo to be one of the regular delights nnd xpenscs of the summer scnson , for n well licssed woman seldom makes any show of uch finery In the country , and chooseo the line as expedient for elaborate ; alterations. Many of the changes are radical nnd most but the Interest supplied bythe , endless grace of curves and subtle cojUrnst of tlnls. That Is why old nnd Orl maf Jewelry Is often so much more bcaut.jf.uj , . nnd In- Icrcsllng than modern. Wo h y ? not the Oriental Instinct for curves , , convolutions nnd Incrustations which makd , < tlnlr ) orna ments beautiful even when made iof most Inferior glass nnd metals. Theo old ex- qulslto Jewels belong to the. tlays when Jewelry counted among the flue -nrts and Jewelers were trained nrllsts * who them selves hnnimcred gold. Dotllaelll , Krnncla. Andrea del Sarto nil began llfn. n > working goldsmiths , nnil wo therefore flml simply endless and beautiful Ideas In the Jewels of thai day. During the eighteenth century the stonecutter and stonesctlcr practically supplanted the nrtlsl , and only how are we beginning to ngnln realize how mnch more significant nnd lovely arc Jewels which ex press something of the artist's seeking nftcr divine beauty , than mere "glmcrnck- crles. " USING 11UCKL.KS. The buckles hero Illustrated Indeed show something of wlml may bo achieved by grace of ctirvp nnd bcnuly ot convolution , nnd another winter we shall see every woman who boasts n buckle or clasp de scended from her grandfathers bringing It Into requisition to "loop the satin sleeve on Ivory arm. " to hold firm the dainty corsage or to Illumine the center ot n stunning bow. A few women who make a specialty of extravagant novelties will wear next winter necklaces made of drilled diamonds and opals or pearls. I bellovo there are only two In America as yet , ono the drilled diamonds mends strung on a cord with alternate pearls , and the other diamonds alternating with opals also drilled nnd cut to nboul the shape and size of the old-fnshloned gold beads. Hut really the most fashionable ornament ENGLISH SERGE SUIT AND LIGHT MOU IIN'ING WAIST. of them will add Infinite grace and bril liance to next winter's toilets. Now designs for head ornaments all in- cllno to exaggerated height and lightness of scheme , calculated to add dignity to women of nil ages or Mzes. Kor Instance what could bo more lovely or more uni versally becoming than an exquisite diamond mend tiara , Just Introduced by nn American firm , with Its graceful Jeweled scroll sur mounted by tall delicate sprays of diamonds of varying size symetrlcally arranged on almost Invisible platinum wires , alternating with diamond Incrnsted fronds ? The new aigrettes , too , are a marvel of airy , dazzling grace. Even when composed of diamonds of rare size and weight , they are so artistically constructed as to give the delicate effect-of the slender tuft of a bird. Kor a moment one wonders how anything HO heavy can be made to appear BO light. Then one remembers that art can transform "a very world of solid weight , " as In the Milan cathedral , "into a fairy delusion of frost work. " Contrast , for example , the grace of the lovely corsage ornament with some of the stiff , set designs of the past decade. The two free untrnmnu'led bow knots , Jeweled with pearls and diamonds , arc linked to- of the moment , and the ono for which the greatest number of stones arc being used for the coming season's trade. Is the brace let. It Is to bo found in swell shops In the most costly and beautiful varieties. Large diamonds Joined by diamond en crusted scroll work , turquoises surrounded by diamonds linked together wltb chains of Indian gold , rubles and emeralds cnbpchon alternating on heavy chain of gold , slender chain secured with pear shaped pearl clasp to which is attached a pear shaped pcail pendant , all reaching In price Into the hun dreds and thousands of dollars. DHMISi : OK A FAMOUS 1IICI.I.I3. StcniiilinntNlimeil After Her nnd TiitiMts Spoken In Her Honor. The death of Mrs. Salllo Ward Downs , which occurred at Louisville on the 7th Inst. , recalls to the minds of Americans all over this country Iho career of the famous Kentucky belle , who held the palm of beauty undisputed in nearly every part of this country during the days of the ' 50's and GO'S. Snlllo Wnrd was not only admired for that most gracious gift of God a lovely face HUCKLES AND SWALLOW NECKLACE. J" get her with ropes of pearls tassclcd each with a largo diamond. A SWALLOW NECKLACE. Next to the tiara , perhaps , the necklet needs to be selected with the greatest reference - enco to Its urronilngni' s. The llorld-fnced woman for Instance will avoid emeralds ; while no clever woman with a sallow com plexion will risk a pearl necklace , for these lovely ornaments derive their chief luster from a transparent skin. Kor one who could give It white ground , nothing could be lovelier than one of the new necklets hero represented. This U made up of three rows of pearls caught together at Intervals with Ewullows encrusted with diamonds. There aru swallows and swallows In Jewelry. Hut the designer of these graceful forms has evidently gone * to school to natuie , and has given the glittering. Hashing bird on the wing. In their beaks they carry pear-shaped pearls , and their eyes are of rubles. A diamond mend cluster snap secures thu whole , VALUE OK AUTISTIC SETTINGS. Clasps , brooches and buckles are Indis pensable as finishing touches to lovely woman's toilet , and should properly be something precious as Jewels , and It Is de lightful to know that an Interest lu this di rection ts being revived. The real Jewel counts for much moro than glittering HVIUS , as It adds to them the new meaning ot the artist's mind. What makes Its value iti not the slzo or Intrinsic Ueauty ot tbe stones , and beautiful form but sfio > vas loved for her character as well. She wajjjjjopular wltl the rich and the poor. ftUu'.j/jame / of her beauty Invaded the mirEcr ) ' , pud a tiny girl , who hud learned i # hjr catechism that all things tenutlfnlujvo ) ft , made by God , added , "And God male | MHlllc Ward.1 ono duy.at Sunday schoq ) , f\v ! ) , ' < ! the was asked to recite some of jh/j' l/tf'ely things In nature for which the Cr itoiVfO ) ( the unl- vereo should bo thanked , A palatial steamboat that plowed the waters between Loulsvlllo ami Now Orleans was honored with her name , and toasts weru drunk In her honor , and poesy Ulcl'.e'l wherever men got together to upeak In pralft of woman's charms. Mrs. Downs was born In Louisville CC years ago , says a writer In the Si. Louis Republic. She was the daughter of Robert J. Ward , one of Kentucky's wealthiest am most popular citizens. Even in Europe the famous Kentucky belle cut a dash. She was presented at the court of Kranco , and'the Empress Eugenic was more impressed with her charms thai those of any other woman h i had ever seen. The winter after she had made her entr > Into society shu went to New Orleans , The city was soon at her feet and her triumphs in the Crescent City ure c'ttll memorable There she mvl T. Dlgelow Lawrence o iloston , and the ronmnllc part ot her life began. Lawrence was the son of Abbott Lnw- rcnce , then minister to England. He was of the best New England stock , born In northern purple. He weed the fair SaUie and won her. A reported engagement with a wealthy young Kcntucklan was broken off. In ISIS. when 20 years of age. she became the wife of Mr. Lawrence. The wedding was the most magnificent the south hnd ever seen. The Ward man sion was conducted on n scale of great mag nificence. The lower floor formed the most magnificent ballroom west of the AIJo- ghcnlcs. All about were conservatories ; tropical plants , palms and camellas.lth avarles hid the artisan's work , while In the middle of the place was n court with a pool and fountain. There the entertainments were given on the greatest scale of magnificence. A din ner for Invited guests never cost less than $1,000 , and the larger entertainments were beyond description. After the wedding young Lawrence took his bride to Huston. His molher. Mrs. Law rence , was of the staid , rpservcd New Eng land type , and the young southern girl did not take to her. So it was not long before she left her husband and returned to Louls vlllo. Hero she was received with open arms and resumed her sway. The Trilby "rago" did not surpass the Sallle Ward craze. Her walk nnd manners were Imitated , and wherever she went she was followed by crowds of girls and women eager lo cnlch her mancr , style of dress and way of wear ing her hair. Ono morning George D. 1'rentlcc. the noted writer nnd poet who was then editor of the Louisville Journal , received n letter from T. Illgelow Lawrence containing n check nnd n special request that ho Insert the following notice : "Whereas. My wife. Patlle Ward Law rence , has left my bed nnd board , notice Is hereby given lhal I will not pay any debts of her contracting. "T. IIIC.ELOW LAWRENCE. Iloston. " The advertisement appeared nnd Imme diately the city went wild. In those days more attention was paid to matters of honor and chivalry than to presidential campaigns now. Sallle Wnrd posted ! Men treated their slaves In that style ; lo such a woman It was an unpardonable Insult. Every gallnnt In the city rushed to Hit- Joutnal ofllce nnd demanded that reparation bo made und the Insult sent back. It was soon decided what to do. The legislature was In session , but would noon adjourn. There was no railroad. Prentice nnd Nathaniel \Volfc , n friend of the fam ily , secured relays of fast horses. They started for the capital and rode so hard to arrive In time that three horses were killed. Arriving there , they wenl Into the presence of the lawmakers and demanded that such an Insult to the women of Kentucky be wiped out. U was done. The legislature of Kcn- ucky , by a rising vote , divorced Snlllo Wnrd Downs from T. Hlgelow Lawrence , hits deeming they hnd flung back in his eeth the Insult offered by the northerner. The next day such notice appeared In the Journal , Upon returning lo her father's house she met Robert W. Hunt , one of the most elc- Bant and polished gentlemen of his day. They were married , and ho took her to a palatial homo In Now Orleans , where her career as n beautiful married woman was even more pronounced than as a lovely maid. During her sojourn In New Orleans sin traveled extensively. Famous While Sul phur Springs was her domain during the Eummcr. and In the fall and winter months she often came north on visits to friends , who admired and wore anxious to entertain her. her.In In the fnll of 1SCO she visited St. Louis , during the time when the prince of Wales made his famous Jaunt , and the scion of the royal house of Great Hrltaln met the lovely Kentucky belle at the fair grounds on prince of Wales' day at a ball given by the swell set of St. Louis. Her marriage with Dr. Hunt wns n very happy one. Two children were born to them , n son , John , and a daughter , who died when 9 years of age. Dr. Hunt dleil shortly after the war , and for sonic years tbe still fascinating woman remained a widow. Then she married Mr. Veno I' . Armstrong , n wealthy clothing merchant of her native city. He , too , lived only a few years , and eleven years ago , at the nge ol 51 , she was again wedded , this time to Mr George K. Downs , who survives her. Mr. Downs is a wealthy retired merchant , nm' during the last three years of her life he was untiring in his nttentlon nnd devotion to her. They have had apartments at tht Gait house , where Mrs. Downs lived be fore her marriage. When she was n girl everything she wore set Iho style for Ihc rest of the young women , who tried to Imitate her In everj way. There was a "Sally Ward" walk , a "Sally Ward" shoe , a "Sally Ward" glove and what not , and merchants and modistes could not praise their ware any higher than b > ; saying , "This Is what Sully Ward wears. " She was the first woman In Louisville to use opera glasses. The night she appeared In a box with them she caused moro Inter est than the play which wns then being presented. liefore the custom of trying on gloves wns Introduced she bought her gloves by the box. A merchant who now re sides In Covlngton , Ky. , says ho was a clerk In a largo establishment on Fourth street He had heard of Sally Ward , but had never seen her. A dance was to be given at her father's homo and -she called to buy gloves He wnj'cd on her. It was the custom tbei lo charge Hie clerk with any damage to a pair of gloves. The young woman looked over his stock of gloves , and began trying on pairs of thorn with utter recklessness as to the financial ruin she was heaping upoi the young clerk. She had gone through n dozen or' more boxes , and he had sovera times shown his great alarm and concern She did not seem to notice It , but kept on Irylng on gloves , When she had found the styles he wished she gave her order for the box. The young clerk was almost cryIng - Ing at the piles of boxes she had brokei without his being able to stop her. After she had teased him for a while she turnei and said' "Don't be alarmed , young man ; I wll pay for all the boxes I have broken , Sciu my box over to my home and make out the bill for the goods I have looked over. " The personality of this famous belle was remarkable , not only for beauty of physique but for a grace of movement and manner that was ever present. She was slightly above the height of the Venus ill Medici and even at blushing 1C attracted at tention by the mature development am rounded beauty of a figure tlmt aftcrwan became famous , not only In this country but abroad. Her admirers say that no other had so round and white an arm ; that there was no hand In thu world EO beautiful as the soft , white , tapering hand of Salllo Ward and as for her small feet , their beauty ani the daintiness of the shoes that Incased them were celebrated from Uoston to Now Orleans. Her face , Judged by purely clan slcal models , could not bo called beautlfu without fault. Her complexion was fair and clear , and glowed with the rich blooi of health and youth ; her eyes were sof and tenderly bluet , and her lips , cherry rei and somewhat full , had those adorable curves that make the mouths of some women bcwltchlngly beautiful , whether in repose or wreathed In smiles. But It was the striking and ever-changing expression tha made the face of Sallle Ward beautiful It was the light that beamed In her eyes the tenderness that hovered about her lips the life , eparklo and mischief that bright cncd her face that made her beautiful. Oversklrta In long pointed effects ar among the leading features of autumn fash Ions , Three rather deep ruffles lined with dlf fercnt color and fabric appear ut the top o sleeve models far early autumn gowns. Ruches and puffings of chiffon are nnotlie feature of dress trimming , and narro\ double frills of chiffon edge many a lacu col lar. epaulet and jaunty little bolero. Whllu many of the now dress skirts show a strong tendency for trimming , thu bodtc Is still the portion of. the gown wher decorations continue to flourish wlthou limit. Green Is a color very much to the fore both In dress and millinery. In monochrom effects as well as In combinations and cole schemes of every possible description. The lustrous semi-transparent old-tlm pineapple silks that have been revived till season have proved very popular , and th preferred linings for them aru those o green , rose color , or mauve taffeta. IJluu and whlto foulards with two ruffle ot line white lawn finished with a hem o luo lawn nro onn of thu novelties , nnd 10 boil Ice displays fichu of white IAWII Ith the blue edged runlet and n belt of root ! velvet ribbon. A feature of the Importation ot Krcnch ewers , which arc so much the rape. Is their cry nrtlsttc branching and grouping , nnd omo rare and beautiful effects arc produced i their arrangement on French picture hnts or garden-party wear. Recent Importations of summer dresses ontnln now foulards nnd French organdie * . V novelty among these silks Is the Introduc- lon ot only two or thrcp liny gilt threads et about nn Inch nnd n halt apart , nmld malt chlnlz flcurc * . llrarps of rdnln untln or delicately figured Ibbon. finished with bows nnd ends of the ame where the braces unite nt the wnist , rp effectlvply nnd highly fashionable dec- rations for summer corsages. Shoulder iows and ends to match nro added. Rome blue nnd white foulards nrp made rlth n bodice of whlto embroidered uousscllno dc sole , nnd n shirred pleco of Ilk with n nntrow bending on either side f the front , leaving a llttlo space between s drnwn around to form n corselet effect , ml la finished nt the waist line with n nnr- aw black satin bell. Among Iho collars , vcsls. ruches nnd nrlous other little make-up nccessorles of Iress is the bretclle-llkc arrangement of Ibbon so effective over thin , simple gowns , ml ilbboiiH. seven , four and two Inches vide are used in Its construction. One cape ollar Is of black satin covered with Jetted ilnclc tulle. The hardy Scotch tweeds have n favored dnce among the season s popular textiles , 'hcse goods nre much used for cycling , achtlng nnd traveling : costumes. The pat- crns this year are very handsome , ninny bow I MR a mixture of fine , beautiful heather olors , the surface looking one faint hue a hort dlutanco away , but showing from three o fi\c colors on close Inspection. The most popular colors of fnshlon are native , apricot , green nnd yellow , nnd the ovllcst batiste dresses nre made over apricot affetn silk. The linen is Inserted with notlfp of Valenciennes Ince which ndd very nuch lo the effect of color underneath , and L wide belt of silk and n lace bolero over he color give the latest style to the bodice. i"oke effects nre still very much used , but he newest fancy In bodices Is mndo full. The belted round waists continue In high , 'ogue. nnd this summer are made In endless vnys , one of the very popular forms bplng ho old-fnshloned models seen In protrnits of our grandmothers , with ninny rows ot fine .auglngs both front nnd back. Many India muslins , organdies and French Inwns ar ranged In this way are made up without Inings. The waist Is thus more easily and lorfcctly fitted and Is worn over a half-low silk underwnlst. Masque bodices , loose Empire jacketK and ilouso waists , with closely fitted silk linings undo of black , green , brown and deep plum colored velvet , will he highly favored this 'nil. ' These small garments of velvet give a rich appearance at comparatively small 'xpense. ' They arc effective oversklrts of silk , brocade satin , shepherd's check , gay Tarlan fabrics , fine silk and wool goods , or , ndccd any stylish skirt cut In fashionable shape and gracefully hung. Skirts have varied In circumference be tween four and one-half and eight yards iround , but even in silks , brocades and 'ancy wools the stiff Interlining so necessary : o correct style for seasons past Is now wholly abolished , the exaggerated width very greatly modified , and the stiff lining reduced to a narrow facing ; and where silk Inings .arc out of the question , ono of their satisfactory substitutes , replied slimline and rustic percnllno. Is used by the modiste , with or without the moreen or haircloth facing. Four and one-half or five yards Is now the limit of the best made skirts. 1 < V m I n I lie Notes. At a recent exhibition of miniatures Mrs. Cleveland's latest portrait wns the only ono jialnted In a high-necked gown. It wns ex ceedingly becoming , however. Miss Kate Snnborn , the well-known writer , nnd niece of Daniel Webster , is devoted to the wheel and stated the other day that slit can now ride pretty well on level ground , The queen of Italy has decided to spend two months al Ihc beautiful city of Naples She Is very fond of Naples , as It was the birthplace of her eldest son , prince of Na ples. ples.Mrs. Mrs. Henry M. Stanley has just received from an American firm a beautiful bicycle enameled In pure white with trimmings or silver. It is an exquisite specimen of work manship. Mrs. Croly Jennie Juno has presented the eight surviving members of Sorosls with handsomely etched 1SC8 plus In commemo ration of their efforts to foster and preserve the first woman's organization. Miss Elsie de Wolfe's gown with which she has been creating such a sensation In Bohemia Is of gold-woven cloth over n pettl- ccal of Ivory salln , embroidered In silver. This toilet cost the neat sum of $7uO. The princess of Wales , by having given such largo orders to the weavers of Spltai- flelds for silk to bo used for the trousseau of the Princess Maud , has shown her prnc- tical sympathy with an historic and formerly active Industry. Memphis has recently appointed a woman superintendent of charities. She Is Miss Winnie Kurl , and she replaces a man. She Is a young woman of energy and Integrity , nnd is expected to make nn efficient In- cumbenl of the office. Miss King of Ox t mi , England , has just been prcsenled with a handsome Illustrated address and a gold-mounted umbrella from the cabmen of London as nn acknowledg ment of her thoughtfulness In providing the money for the building of a shelter for them. Miss Llllas C. Davidson , president of the London Lcdles' Cyclist association , has pub lished a hand book for lady riders. The book deals with the subject of dress , , eti quette for town and country riding , gives personal hints and discusses the topic of health by cycling. Miss Jane Stone , a Philadelphia young woman , has gone Into the oil business In the newly discovered petroleum fluids of east Tennessee. She makes her own leases. It Is her purpose tr- drill ten wells before fall nnd she has contracted for 100,000 feet of lumber for derricks. Mrs. Pepper has for some weeks past been Instructing the princess of Wales In the art of spinning flax. The royal lady already knew how to spin In wool. Mrs , Pepper Is the principal of thu Langdalo Linen Indus try , and n few days ago received the gold cross for her beautiful work at an art ex hibition. The duchess of Marlborough has just had an exquisite miniature painted on Ivory by Miss Kussner , who has been her guest for some time. Her beautiful neck and shoulder. * are veiled In diaphanous clouds of tulle. The duke considers the portrait so excellent that ho has ordered two others to bo painted , and tbe price of each will bo 5500. A memorial has been suggested as a token of respect to the late Mrs. Rundlu Charles , author of "Chronicles of the Schonberg- Cotta Family. " It will probably take the form of the endowment of a bed In the North London hospital , near which she re- sldod and was for many years a director. It will bo called tha "Elizabeth Rundlu Ch'arlcs Dcd. " Miss Thomas , who was recently elected ofllcleru of the Academy Franculso , Purls , on account of her active and appreciative criticisms of musicians and musical events In thu French capital , Is thu first American woman who has enjoyed the distinction. Her recommendation WAS signed by Alex ander Gullmcnt , C. Salnt-Saens and M. Miibscnet. At thu recent reunion of the Daughters of the American Revolution at Saratoga , the reception of Mrs. Donald McLean , regent - gent of tbe society , amounted tu an ova tion. Mrs. McLean Is u woman of high character and strong Intellectuality , and has the somewhat rare faculty of winning women. Her admirers among women aru many , and they admire In the superla- tlvo decree. Miss Gcorgiana Leo Morrell , the graduate of Vassar who recently received the de gree of Doctor of Phllobophy at Heidelberg university , was so honored for her transla tion of a poem from the Auclnbeck manu script In Edinburgh from middle English Into German and for editing It herself. It will be remembered that MUs Morrell was thu first woman admitted tu thu lectures in English at the University of lierlln. The queen of Portugal Is now thoroughly equipped as u trained nurse , and has re cently Induced severnl Portuguese Indies to study medicine and trained nursing. Queen Amello Is ns progressive nnd Acrompllfduul ns her ulster , the Duchrsg Aostft. Moth Indies hn\n exquisite taste In the choice of their gowns. The queen , however , linn tlmcj each day to superintend the education of hp"r children , the crown prince nnd the Duke de Hegn. Colored silk muclln Is one of the fnshlon * able trimmings for ( lowered silk , and so on , without limit. Miss Klngsley , the famous African ex- [ ilorer. will soon undertake another expedi tion. She reports that women do the most dlfllcult work among nil savage tribes and nre often stronger thnn the men. The wnlst models par excellence for the reason continue to Impart great breadth to the shoulders , for what they lack In the ) quantity of material , formerly put Into ram pant sleeves , thpy mnke up by menus of wide-reaching cape collars , square , broad epHiiltts and shoulder effects more or less elaborate In style. Miss Jnne Addnms , the distinguished American pioneer of university settlements In the stums , who Is now on n visit to I/on- don , IK surprisingly youthful. At first glnnce she appears little more thnn n girl , nnd to Judge from her nttlre slip does not believe , like FO many other women rc- foi mers , that dowdlne. s nnd strong-minded- ness nre synonym ins. She Is slightly built , handsome , and possesses such winning way * thnt those wu > oner meet her cense to won der nt her success In western slum work. Mrs. McKlnley nsserls her utter disbelief In the superstition which 1ms beeii attached to the wearing of opals. Her husnnnd gave her some handsome opals and diamonds on Christmas of 1MM , nnd she snys thnt nothing ; but good fortune has fallen to their lot since. Mrs. McKlnley has more thnn n dozen diamond pins , and n bracelet thnt In truly a flrclot of those precious stones. Her wntch Is thickly studded with the stones , nnd when she appears In evening dress her lingers nre simply ablaze with Jewels. Ilomoves wrinkles mid all truces of ago , II feeds tlntniKli the poren mid builds ui > tlu1 fatty membrane * nnd wiiHted tissues , nourishes the shriveled mid shrunken s'tln , toni'H mid invigorates tlu > nerves and mus- eli'K , enriches the impoverished blood ves sels and supplies youth and rlastlelty to tin' action of the skin. It's perfect. Hewure of substitutes mid counterfeits. Yale's Original Skill Food , price Jl.TO mid JI'CO. At all drug stores. Guide to Ueauty mailed free. Write for one. one.MMK. . M. YAI.1-3 , Health nnil Complexion SppclHlixt , Ynle Tvmiile nf llvnuty. llli Htutu Hlreet , C'hicaKo. NEW COLLAR , IV piuvliasiiiK oods made at tin : following Nebras ka fictori'-s. If . you can not find wliat yon want , communicate with the manufacturers as to w It a ( dealers handle thuir goods. BAGS. BUHLAP AND TWINE. 1IICM1S OMAHA II.YO CO. Manufacturers of nil kinds of c lton unil bur- Kip bugs , cuiton Hour sacks and tvvlnu u lalty. C14-01C.C1S . llth .St. BUEWEIUKS. OMAHA nnivi.ASSOCIATION. . Car lonil ehlpincnls mnde In our own retnn. oralor cars , lilue Hllibon , Kllte Kxpurt , Vlcn.iu U p-irt nnU Family Kxpoit delivered to all pa-ib of thu city. FLOUIt. S. F. ( JII.MA.V. Manufacturer of Cold Medal Klour. C. IIllack. . ManuKcr. Oinoia. IRON WORKS. DAVIS .t C ( \Vll.l < JIIO.V WOIIICI. Iriin unit HriiHN KiiniuliTM. Manufacture-in und Jobbers of Muchlnery. 'kn- * rnl icpalrlnu a i-prclaiiy. 1M1 , 1W3 and I'M J-JCKBOII turret , Omaha , Ken. I.NDIJSTIIIAI , IUO.V AVOHICS. Manufuctuiliik' nnd rrpalrlni ; of all lilnfa of n.ncliIntry. riiKlnrs , pumpa , elevators , prntlna ( ircsHcn , ImnKcrs , Blmftlni ; and coupllngu , 1114 ana H03 Howard HI. . Omaha. viiititints woaics. Manufacturers of Arcblteculral Iron U'uilc. Oennul l'oundr > ' . Mnclilne and lllnrkmnltl work. KnBln r nnd C" > nrni'loi ( for Klra I'ro'jf Ilulld- IHKB. Olllre and works ; U , I' , Ky. m.l . Ho , lilli itrect , Omulm. NIGHT WATCH. FIJI 13 BRHVICE. AMKHICAN UI.STIIICT TIJI Thu only perfect protection to prnpeity Kxam- I no M. HCHI IhlnKon ear Mi. Iteducra Ineuranca rates. ISO ) DouKlaa si reel. SHIUT K J. II. KVA.VS MillllA.SK.V KIIIIIT COJII'ANV. Uxclutlve .cutloiu klilrt la'.lom. illi rarnani. TENTS AND AWNINGS. U'OI.F III'.OS. ' ACO. . Manufacturcm nf lenii. awnliiK" , tarpollona , ( laira , lianiiorii und lt mcr . TK'ITS I'OIt ItKNT. 703-70J Kuutll BlxtCflitll ttlejl , Onmba , Glectrotyplng and StcreotypMR 1111 HuvTurd tit.'ouilll , XK.il. UUENTWORTH llm IViilriil \ \ > t. HAILITARY 1ilui'e" : * " " ' Kiulpiucnt Comjilete. Huppllud by ttiu Oorern t- . Send m Mp/inFIVIY > "t t ltu Anusand AriuyOnicer. Addruw , jrTforVululoisuo / tAUCni I. HAJOI1 tAHDtono JHIHJ , H. A. , SUPf. , UIINOTON , HD