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r- : - - . 1'JIE oMAhA DAILY ] 31i SUNDAY , APIITTi i3 1890.
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_ WOMAN'S DOMAIN.
Pitiu AXI ) 'L tiit
3IJI1II Iai1srk. : tn0Fi'tehlng oei.
t1'pi ApprnviI hr PiiJi Iiui.
NTV YOItIC , April 9.-Only a week ngo
nrbed ) In 1astor novItIes , thIs woIc
IMme Fashion ha turned her attention to
umner , trappings an4 In color8 and do-
lgn never peen before. 'I'ho shops are itow
.atjoundtng 'with her waic.
ilut It 07ily Mrs. IahIon were a hade
c'ss rapklt
There I.rnatiy nn old love onowouhi ltko
to cling-to tind nothavo a now one tIiriit
11pn thetti , but aa long u the woI(1 ( vag
03 It ilo k ' I contaicy In tashtou attach-
mi1t mu4 be the thing. -
What will become of the t1iIn.houIderci1.
rcrawny-arrncd women one wonder whn
tlht 1eeve IiIt replaee-th oop bn ?
, Aaet tby no cny tbTetenn to o.rno
1)pck ) au1 are In Btich quaint InsIntIng
nut1o1s that ono cen' cavce1y r sent. them.
2lut , If ( lie fa5uIon OrAcIe may ho bolloved ,
pre many moflc nrc over 1covcs will go
_ _ _ _ _ _ lc4cJc to tile old kIn.tIglit principles , w1itn
arin needed to look a If they have been
-tleItc(1 nd pouted .lnto cases Ilico aUsagoS ,
1athV comfort wt unkhown.
Thopthero 18as.latbIy been a reacIon In
fvorottrIinmed ekirts , many of the etItnmtr
deelgue In thlft toxtllo being most e1abrate.
There are organdy. Swlse and daInty' ' inusIn
sklfte , decked nlmo8t 'to the l nee with lace
edged flounces and qulillnga of ribbon. ' -
Many of the mohair eklrte in the novelty
weaves bavo the S001115 outlined with satin
pipIngs and there niu linen juDc , each gore
of which shows 'froit hem to belt elaborate
decorations of lace , braid or embroidery.
, wen the tailor skirts are running iitichto
1)10111 ) and fancy braid trimmings . at the
bottom , and , though there are alcirts In plain
and thowered silks nod brccaded woole as
severely untrimmed asiormerty , they haven't
the elnt of the hatosti stann.
WAISTCOATS IN FAVOR.
Ihit there are certain trim little waIstcoats -
coats being worn In conjunction with some
or the 1nglIeh tailor go'fle that one trusts
% 'ili , ltlo Tenny'oa's brook. go o forever.
They 'ore ua snug and dapper' that they carry
with thorn a sense of cxtremo noatiis , anti
wash vestings are the materlale most used.
- ome of these vctIng are In bold plaids
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BLACK ANE.WHITE SILK.
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l that ; have& sporty' hook , ddnr.t3 the _ girl who
loves ji. mannish iflnke UI ) . Otheni are In
bright red or blue initteriud with tiny star3 ,
diinonds. tJct , and leafdesigns , wtiie rch
; cream-white linen danjiek Is as bicIc as
cardboard and has a luttrous eatin finish.
' In cut tuc1 EenraI efect hieEngUa waist-
_ _ _ _ coata ape "it' coquettish masculinity Und are
proyided the brcast and waist pockets
of the manly iirtlcle. They are sngle ! or
double breastei , and , arp cut eitJie very high
4cr else quite low. like .man's aven1ng vet. ,
t If there are any reyers they are u'ually
round and very-urroW. WItl such w'ale-
catB. vhtch'bY t'hewiy ; will be worn 1atr
.with the linen and duck suits , ito veli os
I with the tweede. chieviots , aerges and
c mohairs 1)0W seen , a vtif linen collar anti
' - .shilrt front stUd narrow -bow tie are correct
t ccoinpanimOIitS.
I OthIioticC'a made of bandenna and Turkish
ltandkerchteU' are becoming and useful
oelties. - Meny are sold ready made ntue
shop. . the gay borders of the great -silk
squares torniflg yplce anil sleeve Puffs.
- The bandanna bodices 'are short and round ,
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gathered full , and button at the back , vnere ,
butterfly bows of the - borderingfinish the
neck and waist. line. The Furkisli affnirv
- are often more eabQrate. and wIth , rich east-
tI * rn colors of the liant11cerjhefs , yIIov lace'
or 'Itiack ' itet wijI bb usti uver contraetiig.
- ; linings . with flue -offct. ( . - ' - ;
' - } XTJLEME COSTI4SS.
: : not think flat that uch a bodice is for
( ordinary folk-unl ss. It 'Is niado on tub side
ct the w.atcr. Zbe , 1mpprted.inoa.aro no
r (1QI : 4' jlear. , nt1 to , iut'Ihea of what
1u ans In thts aeelO , lthc price
, ; tst Iow being asked . for , otto . . ti aI1roadvay
; shop ! . . I
, flut oh ! such a bodice , such a bodfe au
4liht was ! The coloring In itself vou1d lutvo
fliadO any nian' pretty ; hucli dint , tender
browiis and pontegranite reds and yehiowo.
with here tuIl there a , high glint of flame and
gret.n in thu ohactows-tho euddenhy a dash
like the sun on golden armor !
WJth , .this tbere , vero pritty 1rhteli lines ,
a IOflg , Qpe effecL with a snughid- '
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ECIIU IsINQN a
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hlnZ Q , nerrw hit braid pv r little haunting g
b3salkQ. ge
TIto bug. cloo sovc.s were shirred length.
wlst over cords , the 'hort puff at the shoulder
bunhd 111gb into a butter1y ooI , II
Tlttuu thro % as black brussels noi In a 'V c
at the front utd buck of the bctt-vo ovpr
raije % siik JhirLs of 11w same tu the sleeve c
JUQ. ) igd a jure1ed ttroaL clasp and bolt
, burJi its , a uJtaua might sport. ' 1out
.outler tbts gorxtgo wue a 1ov' . anti this cxc r
trV.VDgSJIQQ Pt it hung gould ho f rgiveu t i
tun wpiuau. "Fancy II at a Iclnoidco fork o t
bre3I.fet on a aw"tI Nay morning ! ' iiiie4 I a
' 0110 .g1I3 is abe looked at it , Then another e
' uiitau uloog said that h vouhd tie adorable e m
with a plaIii black cloth or peau da iota
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skirt , and than they both aighod agaIaand
went sway without Iii
In direct contrast to the other splendid
colorings of the , cason arc the ecru linens
anti battetes that are being o extensivoiy
ueti. "Linen lrntistes' are the thinnest of
theaa linens , end ( hero. are some designs
showing leaf antI flower applications in color
( hat are extremely b'aiitlful. A warp prlnteJ
batlete to another novelty and i caiLd
"painted linon. "
The plain cern batistes are used for gowns ,
summer dust cloaks and parasols In every
degree of dressiness , and are made up over
colored silks which eow effectively through
J lns rtlons of white or c eam guipure. .
A ummer tavellng cloalc pictured Is of
unbicachod flnon with an openwork band of
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PAINTED LINOI'T.
linen andwhie gupur ! forming-a cape and
stole arrangement. This Is appliqued en
stein-green satin ribbon , a thin surah lining
throughout the cloak matching in tint.
A ROSY SYMPhONY.
A Worth costume do llaze shown is also of
the plain ecru batite. Insertions of on-
bleached guipure over a lining of peach bIos-
soin pink silk ornament the skirt and bodice
of this effectively. A cruth band of peach
pink velvet finishien thio throat and waist line.
The hat with this toilet to a close French f
walking ehape ofwhite chip widened at the
iildos with huge clumps of black prlmroscs.
A toll pink aigrette takea away the square s
look so trying to many fapeo-notwithstand-
log square lists ore the thing-and lifts the s
left side to approved heights.
The painted hlnono are raro.'here by the
yard , but one of the best Broadway shops c
I showing them in darhing suit' patterns. h
A delicate scroll tracery in black Is epo tI
elegant dcalgn in them , aud there are some a
with clitni and othera with Persian effects. a
A skirt of painted linen Just sent over by f
Fehiz for the summer races has a round
bodice of klited black silk muslin. The
black warp Printed scroll design mentioned
covers , In this caio , each entire gore of the
skirt , which Ia lined with 'vhlte tllk. A
white silk muslin gamp over pink gras grain.
a pink kid belt and a breast knot of pink
sndwhite roses are elegant details of the
, bed ice.
Hcr , so iotent arc their charming sug-
gestiot. oiio foOls awarm desire to talk
aboutt1io hinep- parasols as veil , one : only
feei that one iust nof. Sufficontiuno ! the
- day are the evils thereof. flut one plain
nero hatlate parasol , remember , with a siik
hung a t'oft green , ' viii bu a smart and
useful addition to a knock-about summer
toilet , NINA FITCH.
JUST 'ISLINIC OF IT ,
% ezil ti , It-1 , reseji t iI I u I Iit Coroz.n-
( ItObe of Itnssin'N Ill,5prcMN.
A fifth of a million of clohiara foia dress to
be worn culyonce. . Ju.t think ¶ p it ! That
amount -of ! flOflC 1nvestel at. 6. per cent
would bring in the tidy itttle'lucome of ti
12,000 a year. or$1,000 a m , nth. Most e
women would be willing to accept. the roepangi
Etbhhity of wotrylng along on $12,000 a year ,
and run the rs1r of ixitording one.or two be- al
coming gowns 'ii the bargain. The lump sum
of $200,000 , which title rate of interest repros. w
seats , has alrea4y been invoted in a corcirn- '
tton robe for Alexandra Feodorovna , empress
of Russia.
For a few hours on the 24th of next May
--d = = - Wa
tootioa of that once popular itand-by ,
"bsmca description , " it would be an M -
tempt to give an adequate idea of this won-
derfui gown , which represents the work of
so many skillful bends.
A world famous artist t1esIgno it , a world
fatuous milliner constructed It. anti a world
famous Soweier directed its adornment.
Ito foundation is of white satin , the richest
and heaviest the mule of Lyons could pro-
duce. The cut of the skirt do-es sot differ
frOm prevailing styles , for it In an unwritten
law that coronation robes tnua pre.erve a
severe simplicity of outline. If , for instance ,
time world of fashion were undergoing a
flounce anti pannier- age at praent insteed
of the plain , full skirt era , thion tue cm-
press' $100,000 corcatiom 'robe would not be
in otyie. No suCh dark ciouti. however ,
overhangs the 24tl of May. Tue convon-
tionni coronation skirt nccur1e perfectly with
prevailing modes.
WHAT Thil GOWN IS L1KI.
- 'rho skirt is cosc < vltk , a&1 & oraUon of
nearis and tiny diainondW , t'eirctl , 'b afrct- :
work of golden wires so arraned a to ( qrm a
conventional design , Tilts 11ctorat1on fr an
achiicveinent of tionitattmfarnacientiflo ;
work , and , whil bblnptltIon ah' eon-
suntod inonthin of llatent ! oiI by the"most
okihhful jewelers in l'aris , be : effet' ' di the
whio ha that of eient slmi1Iiblt.
'Fun bodice is low cuh wtii ) angel sieovc
falling from ehouldem' to hni. 110th bico
and lcevos are hitcrbl1l coycred vith , the
Jeweled trimming that atltir'i1 ' tlip , kirt ,
The decoration of the st cve and bodice ,
imowevor , differs in deegtt. ! - ' '
.TIio-crmlne lined iunti-of b'ti'efstlvcr
brocade is attachdd , to tluj b1puders : and.
eweeps away the I ngth of aovrarythdsin- .
long , graceful lines. " '
At. his coronation the czar wilt be coin
pletely outdone by his wife in gorgcdusnes
of attire Custom demanils that , IiI ' , , "lioly
czar , ' ' no Ito is known iii the ritunr'o tile
orthodox- church , ehal b ' crowned .la 'his
army uniform , which , of course , dbe , not
compare to a diaiiicad amid cari hSest own
garment. his crown , hovever oht to
go a long ray toward balancing matters ,
for it contains annie world-famous gems. it
was made for Catherine II , in Geneva , and
in hmnpo rsemnbles a mitre , At the summit -
mit is a croes of flyn perfect diamonds , and
tIm pear. ohapctt ruby , reckoned the fluect in
time world. Tile other jcwehs composing 1110
crown are white diamonds , of the nurest
watcr , and pearls. All these jcwes ! are set
in milver. _ _ _ _ _ _
Thu l'Oj'F.VilL LADY.
A. NoteI iI.Nton Girl Ojie of the
Spring JIVIIICN.
BOSTON , Aprii 0-"How much more tie-
h tgbtfuiiy social , " said Miss Suaaii hale ;
" bow much more case and abandon there a- !
ways scorns to be in a reception or an 'At
h lonjo' in a studio' , than the sanlo oort of
unction given in a drawing-room. "
At this remark ivo paused in our convor-
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atlon and glanced about the room , and cor-
ainly a more animated and picturesque
cene rarely meets the eye. Outside the tiny a
w as dull and dreary enough , but in the
harmingly artistic atohier of .Miss Laura C.
ills , overlooking Bayistors street , Boston , t
m meiiow light diffused from open fire , C
ntique lanterns anti candles fantasticaiiy it
rranged , the warmth of color that glowed
rom painting and eketch , the refined detail , ii
an Inch than any of her sisters. flut , while
they have the advantage in height , they cannot -
not cqua1 her Iii the matter of hair , notwithstanding -
withstanding that all three have curia over
a yard and a haif long. Not the least ra-
markable part of this wonderful- hirsute development -
velopment is that while all three of Mrs.
Davis' sisters had long hair from early childhood -
hood the young woman herself could .nover i
induce imer tessCs to fall bhow her shoulders ,
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ILLUSTRATIONS BY MISS REID. s
10 COSY tea table and groups of gay and
iger talkers. refreshed oiie's spirit like a
Ilmpso into Fairyland. All this , however ,
as but tlto harmonious setting for tar an.1
way the most pcturesque feature of the
rtornoon , which was none ether than the
eautitui poster lady , Miss Ethel Reed , for
hen ) thC reception was given in honor of
er recent engagement to Mr. Philip Hale.
MISS REED'S PERSONALITY.
She might. almost have stepped from one
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, 'I ' - : I TRAVELING COAT AND TAIL.OR GOWN.
lie WIll weat thir 50W ! ) 'whicb has taken six
1001115 to CotniletO , It then becomes prac.
cally state rpperhy , and will apeud tiu ! re-
aimider of its CX1SIUICO In a gIaa case
ihoietl , "Coronation Robe of 11cr Imperial
injety Alexandra Feodorovua , Empress-
onsort of , Itutsia , "
A $00,000 coetumo hying useless In a glass
ae , after a' few hours' wear , yihl make a
ice Jargot for tjto eloquence of anarchists.
ihiiists. sooiahlsts , anil alt the oilier "isis"
which Russia aboqnds. It zany be im-
glncd tbt tbtW will do full justice to its
v ery CtLF and diamond , its fretwork of
olden threads anti the clx mouths ci Patient
e li that it ttmk to complete It ,
OTIIEIL TJUaSU1ES ! RATIE ,
' ( 'we ltundrotl thousand dollars v1il tty no.
OOfl * complete ttte cost of the empress'
o renation costume. 'rhero is also the
r inlne-iined iiiantie of burnished silver urn.
a do. uim * the $ ate jenle , time coronet at
imleh its estitnate to have cost l,000,000 ,
The lieckiet contains canto of the finest
owe j0tvei * . in Europe , an Ill addition to
lese states ; eeas alto wli war -all the gifts
jcwttiry which list hiubband has given
her since their marria&o , Surely Solomon ,
veil In his ahlmtiesL days , cauki ao go the
npress one hotter ,
If any occasion could jutify the raur-
of her hilck ana white itosters as ahie otood
there , lter pale strong profile coming out
lrOtfl a mass of soft black hair brought well
down over ber cars , dressed h1 a SiIUilO
black gowu with white muslin capo coming
up close about the neck and trimmed all
around with a narrow trill , Utmost exactly
as she appears In. tito portrait of 'EtheI
heed , by herself , " 'which , bythe. . - ; way , led
to liar acquaintance with Mr. Halo ,
Upon his first view of this picture Mr.
lisle exclaimed , " 1 should hike to so the
woman who looks .hilce that ! "
A friend at once offered to present him ,
and waa not long In obtaining permission to
do so , and the romnantia old story of "bye
at first sight" was epacted over again as
rethiy and naturally as In the good old
primeval days. Several representatives of
time lInUs family were present lds recep-
lion , anti whlelt I rosuined conversatIon with
Miia Uaib % be said that they were all so
happy over Phiiip'a engagement , as the leas
ofhis brilliant and well beloved ± rother last
year had plunged him into a IOC1&UChOY
from which it bail seemed Impossible to
emerge , until like a , suddan light In the
darkness came his chance meeting with Miss
.Rcad.
.Rcad.A
A 'VERY YOU'flIFUI. AUTIST.
Although but 21 years of age , Nis Ethel
fleel ranks 'Onoilgat tim fotemost poator
ninkers of Atnr1ca , and 1158 attrActed con-
elderablo ( flti5fl in both Engiantl and
France. , , She hiausprung very rapidly Into
fame , her first poster being sent to a hioston
Sunday nowspppen,1 Fqbruary 24 , 1895 , bring.
log instant spantneoue recoRnitlon.
Since that tim ) e ilna had epore orders for
posters , desIgts I ? book cyers , Illustrations
for books , ot.tJljn ho could possibly fill ;
her posters , 2tIIgi. Traumerel , flehmind the
Arras , Fairy a1' The White Wampum atiti
others ( a national reputation.
Thso are all 'barncterizod by the same
broad effect f decoration , great dash and
brilliancy in Tomth anti color , flowing lines
and graceful ctItbs ,
aE.II7LY ; OI1IGINAT4 ,
Although Miss 'Reed has no doubt felt the
influence of thohienidaley school in her die-
petition of black and white , her work is Instinctive -
stinctivo with oiginaIty an versatility. 11cr
fron her pocket , and in a few moment-s.
there on a bIt of paper was a design so apt
and fitting as to delight both publiSher and
author.
Her latest contributions to art are the lb.
lustratlona of Miss Gertrude Smith's "Ara-
beila anti .Araminta Stories , " a charming book
for children. AB some one has eald , "Every
picture is a bower of delights , a paradise of' '
dainty devices of roses , toys and children. "
Miss lulls andMias , iteed are both from the
same gentie , quant ! old town of NewburypOrt ,
and when 12 years old Miss Reed began 11cr
tudiee In drawng with Miss Hills , since
which time they have been devoted friends.
- EARLY WORK.
From the start this palo , quiet child who
did not mingle very much with other young
it1 wue of absorbing interest to her teacher.
According to Mls Reed herself , she was
bath inattentiv& an rebellious as a
while with Mien hills , but she delighted in
tli titliet and artistic air -of the studio , anti
used to love to spend hours there reading and
writing. A little rairy story which she wrote
In verre and Iiiuotrated at this time was full
of poetic as Irell as artistic promisa ; and al-
thmouglm no doubt the poster fad has aided in
the rapid doveiopment of Jier decorative abhi-
fly , it vavery pronounced In her as a child ,
when Iter only field for It was paper dolls.
Idis3 hills tells me that simo used to make ,
dolls so 'fnrnaing with their flowing linet
and graceful curves , their big hats and
sleeves-when both ycre quito tuikuown to
fashion-their striking originality , that even , '
she used to beg for and treanuro them.
Though Nias Reed is decidedly of e
romantic temperament , alto ltad a docp ,
rich , abundant nature , at the same time
simple and serene. he Is one of the young .
' y ) fl who never chatter end unless alto
really has something to say takes refuge in
perfect silence ; time sort of temperament that
offers many surprises to those Who know her.
Site once took tlto rar of an Intense , pas-
lonato young vomnan , in some amateur the-
atricala in her native town , and enacted tue
part with so much warmth and color that
scarccy one In time audience recognized liar
as time cold , atqtjiesque yoting woman withm
whom they wer11cqqainted , And , though
she unconsciously1 meds a certain fascinating '
air of mystery iput her , alma. is au fond ,
8weetly simple , , S1t ; is passionately fond of
IflUSic and , ambition was to be a
violinist , but tp , Ironger desire to paint
seems for the tni1being to have gradually
forced this aspiratIon Into the background ,
In fact the whn4p3 of her youthful soul are
open to lmpres ra.from every source and
literature , Znusi4l4d art must yield of their
best to nourJshzph , stimulate her brilliant
imagination ,
A PICTUIIIO hERSELF.
Miss hula completed a miniature
of Miss bleed ? ilIcJb with another of Miss
Hilts' lncomparalJo ; ninlidures , lisa just ) eon
accepted by tbp5qcIety o American Artists
and 'will ho exijilihfetl In Now York from
March 28 until i7 , idiss Rood , with her
large green eyes leaking out ftom under
beautifully jarcle4 , ypbro ; bor fine pallor ,
with sometimes bst g tinge of pink coming
and goug 'autiite temples , bet abundant
soft black hair growing in the most bewitch.
hug vsy abolt brpw an neck , her strong
throat anti pc foctiy rounded curves is a
subject whom artiats joy to paint. She is
above all tidugs piastio and poses so wonders
fully that 'Mba ifilla ss since beginning j
this miniature she has wanted to do her
in 100 different 'positions , hte also. says that
though ho has palntec her many times h
over abs still has to struggle against a
tendency to vaint tier -too tall ; that titers is
that in lmer nature , her character that. gives -J
one a aeZlob-o ( unusual beigimt.
Philip .lltb her dance , he 28 years old t
and Is time , s in oC Edward Everett Tiale , lie l
I s an artt'Weo ( , haVIng studied at. the hoe- i
tots Art snueeun , the New Tork Art league
and sovam years in I'arle , during -which time
he izatl numerous exhibits at the salon , lIe
now holds a professorship In the , i3oaton Art s
museum ,
1
The young artist hoyor expect to be mars
rkd its the early spring , anti will go Imme.
dintely abroad , making Paris their temporary -
rary home , MARION hiEPflV.
IifllLT' lSChtI9Ol' hAul.
j-xraorqhIiinry lm.nKtl , ot a WOman's
"Vrusyn I ii g ( U nr.m
Mrs , , .1 , Davis of San Fancisoo has
gained the honor of having tile longest hair
of any woman on the coast , end verhaps In
the whole world , for the hugo braids of
which elto is so proud ro at extraordinary
length , measuring eighty inches. It there is
any ono with a longer growth than this the
San I"ranclsco Examiner has'yet to hear from
her.
her.lItre
lItre , tavie comes of a family remarkable
alike for their height anti the , length of their
hair , 'rliough Mrs. Iavia is five feet anti
nine incites in height , alto is shorter by nearly
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MISS ETHEL REED.
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york is all con9pved vith perkct freshness
Lnd freedom , lqr' brhh1ant imagination being
pparently un.r/untheleti by schools or con-
entions. Site Works wholly by moods , doing
tothing for diS tion in'a frenzy of work
urzing out oudbrlliiant , desIgn after another.
inly a short , tiiji'4go ! she conceived one of
er mOst sucdnetiful ideas for a book cover
hlle 00 the vpy to the omco of the pub-
slier. When 1ie atrlved she tonIc her penc.1
so that. it is only within the past few years bl
that they have developed such a tendency to
eclipse Paderewskl'e shaggy mane. But it is
not surprising that Mrs. Davis anti her
sisters houId have such a "crowning glory" th
to boast of , for the mother of tills Interest.
ing family had hair that dangled five feet
from tile crown of her head. Mrs. Davis va
seems to have lIved all herbifo among long- Pa
haircL people , for her sister-In-law , with sli
whom she now roldea at the Union hotel , in
the Potrero , has over four foot of hair ; and I e
her niece , a little girl scarcely 3 years old , n
has a braid twenty-one Inches in length1 ' ll
Which she succeeds daily in tangling very
' badly , and for which she regularly does 1 f
penance when tIm comb Is apphted. I ma
Wherever Mrs. Davis gea her hair 10 the
admiration anti envy of every man and I p
woman who sees it , It has so long been -a
subject for comment that Mrs. Davis has int
become accustomed t it. ult
"I never brush -my hair , ' said Mra. Dityla , du
as she removed the long coral pins that
held the great coils in Place about Imer head ,
"for tile reason that I tie not believe it Is rei ar
good for the hair , In fact I have demon-
no
etrated my belief to my own satisfaction by
- experimenting. When a girl I gave very
little attention to my hair , and in conse- ol
quenee it- did not grow at all. Sometimes col
I felt very nlueli.chiagrined to see how much vei
Icager alit ! prettier was the hair of all three
of my sisters , but 1 was aomowhat careless. ( ] ai
- When I became a woman I suddenly tie1 t'im '
yoloped a deslro to' hiavo long Itair like theirs a nd
and began to talco tlte. utmost care ofwhat aos
little I had. Every morning and sometimes
twice a da)1 I brushed it thoroughly , but it ii Ii
diii not grow any better , Then I noticed that ae
the brush , after th& daily' applIcation to the 00
, lmair , von when the latter lied no tondenc' ar
. tAl fail out , would. be filled with very fine
kair , 'apd ' soon I .realized that while the
brishIng lied no effect upon time long hair las
it , etrct.ually killed Limo siow growth , and I f
decheLto .stop. or
"Sineo-tlmon I have used nothing but. avery L ro
coarse comb , Evpry ntornin I go over time
iair thcrougtiy ! and carefully , removing 0
ivcry , snarl until It lit as free anti flowing as ha
water. Then I braid it. and coil t Into varied 5
: coltrures about my head. Do 1 use a tonic ? It'e
No , not exactly , unless that good soap nod ' t'e
warm water iuaybe called a tonic , As' I
said , I believe e combing with a'rough comb , ol
with a Iegularvhafnpoo , Is the 'best timing
to be 20141111 IO the hair. Under that treatc si
moat .inlne has grown to its present length nd
j a a feW years , You see , it Is all glossy and
silken. Thatjroatment 1 believe. prevents
the Jiair 'from becoming dry. IL is rather ro
i nconyonient t9 have -to stand on a chair ' Int
while arrangln1t , and I have often thought
of cutting off about half of it , but my friends ' 'th
have 'dissuaded jne , It lii not very heavy he
now , and never causes my bead to echo , as T
OfllO women claim theirs do ; but I am a _ t
afraid It it. keeps on growing there will a nt1
soon be too much for sue to handle. " a ut
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0T
Time Novel tint ! Cn$11) ' Deimille Clint T
( hlilJlCle Ii 44irlmiw 'l'ollet , U S
Women who are not unreasonably extrava'I 'af
icl
gant don't hesItate at buyog ! a half-dozen '
re
'ots of veil pins , some of turquoise in io
a wreath of cut steel , some cabochon emerT
aids in hypsy etUngs and ethers in the form a thi
of little gilt buckles and fancy shields. ted
French gilt anti cheap eiamel or imitation b od
s tones are their composition , though in at the ' tlmi
owelere' numbers of really costly and lovely Pits
pins are sold to do duty en one's hat. ii its
The jewelers , too , are offering many of time H
oW designs In ornamental dress buttene , ii be
These are of opaleecent white pears and in- d at
d cccnt mother of pearl , carved , oybt1etly by ii 1
apanero urists , and then studded with the V ei
s mallest diamonds anti coThod 5101105. At Vin
fiiil
he dry 09115 shops these are Imitated in d i-il
ess exquisite carving and the whoo butcm e ( fe
s set ip bqop of rhinestc.oes or chqrminghy y cr
r arycti tee clrcle3 to taie the place of F
miniature and porcelain buttons. Cameas hi Ut
h ave come to this surface In the search tor c Ut ,
omething novel. Just bow such lovely e- a ro
ec as a eylph-lIke , anow-wbito Cares on n p lal
oft blue ground of translucent atuete are ate ml
uived at it is br1 to xpisin , 'Timeo depend
on their beniitifui tiltIhlig anti contrasts of
colgeingor effects end Are to the eyes bug
wearied b' painted chifta a s-onderful joy and
relief ,
FOR PAI1ASOLS ,
Something simliar in deu'ign is being accom.
hlliaheti for laraaoi handles , though unany
most OnellatItingly iovely stun shades are
lnoMtetl % on simplest curved sticks of yehc
low bamboo' or car1ied red cedar , while a few
have nppeare1l with interesting tnffe of teak
wool carved evidently JU tile east. Another
notion is to eiptmei thQ liandia the exact
shade of the silk that covers.tho ribs and one
Imported beauty , In shot green ailk with dcii-
cab llifes of cream lace outlining each rib ,
had jjie handle encrusted for four inches in
diamonds and a turquoise of goodly proport
tuna aot in the top ,
None of the now" handles are exaggerated
La length , but the novel parasol has its p11k
corer very deeply ooopod out between erery
rib and the eiotion is t lay On a first cover
of brightly flowered silk , Over this is then
tightly sti-etchietl a iccomul one of
't'hiito duchess lace that falls
in a full godct - frill over anti far
below time points of tile gilded parasol bones.
Entraneimig to look upon , but far too fragile
to tempt a discreet Purcllaser.aro the pnrnsols
covered with enc layer of Svis snuslln over
-which , flt intervals ot.flvo Inches , little
puiflngs of cllifton rup , caught dow-n by tufts
of field flowers , These trhiles , for as a iro-
tectioii againsthq sun they flnlluflt to moth-
11mg , are macant to Use nt Into afternoon garden -
den jartics afld drjving in the p.ark.
, NOVEL' hOSIERY.
Tlmo unavoiilabie Scotchi Idalmi has at lent
crept Iflto tIme hosiery dolartment and the
smartest stockings for at hioiuio wear , for
afternoon teas , etc. , show time plaid of the
Caumierons , Dougiasees , orroyal Stuarts.
They are woven in silk anml halo thread aimti
now the fancy of tlmo nlotliSll WOinlIll , when In
all her bali room splendors , is for gorgeousiy
clocked atockings. Stockings with grace.
fimI Ilaitto dragons romlhng up either ankle ,
Or beautiful gold and silver bullion lube era
the desired novelties. Designs like these tro
doti oil (110 richly colored Petunia and capu-
ciflo colored silk hose that \vomnen liaro
agreed to vear with govna of whatever
shade , so that the feet are now clothed 111110-
pendentiy of time prevailing tulle of erie's
toilet.
I3ut color does not dominate everywhere.
hlalldkerchiefs , for instance , are white , nil
white , and tlrO prettle8t of them appear In a
faint tone of cream In very soft batiste.
These are embroidered in tiny Irnints around
the edges and then borjjorcd with a row of
wee crescents , Tire batfo ( mocliiors are
never starched and those of linen have hfoni-
toil initials let into their 'corners , a letter
in three of the cornera anti one's crest in
tIme fo.urth. Anotlter.vpry pretty little hand-
kerchief , for full 'dress , has the four m
hiiuen corners scooped out and deep points
of time finest noint-.applique let in. The linen
squmrea' for everyday imso ore very chaste in
their unblemished whiteness , oiiowing a oar-
row hmenistitciied edge , beyond which Is a
beading only of white embroidery , The
headed stitch also forms one initial letter ,
while the monogram is In conipete ! toiti-
porary seclusion ,
FANCY FANS.
One branch of the Japanese trade will
suffer aeriously this spring , for the now fans
are now all made on the model of those
Wattcau used so charmingly to paint. One
can buy Limo most pcturesquo ! little paper'ca
ones with quaintly gilded stlck and time
tinted paper tops hithograplieti in cunning
colored designs of court ladies and berlbbonod
shepherdessea , There are more expensive
to
ones of silk , well painted and gay with gold
and sliver sequins and one and all these ar
are small , -not - more than six inches to eight
nches long and meant for use rather than pr
ornamentation.
.
Fashiozi Jotcs , , er
Ties an wide as sash ribbon are seen en
oluo tiny bonnet's. dl
White tulle cravats are , popular neck dccI I to
rations for sumnier gowns. ' , ' Lir
Neck rufhlea are enormous anti wIll be very
uch arn in tile early spring.
White taffeta mohair gowns niatiqin. atlor in
tylo nre.cons1dercdvey.-hmJc
Shot mohairs with , bayadere stripes' of I '
hine flowering are one of the late novelties ,
Dainty corsets to match' nilkon petticoats
re a s'Insomo but extravagant caprice.'o
Spangles in needlework are a , now conceit
hat will develop on'aunimer hotel piazzas. ifi
Braided leather Jelts are seen , ut are too
ulky for any hut the very alentlerest waists ,
Black and white dress bonnets , with 1cnty
jewels in the trimming , are especially fash-
nablo this season. ne
m
The French orgsndies are receiving a large ar
hare of tlte superlative adjectives from inir ro
hopperajust how ,
ro
Otioof , the noveltitis in dress trimmings is do
ack sIlk , net , Uecoratcd with an applique of
em bIoidered grass lawn ,
Tbsephino combs in shell are flair. Being rul ris
ort and broad , they are effectiyo only when
oiiaIr Is worn in flat braids a is empire. f an
Tile round 'waist , in endless and elegant I ea
rieties , comes to us again , fresh Ironi s ilO
ris , among typical styles for the spring
d summer seaoona.
a ft
The leading colors for spring capes for t )
nerai wear are black , green , tan , brow
d several itanilsomo shades of blue , th , p re
ver-bluo and marine dyes taking the lead. b ci
Paradise feathers are one of the revivals b ut
fashIon , and they are seen on the larger d oil
ts , falling away froni eIther lde of Limo
ro wn , making the effect of width very p er
paront.
ii Los
B ias ooarf-hike belts favteneti with a buckle c ess
l ending In two shot nds are a late 'novV izi
y. Wltha silk tie to match tlioy.mnke a Ii S
e finish to tita popular shirt waist. , d ali
C orsage bouquets of rpscs are not as popu- a1 tile
as ill former years. tlto favorite mode A
ng ' to carry a great bunch of flowers in ci mu
's arms , no children carry dolls , d un
F ancy pins reflect the modish amusement hi an
f , and the implements of time gamno in II ea
d and silver -ro warn by onthuslast as Ii fte
l as time uninitlaLed , ra
P anama straws are -worn , anti one , very ' raom
ntlly trlmnmned-iias plaitlngs of black and n ad
le tulle itrfnding up 'around tile crown
covering the brim , with a finish 'ofwhite
es and leaven at time back.
F ashion still concentrates all time caprices
trImmings upon tIre corsage. lace , passe-
mutorie , niousseline do sole and fancy rib.
3 are not infrequently employed on one
mnent.
G ray , in tlio lovely soft hIlmt shAde which
, a tinge of pink in it , scorns to be one
the favorIte colors among tire recemitly irim-
ted gowns , but tall , dark amid light blue ,
wn and green are well reprehented.
T he now smootil-faced cloths are very dime
texture , bight in weight , and conio in
rming delicate cobra ; hut tito serviceable
well as stylish dreirace are made of al-
n , canvas and mohair in all the coarse
avea ,
D elta grow narrower and narrower , Tile
d bolt still prijoys modish favor , and sa
n erai bIas tile taste for pasta JeWels be.
ne that the jmiwolod girdle Is now shown
will have a certain vogue.
O no of tue excptlon in millinery Is the
ad-brimmed hint , y1tii a band of velvet
l bandeaux of roses underneath tire brim ,
b unch of black tips ud eiotiier band of
vct around tile crown. This Is tied under
chin With ribbon etrings.
ime wrinkled alcove wIth a medium pure
time top seema to be one of the favorites ,
nearly all sleeves are cut to show tlto
bino of tile Inside of the arm , while the
side seam appears in sonic of the sleeves
the elbow only ,
he floe underwear for the seasons before F
I s fashioned very richly and dxtravagaritiy ,
feta -llk , both plain anti flowered , also'
I , lustrous liberty satin brocades are in
al use , adorned with leagues oi lace loser-
n and crimped frills. r
he linings of garjflrnta era features that
much to the artistic effect as 'well as to
length ot the bill for 'findings. Jacket L. D
ices are invariably gay as to linings , It
to and Dresden bmung used for this pur- pn
R. Capes anti jackets display charimulag cii tic em
of color when the wind blovs , to It
ighly lustrous soft-textured satins , with em or
rty finish in black anti colors , and In cii om
te ] , tttrrod an flowered designs , will be dear
demand for flat , pQinted and round full lya : ar
tii , as vcli a for enlir'o costumes anti j 'JE
cy waIsts. In black brocades of mali , ir 10
cate patterns , for separate skirts , ratin co
cte on buetfous corded surfaces wIll roro i Ick Is
y pcpular , its tr
ashionable skirts are all grecoSulIy full , ree r
they are not restricted to one style of u OA
and one o the latest model. is cut full hii
und the hips and laid in tiiree.inchi box If
M
ts across tlro back immi olcies , beginning pe
either sIde of tite trout breadth , and the itr
plaits are caught lown tmnm1ersieath or
stitched down ton inches troni the walat , eo
t hat ttmor keep their form to the knee.
A returned Iniiortet says that the Inst anti
meet rechierchlo Protluction of modern Inmius. - '
t ry is "polqt lace , into the web of which
1 ' rench briiliants are woven , This costly tie.
t ame will be omit of the reach of moat persons.
So far , it tIM culy been ic'ti for bonnet
c roule and for covering lane. Ono great
c outurier. however , has ordered the entire
t rimming for a superb gown to be luCtie of
i t , to surpass all robcs , past , Itretent or
f uture. "
Flowora of mous'eilno do soio are among
t he novelties for tile garniture of spring hats.
T ijeno flowers are very effective , time pretty
material lending a delightful softfle.'a anti
t ransparency to the leaves vhicli compose
t he 'blossoms , For e. yellow owl black hat
a re , than ) ' vctaietl roses of deep Tag-
g erino ) 'CIIOW.tillletl With black , Even stich
a llounalies as green roses are limIt offensive
wlioli imiado of niouss1ino do POlO.
Odd color inixturemi appear tiniong aemo of
t he models for summer gowuis. Soiiio are
d ainty and attractive , othots incongruous coil
p ositively tugly. Jtuiiong tllo fernier i a very
-p retty dress of soft cern bntite , triinmnd on
t he bodice with cern Inca Insertion alit ! oh ( lie
s kirt seanie with 'untrower ineortion , and
a oniall lace-edged rOche of the batipto '
a roiuilmi the hem , Instead of.beilg. ! lined with
s eru silk , the entire gown is imiade tip over
s oft rose-pink taffeta. Tiii prodllcos a faint
e liot effect of rose huti cent tilat is charming ,
i'i'iiihitii&e ttlti'I ,
rcitduchees Mprla Theresa 91 Auetrla It
I s eaid , fences , boxes and rides every ( lay aOl !
i s tlio most athletic wonian In Etit pe.
Couiitcss Cadogan lien just made a thor-
o ugli iIlstlC tlOll of tile hiotanicci 'gardiis at
D ublin , unakilig a study of the flowers and
h othouse plants.
The c'rnpress of Austria , having become
tl iorougitly conversant 'itil Greek under Limo
tt litiOfl of her ilelleneno secretary , lIne now
c oninionceti the study of Hebrew.
Mrs. ifate Chase iprague has starteti a
tr uck farm at EtigewOOti , near \Vau'lilngton ,
a lit ! will slipply'nsimington WOlilul with
v egetables , eggs and imtiitry.
Miss Masrey , daughter of tile poet and
E gyptologist , liai betmi obliged to retire from
h er aecrctaryship In , tre Proobel society to
ai ti in her father's literary labors.
Time countess of Warwick , at Warwick ,
E nglamiti , has established a imoiiio for 'the
su rgical care and treatment ot crippled hia-
ti onts , Silo has endowed tire institution
h andsomely.
Ada fleltait lies a lovely home in Nos' York
C ity , her mtie'ic room being ctUipletl witlt a
fu ll pipe organ , a grillid Iliano , a harp ant !
andolins galQre. And yet ohio docet lint a1l
he rself musical.
Mrs , John Jacob Astor and her friend , Mrs.
Se ward Webb , are both expert hunters , and
tr amp oil for ninny nil liour's shooting witilo
at thro Webb country place in Now Englaild.
Miss Zola St. Louis , in the wiltis of Texas ,
is famous as a iluntress itnd a taxidermist ,
Si nco tire hunting season opened last fail she
hit s shot tweuty-thlree deer , five blackl bears ,
se ven wildcats , three wolves and one luoun-
la in lion.
Tire report of the countess of Dllfferin's
me dical funti SlIOWS that- during the year jlrst
clo sing 1,000,000 women have received mcdi-
ca l treatment , and tbo buildings now sup.
po rted by the fund are valued at 2,000,000
pees. 1
Tile duchcs of York lies just been invited
take tIle presidency of the Ladles' auxifi-
y of the London Lifeboat association. Fif-
tee n titled women have been nominated for
esidents of district organizations of the
La dies' auxiliary.
Another new woman drops the reina of gov-
nnient , Miss Olga Pleric , tThputy registrar , y
f deeds In McPherscri cowity S. D. , and
nirman of a baclrcior club , left her imosition
marry an Iowa man. Iio vaid she was
ed of the now woman experleilcC.
Mrs. Cierelruld is taking. a great deal of
u tdoor exercise tleso days , and cah be seen
, tile .ntreet almpst any , nfernoon-ueually
tie no-talclng bc.r ' constitulcnal. She \y ik
'ap idiy , w'it icug , swinging strieand wears
iea vy , broadi bottomed , low-heeled shoes.
Mrs. Jolia m1' . Muon , president of the
Vo man'e Legal Educational Society of New
'o r1c City , wIll preside amid confer tiip car-
cates upon tile fifty graduates law at
lie closing exercises of the Now York uni-
el wity , April 29. The women will appeai In
ca demilical cap and gown.
L ady hi'ury Somerset is adtlresslng lhrge
etillga in tIle interest of , tile iiidustrial
ine Arsociatlon forInebriate Women , These
m itomnes are sanltarlunw for wealthy
meo. TherOara Other ilomnes 'for working
memi and nrrangcments are being corn-
ted 'for free patients.
C olcnel Fred D , Grant's daughter , Mis
ia Dent Grant , is lIar fathers political sid-
er , and sire knows as much about political
ou ditions in Now York as any one. lra is
jiliar with tile doings of various 'district
tiers , Informatiob which may be of value
uld her father over run for afflee ,
P rincess Maud of Wales has decided that
er irer marriage with Pruice ! Charles of 7
en niark ohe and her hu.sband will reside at
Pi ) lOY hall , Norfolk. A county wedding -
aent is being planned , time nubseriptions
ng limited to $16 from each individual.
the whole will represent thousande of
ers. t )
M iss KatlleriflO Wcstendorf is general su-
Iitolithetlt of the Jewish Associated Olsari-
of'Chicago , which shin manages very sue.
fully , hlVr experience gained-while super-
mIg the Aseociateti Charities of M'n'icapo-
lisa proved most valuable , and 11cr rash-
ce now at thro hull house , Chicago , en-
s her all tie better to perform her duties ,
rchducilesC Maria Theresa of Austria is
lating Sandow. She practices with largo
ib.bellri 'and can lift a man with ono
d , Shio Is mid , on one occasion , 'wiroa a
vy iron -column - fell on a man1 to lIaVe I'
d It bight enough to enable him to be
wn from under. Silo is a delicato-iooking
an of 34 , wife of Archduke Karl Steplrun.
mother at five children ,
,
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1Lz. '
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.4'
Y ALE
I
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lAIR , - It
ONIC
IE3 AND OENLEMIN1
affords me great pleasure 'to call iii. stUn-
of tlio pubilo to Yale's Excelsior Hair 'roiilo ,
li is time tint anti only remedy knewn to
litry which positively turn , &rmly hair liacic
s original color without mlye. It lies tone on
tt that lime. LI. Ynlb-'wonti'arfui wonlemi
ist-hmse loads this xilodj Valuable of all
ical diimcoverlei. Lime. Yale personally en-
es its action and gives Itmo pUbIlo b5r solehmn ' /
anteo IliaC It lies beefl tested In every Con-
ble way and lifts proved itself to it ths
x hair IpciflO. ii iSTO1B liAlli FAI.L.
Imtnethiatviy anti creates a luxumious gmattiti.
ntains no Injurious ingretiint. h'iiyiCis
theraIts invited to coals-s. it. ] e Is not
y or greesyl on the contrary , it makes his
soft , youthful , flurry end keepe it In curl.
gentlemen anti iatltON With hair a.lithe gr
ke.t iray. t-ntirely IUY and with hA
T)0 , it is speclflcimliy recommt'udcd.
drug isti sill ii it _ . l'tIv , ; I.Q ,
anybody offers a submitiluto , ebun ( hem.
E. Li , YitLit , Ut'aith itn6 'Cotnpl.xioii
ciaiist Yale 'Funipi. of hissutjr , 1CC Sttl
est , cIticig.