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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 24, 1895)
THE OMAHA DAILY JJEEtBUNDAT , NOVEMBER C4 , 18.05. SI j WOMAN'S DOMAIN. rnE5Cii FASHIONS. for Dlnnrr nntl Ilnll Continue * Oilier Novell Ira. PAIUS , Nov. 14. The new evening gowns torrow their Inspiration from Marie An tolnetto and pompadour themes. They do not copy thcs styles literally , which woul < give the reunions too much of an lr o being costume balls , but they suggest then in detail. Thus when the bodice Is drapci with a flchu this makes a Marie Antoinette gown , and when there Is a square decollete with rovers running from the top of the shoulder to the point of the waist , with the skirl full at top and gathered nt the hips this Is a pompadour gow'n. ' In both these old styles the slcevo was close nt the top am widened to the elbow , where It ended with a rufile ; but the sleeve actually being worn Is for dinner gowns draped to the elbow nd caught Into n band with a fall of lace nnd for ball gowns shorter and formcc equally of drnplngs , of overlapping ruflles putts , lace and bows. The skirt of some gowns opens In fron over a petticoat In the pompadour manner and this Is particularly to bo remarked o dinner gowns. 'In this case there Is fullness nt the top , arranged In gathers over the hips but the front breadth Is flat. In the ok Rtyle the petticoat was sometimes of con trasting material , but at present such con trast looks a little extreme. Flowered silks and satins are being very much used for these gowns , as are also plain fiatlns. Velvet plain nnd flowered Is used for dinner gowns. The trimmings are lace artificial flowers and ribbon bows. Whole cascades of bows cover the chemisette fruat after the pompadour manner , and these bows afford centers for placing Jewels. The skirts are short and very wide. SUOOBSTIVB MODBLS. Among the dinner gowns the following are good , suggestive models : One of violet faille has the skirt faced ten Inches deep with Tlolet plush , and this facing Is covered with parallel row * of narrow gold braid that sink part way Into the plush with very rich ef fect. The bodice slightly pointed In front Is open from the point up to the shoulders , with straight rovers , over the chemisette of the plush , the whole forming a square decollete. The plush revcrs are crossed their whole lencth with lines of cold braid : ribbon bows are on the chemisette and a largo bow ia t the back of * the neck draping the shoulders from armbolo to nrmhole. Violet is being much worn. A black faille has the front of the skirt embroidered down each side with a garland in relict of flowers made In black moussellno do sole crusted with Jet , ending with a bow at the foot. The bodice Is a square , half-low decollete with revers embroidered like the skirt. The sleeves are of moussijllno de sole , very much draped. The gauze embroidery may be replaced " by Jet or Jetted lace. A velvet of black "ground flowered with rose buds has the skirt very full and open over a petticoat of the same gathered on the hip * , and the bodice a square decollete , with Uevcs fltted close to the arm and ending BALL GOWN. at the elbow with two doubled ruffles , the upper one standing out In a widepuff. . A garniture runs around the neck and down each side of the front. The following ball gowns arc equally cor rect models : The first la of del blue silk in a broche stripe flowered with rose. The skirt lias the front breadth draped with blue mous- fiellno de sole , caught here and there with ptnlc flowers. The pointed bodice has a low round decollete draped with a flchu of the Tnottsscllne knotted on the front with a bunch of 'pink flowers ; draped sleeves of the silk and inousuellno. A white broche flowered Bilk has the skirt trimmed with a lace ruffle put on In zigzag lines and headed with a ruche of the silk. In each angle formed by the zigzag , both above and below , Is placed a small rosette formed of the strip of the silk in small box-plaits , stitched down near each cdgo , and the edges are bound with ribbon This makes a flat trimming some four or more Inches wide that was very much use ( ' in de Pompadour's tlmo and was called the marquise rucli. It Is one of this winter's re vivals. The bodice is draped with lace fas tened with rosettes. KVENINO CLOAKS. Ball and opera cloaks are long , loose- coats With enormous bishop sleeves and a hood or ornamental collar. Some of them have a Wat- teau plait. They are made of pale broche ellk or of velvet ; satin lined and wadded , and are bordered with fur and sometimes have Riilpure and other appliques. In general the simplest are the most elegant. One of pale Kreen broche satin has a collar standing very Jilgh behind In box-plaits , so full as to form a ruche at the back bordered with chinchillas , The. same fur borders the front and sleeves. NEW FRENCH COAT. 'Another ' of brown satin Ins a square collar falling down the back in plaits and revers In front , all faced with cream guipure and bor dered with sable. Sable collar , A.try handsome * one of cream velvet ) > rlnto4 with a caihmcro pattern , has bor der * ot otter. One of cream cloth U faced down etch aid * of the front with brown silk passementerie , all the pattern outlined with fur. Inexpensive and rich looking abort capes lor evening art mtd ot velytteen pruned1 with an all-over cashmere pattern In colors and finished with fur collar and borders. TEA GOWNS AND PEIGNOIRS. The Wattrau plait Is a prominent feature o the pompadour style of dress , and It la being very much used In house neglige. The plal begins part way down the back , with a yoke or a collar above , enriched with appliques Still older fashions , those of the Middle Ages ere also revived , motifs borrowed from the time of the crusades , sometimes from women's dress and sometimes from armor Thus a peignoir ot white flannel cut to fall In loose folds has above the close Italian sleeves long pointed flowing sleeves that fall open from the shoulder and reach nearly to the floor , lost In the folds of the gown , and eve ; this a sort of scapulalre ot red cloth , lined OPERA CLOAK. to give It enough body with white , fastened at one point on each shoulder and hanging straight down back and front , and dotted all over with dragons , embroidered In white. Red cloth epaulettes fall over the sleeves. This gown was made by Felix. Another peignoir of white flannel ls > made with a Wattoau plait , and over It mauve flannel forms a yoke , and extends down the middle of the front In a wide strip to the foot , and down the middle of the back In the same way , forming the top of the Watteau plait , nnd the yoke and the strips arc cut In one piece , lined and laid upon the gown , and all the edges of the mauve are scalloped and bound with ribbon. Epaulettes carry the color out over the sleeves. This design was made at the same house. A very pretty novelty for tea gowns Is velveteen , printed with a cashmere pattern In colors. It U to be had with various colored grounds and is Inexpensive. Of English nakc , It is being used In quantities by the Paris dressmakers. Fur borders are the only trimmings needed , though plain velvet or satin may be put with it for contrast. ADA BACHB CONE. THE HUNTING SEASON. Sporta in Wlilcli Prominent American WOIIK.-TI IlllllllKC. Hunting , In the English sjnse of following the hounds , must from the very nature ot the sport bo confined to the wealthy classes. It s Impossible to have crosa-country riding without club houses , kennels , and blooded lorses , hence the delight of the "sound of the horn on a windy morning" and the becoming glow of the pink coat are not for the woman of modern means. But a few days' or weeks' hooting can be had with but little outlay , and the presence of the woman who hunts In earnest need not be feared by the male nicm- icrs of any party. The modern Diana carries lor own gun and ammunition , and If she wants to rest she does not expect some man who Is taking aim to rush up with a camp stool. She does not require her escort to fur nish her a vinaigrette as often as she pulls the trigger , neither does she carry her gun pointed at him while she attracts his some what nervous attention to the scenery. Probably pome of the truest sportswomen In America are to be found south of the Mason nnd Dlxon line , where for generations women liavo been bred to the saddle and use of fire arms. Many a southern woman who has won the brush with her Kentucky thoroughbrei in an afternoon's hunt will dance like a fairy In the evening and bo up before breakfast the next morning for a tramp after partridge or quail. But there are sportswomen In the north. Ono of the best of those In New York so ciety Is Mrs. John Jacob Astor , familiarly known as Mrs. "Jack" Astor. From a child she has been trained to outdoor sports. She drives , rides , rows , swims , plays golf and can even manage a yacht In squally weather. Bui there Is not ono among her many accomplish ments In which she shows greater proficiency than In her management ot rifle and shotgun Mrs. Astor's shooting costume Is perfectly simple nnd sensible In every detail. The short skirt nnd hunting Jacket are made of brown velveteen. Her hat Is a soft fell alpine , and the long legging worn are ol buckskin. Clad In this fetching suit , with gamebag and gun over her shoulder , she Is as distinctly bewitching as when she ap pears later In the season In Doucet gowns sparkling with the famous family diamonds. Mrs. Astor's Intimate friend. Mrs. Webb , who Is one of W. H. Vandcrbllt's daughters , Is another famous nlmrod. It Is her delight to send bags of game to her less athletic city friends. Much of her tlmo , both winter and summer. Is spent In Vermont at her lovely country home , Shelburne Farms. It has been said that she If as familiar with the game laws of the United States as with the social code. Society boasts many feminine crack shots besides these. Mrs. Havemeyer , Mrs. Au gust Belmont , Mrs. Valentine Molt , and Mrs. uiiu uru uu experts in me maiiiy spore. Mrs. Alfred Scaton and Mrs. Lanfear Nor- rle , who were the Misses Barbey before their marriages , are both capital shots. They are exceptionally tall , handsome women , who are fond of all outdoor sports. BEST SHOT IN THE WEST. The crack shot among women west of the Mississippi is unquestionably Mrs. J. B. Yardsley. Her husband , who went west some eight years ago In quest of health , Is an ardent sportsman. Mrs. Yardsley Is espe cially clover hi following the track of wild animals through forest and dense under brush. She followed her mountain lion for four days through an evergreen forest car peted with pine needles. And a more effect ual disguise for an animal trail It would be unnecessary to Imagine. Mrs. Yardaley's favorite costume for trampIng - Ing about over rough country Is of buckskin. It does not wear out. rip , tear or grow old- fashioned. The jacket Is scant , the skirt abort , and the trousers neat and clow-fitting , like a man's. The skirt Is not regarded as essential when thera Is much underbrush to be clambered through. Her legglna are of leather and her shoes are stout , hob-nailed affairs after the farmer boy style. The great essential to tha woman who Is shooting , not for a fad , but earnestly , as men do , Is u practical , thoroughly comfortable hunting costume. A costume without bones , steels , or haircloth , too strong to be torn by brambles , and too short to stiinibl ; over when the eye Is on a bird rather than on a bowlder. The most serviceable material for such a uult Is corduroy or velveteen. Tweed Is much used and very stylish , but less durable. The two most practical designs yet offered are the loose blouse and ihort cklrt and the Norfolk jacket , with well-fitting bloomers. A golf cape ot stout material with an ad justable hood U an excellent addition for stormy mornings. Th proper bat la soft and light , with brim nongh to shade the eyes when taking aim , The ordinary bi cycle cap , with deep vizor , could not be Im proved upon. The legglin , or boot-topi , which must reach the knee , should be , if one essays to be correct , of the tame ( bade at the skirt. Nothing could be more startling , especially in region * where th abort iklrt it yet a lur- irlie , than to unexpectedly come upon a ircinaa wliosi uu-ooler d legglna stand out In bold contrast to a navy blue skirt or whose Jet black boot-tops ore painfully conspicuous against a tan or gray gown. The cartridge belt Is also much neater In appearance If harmonizing rather than contrasting with the suit. suit.The The boot should be waterproof. Leather cured by the Indian process Is soft , pliable , light and Impervious to tfater. Such hunting boots , with electric soles , may be bought ut any of the city dealer * , and they are not expensive. To bo able to Hramp comfortably any number of hours boots should be worn square at the toes , snuc nt the ankle and with a broad , low heel. The woman who Intends to do much hard tramping or climb- Ins should see that her skirt Is neatly faced with soft leather. This not only protects the skirt , but keeps It from sagging bctweeu ths knees and rendering n long step difficult. Pockets have not yet betn mentioned. They should be numerous and made capable of holding anything , from a box of cartridges to nn extra supply of fishing tackle. A present of a flno shotgun or n neat rifle Is already considered nn appropriate gift front mil tor to lady , says the New York World. And It behooves the young man to be judicious In his selection and not make him self ridiculous by supposing that his sweet heart Is not as well posted as himself as to the relative merits of firearms. Indeed a gun rack Is the latest fad of the outdoor girl. She likes to select from o variety of fire arms , although In many cases she Ins gone beyond the shotgun period and brings down even her small game with a rlflo. Filling her own shells Is an accomplishment which the present society girl docs not rank second to designing her own embroidery pattern cr composing a sonata. Although the Idea of club' shooting Is very popular among the fair Dianas out of shooting season , the theory that it la necessary to keep up practice Is a fallacy. After once experienc ing the thrill of a genuine hunting season the hand Is not apt to lose Its cunning or the eye Its keenness of vision. FIXGEHS AS EYKS AND EAIl.V tlrlrn Kdlrr'n Method of FeplltiK Oilier 1'cnplc'n ISnintlntin. A great deal has been written about Helen Keller , the blind and deaf girl who has been taught to speak by the special sense develop mcnt. She Is now completing her education In a private school for the deaf In New' York City , where the principal has been devoting most of his attention to cultivating the not Inconsiderable vocal ability with which this wonderful child Is endowed. His efforts have met with great success. Placing her lingers on the throat of a singer she Is able to follow notes covering two octaves with her "own voice that Is , she sings synchronously with her Instructor. The only difference between her voice and that of a normal person Is In Its resonant qualities. So acutely developed han. her sense of touch become that by plac ing her hand upon the frame of a piano she can distinguish between two notes not more than half a tone apart. The principal of the school recently said that the mind of Helen Keller , owing to the special efforts which had been made to educate her , was far more finely developed than that of any girl of her age that he knew. Ho nlao spoke of the remark able development of her senses of taste and smell. He said that she was always con scious of the presence of another person , no matter how noiseless his entrance Into the com In which she was at the tlmo being , le explained this knowledge by the aciite- nsss of her sense of smell. She Is able to letect presence by odor. He said her sense of taste was very pronounced , and that she could not bo persuaded to take food which she disliked. Ho said something else about her sense of ouch which seems miraculous. Dy placing icr hand on the face of n visitor "Die is able o detect shades of emotion wlilch the nor mal human eye absolutely falls to dlstln- ; ulsh. In other words , her sensp of touch Is lovoloped to such nn exquisite extent as to onn a. better eye for her than arc yours ermine mine for us. And , what Is more , she forms udgments of character" by this "touch-sight. " This unusual development of tha senses of touch , smell and taste In Mia ) Keller recalls to' my in I ml the famous Janus Mitchell , whoso case is reported In medical works. This boy was born blind and doit and lost , very early In life , the- liner qualities of his sonya of touch , as well us of his ceiurnl sen sation. Dut to make up for this universal affliction ho developed In time a "Ilalr" equal In many respects to that possessed by the brst bred of pointers and setters. Each per son that he met was Individualized In his memory by odor , and he was able to draw sharp distinctions In this way between va rious people. Nay , more , from tliolr odor It became possible for him to form cxctllent opinions of their respective characters. WOMAN Irifiif mUSTIlIES. Her Ailruncu Mrnniireil by Ofllclnl StlltlNllCH. The incursion of woman into tha wage- earning world and the extent to which she lias displaced man , says the Chicago Times- Herald , has EO far been a subject for conjee- lural theorizing , predicated upon what we enow of her attainments In the past and what we tbtnlc we know oj her physical and men tal possibilities. What woman is able to accomplish In the ndus'.rles has now almoU gone beyond the domain of conjecture , however , and yet there i no reason to think that she has more than tinted at the possibilities of her mind and nergy when applied to tbo problems that lave engaged the activities of men for centu ries past. That man has made" " a dismal fail ure of a great many tlilnpa that concern the welfare of the race there Is no doubt , and it would seem that about all the modern woman atks Is to be let alone and she will solve the iroblem of her-Industrial Independence In due line. Ai to what she hag already done In the arts and Industries some figures recently given out by Labor Commissioner Carroll I ) . Vrlght are significant. The Industrial re- urni from the last Massachusetts census ho v that out of 394,581 people employed In manufactures 112,7(2 ire women. Twelve per peat at all employed by the gavtrntutnt , 42.28 ; 13th and Farnam. K witting ; - - * d'Bf _ 1200 Suits and Overcoats sold this week The sizes are broken but the prices are smashed Every article , thread , garment and fixture goes at one-half to one-third its value For next month "Ends the Equity. " Here are the troublesome prices that strike terror to the trade : Overcoats Fine Suits Furnishings Pine Kngllsh k'crsoy Overcoats , fly Look nttlil.s Heavy flno threaded merino Underwear Ton Hlgh-Hmdo ( Inrmcnts front , silk velvet collar , latest length , wear , 75c quality for cut to only H. s. & M. 37c .OO All our regular line of Hart , Schaft- nor & Murk line Men's Suits go In this sale ( it less than half the old price. AH our r > 0c and 7 > e Leather Mittens , Ulsters Fine cutaway nnd Prince Albert Suits , warm lined , go In one lot nt , choice in fancy worsted , clay worsted , trimmed Heavy frieze , beaver ami shctlands , : ind tailored cental to ilnest merchant ft never sold for less than $10.00 , cut now tailored garments. All go every suit 25c to oiiyy | in the store choice of any suit In three lots-worth up to $20.00 , Wilson Bros. ' flue $1.25 White Shirts , 5.OO , $7 , what are left go nt Pants 75c Suits for Stout Men 0,000 pairs men's Pants , all colors , At the thinnest prices ever known In hair Hues , neat stripes and solid color , Omaha. nil go at 70c to Suits for jihort , stout men blpr. stout Fixtures for Sale "u * men and all sorts of heavy built fel lows Suits in sacks and cutaways 2.OO Suits that sold up to $20.00. and not ono Six fine Show Cases. 40 . for less than $13,50 , all in throe lots nt -v black walnut Counters. One * fine tailor's Sewing Machine , Hats Singer three display pattern ; All our 51..TO and $2.00 Fedorn and Stlft Hats go now for , choice cases , a lot of window fixtures , choice75c All for sale very cheap. Call at store. TY CLOTHING CO. 10 Bound to go out of Business , Streets , t * * 3 " J fl M w * * * f"V ? t > ? 5T ! " piSSlfi - ® 't , ier cent of all In tie | various professions. 11.00 per cent of all in trade , 29 pr cent ot ill engaged In transportation , and 52 per :2iit : of all engaged In agriculture are women. Phe-latest report ofL'tlie federalcommls - iloticr of education Show's ttut 65.50 per cent WHITE imOCIIB FLOWERED SILK AND BLACK DINNER GOWN. cf all tlu- teachers In Hie country are women. In tbo matter of compensation It In liardly probable tlmt women will attain the waga utKiidard of men for eome tlmo yet , although In the higher grades of skilled service- , such a.3 the artistic and musical professions , she quite often receive ; ) as much pay as men. nut In the purely Industrial pursuits ehp Is handicapped by lack of physical endurance as well as Inadequate mental diulpment. This IB not because of any lack of mental capacity or natural tdlcnf' , but becausa she usually cherlshea the hope that her work may some time be InttTri/iUtd by matrimony , wherein the highest function of tier nature may find expression , iind" hunco slio seldom dedicates herself to a 'tra'fU or profession as a life work. "Jl Time was when womih > 3could look forward to but two destinies , nfhrrlirgo and the grave. The close of the preneilt decade will find her In a position of DlinoliilYcfhJnstrlal independ ence , where , If compelled'to forego the eacred and higher duties of1 maternity , she may enter the industrial arena 'i frte and eman cipated competitor with mail for tbo rewards of skillful endeavor , ' "J I'Oll HAMIS eAXI > IIK.U ) . Simple MotliiMl for i'4'r\ulliij : Cliiipiii'i ) HiiiiilH unit Fnll 'iiK llnlr. At this season ot the year U Is almost Im possible to keep the hands from chapping and looking red when they are In water ai fre quently as It Is necessary to have them , Uelow Is given a most excellent recipe for making Laurellne , which Is simply and easily prepared at home , and very Inexpensive. Two ounces of glycerine , ono ounce of a- | cotiol , one-fourth ounca of gum tragacanth , one-fourth to one-half ounce of rose water or violet perfume , one pint of water , soak the iMgacanth In the water two day * , then etrnln and add tha other ingredient * , Cut the glycerine with the alcohol. If It should be lee thick add a little more water and alcohol. Dottle and it In ready for use. In very cold wettber It It is too thick to pour easily beat It by Betting over the register or In a bowl of hot water. Whll * most people ( uiuU tig ) belter for the scalp thnji a thorough brushing ot the hair morning nnd night , many will not persist In this and are continually asking what will make the hair come In when It Is fast falling out. Many of the best hair dressers and barbero are recommending rub bing pure crease lu very thoroughly every night. In several Instances ) tills has proven very effectual and a new growth of short and strong fuzz all over the head has been the result. Slany children and Mme of an older growth are severely troubled with dandruff In the scalp , which always makes the head nnd hair look dirty. This can bo removed by rubbing rmro grease In every other night and In the morning following wanh thoroughly with tar swap. FnNlilouotos. . Gayly colored nnd decorated round hats arc mid In Immense numbers. White , pearl and cream tinted lace gloves are still the correct thing for evening wear except when the long gloves are needed , and thsn they are seude. Flowers made of soft tiny feither tips and clipped nnd Jetted stiff plumage are popular , especially In black , and for useful no less than for smart hat trimmings they are de- i-Irable. Velvet Is the chosen fabric of elaborate capes for autumn and early 'winter UB , yet they ara oftsn ya heavily trimmed that this beautiful material serves only as a back ground. Plaids are favorites of girls who do not object to having a touch of bright color In their costiimep. Uoth the HtrnlRht bows ami four-ln-iands ; are worn In plaid surah. A new way ot making nn effective garniture for a bonnet or hat Is to place a handsome Dhadcd velvet ( lower In the center of a soft looDa rosette made of chiffon In corresponding or contracting colors. Many of the new toilets for ovenlng wear show the chiffon-trimmed bodlco llhc.-ally decorated with llowers , cnryBanthemuins and spicy carnations , neither of wlilch quickly wither , being favorite blossoms. Now fern dishes for the center ot the din ner table are of delft nnd exceedingly petty. : There are new Jardinieres also of this fash ionable pottery , which In no small wiy add to the attractiveness of the "housebeautlful. " Young men of six have foot ball , bicycle and golf eulta Just Ilko their college brothers , though they do wear Tarn o'Shantor hats with a quill at the side and velvet Ureas suits with a frilled embroidery shirt. Turquoise blue and the new geranium pink are tno llgnt colors most useu lor couar band ? , belts , and touches of color en light gowns with lace waists , and on evening lu'ts , which are larger than they were Inst year and do not spread out In such an exaggerated manner. Chinchilla will bo ono of the most fashion able furs of tbo winter. The fact has al ready raised tha price of It conslder.ibly. Some women prefer chinchilla to all other fur , bucaus ? , as alleged , It Is Impossible to auccessfully Imitate U. Therefore , it can never be "common. " Some of the newest ribbons are woven In patterns called the "Spanlfh , " or gypsy. The brilliant mixtures chiefly prevail. Theue ribbons bens are decidedly fashionable , but scarcely pretty ; the device * and colorings are very gay , but cruder and more striking than the dainty Dresden and Pompadour ribbons. Buttons either very small or very large are a distinct feature of trimming on the latest gowns , and Persian lamb revers fastened down by glittering paste buttons make a gown look very smart. "Watteau" buttons , all roses and briers , are one of the favorite ftyloa ; and still another kind , made ot vegetable Ivory , are a good choice out ot the many. Among the ties which find a resting-place In the tallormade elrl's severe and correct tie box IE a long band of black satin. It Is about an Inch and a quarter wide nnd lined with some heavy material , wiilch gives It "body. " U passes twlco about the tailor- made , girl's high , stiff collar and ties in the Btlftest possible bow. Many ladles now feel grateful for the li cense allowed them In the matter of bodlcca , With the plainest skirt any cue wearing eiicli a loVely confection of silk , lace and chiffon as Is now possible could hardly fall to fc l herself sufficiently well dresecd , The picturesque mode of finishing a bodlco with a Marie Antoinette flchu 1s much affected Just now. The very large loops and bows so long at tached to the neckband * of our gowns are dlicarded by fashion leaden * , although still very popular with the majority of well-dressed women. Tha tock tie , with cndi falling either from the back or directly under the cUlu , replace ! , with tbo former minority , a fashion that has maintained for a long time an extraordinary popularity. A stylish traveling cloak made of water proof cloth of a dark green phado la finished with a cape which can be worn separately when desired. The garment Itself is cut re- dlngoto fashion , with box plcattIn the skirt outlined with a strapped band , the cap : being similarly finished. The full sleeve ? have mus keteer cuffs bordered with a strapped band , and the hood Is lined with Tartan silk. The prettiest school dresses for small girls this year are made of plaid novelty goods. The little skirts nro full , there are baby waist ? and the frock Is worn' with a guimpc. Kor afternoon wear white pique collars cut In tabs are worn with these dresses. They fall over the waist of the gown In bertha fashion. The material Is generally seen hav ing a dark background , with the plaid design woven In bright threads. The prevalence of whlto millinery whlto velvet , white chnillle , cream white French felt , white satin bordered with sable , etc. Is novloubt due to the fact that white is so extensively used to trim fashionable gowns. The small Dutch bonnet for theater wear ami the Marie Stuart , each made of white satin and narrowly edged with dark fur. arc charming frames for a piquant face ; but for largo features their size Is Insdequate and serves to throw them Into undesirable prominence. No I OH. Ilosa Bonheur recently entertained Buf falo * BIU'i ! Indians at her beautiful place In the Hols dr Bologne. She has made sev eral studies of the aborigines and their ponies , and likes them both Immensely. Once a princess always a princess , That Is tlisr rule that obtains under a monarchy. That accounts for the distinguished attention that U now being accorded to the Princess ICalulanl of Hawaii , In London. Queen Victoria once wrote several verses which were sent to a publisher under a nom do plume , and were promptly returned "with thanks. " Her majesty's next literary venture came out with a full .regalia of royal and Im perial titles. Mclba has been proclaimed by a Chicago paper as the successor of Pattl , though the diva ot Cralg-y-Nos has not yet Intimated that she proposes to relinquish her niantlo. Melba lo all right , but she can't edge Mine. XIcollul off the lyric stage. John Strange Winter , the novelist , hao Just made her appearance as a song writer , hav ing written a school rong called "The Prin cess of the Poor , " which has been Pet to music by Lester Carow. It wan written and composed ao an expression of loyalty to the ducheas of York , who has accepted a copy. Mrs. Frank Leslie , looking as young and handsome as she did twenty years ago , has returned to London from her pleasant tour In Germany. Mrs. Leslie has retired tem porarily from her many popular publications In order to give herself a prolonged holiday , which the state of her health demanded , She will probably return to New Vork this month. Mlua Klngsley , the daughter of the late Charles Klngsley , who Is coming to this country on a lecturing tour this winter , Is an authority on modern French art , and her lectures will be mainly on that subject , She received a few years ago a decoration from tbo French government for a paper on the peasant painters and the landscape paint ers of the Ilarblzon school , Mr a. Mary Scott Itowland , who has been spending the past season In London , where she dispensed lavish hospitality , especially to members of th operatic and dramatic pro fession , had a ploamnt surprise not long ago , when a group of friends , headed by 1'attl , Langtry and. Melba , presented her with a tuperb gold medal and pin set In diimonds , pearls , rubles and emeralds. It Is rumored that Slgnora Duse Is writing an Italian romance , which will be put Into English by Miss Lawrence , Alma-Tadema. Tha distinguished actress and the distin guished painter's daughter are warm friends , and if it be true that Slunora Dute Is writ ing a romance , there Is no rcuson to doubt that MUs Alma-Tadema will "Kngllsh It , " as the slang goes. Queen Marghcrlta of Italy holds the strict est Catholic views as to the nullity of both civil marriage and divorce. At the tlmo when Slg. Crlspl first was In power , not only were his two divorced wives still living , but also Donna Llna's divorced husband. Whe > n at last Queen Margherlta gave way to the pressure put on her to admit Donnn Llna to court , she did o In these words : "Very well ! Tell Qlg. Crlipl I will receive his wife , but I will receive only one of them , and it must always be the same one ! " The London. Trilby , Miss Dorothea Dalrd , wears A r rely beautiful drts * In the concert EDUCATIONAL. NEW YOniC , N. Y. , 11 Wont HtHli St. ' THE JOCOTOT SO1IOOI , ( adj. Central I'arlc ) Offi-re a DELIGHTFUL I1OMK AND CHAI'EIl. O.VAGi : to yoniiK Indies drnlrous of taking special courses. TliorouKli collrglato preparation. Music , Art , I.aiiKUOKrs. Mile. L'romcnt ( for merly wltli Sirs. Slyvnmis HccJJ , Sirs , Chue. Leslie Morgan , Principals. on oJI 5ocit > l * occasions You cannot j ) ' fo the operw [ without § dinin whiff of ( RowK ThE FASHIOMABLE PERKUME. Flowery , refreshing. For sale by druddisrs only. IMPERIALCnOWN PERFUMERY CO , SAIftT LOUIS. f MEYER BROTHERS DRUG CO..AGEHTA AVEDDIMC BELUS Two new7 \PEACHBLOW.j \ odors. . _ " ' 'Ni-w Every vr Breakfast ' will be a source of pleasure and health if you eat cakes made of / Wright's BuckWheat - Wheat It's positively unadulterated and makes the best Cakes you ever ate. At Your Grocer's , scene , wtipro ehe Is brought face to face nftor many year * with her three admirers ot the Latin Quarter. It Is of the finest whlto crepe , hanging In One pleats from throat to licin. A splendid scarf ot cloth of gold , richly jotvelrd , falls from each shoulder , where It la clasped with a largo diamond buckle. At the back , where It lu draped from the shoul der ? , falls a t < oft whlto train , upon which gold ornaments are applique In a beautiful design. The- hem of the train in edged with gold galen , Incrustcd with emeralds and rubles. Trilby wears upon her lovely golden- brown hair a golden diadem , with three elars , that rlso above the brow. The Archducho * ! Marie Annunzlata of Aus tria , on assuming the ofllco of abbeui , receive * a troueuu ilko that of a bride. The gala toilets are In ( ho tendtre&t colora. Bfcu drives to church In a carriage with six pair * ot horses ; her mother follows In a carriage and four. The toilet ot the archduchess for the ceremony ID a b'lack silk dresa with a one train , and a black mantle , trimmed with ermlno. Across her botom sb wears a gold-edged whlto moire ribbon , lo which (9 ( attached a gold medal bearing on ono sldo .he Image of the Immaculate Virgin , and on the other the Initials of the founder of the order. The ring , ducal crown , and crozler will be handed to the new abbett. The crozler lu glided and richly set with diamonds mends in the year 1309 It wan given by the Hungarian queen Jutta to Wenzel , king ot Uobctnla , for til * fitter , Kunlgunde ,