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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 27, 1895)
- - - - - _ - - - - - - - - - - - - , - to TUE OMAnA ! DAIJ.JY flJE : SUNIAYOC't'OflEit _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ n _ _ 27. 180 : ; . 11 U n. , , r@1 riM _ . I ' 15 ! - - . . I . WOMAN'S DOMAIN. . , : I (1.&JI IWmJ.@if J I - _ I . 1 V1tINC1L P.tSI11OS. ItrlduJ Slci p Inl Inrocnece\ for the Winter. PAIS , Ocl. 12.-1 I I nll that the fu- Ing Dklrl p fist because It gIves a look of youth to the flguro. Clearly It \ charming . lng , charming D another will be when ) It rather find the maIn comes ; though I bad fnd xplanaton cf Its youthfulness In Its pronle In the outlines that converge upwards 80 rapidly nl to make the eye believe that the , wakt Is small. These line ! , so poslve : , cause . . , . . the eye to 109 all notion of the figure beneath , and whtther the figure Is old or young Iocs not appear. This Icem9 to bo the secret ; ale this aim to produce a smal waist has been that alt other drew that has gone befor ? , where the cud hu been reached 'y 1 other means. When fashIon Is for a tklrl full at the top ' then the budlco II depended upon to glvo' the small waist. Then the bodice I tight and smooth and sharply pointed , and cuts tar down Into the skirt , r as to make the wait 1ok I some halt as long agaIn a It Is by naturo. Dress was thus cut In Marie Antolnele'a time , and has been so cut In our own not very long 'go. But when the bodice II 1 round , then the skirt , wIth the outlInes It has today , takes the responsibility for the waist ; and whpn the bodice Is not only round , hut a full blole , there Is an enhanced charge put upon the skirt , which makez' It flare Lil1 more at the edges. Anti this alternation - ternaton between bodice and skirt has been going on ever cluce Eleanor of Caste , drtuel In round bodice , huge sleeves and a flaring skirt with very much the same outline as the drePA at today , came to France to be the wife o Francis 1. which Is to say ever since French dress became an art. With this principle In mind , one may venture to prJlct that the godet skirt , or one similar In prone , wi be worn until the time comes for a change In the bodice As yet there has appeared no very credible llbm oC a tura In the \ heel. DOUDTFUL CHANGES. The movement for draping was startcd last year by one or two great dressmakers whose fortUne was made by draped gowna at the time uC the empire anll that naturally thprefore regard them with reminiscent favor. 1Iut dress Is not ruled today by a dress. naker'e souvenln' makera 'fhero Is talk also at princess gowns , and certain ones are , In fact , being worn Over these , too , the dressmakers are Fangulne. A new style Is fO ardently Ileslred For my- leU , I believe lees In them lS an established revival than In the oven'klrts , and for the practical reason , among others , that It Is 10 extremely difficult to cut bOll1c3 and skirt together BO as to give a small waist effect and a look . oC elcg.mco that It can bo accomplished only I by dressmakers of the greatest kIil. Such . - A - LpI : : - _ ,1 _ _ _ _ ik- ' ! IL = ; 2 r ; I GREEN CLOTI iressmalters are not within reach oC a great many women. 'fho prIncess form therefore can hardly become pOlJlar , Moreover , the class ot rich women do not lead the mode And for the rest , a long as a small waist Is the Ideal , the bodice and skIrt are naturally two distinct garments , Ind not only Is no advantage gancd ; but It Is a lapse from asto to run them Into one. .asto princess gowis that have been made have a bulge In the scams below the waist at the back , a sort at perfunctory bustle. This element appeared last spring In connec- ton with the Louis XVI models . I may . have Importance anti tt lay not. The nlvet stock collar , drawn to a squeeze and fastened behind has persisted through all the Ilast heat , aui 9 must be vital enough to go on for some time yet to conic , An alternative was offered during the summer In a square neck , old Venetian style but It was accepted by no one but the pete beurgelse out on a holiday. So confirmed has taste become for neck swathlngs Meap- time throats are getting feeble and scrawn ) ENLARGING SLEEVES. The sleeve does not Cal , but grows apace. Though the dressmakers continue to say that their most elelenat clients demand and wear only sleeves at moderate size , yet all timings are measurell by comparison , anti these m d- crate sleeves require some letres ot cloth. Fortunately few women attempt the wear of a jacket. They have Imagined In place of jackets a sleeveless garment with floating drapery over the arms , half jacket halt cape , and some ravishing garments have been madDen on this model. The furrIers In particular have fallen upon the Idea as a resource , ali fur jackets with sleeves promise to bo this year the excepto-n and not the rule. But capes , particularly In fur , will be the stand- In order of the cay , . And the famous flowered silks that were to - 'I . .1 . 'Ol.ET OF PI.AI WOOL AND VELVET. _ _ _ have revolutionized the mode have been reduced - ducell to the mere ' - 1I18c8 at mere trimmings to " garnish 111a\ silk ali ciotli . Ilalds , on the other hand , have kept good their place , and will remaIn stable alt win- ter The secret oC this Is that the design Is , nerely the I egul.r alternation of colored threads In the loom sad so I one at the sImplest eJpreulons to which a pattern can W reduced , a.l11 at the lama time It lisa great variety ; therefore , It does not fatigue the eye , but appears always new I I used I for skirt and sleeves , while the blouse Is draped with chllons and galoons. I ale - has found this autumn a novel use a an accessory - cusory , and plaId neckties and plaid shirt tronl are aJectet by young women of dash wel With bicycle dress these look particularly BRIGhT DECO nATIONS. Dut pauemenlerle II the most Important novel factor In the deml.seuon dress. Read for pasementerle all aorta at openwork gani- tures of cord , whether silk , wool , gold or cii- ver , mingled with applque of velvet or cloth cut In fine paterM , and enrichments of jet , jewels anti fur ; ale stamped galons , em- brolderles , lace , rIbbons and buttons. In the absence of any positive now forms these give varIety to time dresa. They are used more or less on the skirt , Bomewha on the sleeves , anti ( are deluged upon the blouse They also make pat Cf the substance at rich evening cloaks , SpecIal forms are devised for the blouse , yokes with pendant bands running to tbe bolt , heartshapd decoletl pieces , . 4 . . . - , , . . . ( , ri , TIEATREI TOILETTE entire skeleton blouses to bo laid over col- orell stuffs , etc. Tea ) ' France Is the principal manutae- turer of these garnitures and posses the authority to brIng them Into tashlon. I Is a very pretty affair In the mater oC busi- nose and the advantage Is to be explained wholly In the domain oC taste. France Is able to create a demand that only herself can supply , because she has pursued the pol- Icy oC making her artisans artists. All the world chooses to buy what Is most beautll , and the details ali ensemble of feminine dress are no exception to the rule. SOME NEW TOILETTES. A plaid street dress , In which red and brown predominate. The skirt Is open each side the front to disclose a plaiting of brown velvet , and a large enameled wood button , Is i at the head oC each opening. 'fhe sleeve : 15 very close on the lower part , with the material shirr2d In the seam , and Is open with three buttons like those on the skirt , but small . that fasten with cords. The fullness - ness at the upper part falls below the el- how. The blouse has brown velvet bretelep laid In folds , wIde on the shoulders so as to tall out upon the sleeve and passing under the velvet belt. Th breteles are garnished with buttons like those au the skirt , a row of three across Iach , to form the line oC a yoke. With this gown a toque oC black braided felt ; with a rosette of green Ivy leaves and berries on each side the front a larger rosette oC red faille ribbon on each side of the back and a wall oC black coque blades rising hIgh between front and back. A blue serge made for riiarritz. The skirt Is trimmed with clusters oC stiching. The belle Is n fitted jacket , with little basque In godels , the fronts rounded at the bottom , and open over a skirt oC blue and green plad. ! A large square collar covers the shoulders and falls In plaits on the front , where It falls into the jacket edge a9 revers. All the edges are stitched. Wide belt of white Jersey elastic , with yellow leather fastenings ; white linen turn down collar . with assorted necktie ; black tarpaulin 'iar hat with yellow leather band and coque blade at one sIde ! ; white point applque veil. Visiting dress of brown wool with moire pattern. I Is rIchly trimmed with nasse- menterle oC brown carl , having all the pat- tern outlined with brown Cur. The skirt has medallions oC the pasmenterL applqued at intervals along the ede. The bodice Is fitted behind , with a double box plait down the mid- die , and the front opens In form oC angara jacket , over a bouffant front oC yellow silk that has Its plalt ruffled with brown satin ribbon. The revere and sleeve tops have ap- plcatons ot the patsementer1 Cape of the same moire wool with a yoke at the pas- sementerlo and a luxurious collar oC sable that rolls high round the Cace. DInner blouse oC white lace over rose. Sleeves at same , reaching the elbow only , anti very much draped Garniture oC white : ribbon , flowered wIth rose a la Pompadour. The ribbon forms a series of lops across the bust running each way from a rosette at the center , the last loop falling out over the sleeve . A rosette oC the rIbbon Is placed In the sleeve draping , on a line with the bolico trImming , and a neck garniture oC the ribbon forms a fanciful bow at the back. Rich cape for visiting dres . On a founda. tan oC myrtle green satin Is laid a cape oC black lace not as long by some inches The edge of the green Is bordered with Cur , and the fur bas the upper edge cut out Into scallops - lops to fit the edge of the lace , and all Is Ipplqued down upon the green. Hlgb fur collar , with short ends. Theater toque In form at a Spanish turban very fat , with a conlderable flare. , I Is oC gray-blue velvet , trlmmell with rose roses and transparent Irrldescent wings , arranged , together as rosettes. A black pompon rises at one slle. _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ADA CONE. FUUIT ' ' ' . - JU"l' 'l'JIUU'rBS. 'rhe VI' to Dnt ' 'HlnJ ) lnn'I Ororln to 11M J.II ) ' Love. ' The latest requIrement laid upon the pocket and affection oC the generous young man Is the ofering of fruIt to the lady at his ad- miratlon. She Is going to expect It , and the very upto.date Crulter Is no moro the swain's good friend than Is the florist or the con- fectioner. To send a modest present of fruit this win- ter will bo a teat at affection , Indeed , since the dealer has taken counsel with himself and learned the virtue ot offsetting his wares Zacture with ribbons . and baskets at wondrous mau- It all happened because a fnlkln young man ordered several pounds at luscious hot- house grapes , golden pearl pears and late ; Virginia peaches to be sent to his betrothed : on her arrival from Europe. lie refused to ' have them delivered In the usual plaIn but honest and inexpensive paper bag. So time fruit dealer bought a rustic cornucopia basket , woven oC ' green and brown cedar bark supported on three tall legs. This he lined with autumn leaves heapell In the fruit with no inartistic hand , dropped around In the nooks English walnuts and chestnuts still In the half open burr and ted nil the curled end oC the cornucopia with masses of russet brown and purple rlbbans. The basket met with so many compliments and approval that both the girls who saw I and the Cruler himself were delighted. The ex- acting young roan Illd out just $10 for his gift , and so IJuplcate all his fellow men. The way to a malden's alectons now lies by the way at a fruit basket ali same oC them mire really worth having Until the very latest moment In the season peaches wU be the one desired contents for those made ) of gilded anti silver oat straws , WOven In with differently colored satin ribbons , lined with big green silk leaves , the peaches arranged - ranged In a pyramid wearing ribbon belts anti bows around their fa rosy bodies. Next In order are countrymen's hats , of 1 curious lunburt straw flol with pears. and prettiest of eli round rough fiat baskets made of brown wythes , with big loop bandIes anti piled wIth green and deep purple grapea. These baskets are In Imitation of thole the grape gatherers use In Burgundy , They are tell with red and green satin rIbbons ; somf- wimce amid the bows Is cau&h a pair oC cunning little grape scissor and already , with thc arrival o ( early oranges , have came lovely green palmetto baskets , woven In big ! broad concave platters , the handles of twisted orange satin rIbbons , one of them holding a lithe fruit knlt Every basket of oranges Is picked es- peialy with a stem arOl'one green len at- tached , and though these baskets cost $10 , $3 and $5 , the really rpens'e ones are trimmed with bon-bans. The confectioners make cnnning imitations In papler m.che of pears , peaches and apples and fill them . with assorted chocolates. A handsome basket hu at least a. half dozD or these pretty bon bonnllro set amid the oilier fruits anti ono girt of fruit made recently was n Chinese mandarin's hat Ilell with wee mandarin . darin oranges , soma oC which fell open to show Japanese persimmons Inside , candled currants cItron. , sugared cherries , or cr'stalzell 1'AISFUia - 1)Hi'1ilENC1L I I The l'o.ltol ofAilmit lietsey , n I el I I , ' ot l'orm.r TIle" , "When , " said a woman of mature ) 'ear anti experience to the Nei ' York Sun , "I hear persons complain , as I lonuthnes do , at the craving of young women nowadays to rush out Into the world ar.d seek their fortunes . tunes , Instead of staying Quiet ar1 ) . at home anti letting the fortune seek thm , I am tempted to tel the story ot Aunt lletsy. She wasn't our father's , but our grandfather's l'lsler , and therefore our great aunt , She was one of a largo family , all oC whom marrIed and scattered but herself. Whetber she had ever < ' had wooers or not I don't know ; no halo OC'I anything oC the sort hung around br when I knew her , whIch was some sixty years ago , when I was a very little girl. When ale lily grandfather died , one cause at his will was found to read : 'To my daughter Bet- say , 1 home. ' I was mme uncommon claU In wills oC that Ilay I was the accepted way to dispose of an unmarrlell daucbter , and It meant that time son who bad InherlCI the homestead should also Inherit Aunt Det- soy lie was to provide her with shelter , food and raiment for the balance oC ber anl life. lfe so happened thaI my grandfather was the happy heIr In thIs Instanc Aunt Iletsey wau a t once removed Cram time t spacious sec- I otiti tory front chamber that she hal occu- enl pied as eldest daughter and duly ensconced tn a little downstairs room. Such a thing as lte her going out and seeking independence by earning her own living nEver occurred to any one. As circumstances stood , she was looked on nt comfortably provided for , and lY grandCathel' would have been Ilch Incensed at anyone suggesting [ : that she wa' not. Had she not everything that a woman could passlbly want An unmarrIed woman , that Is to sea' . "When my grandfptlier dIll my father In his turn Inherited the homestead anti , Aunt iletsey. I was then that she came Into lY life. I remember her as 1 queer , unattractive little personality , that wo superciliously referred - ferrell to as an old maid behind her back , although ready to tear the eyes out of other children who dared to offer such an insult to oven this lest esteemed relative. We dldn't lava her In the least , we felt that she was somehow only tolerated among us , and we saw that she received but little consideration from our elders. She hall nothing In common with children , and wo children hail nothing In common with her. Why. .he never had any money to give us or with which to buy things for us , consequenty there was nver anything to bo got 'out at her , ' and childish standards are apt to bo commcrcal ! "She used to help about the house a little , but with Increasing years she wasn't equal to oven that little , and so spent most oC her time In the tiny nook that belonged to her salely. She had a cat she was very fond oC , and I remember that the walls oC her room were gay with a flowered paper that I greatly admired and privately thought much too good for Aunt Detsey. The sun used to get round to the one window oC her rom about 3 o'clock In the afternoon . when she never failed to bo there. If she happened to be In another part of the house at that hour she would scurry away to her room ta greet the coming oC the bright patch oC sunlight that never failed her except on a rainy day. She caled I 'my company. ' She knitted a great deal-stockings , and mittens , and mumers , and other uninteresting and useful things "It never once occurred to any of us , grownups - ups or children , that there was anything pathetic about her. Even when she tiled our chief feeling was a sen3 of relef , Only oC late years have I come to realize how lonely i she must have ben In her utter dependence ' upon us and In her lack oC love. Thank 'I heaven , though , there can be no Aunt Betseys nowadays. You may object as you choose to the present influx of women Into ofesslonal and business life : I Is infinItely IlreCerablo to time one-time 'To my daughter Betse , a home , ' I don't believe In bloomers nor In many . other things that time 'emancipated' woman demands , but neither dG I believe In Aunt Detseys and time conditions that create them . " _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ XE 01 ' 11111 'I'It1tEI . The Coming " ' . .1.Unj or ( inc or Anu'r- ie'ii'a ItIcitepit 11eireNMe , , . l'n'N HI. . " n.lr""H" " One oC the three great heiresses about to bo married-Miss Ethel V. Phelps Stokes-- will have a chrysanthemum wedding , says the New York Recorder. I 1 safe to say that oC these brides-elect Miss Stokes bas the greatest fortune. She inherits mora than Consuelo Vanderbilt's dowry from her grandfather , Isaac N. Phelps , and her father and mother are roiling In vealth . , - Miss Stoltes' and John Sherman Hoyt's marriage will bo first , as It 19 to take place on Tnurs- Iay , October 31. The ceremony Is to be performed In Trinity church at Leon ; Mass , Irs. Anson Phelps Stokes hS Ideas on as extensive a scale as her fortune. She has sImply ISfued her orders to have the Interior Ir the church a mass oC yellow and white bloom . How many fringed chrysanthemums It will need to fill the chancel , entwIne the pillars and make the bouquets , ted with satin ribbons to bo placed on very pew Is beyond calculation. leldes these there wi be huge pots of the flowers In bloom , about the portals anti corridor upstairs at the back oC the balcony , and , In fact . ' \ery- where. Each oC Mr Hoyt's ten ushers will : have a perfect fringed whIte chrysanthemum In the lapel of his coat Miss Ethel V. l'help9 Stokes Is one of the new fashioned , tall , athletic girls She has a fine figure , stately carriage , oval face , creamy complxon ( and dark hair and eyes , lice wedding gown will combine all the pos- sibIltes oC a toiiette. The white satin Is of the richest quality. There Is all the point lace on It that the ski at the most noted Parisian mantua maker could contrive to arrange In draperies , frills and fiouncoa . This la of the most exquisite design ! and quality. That on the high corsage will be caught wIth several diamond ornaments , all splendid , and one br1Uant chrysanthemum The lace veil 19 at the precise design and quality as that on the gown , A tara , composed of a succession of sunburts , wilt Dcuro the folds of the coiffure , The bouquet carried will be of white chrysanthemums . There I an empIre fan to go with this bridal costume of caved mother of pearl , with a diamond In the rivet clasp , and lace top to snatch the rest In design . Miss Stoke has selected all big and fine lookIng vrls to be her bridesmaids , her sister , Miss Helen Olva Phelps Stokes , MIa Rosina S. Hoyt and Mia Emily Vanderbilt Sloane among them They will ! wear yellow satin gowns a tby precede the brIde In all her magnificence up the aisle . These will 1" very much fried with duff n , "Il rosettes of satin ribbon on tlim , The plo tmire hat are to he hhck velvet for this is tIe present Brllh fa atIH , OlrIln I . I ever square weddings . _ .huC arc great hlJh cro"'ns to the hats anaU.Hh { : : : of yellow rlh- lon In , two shl.ea Ioti fss the frrnt , ter. Ilnli : : on tlhtr sitl , 4n ) 'clo\ ro ! tes. They chrysanthemums will c fr1 , hUgblquets er yellow The Inviatons to tlo ) UolStoke wed- t1ng were ISled weesgo by the brldo'l parentR. These will hai4jo additional cuds with them , much time same n were sent out for the Uurden-Sloanesfi1ing celebrated at Lenox. They Are to tf&'shbwn at the special train which will take the New Yorl guests to Lenox. . Again a glimpse ot them will be afforded to those In charge It the Curtis hotel on arrival . Long ago : Ir Stokes cc- clrell every room In this establisiminent . anti the most comprehensive arrangements have hpn made for the comfort oC time large part , Not only will the guests bo quartered I thIs hostelry , hut ni of the.colnge set , IncludIng the Sloanes , l'auon , liarnes I.anlers , Cookes . Morgans nml + ! hera will have theIr big houscs filled for hI occasion , Ac time guests know that It 1'11 be a ) 'elol and whte " ecitling . time feiInine contingent will bear this In mind as Ib t the attire they will wear for the occslon2 Irs. Ansol Ihelps Stokes her daughter , Baroness llalkett . anti her new ( lau hter-ln-1 , lrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes , nec : lnturn , w\l \ all ba In lnnCEnty attired In white and y610w slts , Naturally , many at the cottage Iuny will aim contribute - tribute hy their costumes to the white and yellow effect. _ _ _ _ _ " _ _ _ CVltISn , nrpl.\SIJ S. GuolI n. n TnlisiiitiiahO.unii.e uhoI1 , . . Cliii llesIt'Ehmemn. eln l..I li'r..I. I wishes could onbjjo answered and a girl had but one , other tllngs being equal , I should , advise her to - m1cmtd for eyelashes- beautiful long , ctmrhingcs , says a fashion writer. There Is not.g In the worM so serviceable as a pair cfect\'o e'clashes. They make any kind Of an eye pretty , I tne'D orbs are not 1 pleasing color , all one has to do Is to drop thl urtlns , look down , IOt up In and not outlct : the eyelashes lie along the cheek , and ) t they are the rIght Itl\l one looks charm ng. And the lovely part oC It Is for thotB blCsed , that they cannot be countertcll&-d. & They are never false. I you were not r with them , sIgh- Ing for them Is oC no t ! . . Nor can art sup- ply the deficiency. St hIdes her head In shame at her utter lack at skill , for they mUf be indigenous-y U can't sew , glue or vln them Indlgenous-1 . : ' Every now anti then1Folo one starts up with an Idea about lakln short , thin eye. lashes grow to be the' desired kind I , anti every new scheme haa its followers. nut It Is all hopelesly CutI ! . A girl can-or cours she Ioesn't-paih.to < help , out shortcomings - comings In her form : ! he may horrow other peopla's hair ali slie - : may lay In a stock oC complexion that wlnast her a year : that Is , If she should waut tolo ouch things , but she cau't buton or . hbk on that desirable silky fringe to the e-'hlch "oul\ enhance her charms Immeasurkbly. The latest the- ory on this subject lunched Is that I tIme lashes are trImmed ' ! two weeks for i'L'c ; . , , , ooo.t , : s' ' , : - i. : ; t fi4ij JTJ , , ! ia i i . _ . . ' 5' ° ° r4 i ' 1P 7 NE\V BODICES. _ - . _ weeks the result wt'l be a very thick growth But It Is a deep laid plot aC some fortunate one to dePrive her sisters of the little they have. Ones girl I know tried I She took a very shafim par oC embroidery scIssors and neatly ttlmmedl ) the lal.hes oC her left eye . The" she examined her worlt In the mirror and wms much surprised at the result The \fs eye appeared much smaller than the rigb . and the row at little black stubs felt , gucar . to say nothing of how they hooked Alii tha comment It e'- cIted , and time qucsto'ls 'ho had to answer ! As bad as when a mgn gets his hair cut "What Is this maler.wIh your ) ? " some one would asl. "I.ooh as If ) you were going to have a sty. " I tk a long time before that eye matched times ! other , and tbtro was not the slightest tilffrence as regards the growth after It did COmo ( out. Clearly that Is a scllemo which ceri'res to be exposed . It ; I always the way A girl who has everything - thing has the eyelash thrown In , and ago may wither her , hut they are Imperishable. A pretty "littie ivomap . one who can gIve but- terfy kisses" heauuUly : , COmlJlalns that she cannot wear a veil wih % any comfort because her eyelashes "get tangled In the meshts and annoY her dreadf ly. Poor thing I She has told time story tot every one she knows , but none oC the girls sympathize with her Each one trIed to make her own do the same timing. - - - 'IUO"'S ' ' . \ . - ' 1'0 I'JtltltO'I'S. 101) ' I" n Fseort. . " .lh the 1.011 " % ' 'I'n " 'I , - I.h' AI.I. Parrots have nevereen , suspected oC Ilav- never..feen < Ine a mission In tIIe'but one has bean d - - Ie d\- covered for them in&prooklyn , according 10 the New York World. An attendant In a shop where animals and t1rds : are the stock In trade was asked I alithe parrots that talked were trained by sal rs. "Not at all , " he sal4. "if you should come In here during the wek , following the arrival oC n cargo oC parrots ou would Boon find out thal there are a lot tf women In New York who make It almostl a profession to train parrots , The best cq $ tlln rs1 have , how- ever , are Brooklyn xiciows. There Is ana woman who comes fjn after almost every cargo we reeelvo an buya al least one or two parrots , sometln more , which alma In- tends to teach to tz'lI'lImo t women who do that are mostly wll ' ' , How 110 , I know ? Why they tel us si'and wllY do you sup- pose they want thofsorrots7 It's for company - pany , they say 1i91 say they are lonely and the parrots ar.j'ouipany , beCaU53 after they talk to them nHlgh ( the parrot talks back , That Is whY ; ldOWB like parrots bet- ter than canaries , tnf say One In Brook- lyn keeps a little npton ) store and sell can- dies. The children rp e ' the parrot there and the parrot Is speedO , "i11 and taken away as soon as I can Itwo or three timings Then the wIdow's \ plineas comes over her Qlnes again and she conin search oC another pupil In feathers. Jmo gets three times as much as she COjln time bird , and It I learns rapidly and } t.1as quite a number oC words or sings a , shD gets even more. " So after all ' PpIihias . a omission . . l nMhft ] 0(0. . Time Medici cohlarbjira .gatn on many at the coat waists , v4y pejrs lined with chinchilla fur Fur trimmings , wewere , so popular lat year , are In grcateiiemand \ than ever , and sable chinchilla antircian lamb are equally faWtionable andl Expensive butolj ' nd showy belt buckles remain distinctly inbe fashion , and almost every gown has one : r the other or both to complete the ornamentton , Blue and green is'I very stylish ccmblna- ton this season and1jhack and white gown are a fashionable al over , relieved by gay color and an abundaqce oC taco al the waist. Some of the mosti elegant velvet gowns have very most ot the tame for a finish to the round .wilst , and a the buckle required Is very tiny It Is often very cle- ganty jeweled , ' , ; Plain skIrts at Zl tlne cloth , In medium and dark sbadea , ar transformed Into very dressy ) , awns by a . cfat waist of faie silk , W.tl 1 tight ground flowered In the new blurred fashion and striped with black Stn , I The continued fullness at the sleeTs PJtles the populaiy ot the cape for another seAson , anti It II t made In every ImsRlnabls material , ingeniously diversified In elect by elaborate trlmmlng which In some Instance cover the entire garment , Fancy ribbons com In for I large share 11 the Ilres trimmings , especially on evening gowns , and the Mme belts , bO"1 and cash < comic worn during the summer appear Igaln , " lithe some at the new eulan ribbons are very effectively used on darker gowns for day wear , The fashion of skIrts anti bodices alike hu not eclpoll the blouse or fancy waist , for II still reigns with all Its farmer and much additional elegance , being made of nlntp , both plain end figured , and also of brilliant phll ! erts : anti , chaleJeon silks to brighten up dark The Parisian designer , always ready with daring combinations , docs not hesitate to combine velvet , lace , Cur , chIlon anti art- fidel ! ewers In one gown , anti even fur jackets are touched "Ith the craze for variety anti show rever of colored velvet traced II flowered patterns with jet. The most noticeable feature at the new hOllco 19 the coat elect , which I ! given 1) ' nn added basque Cram sIx \ to twelve incites Ilc'p , whlr falls below a very narrow bel , I Is usually cut somewhat circular In shmape , so the edge hangs In fluted folds or plaIted In full box plaits at the back , A fabric woven ta re3emblo astrachan In blade 01 a c010rell groulc anti plaited with lines of nnother color 19 one oC the most strikIng 11eslnl and frlfc and boucle goods , with black mohaIr hoops of various lengths anti thIckness ! spread over n bright blue green or brown foundation , are very popular : st'les , Hounl waists are still very much In e\'I. denco among the new gowns , and are nuishell at th" bottom with either an Inch-wIde belt oC fancy trimming , velvet or af the snne mn tcrlal or 1 wide Drectalre ! belt fitted plain IC I 19 of velvet an I slightly draped when male oC satin , and fastened In front with fancy butons or a wide ! baw. Changeable peau 110 sale Is a silk high In favor for dinner and danllng gowns. I come In many exquisite color combInatons ! , loch as porcelain blue and peach , and attics ! af roqs anti faInt green The gowns arc I trlmmell with rare ell lace , Cur and jewels Many oC the new evening bodices have time corsage embroidered In J.\eI : and the low- cut neck edged with a narrow band oC fur. An exquisite lace skirt Is built over crem- colorell Dreden 11. , which Is reyealell where thin skirt vans In Cront. H Is edged with sable , and ) 1 second strip oC Cur crosses the front breadth a foot hlghcr. The sleeve9 era of the Dresden \k ; the bodice Is n jaunty jacket of r golden brown velvet with flaring ! Iodct hlp-slelrts , anti 1 lace jabot runes way down upon the skirt Cram a stock oC Dreen silk.Fancy Fancy little cola reles at velvet or Cur are , ' worn just at prewnt and these are made jut long enough to reach to the tip oC the : shoulders and arc not quite so full as they were In the ! prlnr A very jaunty little affair of PersIan lamb Is slashed up the hack and on the shoullers to the neck , which , gives It the appearnco af rulne , anti 13 1"lshly trimmed with mink tells , The neck h finished with a black satin ribbon rlche and large bow i \'alking ' hats are compleuons for their many wlns Chameleon \cl'ct. arranged In loops to give a broad eiTect . anti group oC wings form their principal trhnmlnr Toques at braided Celt and also or chenille are mneh the vogue for every day wear. Fur ta\s adorn them as well as reset c of richly I colored ribbon Dark blue and apple green Is a French color combination much usell , nlHl burt orange Is combined effectively with ( led ) brown All the shades oC magenta , ceelJ violet and plum are In Cavor. In lag : Ilt thorn Is a distinct novelty this season. I Is the hat wLh a flaring brim oC felt and a Tam 0' Shanter crown of flowered taffeta ' slik. In front the crown lay bo raisad up slightly and a jeweled . A buckle or I few flowers caught beneath It. large French hat II this shape shows the brim In black felt wih the soft crown In tint gre'mi taffeta sprlnlcell with dull ma- genta' Ire'n . The crown Is caught up In front to tte'phay a buckle In green brilliants and , incideiitallYttO.raeo . ! the Tam o' Shanter up Into a more becomIng position. At the left : side of ' the Ilat.on the brim and up against I , he r , v cluslelf -deopvlve ! petahi6drpnlro5es ! nrefastenedwhiloTatiths 1eudlpl back green roses and a jabot oC lace fall carelessly over the hair. P"llnll' NOtet4. Miss Hose Klngeley wilt spend this winter InAmerlca , lecturing on French art and Eng- 11th literature. lsh ltera Sara Jeanette Duncan ( Mrs. Coates ) lye In Calcutta In a hnnl1somo and Imposing haute whiCh ' I palntell plnle. Lady Overton christened the DaysprIng recently In Liverpool. I Is built to carryon missionary work among the lebrldlan Is- hands The Methodist EpIscopal denomination will not allow women to be mintaters but Miss Mary Dennis ot Rchmond , ) IHI , has In the hart three years acted as pastor and built a church lu Indianapols , Mis' Grace Hawthore , the English act- ress-manager , has probably traveled more than almost any other woman , and she attributes - tributes the happiness oC the Japanese to the absence aC either moralty or immorality among them The Dowager Lady Stanley ot Alderley , who died recently at the ago oC 87 , was always interested \ woman's advancement ' , She was one at the promoters aC Queen's college , and helped Miss Emiy Davies , the founder of Grton college. d'Uzes has between The Freuch Duchese d'Uze 12,000,000 and 14,000,000 botes oC champagne - pagne In her cellars In the Hue de Temple , I'aris . amid . It Is said that an even larger quantity of the liable wine Is stored In her cellars at Hhelms. Mrs Calrmount , who writes under the nom de plume oC George gerton , will go to Matabele Land , South Africa , to live , anti tIme reading public will 10 doubt receive interesting - teresting and bold matter along the line oC Olive Schreiner , who wrote "The African arm" while thue. Mrs Annie C. Wilson , the daughter at Dr. Norman MacLed , has issued since her re- turn to Lmdon her illustrated experiences under the title "After FIve Year In India. " . The book gives In a clear , comprehensive style the advantages and disadvantages of the English rule In India. Lady Dlke has prepared an astonishing ac- count oC , the factory conditions In Fngland , She finds that In many districts the weavers and mill bands marry thos whom they know can support them , and the moral degeneracy - generacy c time men and destruction of home life Is the result oC the women competing I with time men In the workIng ranks Mrs Navarro ( Mary Anderson ) has just given to her publisher tIme manuscript af her autobiography , whlcb will bo Issued under the name or lemorIes " In It she tells why she left the stagethat much and no more wU the shrewd publisher let us know wIthout buying the book Among the accomplishments which Mrs. Navarro has acquired since shl left the stale are paint- log , woodcarving , "reneh and Spanish : Queen VictorIa has just set an example In : I sanitary vlglalo that teas prominent per- , ions will do well to follow. Before going ! Into a strange palace she has sent a healh . Inspector , or a sanitary engineer , to hook over I the prelises and put everything In the most healthful condition-a precaution which the people oC this country will do well to imitate when they change hous s. In this particular case Queen Vlctoru has guarded her healh at the risk of offending the royal personage whose guest she Is to. b < The king oC Italy ; has put at her disposal a palace In Naples , and It Is this palace that Is to be specially investigated by the man who I chief IlIum- her for her majesty The new woman bicyclists of New York to the number at eIght , who believe In what time "bloomneritee" cal rational dress , have organized the Knickerbocker club. The con. mluton and by-laws make the wearing of the forked garment a condition at member- ship. More than bal of the members are matrons One day recenty the club gave a bal and reception to a number of Brook- lyn women , also "rational" In dress , at Iuon's hotel , at the ocean end oC the Coney Island bicycle path. A parade oC decorate wheels IJrecoed the ball. The dancng ! was enjoyed on the broad piazzas of the hotel. The rule wu rigidly enforced that no woman In skirts should be allowed on tIme floor while the band played on . The male participants : were eli attired In conventional bicycle costume - tume This was the first exclusively bloomer bal ever iven In this country. - ' . ItECOLLECT1O\'S : \ OF LiNCOLN - Govoror Bnundors Sheds Some LIght on "non t Abo's" ' Oharotor , - LISTENING TO HIS CAMP FIE STORIES - Ills cer.t .mll ( " " Crntly Kept I" tle Inrk-Iimienim's In" Shnn- tare ell the . Cutimiiiissini of ? clrnkii's Govermior. x.Governor Alvin Saunders of Omaha contributes . tributes , In the Chicago Tlmes.lerall , some interesting recollections of Abrnham Lincoln , which lay serve to shed a little more lighten on time unllue and cOII'lex character oC time lan who filled the whole horIzon at the - days oC the GOs , 0111 has not been and never will bo forgotten . Says Mr. Saunllen " ) : : "I knew Abraham 1.lneoln as far back as the beginning of the lack hank war , at which time I was a mere boy. My eider brother was at that tmo a captain In tie ( same regiment as 1lncoln , and another brother wa a private In tim Mme regiment , When I visited them I was my great del ht to Corm one of the group gatlm- ered around Lincoln and listen to his InimItably - Itably told stories , which , boy as I was , I could always understand , In such plain Ian- guae were they told. I ha always ! eemel to me , though It Is a contrary view to that heM by the majority oC those who knew him , that .Incoln's clerics were never toM for the purpose oC raising a laugh , but were related - hated sOlely for illustration or rebul : . and when the later was the cue the man against whom I was directed woull have preferred any other method IC he had sense euough to comprehend lie ( point Vulgar anti coin- manplce people , howevcr , would grasp only the funny Points oC his stories and would Ig- nero the ( lessons they were intended to teach ( , I have always belc\'ell there was a hidden yeln of hoimy behln,1 Ilncaln's semnlng Ingenuousness - genuousness , and that he frequently enjo'ed the stupidIty oC the people who 50 entirely failed to comprehend his nmeaning ) "This talk shout Lincoln not being nm- bllls anti that his 11resHental aspirations were lluo to Irs. Llncoln's Importunlngs Is all t.tosim Lincoln did not 'wcar his heart on his sleo\'e' and he was to crafty to announce to the world lt large his secret wlshcs , but from the time he and several other young men oC Springfeld were emitting down the trees which overhung the Sangamon rIver antI . Impeded steamboat traffic . anti Cormell a debating society , whIch held a meeting each night aCer the party had gone Into camp , there Is no doubt In my mind that he was determined to attaIn the hIghest posi- ton hmard work and fortuitous chance could give him I do not say that ho then aspired to the preHhlency. I tblnk he fixed his eyes on that gel during time next campaign , after his party had Put him on the Itump In recognition oC the skill lu polemnlc debate he hal shown during these evenings In camp on the Sangamon rlrer. "lie was Car-sighted beyond any man ot his time , anti prepared iimn'elf ! Cur all emergencies - gencies When they arose ho met them promptly , anti It was this faculty , as much as anyone thing , that contributed to lila success as a Politician . He bad also the faculty oC reading human nature and oi meal'urlng his moan moraly and Intelectu- al ) ' . I was this which enabled him to cou- yert mluy enemies and lukewarm ales Intl stanch , nrm friends and supporters I Is rare indeed , to find united tn one man the mental grasp oC the statesman and the work. big poner of the politician . lIe was crafty , not mii'ng : the word In the sens of Ignoraut cunning His was the deep craft of the statEsman and he kept his own counsel One oC his peculiarities was that when a man Clme to him with a claim oC any sort , or 1 proposition , he would hear al that man had to say In perfect silence , anti with emlng inattcn'ion. Yet , when tu story . was told , he would go over It , point by point , picking out all the weal points , dissecting time fabric until only the warp -of the true and reason- able remained. No one could Impose upon hIm. ! hm."lie looked at a proposition on all sIdes. I caledIJOn hIm once whie ho was prel- dent to secure the promotion oC an omcer promolon oncer named Eihitt. I state Captain Eiiltt's , claim , to promotIon a.01 hollstenedln1cihence , , , . , llent torT ' lealtwAntYlmlnutes : 'Then \a hoHsald : ' "Yes ; Elll Is"a good man : and what's more : he'9 anipimibus , ' givIng the word the accent which he , In common with many other southerners. bad , and which clung to him nil his life. " 1 am just remlOld ( of the description of Lincoln's personal appearance given by old Peter CartwrIght , an eccentric Methodist preacher whom many Illinois people with doubtoss remember. lie didn't like Lincoln very wll , probably because Lincoln was not : member at his nacle. Said he : 'ThlR Lincoln Is a man six feet four Inches tail , but so angular that IC you should drop a plummet from the center oC his head It would cut him three titmice before It touched his feet. ' feet. "We were speaking one time , oC a little Nebraska settlement on the Weeping Watcr , " ' \eLping Water ! said tie Then with a twlnklf In his e'e 'I slppose the Indians Olt there cal I Mlnneboohao , don't they ? They ought to , IC Laughing Water Is lnne- haba In their language. ' "Probably tIme last otcnl act of 1.lncoln's hifo was time signIng oC the commission reappointing - appointing mo governor oC Nebraska I saw Mr. Lincoln regarding the matter , amid , h& toll mo to ! o home , as he would attend to It all right. I heft on time morning af the 1th , anti while enroute the news oC the assassina- ton on time evening or the same day reached me. I Immediately wllell back to fnd out what had become at my commission anti was told that the room had not been openetl . When It wa opened after tile death , the document was fountl hying on his desk , Mr. Ltncoiim had signet ! ft just before heaving for tli theater tltat fatal e.venlng anti left it lying there , unfoitletl. The appointneimt , was omaile out by Mr. Johnson. Mr. Seward diii lint sign it , "A itoto was found below tiu tiocument as follows 'hiather a heimgtlmy commnissiomi , hm- stowing upon Mr. Alvin Satntlers thin oihiciai authorIty of time territory of Nebraska. ' Then caine Lincoln's signature , vhiictt with one cx. ception , that of a penciled message on time hack of thmo card sent imp by a friend as Mr. Lincoln was dressing for the theater , is time very last signature of the martyr hirecudent. I have bad it oandsomnely trained and It hangs upon time ivahh in my home. " ! - % On c'JI .socit . ' lo The operc' ) wiThout' iniri - ) ! - V1v-1 ; , whif1-of cur 11jpEIUAL ( flowN ! _ TilE rAshiorlAnLE PRFUMC , Flowery , re1roshinc. delicrs Afld ibnTiri' . For 8amie by druists only. IMPERIAL CflOWN PEflFUMEIV ( CO , SAINT LUUIB , t1YER L3ROT1ICRS DRUG CO.AGENT5 ALSOIflY ( WEDD1tIC 6LL5\Two \ new PEACj BLOW. odor5 , PIuM OR MORPHINE HAEUf PAfl1LILY PZM.&IIZ1TLY CZD DR. B. D. COLLINS' PAINLESS OPUM ANTIDOTE ORIQIHAL AND ONLY GENUINE REMEDY. Discoveredin $868. $ "THERiAKI"jhoolc Free , Offica 312 , 70 Monroe Street , it i p. o.RAwfs _ as , . UimIURUU 31.5. WILCOl : : COMPOuND ANSYO PILLS I'Ifesnd SII1tP Always reliable. Tak. no snbstiiut , . Forsate by atidrugiliti. saco. h.id IC. for Wo"rna's &iJ5tt2td. WI IL'OX AmPICCI IJU oo.u bOUTII I1U1tTU82A'uILADA.,1'4 . . - - - - - - - - MUNYON'S PROOF Public Pr.iIs Ioni Emfncnt C111z6n9 , tim Comniuhete end Perms stout titirea In 'I'hmutisiuiishts oC CaieI Vliert' .l'luysleinns lhiiv Ft.lleul- . ( e a Pren Coity of Mtmmtyon't , ( inlet to health , Aek oumr 1)rsmggisf for . , ( Ihottle of Motuyomi'a Uon.1q thIs duel Cure 'ouaeif , Mr. II , C. Smith , No. GID Perry ztrfet , Newark , N. S. , says : "After several plmysi- clans gave up toy case as beycuti theIr skill , I wrote to l'rof , Munyon. I lied dyspepsis and somustant distrem's in time stonuachm , chronlo diarrhoea , catarrh , whim contiual dropping of immucus In the throat anti stoppage of the' nose , I had suffered so touch frouum rheu- mnatlsmmm In time cimoultlcr that I comultl scarceiZ immove toy arm , I also imtid kidney trouble , with backacimo anti swellIng of the feet and ankles , iii fact , it would be barth to find a mimoro obt'timmate anti cotimphicated case , mind I could sc.arcehy believe Prof. Munyon's state. mmmcmii that his reimmethies woultl ctiro mime. But I confess freely thmat I was conmlthetely cured by a stuart course of Muiiyon'a Itemedles , X - with to particularly recomimmonti hits new ct- tarrim trcatnment a' ' tim itulitlost cml yet thtu' mnost promiiptly curative of any I have used , " The Mumimyon Itenmetlies cilect ltromilPt antE positive cures In time mimost obstinate cases. A separate cure for cacti dIsease. At alt drug. gists , 25 cents each , l'crsonal letters to Prof. Mumnyon , 1505 Arch street , Ptmilatlelithtia , l's. , answered ivithm. free medical advice for any disease. VIGOR OF MEN. Easily , Ouckly ! , Permanently Rostoro. 'clnet ; . , Nervousnsas t : Dobthit' , anti all time trai * . of evils from early acre is o . later exme5mc : ? ' the results az overwork , ilc'knems wo , ' etc. Full strength , de'i . - optnonttntl too given 1 every urau stud poctio t h . ' ' . ofthebody. Slmnpiena , -'i ) LI ural methittmi. immoet /11 , i. ill ate itnproiement sees. . V'iltnvo ' inipeet , Ible. 2,0t ( refen nec. . Book , , , ' intl proofs mailed 'sealed ) free. Erie IRodicaI Co Iuffalo , NJ LMEI OIS3t4 14 -w , lTJr M " ' 11'r.iiIr7IN L't "EC' u onaryor'r , 'mill 1tIari bfphttme permanently qured in lb to y35 days. You can be ireatcO at borne f . tbo same price untlersame gmmaranty. yonprefecto Cdnio hero we 1sIoOnt.rac5 to pay railroad fame anti hotel bills. anti 00 tOat3mTafahitoctlre. Ifyoo bavo takenaner. ' cury , itlhdo Pettish , amid still have aches Lut1 taini , Mucus I'atehieq in mouth , Sore Throat , einuihcg , Copper Colored Spots , Ulm'.m o'a nuT part of Clue boly , Ci air Dr ! ytbromv falLLpm . ) ut , It is this 8yplililtio SOLOOI ) POiSoN th5 an guarantee IA ) cure. We solicit the macst ob.W 'Rita cia.ea anti ciituIimititi , the workS for ( 'as , , we caimtiot cure , 'ibtq dm'ca.a hia uuhws tutlleci th. ' skill of Ihie ? iittst oruineumtthysi- Iaiis , .5OOOO ( ) capital beltttt'i our uncontit. imonal gnart.asr , AhoI lito troof , . .nt Cssied o , tppilt"iri ) ddress ( Htc IU.ThIE1JV CO. , ao'g t-s' . , 'Xemanlo. VU1CAIs L ( -I PATRONIZE HOME INDUSTRIES. fly surchaMng goods made at tIte following ebra.ka factories. It you can not find whet son want communicate wIth the inanufac. turera as to what deuiemi handle their goodL Js.ws. flUICL1tL' aND Z'U'J.VE. . . , : Zdanuractuier. of all kInds of cotton and bee- tip bags , cotton ( tour sacks and twin. a spec. city. 614-61G.bis S. llUi.St. - uhf iriczczxs , OIAllAllliE\V1NG \ ASSOCIATION. Ca , hoed slmlpmcnts made In our own retrta. ator ears. Uhue Ribbon , Elite iixport , Vienn nxport. and ramimy 1zport. deilveced to ll miarta of city , ( J.tlUU.IjS .INI ) Tt'IUON. ' . A. J. SUIPSON , 1409.11 Dodge-st. Ttma beat mini cheapest ptati' to buy a good imuggy , Carriage or \ S'ngon.gt . ( or the best rubber tire in usu. DRUM1OD CARRIAGE GO , put rubber tIres and bali bearIng axle. on their on make veitlctea , and sell a top bttggy for c5o.co besides , \Srite them. 15th and liarney , co1'1'i _ , : , s'IUl , n.e ICING Pt ) tt'Jlc - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - COSOL1DAD CO1F' ? CO. , - Coffee Itoaster. , spIce Grtnder , 7Ianuactur. ' era German 1lakin I'owdem' and German Dry" hop Yoaet. 1414 and 1416 ilarney.st. , Omaha. Nab' PLC ) Lilt. - _ _ _ _ s , KGLMAN ! , iSanutaeturcr of Cold Medal Flour. C. B. Ijiack , ? Jaimager , Omhs. , I"UutNtz'Uitlt JtUTozeri. OLULAUPHOLStrER11G ) CO. . Manufacttmrer. of Parlor Furniture , Ioungei , liming Tables and Ifoiding Bed& 25th ave. . I'ny'i to Shcmher Bt. . ICJfANI ) COd 1 , , 'sob iii O1IAIIA IC AND CtliL GO , Domestt' , and Steam Coal. W have the beat- omce 1601 l'nrnnm-sL Teleplmcne : Omso 373 , . iard,165. .7. A. Doe. General Manager , Iltox IlOltK' , . IHOUSTRIAL IRON \VORKS. \ S Jenufacturhng anti flepalrtng of all kinde of' macitmnery , engines. puropa , .tievataia , printing presea , hangers , shafting and couplings 140 $ und 1405 Howard-st. , Omaha , PAxTOi VIERLIIIG IRON IVORKS , ) .lanuracturtc , of Architectural Iron SVork. General J"uunlry , Machine and iiiacksmlth Vcti intcinet.'ru anti Contractors tor Fire [ 'root nuummttga. Omce and woik. : I ! , I' . 117. . Omaha. _ _ _ _ _ _ .1hz 1 i'lt Co T. , WilliS. - L. C DOUP. Sfnnufactimrer Mattresses. sprIng Beds ; Jobbep Feathers and I'illowi. 14 , 14th arid Nictmoia.s ge , , , Omaha. . Jtr II'.IrUll , i'lItI ; : ieViUe' , A1ucA ! DJSTRIUT TELEGRAPH , The oniy perfect protection to property. Exam. Ins it. Baut thing on earthl Reduces iasur. anco rates. iZOi Douglas-at , 0 'a1t.iLf I.IrOltliS. ' IiTZ-NEVINSCO , Manufacturers of Men's anti hays' Clothing , Pants , Shirt , anti Overalls. 102.112 S. ltth tit. J.,1J.blc JCILVJf.'J. TI1EOllAPAPEI1BOXCO. Manufacturer. of eli kinds of Paper Imoze. , Shelf Boxes , uatnple Case. , Matting 'Asides , etc. % 'cddlnm cake anti fancy candy boxes , druggist awl jewelry boxea. 1105.10 Joties-t. , Omaha. MI1flTJ'.tCTO1tIL4 , J , I ! , EVAS---llEBRASKA SHIRT CO. Exclusive custom shirt tailora. 1115 Farimaza ,