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About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 1, 1895)
- . . . . I .t - ' - - - - - - - _ - _ - - - . TILE Oi\AIJA : D.A.IT.J Y 1SiLt : Hl'NJ , ) t t Y , Sgp'l'RMB unt 1. 18tH ! ) ) , Q'J 1 1 / - - - - - - . - - I' 'i WOMAN'S DOMAIN. } s ii I . n'r7 ! P ] Tw9F9i rF11Fi ; I'r.'i1 frinF9rtt'ii 1 ' ; l r ; ; i r ; ; , w : i'f ; ; rrsrv : I r.r rir ; ; ; : ; r9r : ; riwt : ; rt rt r - r = 'E' r : ; > ; ; F. F5'r = o I -'i = ' .F' , ' Ll. ! = ' . ! = ' . ! = ' ! I 1"llt : N011 b'ASIIIONS. ! ! 'cllt1I of VCllllnlno 'Fenr t'crfcl'tct , III furls ' 'Vllrl It u niii " . rAmS , Aug 21.-ln the work rooms of I'nrh are busy strains and l'rele'l ' hands I laboring : ceueleuly : at the problem of what ; , shall 110 worn when the last ball10n sleeve : e has been pricked lIy autumn's winds-If , in ' . deed , II h to be 10 prloked , for of all the ; vexed questions this of the sleeve Is melt mast vexing , and at this moment the drLufl1r.ku : or the whole world are on pilgrimages to ParIs and there their days arc spclll from 10 o'cloclt to 4 In 1\:1ld \ : work rooms , whcre lenta live models are passed and rel'1ued before them like magic : lantern slides. There they arc dashing : blindly o1t rouge ot nolr , and layIng their ! money lur luck , know. In" " , not In the least what : . the end may he They buy their models and take them home , but the ball will not ceaJe rolling tllI frosty y time and neither fiver nor love can to'l beforehand - hand how many breadths will be Ilccepte I aJ correct In a slllrt Neither ahc IWlIws that makes nor she that will wear. The character of the dress Is forme largely 4 ¼ ' : I ( 4 ( .d , WRITE SILK DARIIEI ) R'ITII BROWN. by the hat It Is wide III fr'nt , where ! It Feems weighted wIth trlnwnn ; ; : It hi wale : at the sides , where the trimmIng Is built out to the edge and beyond , and , It turns up hIgh behInd - hInd , with the effect of a':1 : tIJrrnnU3 SllRn'sh back ecmb , and th's comb : has let Hat agalro ! It a garniture at 1I0wr' , At thl1e3 It seems to he the width that llmlnlt : and at others the weight of the front : r the heIght rf the hack Its analys\ \ ! 's s'Jb'le and 'vave ! There have boon hats hIJh'r11I1 hats wider , but there have never bean any more surpr'l- log and , complex 0\ part of I's ffect IS see to Its posItion on the heal ; It Is worn tipped low over the face , ! O low that the brim ! cut across the disc ot she eyes , 'fhen thh hIgh flowered back cJl11b ui1 : the eyes glancing LUt from beneath the shade 1.1\ ' . nn effect ot ex- treme coquetry The apparently molest : pro- duced by the really damplex has re3uI'l'J ! n the extremely phlua'lt , allll hereby : t may b" noted that the dreSJmliter's art has In Icl\'lsl : ; lost Its grip. grip.A A NEW COIFFURE A peculiar style of hair ' dresaing ) goes pith this hat. It ts called too flat cslll , being named after the old maltor The hair : bulge out on each side ot the head low down , growing - Ing wide as It deseads , Joins ! either waved . or plain , so that the fate I peers from between ! as well as from under , thull llllng ! the effect ! upon It at the hat The face looks delicate and appealln There Is hero an Instance : where mere arrangement at dress . glvcs to every woman a grace , toil charm of expreslen that she does not possess by nature A beautiful or ugly face males no difference . , . ence to this sort of charm , fur the senses hold to Immediate phenomena , and the senses art ; ! entranced by ! this complex coquetry ; If Ilrte-- analysis discovers that the woman Is paln : there will ensue not 'IIS11'ih1lntnlCnt , but the additional flavor at surp.'I , f.le epicure : finds olives much better thna : pre on'es , and l pink and white complexlon \ Is tame bt ! lde these subtleties. Here , Indodd , Is the triumph \ or art. One may note tint uncovered ears are vow shockng ( Immodest Is too small a word , the naked ear looks fairly ! Jrazen , Thus II few weeks of habitude ! ! sweeps decades ! nto oJ- ! IIvlon On which text philosophy may bo hung , provided warm weather gives Inclination - tion It there Is no new dress under the sun , Aaron's linen 'coat being worn today by women and pantaloons havIng been found tram the stone epoch , there are at least designs that reappear like comets at such long Intervals that they are new tQ some consecutive gene'ratlons. Thus It Is with a certain Marie Antoinette hood ( , part of a Marie Antoinette cloak , that has appeared and , seems destined to a career Not so very old In Its design It Is so extremely odd that Its career was so short In Its day that It comes with a1the \ effect at sur- prlso I'hls : hood Is extremely wide and iii hoolled round the opening , . and when on time head stands out like \ an inflated halt balloon somewhat flattened on' the tall and leaving a wide \ < space on each side of the face that may bo filled with hair or shad- ows The width of thIs hood reaches out " to that of the widest sleeve ever made , . i Attached to a long cloak It Is bound to figure In evening wraps next winter , but forestalllng the time they are occasionally seen on hotel piazzas at night , and made at taffeta beruched or of satin lined with cloth ; ono or two travelers have worn them coming from Paris to the beach , The c .frect Is truly marvelous , LARGE OR SMAI.L. Apropos of sleeves there Is a speck as large as a mlln's hand that appeared In March that persists Inquletlngly It It does not grow , It Is the Louis XVI , sleeve , which IH to say the small sleeve , dubbed historically \ by courtesy for Introduction only. Its hesitating persistence troubles everybody t concerned , Will Il be assimilated or not. That It Is to bo seen here and there on II . . .t , l } r , / / t t /f\/ \ 1 4l , 1 1 I \ DLACK AND ROSE FOULARD BLOUSE darIng gown Is not an answer bul 'an aggravation - vation And \ all \ the cloak makers. because of It , are late In their autumn models. Shall \ they make sleeved Jacket or sha1\ \ they not T . . . It the gown sleevES fall they may , It not , , ' they must make calles And the manu- facturers at dress materials , who are acc . . lowed to furnish the retailers with colored plates of gowns made to Illustrate the stuffs , have hit In despair upon the expedIent of makIng two pictures where they uluall , make one : a picture with big sleeves and one with small , the chances appear something - thing like oven. Until the weather growl cool It II a lux- \Ir" to do lomethln out of routln . and HT'J ' : gI , LJ . ! ! = J perhaps this Is the reason white silk gowns are being ! worn on the afternoon promena.\ . ! I (10 ( not know that anybody ! can say why while silk Is not as suited to day wear as white muslin , provided It can be paid for , hut certainly not long since It would have seemed the very madness of tate and a monstrous usurpation of the prerogative of a hrlile. Though made up with the slm- pitchy of II serge It Is nothing abort ot a dog days' plunge Perhaps the same need of defying rule ex- plains why many skirts riot In trimming For having had It made perfectly clear that plain skirts ! alone were to he tolerated It Is astonishing to see riffles and puffs run amuck over the golletll of dress Does this signify somewhat for the future style or Is It a passLng sympathy with nature As to materials the uppermost question III as to the aesthetic signification of reflecting surfaces like taffeta and alpaca Just now In great Vogue. Do such surfaces or absorbent ! ones like crepe , bnrege and organlll look and feel most agreeable , or Is there any motive aC all In taste for choosing one or the other The sun and dust strike art alpaca , but so does the color and Is destroyed by the rellec- lion of light. This may seem to strike It out I from the question of beauty ! and to relegate It to home utility use. Whether It falls I there time will ultimately show For the rest It Is not apparent that flowered fabrics ! have gained the headway that was hope < 1 , Is this to ho ! taken for a sign 1 It also Is a question that vexes the artists and will be known only when the blll rolls Into the socket , or shall we say when the Grand Prix of autumn 1.9 run. We shall see , ADA CONE 1'Ul\UISI : OF " 'O tEX , 0\ Country ' % Yhere " 'nrl Suh- sertleml , , ' ' ' ' . . ' ' to 'l'III'lr 1Ylves . how surprised many new women of the civilized nations would be If tolll that .r : from being In advance of all her sisters In the world she Is lamentably behind In many vital points. ThEre exIsts In a far out or the way place on this globe a community where women have supreme , unquestioned and Imperious sway over man , A celebrated Russian trav- eler , Count NIcolas Notovlteh , tells of some strange thIngs from the land of the Ladakhs , These people Inhabit a territory covering an area of 30,000 square miles known as Middle Thlbot , and the count estimates the population - tlon at HOOOO souls , Metaphorically : speak- Ing , they can be classed among the most elevated - vated tribes In the world , their homes being on an average 29,000 feet above the level at the sea The women of the I.adaltl1 tribe , says : ' > Ir , Noto\'lteh , are tar In advance , both In physical - Ical graces as well as Intelligence , of their semi - civilized sisters ot other tribes and na- tions While ItS a rule they are below medIum - um height , their figures are ot exquisite symmetry and grace The rareness at the mountain air gives them an exceedingly clear complexion , of which they are very proud , 'they have eloquent mouths , with excellent teeth , and their laces are con- tinually wreathed ! with smiles , Their disposition - position matches this milke-up , being sunny and amiable They are extremely neat and fond ot prinking Though on account at tin altitude the climate Is very rigorous , the ) ' spend a great deal ot the time bathing In their costumes they show a charming In. cllnatlon for the pIcturesquely bizarre They will often combine filmy laces and many hued fabrIcs with handsome though somber colored ! furs In the most bewildering fashion , They know how to sho\\ oft and heIghten their personal charms to the best advantage , and ! arc Inordinately proud at theIr dazzling white necks One woulll think that with such an exam pIe the men would be the personification or _ gallantry and rIch In physical favors , but the very opposite Is the case Never was there a trIbe at men whom nature has treated more shabbily than the Ladakhs She has evIdently uJod ! up all her nice material on the women and what odds and ends there I were left have been utilized for makIng the most absurd caricatures at men Not a shadow of an Apollo Is found among tbem They are thin , stunted , often hunchbacked , and have very small heads badly set on slop- Ing shoulders. Their weazened features are grotesque , with the high check bones , low retreating forehead , flat nose , emphasized by i an enormous mouth with thIn lips In the matter of dress they affect a painful Indltter- once , theIr general make-up suggesting a dilapidated crazy quilt It one meets a Ladakh wearIng a shirt he may be at once set down as an ultra swell , as this useful garment Is totally unknown eave among the very rich , The care bestowed on their per- sons may better be Imagined than described , as Notovltch says they never wash except by compulsion , There Is a severe law l'Ub- Jectlng a man to heavy lines It he does not wash himself at least once a year ! The men In this place are totally subser- vient to the rule of the gentler sex. The women dictate the laws which govern the community through the priests , who , almost without exception , are appointed by them- vlve.9. They decIde any questions that arIse tram disputes regarding taxes or other tributary ! - tary measures enforced by law All this selr- l'88ertl\'enesa on the part of womankind among the Ladakhs reaches Its culmlnatlve point In polyandry ( plurallly of husbands ) , which Is practiced to the fullest extent among these people The men have little or no voice In the matter of courtsblp The family life Is as a matter of course full of bewildering complications In regard to relationship. The children only recognize the mother , and have apparently no affection whatever for the multiple tather The Ladakhs live a sort of arcadian lito Stealing , murder or other crimes are totally unknown and this happy stale or affairs must bo attributed to the benign influence at women , whose power here Is eupreme A Ill'lntlof 'nllhhllton , Miss Bond , tie great.grandnlece of George Washington , bas been one at the sensations at the eastern summer resorts the Ian two montbs. She has been the center of attraction - traction at nearly all the prominent watering . places In New York and has enjoyed great popularIty at Narragansell , Block Island , Nantucket and Magnolia , She Is descrIbed aa a beautiful girl and II said to possess many accomplishments , For the first time In many years the "Iummer men" In the east have made a show of pa- trlotllm by tailing Into the tram at George WashLngton's great - grandnlece's ; admirers , Not that thlll r.Vlrt the fathan-ot his coun- - -cJL j J L ! ; : ! [ LJ- ! ! l 'J1 JrJ ! J try , but that they like his Rrent-gramlnlece -such Is the explanation of the break In the ranks of the Anglomllnlacs , Miss Bond takes an active part in the work of the Daughters of the Revolution and members - hers at the organization are planning to honor her with an office , It Is said Miss : Bond re- ceh'es many letters from colored men who claim to have served George Washington a century ago She Is one of the few descendants - scendants of the patrIot well known In New York L.tIY , LlICI , : S IUlWIEIti : ! , l'coccllnrltlc'lI IIf the 1I..hu. IIf CI..ntllll the Uu'rnllll'lIt It Is during the latter part of August and the 1st of September , when the tide of travel Is setting westward from Europe , that Uncle Sam begins to cherIsh sharp suspicions of those or his daughters who have been summering - mering abroad. More : particularly does he have IIn eye to the lucky women , whose amply filled pockets were pretty well emptied In the shops that , , /f . ' l . l I I 1 I , r , c A CASE OF NEW ENGLAND CONSCIENCE border the Hue de la Palx or Regent street , and ' for the benefit ot his treasury and to keep watch and ward on these possible gentle law breakers he employs on his start of cus- tom Inspectors eight women , of which number - ber one or two lire always on , hand to greet every foreign passenger steamer arriving In the port of New York , But the work ot these Insllectresses Is much 'of the time mere formality , for whether because conscIences are tender , duties lighter or the dangers and penalties ot smuggling too heavy to be risked , efforts ! at evading the customs , by women at least are less and less frequent , "There , for example , are our old friends , the dressmakers , " said one of the most experienced perienced Inspectre8ses on the New York force , as trimly gowned and bonneted ! , with all the air at an expectant welcoming friend or relative at some home coming passenger , she awaited a shIp on one ot the North river docks , "Ditter experience has taught them suhmlsslon Once and again we have trouble ! with a venturesome body , but ! the losses have . I , , I \ _ ' 1 % , ' . t II - l :1 : : ' I , tarp . . . . ' _ _ _ _ : 1 \ ) 'i" ' i 1 . WITH ONE SILK GOWN. been so severe of late that smuggling no longer pays , and between the modistes of New York and Paris a new system ot purchasing and shipping has been Introduced Nowadays the fashionable American dress- makers undertake rarely more than one trip a year abroad The French houses send over by post samples ot Roods , patterns , etc . . selections arc made and then regular agents manage the delicate and dangerous business ot shipping , bringing the goods to the dress- makers' very door at one-third the expense and worry she used to have , RUSES THAT [ FAIL The favorite scheme for getting through the hands at custom officers cheaply b to pre- sent false accounts and purcha'es made , These bills are obligingly made out by the Parisian houses , giving ' the cost ot the goods Imported at one-halt the true price , but the custom house Is apt to keep shrewdly informed - formed as to how the Importers are buying Protesslonal packers , who go tram home to house anti shop to shop preparing the delicate gowns and hats for exportation , are apt to give InformatLon , besides there are govern- ment watchers ever on the alert and before the artful little modiste ever reaches her native shores with her modest accounts and neat explanations , a pretty fair estimate of her goads Is already In our hands. So after all when fashions change so rapIdly , when tears and legal processes have been ! proved wearing and not useful the dressmaker has almost succumbed to the Inevitable , What we are chiefly watching for now are the smllll attempts of prIvate Individuals , who think It the slightest of sins to cheat their own government Women who walk down the gang plank home from their first ' voyage , who have been regaled by their fel- : 10w-plSsengers : by artful tales of sm'lggllng tricks , discovered and treasured posse.18lons cruelly confiscated , are apt to look anxIously about for the dreaded Inspectress. But that dragon Is not so easily recognized , for women do not examine the luggage , unless especL1l1y requested , and she who gets through with the custom omcers most rapIdly Is blissfully unconscious the while that a keen-eyell , motherly-looking person , who stood near the gang plank , looked every 'woman traveller over with a searching glance First the faces , then the figures and lastly the expression of all \ those neat , tailor-made petticoats : underwent the sharpest scrutiny , A CLEVER DODGE . Now the average woman Is more sorely telllpted of all thIngs to buy lace abroad md lace ommandl still a hiGh duty One resourceful - sourceful New York woman merely- did her fifteen yeardl of old Valenciennes up In a careless looking paper parcel and actually gave It to the kindly Inspector to hold , while she elucidated the problem of her trunk lecks , lifted the trays , III candid display at all her possessions ! , rebuked , the boXC' ! "d " " resumed ( I her little parcel ftolll the limit who hall absellt'IIIIrHledly held It all the , while , the one dutiable article she hall brought QYer I All .WOIIICII , however , are sot as astute as this IngenIous American ! : , and th\lle of her I sisters who have brought unsetJe\\els through ! ; In the tubes or their keys pr , the plugged ' feet of a little bronze VenuI , Women rnl- dents or the Quaker City have " a passion for buying costly Scotch linen on the other side anJ are often detected In the pct / 01 smuggling ' It through tree of duty , Recently a fat Philadelphian wu trundled by two kindly pectresses out \If the line of gangway passengers , to be relieved at sometHing like twenty-live pounds of solid Scotch linen , pinned and \\rlll > i't'Iab1ut her plump , perspiring person The heat and weIght of the then hall almost brought on an apoplectic nt and 1 not only dd ! she not refuse to pay the duty , hut warmly thanked , the In- spcctresses for relieving her of her burden In time. The Philadelphian's case was just paralleled : by the silly attempt of a majestic old creole lady to overawe the servants of Unc'e Sun by her severe black eyes antI splendidly pOIl1adoured ( white hair , hut an Interview In the prIvate office was suggested ! and frzm out of that voluminous gored and WI'1shIfTed \ skirts of matlam's came nearly jOO yards of very fine lace and two sliver bon-hon lllshes ' Such genius as she hal showed for storing EO much under her petticoats deserved a higher . reward than discovery Once a husband's kindly I Ilallenco caused a. . touching little denouement In that same private - \'ate ofllce She was a thIn , nervous little person from Boston , whose gentle brown eyes actually glared ! as she came down the gang plank , and he was a tall , thin docile Amorl- can husband , who walked , IIIte a major general on dress parade , though his agonized expression - pression much belied his snarl ai bearing She was suspecteJ , but her luggage went through and when the Inspectre advanced , and made her stereotyped Inquiry In soemn : tones Boston's daughter declared so roundy : that all was well \ with her she was perforce let go Hardly were all the passengers dismissed when the little lady came scurrying back , dragged : ; ! the Inspectress Into the olllco , burnt Into n flood ot tears and owned up that h stout New England training hal reasserted itself , and ! she wished to confess that on examination ten yards at rIch flowered Lyons silk would ! he found wound lightly around her husJlI\d's ! bed ) ' , The obe'llent gentle- man was taken off by ! an Inspector , relieved at his straight Jacket that the wife that morning had persuaded him to assume for her sake , and on paying this conscience debt the pair went off with IIIht hearts In spite of lighter IHlrses Now the truth of It was this worm at a husband , through the pain and suffocation of his load , had threatened to taint outside the ships covered pier , a bit of a conjugal row had ensued his white : . face and reproaches filled her really tender heart with tears , and she repentantly paid the duty charges out of her own little al- lowance. .llaALS FOIL IIItA"g nlltl.s , 'l'wII I'lurt.tnlnl.Ic'II. : . . n"I"'h' SUln'e- ii lrs from leh'l { O"c'nr , On the night ot August 7 , 1S94 the N rwe' glan ship Cathrlne , Captain SVenden , during a fearful storm which raged ! en the Gulf ot Mexico was driven hroa'sde ' ! on the outer beach ! of Santa Rosa Island , Florida , one and one-half miles west ot the Iite-s vlng stJtlon She was discovered when day bcke by Captain - lain Broadbent , keeper at the stat'oJ : The waves were breaking over her , and the life saver knew tlllt she must soon go to peces : Under the law at that time , the lIte-'av'ng crews were not on duty : , and only two or three of the men were at lime statlan There were also two vls'trs , CJloncl Jl A. Davis et Washington , special agent ot the pe1slon ! bu' reau , and : ' > Ir. C , K , O'Neallof'Pdntacola , who had gone over to the Island ; and were : tletl'nd : by the storm , They promptly t l'inleared to assist Captain Bl'oJdbent , bat It was fond that they were not sulflce1t ! ] to rail the gun down the beach to a point where a.life line ' could be shot over the deemed ve ! el. The storm was Increasing In fury , and no time was to be ! lost , It the crew was to be savctl At ths ! juncture the two Iallglllers ot Captain BfdJent ! ! , IsaLeHa , aged ! 16 , and Sallie , aged 13 , voluntee.redq \ assist / With their aid the gun was rolled , q < > \ \ n the beach one and one-halt miles : , through a h'Inbhtg storm ot ran ! and a hurricane which nearly swept them from their feet , After Eeveral : attempts the : life line was shot over one at the masts at the ship and secured by the salons The life car was then rigged , and for hours these two brave girls worked ' lilts \ men : , until the last one at the elghton men at the crew was safely landed en the beach The ship went to pieces that night , Captain Sventlsen and hs ! men were flilod with gratitude : ! to their re' cuers , and espec'all to the two young gIrls who had braved such a wild storm to save them When they re turned to Norway thay laid the matter before their government , ! and King Oscar was eeJJy moved hy the tale of heroism , He Immedl ately gave orders to have prepared two b aa- tlful souvenirs , to be present to the two yeung grls ! In the name at time people ! ct Norway These consist ! ef two handsome silver - ver lockets with heavy sliver cl'a'ns ' , appropriately - prollrl3tel inscribed , and enclossd In handsome - some cases , 'l"lth the royal urns of Sweden and Norway embcssEd In goal on the covet ! ! Each locket has on the au silo : In large , heavr raised letters of beaut fill design the mOJograma : ot thl two glrls-"I , B , " and "S D-and on the Inside at each are two richly engraved gold tah'etl , on one of which appears the crown and monogoam or the king and on the other "For a Neb'e Deei ! , " These souvenirs were forwarded : to the Nor- wegian consul at l'ensac , C. F , DJyeeJ : , to be presented to the Misses : roadbelt They arrived recently and on'the 3tl ult , the em ul , accompanied hy a number ot women and men , Including CJlonel Davis , who was cn , ) at the I heroes ot the rescue , went over to the lifesaving . savIng station to make the presentation. flow Fire Slnrt. It Is found , says the New York Sun , that dry charcoal , when the heat Is removed from It , being nearly pure 'enrben , will absorb oxygen from the air under favorable conditions - bens so rapidly as to produce active com- bustion-that Is , a glow or lIame Now , the process of the origin of a fire front a steam pipe has been thus explalnct1-vlz" the heat from a steam pipe will In the course at time char or carbonize the wood In contact with or close to It , and when this charring process extends to any depth In the wood It presents a surface full of fissures and cracks , thus exposing a large section to the aIr , this charring drivIng the oxygen out of the charred portion and keeping : It out while the heat Is kept up When , therefore , the heat I.s removed , the charcoal reabsorbs oxy- gen from the air , and It the action Is rapid enough In a dry atmosphere combustion fol- lows nlllt'on Notes , The edict comes from abroad ! that sleeves have diminished more than halt In size The newest coats are dose ! In front and many at them are fastened with a l1y Fashionable tailor - mace ( trucks will be made with a seml-close'lIttlni Icoat sleeve C-oae.fittlng : sleeves 1thQt the suggestion - tlon of a putt or stiffened lining ! , lire to be the vogue J , Many of the inporteil . . 1I101lairs show a boucle effect and ' are warranted to wear for moro than one Eeason"e ! . Veil pins are now regU'I1ectl a necessity In the up-to-date woman's lrdroJe ! Those most In favor are tiny JVelle J < J butterflies Shaded effects are Indreaalng ) rather than diminishing In favor , Oren anti brown , black and brown , and xti : i bluish gray and brown will be sk1l1tully'eni1 d , Crepon Is a name tq cnilrtre ; with this eeafJOn Crepon stockings : re among the novelties. They come Iq 1 { all [ colors and are exquisitely soft and fine tlje touch For tall evening gowns Itrlped silks will be the vogue . To obtain the correct flare and avoid lIeavlnen the skirts will have an Interlining of fibre chamois , about four- teen Inches deep , ' The young person who desires to be tsllor- made , and yet Ia an advocate of dress reform , has : her cloth waIstcoat Interlined with fiber chamois to aid In moulding her figure Into trimness .A sleeveless velvet zouave Jacket Is a pretty addition to a little girl's bright silk or woollen dress Only thg merest scrap Is required to make It and It 1 , not only pretty but comfortable on chilly ' autumn daYI All the fashionable sleeve droop well off the shoulder , and many of them fit the arm closely for a few Inches below the shoulder and then suddenly expand Into a puff TIIII 18 the latest sleeve for evening gownll The correct collar , although It may be of the turnover variety , Is quite ars tall II the I ordinary standing collar Its corners have III little slant al possible , the opening In I i front being a mere , lit , It II quito \ uncomfortable " fort.ble but ftbsolulely proper , A pretty short Jacket II made of brown box.cloth In Iloublc-brt'uto.l Ityle The turnel- over cellar la of velvet The big buttons are of smoked pearl , with a great deal of brown showing In them , The ItIllng Is R gorgeous affair of buttercup yellow The very latest skirt Is cut circular anti falls In box.plalt effect It my : measure anywhere from five to eight yards around There 19 no suggestion of any stiffening used In the lining. When silk Is too expensive for this purpose a good perea line may be used The redingote will \ 00 a feature of the fall styles , and for calling costul1\es will be made or velvet , trimmed with Jeweled passel1\en. terle , Severely plain cloth redingotes will bJ also much worn. They are made In the empire fashion and have broad revere and big pocket Tan shoes bid fair to be as popular during the fall as they have ) bt'en during the SUII\- mer. The color Is II warm , rich one , which suits the mellow season ! , and the comfort the wearers have experienced since May : In- duces them to wear the same style shoe through October. Plalll tics , both In the bow ! and the four- Inhaml style , form part of every well regu- lated tallor-malle girl's rllll wartlroJe. ! They arc better adapted to fall than summer wear because of the penetrating brllllaney ot their hues , and they are prettier In the smaller than In the larger style . The cheviots , whose popularity Is peren- nial , are eeen In loose > weaves and somewhat coarse effects , Brown and sage green antI brown and black are favorite combinations of color , The Checked cheviots make durable - able gowns allll are much the vogue They are made up severely plain and trimmed with large buttons No street glove with any claim : to distine tlon Is fastened nowada's with the small pearl button once In form , The smallest one allowable Is a well cut pearl or bone ! one approaching an old-fashioned 3 cent piece In size They range tram this to sizes a little larger than II dime They are colored to match the kid to a certain degree , Some at the fall hats have set among their ribbon bows ! bunches or bright colored berries ! , which appear at this season of the year A spray of barberries , a cluster of crimson partridge berries , a bunch of the red , seed , pod whIch come tgwn wild rose hushes In the fall , or a few bits at JItter- ! stweot berries ! arc regarded as appropriate as well as pretty alornments , There Is a tendency to male the sleeves of bicycle suits distinctly smltller 'fhe wind , has an uncomfortable habit of converting big loose sleeves Into a pair at sails and then flapping them violently about the rIder's ear The Norfolk jacket , whIch will be popular as a full substitute for the shIrt waist and blazer , Is almost Invariably seen with notice- ably dimInished sleeves. The rIbbon antI chiffon chokus which every woman , from the girl who emllloyel , eotton-baclled satin up to the dame at high degree , has worn so persistently all the summer are to be tabooed this tall , So many persons put them on over plain collars regardless ot Joinings that they acquired a rakish badly ! kept air In a little while antI are consequently not looked upon with favor A combination garment , consIsting of feather boa and shoulder cape , Is anion ; : time fall noveltIes The cape Is a short affair , extending - tending only'Or the shoulders It Is made ot carefully selected ostrich feathers , curl d at the edges , hut laid fiat upon a silk foundation . - tlon and slightly overlapping one another The cellar portion III the ordinary feather boa ! , cut abruptly at time throat Instead at hanging In dangling ends Laced boots are invariably used for walk- Ing They are made with common sense heels and , wIth toes not quite so hopeles ugly as the regulation common sense ones , and ret not quite so hopelessly aJsufl ! aa the regulation ' pointed toes The correct strings are always at silk , and there Is no excuse for the woman whose string are always a shalle lighter or a shade darker than her russet leather shoes A perfect match Is desirable - sirable and possible I'cmlntne Xoh' Mrs George Lewis of Boston thinks she Is the youngest grandmother In America Her Is 32 ' , . ' ' age ) 'ears Miss E. Thornton Clark , the sculptor , Is said to be fond at pets of all sorts , and her prime favorite Is a mouse , It Is expected that Lady Betty , wife 01 Cadet Secretary Balfour , will do her best to make his Irish ( administration popular She Is a woman ot great talent and social tact tact.Mrs. Mrs. Florence lull Wlnterburn , editor of "Childhood , " has written a volume upon child training , to be Issued In September "Nursery Ethics " ' Miss Douglas , the champion amateur markswoman of England recently scored Ilfty-seven Jull's.eyes ! In succession with I revolver at twent-flve yards' range , Mrs Bradley Heed , the chairman ot the New York City Woman's Board for the Atlantic . lantc exposition Is a beautiful little south- ern woman who was at one time a tamol\O belle ! In New Orleans , _ The Countess Caecla Plater-Zybeck , one ot time wealthiest women In nussla , has been enrolled In the guild of a master tailor ot Warsaw She Is at the head ot a cutters' school In that city and does much to hell the poor. Mrs Tompkins of Washington has a very droll shopping task She has to buy every- thing that the nine Justices at the Hupreme court can : possibly ! want for the coming year , both for comfort and utility In professional work Ralph Iron ( Olive Schreiner ) Is described ! lS a small , lively woman , with nothing of the sadness ' ot her stories Two years ago Miss 'SchreIner married Mr. Cronwrhht , a member at limo South African Colonial Parlia- ment , I Is said that , Instead ot her taking his name , he gave ! P his own for her Mrs Maud lowe Elliott , speaking of her winter In nome , says : "It was called the 'AmerIcan winter , ' because of time unusually large number ot my compatrIots visiting there Indeed a good authority has estimated that over 3,000 Americans made the Eternal City their home during the winter of 1S91.6 , and there were a delightfully large proportion at Dostonlans " The much talked of autohlcgraphy ot Mme , de Navarro ( Mary Anderson ) will be pub- IIshe.1 In the autumn ThIs book will give a very vivid account of her early struggles on the American stage The Realm , London , says : "She made her first appearance at Louisville , In Kentucky , In November , 1871 , when she was only 16 On that occasion she played Juliet , a pretty daring part for a novice of her age She made her first appearance " pearance In London at the Lyeeum In 1183 ! , and her beauty and personal charms won her much favor " 1 a Ifrhe , t4 .Ii ( On all SOCIAL . ocCi sions , , - . - . - You cannot % tb the opera without shin , k , > ' awhiffof 41.71 r PIAL 1 ow Ti1E FASHIONABLE PERFUME , Flowery , refreshin , deJicrTt1 and lasrin . For sate by druggists only , IMPERIALCRO'WN PERFUMERYCO , 6Alnr LOUIS. MEYER BROTIIERS DRUG COAGEMTS. ALSOTRY WEDDIMG BELLS ( wo new ilavt mwL crown PEACH BLOW , odors , EDUOATIONAI. NEW 'OI' CITY , Il Park W. , 66th ' et . ( adJ Central The llac t ' 0 t S chOAi I Gehool for & JlrlR da 1Ie"'nOUNT , :11 , C L MORGAN , Prlncl.all , lot Fall 00 term applclUIQt begins October I. 1 3 , l'rolvctul . . . . . _ ! ; 1 , , ; I / . , 14S\t\YV If YOtt F1trt1 stl 1 a R00111 for Fair Visitors hv 'It will pay you to get our prices for we : can and will save , you money Our price : wilt average 05 per cent lower than all competitors , while 01 Lace Cur" talus and Draperies we will save you 60 per cent. Also , remember our stock is enti'cly newVe have no Ioth- eaten carpets to show you and our Styles , and Patterns have \Vhiskers on them , Just ] look us over and you will agree that 'Ve Are the Ouly Up-to-Date "el 5 , llousc Furnishers j . IN OMAHA. \ _ _ I ® Cash a Credl / , 'p e I r N , 1 r , + ) s t' I I' I r I' 1 F I I I 1 . - - - - - ' SPCEIAL SALE : , 'i , YOUNG CUBAN PARROTS PI:1tFU'rLt' . ' 1tEAtJTl1't'L L001CkS pgltIX'TI.T.lml tt UTI I.OOUtIS and 1VAitIt.lNTID ' ' . . .t { m > . , . , . _ Only $5 Each , . i , Geisler's Bird Store , 303 No , 16th St , 0"1" , . .h e. i rsae , ' i t EXACT SIZE PERfEClJ ' ' THE MER CAN [ rLE IS THE FAVORITE TEN CENT CGA Far sale by all First Cass DcaIC'I 1lanufactu'ed by the F. R. RICE MERCANTILE CIGAR CO. , Factory No :101 : , St. Louis 11o. i - - - - - I A' THE . _ . . . _ " rdill . ' i LADIES' BATHAND TOILET PARLORS m 7 109-t to Bee Building , A FULL LINE or i MME. YALE'S COSMETICS. " . - - - - - - - - - - - - ORCHARD HOMES NO PLACE ON EARTH Offers greater advantages to tl ! intelligent seler , One-half the work you now do here will give fou ' times the results In this wonderfully proo dUltve countr ) ' . Twenty to forty acres In this land at pleny Is enough to work and Is sure to make you money Do the t worlt and the results are secured ; there Is no such thing as fRlure , The people are friendly : schools , churches , newspapers , are plenty : railroad facilities fine and a sol whose rl.hnes . : Is unsurpassed , all invite the enterprls ng man who wants to bet ter his own condition and that of his family , Two mitt Thre C'ops Can be Successfully Grown the Sammie Year Timber Is abundant-Lumber Is chenl - Fuel costs nothing-Cattle are eal raIsed and fattened-Grazing Is fine all the year , CLIMATE Is healthy and delghltulj land and sea breezes and cool nights , The mean temperature Is 42 to 66 uegrees , The average rainfall Is Ca Incites . No extreme of heat or cold ; sulclert rain averafo crops , 20 TO 40 ACRES . o properlY worked makes you more money and makes It easier than the best le.acre farm In the west Garden products are a wonderful yield and al brInK big prlccs. StrawberrIes , peaches , plums , apricots grapes . lell al figs , early apples , In fact all small fruits , are sure . and profitable crops NO DHOUTIS , NO HOT WINDS , NO FLOOD , NO HEATED 'I'ER11S , NO BLIZZARDS , NO CULl SNAPS , NO LONG COLD WINTERS , NO CROP FAILURBS . The great fruit growing and vegetable raising district of the South A roll that raises anything that grows and a locat'on ' from which YOU reach the markets of the whole cOlnt ry , Your fruits and garden truck qold on the ground and placed In Chicago St Luis and Now Orleans markets 1 to 2l hourll-In this garden spoi of America , The Most Equable Climate in America. Orchard Homes The most carefully selected lands In the best fruit and garden sections .o now offer In tracts of ten to forty acres at reasonable prices and terms to those who wish to avail themselves of the wonderful resource of the court. try now attracting the great tide at Immigration , 20 TO 40 ACRES In that marvelous region with its perfect climate and rIch sol It properel worked will make you more money and make It faster and easier than th best lG.acre farm In the west , Gard'1 ' products lire an ImmenO yIeld ! ab bring bll prices all the year round btrawberrlss , apricots , plums , peaches peas profitable , early crop apples , , figs , oranges-all small fruits-ate an early and very GO SOUTH . GO SOUTH This Is your opportunity , The people are friendlY : schools enlclentl news papers progressive : churches liberal , The enterprising man * ho wants better the condition of himself and hiy family , should investigate this m t ter and he wilt be convinced Carefully selected frutt grotylag end garden frU\t \ lands In tracts of 10 to 2 acres we now offer on liberal terms And reason ela . prlcn Correspondence solicited , CEOIVI \ AMES , General Agent , t6t7 Farunrt St. , Omaha , Net .