J8 THIS OMAITA DAILY BER3 ; SUNDAY , JULY 7 , 1805.
WOMAN'S DOMAIN.
9Itl.HU.MMKH 1-ASIIIO.NS.
retching Novelties fur Street ami House
Wear.
NEW YORK , July D. A plajn skirt and
what Is known as a "dinner coat" Is the
model of a black silk sown late from Paris.
The quality of silk Is peau do sol , whoso
Batlny surface and soft pliable texture seem
to combine the splendors of satin with the
Virtues of silk , and the skirt has the spread
ing umbrella look of all Trench skirts now
adays. The cut of the coat border * strongly
on the Louis XIV. order , being smartly
flared In the tall and opening over a vest as
was'the farhlon of that period.
Imiricnso Jt "buttons " picked out with gilt
ornaments the fronts , which hang slightly
loose at the waist from the under arm seams ;
the back fits snugly Into the figure , and
under the email revcra of the coat buttons
are * sowed , to vhlch ornamental revers of
eatln In some ay color may bo attached
for fe tlvo occasions. The dinner coat Illus
trated shows thcso revera attached. They
nre In a deep butter yellow , the bag vest
bslng of crepe In the same shade , and made
exceedingly becoming at the bust line by
yellow ribbon drawn across and knotted at
the loft.
A clever woman who has Just returned
from French shores has a coitume made In
this way , which she declares Is the most
useful and economical model ever known for
modeit folk ,
Through a change of vests and rovers
nlono It can be made to fit almost any oc
casion and look equally suitable on all.
Besides two- low cut evening vests , with
accompanying revere , and ornamental cuff
pieces , a smart one of mauve pique turned
the fine dinner coat Into a dressy morning
nltalr. One of spangled batiste with a great
spreading collar of the same makes It possi
ble for either afternoon or evening , while
a low double-breasted one of black satin ,
with a high upper portion of black mousse-
line de solfe In crossed bertha folds , gave It
that elcganlly simple air that seems to suit
all nlomcnU.
Another useful rig of many possibilities
brought oVer -from 1'arls Is a street costume
of'mohair- a beautiful huckleberry blue.
Mohair la Iff Paris the texture at present
most seen In plain street gowns , and tho"
favorite tnbdel Is a plain skirt and a box
coal&Svlth' Wk In one piece.
Sometimes- this will hang plain from a
pointed yoke , but In almost every case two
Itttte .openings are left at the bottom of the
uf&eiiarm .seams , making the silts seen In
nf&ounne - blouse or shirt bottoms. Close
stitching gives all edges a neat tailor finish ,
aiid'wherq the seams of some of the skirts
will bo left plain , others will be strappsd
over with narrow bands of the same ma
terial. The model of the skirt Is a godeted
back and a front cut of the width of the
material , which runs two bias seams Into
the back , and produces at the sides that
outward flirt so becoming and so easy to the
feet. The buttons used will b ° great things
ns big as butter plates , of smoked psarl ,
horn , or fancy metal , and oven those of
Dresden china , giyly flowered , are said to
bo In good taste. .
Again , a mohair gown will show no buttons
nt all , the fronts of the single-breasted Jacket
fastening neatly under a stitched flap , such
as finishes a man's box coat.
As for the Trench mohairs themselves , they
are most beautiful. The handsomest patterns
are enormously wldo and In a loose sort of
bunting weave , and not even In black do they
suggest the shiny funereal things one Is ac
customed to associate with the name. In
color the huckleberry blue Is perhaps the
latest tint , but a more gracious and becoming
one Is n soft wavy brown that seems
especially effective when worn with a blouse
in any of the gentle greens now fashionable.
One brown mohair gown , that has just
made Its debut In New York , has a bodice
In crlnked silk , patterned gorgeously and con-
'fusedly with palm loaves In many colors. It
was simply gathered at the neck and waist
Into n belt and stockof black satin rlbbont
and the sleeves , which were entirely without
stiffening ; fell In a great loose puff three-
quarter length.
This palm leaf silk , together with gauze
patterned In the same way. Is the very latest
French fad for waists. In some of the gauzea
the tones are wonderful , great splotches of
flame shading Into emerald green , and again
melting Intq effects that are almost brown ,
No.trlmmlijgs are used with them , the many
colorings of the texture being the point Intended -
' tended for notice. There i always a plain
ribbon stock and belt , however , and some
times these will reproduce a predominating
Qnt In the gauze , emerald green , a flame red ,
or eUe an orange liue that U positively start
ling.
Indeed , If one Is to Judge from the bodies ,
and some of the flower decked hats that come
ver to us from Paris , color Is to be more nncl
more the thing as the season advances.
Hats , big and little , are simply laden down
with gay posleo. In some cases , with the ex-
Option of a narrow fold of velvet that face :
tie under brim , there Is not a ray of othei
trimming , and the blossoms will be massed
irrespective of tint or degree.
Modest daisies , for Instance , will hobnot
with gorgeous flags , and haughty orchids rut
elbows with flsld violets.
Again , on n single low crowned sailor hal
there will be Ivy leaves with the violets , and
besides , a wrcp.th of roses with loose tremb
ling petals , that shade all the way froir
palest pink to a red so deep that It Is almoai
D1NN13H COAT.
like the black of the famous German tullj
Sometimes , Indeed , there \\lll l > o a black ro ;
under a brim and with much color above th
never falls to be effective.
Dark women , Uio pale , romantic sort , ai
wearing hats with white flowers , white ll
roses and gardenias \\lth thick , uaxy gre *
leave ? . These last are espvcUlly becoming i
brunettes and It Is remarked that they con
blno uelllth sunbuint straw and blue
ostrich feathc'n ; though no more than thn
gardenias eem to be used at ono time , tw
on the outside of the bat and ono under tl
brim , which , If waved , may hold the bio
sruii straight in front , or elie loosely at tl
side back as If U were thrust in the br'r
With blup black locks they re very fetchln
And sine * the iluclioss of Mirlbcrough h ;
already made them fathlanable In Kngtat
it doubtless won't bo long before they are tl
rape In New York.
At present they are rare and corr
ipondlugly precious and desirable.
Other points on dress , gathered en pa
Bant , are that iporty girls are given to co
ton shirt waists with -white pique collars at
cuff * and thit many fair cyclists who wish
be cpol are having blouse : made of cci
poncte. Awhim for blcyrle tklrti i
have the skirt button up on ons side of tl
f front , which enablca the rider when on
lonely road , towhip oft her petticoat wit
f out lining U orer her head which It ieerai
I * vary nauabty and to go alone unnampor
to ber llttla knickers.
Rummer underwear and negligee * ere
nioro lovely day by day nd the rtaln
figured balbtea and dimities keep the U ;
with lauUrlali.
The dmtlng ucqti shown li on of tl
pewnt and matt beoomlnK models for U
eiabrol
UJSJ EiJ EiJ LBJ piHSJ Eil isl EJ EiJEllisJ l iU
ered with led spots land red finishing the
scalloped edge. fy
A word more about the skirts of the
mohair street suite1. They arc made up en
tirely without lining. A bias facing half a
yard deep and an Interlining of bias grass-
cloth the same width , finishes the bottom
alone and a trick of French dressmakers Is
.0 t-tretcli both dress and facing In putting
: hem together. This- intakes the flare at the
jottcm even more marked and gives the
skirt n delightfully easy "set. " At the top
of the facing there are three rows of close
stitching. NINA FITCH.
IVO.Mi : > H'.lYljOlKM. '
Juecr Clam of Ilrni'ilo -Money Lenders 111
London.
"Perhaps you wllllUc surprised when I tell
you that there are such people as women
money lenders , as some of my poor parish-
loners know to their cost , " remarked a hard
working London curjtta to a correspondent of
.ho Cleveland Leader. * "Thcso woman there
are two In my pariah out-Shylcck , Shylcck.
Two ponce Is the usual charge lor the loan of
a shilling for a wce ; , or , rather often , It Is
not a week , but for a shilling borrowed any
time through a week , 1 shilling 2 pence Is
expected on the following Saturday. Women
are their only customers , and tTiey make very
few bad debts , as those who borrow gener
ally do so without their husbands' knowledge ,
and , consequently , are only too anxious to
repay as soon as they nre able , or else the
lender would soon threaten to 'split' to their
husbands. Uesldcj/some of these people are
EO In the habit of borrowing 2 or .1 shillings
country , whose buildings occupy n whole
block , there at present 100 day scholars and
nlnaty boarding pupils. As the price for
each house pupil Is $1,000 n year there Is
$90,000 to begin with. Every day wholar
of the ago of 15 Is charged $300 per annum ;
allowing for some of them being under that
age , there Is $25,000 more to ndd. Mut'lc
Is extra , $250 a year being asked for piano
with practice hours allowed , while Instruc
tion In singing , violin , mandolin , or harp Is
$5 a lesson. Piano practice alone is $36 for
the school season , which has grown very
short of late In all these schools , not begin
ning untjl October and ending the 1st of
June. '
No deduction Is marie for entering school
after It opens , or for subsequent absence ,
except In cases of severe and protracted
Illness , where the loss Is divided. There are
also vacations amounting to about four
weeks , when the pupil Is supposed to go
home , or pay extra for the privilege of re
maining at school.
Some of theFO select and modish Insti
tutions adopt the plan of chirglng J3DO a
year outright , which Includes Instruction In
all the Kngllsh branches , also/French , Latin
and Greek , but everything else Is extra.
And oh ! how tluse extras pile up. Is It any
wonder these high-class school inarms amass
fortunes ! To begin with , every bill must ba
footed In advance , then a deposit must b3
left with the school's head to meat Incidental
expenses.- Madam School Mann has a long
head on her and does not Intend to ba left
In the lurch.
Kach student Is required to furnish bor
own towels , napkins , sheets and pillow
cases. A few of the extras are music at
$10 psr annum , drawing , painting at $70
CRISP , COOL FHOCKS.
every week that Ihey are afraid. If they do
not repay the borrowed money on the Saturday
their borrowing powers would bo at an end.
For a sovereign loaned a shilling a week In
terest Is charged until the money Is all re
paid , and not less than 2 shillings a week Is
taken by way of Installment toward repay
ment of the loan. If any week the Install
ment Is missed , the interest must be paid ,
and -reduction Is made In the Interest as
the principal Is reduced. A woman Is often
cajoled Into taking some article of finery
from the Irropre tblo , tallyman , thinking she
'
will bo able to 'pay for .tho article by the
'easy * installment , plan , -so glibly explained
to her. Getting behind for two or three
weeks In ber payments , the credit draper
ihreatena to summon her husband. To avoid
this the woman goes to the money lender ,
who 'obliges1 her with a sovereign , on condi
tion that she repays 3 shillings a week for ton
weeks.
'It Is not often that these female usurers
will lend more than a sovereign at a time.
However , In the case of a person dying , and
pending the benefit of Insurance money being
received , they will lend 3 or 4 to the be
reaved family , frequently demanding as much
as 1 for the use of 4 for a week.
"One of the money lenders to whom I refer
deals only with female hawkers and street
rollers. Owing to the prtcarlonsnoas of their
calling , thcso people constantly find them
selves without the wherewithal to purchase
tlielr stock In trade. On a Friday evening as
many as ten fo fifteen women 'will borrow
sums varying.from S to SO shillings in order
to make their purchases at the early markets
on the following morning. On a Saturday
evening , toward'midnight , the money lender
makes the roiiuds _ of her clients' stalls , often
taking every -penny from the stallholder ,
which forces , the haw leer to trade on Sunday
morning. 'V ?
"It hardly seems credible , but one of these
money lenders can neither read nor write ,
keeping account of all money due to her In
her head with unfailing accuracy. The
woman is an Unbeliever In the stability of
banks , and always carries her stock In trade
on her person ; a not Inconsiderable sum , seeIng -
Ing that ono wecK , she told me , she had lent
$135 In odd shillings. "
AN OriiLK.NT I'llOFKBSlOX.
Tearhlng the Alom 1'rontulile CallluR in
Which Women Kngagr.
After all the Wfc\ about the new woman
and her usurpation of the place of the
stronger sex , It is not in competition with
the men that she makes her success. She
cannot enter the Held against the masculine
doctor , lawyer'or b'ank president with any
hope of equals-results , but In the good old
fashioned femlnlno professions , such as school
teaching , dressmaking and their like , the
woman of today finds occupation that may
bo maJo more profitable than most people
dream of.
School teaching offers the widest and most
delightful scoperof all , for In this work the
women folk hold 'such a position as com
mands universalI jospoct now as always , and
they are looked up to Instead of down upon
by ttio wo.-ld In general , vhose regard for
Uo dresrmaklng profession h sometimes of a
negative nature. In educating the youth
ful feminine mind Is ma'e some of the big
gest fortunes , of the times. Of course this
refers to the boarding school , for In the day
school alore there is very little profit.
U go 3 with put faying that the farslghted
proprietor of a young ladiei * school offers
great attraction's to wealthy parents who
wish their children trained for social duttet.
Once a week there Is nn Imposing evening
function , when the students. In full droaa ,
receive their friends and are expected to play
the part of hostess. Uach detail of deport
ment Is observed , commentej upon and the
strictest ctlquett ? ii snforctd.
Then , of course , the pupils live in an at
mosphere of luxury equal to that of their
homes. Maids attend the glrU to pack and
unpack their boxes , to do their hair and
offer a thousand and one greatful little at
tentions that I * ; pa and mama are naturally
expected to pay liberally for.
Among some parents there is a craze for
suburban schools In which to place their
daughters. They -aro looked upon as being
more healthful and at being far from the
maddening crowd , while they are near
enough to the city to enjoy all Us advantages.
Other parents prefer the oclat of the city
school. The expense ateither pl ce Ii equal
for the parents , bat leu for the bead of the
school , for naturally liouu rant and other
commodities are- cheaper In the country than
In tie great commercial ernt'ts. Hut blessed
Ii the aforesaid bud of acy * cliool who hai
succeeded In catching the popular favor , her
puriwj string * must be tang iml * d there
after to stretch to contain ber revenue * .
In one cf tb "smartest" schools In tbli
up , dancing , riding , carriage and messengei
hire , seat In church at $25 , fuel from $5 tt
$ S , meals In room 25 cents ; each , extra
charge for care In sickness and fqr'breakage '
' '
and wear of Wrnlture'and'premise's , washlnp
$1 a dozen , extra lectures $10 a year and
ono surmises the lecturer Is employed at :
moderate price and all the surplus cash goes
nto the school exchequer , with a quantity
of other Incidental extras arising from indi
vidual requirements.
In a school of 190 pupils the extras tnkei
altogether mus amount to $10.000. This
brings the annual Income received up tc
$125,000. _ , „ , „ ,
DIG EXPENSB3 AND PIG PROFITS
Now , as regards the expenditures ? of sucl ;
a fashionable Institution. The whole menagi
Is run -on a first-class scale , the table
service and all appointments being unex
ceptional. The house rent Itself mur ;
amount to some $25,000. the running expense !
must mount up to another $25,000. Teachsri
employed In these elegant establishments re
celve proverbially small Mlarley , ranglni
from $200 to $1,000 a year ; $500 and boart
are looked upon as Ilberfl.'So allowlr
$25,000 again for teachers' salaries , schoi
supplies and other Incidental outlays , a cle :
sum 'of $5.0,000 Is left as .net profit at tl
closa of the school year. " And how mar
successful business men can show a slmlli
bank account when all Is said and done ;
the close of their season ? '
TH1UJE AMKIUCAN OU/ICES.
The Maryland Slstara Who .Married. En ;
Dili > ohl < inirn.
A tract of land comprising about 156 acri
Just outside the western limits of Baltlmo
City , in the Thirteenth district of Qaltlmo
oounty , and south of St. Agnes' hospital at
St. Mary's Industrial school , was offered fi
sale at auction recently at the Heal Esta
exchange , but was withdrawn after five sms
parcel ? . Including forty-two acres , bad let
purchased at an average price of 5327 i
acre.
acre.The property , says the DaHljnnre Sun , Is
portion of the landn owned in Maryland 1
the late duchess of Leeds , a granddaught
of Charles Carroll of Carrollton. and ilaught
of Ulchard Caton , after whom the town
Catonsville vras named.
The Duchess died In 1874 and In her w
directed that the real estate owned by her
tills country should be dispoeedot : by fctr e
ecutore , and the money \hus s'ecarsil ijhf'u
be used for the purchase of real c&Uto
England , all of which , together wPh tl
English realty which she posiejsed at U
time of her death , was bequeathed fcr life
the marquis of Carmarthen , which Is tl
courtesy title of the heir to the flukcdcm
Leeds. The present holder of Uio title Is tl
grandson of a cousin of tha duc'i"93' liusbiii
she having died without children.
The property put up at auction jtsUrJi
li but a part of the estates In tc\r
counties In Maryland which came to lit-r/io
Charles Carroll of Carrollton and li
daughter.
The duchess of Lecdi was "i\e \ of the Ihr
famous daughters of Rlchird Cat'jn , ivl
from their beauty and clipmu were rlt
called "The Three American Grace > . " Tin
became the wlvei of members of ; hj Brill
nobility. Louisa Catherine , thit ilucHeM
Leeds , was the youngest of the trio. Ma
Caton , the eldest , was at first ti ! < s w'lo
Richard Patterson of Baltimore , brothtr
Mme. Elizabeth PatUrsoii'lliimiurte , but
lf > 25 became the second -nits rl tiio fame
marquU ot Welleiley , elder brother of tl
still more famous duke of Wellington. Eliza
beth Caton was married In 1S3G to Sir George
William Stafford-Jernlngham , Haron Stafford.
The duchess was herself wedded twlcf. She
was first married In 1817 to Sir Fclton Klwcll
Uathurst-Hcrvcy , n colonel In the army and
nn aide-de-camp on Wellington's staff at the
battle of Waterloo , The following year her
husband was made baronet , but In 1319 he
tiled and In 182S his widow became the wlfo
of Francis Godolphln D'Arcy Oaborno ,
marquis of Carmarthen anil oldest con of th
sixth duke of Leeds. He succeeded his father
In the dukedom In 1S3S and died in 1871 at
the age of 82. She was the last of tha three
slaters to die. The marchioness of Welleslcy
had died In 1S53 and Lady Stafford In 1802.
None of tjiem hail nliy children ,
The duchess wds a philanthropic woman
and during her lifetime used much of her
share of the eptatej w'hlch she and hpr sisters
Inherited equally from their mother and
grandfather In ciiLilillshlng and supporting
two orphanages , rine'for boys at Mnyfields , In
Oounty Sussex , Kngland , nnd one for glrU
nt nictchlngly , lnstho same country. In her
will she provided ; liberally for these two in
stitutions , whlclifl-firo , under the control of
Roman Catholic orders , nnd also gave Arch
bishop Manning jp,00 for the maintenance ,
support and educajllijn9or young men studying
for holy orders l tha Catholic church.
Richard Caton , the , father of the "Three
Graces , " was ann13ogll8hman , who came to
Baltimore In 17S5. { , ,
IMK.'tfO S I.IK i.
The Summer Wa'f fnro and How to Conquer
, .ii Y l.
Housekeepers are , always glad of any In
formation which will helpsthem to conquer
those enemies of their summer's peace flies.
Here are two Items which experience has
proved of use In HID battle.
We all know how lllss settle upon a screen
door In rainy weather , or upon those of tha
kitchen In any weather , walling for on oppor
tunity to illp in as soon as It Is opsned.
If a cloth dlpp.d In kerosene is rubbed over
the outer side of tha wire and frame of the
screen the Hies will not cettle upon It , They
do not like kerosene. On ; application will
usually prove effectual for several days/
The other agent oil of lavender is for
the purpose of disposing of such of the enemy
as have already gained an entrants * to the
house.
Darken all the windows but one. The flies
will soon congregate' upon that , for Ulas
enjoy sunshine as thoroughly 43 moths detsat
it. Now with an atomizer spray tli3 window
cislng with the oil of lavender and either
leave the open bottle upon the sill or saturate
a small cloth with some of It. The files will
coon become etupofiedr and can then b
brushed down and. disposed of. If an atomizer
U not at hand , rub the casing with the sat
urated cloth. It is also a good plan to rub
the oil over any place that the lilts particu
larly like to light upon. A hanging lamp has
often a great attraction for them , but If the
shade and chains are rubbed over with the
oil they will notllKlit _ upon It.
U UU I1T 'lo UK I1A1TY.
' ortuucs HjM'nt hy Young 'Matrons on Their
HnrilrobpR.
Many of the young matrons who are promi
nent In the social world of Now York spend
small fortunes yearly on their wardrobes.
Mrs. Theodore Havemeyor probably spends aa
much to' gratify her whims and fancies as
any other woman In the United States. She
orders an opera cloak , costing S2.000 , and a
bunch of orchids nt $600 with an air of ease
and as much pleasant famlllarltv as the av-
eraga New York woman would display In
> aying her car fare.
Mrs. Fred Vanderbllt spends at least ? 50-
)00 for herself , but a portion of this is said tc
bo used In her various philanthropic under-
aklngs.
Much of Mrs. John Jacob Astor's $40,00 (
a year Is expended for jewelry. Her collec
tion of diamonds Is one of the largest am
finest in America.
Mrs. George Gould has a dress allowanc <
of $30,000 a year , and her costume * are with
out exception expansive and in elegant taste
She has an especial fail for opera cloaks , om
of the most beautiful in her collection havlni
cost $6,000.
Mrs. Van Uensselaer .Cruger , although i
shade old-fashioned , jn ber style , Is nlwayi
dressed in perfect taste and has a specla
penchant for ullk- -
Miss Helen ( iQulilpolways buys the mos
expensive material for gowns , but is usuall ;
dressed with puritanical severity , wherea :
her sister , the famous , young countess , is verj
fond of showy cdstumes , and made heavy Inroads
'
roads on her enormous Income to 'gratify he
love of adorning"nature. .
Other society woifien who spend immonsi
sums of money on themselves are Mrs. El
bridge T. Oerrn Mrs. Adolph Ladenburg
Mrs. Ormo VVilson and Mrs. E. -Morgan. .
The twine or putty-colored grass linen fab.
rlcs are far more , fashionable than becoming
Large white Dollars and fronts of lace
trimmed lawn on batiste nre worn with blacl
or dark silk gowns , < ,
Batiste laces , -wrought on a delicate ne
ground , are much , used to trim organdie , ecn
lawny , and similar transparent fabrics.
Immense sailor collars of white embrold
ered muslin or pique are oddly worn as tin
sole decoration of black mohair or alpac :
gowns.
Silk muslin frills edged with narrow lac
and crimped or accordion-pleated are dell
cate and effective garnitures for summe
dancing toilets. A fall ot lace reaches fron
elbow to wrist on sleeves of this description
to ba worn In the daytime without gloves
One yard of Jace Is used for each sleeve , am
this lace is usually from ten to twelve Inchei
deep.
deep.The
The popularity of skirts Distinct In cole
and material from the bodices they accom
pany Is still largely maintained , and th
fashion will last all summer and during th
autumn season , If not throughout the entlr
year.
Evening silks having exquisitely tlntei
pompadour bouquet ? on a cream , ivory white
or very light-colored ground are exceeding ! ;
popular this season. Gowns made of thes
fabrics are trimmed with satin ribbon an
polnt.de Venlse lace.
The full Queen Anne sleeve , forming- enlarge
large full puff that reaches to the elbow , I
the chosen summer model for evening toilets
or those of a dresuy character to be worn li
the afternoon , or at day fetes and receptions
with long-wrlsted gloves.
Among the laces that are In greatest favo
this season are point de Venise , Moresque
Chantllly , pont de Milan , Droderie AnglaUe
Valenciennes , point d'Irlandos , many new an
dainty design ? In Oriental lace and insertion !
Dourdon and point de Paris.
Many of the pretty pale-tinted silks in tal
feta that are made Into fancy waists or entire
tire costumes have the background of th
silk covered with shaded Dresden patterns I
Chine effects , with hairlines of a contrastln
color forming stripes from a quarter to bal
an inch in width.
White alpaca costumes will be In particuU
favor during July and August at garde
parties , the races , and at all fashlonabl
summer resorts. For day wear they ar
made up simply , with vests or blouse front
of fancy glace silk. For evening they ar
combined with white satin brocade or flon
ered taffeta.
Dlack satin or lustrouv silk skirts are fln
choice , and one may wear half a dozen dlffei
ent waists with such a skirt , and tbe eilec
produced Is that of as many distinct gowm
With large lace berthas , ribbon braces , fane
sailor collars , and similar accessories , on
may still further vary the appearance ot tl ;
waists severally.
Dressy afternoon gowns of figured Frenc
lawn are made with five gored skirts full I
the back , and finished -with a deep hei
beaded by a single band ot lace Insertloi
Tbe walWt are box-pleated , and the pleal
and the Immense sailor collar with polnte
fronts , that reach to the belt , are edged wit
pale yellow Valenciennes lace.
Emerald green . 'spangles ' on black silk Je
ted net , drape ! over golden grei % satli
formed a very striking waist made in bloui
fashion , with Immehse Queen Anne sleeve
also ot Uie net covered satin. There wax
spangled colar and girdle , and the waist wi
worn with a skirtof black satin , with
bl > lrl border of jit four Inches wide.
Many of the Itn'nontd ' Jackets this summi
are made of fancy Im-cloth showing a whlc
collar andrefers ) , and fastened Mil
1 buttons with clrc
Urge inotuer-of-paa a
or cut steel at the idge. These jacket * ai
mostly In open f on ted effects of she ,
length , and -with f ill flaring skirts. Tl
box cloth Is of a , pile shade as a rule , ar
thu wrap iscalled t la Red fern beach jacke
Very dainty jackets for afternoon teas
inada of India mull worn over low-neck (
underbodtes and gored skirts of golden grec
or Fenian maure illk. The ekirt lits li
Bortlons of lace , and the full waist Is trimmed
lavishly with rows of the lace nnd great
loops and falling ends ot satin ribbon the
color ot the underdrcss , with a sash of the
same falling from' the edge of the waist ,
which fastens at the b.tck.
Valenciennes lace both white nnd butter-
colorej Is u&ed In n moit lavish manner
upon nearly every article of summer dress.
Lawn nnd organdie gowns are elaborately
decorated with both wide and narrow pattern -
tern < i of this lace. These -gowns tire ns ex
pensive. In a strict sense ns silk , tor the cost
of freshening them when soiled In excessive ,
and the process has to bo repeated through
out the season If much use is made ot the
dresses.
The French zephyr ginghams are really
beautiful nnd make charming beach or moun
tain costumes. The fancy linen ducks and
Tovlot suitings and piques nre especially
Dutiable for morning wear , and , the pale
bltvs Muck suits dotted or strlpzd In white
make very neat nnd pretty utility costumes
with tailor hats en suite. These ducks and
drills nppear In tan , ecru , blue , cream , and
pura white variously figured. These nro
niHilo with plain gored skirt , natty Trilby
Jacket npsn In front , huge sleeves , and a
double breasted vest ot white plqua with
sailor collar to match ,
The daintiest of all pretty tilings which
ashlon has to offer are seen In the display
f quaint little gowns , cloaks , hats , nnd bon-
lets for very small children. Small coats
or babies from ono to four years old are
indo full , with longer waists than those of n
'ear ago , nnd round capes which absorb nil
he trimming. Ilengallnc , In white and the
> ale shades of blue and pink , Is a very pop-
ilnr material , and added to this are the col-
red an.d white piques and fancy flannel ,
nil the little repfor jackets made of white
Ilk give n baby of two years quite a grown-
ip air. nut mere picturesque than all arc
he little , or rather , large , bonnets and hats ,
or the smaller the child the larger the
bonnet seems to be.
PAinttilnu Note * .
Mrs. Paran Stovns ownsd what was prob-
bly ths most valuable set of amethysts'
4cw York.
The memoirs of the Empress Eugenic ,
vhloh- are almost completed , will not bs pub-
Ished-untll after h-r death.
Mlss Helen Frcrst of New Orleans , a so
lely leader , beautiful and accomplished , is ,
n architect , the first woman architect In her
native city.
Vassar snt out this last commencement
he largest class in the history ot the In.-itl-
utlon , 100 young women receiving the ile-
giee of 11. A.
Mrs. Esther Morris of Wyoming Is cue of
he ton rt'leg tqj at largo elected tram that
itato. to the National Convention of Repub-
Ican Lea'gue clubs at Cleveland. New York
leelcd one woman delegate.
Mrs. Clio Hlnton iHuneker , who Is said
0 be only 24 years old. Is to receive $10,000
or her Fremont statue which she Is to exe
cute for the Associate Pioneers of California.
Mrs. Huneker Is a pupil of St. Gaudens.
The University of Aberdeen is nbout to
confer the degree LL.D. on Miss J. E. Harrl-
Cn , in recognition of her researches In Gresk
archeology. Miss Harrison will be tha first
voman to receive this degree from a LirltUh
tnlverslty.
Mrs. Frances Hodgson Hurnstt and Mrs.
a Chandler Moulton were the American
vrltera who were of the company Invlleil
> y the New Vagabonds , a man's club , in Its
recent dinner , In London , to leading "l.idy
luthors. "
Mrs. W. K. Vanderbllt o\\ns a sMlng of
diamonds which Is unique in deilgii and of
enormous valu ? . It is so long that she trme-
Imes wears It wound like a rope around her
corsage. It Is composed of large diamonds
pierced with pigeon-blood rubles strung be
tween them.
Tacoma claims the only woman custom-
louse broker on ths Northern Pacific coast.
She is Miss Florence I ) . Moffatt , daughter
of a steamboat captain , and Is said to be ac-
Ivoly Interested In shipping Interests , and
: o know more on the mntltrs of transporta-
: lon and commerce than many men In ths
business.
Loulso Mannhelmer of Chicago , who ap
pears to have an astonishing amount of ac-
; lvlty , has translated Nahlda Remy's boofc
on "The Jewish Woman. " Nahlda Ileiny Is
a Christian , though recently she has united
liarselt with Judalbin by marrying an elderly
Hebrew scholar , but , while of Gentile blood ,
she has absorbed the full sentiment of Jew
ish life , and has written her panegyric ol
Jewish women with a warm and faithful
pen.
pen.A
A recent graceful act of Queen1 Margherlu
B being duly chronicled. Once a year slit
[ > ays a visit to the girls' mission schools It
Home. She arrived the-o one day last weeJ
lit an1 open carr'age , anl following came twi
others tWffto overflowing with masses of ox
qulslto flayers ; these she ordered should b :
driven Into the school gardens. When al
the pupils and teachers had assembled shi
handed to each a lovely boquet with tin
laughing word : "Last year you all pro
sentcd me with flowers ; it is quite tm ! tha' '
1 revenged myself. "
Mrs. Putter Palmer was the guest recenXl >
of the Writers' club In London , at afternooT
tea. The London reporters greatly admlrt
our countrywoman and describe with en-
Ihuslasm her "picturesque white hair and hei
thorough knowledge of the art ct dies ; . '
At this latest function Mrs. Palmer wore i
smart gown of cornflower blue crepon , will
Mdlce of lace embrolie.'y and b'coming litth
toque. The reception was a handsome ant
successful affair and Included the preaenct
of many of London's notab'es.
It was an interesting occasion when tbt
other day , at the home of Mrs. Lexow Ir
Nyack , Mme. Hanna Korany lectured befort
: ho Thursday Reading class , whoso preiUen
Mrs. Lexow Is. Mme. Korany's subject wa !
The Moslem at Homo and Abroad , " am
her talk was as usual practical and valuabli
and full of dry wit that Is most Illumlnat
Afterward the gifted Syrian had ai
interview with the husband nnd her hostess
In which , to quote Mme. Korany's prettll ]
broken English , "I learned many Informa
lions regarding party politics from Ser.ato :
Lexow. "
Mrs. Wlggln Is an admirable woman-
beautiful In person , gracious in manner
brilliant in intellect and kindly In heart. Fev
writers have given more genulno and nn
alloyed pleasure through their books thai
she has , and to a more varied clientele th <
young and the old , the joyous an I the tor
rowful , the learned and the unlearned. Mr *
Wlg'gln"wa's married a few weeks ago ti
George Christopher Rlggs and will spend tin
cummer In England. Her eyes are as blue
her hair as golden and her temper as sunn :
as In the days when In San Francisco sin
won the heaita of the newsboys and strce
urchins.
Agnes Booth has returned from her firs
visit to the other aide , considerably tllsen
chanted. Bite said that all her illusion
were spoiled In Paris. The rooms wer
small and the furniture dreadful , and In th
pensions she did not have space to breathe
And she found to her dligust that the Frenc !
did not know how to make coCtee , for It wa
mostly chicory. The grlsettes were merel ;
New York shop girls , without the shop KlrU
style. The bdulevards were miles o
scrubby little streets , and the Paris street
were monotonous. Most of the theater
were odious places , small , badly ventllatei
and regular mantraps in case of fire.
"The three pretty Jerome girls , " as the ;
have been called , have lived so much I
England that they have almost forgotte
that they were born In New York. Th
loveliest of the three. Jennie , married In 187
the late Lord Randolph Churchill , brothe
of the eighth duke of Maryborough , He
ladyship's very comfortable London hous
Is 2 Connaught place , and many granil en
tertalnments have been Given there , no
merely to the social set , but to further th
political alms and Interests of her late bus
band. Her interest In that jx > werful ci
ganlzatlon. the Primrose league , has alway
been most keen , and as ono of the dame
she is known to most of the women of Ens
land. She Is a very great favorite wit
the queen , and when her husband was undo
secretary ot state for India her majesty Ir
vrtted her with the order of tbe Crown t
India.
\Tlmt 'Womrn Arti Oolnc.
A jury of Kentucky women will judge
breach of promise suit against a woman ,
Philadelphia has a girl whose visiting car
U quite a conundrum * Her name Is May I
Easy , Her young man does not want to glv
her up.
Harriet Jayne lias been a patient of Belli
me hospital. New York , for forty years an
has been admitted for treatment at least 1C
times.
Miss Carrie Lleblg. a division Burgeon c
tbe Northern Pacific at Hope , laho , is th
first woman physician to be appointed In tli
railway service ,
Mil * Ilcte rievelsnd , * ist < r of tie preslden
1 * gray > hslrtl aw ) hat plMiant i tt Sh
U rather ! > ' ' I"1- - ' " l i' 1 c >
cellcnt , and she Is invariably attired accord
ing to the latest fashions ,
The woman's movement hns reached the
ancient city ot Cologne , A society was or
ganized for the purpose ot utablMiIng n
school for the training of girls i6r mercantile
branches nnd for educational work ,
Sir Henry Irving declares that one of the
moit singular sights he witnesses from the
t'tnge Is the apathy In applause of the women
who nre among his slncerest admlrtrs
ns compared with the demonstrations of the
men ,
"Tho consciousness of being well drcssptl
gives n woman a senna of satisfaction which
the confohtlon of religion cinnot afford , " Is
a remark credited to nn Intellectual Iloston
dame. "I'd rather bo well dressed than go lo
heaven , " said nn Irreverent Now York woman
ha other day.
Mrs. Harriet needier Stowe's health Is
letter than It was on her birthday last year ;
icr appHlte \ excellent and her strength
such that she U ( o ba seen dally during
ho beautiful June , weather talking with her
Utemlant on Forest Btreet , Hartford , where
s olstuatcl her pleasaut home.
In Springfield , Mo. , thirty years ago , Mrs.
olin R. Kclso wore bloomers and Introduced
he fashion. However , the fashion was not
ollowed. Mrs. Kclso was the wlfo of the
congressman and soldier whose name carried
error throughout southwest Missouri , as he
ollshed nothing better than killing his man ,
t Is said that Mrs. Kclso wore bloomers on
ler husband's orders ,
Mrs. Elizabeth E. Iluttcr , who has just died
n Philadelphia , was widely known as the
ilonecr In many philanthropic movements In
'ennsylvanla. She was the widow of Rev.
) r. IS. W. Iluttcr , once editor of the Lan
caster Intelligencer , nnd afterward private
secretary of President Hnclmnan and as
sistant secretary of state. During the war
drs. Huttcr frequently went to the front ,
rendering valuable service to the wounded
ind suffering. She took a conspicuous part
n the great Sanitary fair held In Phila
delphia In 18G1 , acting as president of the
committee of labor , Income nnd revenue. She
s credited with having ral&d $250,000 for the
air. She was the first woman to cross the
Ins after the desperate three days' battle of
Jettysburg. She went In a car provided by
resident Scott of the Pennsylvania rail
road , and by special permission of President
Lincoln.
TUli VW/.XJ IM//J.
Written for The Ilee.
They say her smile wus bweutcst when she
lay
In that enthralling power whoso guise Is
sleep ,
Ami I remember now It was bor way
To smllu In slumber ile p !
Yet when I pressed the Imml that lay so
still.
And oilled : ber name nnd smoothed ber
pretty hair ,
She nnsworod not nor soothed with her
sweet will
My fond heart's crushing care.
[ Tow softly Iny the laces on her breast
Methought sbevan ? o lovely In repose
That surely Paradise was still more blessed
In claiming my sweet rosu.
A rose that thrived In sunshine or In shade
Until at length death touched the tender
bloom
And withered It Just when It would have
stayed
To brighten In the gloom.
And then nt this my heart fell crushed nnd
blind ;
I was Injt conscious of that vapue unrest
Ar.J ceaseless yearning that doth till the
mindWhen
When brooding Death Is guest.
Dear patient girl who was so loth to hear
A single won ! against my ruthless ways
And who will guide mo now with gentle
fearAnd
And who will .speak my praise ?
Oh , still she sleeps . . . The jasmine
blooms ns then ,
Anil nature bears its warm life from the
deeps ,
Anil summer birds sing lightly once again
But Btlll , alas ! ho alcpps !
KATH11YN HUSH.
COSXVlllAr.1 TJKS.
Miss Helen Mlrlnlute of Pittsburg Is about
to change her name to Mrs. Wawrzynles
Pletrnszklewlez.
Mrs. Callska Maria Phelps ot Buffalo was
married to Dr. Ashton Buchanan Talbot of
Philadelphia last Monday. The bride Is 78
years old and the groom 33.
Mrs. Uucll , the Michigan .woman who mar
ried a man In order to reform him and then
acknowledged her mistake In an address
made at his funeral , learned her lesson by
H3vere experience.
The matrimonial Inclinations of St. Paul
widows have received a rude shock at the
hands of Judge Wlllrlch , who declares that a
widow who remarries loses her allowance
from the date of her wedding.
Seven cases are recorded In England dur
ing the present century where the bride has
ben married to the beat man by mistake.
The paper giving the Information does not
state how matters were remedied.
Dr. Leroy 11. Smith , n professor In the
Louisville Medical college , and Mls Elizabeth
Smedley of Salt Lake , Utah , were married In
Cincinnati last week. The young couple had
known each other less than a week ,
Some of the eastern papers are joking
Chauncey Depew over the announcement that
he Is in love with a beautiful woman with
$8,000,000. He replies that thu story is made
out of the whole cloth and that he knows no
such woman. He Is nut the kind of man
hunting a fortune In that way. There are
thousands of women worth much more than
that who have not a dollar In bank.
At the Episcopal Dloceran council held In
Milwaukee last week Bishop Nicholson said :
"It Is so now in Wisconsin that runaway
couples can got married here on almost a
moment's notice without any question as
to whether the marriage which li to be con
tracted Is a proper one ; Clergymen , too , I
am sorry to say , abet these runaway cpuples
by marrying them for1 the solo purpose of
obtaining the fee , without regard to the
Injury which they ore thereby bringing upon
the community and the misery which they
are sometimes entailing on the very lives
of the contracting parties themselves. "
The marriage ot Miss Bertha Constance
Perry to Pierre Ixirlllartl Ronalds , Jr. , took
place last week at "Illdgelawn , " Ray Ridge ,
the home of Mr. and Mre. William A ,
Perry , the bride's parents. The ceremony
took place beneath Jlhelma'ple trees on the
lawn. The enclosure 'Vas railed oft with
garlands of laurel leaves. A piece of rare
seventeenth century tapestry , representing a
Chinese wedding , was suspended from the
big trees to form n background. Rugs were
placed upon the grass , and thn bride and
groo'm kneeled upon a pink satin cushion.
A remarkable story Is connected with the
marriage last week In Atlanta of Mlea Fanny
Rosa Atkinson to Stamnore H. Townes. Both
are prominent In the southern city. Miss
Atklnson. 'l ' ls declired , was deeded to Mr ,
Townes when she way 1 year old and he . ' ' .
Their parents were close friends , and the
mother of the llttie girl so loved the little
FOR. A
Weak Constitution
Black Tonic
It Is not only ft MEDKC1NU It is
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) o ( .
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. . . . . . . ) o (
Every dose , measured by results , li
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Ask . .yourtlruvgist tor it ,
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BLACK TONIC MED. CO. ,
ST , LOUIS , MO.
iioy that she made a formal gift in writing
ot her child to him. The families separated
shortly after this. It was not until Townts
was 20 , says1 nn Atlanta dispatch , that he saw
the charming Miss Atkinson , Knowing noth
ing of the peculiar gift of eighteen years
liefore , he fell in love with the young woman.
He was then a student In Columbia college.
After graduation he came to Atlanta. She In
the meantime had come hero to teach ichool.
When he lipa.nl of the deed of gift ho ! -
clared that ho was going to hold her to It ,
and the mother who had written it was
present nt the wedding that followed.
THE DOCTOR'S COLUMN.
VenUVMM'lcl. riilln.-l Imvo minVrol for urns
> PIU with heart trtililo , nKRiuvntnt by the in *
> f inliiiioit ninl llquum ; my memory niul vision
HilinpilMHl , Can y. . u Mate ix tnm Jy ?
Take Ccrcbrlno , extract of the brain , In
five drop doses on the tongtio three times
lally for. two weeks ; then take Testlne , In' '
same dose two weeks , and so on , alternating.
Knnnln 11. . Knnnim t'lty.-t BUI vry utout nnl
trmiljlrdHli Kliurltu-n of blrnlli. I'lrnso miKn < iH
Home Itenliiirnl ,
Tnko Thyroldlne , extract of the thyroltl
? Iaml , In three drop doses on the. tongue ,
three times dally. Twlco n week take a
spoonful of Natrollthlc Salt , .In half a turn-
bier of water , one-halt hour1 before break
fast. " '
E. E. , St. Ixjuls. For tne trouble of the
young lutly of nineteen , use cold 8) ) > oiigo
lathing nnd rough to\\et at night. Take
Mcdultlnc , extract of the spinal cord. In three
Irop doses , three times dally on the tongue ,
tleport In two weeks. Use Nntrolltlilc Salt
n a half tumbler full of water , a half hour
joforo brcaktast , twice or oftcner In the
week.
\V. K. . Vanmlc. N .1 I Imve sufTercil aim *
time with linnix lii-fiittlng out on my neck. Will
> ou loll mo wlmt will lie KooJ for me ?
Use Thyrodlno , extract of the thyroid
gland. In three drop doses , thrca times dally
in the tongue. Twlco a week , a half hour
icfore breakfast , take Natrollthlc Salt , ono-
Iialf teaspoonful In a tumbler of water.
Fred II. , Chicago. Use Testlno In three
drop doses , three times dally for a month ;
then use Corebrine , extract of the brain , In
same dose. Sponge bath every morning ,
rough towel. Sleep In well ventilated room
on hard inatttess , light bed clothing. Avoid
spicy food , coffee , tea and tobacco.
W. T. PARKER. M. D.
P. S. All lettcrH of Inquiry on medical
subjects directed to the Columbia Chemical
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TUSTINK , For premature decay.
OVAUINE , For diseases of Women.
THYROiniNH , for Kevoma and Impurities of
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Dose , 5 Drops. Price.Two Drachms , $1.00 ,
ALL DRUGGISTS. Send for Book.
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For Malarial Affections and nil Inflamma
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Price , per box of 20 jfllls , COc ; 100 pills , 13.
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For habitual constipation , torpor ot th
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Price , We per bottle.
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'
Yale's
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Ladles and Guntlomi-n : II ntTonlxmo
great pleasure to call tlio attention of
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my solemn Kmirantei > that It IIMH been
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Spt-clllc. It STOPS IIA1K KAI.MNU
Immediately and crcatcH a luxurious
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All ilnisRlHU U'rlpi51 ; nlxo Yal 'H HUin
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