THE OMAIIA DAILY til&E : SUNDAY , JUNE 1C , 1805.
Q WOMAN'S UQMJLIN. ft
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Comfortable Unilorcnriiirnt * for tlio Snm-
mar Sfinon.
NEW VOniC , Juno 15. Curious and manl *
told are the expressions of the Trilby craze.
Tint It was a baker who caught the fever
and Btamped his pics with pictures of the
fair moJel , In the soldier coat and loose
slippers , made famous ; then Trilby cigarettes
sprang up , and there were Trilby corsets ,
Trilby shoes and Trilby ways of arranging
your back hair.
And now the very latest thing In Trllbylsm
Is a night dress In pale ecrue batiste ,
trimmed with yellow valenclennos , that bears
the name of the wonderful singer of 13en
Holt.
Holt.Whether
Whether or not Trilby was given to such
elegant robes do null Is something Mr. Du
Miurler docs not record , but the new night
Kiwn dedicated to her memory comes straight
front Trilby's Paris.
The batiste Is as pallid as cheese cloth
and of a vell-llko fineness , and In shape the
gown borders somewhat on a painter's blouse
nnd that of the French Pierrot. All the full
ness hangs from the shoulder seams , nnd
the bottom , which Is short enough to escape
the floor all round , Is turned In a simple
hrm , The sleeves arc bishop shape , held
short at the Insld : seam with n narrow In
sertion of the yellow lace , running length-
wile ; they fall In a loose puff to the elbow ,
where they are finished with a batiste flounce
v , 1th edging of the lice and Insertion let In.
About the neck and shoulders the Trilby
night dress Is adorable.
First , there Is a vast sailor collar of the
batiste , niado vaster with rows of Insertion
nnd lace until II falls low on the arms like
a cape , nnd Inside this again there Is a full
ruche of the vide lace that hugs the throat
with true clown effect.
\Va < ih ribbons In palo ecru fasten the ruche
nt the chin , and the collar Is made to hang
In heavy pointi at the sides , by being cut
extra wide , and the fullness plaited Into the
neck band , back and front.
Altogether this dainty specimen of lingerie
calls to mind anything but the strapping
young woman after whom It Is christened.
Uut It may have bcn suggested by the
clalr de lune song Trilby sings , which Is all
ubout somebody who has urgent need of a
pjn , and of a hard hearted Pierrot who won't
open his door. At any rate It Is cnchantlngly
lovely and like most lovely night gowns ,
Impracticable to a decree.
EASY AND BEAUTIFUL.
As to other new underwear , It Is plain to
\ > e seen that fashion has hail reform In her
mind. Never were women's nether garments
more comforablc , or more agreeable to the
eye than now.
The best things are alt hand made and
fashioned of the most fragile quantities ,
French batiste and dimity , which are so de
lightful for summer wear , being favorite ma
terials.
Others are white nainsooks , or nainsook
delicately patterned Iti tinted stripes or fig
ures , China linen or Persian lawn , which
has the glint and caressing feel of sllkallnc ,
and which , In the shape of tricky flounces
H much used for trimming under pjttlcoats
of colored cambric or lawn.
Sometimes foolish , flxey night dresses In
dotted muslin , that may be white or tinted ,
will be scan. Ulbboni or lace trim these
to elaborateness , and as serious contract to
the silly things , there are plainly made
tklrts , chemises and drawers In ecrue pongee
that are offered for traveling purposes and
other busy wear.
Now York shopping and wheelwomcn are
taking up these pongee underthlngs , which
lira said to have all the cool virtues of
thinner ones , besides everlasting qualities.
The faint yellow of the pongee Is not ob
jectionable , though.It cannot be denied that
w&lfe nether garments , and cotton nt that
tire- , better table. Other sill : underclothes
with' the exception of the colored petticoats
and rlbbod unjlerVcste that have somehow
grown indispensable are consrlc-ious Ly th Ir
"
COSTLY NEEDLEWORK.
Flno stltchery nurks the lingerie of the
elegant woman. Ordinary people buy suit
of whlto American lawn daintily trlmmii
with Valenciennes that seem nice onoug
for anybody , but the feminine elegante decks
her fair body with fragile , soft llnlHhed cot
tons , loaded with needlework , and is con
scious of her superiority
The most pleasing things create an Im
pression of surpassing simplicity. Besides
the stltchery , which Is In the form of her
ring bone , feather stitch and tucks of mlro-
Bcoplo slenderness , there Is usually only an
additional edging of narrow valenclonnes.
A chemise of fine whit nainsook , with
these decorations , Is cut slip shape , with
a turnover baby bib In two points , made
entirely of the needlework and edged with
the laco. There are no sleeves , the armholes -
holes being simply outlined with the lace ,
the bottom Is made wide enough to take tha
place of an under petticoat , and In length It
comes to the ankles , where It Is plainly
hemmed. This la the favorlto and most use
ful model for chemises.
There are chemises , and nightgowns as
wpll that liavo bottoms frilled and tucked
llko skirts , but by fastidious persons the
hemmed edge la considered better form.
Other chemises bavo puffed fronts , In a
more delicate texture than the garment that
above and below the bust are drawn Into
the figure by baby ribbons' run through lace
beading.
One adornblo little model that formed part
of a suit of three articles had a front In two
oblong embroidered pieces that took tha
curve of the bust and tied low at thq center
with daisy ribbons.
This cliemlso and the nightdress and
drawers that went nlth It were of the new
figured nainsook mentioned , whlto , delicately
patterned with cool , dim blue.
AN APPUOVED PATTERN.
The drawers were the short , wide shape
that ha\o long been popular , the bottoms
being finished In deep points made of the
A BATISTE QOWN.
handworked nainsook between rows of valtn-
clonnos Insertion ; they were edged with a
frill of wide Valenciennes that ga\o them a
fall flouncing look.
Another dainty and becoming drawers
modal has bottoms that come up to a polnl
abore the knee , when they are finished with
full rosettes of the so-called "wash" ribbon.
This ribbon , which has a smooth glace flntih ,
it seen on nil Imported underwear , and Is
warranted to stmJ water llko the proverbial
rag Ai bows , rosettes and ties It decorates
everything , and when clipped through Ham
burg beading In closely worked squares it
makes Itself an effective and easily accom
plished trimming.
Lftjxn skirt * that have > deep flounce thai
U made full by the upper pcrtion being laid
In tuckt are sometimes headed In this way.
A new English embroidery of laivn , very
j1 'i ' 11 'i ' i' ' 1 | | > 'i ' ( ' 1 | | > 1 | | L-
ipen , and In some- cases with a tinted edge ,
s much seen on nainsook garments that are
ntended for common uie ,
Lace Is also In favor , nnd especially for
dressy petticoats. The skirts are gored , but
are made to look full with overlapping
lounces , the lace edging thorn , and being let
n by hand between strips of the material.
Lawn In various degrees of fineness seems
to be the favorite petticoat stuff , and the
most effective laces remarked were cither
Husslan or a new and curious ono called
"llcrro. "
A LOVELY LACE.
A familiar design In a French lace Is very
lovely ; and If It has not already been dis
covered , look for a cr , amy net , throjgh wh'ch
is run a thick whlto band looped llko a
walteait ribbon In garlands , nnd tied at the
points In love knots.
It Is most charming. Just the thing , too ,
for dressing sacqucs , and all the dainty
garments In colored batiste and dimity that ,
made up , .some women arc buying for night
dresses and seine for wrappers.
Corset covers arc KOCH , but little bought.
Modish women hnvo discovered that the
thin , clip chemises , worn over the corset , are
more comfortable and effective than the old-
fashloncd light corset bodies ; though loose ,
they are too flno to nlTcct the fit of the out
side garment. A woven silk undcrvest Is
worn next the body.
As to corsets , a certain little combination
corset and body In the market Is worthy of
consideration. The body Itself Is In light
cotton drill , with a back In two
pieces and a single front dart ; n
pun * of mull covers the bust , and ,
narrowing to an Inch width , extends over the
shoulders nil around. Scams are lapped ,
neatly stitched nnd whaleboned , and the neck
puff Is held In place by narrow ribbon slipped
through the Inevitable bending. Tiny puffed
sleeves nro arranged In the same way.
1'or slight figures this seemed nn admirable
cornet compromise , for , of course , the woman
Is rare who wishes to discard this much
abt'scd article cntlicly. NINA FITCH.
coNuuiJi'j or \ < MIIV. :
A I'cnmrlcitblu Intcrtmtlniml Convention In
rmlnii In l.rtiilnn.
The Joint biennial congiess of the World's
Women's Christian Temperance union and
the British Woman's Temperance association
was opened last Friday In London. There
have been previous conventions of both
bodies , but never before was there ono so
large , so composite and so representative.
Every civilized country li represented and
the proceedings are conducted In thirty
languages.
The story of Its birth Is related by the
LJ 'LJ' ' ' LJI--lLJt 'LJ '
two short years ago poor King Lobengula
reigned over his savage subjects. There
are unions In Asia , In Mnlays'a. In Mon
golian domains ; In India , In China , and In
Japan , Mra. Leavltt In prosecuting her
wrrk employed no fewer than tv/o hundred
and twenty odd Interpreters and translators.
In this way both the Idea and the organl/a-
tlon have been carried Into nearly all the
places of the earth.
The very flrst suggestion that the Woman's
ChrlstIan.Tcinperance union , then a very
small and unlnflucntlal body , might over be
come an International or a world's confedera
tion , was made by Miss Frances E. Wlllard
In 1870. To most of her hearers It seemed
a beautiful ivoetlc fancy , but not a possibility
In any way. Seven years later the growth
of the order had been so great that when
Miss Wlllard suggested drawing up plans for
a world's organization her proposal was ac
cepted as n matter of course. The plans
were accordingly prepared , and In 18SG a tem
porary organization was effected by the elec
tion of Mrs. Margaret Bright Lucas as the
flrst world's president. The choice was a
very wlsi > ono , for Mrs. Lucas was the sister
of John Bright , the great commoner , and enJoyed -
Joyed popularity and social prestige almost
as great ns her brother. She was on friendly
terms with all the leaders of British politics ,
and possessed to a rare degree the tact and
discretion Imperatively required for the ofllco
to which she was elected. The next presi
dent was Miss Frances E. Wlllard , who was
elected In 1887 , and has held office ever since.
She Is to preside over the convention In Lon
don , and thus far seems to bs the unanimous
cholco of the delegates from every part of
the world for president for the coming term.
The other members of the board of officers
are Mrs. Leavltt. who Is honorary president ;
Isabel ( Lady H. ) Somerset , vice president at
large ; Mrs. Mary A. Woodbrldge of Chicago ,
secretary ; Miss Anna A. Gordon of Evanston ,
111. , a religious hymn writer and composer of
church music , Is assistant secretary. The
office of treasurer was filled by Mrs. Ella F.
M. Williams of Montreal , Canada , ona of the
great orators and executive officers of the
Dominion Woman's Christian Temperance
union. She signed the call for the present
congress only a few weeks ago , and Immedi
ately threafter was attacked with pneumonia ,
which terminated her career.
At the head of the Brltlah organization Is
Lady Henry Somerset , who has been Its presi
dent slnca 1890. She has gathered around
her a circle of women who wield a very wide
Influence In Great Britain. Some have been
selected on account of their literary ability ,
others , like Mrs. Ormlston Chant , for ad
ministrative capacity , and still others for
their high social position. Lady Henry Is a
born politician , an aristocrat by birth , educa
tion , wealth , and marriage , but a thorough
democrat In her speech , manners , habits and
TRILBY NIGHT HOBE.
New York Sun. There have been temperance
societies In England and America as far
back as the memory of the oldest Inhabitant
goes and as much further as he claims to
have heard about , but It was not until 1S74
that Miss Frances E. Wlllard , Mrs. Louise
3. Hounds , Mrs. Mary Clement Leavltt and a
score of other women conceived the notion of
starting a temperance Boclcty upon a broad ,
non-sectaTian Christian basis. The moment
they put their Idea Into practice It met with a
success that was almost magical. Local
union after local union was formed , until the
whole country wag dotted with societies llko
a country meadow with dandelions In the
early spring. In 1876 the American system
crossed the Canadian border Into the land of
our northern neighbors , and with ono spring
leaped the Atlantic Into
across Nowcastle-on-
Tyno. In Canada it preserved Its simple
name of Women's Christian Temperance
union. In England It took the title of the
British Women's Temperance association.
By 1SS2 ell three organizations had grown
so great as to bo recognize ! factors in re
ligious if not In daily life. There were
unions In every state and territory of the
United States and even In far-away Alaska ;
there were unions in every province of Can
ada , Including Manitoba. There were
branches of the British Woman's Temperance
association In every county In England , Scot
land , and Wales , and not a few in the Emer
ald Isle. Not alone were the branches cf the
three societies numerous and well organized ,
but they were aUo prosperous and well olll-
ccred. Each had money In Its treasury , enJoyed -
Joyed an income from Its membership , anJ ,
In general , was led by women of more than
ordinary ability. The system pursued by
the women was and Is one which tends to
make the members of a club good speakers
and debaters. Beyond this the practice of
having a literary bureau and of publishing
largo quantities of much better reading mat
ter than the old school temperance societies
were wont to supply , made the more active
members extremely well Informed and pre
pared to address miscellaneous audiences.
These were probably the chief causes of suc-
cws , but , whether they were or not , one
thing is certain , the Woman's Christian Tem
perance union turned out some capital speak
ers and executive officers. Any one who has
studied their work and attended their larger
meetings has had occasion to recognize the
tact and diplomacy of the leaders and the
forensic ability of their regular speakers.
Among the foremost women are Miss trances
E. Wlllard , Miss Elizabeth U. Yates of
Maine , Mrs. J. Ellen Foster , Rev. Anna How
ard Shaw , Kate Lente Stevenson , Mrs. Clara
Hoffman. Mrs. Anna L. Dlggs , Miss Edyth
Archibald and Miss Jessie Ackerman. Their
admirers have even gone so far as to declare
that the nine best orators In either the senate
or the last housa of representatives would
not average so high as the women named.
In 18S3 the leaders determined upon doing
rofiulan missionary work , and began by
sending organizers out Into other lands , by
opening correspondence with friends and be-
llevera in the common cause , and by dis
tributing campaign literature. This work
succeeded from tha nrit , and has gone on
ever since. The two greatest missionaries
are Mrs. Mary Clement Leavltt , who Is now
the honorary president of the World's Wo
man's Christian Temperance union , and Miss
Jessie Ackerman. a Boston girl , who U now
the president of tha Australian Woman's
ChrUtlau Temperance union. Whllo the
major part of the missionary effort has pro
ceeded from the United States , neither Can
ada nor Great Britain baa been far behind.
The result of all this tireless endeavor Is
something amazing. Ther * ara unions In the
West Indies , Mexico , Central America , and
South America. There ara unions In every
country In Europe except Portugal and Tur
key ; ther * art ) unions In Africa , and one has
even been started tar up la MaUbele , where
associations. She owns a fine estate anc
uses It as headquarters for the great army ol
her followers. These are of little Importance
to an American , but In Great Britain they
have a world of meaning and a power for
untold good. Although the masses are op
posed to the temperance idea , and favor the
gteat brewing Interests , yet they have so pro
found an admiration for Lady Henry that If a
vote were taken tomorrow In those counties
of the south of England where her estates lie
and whera she Is well known , It would prob
ably be In favor of her cause and against the
thirsty desires of the voters. Another
bright particular star In the British firma
ment U Miss Hallle Q. Brown , a graduate of
Wilberforco university. She Is a young
woman , a fine speaker and writer , and h
'more ' than enthusiastic In her advocacy of
the principles of the British association
Other leaders are Mrs. Trice-Hughes , Mrs
Wynford Philllpps , Mrs. Agnes Slack anc
Miss Goham.
The leader of the Australian order Is Miss
Jessie Ackerman , formerly of Boston , who
succeeded so well In her missionary efforts Ir
Australia and New Zealand and took so great
a liking to the people that she has become an
Australian. Thus far the leaders of the
various European countries have not been an
nounced. There are laige societies In r ; any
districts of Europe , more especially In the
four Scandinavian countries. In Finland anc
north Germany. There , Is a society In Mu
nlch , the famous center of the lager beer
Industry. The delegations from these socle
ties will make an Interesting element In the
convention. Many of them speak English
Imperfectly or else not at all , and will re
quire the services of an Interpreter. There
will bo no trouble In this respect as nearly al
the American and British leaders are lin
guists and have frequently translated the
speeches of their less gifted continental sis
tcrs.
HUH INVKNTIVK UhNiUS.
How Lovely Woman Is oil Krcord In the
I'ntont Ollloo.
Nearly a century ago the first patent ever
granted to a woman was Issued from the
United States Patent office , at Washington
D. C. The event , now an cvery-day occur
rence , was then unprecedented , and attractet
widespread attention , says the New Yorl
Times. The Intrepid little Woman who hat
the courage to so protect the result of much
thought and experiment was looked upon by
the virtuous but somewhat narrow-mlndei
women of her day , whoso horizons were
bounded by the four walls of home , as one
who had wandered far from the fold.
Undaunted and unheeding , however , Mrs
Mary Klcs workoJ unceasingly to perfect be
Invention , filed an application for a patent
obtained It , and after several years of dls
couragcment from manufacturers and others
reaped the benefit to the extent of some $10 ,
000. That was ID the year 1S09 , and th
patent was for a certain method of straw
weaving , with silk or thread.
Six year * later a ripple of excitement again
Qutterel through the patent office when Mis
Mary Brush filed an application for a paten
on a corset. After due deliberation the de
Ired protection waj given on July 21 , 1815.
From 1800 to 1829 eleven patents were ls
sued to women , and during the twenty year
succeeding just twice the number. It U In
terestlng to note that even those early pat
nts wore not confined solely to Improve
ments In articles especially adapted for tb
n > a and adornment ot the fair sex , the 1U
Including mien articles as foot stoves , device
for sawing wheel fellies , cook stove bellows
machlna tor cutting straw and toddtr. procei
ot extracting fur from skins and minufactur
ng It Into yarn. , i. fireplace , Improvement In
lie mode ot applying distemper colon having
Ibumcn or gelaine ( f ° r lliclr vehicle so as tu
ender them ( morn durable , and preserving
hem when no wanted for Immediate use ; a
ubmarlno telqscopj and lamp , and a proceM
or making saiurons.
From 1849 to JSlsa 300 patents were Issued
fty-slx during jbo.lnttcr year snd the mo'el
oem of < ho latent office bears silent testi
mony to the fact ( hyit since then the Inventive
genius ot wonvMithas not lain dormant.
Ono of the moatIngenious , jnodels on oxhlbl-
Ion lo a comwnailon washing machine and
ce-savv , concetlvnl ud patented by an Ohio
natron. It consists of n hollow receiver ,
ontalnlng a rotary clothes holder , the motlvu
power for which Is furnished by means of a
loverly contrlvedi connection with a see-saw.
The peculiar merit of this Invention as sot
orth In the application papers Is that the
clothes of the family and others , should the
orlunato possessor of such a machine chance
o bo a washerwoman by profession bo
ilaced Inside , with the necessary quantity of
oap nnd water , the children of the nelglibar-
jood graciously invited In to "teeter , " thereby
affording thorn pleasure and recreation anJ
at the same tlmo utilizing the energy ex-
ir-nded.
In nn adjoining care reposes an article that
hould achieve Instant popularity with those
contemplating trips by sea. The Inventor , a
air Philadelphia ! ! , being evlJcntly Impressed
vlth the unbecoinlngness of the ordinary llfo
preserver , designed a shapely life-preserving
cerset , nnd secured a patent on It. too. This
unique artlclo ot apparel is provided with
stays of cork , and Is Intended for constant
wear , while on the water , by men as well
as women. It Is said to bo "flexible , yield-
ng to the motions of the body , not liable to
ireak through or rust , and may be made thin
and light. "
Besides hundreds of articles connected with
icr surroundings , such ns cooking utensils ,
picture frames. Improvements In articles of
dress , and things useful and ornamental for
: he house , women have won weallh and repu
tation by the Invention of numerous articles ,
Implements , and attachments with which men
only , as a rule , ore supposed to deal.
In 18G1 a Philadelphia woman , after watchIng -
Ing n husband and two sons depart for the
war , employed her leisure moments In study
ing up a way to Improve war vessels. She
lilt upon a valuable chance for Increasing
their power of resistance , and prsonally ap
plied for a patent , which was granted In due
course.
Other Important Inventions noted all of
which have proved profitable were a plow ,
a dumping wagon , an Improvement in desul
phurizing ores , a moda of preventing the
heating of axles on cars , a car hsater , car
coupler , stem-winding watch , screw propeller ,
a process of concentrating ores , an ozone ma
chine , a pyrotechnic night slRiial , street-car
awning , dice box , and so on Indefinitely.
Imitating the example of her fairer sisters
the negro woman Is also coming to the front
as an Inventor. A recent patent Issued to a
dusky daughter/ the south for a self-wait
ing table shows great Ingenuity of construc-
A movable circular portion of the tablo.
supported on rollers , Is mounted on a central
pivot , so as to admit of Us being turned.
Articles of food are placed upon this rotary
section , so that a person wanting anything
from the opposite side of the table has only
to turn the central section to bring it within
easy reach. . , „
A New Yorkji woman has patented a one-
wheeled vehlclp , Iniwhich the equilibrium Is
sustained by tha-equal disposition of the load
upon either sde ! , ofthe center , as on a bicy
cle. It has , doqblo seat , supported by a
lateral frame , ipo arranged as to bring It
"both fore and * ftat the axle , and so aasUt
In balancing tlip vehicle and In removing the
dead weight partly of wholly from the harness
saddle. " ) > i
An Interesting model evolved from the
brain of an enterprising music teacher Is an
adjustable dotlce. representing > i musical
staff , leger lines , vbars , etc. , and movable
characters to represent clefs , notes and rests.
This young woman .found difficulty In making
clear to beglnners-ttho fact that certain slcns
or characters placed upon a particular de
gree ot the staff -represented a different tone
trom that whlWT the same sign represented
If placed upon' ' alibther degree ot the staff ,
by means of ( fhart having the notes perma
nently placed , % ria so she designed an adjust
able staff , by means of which a sign note
may be placed upon a certain degree , and ,
after the musical tone has baen assigned It
by tha piano or voice , the same sign may be
placed on another degree of the staff and a
correct tone given , thereby combining the evi
dence of the eye and ear to Impress upon the
mind of the pupil the Importance and utility
of the staff as an Indicator of pitch.
A novelty In skipping ropes comes all the
way from England. By a clever contrivance
the rope Is connected with a music box In
one of the handles. As the rope revolves
about the child , while in the act of jumping ,
machinery Is set In motion and a pretty
musical accompaniment delights her car.
A lover of animals contributes to the model
department a sunshade- for horses and other
anlmaU In harness. The object Is to protect
them from the vertical and oblique rays of
the sun In hot weather without preventing
free circulation of air between sunshade and
animal. This well-intentioned but clumsy
article consists of a canopy and on articulated
adjustable supporting frame. Coarse bleached
muslin or any strong cotton fabric Is used
for the top , of sufficient length and breadth
to shade the entire animal. Two long cells
of wire connect the top of the shade with the
harness In such a manner as to afford easy
contraction and expansion of the canopy aa
.the movement of the animal's head , up and
down , requires.
One intrepid daughter of Pennsylvania has
recently been granted a patent for an im
provement In corpse coolers.
The artlclo upon which more patents have
been granted for various Improvements than
any other Is the corset. The evolution of
that garment , as demonstrated In the history
of patents , forms by Itself on Interesting
study. During the reign of hoops hundreds
of applications were examined and patents
Issued for trifling modifications of accessories
to the wire cages , while an almost equal
number was refused. Mrs. Lavlnla H. Fey
of Worcester , Mass. , sets forth her claim as
follows : "Much annoyance and difficulty are
now experienced by wearers of hoopsklrts aa
they are now constructed , In consequence of
the frequent turning over of the bottom
hoops. I remedy this objection by placing a
piece or strip of glazed cloth on each side
of the hoops , and place between pieces of
glazed cloth pieces of stiff paper or other
substance to stiffen and prevent the bottom
hoops from turning over , without destroying
proper elasticity. Also , as the bottoms of
the hoops and the supports are apt to soil ,
and much time and money have to be spent
to remedy this difficulty , I accomplish that
object by the use of glazed cloth In combina
tion with the use of hoops covered with
fibrous material and then painted or covered
with some material not soluble In water , so
that It can be wasHed. "
During 1892 rppro applications were filed
by women for patents protecting new conceits
In souvenir spoons.tlmn | for any other one
thing , 1 i
Tha examiners of the patent office have
frequent laughs over the many curious man
uscripts that pass through the office , as
many of the applications for patents are ir
resistibly funny.i Ar request for a patent on
"artificial dlmittesV-ils perhaps'the gem ol
the collection. ' 'Tha claims of the fair one
were as follows ! ! ' B
What I deslrt to secure by letter patent Is
my original method of .making artificial
dimples , as follow * :
First Smear fer > small spot on the cheek
or chin with colorless shellac varnish , mixed
with glue. an. <
Second WltU'a pencil or penholder press
the flesh * with the point , holding It there
until the eubstance on the face becomes dry
and hard.
Third The stiffened Indentation thus re
tains tha exact uliano of a dimple , and a little
face powder , dusted carefully over the "arti
ficial dimple" will completely conceal tba
varnish glue compound.
Fourth Some care must be observed In
smiling too suddenly or the dimple rosy be
broken.
Fifth With ordinary gentle usage U wll
retain Us shape a whole evening , if nol
longer.
Whllf the dimple process U applicable to
thoie whose faces comprise a soft , velvety , or
pulp surface , as then a very deceptive dimple
can be produced , it Is not so available for
thin or bony faces , nor where the skin i *
very thick and unyielding.
Another woman wanted a patent on
crimping , pin , uhlclt could be used also at
a paper uuiur , eklrt supporter , letter file ,
child's pin , bouquet holder , shawl fastener
and book mark.
One of the most novel patents ever Issued
was secured by a Boston woman on a device
or restoring facial symmetry. It consisted
of a spring plate , with two prongs or forks.
The plate was to bo attached to the teeth ,
ind the prongs placed Inside the mouth , so
hat they would press outward against each
cheek and tause them In time to look plump
and full.
A recent application for a 11030 Improver
was refused. The models consisted of metal
nolds ot every shape of nose Imaginable. In
all sizes. Accompanying directions required
; hat the nose bo well bathed before re-
: lrlng , and rubbed with olive oil or glycer-
tie until perfectly soft. The "Improver"
was then to bo attached and allowed to re-
nnln undisturbed until morning , when It was
: o be removed and the nose bathed In wnrm
water. The piper also stated that some
soreness would probably result , but that a
few applications would relieve all unpleasant
ness. U was claimed by the Inventor that ,
as the nose was only a piece ot cartilage , It
was easy to shape , nnd could be changed to
suit the most fastidious taste.
Up to the present date 0,200 patents have
been secured by American women.
T 111 : MAI.AU now u
J'rrsh Iliiconkpil Vrgolnblcs Arc Absolute
Nrrrssltlp * In Mimnirr Tlnto.
Whllo primitive man subsisted on the
products of the fields- , forest and stream
ivlthout the aid of cooks , It should bo our
aim to live near that condition by taking
inorc and more of those foods which demand
the least use of heat or cooking In their
preparation.
In selecting uncooked food we must always
bo vigilant to use that which Is perfectly
sound and In good condition , neither unrlpo
nor overripe. With tomatoes , lettuce , ro-
malne , cucumber , crew and the numerous
other plants of the kitchen garden wo can
make combinations for a summer meal which
almost excludes cereals for main substance.
Beef tongue with lettuce and beet , or flsh
and cucumber ; chicken or game with cress
or romalne , and tomatoes with just enough
well baked bread to help out a meal , offers
a repast attractive , satisfying and nutritious
to the majority of feeders.
Contrary to general notions the use of fat
In the form of saladi oils should be encour
aged In summer. Let It bo remembered
that the more oil wo take the less bread wo
need. Ono ounce ot oil will do as much
duty as food as two and a half ounces of
bread , and Is much easier digested.
The quantity of oil we can consume is very
small , and once the appetite is acquired di
gestion will bo greatly Improved. Salad
might certainly be used tvvlco a day.
There is another aspect to this feature of
food of great value. Observation will teach
the inquirer that the thirsty souls who can
never get enough water to drink of any kind
ore these who consume most starchy sub
stances , as , for Instances , boiled potatoes ,
bread having very little browned crust and
pies. Cheap potatoes and abundant flour
are not always unmixed blebslngs. With
these thcro Is needed a high degree of ex
perience and skill from the cook to prepare
such articles In a way least Injurious to the
stomach and Intestines.
In summer digestion needs to be vigorous ,
and to Injure this end wo ought to avoid as
much as wo can the use of foods which di
gest In the intestines , to which class breaJ
and potatoes belong.
Salads are at all tlmas valuable as coolIng -
Ing , refreshing food , and are besides excel
lent food for promoting sleep.
The salad dressing does not often require
the cook stove to prepare It , since oil , vine
gar , cream and eggs may bo used. The
taste and sentiment of every Individual may
1 3 consulted by varying the form of service
to any conceivable extent.
The number of salad articles prepared fro > n
cooked garden stuff are as varied and en'lclng
as the most dcllcato appetite could desire.
From the health standpoint It would be dlfll-
cult : to choose a more delicious plant than
the tomato , either raw or cooked. The ex
tent to which this beautiful fruit-vegetable is
used and its yearly Increasing u cs attest Its
value as a oopular favorite. The enormous
quantities used for the manufacture of
cateup. canning and for soup give promise
of a etlll larger consumption during the win
ter seasons.For rheumatic and kindred
evils the mild acids of the tomato ara ex
tremely useful as a solvent of decided power.
I'UBllloll XlltCH.
Some of the new crepons show changeable
effects.
Novel French crepcd silks are printed In
cTalne devices.
Fancy dress buttons match Dresden designs
In silk and satin ribbons.
Many of the new silk waists have entire
fronts of gulpuro or point de. Gene lace.
Undressed kid gloves ot pale cameo pink
are worn with evening toilets of cream or
pale rose color.
Box pleated waists of light colored liberty
satin are fashionably worn with full gored
skirts of white serge or crepon.
In the matter of shoes the ridiculously
high French heel and the two-Inch vamp
are as obsolete aa a one-button glove.
Sleeves of transparent material are lined
with thinnest tarletan to keep them in place ,
and caught up with ribbon rosettes with
pretty effect.
Lace on the stylish shoulder capes by
means of stiff linings Is made to stand out
after the manner ot quills upon an offended
porcupine.
White duck suits are to continue In vogue ,
but not the cheap , domestic duck. Tha ma
terial that comes over the sea will have the
preference.
Garden hats for the coming summer are
bolter named than ever , since on top and
sides la a horticultural display marvelous to
look upon.
Homan lamps , which the Chicago woman
took for a sauce bowl , are creeping Into Uie
"house beautiful , " albeit a source ot annoy
ance to the hired girl.
Lace , silk , muslin and crepon berthas ,
which were worn In the days colonial , will
bo "all the go" this season. They have the
"soft , soothing" effect.
Neapolitan straw Is the material of which
some ot the most beautiful ot the newly Im
ported bonnets are made. And It Is declared
they cannot bo imitated.
Pure undyed silk with a weave resembling
canvas and raUiier coarse in texture is called
Arabian silk. It Is used for tailor suits for
morning and travelling wear.
Imitation Ivy vines for the exterior of the
modern old homestead can be had at so much
per yard. To these who do not know the
real it is a good imitation.
Dressy sleeves for afternoon as well as
evening wear are made quite short , reachIng -
Ing only to the elbow. From thence falls a
very deep frill of lace , covering the arm
to the wrist. ,
Dimities , organdies , lawns , and light silks
are more tempting just now than any sort of
cloth , and lovely gowns of these delicate fab
rics are made In most Instances without lin
ings , and worn over silk petticoats.
Costumes of pure white , from tlio plain
crepon or silk parasol to the tip of the shoes ,
will be ono of the prevailing fashions In sum
mer dress , and they will Do worn morning ,
noon and night , In all the varying graces of
elegance.
Golden russet shades are in high favor once
again In addition to tan , fawn , and beige
tints. These dyes appear among gowns ,
jackets , waists , capes , gloves and hosiery.
Shoes to match are worn , not only In the
country , but also In cities with morning cos-
tunics. With cycling and tennis suits they
are universally worn.
An afternoon dress ot cream glace foulard ,
dotted with black , has a strap of whlto satin
covered with jet at each elde and finished
with a band and large velvet bow at the foot.
The bodice Is of cherry red chiffon , with ac
cordion-pleated jabot of jetted lace at the
neck. The pointed rovers are open-work jet ,
which also bands the lower edge of Uie Im
mense puffed sleeves. '
Among the dainty things for summer are
very short silk capes with lace revcrs and
collarettes ; whlto silk parasols with Dresden
figures In chine effects and white handles ;
silk waists with wide velvet strapn down the
front , and from shoulder to belt , these
straps studded with jet or cut steel buttons ;
large Leghorn hats simply laden with white
or pink ostrich tips , plaited chiffon rotettea ,
full blown roses , and foliage sprays.
The nawest summer bonnets BO called
are new In tha tenea of freshness , but not as
marked novelties , and are made of crepe
llsse , chiffon , Parisian patterned nets or ex
quisitely wrought Indian tlesuw , with laces
to match. These French trlflas light as air
represent foreign "drees" tyl i , the delicate
straws , aatln braids , and bonnets made ot
rushes being relegated to a secondary placa
In f iilonablo gowning.
In f shlonablo summer tints , all the golden
auados In lawn and brown , aad many la
green and yellow , are certainly predominant.
In plnka therenrr > but a few shades , but
there are most lovely shades appearing In
diaphanous fabrics and In silks for evening
wear under chiffon or lace. Primrose , goldenrod -
enrod , and corn-yellow dyes are still much
used In eatln ns foundation slips under trans
parent textiles. There nro alto a few rnro
shades In mauve and violet to bo used In com
bination with cream-color , whlto and black
fabrics or laces. In gray ! are some ex-
qulslto shades In dove , and creamy pearl
and fawn In crepons.
iVmmnui h < iti ! .
Queen Victoria lias signed the bill making
full womin suffrage In South Australia an
accomplished fact.
The prlncoM of Wales has n tea service
of sixty pieces , nnd each piece Is decorated
with a photograph which eho took herself
In Scotland.
Jane Harding has made n hit in the revival
of Alexander Dunns' "La Princess da Bag-
dad. " She take * the part of Ltonettc , created
In 1SSI by Crolzotte.
Mrs. Francis Klock , of the Colorado legis
lature , tins Introduced a bill In the house pro
viding for nn Industrial school for girls and
appropriating $10,000 for Its establishment
and maintenance.
Mrs. Langtry has the finest licad of hair
of any lady on the stage. She once used n
dye , but it disgusted her , and she has never
slnco attempted to Improve on nature's hand
iwork In tltla direction
The oldest living subject of Queen Victoria
Is said to be Mrs. McLatighlln , of Llm.ivaddy ,
Ireland , the home of Thackeray's famous
"Peg. " She Is said to bo In lier lllth year
and In full possession of her faculties.
Miss Mary A. Proctor , daughter of the late
Prof , lllchard A. Proctor , is following
In the footsteps of her distinguished father by
popularizing science , and , though a young
woman , has already won n high reputation as
a writer and lecturer.
Mrs. John Jacob Astor is ono of the most
beautiful women In t'no world. She has every
thing marvelous color , a graceful figure , ro-
nncmcnt , youth nnd wealth. She belongs to
that rare typo who can wear anything , mod
ern or ancient. And she wears everything.
John Oliver Hobbs ( Miss Cralgle ) Is only 20
years of age. Her hooka have caused a great
hubbub among the critics on account of the
pessimistic vlows expressed In them , and the
note of precocious cynicism prevailing
throughout their length.
Sarah Bcrnhardt drew a large audience tea
a Paris civil court lately , where she was sued
for not paying a horsedealer's bill. She said
that she always destroyed receipts , but that
shn had paid this one , nnd , being asked If she
would swear to It , sald"Je le jure , " and won
her case.
Ilov. Phoebe Hannaford , a prominent mem
ber of Sorosls , has the honor of being
the flrst woman minister ordained In America.
At the tlmo of Dr. Hannaford's ordination
only three women besides herself In the world
lind received orders. She Is busily engaged In
preparing a book of her early experiences.
The most accomplished lady ot English
royal family Is Marie of Russia ( duchess of
Edinburgh ) , who Is a thorough linguist and
an admirable planlsto as well. Sne devotes
several hours n day to her music and do-
llRlita In finding any ono as fond of the piano
as herself , who will play duets with her.
Mrs. Sarah Stephen , nn aged widow of
Kingston , N. Y. , who has ckcd out a living
selling molasses candy to school children , has
fallen heir to a fortune of several millions
She Is 85 years of age , but that doesn't mat
ter , as she has plenty of poor relations In the
town to help her taKe CCM of the money ,
and to take care of It after she dies.
The queen of Madagascar always dresses In
European fashion. &lao wears a purple costume -
tumo with a train on great occasions and
sometltnej assumes n golden crown. She Is
very vain of htr personal beauty and has
three times refused to accept coins struck to
her order , because she did not consider her
likeness sufficiently handsome for circula
tion.
tion.Mrs.
Mrs. James G. Blalno has two homes , ono
In Washington , where so many sorrows
crowded thick upon her , and the beautiful
summer homo at Bar Harbor. Mrs. Blalne
Is a cold , reserved woman , who has never
been very popular socially. All her life and
soul seemed to bo centered In her distin
guished husband , and without him she seems
to bo lost , Indeed. She spends mtlch of her
tlmo in traveling , and the Washlntgon house
Is rarely opened.
At the annual meeting of the New Eng
land Woman's club , held the other day , the
president , Mrs. Julia Ward Howe , said In
her opening address : "It was once eccentric
to belong to this club. Now the eccentric
woman Is the ono that does not belong to any
club. " Mrs. Howe claims that the New
England Woman's club was the first "housed
club" in this country , and she adds : "Wo
clubblfted Massachusetts. It Is needless to say
that Mabsachusetts believes now , as she has
always done , that the wihole country revolves
around her.
Mrs. Amelia Barr , who Is probably the most
prolific woman writer of the flrst class In
America at present , lives for the greater part
of the year at her beautiful homo near Peeks-
kill. She has ono daughter at home , who re-
Hews her of all household cares and another
living In Boston , who is married to Kirk
Munroo , whom all small boys know and adore.
It Is rumored that Mrs. Barr la going to write
a novel about Cambridge. If she gives to It
the local color that la the charm of "The
Bow of Orange Illbbon" she will add another
gem to American literature.
Six years ago Mr * . Eva Austin Weed , of
Auburn , began practical work as a topograph
ical draftsman , or rather draftawoman , with
her father , who Is city engineer. She con
tinued her studies at the Syracuse university
In 1889 and 1890 and the following year worked
In the Cooper Union , New York. Wlhen the
examinations under the civil service rules for
tha position of assistant topographical
draftsman were held in the Polytechnic Insti
tute last February , of the 108 applicants 46
paiscd. Mra. Weed was the only woman.
She stood flrst with a'pcrcentago of 94.
A young woman of Washington county ,
Maryland , Nannie Itoblnson by name , is con
sidered ono of the most energetic farmers in
that section. Since the death of her fallier last
fall slio has been keeping up the farm as well
as a water-power sawmill. Miss Robinson has
but one assistant , her brother Charles , aged
1C. Four months were consumed In logging
last season and Miss Itoblnson cut down
trees herself. She put the logs In the mill
and personally superintended the sawing.
Her lumber Is In great demand among the
dealers of Hancock. Miss Itoblnson Is a
comely woman , a splendid horsewoman , well
educated and but 20.
Mme. Yale's
Hair Tonic
Ladles and Gentlemen : It affords me great
pleasure to call the attention ot the public
to my Yale's Hair Tonic , wlilch Is the flrst
and only remedy known to chemistry which
positively turns gray hair back to Its origi
nal color without dye. I personally endorse
Its action and give the public my solemn guar
antee that It bas been tested In every con
ceivable way , and has proved Itself to be the
ONLY Hair Specific. U STOPS IIAJU FALL-
INO immediately and creates a luxurious
growth. Contains no Injurious Ingredient.
It Is net atlcky or greasy ; on the- contrary ,
It makes the hatr-toft , youthful , fluffy , keeps
It In curl and removei dandruff. For gentle
men and ladles wltb hair a little gray ,
streaked gray , entirely gray , and with HAM )
HEADS , It in specially recommended.
All drUKRlst * . Price , II : also Yale's
Hkln Food. | l SO ; Yale'n Complexion
Cream. 11.00 ; Yale's Face 1'owdur , We ;
Yale's Ucauty Heap , Kc , Mme , Yale
Health and Complexion Upeclaltst ,
Temple of Beauty , 118 State-Hi. . Chi
cago. Quid * to Beauty mailed free.
77
rou
HAY rivi : : COI.DS
Taken early cuts It short promptly. Taken u
preventive , preoccupies the system nnd present *
Its Invasion , Commence taking now.
Uuilov tlio Maliogony
l.urlt l\npruln | ntid Clout.
Overindulgence nt the tnble in rich foods nn <
wines next to online too fait. Is the most com
mon came of I > ) 'pepsin and Clout.
Tlic heat of Hummer causes Hie wrntc stomach
ID ft el "DkklHli" anil nauseated , hnil nature
rlnlin < her ilelil for the wlnlrr'n Indiscretion * .
A < li > 4 ( < of llr lllllilplirj'n Hoinocopallilo Spo-
cllle No. 10. on rMinr In Hie inmnlmr , will
strengthen the stomach nnd rjlw toiu unit vigor.
No ID U tin- true cure forDyspcpxIi , Indigestion ,
nml vvVuk SI mneti.
Ult. Hl'MI'llllY'H SriCll'lCS : arc for snle l > r
uriiEirlsK , 01 si nt flrciulil on lecelpt of prlco. tin.
or II. vn fur + 1. < Mnv lw tiH crlud. ) IMI.Ml'll-
KKVV .MlMMCINi : 00. . corner Wllllniu
nml ilohii SI * . , Now I'orli.
GUARANTEED
FOR 10 YEARS.
C-vnnotlniltttrtecUiomihsfintll
ClrnrWhltc Stone Vnonnonlr
u The llorneo Diamond. Any
ttyle letting in the fineit quality
Solid OeM , ilk. We lime full
line In rlni-i , aludiandcar tlropf.
Solit for $10 on and upwftrilltour
. , price to tlealen. Ij 50. If you
will tend us inur name ami nildrest will semllampte.
either tine. tud or ilrnps to reipouilbte firm , or. If you
trenotMteilby Mercantile AcencleiwIlliemlC. O. D.
ml allow emmlnntlon. Simpfe ent ( ireplIU on rece Pt
of price. If rlncl'wntej ien < < meaiure. We eipecully
call attention of Merclinnts.Uankcrs and Law ) era
to theie t-oodi. Catalogue Tree. ADDUIiSS ,
II. J. UANUIIART & CO. , 56 sth Ave. Chicago.
PATRONIZE
Ily purchasing goods made at the follawlns
N'cbtasUa factories.lf | ) ou cannot find what
S'ou want , communicate with the manufac
turers 0.3 to what dealers handle their Goods.
Ji.HlX. llVJtJ.Al' AXll TWIXK.
BEMIS OMAHA BAG CO"
Manufacturers of nil kinds of cotton and burlap -
lap bags , cotton flour eaclis and twlno a tpeo
laity. C1I-C1G-C1S S. lltli-St.
OMAHA CHEWING ASSOCIATION.
Car load shipments made In our own refrigerator
rater cars. IJluo Hlblwn , nilto Uxpoit , Vienna
Uxport , and Family Uxport , delivered to all
parts of city.
i'0\rinit. \
CONSOLIDATED COFFEE CO. ,
Coffee Roaitern , Spice Grinders , Manufacture
era German Halting Powder and German Drf
Hop Yeust , 1411 and 1116 llatney-st. , Omaha , Neb
OMAIIA UPHOLSTERING CO.
Manufacturers of Parlor rurnlture ,
Dining Tables and 1'oldlnc Ucds. 2Sth ave ,
Uoyd to Shaler Sts.
1VK AND COA. ] , .
SOUTH OMAHA ICE AND COALCO.
Domestic and Steam Coal. We have tha but.
Otflco 1CO1 rarnam-at * Telephone : Office fit ,
yard , 17CS. J. A. Doe , General Manager.
IKOff HOftKA.
INDUSTRIAL IRON WORKS.
Manufacturing and Repairing of all kinds ol
machinery , engines , pumps , elevators , printing
proses , hangers , shafting and coupllncs HO *
aqd UQg Howard-st. , Omalia.
PHOENIX FOUNDRY CO.
Fire lljilmnts. Water and Gas I'lpca.ipeclals ,
Roller Fronts anil Fittings , Street r'y. cat
wheels. Architectural Iron works. Onlce.JOI B.
ICth-st. . Omaha ,
PAXTON & YIERLING IRON WORKS.
Manufacturers of Architectural Iron Work.
General Foundry , Machine and Blacksmith
U'orlc. UnKltiecra and Contiactors for Fir *
Proof DiilldlnuS. Olllco and works : U. 1 > . Ily.
and So. 17th street , Omaha.
MAXUFAUTUJUMl VIIMlllS/ " .
THE MERCER CHEMICAL COMPANY.
Manufacturers of Fluid Extracts , Kllxlr * .
Byrupa and Wines , compressed triturates liypo-
Uermlo tablets , iillls and scientific medical nov
elties. Omaha.
MAfTlll'i.VKl , C'UfJ , CJCI1IS.
L. G DOUP.
Manufacturer Mattresses. Sprlne Beds ; Jobbet
Fcath ra and IMllows. N. llth and Hlcholu
fits. , Omaha.
U'ATlllt.
HEDESSA MINERAL WATER CO. ,
299 Bo. lltti St. , Tel. 254. Medessa Mineral
Water , Carbonated , unequalled. Plain for tabla
use unsurpassed.
NltlllT WATCH , MllK
AMERICAN DISTRICT TELEGRAPH.
The only perfect protection to property. ExamIne -
Ine II , Ucst thlnir on earth. ) Itcduces Insur
ance rates. 1301 Douglas-st.
O YK HA M. 1'A UTUlt IKS.
KATZ-SEYINS CO.
Manufacturers of Men's and Uoys' Clotlilnr ,
Pants. Bhlrts and Overalls.20J-ZU | B. 12th sU
1'AI'KH
THE OMAIIA PAPER BOX CO.
Manufacturers of all kinds of I' P r Boxes ,
Hlitlf lloxes. Hample Cases , Mailing ToMes. tto.
Wedding cake and fancy candy boxes , drugflit
and Jewelry boxes. 1:03-10 Jones-st , Omaha.
Tu'lYANS-NEBRASKA uiRT CO.
Kxcluilva custom shirt tailors.
1SU V rn nvst..Tcl phon 801.
2 - '
2'I
HENRY BOLLN , OMAHA , HUB , , I
Factory In Louisville , Ca s O.o Quajtf Oref brie * , 1
guaranteed aa coo4 s any *
outslda of this stato. Henry Oot I