r EDITORIAL SHEET. " THE OMAHA DAILY BEE.PAGES 9 TO 10. ESTABLISHED JUNE 19 , 1871. OMAHA , WEDNESDAY , MAY 1 , 0 05 TWENTY-EIGHT PAGES. SINGLE COPY FIVE CENTS. FRIENDS OF OTHER DAYS All Send Good Wishes for the Women Ed itors Today * MESSAGES FROM MAIDS AND MATRONS Trom Mexico nnil I.not , from 1'cru nnd the Ucrniuilitn , COIIIB Woril * of Uretitlng nnd Jntcrcitlnc It crlitluiis of the I.timli Wherein They Arc No IT Hojourncrj. plltcd by MISS irnirXWYNNE KHNNEDY. Should nuld acquaintance be forgot An' never brought to mln'7 Should auld acquaintance be forgot An' days o' lang s > ne ? Wo say nol A thousand times no ! So tore are living messages from our absent friends and those who dwell among us no longer , but whose "loyal hearts and true" ( till hold u In kindly remembrance. Such prompt and cordial replies , and such Interesting letters ! Our only regret Is that we are obliged by lack of space to cull a little hero and there , Instead of printing them en tire. tire.As As the wife of our first Congregational min ister , Mrs. Gaylord speaks from experience of \ pioneer mission work In Omaha and OUR FIRST PASTORS AND CHURCHES. How well I remember the unwearied efforts of those early pastors to plant the gospel In Omaha. When we came , on Christmas day , 1855 , there were scarcely 600 people and the llttlo embryo city was In Its Infancy. Mr. Gaylord found no religious organization ex cept a small Methodist class , under the care ot Rev. Mr. Collins. A Congregational church was organized on tin- first Sabbath of May , and churches of other denominations were soon gathered. Two houses of worship , Congregational and Meth odlst , were built In 185G-D7. I cannot recall the name of the first Episcopal rector , but those early residents who still remain will , It Is * hoptd , cherish loving memories of him , and of Mr. Gaylord , Congregatlonallst ; Mr. Uames , Daptlst : Mr. Webster and Mr. Dim Ick , Presbyterian , and others who labored In the good cause. Omaha cannot fully realize , but I trust wll ! not forget , that she owes much of her re llgtous , educitlona ! and commercial prosperity to thosj self-denying men , who laid founda tions for Its highest and surest future welfare. Your ladles many of whom I love to think ot as my true friends have my best wishes for success In the enterprise they have under , taken. Yours very sincerely , M. W. GAYLORD. Rcdlands , California. Our earlier settlers will also remember Mr and Mrs J. II. Kellom with reaped and affec tlon. Mrs. Kellom while feeling herself un able to write us a letter , sent most kindly greetings , while her daughter , Mrs. Adams , has given us an account of EARLY OMAHA SOCIETY. Omaha was In a very primitive state when ono bright morning In the early springtime V 1S56 we landed there. We were twelve days In Journeying up the muddy Missouri from Leavcnworth , Kan. , as the pilot of the boat on which we sailed knew so little of the channels of the river. Our progress might bo aptly described by "Mother Goose" In her melodies , for now "wo went up , up , up , and then wo went down , down downoy. " nut at last with clad and grateful hearts wo saw the llttlo town , oven then dignified by the title of city. ' The Inhabitants manifested their sociabil ity as wo approached the wharf by men , women and children , Including the red man of the forest , gathering to greet and wel come the newcomers. The social life of the people was , of course , crude In those early days , living as they did In small , unpretentious homes and some hav ing no houses betaking themselves to tent life until they could do better. Yet In toso llttlo homes there were lov ing hearts and true , and without the alii of diamonds , rubles and pearls , or Worth's I elaborate toilets , they met and passed the evening , oven to the coming of the wee sma' hours of the morning. "High fives. " with less dignified names , were Indulged In , and real llfo was much more sensitive than the artificial llfo of this present time. Parties of various l.lnds were frequently given and luncheons nnd teas , not because these geol citizens felt obliged to return favors re ceived In order to keep In the "social swim , " but because of the true enjoyment and bospl- tallty felt. There were no elegant mansions to be opened and displayed , no table service of 1 flno Dresden or Scrrcs , no menu ot dozens of courses with French nomenclature and caterers , but the nicest of homo sulslne , pleasant ami palatable and healthful. In those curly days In Omaha there was uncommon Intelligence among the gentlemen and moro than ordinary musical talent , so that lectures on various subjects by home talent and exceedingly Interesting concerts nnd muslcales were given wthout any prlma donna , barltono or basso. At those social gatherings there were no newspaper reporters present vu ubllsh In the morning's Issues elaborate nitlcles tell ing how Mrs. and Miss So and So were gowned , and the beautiful floral display. Everything was so hearty nnd hospitable and full of good cheer I doubt If the elabor ate entertainments ot the present can have the real enjoyment ot those early days of Omaha social life. "A wonJorful stream Is the river of life , " nnd thouglt progress Ii berne aloft on Its topmost wave. It is doubt ful If the enjoyment of the citizens of the growing "metropolis" Is as pure anJ oxhllcr- atlng as was that of the social llfo ot youthful Omaha.CLARA CLARA KELLOM ADAMS. Mr1 ! Dana Lander writes from Chicago : It was \cry kind of you to think of me , and thinking of me , to honor me by a request to write something for you. I appreciate It and regret the press ot a thousand things to do must make mo appear lacking In amiability. With all good wishes for the- entire success of your plan , I am most cordially ) ours , LOUISE IJAMS LANDER. While Mrs. Colonel Bird icnds her greet ing from Columbus , Ohio : I am heartily In sympathy with the efforts of the ladles of Omaha , for "nvvce-1 charity's eake , " and have no doubt , among eo many talented vvutven as you have , your publication will be a brilliant success. I shall watch for the edition with much In terest. Yours cordially. MARY C. BIRD. Mrs. II. M. James cannot write on account ot her eyes , but sends all good wishes and Ulndly greetings through her daughter. Mrs. O. N. Ramsey writes In answer to our request for a letter from Los Gates : A letter ! What have I to say ? Los Gates Is a real Sleepy Hollow ; nothing ever hap pens bere ; the Omaha public does not care to Know what I pay Allesandro Glampaoll for vegetables ! I am sure this same public has had descrip tions of California flowers ad muneam. I know nothing ot the Chinese question or the njw wsman. so ' you eee J am qulto cut ot date and hopele'ssly Ignorant. ' U gave me great pleasure to receive your letter , and I know I was not forgotten. There will never be any place like Omaha to me. Honing the paper will boa great success , I remain. Yours sincerely. .itM , ' ' ' MARY EDQAR RAMSEY. Mrs. Edwin E. Mason ot Fort Snelllng , Minn. , says. ; I find my lime to full of things which I ought not , and Indeed cannot , neglect , that I feel constrained to forego the pleasure It would give me to add my little ralto to your Rood work. I retain a , very itCcctlonato regard and In- * A k , - _ V ti . * - A * * terest In my OmaTia friends and thank them for remembering me. Very sincerely , FRANCES K. MASON. Mrs. J. W. McKcan , after five years In that comparatively unknown country , can spcnk with authority on life In Laos. The people of Laos resemble their half- brothers the Siamese , but are considered by every one ( except the Siamese themselves ) , a superior race. They are certainly more teachable , seemingly moro desirous of Im proving their condition religiously and far moro lovable than their neighbors on the south. Though the customs and habits of the two people differ somewhat they are allko In that the lives of both are filled with super-j billions which seem most ridiculous to us. Every phenomenon of nature , every dis ease , In fact , everything the cause of which Is not apparent , Is shrouded In supersti tion. tion.They believe the earth to bo flat and poised on the back of nn Immense fish which sleeps most of the time. Earthquakes and tides are caused by the movements of the flhs. A lunar eclipse Is supposed to be caused by a frog devouring the moon. At such times there Is gre-at commotion all over the country. Beating of drums , gongs and cymbals , fireworks and firing of guns , whllo those who can make noise In no other way do so by shouting and screaming. The pur pose of all this Is to frighten away the frog. I shall never forget an eclipse which I saw whllo in Laos. At the first bite of the frog , so to speak , the nolso began nnd in- .sldo of a few minutes there was such a din all over the city that It was almost Im possible to carry on a conversation. This continued until the eclipse bad passed. The burial customs arc Interesting. To did of old ago or fever Is to "die good , " butte to die from any other cause shows lack of merit and Is to "die bad. " If ono "dies good" the body can bo burned. The clothing must bo put on backward and must be torn The body may be bathed and the hair combed , but If one "dies bad" he must bo burled as he died. The body cannot be bathed or the clothing changed. The law of the land absolutely forbids any dead body being taken across any bridge , largo or small. The marriage ceremony consists In the hands of tbo bride and groom being tied together and then they are blessed by some aged person who was previously selected. They ore then released and each wrist of the couple Is encircled with a string and they are again blessed , as follows : "May you each live 220 years. " The husband returns to his own home after the ceremony and visits his wife every day for three or four days , and when they have become ac quainted he moves to her parents' home. Ho must live there until another daughter Is married , when ho may go and establish a home ot his own. If his wife Is on only daughter ho remains and helps support his parents-In-lavv as long as they live. If he does not consent to this he cannot marry the daughter. Polygamy Is not usual among the common people. Generally speaking , the hueband and wife live happily together. Woman holds a higher place here than In most heathen countries. She has perfect freedom InJ I have been told she takes charge of the family jipcklbost. ! r- According to Duddhlst teachings , a woman cannot begin to bo saved until she has merll enough to ba reborn as a man. The women are very zealous In their religion , going often to the temples and from their scanty store making gifts to their gods. The religious llfo of the people enters Into their political and social life and they are so Interwoven that It Is almost Impossible to separate them. The country is lull of temples and the temples full of Idols. In each temple there Is usually ono large Idol placed on a pedestal and about Its base arc multitudes of smaller ones. Sometimes the Jdol Is so- large that a separate building Is devoted to It. Near Cheung Wai , the capltol of I ios , there Is a reclining Idol ninety feet long , entirely cov ered with gold leaf. Often times the entire front of n temple will bo covered with gold leaf , dotted here and there with bright colored pieces of glass , which shine and sparkle In the sun , making a very pretty sight. Some of the temples have fallen Into decay and are picturesque enough to satisfy emples have been deserted by the priests. emples have been dscrted by the priests. The Idols are then supposed to change Into evil spirits. The largo Idols are especially 'eared and It would bo next to Imposslb'e ' to persuade a native to pass a deserted temple after dark. There Is much throughout the country to ntercst and attract travelers. One can with lerfect safety traverse the length and jreadth of the land. Early this morning we were awakened by the shifting of our car No. 26 Texas Pa cific , from the express train to a side track , where we were to spend a delightful day. We were seven In our special car , taking n the bautles and joy ; ' ot Mexico , and had decided to spend Sunday In this curious old village , with Its still more curious baths. Presently I heard a voice say In a low tone : "Are you awake ? I can't sleep. " As I re plied In the affirmative , the voles went on , "Well , let us get up and have our dip before breakfast'I have been awake hours. " So s\o quietly dressed , and on emerging from our sections found that the gentlemen were out of the car looking with Interested eyes towards the baths. Thesz baths were about 200 feet from the railway. Wo quickly Joined our friends and moved towards the long , low adobe houses , which contained the object of our visit. The buildings ore on three sides of a square. In the middle of a square and open towards the street Is a pretty garden with walks , shrubs and flower beds. Going up a few steps we found ourselves on a platform , or raised sidewalk. On the left was a large , free swimming bath. On the north was a row of low Gothic doors , and over them the notice that some baths were 20 cents , and some 25 cents. We Inquired the meaning , and were told by our Spanish student that tli3 25-cent baths had towels , otherwise you provided your own. After choosing one of these apartments , the at tendant brought a largo Turkish towel , a piece of new soap , and a bunch of the nepal plant , shredded for a sponge , and a linen sheet exquisitely clean. It seemed like going Into a convent cell at first , the long , low room , the floor tiled with glazed red brick , and the only light from a little window at the further end near the celling. The fur nishings consisted of a rush bottom chair , a rush mat , and a shelf with a looking glas& over It. An arch led the way to the bath n pool of warm water at least twenty fret square , and the blue sky and bright sun for a roof. After enjoying to the full this Ideal "tub , " and leisurely dressing , I left reluc tantly only to find that my door was being beaten , and1 I was being Implored to make haste that wo might have our Breakfast. On the right sldo were smaller bath rooms , the marble tub set down In the floor so that ono walked down steps Into the water , but they seemed ordinary after our late luxurious experience - . < jy After uf'eakfust wa took the single mule car and drove through the narrow , dusty and apparently endless street to the forlarn plaza We found near by the little Presbyterian mission , and went In to have a few words with the faithful pastor. To our regret the service was too late for us to catch our train , so the minister kindly had a llttU tervlce for ug , and we started on our Journey refreshed In body and soul. Our car belongs to our whilom Council Dlufls neighbor , General Dodge , and we have as cook his servant , an Omaha man. Many times do Miles and I discuss the delights of dear Omaha , and wish we could be there moro. Faithfully yours. JEANIE WOOLWORTH HOWARD. Agua Callente , Mexico. ' MVV oitLi : \ > 8 IN AIMIIL , . Features of Llfo In th * Old Creole Town Awnjr Down hbiitli. It has often been said that when you visit New Orleans you must gq In Mardl Gras time , but I have found the present month ot April a very pleasant tlnio to see the city of New Orleans In everyday attire. Just at present , however , the streets are In a dis ordered condition , as the old horse cars are being replaced by the electric cars through out the city. v There are many curious things to bo seen and heard here. One of thecurious , sounds Is a colored vender going around singing , "I wonder If my Redeemer will save a poor sinner like me ? " He has tlnwaro to sell. The people here entomb their dead In a strange fashion. The water is so near the surface that when a body Is put In the ground , as Is sometimes done , tbo coffin ac tually floats In the water , but generally bodies are put In tombs , built above ground. Funeral notices are written , or printed , and placarded on the street corners. The houses are surrounded by very high fences , and the door be- ) ) js attached to the gate , and when one wishes , to make a call she pulls the bell and If It Is not out of order , which It often Is , the servant appears and unlocks the gate and. .esjcocts her to the house. In the newer parts , ot the town there are a great many modern nouses , with a Tew of tbo old style. I think the modern houses look a little out of placet bbre. The levee and tha HnJnch market were pointed out to mo as ebJactSvOf Interest , but I do not care for the/ir. ; Hie.levee Is a broad , high bank , very high abele , tlio level of the river , and built of sand ami oyster shells , and the air all around there smells strongly of stale oysters or fish. To see the French market at Its best one- moat get up at G o'clock Sunday morning. The French quarter of the city Is very Interesting , with Its narrow streets and old , old houses , some with tiled , , roofs. Its stuffy shops on the ground floor , while the second and third stories are ued ae dwellings , the broad galleries extending over the banquettes , as the sidewalks are called. In the- heart of the French quarter , and one ot Its most pic turesque features , U the Archeveque ( the archbishop's residence ) , formerly the Ursu- llno convent. We spent t. few minutes In the St. Louis cathedral , whlcj Is large , old and quaint. There was a priest In the pulpit preaching In French. The worshipers were of several colors , and scattered around the building. Some ot the \vbmen bad market baskets and some of the picn had parcels , as though they had Just stepped In to pray a Kills prayer as they wcra passing. The Jesull church Is of the Byzantine style of architecture , la a beautiful building ot good proportions and One coloring. , i I attended services cite Sunday at the Firit Presbyterian church , Rev. D. M , Pal- in or , D. D. , pastor. Dr , Palmer has a wide reputation , both as a pulpit and occasional orator The church Is a very old one. It Is quite large. The terylce was very enjoyable and I could not realize that the doctor Is as old as he really is. Tbera la much that I would like to cay of this church , and of the city , but time and space forbid. SARAH A. NOLL. New Orleans , April , 1895. Curntviil 'lima In I.linn. Shrove-tlde , all over the Latin-Christian world , Is a time of merry-making and folly. Of the absurdities of the carnival In cer tain parts of Europe , and one or two of our own cities , almost everybody knows some thing ; but very little , Indeed , is known of that period In South American towns. Upon the approach of my first Lenten sea son In Lima , I was warned of what might bo expected If I ventured Into the streets , from the Sunday morning before Ash Wednesday until Tuesday night. At the same time I was told that the sports of the season had greatly moderated of late. All of the older houses , as In most Spanish- American towns follow the Moorish style of architecture. First comes the heavy wall , pierced by the great "porte-cochere , " and Its dcepseated windows , with gratings , more or less orna mented and gilded. From above and across the entire front project solid , closed bal conies , resembling a narrow conservatory. In the more modern dvselllngs tliess bal conies do not appear , as a municipal decree prohibiting them was passed about tvventy-flvo years ago. This was partly on account of earthquakes , but more because of the narrowness of the streets. The abolishment of the admirable hiding pieces furnished by these balconies may have had something to do with the dying out of the broader features of the carnival "play. " For from the modern upper windows , flush with the public streets , except for the merest apology for a balcony , It must be difficult , as It Is certainly a not verypretty piece of busi ness to pitch a bucket ot water upon the pedestrian below. This liquid , never by any cl'snce anything but dirty , was called In fine irony "lavender water , " and Its recipient was privileged to retaliate to the full extent ot his Ingenuity and physical adroitness. Lima houses nlvvays stand Invitingly open and un guarded , except In the case of the very rich , who employ a door porter ; so the challenged passerby at carnival time could easily enter by the "patlr , " and , climbing the broad stairway , seek his revenge. If ho uic- ceeded In finding his fair assailant a merry babble ensued , which resulted some times In an Involuntary plunge by the ladles of the house Into their own bath tubs. In preparing to thus "play carnival , " Llmanlans put on garments whosa utility had BO far outlived their beauty that what ever befell them was a matter of compara tive Indifference to their wearers. Woman , however , by no means always take the Initiative In these sports. The men go about on horseback armed with huge pewter syringes full of all sorts of liquids , although among respectable people they were some sort ot perfumes. These they emptied Into the face or eyes caught peep ing from behind the sheltering curtains of the balcony. Ono class of carnival players In the old days , was the "egg throwers. " AD explanation of their peculiar functions Is needless. Today ono sees In Lima none of the ex tensive sports of Shrovetide as practiced while that lovely city was llttlo known to Europeans or North Americans. The most one has now to dread In passing along the streets is an occasional spraying of Florida water or the reception ot the contents of a broken bag of colored , scented powders. Some times the powders strike your head , some times your face , but more often your back and shoulders and you are apt to present a curious appearance until you reach a friendly shelter and get the telltale decoration brushed away. The only pedestrians allowed to move on unmolested are the passing priests and his attendants carrying the last consolation of the church to some poor mortal who has the misfortune to bo dying at this merry time. With the approach of the host , heralded by the tinkling bells ot the acolytes , not only does all fun cease , but an attitude of rever ence Is adopted by the "players. " Down they fall upon tholr knees , with bowed heads. The gringo who , unfamiliar with the customs of the country , ventures to pass by the sacred proccEslon without these outward tokens of respect If apt to faro 111 at the hands ot the natives for his apparent want of reverence. - Tuesday evening the carnival closes with dances and receptions. Wednesday morning all Is changed. A perfumed stillness settles over the town and the devout make preparations for tbo Ash Wednesday mass which ushers In the dreaded time of fasting and abstlnanco from an > thing approaching pleasure. SYUIL RUSSELL DOGUE. So often , so sadlv , the people pay 1'nsHlnK nvvny ! Ever passing nvviiy ! That the words have borrowed a pensive tone And n shade of sadness not their own. And I fain would reclaim the notes ngaln , From their minor key on the lips of men , And make the refrain of my glnddest lay Passing away ! Ever passing away ! For what Is transient nnd what shall last ? What makes Its grave In the growing past ? And what lives on In the deathless spheres. Wl ere naught corrodes by the rust of years ? Ooes Time , who gathers our fiilrcst flowers , Destroy no weeds In this world of ours ? Whnt rises victorious o'er dull decay , And what Is It that Is passing away ? The trivial things of this earthly life , Its petty cnres. Its noise and strife , Its riches that moth and rust can spoil , Its weary burdens and thankless loll , Its clouds of anguish and * dark dlnmay Those are the things that are passing away. But the heart's best treasures of faith and love Bear the seal of deathlessness from above. While our Heavenly Father's throne Is sure , While eternal aces shall endure , We need not grieve for the Joys of sense That ilny nfter day are panning hence. Though the heavens depart and the whole , wide world Do taken away like a banner furled , Though the nun and the twinkling stars be gone , Our deathless happiness llveth on. As we mount heaven's stairway we need not grieve . . . . For the rich carved work of the steps we leave , For brlKhtcr than nil that has gone before Is the near approach to the palace door. And , oh. the Joy when we enter In. And find naught pone but the etalns of sin , And know ns we look back OVIT the way That only tbo shadows were passing awny. May 1 , ItoJ. J. M. C. II. for Itielf. "What Is It you want , anyhow ? " asked the gold dollar , "To be perfectly honest , " answered the sil ver dollar , "I want to be about twice as big and heavy as I am. " Chicago Tribune. Robert Louis Stevenson's will , dated 1893 , provides fully for hli mother and his relatives on hla father's side , and leaves to hli wife In life rent the part of hli father's ettate held by bis mother , likewise In life rent all the rest of his money , books , royalties , manu scripts and other effects , which are to go In fee , upon her decease , to her son , Samuel Lloyd Otbourne- , who la made residuary lega tee. A llfo rent Is bequeathed to Mr. Sidney Colvln , Messrs. Charles Baxter and Henry 1 Jamei are appointed executors. The Outlook. GLIMPSES OF AYRSHIRE Honeymoon Moandcrings of a Conpla in tbi Land o * the Leal , THE MONTGOMERIES AT EGLINTON CASTL1 A Itiiltvrnjr Arclilcnt llrlng * Tocctlicr T\r ( SHiiiliorn fit the dim unit ( ! | 'cm I ho Ay fur n ful Visit , Through the kindness of her sister wo nr < pcnnltti'il to publish Mrs. John V. Monb gurnet le's "Glimpses uf Ayrshire. " EOL1NTON CASTLE. Ayrshire. Srot1.mil. My Dear Margaret : Just notlco vv litre ttill letter Is dated , will you ? Prom a real castle- , and such a castle tool Yes , your plain , slm plo sister , Hester Montgomcrle , Is the guest ot an carl nml a countess In tills grand olj castls of theirs and how It happened you \\ouhl never guess. Before I tell you let mo describe my present abiding place. It Is a stately , baronial ft met tire , second to few In Scotland for dignity , and > ct It has a cheerful and \\iiisoino look withal man of beauty than of etatellness. The site has something to dolth this , thfl noble trees Inhlch It Is embowered , thu waters of the stream that flow past tlip rear of the castle and above all the soft grey ton * of the walls and towers and the masses ot dark green Ivy Jn which they areclothed. . It Is n perfect picture. Never , perhaps- , liavo the feudal fortress nml the convenient modern duelling been combined In a more per. feet harmony. The Interior Is Just what one would expect from the exterior. The gre.it entrance hall Is rich In suits of armour anil other relics. Including a" chair made In ISIS from oak ot the roof of Allaway Kirk. The salon a circular apartment Into which several of the main roams converge hns H walls draped with binners , each of which has an Interesting history. The library Is n large and noble room.H csijoclally rich In local literature , and tin spacious dining room with Its beautiful pic tures Is a plnco for feasting the eyes as well as the physical man. Hero hangs a portrait of Mary Sralon , ona of the "Four Maries" of the ballad , whosa necklace , by the way , Is still worn on occa sions by the countess of Egllnton. And her * also Is the likeness of the wlfo of tln < ninth carl , Susanna Kennedy , the greatest beauty of her time. It was to her that Allan Ham- say dedicated his "Gentle Shepherd" and Dr. Johnson counted It one of the crowning honori of his llfo that this lady , then elghty-fiv years of ago , received him at Auchaus , Besides these portraits In the dining room , many other beautiful pictures rejoice the artistic eye. A scene In Venice , said to bo Queen Victoria going to a masked ball ; a portrait by Reynolds of Jean , wife of tha eleventh carl ; a head of Rubins by himself and other gems , which repay careful study. On the second lloor are six suites of bed rooms , furnished by the late earl for the re ception of five duchesses , who were all hla guests ut the bnmo time and now one of the suites Is occupied by John and me ! And , yet , I haven't told you how wo cim to be lure ! Well , Just a moment and I will. The castle grounds are simply magnificent. Imagine a "yard" of 1,310 acres surroundqd by a flno stone wall. Think of taking a six- mile drive Inside your own grounds ! Gardens and grassy glades , plantations and drives the finest bowling green In Urltaln one might live hero In content , I should think , even if the castle Is quite modern bnlt ! as recently ) BS 1790 on the site of an older building. Heally , Margaret , although I have been a , Montgomcrle only two months , and though John cannot trace our connection straight back to the chief stem I am proud of the family ! Hut. to relieve your curiosity and tell you how we got here. At last John has had that longed-for adventure , and luckily I was along to help him enjoy It. Two days ago wo left Glasgow enroutc for the land of the Montgonurlcs. About half way between Glasgow and Ayr the train sud denly Jumped the track which had spread op something , I don't know Just what and rolled off the embankment Into a deep ditch. Our coach being turned up-slde-dow n , John and I found ourselves In a heap on what had ! been the celling ot our compartment , but as no bones were broken wo were soon safe out- sldo , bag and baggage. Our exit , however , was not made with the greatest dignity I in- . nglnable , as the door was locked and we departed - parted through n window. The next coach was plied on top of the on * which had been In front of It and wo could Just see the waving hands of some one ? trying to escape from the under coach. John went to the rescue and succeeded after much difficulty In prying up the top cap enough to allow a gentleman and his fifteen- year-old son to scramble out unhurt. In their gratitude they made themselves our guides to an Inn not far distant , and. chatting on the way thither , discovered thatj we were "two Mongomerlcs from America.- on our way to visit the home of our an cestors. " Quoth the elder gentleman : "I am also R member of that clan. You must permit mei , to bo your cicerone whllo jou stay , " andh forthwith carried us off bodily to KgllntonJ castle , when It appeared that hs was nonet other than the head of the clan the cartl himself. ' So here we arc , and my next shall tell ofc our trips to Cralglo house and Croeble castle. ' which will remind you of "Scottish Chiefs , " ! since they belonged to the family of Sir Wil liam Wallace , Hlalr house and Culzean castla. and Cassllls House on the Doon. Till then.I farewell. Your loving sister , , HESTER MONTGOMEUIB. J II. The second week of our stay at Egllnton U now at an end and a busy week It ha * been , too. Wo have been "doing" this parti of Ayrshire most thoroughly , taking In most ! of the famous places In the district as well as the lesser houses of the Mongomcrlcs. I think Ulalr house Interested me most ot all that wo have seen excepting Egllnton , ot course. Hlalr house Is the oldest Inhabited , baronial mansion In Scotland. " > It was erected about 1310 and added to In 1010 and 1G39 and here It stands today , Just as It looked then. Thought not without ele ments of picturesque beauty , the old housov has a plain homelike look. It ls on oblong building , four stories h.tih with a slngla. tower , and stands on a semi-circular plateau ! some fifty feet nhovo the little river that } iklrts Its northern side. I You enter by a door with wicket through which the watchman peeped before drawing- the bolts and letting down the draw bridge , and In the hall standi a figure clad In the verltabla armor of Sir Uryco Hlalr , the patriot ot Wallace's time. When you pass through walls fourteen feet , thick and see all preparations for defense , you can realize something of the stormyu days when tills old house was built , whoa , Iloger de Ulalr fought by the slda ot Ilruce. 1 Think , Margaret , of a family which canj trace an unbroken line , living In the same house for more than GOO years ! Then we visited Cralgle house , which ba- longed to Sir William Wallace , and Crosblo castle. In which that hero himself once lived. Perhaps the grandest place we saw wail a rustle , part of which was built before 1057 , although additions have been made even In this century. It Is nearly cquare and con * tains upwards of ninety apartments. Tha entrance hall Is seventy feet long , by thirty } feet wldo , and la open to the roof. It con * tains many flno pictures and a library of over 8,000 volumes. The most Interesting thing In It In my eyes , gt least U the two-handed sword ot William Wallace , Culzean castle , though very beautiful , lo cated as It la on the top of n high cliff rlilng precipitately out of the sea , Is altogether 100(4 modern for our discriminating taste , being only a ( rifle over 100 years old. Many other Interesting places have wo seen , and of all our trip , I am sure the two woeki at Egllnton will furnish the most golden. recollrrtlomi. Lovingly your slater. . , HESTER