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t ! SIIE } L\.II.A"iDAILY BEE : SUNDAY , FEnn.UAR"Y7 ' 3 , 18. if }
tl l ? ROCIS { FOR LITTLE 'l C OLIiS (
-
, ? arty CcstumcB for Juvenile Members or
Sccoty : Considered Quito the Thing
fLORICULTURE FROFITABLE FOR WOMEN
-
, I" ' Nov..llles for lboComing9prmg
aexpensirn ! \ ;
IcRSu.I-\\"mcn ! III the JllurnRlhUo
Plelddrnruale , Archltrcls-
rnshilln olclllll(1 UIIAIIII' ,
NEW YORK , Feb. 3.-Sp ( clal.-As ) with
( heir grownup relatives , party frocks : for
Uny ; l11ahb are now settled affairs.
In truth , they are a shade too tllell-It
bne may still use the oc1.tashloned ! term In
the grov : . n.up sense ; silks , satins and dla
pIanous ! gauzes not being entirely approved
or as proper coverings for young bone3. They
nit seem to melt the baby girl too early Into
the woman ; to make luxury commonplace
and to rob the years too came at that maiden
lJal.plness that goes with the first silk gown ,
Some ot my IIllle lally's now party tracks
are entrancing / cieallons. Whether she Is
1 01" 14 , her sleeves arc stiffened and , mad !
large , and taffeta slll . the vll.tashloned , taf
feta In delicate Dresden ) china patterns , Is a
favorite material Jor one gown
Often whim thl , only IJlllln satin to match :
Mme predominating tint In the figure , taffeta
wlll : bo used as trimming.
Again , revers , bows , rosettes , and oven
I3leevea will he made or velvet , and real lace
pn a 6-'ear.olll gown Is' no uncommon sight.
A dashing dance frock for a girl 01 9 , lately
Men at a Filth avenue chlhlren's function
% vas trimmed with blonde , lace , the same
misty , "livery blonde lace Eugenl first made
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fashionable In , I'rance. The frock Itself was
In white and peach bloom ] pink taffeta , a
mat'rlal t allen s Itself to delightfully young
effects.
. . ,
.i . . The full skirt or the taffeta which was
, . .1paUerned with , flowered stripes on n white
ground , was unlined and made plain. Where
It joined the short-waisted body , that fastened
In the hack , It was finished with a cord cov-
ered with a taffeta bias. The short balloon
sleeves were of deep peach bloom Liberty
satin , as were likewise the lour square
brotelle3 that hung from the round , low neck ] ,
'whlcb was , made possible for February by an
Inside gump ot blond net over white silk.
Thera were also long , cosy undersleeves ,
bishop shape , of the silk and velvet , anti
under limo flared bretelles hung the blonde
, . t lace edging : In a Iour-Ineh width , falling liter-
' . If y ally In cascades over sleeves and body , rant
and bael A lawn petticoat that was sewed
securely to the inside 81\rt.b:1IId \ : , and trimmed
I > " with u full lace-edsed flounce , put the finish-
ing touch to the adorable ensemble.
After the same model as this alarmingly
grown-up dance frock was made one for II
girl of 12 : , In white and yellow china silk.
This gown ( , however was without under-
sleeves , the round puffs being the only protection -
tectlon to the slim , bare arms.
m Liberty satin In n. rich butter yellow composed -
posed the sleeves and revers , anti four great
rosettes or the same ornamented the short-
waisted body , side , fronts and back , al the
waist line.
Like taffeta : , chine silk , In delicate , shad-
, " .t oIVy deshns Is admitted as a juvenile ma-
. terlal Twelve years , however , Is set down
.o liS the youngest ago for Its wearing , and when
used for older maids the skirts are sometimes -
times IUffened : and shaped very much 111(0
the grown-up models. It lends Itself to
dainty ailll festive effects and when con- :
shlorod tram the poInt or silk \ , Is not wickedly
dear.
dear.A more economical and equally as dainty
A material : as taffeta and chino for young
party frocks Is crepen , which IIIIlY be either
white or colored
It the ) crllll'rthe ribbons that go wIth
a orepon gown are while also.
It the little track , which , say Is any age
from 7 to 10 ( ) , Is colored , the trimmings may
s bl of velvet , Ilya , contrasting ! shade , though
tt daintier results are made by having the whole
costume In ana tone.
It cost Is no object , chiffon and velvet com-
pose happily.
A very magnificent little toilet for a girl or
7 has n kilted ; skirt or Pink chiffon over slll .
and a tiny bolero jacket-bOOy of emerald
. green velvet with biscuit lace revers.
Ono cf double Its expense , and ten times
its elegaaco , Is at embroidered muslin In a
deep yellow , with untlerslh shoulder knots
, . and waist rosettes of salmon pink . II Is
h A l _ made after the model at life taffeta gown 110-
, scrlbod , and which Is a favorite ono for girls
trout 4 to 9. 'fho snlmon.Ilnk ribbons arc Its
4 only trimmings , but the back or the short
lInk ) sm petticoat Is stiffened to stand out
with French smartness The shirred galllil
and bishop undersleeves are or the plain
muslin.
This smashing little rig Is an importation
, , for a blonde young lady or Ii , but any clever
d k mamma could accomplish It nt comparatively
little cart and trouble
As to the youthful cavalier who Is to Ilanco
with little miss , It seems to he quite decided
that his party clothes must be 01 vI'lvet. For
entail \ men , tram Ii to 7 , the suit Is generally
In two pieces , knee breeches and a short
jacket , with square fronts , to bo worn with
Qn' elaborate muslin shirt.
r lIalllholl\oly soutached with silk brllld ,
these little suits come only In black , and can
i be bought ready made from $20 up
Young gentlemen tram 7 to 11,1 an some-
times given to court dancing : suits , which
often Inchu1e. with knee breeches and ( a
tailed scat a long vest at rich brocaded IIlIk.
( Desilies this magnificence , n throat jabot alt
wrist rullles of lace will add , further glory to
the court costume , which Is most often In
black velvet , but which Is especially hand-
BOllle when In dark greeu They are likewise \ (
richly braided , and can be hllli readY'lIIadl' .
' An effective dance gel.up for a good looking
m boy , anywhere between 7 and )1,1 , might be
copied tram the hunting coats and knee
breech that are now showing themselves In
; French drawing roollls. The coat , the usual
cutaway hunting shape , Is ot scarlet cloth :
the breeches or black , fastened : at the knee
with a strap and buckle
At the children's party aforementioned , one
of these suits was worn , and all the afternoon
lhq miniature man was the object oC many
shy admiring e'C3.
, A FORTUNKJN ) J'LOWIUtl
1"lurlculluro Offers Woml'n IIrl&lIhrut 1 1U.
"IOfIU1IIIt 1&11.1 1101111.8 " 1'rn11U .
With a few hundred lollars ! a woman could ,
In a small tawIl , build a couple or
greenhouses and ! stock them with l'lmt :
The strong , hardy plants would be better to
start with , and they are also good growol'S'
geraniums , verbenas hellotropes . lilies , ox
ails an4 prJmrjJses. With these she could do
, , 11 nice little lmsll1eas , and liS the returns
began to come In for her investment she
could \ enlarge her borders , nod building yet
another house , ' might stock It with roses ,
j
. . . Affect enatoUy dedicated to IIIUe THEODORE ; HARRY COHN ,
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Copyright , 894. . by The New York 1\lIdc ! 1 Record Co. .
which , Ir welt grown , are always salable and
command high prices
A pit for early pansies and violets Is also
n good thing. These must bo propagated In
February and grown In a cool place until
they are ' planted out or doors-possibly In
April , sometimes In May If the season Is
very cold. Transplant again In the early
fall ere the frost nips them to a comfortably -
ably warm house and If well tended , kept
moIst , but never overwatered , the violets and
pansies will bring good rovenue. This Is
charming wore ] for a woman , easy light and
sure ot success. Then the disbudding ot car-
nations Is a pleasant task , only filled for a
woman's hand , but , as one watches the
florist with big , clumsy fingers so delicately
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DELIGHTFUL GRUBUING ,
handling and breaking away the ten-
der new shoots , and with his wide ,
fiat thumb pressing them down Into
the salt , rich loam to male a new
plant , one feels a conviction that at least ho
knows hew , and that a woman , even with her
smllll l lingers , could have been no more
dalnllly careful
A house for carnations Is also paying , for
tllllY are almost endless bloomers It well
cared for That Is , IC kept free from weeds
during limo summer when they are In the
field , and also kept well topped ,
One woman , who had been an Invalid , took
UI II few years ago limo work of a florist
hoping to acquire health and strength : and
honey She succeeded In doing all threo.
M IIrat , ( she only undertook the lightest part
oC the work , dlsblllldlng , slipping and transplanting -
planting the flowers , working In the warm ,
loamy soil , spending almost every day for
months In the open air , and In the winter
planting ! and training the flowers In time
/reen-houses , cutting the blossoms twice and
three times a day , and packing them for Ihlp-
mont. Fiomaq ethereal creature of seventy
pounds weight she developed Into a
strong : healthy woman , weighing 111 the
neighborhood : ; of twice that and second best
to that was a complete success In tile line ot
1I0rlcullure. Beginning with only n shed
green.houlle , they ( bull ( compels the admission -
mission ot n husband In the case ) have today \
thirteen large green . housea , and one or the
largest tralllea In the west , growing pansies
not to be excelled In beauty or site and roses
that the "Hoosier po t" might have had In
mind when ho wrote the lines
"As bloseony Bwata ns the bloom of the
roses ,
The angels might sniff WId their delicate
noses. " -
\\"IIIIUln In JournaIU "
Advocates at what Is somewhat vaguely
called the "ad\'encement or woman" have tong
since put dally journalism down among the
vocations open to her , Year by year the \
advanced woman has pervaded newspaper
omeca In Increasing numben. Her Influence
there hi aald-uJually by people disconnected
with journallllu-to be II refining one. She
" I
.
- -
Is thought to have mitigated the asperIties of
journalistic lIe just as she promises to cure
the crying evils or politics Ir man will but
give her the ballot. To be sure , the Chicago
Times observes , there are still vulgarltlE',3 In
journalism despite wOlllan's entrance upon its
activities , and Colorado politics , notwithstanding -
standing the unlimited suffrage enjoyed by
women there , have not been exactly or a !
model Eort. Still the advancement at woman
Is not to bo stayed by mere Cacts.
From that excellent publication , the New
York World almanac , we gather a few evi-
dences or the refining influence or woman
upon New York journalism. With characteristic -
terlstlo modesty the World prefaces Its year '
book with a hlstcry or Its exploits and the
shining deeds ot Its employes during the year
1894. We suppose the World employs some
masculine persons and that they occasionally
tlo something by way or earning their sala-
ries , but nothing In this history or the year
Indicates such to be time tact. The only
names celebrated with blare or brass and
beating or cymbals are the world-Camous
ones , Nelly DIy and Meg , Merrilies. For
these young persons 1894 must have been a
period or sonic excitement. Ennui can
hardly have seized upon them. Parkhurst
has led n. life or monotony In comparison
with theirs , and a central station detective
might well be buncoed by two such' ' exceed-
Ingly knowing Ilamsels. Miss DIy , It ap-
pears , Investigated mho wickedness of Sara-
toga , visited all time gambling houses , and
IntervIewed the proprietor of the biggest
one thoughtfully / ; giving him , as the almanac
maker puts It , "an opportunity to , justify
hlmselr. " From sport to sport she hurried.
Wearying or Saratoga , she betook herself to
Delaware , where she had the pleasure or
seeing sundry men stripped to the waist and
flogged according to limo law In that media-
eval eonJinonwealth. Dy way oC widening
her horizon she took the Keoely cure , after
which , being doubtlC1ls InspirEd by the gold
thus added to her circulation , she Inter- I
viewed John Jacob Astor on the rcsponslblll-
tle3 of wealth and the duties or mlliloialres.
Nor In pursuit or these purely Intellectual
experIences did the thoughtful Miss DIy over-
look mho physical training life. tor she took
a brief course 01 tralnlrt 6 , under the athlete
lIIuldoon and tried n. boxing bout with the
eminent Mr. James J. Corbett.o
Miss ] Merrllles , we regret to say , was , n
less serious exemplar oC the refining force
oC woman In journalism than her colleague
When Miss lily took the ICeely , cure Miss
IIIcrrllleB first had n. real good cry , and then
went to NlIOla Tesla , who allowed 1 1,000,000
volts at electricity to traverse her body without -
out Injury to her or reported disaster to the
' 'sdat ' the
tlynamo. Though she dldn'tls at'J tor
height of having a mill with Corbett she did
put on IItr. Dowie's hullet-proor coat and al-
low herself to bo shot at divers tlanml In the
Interest or science std journalism. Dnt
though her exploits were neither aB numerous -
ous nor as brllilanl as those ot Miss DIy wo
think her culminating effort for time refinement -
ment or journalism Is or enough \ importance !
to 'redeem her from any charge of having
been commonplace , Wo recount It In the
words or her enthusiastic celebrantj the
maker of thin almanac ;
Meg Merrllies spent a week with engine
company No. 17 In their quarters at 01' l.ud-
low street , dressed In boy's clothes fob con-
venlence , with rubber boots and rubber coat.
She lived the Hce ot one or the fire laddies ,
attending regularly to her duties , jumping
from sleep at the alarm , sliding hair awake
down the pole , swinging on the engine as It left
the house , dashing Into smoke and lire , and In
every way sharing In the hardships , the
dangers , and the glory , She drove engine
horlos'back from fir.B , carled a choking baby
through dense smoke to a place of safety
at time risk at her own life and wound up
time week of remarkable activity by helping
her associates fight the big lire at Broadway
and Leonard street , that threatened the en-
lire dry goods district of New York City
It Is with mingled pleasure and regret that
the Times calls general attention to the
achievements ot these young ladles In shel\- \
'
ding ; sweetness and light over what 'Is nt
best a rude and on arduous calling , It Is
always n joy to direct attention to true and
modest merit , to bring shrinking and retiring
genius out where the world may admire It
and give it time rewards deserved Yet
poignant sorrow mingles with aUf joy , because .
cause we fear that Chlcsgo Is hopelessly outdone .
done by New York There are many young
ladles employed upon the press In thIs city ,
yet wo doubt whether any would or ought to
take the ICeely cure. We should hate to ask
even the most intellectual ot them to go
against Cor ell tor tour rounds We even
suspect that It would be difficult to fines many
willing to put on boys' clothes and I\\'e \ , a
week with any engine company , even tt the
question or sliding down the polo were hill
In abe'ance.
NJV Si'laNU b1'UI' YS.
Sumo Inexpensive Novelties for tlaB Conning
. tiensnnup " ' ' \ ' - " II , I.
The first"fact " that IItrlleSHl spring shop-
per Is the cheapness of ' the new goolls.
PrIces prevailing the two past seasons have
startled time economical s6' that one feels a
sense cjt relaxation . from 'str4hir In seeing 76
I cents , $1 and $1.50 marked on the novelties.
That they are far and awe 11fettler than expected -
pected Is another cause tor ! iralltude.
Crepon Is more than ever the vogue. Its
coruscated surface has become more rugged
than before , but Its hotly f Is measurably
lighter. Its width Is the ' = same , and Its
price appreciably lower For spring evening
wear It will supply every need , making the
freshest or dancing gowns.E ,
Cheviot , the Scotchest IIrlthe Scotch stuffs ,
Is the smart thing for stregt wear. It can
be made up with Puritan primness or gar-
nished with whatever shade , or velvet and
coarse lace Is most efl'ectlye. Drown anti
green are the favored 'tltad rs ; a hunter's
green , and a brown that Is decIdedly OP.-
posed to Havana , few tones or yellow admitted -
mitted , the under weave showing In black ,
red 01" green.
The quality or mixed goods that came In
as the leaves / went out Is not good form
any longer. ItVa3 so quickly vulgarized
hy inflation that tits smart toll abandoned
It , for imitation Is the beto nolI" of the
exclusively Inclined. Consequently , to be In
time upper ten or fashion ono's tailor gown ,
or rather stuff , must ha of folltl weave ;
very heavy looking , large meshes : and , It
possible , an aggressive corded diagonal ! stripe
on Its surCace. Before Christmas the prIce
ranged from $1.75 to $3 for such a piece of
goods ; now one may make a selection lit
$1.25 , and this at the best fhops. It Is
rorty-elght Inches wide , bringing the entire
cost or a gown to less than $10 A pleasantly
serious downfall when compared with pre-
holiday times.
Canvas cloth Is seen on few counters Its
little spurt or last autumn was not sufficiently -
ciently encouraging for It to bloom luxuriously -
ollsly again , although the shopleeprs predict
for It more of n vogue In time later heated
season.
The hearts or the 0ld-faahlon2d will b3 i
elated over the recrudescence-one must be
ICIl'llrJeslJue In these dayt-ot silk mohair.
It Is a stuff for whose return our grandmothers
mothers have yearned ; "nothing hike ! It for
shedding the dust , my dears , " they have repeated -
peated us each successive year unrolled Ita
fashions minus the beloved material. At
length It Is here ( , and It Is fashionable , and
It Is among the list of timings , : ; Probable that I
many an old cedar chest will disclose Its
treasure In the way of mQhalr laid In tissue
paper and lavender that was relegated to the
garret as time "child or a day that : Is done "
It was the same when IrlEh bombl1zlne came
to the fore again some seasons ago.
AntI the grandmothers are right. There
19 no material equal to slll mohair for shop-
ping or traveling ; Il Is a bit expensive , but
earns Its prlcl by years oC good service
For time flimsier , more summer materials
this embroidered l'reneh batiste Is already
swinging its airy breadths In time shop win-
dows. It comes In every dye , In suit lengths ,
anti by the ) 'ard , A small earnest oC its
coming ; popularity has been seen by its frequent -
quenl use In trimming other gowns. But
now time summer maiden , to be fashionable
will wear It after every style. Severe and
simple with leather' hell , for the breakfast
table and time early morning , or embroidered
and festooned with fluttering plaid rlbbons-
for ono must bo a follower ot Rob Roy In their
choice or ribbons tblll spring-for the giddier
hours > . Datlsto rewards the buyer ot It also
with excellent service , for It launders daintily
and looks ever frelh . '
When the shopper reaches the silk counter
-and silk Is to bo quite tashlonable when the
balmy days come-the first thing " she will
be assured 11 thai unless IIbl : owns n. bodice
or gown or taffeta ) JUne > she may ae-
'
knowledge herself unwrllf 'n din ' the book at
good dyle. 1/ '
Taffeta plisse Is buill 'fbt 1 strips or very
much crinkled taffeta sll ) ( , 'w\\h \ \ entredeux ot
satin stripes holding thei gathered edges
The variety comes In the satin being In a
contrasting color to time , ellk : Old rasa or
yellow with black bands black silk with
vollet , crimson or iliac bandsf are among the
colors It resembles line I needlework or
gathered purrs rolled and whipped Into bands
er Inserting. As a stuff , it will carry out
the I'rench style of waists pt. are so popu-
lar with crepon skirts 'I ) e woven fullness
Is admirably adapted for , 'make ; . up with a
simple gathering banI ! at the waist and
throat It Is the usual silk \ , vjidth , and brings
$1.65 a 'ard. Light wpl&hl satins are
brought out with copsplcuoua deslgns-n.lI
In black , and that ever' dainty , exquisite
fabric sllle grenadine-Is to bo one or the
smart things to wear. The designs In black I
are especially artistic , and many pieces are
figured with colored fIo\\'ers. These are to bl
extensively worn for visiting gowns , over
colored silks , and trImmed In satin or velvet
ribbons 'to match. . , " "
Plaid and striped velvet was not Imported
this sprlug Its success was somewhat equivocal -
ocal , though Felix ! and Paquin did stamp It
with their approbation. Moire seems to have :
also been relegated to the past , leaving '
satin , plait or figured as cock or the walk ,
for ornamental purposes.
In the evening silks ; the quaintest designs
are shown some of the best , proudly be It ,
said , coming from American looms , Dresden !
patterns arc favorites , and the Louis XllI.
'
wallpaper idea or' 'Uny blossoms Inclosed
withIn solid bands or old blue or du Barry
pllll . makes n dalnllly artistic dinner gown.
These are selling for $1.5 a yard , as the
Persian palm leaf patterns In faded eastern
colors arc also doing
For trimming purposes or perishable danc-
Ing gowns the new chiffon bears sllle nose-
gays on Its ahlmmery surface 01' Ivy leas ,
01' single moss beads , nil beautiful , but not
to be glanced at by the economic young
woman. ADELE ALI.ISTEH ,
TIIB WIII1I IIO3TELRV.
The President nnll Ills WHo Today , 1i"I' :
Iloao In Splendid Stylr.
WASHINGTON , Feb. 3-Speclal-When ( )
the young IrIsh architect , James lIoban , designed -
signed , In 1792 , "a mansion for the president
or the United Slates , after the Dublin palace .
ace , " built by the duke of Lelnster , the
housekeeping for presldenls was quite sm- :
pie.
pie.Tho
The fair and stately mistresses , beginning
with \frs. \ Abigail Adams , ordered dinners
and suppers with all the dignity or their positions -
tions , serve ) by maid and men servants , "ac-
cording to need , " but , with her homo In a
wilderness , the weekly washing dried In the
east room , there , was little formality In house-
hold managemen
The gilts , graces and successes or "beauU-
tul Dolly Madison" while In the white house
have gone down Into history Her cool ,
maids and "Ole Black Joe , " who provided for
his "han . sum mlstroJs" all tha 10uthern tlell- I I
caches , were famed for service , Fabulous '
sums were paid for produce , aril marlet day
was the event or time weee ] , when heavy
coaches jolted , frpm Alexandria to the capi-
to ] , when " limo gentry came to meet the
foreign ships and add , to their stores precious
jars , India fruits and old England's choicest
treasures ,
Lafayette , In' IHj2i ! 'p'ronounced : : ' : tile while
house "an American home at eminent social
and Intellectual elegance ] . "
'rhu lovely Emily Donalson , " hostess at the
Jackson reign , 'cnl ' rt' lnell royally , olllcially
and socially. The : four or five following rres-
Idents 11Ispensed generous hospitality. lIfr.
Buchanan's chief carne from Baltimore , and
Miss Harriet Lane revived the splendor and
fashion of courtly serylce. 'I'helr entertainments .
ments were elegant and ' , expenses enormous.
President Tyler hived simply ! , but his juill's '
In summer and egg nags In winter used n
good share of his salary. Mr. Pierce was
popular , dining everybojy : "Grantlathel'
Harrison" went 10 market and needed 110
steward
101JtS. I.INCOI.N'S I'fJI1I'LEXITIES.
To no bluer resident ; , to no other mistress
ot "Tllo Peoplo'll House , " coulll come the pe-
cullar perplexities and burdens or houle- ]
keeping as to our beloved Abraham Lincoln
Front attic to cellar , through the grounds ,
time corrIdors , places public or private was
the confusion at war Little Tad , with his
democratic visitors at the area steps ; and , day
and night the tramp of soldiers ; omcera and
messengers everywherB. To Mrs Lincoln It
was new , contused and untried , To Mr. 1.ln-
colli months anti years were wholly self ( . forgetful -
getrul , IntlllTerent to the expenses und waste ,
comfort 01" discomfort. Twenty thousand tlol-
lars were spent during his first term. Sliver ,
ornaments and valuable furniture were stolen ,
costly hangings cut to pieces
The tamlly at Andrew JOhnson , with ceaseless -
less pains and patience , renovated the houso.
Their state dinners were costly and olllcial
duties exact.
With the Grants came merry children , ltosta
or jolly friends amid great social freedom .
Their steward , "Melah , " was beloved of diplo-
mat-a ! , princes and ofllcera who dined at the
white house
One hundred and thirty-five thousand dollars .
lars was used In Johnson'lI lime ; the same In
arant's first tell.ni ; the IItcnd , $111,1,01,10 ; $11,1,001,1
was used on time new green houses
Great Improvements were made during lIfrs.
Hayell' reign The jeweled screen In the ves-
tlhule cost $3,381,1. Congress gave Mr. Clere-
land $14,000 ; Mr , Harrison , $96,01,10. I'resident
Arlhur was thp , "prlnco at dinner givers ; .
Ills IIqurrs were his greatest expense. Time
steward tells PW that President lIana spout
greater sums on beautiful entertainments and
docoratlons than any other president , except
MI' Arthur. .
UNCLE S.\\I'S : OBLIGATIONS
Tile white house Is often called a "big hotel ,
and the presltlent Its landlord It Is housekeeping .
keeping on a largo scale-the expenses divided .
vided between Uncle Sam and his esrvanls !
The "executive mansion" Is official and prI-
vata home or tile president and his family ;
and one can hardly credit the small , unlnter-
eating routine or dally work within Its stalls ,
which Is frantically sought ! after and rushed
Into print The house has cost over $2,001,1-
01,10 , anti $125,001,1 each 'car Is for the pre31-
tlent's salary and expenses Sliver , china ,
glassware , linen for table and bed roans and
necessary furniture belong to Uncle Sam.
All personal service Is paid for as by any
gentleman In his own house. Government
launders the house linen and attends to limo
house : cleaning ; hut at the beginning or n new
administration old servants arc retained or
dismissed , as the mistress sees fit.
Time steward Is directly responsible for all
valuables lie gives n. bond or $21,1,1,11,11,1 , and
receh'ell a salary of 1,80G. . lIe Is appointed
hy time pre ldent , and all United States prop-
erty put Into his chnrge. The solid sliver
service or the Monro , the gold spoons and
forks of the Van Durens , pieces or time Lln-
coin china parts or the decorative service
made for Mrs. Hayes are still In use . and
stand on the mahogany buffet In the lrlvate
dining roolU Quaint urns , pitchers claret
jugs , and relics of value grace the IJllJret.
Time sliver Is marled "president's house , " the
linen embroidered "U. S. " The steward relieves -
Heves mho mistress or all care , has IJharKe or
the under servants , who attend to time entire
housework ( .
1I1S. HAYES THOUGHT IT MAGICAL .
The first time that wo called upon Mrs.
Hayes , informally , some ono asked : "Anti
how ( goes your new housekeepIng , Mrs
Hayes ? " '
Tier handsome eyes twinkled as she replied
merrily ; "I like It. Everything In this house
moves as sr by magIc. Everybody Is so good
and does so much for us. " , The state dinners
are given at limo presIdent's expense. He
gives to the steward a sum at money the expenditure -
pentlilure or which Is supposed to bo In proportion -
portion to the ollleial rank and grandeur DC
the Invited guests ,
Government turnlshes to cabinet officers
horses , carriages anti coachmen , but the pres-
Ident's are personal property. '
The flowers at the white house are Its prldo
anti glory . There Is no room to tell at the
wonderful decorations , tliq roses , vIolets , pan-
sies and orchids , each the favorite 01 ILK beautiful .
tltul mistress ; nor of the pretty nooks and ,
corners arranged from one administration to
another by time wife and mother for the ! comfort -
fort and pleasure oC her Iltllo ones , liar husband -
band and many guests.
The old house Is sacred for Its century 01
associations : and , Inside Its busy walls very
like to happy American homes , where time
dignity at the high position Is blessed with
love and , content. Not ruled by kings , nor
queens , but by n man chosen by "tho people "
MAHahltE'r SPlmClm.
PenNnine . lilllrll.
mael sllle Irish - gulpuro will bo used with a
lavIsh hand
There are nearly 2,000 women practicing
medicine In time United Statcs.
Boston's woman'R clubhoulle Is an assured
though not yet an accomplished fact
Miss Frances Wlllartl III time third woman
who bas the right to ilIA title or doctor of
laws Maria Mitchell , the astronomer , and
Amelia B. Edwards , the Egyptologist , are
the othora.
The favorite bodice for wear with all but
tallor-matlo gowns Is round with n drooping f
blouse ] front.
The next bIennial meeting of the General
Federation Women's Clubs will bo held 10
Louisville In )896.
Hob Roy hats , the Scotch "bonnet , " are
enjoying a revIval and very becomingly worn
by women with piquant faces.
The now moire sash ribbons come In all
colors daintily figured In Dresden patterns ,
or with vines of delicate flowers through the
center. '
New bodices continue to reach the waist
only , and most elaborate bell-atlornlngs are
the natural outcome of these shortened cor- .
snges.
Shot and fiowered / satin ribbons arc largely
used for rosettes , frills , streamers , sashes ,
and bretelles on pretty ) gowns for deml-drcslI
wear :
\Irs. ! C. D. Craig and Mrs. N. M. Dell ot
Denver , Cola „ having been drawn 011 a
jury , are willing to do their duty ns 'jurors ' ,
citlzobs and taxpayers ,
In China there Is a Heavenly Foot society ,
made UI' or young men who are umler avow
vow never to marry a woman whose feet are
smaller limn nature Intended.
Many of the new jaunty street
jackets and jacket bodices on
tailor-gowns that are to tale the place or
the three.quarter coats are finished . ' , with
vests that button visibly from neck 'to lower
edge ,
Mrs. Harriett Duterto , n colored woman , III
ana of time most successful undertakers In
Philadelphia. She has carried on the busi-
ness for almost fifteen years Mrs. Duterto
Is n. sister at William Still of undergrounll
railway fame . ,
Darnard , as shown hy time last ropbrt of
time academia committee , has In Its gradu-
ate department ellhteen : students with de-
'rees ! from Bryn Mawr , Vassar , Wellesley ,
Smith , Cornell , Michigan and St. Lawrence .
'fo these students are open at Columbia
ninety-two courses
Mortuary tables show that the average
duration of time life or women In European
countries Is sOlllewhat less than that of
man. Notwithstanding this fact , of' time list
or centenarians collected hy the British association -
elation 11 fraction over two . lhlyds were
women.
Foliage without flowers , arranged nlrhrlt
"piquets , " will he much worn , and also largo :
silken IlOones In deep rich shades Corrnerl In
clusters or five or six at time hack or large
hat , . Lilac leaves In the metallic colors of . '
steel and copper and bronze are another novel
idea
Idea.Miss
Miss Cora Dow or Cincinnati ! Is time owner
oC three drug stores In auccesslul operation
In that city She Is a graduate 01 time Pimar-
macoutlcul department , 01 the Clnelnnntl
university She employs six regular ! plmarma- .
elate and , four assistants , visits each ! store
every day and supervises every detail ,
Before leaving England for Cape Martin
reeently tire Ituipress ugcnlo I was prosou't
at n requiem sen'lco on time anniversary of
the death vf her hushallll , Napoleon III
Time compress , n.tteJidel , by for faithful
friends , : Mme I.e Breton nn,1 , M. l'lotrl ,
walked from her reshleneu to time IIIIl1ol'Iat
mausoleum and after n service In time church
spent sand time at lima crypt , where rests
the sarcophagus or time late emperor
-
.
'QuakeN ' :
OATS
Quaker Oats Goes All Over the World
N. Served for Three Hundred and Sixty Million breakt t
\1' ' fasts in 1894. Why ?
Sold only in 2 lb. Packages
. " " . , . . . . . . ,
'h.
< ' =
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