: : i- . - - - - . - - - - _ _ - , I . . : 1 b TIlE OlLAJLDAILY : BEE : BUNDA . Y , DEOEMBflB . :30 : , 1894. 11 1 ' " . ' 1 W01TIan'S D01TIail1.1 . curmlCT CiTUmS ! : Stnnnln ! Stflf4 the TRlorlrn : IRklnl for ' Cotdct WeRther , Wenr Uurlnl thn Cnhlclt She was walking down PIfty.eventh street , " New York , lke lamlet In his flowering hour , "the observe of nil observers. Slim 08 a young reed , In her tght-ftlng , . Mverely plain tailor gown , she yet seemed the Very mol ot correct form ; and as she I , tripped by beautifully unconscious of her nIl- miring audience ant sweetening the wintry % aIr wIth I huge breast knot of violets , an .eager youn woman In her wake took In the glass or fashion. Her costume was or heavy chinchilla wool , marked like a hlrd's egg with distant black I and white speckles. The smarty flared skirt , val cut Just long enough to be beconilng to her little walking booted feet , ant was : Just short enough to escalle the ground aLt orounu. The Jacket j , a sort of young Newmarket , came down hal way between the waist alt knees ; and tC flatten them , on the shoulder after the present approved pattern , the tOis of the big 11101 sleeves were laid each In I heavy triple hex Illalt. From one hailt tangled a muff of black lynx , as largo al n modest beer ! eg , The other slender , white kidded member caressCI by moments a hugo black beast that served ; . ' . I . . jr ( j4 ' ' .1 I . 44'/ 4i , i - , .f .fT T . : . . . ; ' 4 _ ( 1 , eL' 6' - " " /Oc'Ct. OF ROuGh CLOTH. DS a throat lumer , or again tilted the I skirt to show n rich white slt lhiiing . and which , hy the way. Is a late fad In skirtdoin. , A turban of hack lynx , that came , Vei down on the forehead and hid the tins of the cars , formed the head covering. I was trlmmCl only with a stf paint brush aigrette that stood straight up In front. Altogether , the dainty wInter's mornIng vision had reached a point of modish excel- hence that even the mot Ironclad superlcrlty ' might envy : but the question that distracted the wO lan bh1nd I her was not "How does " "Is she cold ? " And she do I all ? but herein , considering the freezing moment , lies V material for serious discourse. FOR REAL PROTECTION. One of the winter tricks to make the al- Wa8 popular taior gown comfortnblo on bit- tar days Is to Interline the jacket throughout with chamois - , Again , where this cosy protection Is only desire 01 occasions an entire snugly-fitting jacket of ehamols will be worn under the oul'lde one Sometimes , over the coat , a , short , full fur cape will bo pressed Into serv- ' - Ice : but the very un-to-date tailor Ilrl prefers & the leather intrhintng . with I muff and tippet - pet by way of atlltonat wrapilings. In this way the very fiercest winds can be braved and the unity or the tailor gown preserved. In lieu of flapping petticoats , cloth leggings and chamois lined riding breeches are some- times worn tinder the flared outside skirt. I Is too late of course to expect anything new In the way of winter dress materials but to many , the stuffs that distinguish /omo of the stunning gowns that now dot the streets will bo entirely unfamIliar. The Englsh blanket serges , diagonals and smooth faced cloths long known , are still used ' Other and more elegant textures for plain gowns are brown and mouse colored corduroy - \ duroy , boucle cloth which Is covered with . curly rings of hair , and crepons grained ant , 'r' figured , r fgured " The rougher the crepon thin moro dlstn- : - gulshcd It Is consldercd , but along wIth other coarse surfaced and hairy wools , will be Been sometimes an effective gown 11 shinIng - Ing black mohair sergo. I 'fho tailor-made costume mayor may nol bo trlmmet , Iralts put on In stilt military fashion can bo coiled Into stylish account and for bedecldng as wel aK useful pur- poses , great buttons of tortoise shell , enamel , , or hand-painted metal can bo used. Aaln , on a gown of perhaps green boucle cloth perhaps little animal heads lay take the Illaco of buttons for the jacket : anti over these wi bo looped frogs of heavy silk or Persian sewed round to simulate cord. VEnELY PI.AIN The most fetching street costume ot the : monient , however , has only 1 guy lining by , Way of ornamentation. : I'or exaiiiph' , a Illaln French waltng suit of blaclt crelln , IS rough as sanllllaper , wi 3 Q . ft U , S lVtcVll/AMfi , / . - LINIDVITII W'IIITE. I - - - - - - - - - reflect 11 entire petunia or magenta under . u rtaCt , A captivating English model a short.b tex cost and land skIrt of liquor brown corduroy bas a lning , Qr bhh qrJlu e silk , a dtcaIe \ iuuse-coiored lQ111 18 made over 3hie. or 1 wore wear : I. desired than this - - - - " fashlonblo but ea1hy damaged foundation btue will afford , the lining may be 01 cornflower blue.To initiated eyethearer of time darling rig may seem a sombre creature Dut that proper hlack brown or blue gown hal chame- leon posslbltes , , A moment before a lle- , mute leer or Inky crow maybe , let there come a Rust 01 wind to rattle frock tais antI jacket ends and 101 ! the tailor girl Is Jclet Into I Ilaradiso bird of the very highest order A good model for these street skirts Is the one that has I front and two slte ( gores , unit from three to seven godet visits at the back Theo open and shut with m.'ement hike a fan . amt from llem to belt the entire skirt Is stiffened with haircloth , , Nowhere simouiil It touch the ground , anlt II so desired - sired I wire braid under the Inside foot facing will Increase the Itand-of effect at the bottom . But Instealt of any of the brilliant flower tmflrA-nfmn r , , Il mere tmol to catch the 11- wary : -o'1 'l : - girl of brains anti shim nurse chooses Instead a 01,1 , black gros grain , or neat , easiy cleaned alpaca , as a lining for her street dress skirt. lning gmTI JAnIER , SI'V : 11'II : - - : 1'\lIS. how Cay lrcnch l'cnpln . Celebrate the Jour 110 m I.nn. The Parisian New Year has none ot the characteristics that mark Its other holidays. I Is the ilny 01 the year , al its French " lIe i'amm " lnllieS' and where name , "Jour lan , Inples ; whee time other fete3 may be celebrated ! y func- tons , New Year Is n time for nit classes , for rich and poor , high ant low , Ulike. The new leaf of good resolve of all the world Is turned over and the day Is marked by a childishness nnlt dllllomac thaI seems sttalgely commlnglell. Family feuds arc forgotten anti visiting carts put UII In little unseahed envelopes of the sale size Ire sent to evl tIme most Indifferent acquaintances. 'Vito concierge , II whose black books one concerge has perhalls been written for n period . Is sortett with a donceur. Even the washer- womnn mist be remembered ; ( ( mid . I so in- chimed , you can with perfecl etiquette add another to the heal of splenllhl bouquets that covered with horn of white pal'er ' uml hlnnchlsserlo tied with. sashes window of satn . ribbon , lie In her Good luck Is supposed to follow every penny given to the blls ! : that swarm the stl eets anti to the stranger eye the sides seem fairly to rain sugar plums. And such sugar pluls ! Oue1ma travel In many hands and see many things , but no- where cal sugar thUms be found In such eye and Palate delighting shalles as In Purls. Indeetl. bon lions may be saId with truth to rule the roost on the French New Year. All always In high favor with the raY trlle.lo\'lng ParisIans , they form on that day time staple medium of scial Intercour.e , 'rho etrenne time New Yenr's gift of the morning . Is always accomlanled by n box of candles tell elegantly wih rIbbon : and along with the funny perfunctory : Itle Idss 01 each check , more oren than not , even men relatives and friends exchange satin bags of chocolate or caramels. The diamond necklace thaI roes perhaps to the martlulse Is smothered la slgal'et rose leaves and violets Tile jewel box cf the actress Is heaped high with tinted ahnonds. And he the gifts of time hourgolse. the shop- keepers , the glove sewer and he 1 fewer mnler what they may ; , they arc Invariably sweetened In some elegant and dainty fashion with boo bons. nut to ace tIme New Year candies In their most characteristic Inrlsl:1 exc lencE It Is necessary on that day to make a visit to the bouleyards. Here , from the Place lIe \Opera to lime I St. Denis Gale , stretch great glittering hop windows blooming with sweets In ovey &n- cclvable color and shape. There arc monkeys and babboms : In choco- late , cats , dogs , pigs and 1'1 IllJr In tinted cream : sugar lies , roses and orchids : even cabbages , carrots , turnips , onions and asparagus , incredibly natural , and nil of which , When their crIsp outer crusts are bitten intd , will send down the elch.nted throat delicious streams of cordial. At the outer edge of tIme pavement , all along each side of the boulevard , there will bo little booths hurriedly knocked up to catch the holiday buyers , and made gay with colored calico . These reproduce lu humblcr I materials , for a more modest trade the ' treasures of the shop window The grand lady dolls and plnchlnelesPunch and Judys -tho satin and paper onbonleres , and all the hundred and one other charming trifles that travel under tIme head of "articles do Paris " and thnt have done so much toward building up the fame of that city TIme best time to "do" tIme boulevards on New Year's day or any other for that mat- ter Is In the afternoon. Then time animate , as well IS the InanI- mate show lay be secn : and of the two the latter Is by tar the more Interestng , The morning has been entirely given up to on Interchange of presents and kisses anll perhaps a family visit or so , but Immediately after 2 o'cloclt , tIme true Parisian begins to "tInner" the boulevards Here will be a tat old gentleman with his fatter wife , buy- lug pink sugar candles wIth chocolate wicks. A Latin quarter student In 1 "beret , " I sort of Tar O'Shanter call , comes next ; and fur- tImer on perhaps , will bo two 01 len , decorated - rated , patent leathered , :11 beaver hatted , who wilt boldly meet with aim embrace on each cheek , before begInnIng the New Year .nlnll.nl I I , n Ci time ; " door of a great shop some hal dozen ladles with very red faces and white cotton CpS are shown ont with ceremony , They are a deputation of fish women train the Holes marlet. And presently laden with boquets they will be rolling In carriages toward the lysee palace , going curiously enough to pay , wIth diplomats and hllh dignitaries , their respects to time presimlent . , All Is gayety. Everybody laughs , and everybody Is politely "monsleured" and "muadamned. " Priest and sisters of chariy with schools ot boys amid girls In tow to see time sights of the shop windows , jostle people ' of all sorts and degrees ot le , I Is only I when time long stretch of dusky boulevarlls begin - gin to break Into gas jets and illuminated signs that time crowds go home to the family dlnlor that Is also a prominent feature of the Paris New Year , Imlrolltu Conkll ! Frol nohelian haunts unappetizing echoes have been caught of restaurant guests cookIng - lug their own suppers-now , behold this strange , now fashion Is being rapidly adopted by New Yorl's exclusively fashlonnble set What the one class do for economy or 'ronsltent unconventonalty , time other of- feels for fun or mimicry of artistIc life. Time conditions of the cookery may jump from a gas steve to a silver chafing dish , but time elements remain the mamne . 'rhere Is Ilogether an atmosphere of 101- \'Ivlalty amid good ullierstanding that at- tachel Ise'f ' to this mode of operation to which the sons or the brush and Pencil were born , I Is no uncommon sight at I Twelfth street Ilension to see Iehanl Harding Davis 1)'lng about with a beefsteak Ilpalell on 81 Iron fork about to he Iommltell to n broier , his Mess COlt nlaty folded on u chair near by , F . S. Church , the artist , at the same limos , mixing saiaml lime huge whie bowl , and a score or other wel known young men discussing , cussing inside Intormaton nn currrnt ques- tons while stewing O'ftor or 1pparlng the lobster a la Nowblrg , The goad natured ialan chief fnding Ingrpllelts an.1 . utensils . priding hllEel all the while on time fact that the most talked ot men of the hour use his kitchen to obtain thllr nightly sustenance A feW weeks ago It a cafe where It takes more thal a re llctalJ Income to dine , a young society lan , who itrides himself upon Lila euleurean fastidiousness. objpcted to the malier II which his oyster's ' wire prelared ! 1 "l.'elch me a chafng dbii . " II Bald , to the , Istonlshell waler , "and I'l show you what oyster to the taste mire like. " Time dish was brought , and sOle few friends strolled over to SN the thing well 110nr. Adlirably the dl'h and the with executed was ' , men ate wih the gusto that follows ICt.VI ) ' . The next evening the 'oung lan brought a friend or tIme other sex Into the restaurant , and limo same muthod was adopted , only she became elef uf f the occasion . Now that the Idea hu caught on , \ 18 tie unusual sight after time theater to find many quiet little groups a\'ounll restaurant thles occupied by chfng dish and ballnar , Tile ' cooks whIle the " young wontu or chaperone , whie men either help or look on. Walters who are liberally tipped stand about mind seem rather to enjoy the no'oty ; than disapprove of II. Organized society has heretofore looked disapprovingly upon the habits of those known as conventional anarchists ; but , 10. a change has taken place now the cult of , the Bohemians has become the cult of the social Uraim m ins , lA'TlU UUIUISCOI'IS , : lndlsholcn lag OceplyEmigagcil limO IRr8 In Mllt- NEW YOlt , lec , 29.-Special.-Astrology ( ) II the tomlnant occult attraction In London at time majority of West Enlt "At 10mes , " No hostesl Is considered 1 success at such unless she provides an astrologer as one of the attractions . atractons. tn New York the art Is practiced sub rosa , antI , although hosts of society women de\'ote much precious Unto to the study of their fate as revealed by sun , moon amt I stars , \ery little Is sall about I to the out- sldo world Intimate friends form a coterie which melts once I week , possibly more frequently . to listen to lectures on astrology and Incidentally-so they say-havo their fortunes revealed In the heavens "On time sllnls just from Mama And read their fate throuh the singing stars , " Wlh many ladles It Is simply n pastime : with others I might he called a maier of business : social life , phianthropies amid dress even being regulated for them by messages from the spheres To alcml an astrological iccture or seance , Is at least to Pass on entertaining hour , II one Filth I avenue residence , Iy lady's ! boudoir luxurious anti swcet with ! urnllg incense , which lends all Oriental touch to the occasion , Is oren the ren.lez\ous . of hal a Ilozrn frlells for whom ever'thlng caba- lstc has 1 charm The hlHh priestess Is a woman who 11\ldps her time between Boston and New York amid so much are her services In demand for lect ( tres . castng horoscolles and natvites that I Is e'tremely dllcult to see her unless an allpolntment Is malle In advance She has Ilr regular "clents , " or patrons In New \'orlc , and , alhough willing to foretell $ worth of fate In the stars , so to speal\ \ , $ ; anti $10 Is her usual clmarge while for very elaborate anti careful ) ' Ilrepared horoscopes - ' ' that scopes which prognosticate everything can possibly happen II a life tIme , $100 Is not an unusual charge. FAS1IIONAHLE D1VOTE1S. FASHONABLE D Mrs Dunlal' 10pltils Is one of the most enthusiastc devotees ot astrology She even once put off n journey because , alter COI- suItIng niamlame she was assurtl that I woul turn out unpleasanty ; a shlpwreclt or ome other little contretemps being indIcated b ) Saturn . which Is a malevolent planet : tIme other e\l Illanets , by the way , arc Mars and Umnus Mrs Wiiam K. Vamlerbl Is devoted to astrononH' with a decided leaning toward nstrology : ' Perhaps , considering the present unpleasantness In her domestc circle , she may ! e depending upon a comlaatol of the Illanets to restore harmony after their pello,1 of hostile Influences ha,1 , passed Mrs. Vanderbilt Is n subcrler to the publications of the Royal Astronomical society and possesses a wonderful collection of telescopes-In fact If horoscopes were only cast with telescopes , she would he quite independent - dependent or a priestess. Perhaps her sus- pense In regard to the futre has already been tion. relieved ! y alt astrological cOlsula- ton.Tho The Marquise Clara J.auza unhesitatnglY To explain maters a little to the uninitiated - ated , astrologers divide the sky Into twelve equal lJrt . called the houses of heaven : each division has Its special influence , as Indicated In the accompanying cut : . 'as. . 13 70 < 0 ! , & . 10. 13' - - - ' 2 $ ' MRS. OGDEN-GOULET'S HOnOSCOPE. confesses to consulting an astrologer before engagIng In any special work-like beginning I new level , for Instance Irs. Ogden Goelet consulted an astrologer once upon ) a time , more for the fun of It per- haps than anything else. Her horoscope was as follows : EXPLAINING THE AnT. In casting a horoscope the astrologer first places the signs of tIme zodiac In their proper locations for the date and hour of birth and then sets the planet In their respective places In the houses. To return now to that Interesting docu- menl , Mrs. Goelet' horoscope. ler birthday was November 8 , 1858. The sign Sagittarius was on the cusp of the first house , and both Mercury and Jupiter were In the ascendant , whlo Venus hod just risen above the eastern horizon. The mon was In the third 11use nnI In Pisces _ Uranus In the fifth house , In _ , , _ , n _ , _ _ _ _ , Taurus ; Saturn In the sixth , also In Taurus : Mars In the ninth In Leo and tIme sun In the eleventh In Scorpio. The ascending sign gives the lady the tail stature ant lIght complexion which Is her style , as well as the courtesy for which she Is noted. She Is rather qulcktempered-so the stars declare Venus , so near time cusp of time ascendant , bestowed 1 great taste for music , The moon In the thlrll house , indicated a fondness for short tours Saturn In the sixth house , Is unfavorable : It warns of sickness to come The sun In time eleventh Inlllcates time pos- session of good and firm friends Other ladies interested In this "science , " suppose we cal I out of deference to the lathes , are Irs. Burke-Hoche , Mrs. Frederick , Vanderbilt , , Miss Annie Cameron , Irs. New- comb eli Mrs. Fernando Yznaga. As 10 the men who consult astrologers , I the facts were known , they are even more devoted to time study of the stars than women , Mr James Waterbury and a hot of others have horoscopes cast at least once a year and usually much oftener , JAY GOULD'S SUPERSTITION. The late : Ir , Jay Goull spent considerable money on this hobby and always con/uled ' an astrologer , a woman , by the way , to whom' alone time he paid $ 50. Mr. George Gould , too , has had his fortune read In the heavens , lie also hall the good luck to be born under the sun , which In the language of the spheres "was In good ' aspect to limo Illanet herschel . " "lie will be quite affable anti klnll , have a good temper and seldom get out of temper : will gpneraly enjoy gooll health , and there Is nt danger but that he wi live to Ill an old man Will be fortunate In marriage " "Iimidly see Ir my business wil succeed this year , and please give me any other 11S- sage from the stars , " Is a frequent request accompanied by the date of birth ( as well as a bill ) sent by lany huslnes men to astrologers - gets , before a lew enterprise Is untlertalten Mr Dppew has often had his horoscope cast alli kindlY gave me the result for use In this article. lie was born at G o'clock on the morning of April 23 , 183t , and at that hour the elgh- teelth degree of time sign ot Taurus was risimmg . wlh the planets mill above the earth , except Saturn , These facts are 8ulllosel\ \ to make Mr. Deimew's horoscope n remarkaly favorable one. Jupiter amid Venus were In oniunctiOfl. time former being In the houEe conluncton or fortune : which II governed by the blgn Gemini This Points to time amasing of a fortune. Mr IppeIs supposed to owe his success a an orator ta the Jlanet Mercury-tho Planet , ct wit , genius and intellectual superiority , The sun above the imorizon on the day of his nativity makes him anxious for 111aco and Power , but the e\1 planet Saturn repeats its warning that this Coa never be , and : Ir. Delew roust content - tent himsel without public 0111cc. 'hls op- position of Saturn II the only cloud over an otherwise brilliant horoscope , . . - - - - 1 I. . " < m" , Doucet of l'arll has capped the clmax of exquisite creatons In emlnlne toleta In , cown that nrrlve'J the orfler.l day o. ' 1. UretRgne for Miss De Wutt . , ItC , wear In the ltrawlng rom scene of "Th Jdmosqueraders. " Time rose Is the text , so to , Ik. ot the dress The full flaring skirt , lD sweeping length Is of pale yellow shltrerlng satin embroltered to the knee wih'IO trellis of roses In lovely pink and , bhth rose , , tInts , . This embroidery Is done by hand 11 relief , time rose Petals being actual , leaves of silk wrought upon the satin In such wise DS to make them stand out quIte , , as , .rat roses would clambering upon a lattice. Above the trellis the skirt I spangled to the waist wIth minute gold lntihiettcs . The bodice represents a cluster of Pink roses ted with a sash There Is It 10unltn- lon body or yellow silk amt chilon , anti across the front arc set three full blown , long-stemmell roses time stems of which ore thrust under a girdle ot Pale lea-green - vet . which forms all the lower Portion of tIme bodice ; this Is slghl , wrinkled instead of being perfectly smooth ; the stem fall be- low limo girdle Ilter the skIrt carrying out the quaint conceit that the bodice Is 1 boquet. Onl large rose Is also fet on each short puff sleeve A new Worth Mess that MIss ne Wole wears In the first net at the hunt bal Is also a novelty , The skirt Is of palest lllvery gray satin , opening at time left side to the waist over I petticoat panel of pale green velvet embrohlere ! an over In festoons of silver : the satIn < hnr,1pr',1 where It fals npart' ; over t tn ! -ieen- with , a leaf I pattern Into wllllh time stalin Is actually shaped , each leaf richly embrollered by hanll In rilver. Bodlco very low back anti front , of whlo chllon above n deep celnture of darkest green satin : shouhler Imots of the sale above short lrld sleeves of lighter green velvet , strapped with slver , - 1'IISI101' M.tlIItS. 1-"AthIIU " 'rIACO " 'o'mien Are Uevntec4 to Ito ! , , In S Ii . ml' , English women are teaching American wcmen sOle important facts about fetgear We know today that a touch of patent leather removes the shoe from street use , except In the case of walling to ali trom afternoon teas or lunelmeomi . That only seal or calfskin Suits the I'avments , that low shoes are to be reserved for summer wear , that spats are not good form , except for men , all that laced shoes are time smart thIng for limo forenoon We have also learned to say "bootmuaker , " Instead ot "shocman , " ali to place our boots careful ! away on "trees" II a row , Insteat of hanging them In the compartments of a ' litton shoe ! ag. But when It comes to dressing the feet fcr the house commend me to French art Possl- lily there Is no clique ot fashlonablo women In the Unied States who acknowledge thIs as universally as do the toclal leaders of San Fra nclsco. There exists In one of the narrow avenues In Paris a bootmalter who asserts that his San Fr.mcsco trade would reap him II respectable Income I he hall no other cuslomer3. Ito can exhibit on Inc shelvcs ot his little shop the woeden lasts of every society woman of the Gate City . with but very . few exceptions. ' Buylu French bouse shoes Is n' monomania with these westerners and the stranger In- vltcd Into theIr hospitable homes aclowl- edges that the hostesses' feet arc indisputably the most Iracefuly sheet on the cnntnent , For Instance , no San Francisco woman-I mean among the set particular In this score wes kid , either glace or' suPdo , Indoors. Back satu Is the vogue. As soon as she en- ters her home , walking or driving shoes are taken oft and her feet slipped Into dainty . shapely hlack ' satin boots Iined with heavy whie satin and fastened , Hth' many small saln " I polished buttons. I Is only on very great occasions that the satin boot gIves place tC the satin slipper. " TIe women have learned "the French woman's knowledge of art and low that un- less one possesses an exceptionally well turned ankle , shippsrs emphasize the defects that slppers boots conceal None of1'0 \ dressiness at- ticlled to ! IIPerS Is lost1 , , Jot the hong .o vamped , . hlg I-heele. perfectly-fitting black satin boot gives distinctIon \0 \ the plainest house gown. Again there Is no style of shoe that as seemingly diminIshes sIze. The bulkiness of leather , the evIdences of heavy sttching that arc Inescapable even In the boat turned kid shoe , are done away with. Tine smooth sur- face bears padding on the Instep anti can be shaped upward Into an incredible arch under- neath. One must pay $15 i to $20 for these luxuries , and bo confronted with the fact that one wears a No 3t Instead of a No 4 , but these trivIal grievances are quite overbalanced ! by the other qualities of comfort elegance and good taste , for , to quote an easter " -n-jnn whn ho" ind vl.llr Calfornia , "My friend " wore a"rib : t wlmen "lt -'v- s clothed in l black satin It resembled a delicate comma made with I camel hair brush In India Ink. " - - - - MUSIC JIIE , Itches and Ucnnx Who Canter Around time ' ) ' 10 hark tUI ! The most exclusive and swagger or/anlza- lion In New York Is the riding club Nol to ton belong to It argues you outsldo the pale of that charmed circle described by the immortal - mortal " 400 " No lady may belong , but If she Is lucky encugh to be the sister or the wife of I club member she can "cnjoy time prIvileges of the club , " whIch means keeping her horse at tim club stables , drinking an early cup ot coffee In tim club restaurant before taking her morning canter : site may ride In the ring every llay and all day , I she hikes : take part In time weekly musIc ride and invIte her .Innl" In n Iharmlnl little supper after- . _ _ . _ _ _ u , " " . . ward , "a glorious spree , " as every gala occasion Is now called. Mrs. Frederick Vanderbilt , for Instance , keeps her saddle horse there. Mrs. Duncan Elliott ( nee Salio Iargons ) has I high stepper , decked out In tIm neatest of trappings , which site stables at the club , and several tmes a week takes part In a music i-ide Mrs Jack Uoodlood , Miss Kate Cary and . Irs , August Belmont keep smart horses there antI trequcnty canter around time ring to lively airs admirably played by the full orchestra. Jrchestra. LIttle Miss Frederlclm Webb Is oren In time ring on tIme back of her prl e-wlnnlng pony "Eccles' \Vomer ! " Her mother , Mrs. Seward Webb , thlnl.s the music rides rather uninterestng , although aim Is occasionally a Icolter-on , "Tho horses prance so and so , " she says , indicatIng with her hands I slow n.ldn. hn Indicatng , wih , ) for mY nart I un ; ; l" care ' especimihiy ' ; ' nbout ! "en terlnlnlen t to , This , however , II not the "erllct of her neice , Miss 11m1Y Vanllerbl Sloane , who likes the music rides , and/Joh'peroned / by hH lkes mother , frequenty gives 1\ \ lithe supper to her friends after I canter at the 'club. ' The music rides take plac In time evening amid are of course the oClaslrns par excel- lence , alhol h every orernobn durIng the winter time Ilandromo recepton rooms have time appearance ot a lively afernoon function , 11arllcliary as 5 o'cloek al'proaches-that ' mystic hour where tea Is edmicerneth . istmicrved l by h toot- This grateful beverage IlerVd I - man In all time glory orl a vpoWierctl , slt- stockinged lunltr , who prGel 1 to set forth a table with every ulpolathCIH for afternoon ' soclahlty , here congrettb the youths and I' time maidens and the chaperons , uSlaly mothers - ers and ehler sisters , to refresh themselves before Ilnner , n 1 'IS I I any at the party rarb to take part In the ride , the supper comes ! race In tine evening - Ing ; otherwise the ritlo anPCh ! music can ! e enjoyed at coo and the sumac tme , Time table staOls naone'ot tIne large win- dews , through which there II an outlook upon the ring : timu table Is gay 'wih lower arid glitters with lights and sliver and cut IlasB , There Is a men wblch leaves nothing toe desired The hostess , upon the o occasions , has no leell to take thought ot the entertain- meat ; she Is as free train anxiety II regard to time nuttier as any ot her guests , for the culEano Is faultless , and sols time service l'rlu ; ' ; ; fur th" I l'lrst "What would I prepare for a New Year dinner ? " remarled New York'8 best known chief "Well . that depends upon the number of guests and the puuo For a dainty little affair which , say from five to eight persons , I would make out 1 lelU like this : Cream of Celery , fled naVllerl stuffed wih o'stlrs. 'I'omatues stuffed wIth nnum'hmm-ooms Graham hmiscuit . hlsl'ul. Goose stured wih Irlndv aISIRl' l'UICh , Ind ( 'ilestuiuts . Frui , ehee/c ami ( 'raCker. Coffee and liqueurs. "That dinner might take 1 little time tl prepare , but I Is not upenslve For a larger dinner , whcre ten to twelve guests are ex- peeted , this would bo appetizing : Hsqle of lobster. . Bal'OII stulIll llerh. : Mellow lltntoc ! Drrsts of chicken , It la Itmeu1ltms. StrJlg beans n In Albanl , Piau of mltCol. preneh st'le. Chicory wih cream , ' Grouse with apPle smumce. . GrlSI SIIC wlh n\\le Lettuce t'tihitml. ' fritters. h'ineapmlo frl tel Ice cream with walnul9. Salelt almonds , "Ilow Is this bisque of lobster preparll ? ' . ' I asked Dolmuonico's chef , alt lIe gave mo this recipe , whIch ammy good cook can prepare ! : "It an amount for ten people Is to be lIre- patt , cut twelve pounds of lobster In two , break the claws , sprinkle over some butter amt cook them on / baking sheet In / hot oven for twenty-five Ilnutes , Remove them alt suppress the largest shells : pounlt the meat with an equal quantity ot plain boiled rice , season with salt , pepller and curry , amt when It Is rCtucel1 to n paste dilute It with broth , strain through a sieve , amt warm Ul1 the soup without being ! : thicken It with harlt boied egg 'olks Ilounded wih four ounces of butter . and mix In 1 pint ot cream " For I large dinner wlero time hostess Is la'II/ the table for eIghteen or twenty imeo- lile a more elaborate lell has to ba thought up This one advised by I chef seems lt- mlrable : Plre of Cnrrot / la Crec ) Fresh Cotliish . 1 III Norwegimtmm , Potato Cakes Tenderloin of Beet Swcetbrcall Oreel Pe ! Englsh 8t'le. Canvasback tllt , with 11111 , I.etttmc . I.el lce. Ice Cream lo.lsse , with Marascimimio. Nit tmt 1\111 Halslns , "Antt this Imre of carrots a la crecy ? " 1 queried "how lh you prel1ro It ? " 'Yotm Ilst use the rell harts of the carrots only for this SOUII Mince two lmtmnds of tine vegetable , cutting them wIth / Imlto Into thin , length wI so slices. Pul two ounces ot butter Into I salcepal on the fire , amt when It begins to Imeat allt to It two ounces of onions amI fry for one Instant : then add the red carrots anti contnue to try slowly with- out lettlg It bloln ; moisten wih three quarts of broth , sal : multi a bunch of pars- Icy , celery aunt bay leaf ald boil until the carrots are entirely done : then Imt II halt a pound ot rice Ilrevlously blanchell a lt coolte In consomme , drain anti mash carrots ant rice , Moisten the puree with broth Intl thin enough , stir constantly , hearing on tine botom to prevent Imree from adhering ; let boll twenty minutes , remove scum anti fat as soon as ) It appears season with salt and sugar . and when ready to serve put slowly In two ounces of butter , stirring soup until buler melts. "This , " he added , "tales tme , as the only qUI ) ' for Its success , but II Is decIdedly a new soup anti has met with much flvor , " Tine fish that come Into tIme market with ' 95 are the kind epicures delght II , mil many delcious dishes can bo PrePared for a New Year dinner thnt have been fount wantng for many tuonnths-hmalibtmt , perch , red snapper from the gull' salmon from Oregon , American turbot , scallops anti terra- pin H. H. I'cmiumimuo Notes , nl\ ' , Ella m r , Iarlett , who was ordained a mInister In 1877 , has just accepted a cal as pastor of a Universalst socIety In St. Louis. lrs. Elizabetim Cady Stanton and her daughter Elzabeth , : , Stmmntomi-Dlatchm , discuss the tmuestion of an etlucalonal test for suffrage queston In the Woman's Journal , Mrs Batch Is op- posed to nn educational qualification , and Irs. Stanton Is In favor of one. Mrs. Elzabeth Cook fellow In plmyblology , has been awarded the first , Dasln prize , amounting to $50. The prize Is offered b ) the Chicago \Voman's club for the best research - search work In the natural sciences done by a woman In the Chicago university. Mrs. Dourlt Cockran , wife of time repre- sentative from New York , Is back at her Washington home and will probably take a lomlnent part In time gayeties of this season a ) : sine did In those of last Mrs. Cochran Is a very pretty and highly educated wonman ; A young English artist , Miss Id. Merrick , Is Imdertaltlng a work hitherto nol at- temllted-tho painting of time women of the Zenanas , She finds great difculy In coax- lug them to pose In thetr graceful native costumes most of them insisting on ugly attempts - tempts at ParIs gowns. I The executive board of the General Federa- : ' thou of \Vomen's clubs announces that a history of the club movement In this country Is to ! e written by Mrs. Charlote Emerson Drown , Mrs Drown was the first president of time federation anti ts devotell to time interests - terests of tIne movement , though she ts not one of the women identified with its earlier history. - - Slates and slate pencIls have been Ialsneu . The from Boston schoolS by olchil dictum. light gray mark op time only slightly dark- gry 01 . lght ' cued slate surface Is pronounced very trying eled Ing to the eye , and the operation of erasing as most often practiced by children. Is not ofen practced only uncleanly , but unwholesome as well. So time slates have gene , and paper and pencis have come. A timely comment on Christmas giving Is founmd In a paragrollh In a letter which h3isninrclc tine 1 "Iron Chancelor , " but mosl tender and devoted husband , wrote to his sister asking her to buy seine presents for his wife. Time first suggestion was a piece of jewelry , and ho says of It : "She ( Princess l3ismarclt ) wIshes for an opal heart like Bsmarck you have , and a persomi's desire lke his paradise . I ann prellared to pay about $ i0 for it. " Time Misses Swann are three Louisville as designers - girls who have made a success ers anti carvers of cholco furniture. In 1880 Miss Laura Swann late a cedar chest antI sold It for $35 , Miss Josie tried her 111 sell sold for $40. hanl on a wardrobe. which was _ rho _ third sitter designed and executed a si.piece : simile which was quickly sold for sJ.plece . The father then fled up I shop for the girls. They prepare work only on or- dcrs and seek only the best trade. No duplications - cations are vernnitted. Tine designs , time constructon lens , time carving , are all done by time three sisters FIAhlol NotcH Moire slt petticoats lined wlh horsehair are another inventions for keepIng the dress skirts well spreall ) at the bottom. Time butterfly sleeve , so pretty for evening dresses can be easily made with two full double rules of chiffon caught up on the shtouitler. Artificial flowers In some hrlght color are Arlfclot fowers one of the features of evening dresses , es- pecially these wor by younl ladles , antI are Irranged pecialY high 01 the lef side of the bodice Time long Spanish lace scarfs mnnay ! be , mniado into very efectvo head wraps by oUllnlng the pattern with 1011 threall and tying In at each enll deep gold fringe. ' A heavy cord fuly an Inch antI one-hal around , and covered with yelvet or a con- trastiimt color or to match time dress , Is set Into time ! olom of skirts to keep time ful- ness out In time Ilocltet folds bO much de- sired. That tall ot fashion to adorn tine neck wih all sorts allt conditons of ruches anti name. less contrivances of lace , fur , heat\s \ anti \I- vet , has de\'elollet possibiites never dreaml1 ! or when the immodest little draped neclhand first mate its appearance. One of time latest hapes In hats Is called the "marquis , " I Is ronnll In form Ind the brim turns up In such a way that I "reembtes a big , rounlt tart. " The trim mnimig consiSts of large bows or velvet In satin ribbon anti plenty of black aigrettes. Evening gowns are not the only lrses In dcmanlt for the house party outfit . for there musl bo day gowns , both Messy antI plain , nn,1 , the inevitable taller made dress , whch ! , like the brook , seems likely to go on forever I ma'nr ) ' In cut anti decoraton , ) but I Is always the ltress for real service , Tine latest colluro for pretty ) 'onng women with lots of fufy hair Is arranged quite low at the back anl waved over the cars . bnt the Greek style , with a few soft , curlng locks aroult the face alt a knot JUSl bllow the crown of the heat , Is mere generally worn alt , Is vastly more beeom- ills to the generalt ) ef women , A pretty aleroon Mess 01 black satin Is mallo with fols of rc1 velvet Inserted In time t1aleled skrt , The wait Is close fitting - ting In the back wih a ) olntllt red velvet yoke like the front , ellgelt with Mble. The vest Is of \het and the blouse sides are of narrow white satn ribbon covered with black ION Ins ' rlon and se\ud together Full niches of chton hllve wite , full enlls of lace hanging directly down In front like 1 bib 1ack point d'esprltlet. striped with narrow - row spangled jet and gathert Into n round yoke , fnlshOl1 with a ful bertha of wide ellg- inng to nltch , ant a sol collar trlumed with jet anll farIng bows at the side , Is 1 pretty famicy to ! , trmmnsoriu a ow-cnt ! black saln 101leo Into a mgn-neeKCl gown. A pretty Confection easily mad hns 1 touliaton of five or seven vamlyke Ilolnts of gtmipmmre Aronmt tllse whto soft lace Is gatherel1 The nipper edge of limo gulpnre forms the ( ollr , wih the aldi- ton of bright velvet satin folds or draped chiffon with rosettes nt the slle , A few jet cads studlted over the gulpnro males It moro dressy. . CU.VS . 11111.1 L12'IlS. A Clark eountr , Ga" , couple recently cel- ebrate.1 thllr galileo welhllg In the honse In which the ) ' were marrlclt amid which his been their homo conlnlously simice A yommngu'omnami of lhmmtto . Iont" , applied to nf court there the other day for permission - sion to kill her lover who hlli jilted imer . Sine thonght she had ' right to do so , hut ! walte.l . to go about I legally and tlccorons ! . , A Wabash girl ot 19 , who rlccnly eloped : 1111 got Ilrrleo , took the 11ercanton to paste the nnmbcr " 2t" In her shoe , 10 thlt I the 11reacher aslte.1 qnestons she conll truthfuly ( say she was "over 21" Only one ont of every thousand marrlell con pies live to celebrate their gollen wehlng , -but It Isn't best to lenlon this when yon congrtuilte the brIde , " , \my has celebrated her golden wetitiimg. " " \\'imat do you mean' " "The lan site married - ried Is worth $2,000,000 , A girl Isn't going to b married soon If a number or gentemen call on her on n SII- dRY afternoon. When an'thlng serious Is In prosllect all time men except time one who Is In earnest drop off . ot. Site sat wih an anxious heart and hal tearful eye furtively watching him as he was abont to taste his first dinner He knew what was passing In her mll1 After Ilnner was over ho said : "l'mmi sorry for one thing. " . , " ' " nmskemi "That I tildmm't "Whnt Is 1t ? sine "Thlt Iltn't get married sooner , so that I might before this have enjoyell your delcous cooking my love. As I cook you are I success. " Ho led , but the messenger who should have fown up to heaven's chanccry with the false- hoott folded his wings over his ears and dll nol hear it. A remarltahle romance In real life has just been roundCl oft In Orego" About twenty- nine 'ears ago James lard went to work for a farmer named Arnold . In Jackson county Oregon , and a few months later married - neil Arnold's stepllaughter. Soon after hetween the two , Armmolti trouble arose tlO men Arold took his daughter away from Hard , and when Hard went after her the two men qnarrled , and the result was Arnold was shot dead and hard fed the state his wife secnred a divorce and remarried Her husbaml died ' . Three 'ears Hard returned - a few years ago. years nlO turned to Jackson county , was recognized , ar- reste for the murder of Arnolll , and sent to the penlentary for a long term. During his trial his forler wife visited hIm fre- Quenty , time old love revived , and she worked her hardest to secure his releaso. She circulated - culated a petition for his porton , and after two years her efforts were successful , anti Hard was released , A few days ago the two were reunited In marrIage near their first I home - . - lUJUC.1'IO.'L , I The total number of students In Yale Unh'er- sity New Haven , this ( year , Is 2,350 , and the nmummiber of Instructors 204. Time statstcs fnrnlshed by Ohio ofcials show that In the last year tax pa'er con- trlbuted directly $13,000,000 for the lurposo of tree education In time state. I Time Prusslan grovernment expends over $ roooo a year for tIme supper of the laboratorIes - torIes connectell wlb the medical department - meat of the University of Iierhin . The sulan of Turkey ! has been the means of establishing OOOO schools throughout his omplre , not only for boys , but for girls also , which Is a striking departure trom time tra- dltionai usage of his race. Prof. Nicholas Ii , Maguire , principal of one of time Pimilatielphiia granamner schmoola , has sent in imis resignation. lie is 80 years of age and innms been comnnecteti witim time public scimools of time Quaker City since 1842. Time women teachers of Pinilntlehpimia vhmo petitiomned for time sanno salaries paid moon teachmers imave been met with tIme imropositiomm tinnnt tine salaries of thmo latter ho redimced to time femnmlmniino level. 'rho wives of tine macn teachers Protest that timis will mmever do. Time estimates of annual college expenses given 1mm tIne new Yale calalogtmo are : Low- est. $350 _ : general average , $535 : very liberal , $860 , as cornptmretl with these in time cOta. logmie of 183.'J4 , wimiclm were : lowest , $350 ; genmeral average , $591 , very liberal , $1,025. Tim trustees of iiarmmard coilego arc con- simlering time option of a plot of land suitable for their purpose of Morningsithe liciginta , near New York. Aim anomiymnmous friend hma given tine college $100,000 for a building , oim condition that it will lie witimini a thousand feet of Colmmmbia Cioilege. Time immconntm of mmli time ennlowmemte of Wil. llamas cohiege is distributed amumong tlmose students - dents wino etc kmmowmn to nneeth nniml for time partial or enmtiro 11a3'mermt of their college hula , In accormiance with a recent vote of time trustees , timia aid will be witimlmeld fromnn anmcim students as fall to make it rc5pectabho stand 1mm acimolarmmlmip. Minnesota hints a larger scinoel fund titan any other state ; numorti tinamm double that of any except Icansas anti Texas , auth very mmmcii larger titan eitlmer of these , It was derivetl frommi tine sale of lummd granted by time gemm- cral governmmiemmt aiii ( JiOV. ' ammiounts to nearly p0,000,000 , which aura s'ill be mlomniilo wlmenm all time lands are disposed of. Time funds mire safely invested and will provide tin mmbmmmmmiammt Income for as nnany emlucational lmistitmmtionmmm as Mlmmntesota will ever imeeml iiotlm of time lakotas hmnmve ahundammt edtmcationmml lirovislorna. North ialcota lies over 3,000,000 acres antI Sotmtin iakota over 2,400,000. Nonmo of timis lanml cant be ohtl for lees tlmamm $10 on micro. anti tinder tIme commetitution of time state ommly time initerest of time lroceenls cmiii iio useti , Time fund is permnmamiemmt. Time state of'aslm - immgton hmas grantemi 24129,780 acres for its sclmool8 , of su'imiclm 2,2131,780 mire for tIme coni- hiatt schools , anntl time rest for time state unIversities amid scientific inistitutions , MI 1'1e most delicious and economical breakfast food y iii the wide , wide world. Pure and sweet. Try it ! \ Sold only In a lb. I'aclminges. - a NERVOUS PROSTRATION , ( NsvaaaTmtssmA ) INSOMNIA , NERVOUS DYSPEPSIA MELANCHOLIA , AND THE THOUDAND ILLS THAT FOLLOW A DERANGED CONDITION O TH NERVOUS SYSTEM ArscuedyCEREBRINE THE IXT5CT OF'THL RAIN O 'THC OX , P5PARD UNDtI ) HE rossaut.a or Dr , WILLIAM A. HAMMOND5 IN illS LASORATOnY AT WAXHINOTON , 0 , C , Dose. onop. Price her phlmil of 2 tirmiehimna , $1. COLUMBIA CHEMICAL CO. WASHINGTON , 0. C. SSND , o 5005. . Is ) 1UIIN A CO. . AGENTS FOIt OMA1Ik. -4 O . . , REVOLVER 50 AND noxo : C 0 it. , , , tIei Iotnintion .m ' , 0 , ntm n.m. , , I , . , , ' , , omr apmJ ttr.nj rt'tss an4thii , , . , , , , , . , , Aitonitic tlh.'ti I frrmmr t'mtie eti , ' , , , . , , . , flevomr m'iim tett ll.te nii.'r . , , . , , . Inlet mtsdmb ' crIrttc. 320504 , , , , , . , , , , . .itIbeT. I ti otT I nut. to Iolucs Iimi im.tt brniorcisLtL EASTLAK E MFC. CO. Corner Adamsnind State Sts. , ChICAGO. Mme. Yale's Complexion and Health Remedies Sold by all Druggists , Highest Honors From World's Fair Endorsed by Congress5 . . Mane. Ya1e' Iloaaquartora. , , , 146 State ist Chicago : : : . : . . . . - . ( F1 ; Ti.-Tj.j : 9.I. : : : . : : . . A ? DOCT ORf SEARLES "v ! 1 &SEARLESV ' Iv'Chrouic , , i Nervous , 1'riva ' t\w\\ ' -.t\t ' ' 'I'1EitT.iEN1' lIt' MAIL , Constmltmmtinu Free. We cure Catarrh , all diseases of the Nose , Throat , Chest , Stomach , Liver , Blood , Skin and KIdney Diseases , Female - male Weaknesses , Lost ManboQtI , and ALL PRIVATE DISEASES OF MEW. . , wrAK MrN Amoli VICTIMS Tm ) NE1VOUII 1)eltltty on' mxltttution , VastlngVealtmnems , in voluntary Loeses , with , 1arly m.mecuy in yourmm mtrmtl mmuidlle aged , immeti of viuim. vigor tmimdnvaiteme4 , prematurely In 8protncimIng iII mmge. MI yeilrl readily to our mmcmv ( meattmieimt for loss of vital mower , Call on or miidmess with stmmmnp fur cii- . cuter , . tree boonc omni neceiitts , Ur , Searles and Searles , rRANCISCAN rOR0PS Puruly Vegetable , Prepareti tronn tIme original to mania m. rerved lit tiiti Arehivci- limo l'oly ( .mlmmd , ha' . , .uguu authetitic history dating baos600yoai-j , A POSITIVE CURF ( or all Stomach , KIdney anti Bowei troubles , cspecioliy iHRONIC CONSTIPATION , Zr1co 150 cemats. Sold by all druggists , the Francisan Remedy Co. , (31 Vtf 1JRF. ST , CUZCAOO , ILL , for Cirmumlns'i'd limuatramed Cnlendar , For saleJiyhu & Co. , 15th & ilonglas _ _ , _ t8. E. C. W3T' IIEIVZ MID ! EMIT T1ATMZ11D ha oltl tminmler pobiliro wrjttezm ituartluttee , by amitimorizod nertN oily , in cure \Vesmk Mt'nior , ' of lirnuin mmmd Nm'rve l'awern i.ot Msmmimottd' q Imim-kmncm-ml ; Nmglmt. isc.s ; Evil lrenmmicm ) l.cck a ! ( , oofttlenmrem Nervmmmnt'ss ; Lashitmtiaj iii lraiims ; Loss , f l'ower of time tennrativoOreun. iii chImer mcI , reused ' ( ( , m'z.'rtiomm . , Youiimfmmi Errorsor hzet'sm'eo t'Fnm l't 'J'ihaccmi , ( ) pimmrmm or Liquor , wiiirlm Iemnia ma Mhcmr ) ' , ( 'mtniiitiitlmn , hmIsannt7 itnd luthm. By inittli , l is lois ; six for iwltIn written mfnnlr.Immtee hi tore or yefaud zmmontm'y , weet' Lieu I'll. , iuro : Hick htemtmheimtm. hlmtiommmmaeas l.ivm'r ( kmr.immannmt. Hnmr , Sttmimrtthm Iyitci'sims and t.c.netlputiunm. 6UAli.t1Til * buedoulyby OQdrna Drug Co , Oamabi. '