Nebraska Newspapers

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I : 6 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ THE OJ\fAllA \ DAILY BEE : 1\TEDNESDAY , DECEMBERO , 189.1. -
CLUIING TiE MATTERHORN
: A feat Requiring lD Abundance of Strength ,
r Wind and Nere ,
;
BEARDING DEATH IN HIS DEN
rho Iescnt fnler on thc lulc hut
harder on the lcr'es Thnl ; the
: Aleent-Thrllnl Iccrjptoi
at the ' 'Overlnl I'enk
( Copyrlcht , ! , by B. B. McClure , 1.lmltN1) )
FIght : times Edwarlt Whymper strove 10 1.
. . cenlt ( Materhorn , and elghl tImes he failed.
& The ninth time he succeeded ThaI was on
: , July 14 , 1565. HilL the cosl of success was
appalling. In the little Zermal churchyard
last summer I saw the graves of three of
the victims ; the mountain crags never stir-
rendered tha hones of the fourth
: Until Mr. Whymper's successful ascent no
teot , except perhals ) an cagle's , had ever
pressed the proud head of lint Incomparable
mounlaln. The bell all braves guides 1n
the Alps had In vain essayed to win
H. Swltzcrland was pllcll against Italy
In the strife to he first at the summit. But
no experience taught sufcenl ! ski and no
courage ws complete enough to achieve vie-
tory over the giant. Proto Tndal , whoe
summer playground was Switzerland , halt :
moro than once m de the attempt , but , re- :
coiling front the menace of the final precipice -
1)lce ) , had al lasl given II up.
Ten thousand feel thaI wonderful peak
towers above the hIgh green meadows of Zer-
mati anti 14,800 reel above sea level , and In
e.ry fool of Its stature there Is defiance ;
defiance to gravItation to pul ; I down-bul
r gravitation wi do It In thu entl-deflanca to
vgelaton lo cast a shred of covering over
: Its gaunt shoulders , defiance to man all the
mountain goal to sClle its precipices ; yet
the former has acclpteel the chalenge and
won , though the later Is too wisely Prudent
to attempt the Impossible.
lIST ASCENT Ol TiE MATTEIItIIORN.
I shall nol undertake to recall here the
story ef the first ascenl of the : latehor ;
I merely wish to recall the circumstances of
the dreadful accident thaI attended I , the
most tragic In the force of Its appeal to the
Iinaginatioit thaI the annals of mountaineer-
big contain. The party consisted of seven
men-Eltware Whymper , then already well
known as an Alplno clmb r ; Hev. Charles
Hudson , vicar of Sldllngton , Kent , 0 cele-
brated amateur mountaIneer ; Lord . Francis
Francs
Douglas , who was nol without considerable
experience In mountan work ; Douglas Robert -
ert Iladow , a young undergraduate of Cam-
bridge university , whose greatest teat of
10unlaineering hitherto 'had ' been the ascent
of Mont Blanc , a tiresome but nolo dllcul
- undertaking ; Michael Crez , one of the best
+ guIdes of his day ; Peter Tangwalder , also an
. experienced guide , and young Peter Tang-
walder. then eOllaratvelv new to his nrn
- n "
- - _ _ "n
, [ esslon : ,
_ _ _ On attempting lo descend after enjoying
their well-won triumph on the summit , and
when they had arrived al a point just above
the brink of the awful precipice thai falls
tais
three-quarters of a mie down to the cradle
of the Malterhorn glacier , Mr. ladow , It
Seems , lost his nerve. Croz , the guide ,
was blow him cutting steps , and then tak-
I lug held of Mr. Hadow's feel In order to set
them , one by one , Into their proper pltces.
Al seven were ted togelhel with a rope ,
and these above-lhe last one being Mr.
- Whymller , who was about 100 tee behind
Croz-were waitIng for the leaders to descend -
t scend 0 step or two before moving down.
, . themselves. As Croz turned , after placing
_ _ _ ; ' Mr. Hadow In position , the latter slipped
I anl , knocked Croz from his toothold. The
, , Jerk on the rope instantly dragged Rev. Mr.
, . Hudson and Lord Francis Douglas from their
( ; places. Croz In falling uttered 0 warning
cry , and Mr. Whymper and the two Tang-
'
: welders grlppflt such projections of the rocks
c as were within thelr ' teach , and braced them-
_ _ _
selves for the shock. The rope being taut
_ _ _ ' between them , the strain came upon the
three together and they held fast , but the
_ rope' ' broke In midair between the fier
. . i- fangwRlder and Lord Francis Douglas.
"I or a few seconds , " says Mr. \Vhymper ,
"wo saw our unfortunate companions sliding
g downward on their backs , and spreading out
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I A FNGEflOUS ) POSITION.
their huulJ : emJavorlng to save themselves ,
They I'assed ' ( rein our sight uninjured , this.
. . apPeared ) one by one , and fell from Ilreclllce )
10 precIpice on to the Materhorn gletscher
, . below , a distance of nearly 4,000' feet In
, helghti"
The survivors , appalled by what they halt
; beheld , remained for hal an hour motion.
, less and clinging to the taco of the moun-
lain The gulies , Mr. Whymper says , were
, t unnerved and afraid to descend further.
. . Irlnaly they cauteusly movld downward ,
xlng ropes to the rocks to aid them , but
, for two hOUr they were In constant peril of
' death Several times , MrVhymper says ,
r . "old I'eter turned with ashy face and tel-
7' terlnK limbs and said with terrible Ilpha-
' ' "
sls. 'I cahnot'
,
The bodies of Croz , Rev , Mr Hudson and
Mr. Hadol were found on the laterhor
glacier but that of ' Lord Francis Douglas roe
: malned somewhere nmon& the precipices
above .
Peter Tangwalder ( the young Peter ot Mr.
WhY ller'H narrative , buL now himself an elderly -
erly lan , and with the exceptol of Mr.W'hym-
. Iler the only remaining survivor of the famous
¶ catastrophe ) pointed out to ceo the place
t' ' where , twent-nlno years ago , the fatal shIp
, bail . occurred while we clung to the smo
grim brow of tht mountain on the 6th of
' August lul.
A C ) nEIONOUS GETTING RFADY
, J halt arrived In Zermatl on Saturday
, night , August 4. Early Oi Sunday morning
a I came from the breakfast room of the
' Monl Cervin I met the concierge of the
: botch . and said te him :
"I am goIng to climb the Matterhori , .
Where sllil I look for guides ! "
. : ' Ue starell 01 me for 1 moment , and then ,
- IlolnUnG to the hotel 091cc said "Oh ' '
. ofce , ; , ) 'ou'l
have to see Ir , Seler aleut that "
Evidently he did not regard me a a prom-
" iing candIdate for Alpine hoenra , but having
, no pretensions In that direction I was not
offended. Entrll' the ofce 1 found Mr .
t Oesch , , the secr lar ) ' , who at once took an
L . interest la my Ilroject lie haiti II before Mr.
I. Seller , and le hter , leavIng hits breakfast t ,
kt came to cross examllc me. Ur began by
I' asking me I I hail 1 ha.l . nlch experllnco tn '
1 the bilh , Alp. 1 r 'plel no , but 1 bad spent
. ' . night on th" top of Plkt's l'eak In Auter- :
lea , which was almost as hefty a the Matters
horn I dl nol add thai I had ridden up
Pike's Peak In 1 railroad car , and that
people ascend . II every day on mule back.
I I had told him that , perhaps 1 should not
have climbed the Matterhorn . But It was nol
with , any intent to deceive him thai I withheld -
held the information , for I supposed .thal he
only wished to know I I could endure the
effects of the rare atmosphere al great dc-
, 'atons.
Still he demurred 1 little , and advised me
to try some less difcul peak al first , and
so approach by degrees the attempt on the
Matterhiorn. : But I insisted that I had no
time to wall to ho trained ; besides , the air
hall just cleared after two or three days of
rain In the valleys and snow Ipon the mountains -
tains , and the opportunity of good weather
should nol be thrown away.
The beauty of the morning was perfect.
The ltte valley was a cup or sunshine. The
white peaks on its brim stood out against
the bright blue sky In silhouettes or snow.
I strolled along the narrow , stony street to
the old church where worshippers were
thronging In , and the sound of solemn music
stealing out floated sweet upon the quiet
air Conspicuous among the tombstones on
ono side side of the church yard was a
granite cross bearing the name of Michel
Croz , erected to his memory , as the Inscrip-
ton recorded , by his fellow guides and can-
ton men of Valals , On the opposite side or
thin church , In a sunny nook of the eastern
wall , 1 found the Lomb of Hev. Mr. Hudson
aM ( Mr. Hallow. Near them , side by side ,
are burled three other victims of II precl-
plees. Across from the Mont Cervln hotel , on ,
a grassy knoll surrounded with a garden of ,
AlpIne plants , stands the Englsh church ,
and ranged along Its west wall Is stIll a third
row of tombs commemoratng other adventurers -
hirers who aspired to scale those mighty
eternity heights . and pasel Instead the precipice or
lAJNG A START.
Returning 10 the hotel I found my guIdes
ready to depart , and \\'us IlelghlCt on learning .
Ing thai Peler Tangwahler was lo be the
leader. The oilier guide was Emi Graven , a
stout young mountaineer of growing reputa-
lion. We started cit at once for the hotel
on the Schwarlzee highland , where 1 was
to procure provisions for the party amt woolen
stockings antI mittens for myself. On our
arrival there the guides provided themselves
each with a hundle of fagots , for al the
cabane on the Horl , where we proposed to
pas the night , we should be far above the
line of vegetation and well within thaI of per-
Iletual snow , and fire would be indispenSable.
The Horl Is a kind of projecting tool or
the Matterhorn. From Il a shattered ridge
runs down toward ZermaU , dividing two deep
vale's choked with Ice. The cabane , erected
by the Alpine club on the upper extremity
or the Horl ridge , Is constructed of slabs
of stone , and stands amid snow on the verge
or a precipitous slope. Its elevation Is about
10SOO feet above sea le"el. I Is furnished
with an old stove , sleeping platforms , and
wolen blankets. Al the cabane , which we
reached about 5:30 : p. m. , the guides male
tea amt we partook of a frugal supper. II
was too chilly to linger long outside studying
the magnifIcent view , and before 9 o'cloclt I
was wrapped In my blanket and trying lo
sleep Dul sleep was not easily wooed with
the Ice-cold air pinching one's nose and
thoughts of the morrow rising unbidden In
the mind
Shortly after 2 o'clock In the morning the
guIdes were astir preparing breakfast and al
2:30 : wo stepped out upon the snow , the rope
was unrolled , and the middle of I was tied
around my waist. Each of the guides then
attached himself to one of the ends , Tang-
walder before and Graven behind me. I don'l
know how 0 criminal led to execution feels ,
but I know how I felt when this suggestive
proceeding was finished.
There was as yet no indication of coming
dny. The heavens were cloudless , and the
Matterhorn , rising athwart the Milky Way ,
seemed to hang In the sky , blotting oul the
stars. Picking up a lantern Tangwalder led
the way around a corner of the stone hut
and out upon an almost level stretch of
snow , from which our feet awoke a low musi-
cal humming In the tense frosty air. Almost -
most before I was aware of II we were tread-
Ing on the edge of a precipice which seemed
In the darkness of abysmaL depth , , whie the
crusted snow that curled over its brink frequently -
Is
quenty broke under our weight. The first
time this thing happened the Impression
flashed across my mind that I was dropping
through a snow roof projecting from the
precipice like the eaves ot 0 house. How-
ever , there was no use In shrinking away
from the verge , for the snow field was up-
tilted In such 0 manner that on the oppo-
site side Il ran steeply down Into a gulf of
black obscurity.
ON THE FACE OF A CLIFF.
Presently wo turned 10 the left , quitted the
snow , and In a moment were out on the face
of 0 cliff , clinging 10 crags and ledges with
the upper edge or 0 glacier dimly visible
far beneath us. J had been In 0 rather
jaunty mood heretofore , but this experience
sobered my mind In an instant We worked
our way diagonally across the cliff until we
reached a higher part of the glacier that rose
to our level , and then stepped out upon the
Ico. here for the fIrst time I heard the
ring of an Ice ax cutting steps. 1 was like '
the first shot of the enemy to 0 new i-c-
ri-tilt This portion of the glacier was steep
and smooth , and the lamplight occaslenaly
revealed a huge crack , or one of those round
holes called moulns , Into which 0 person '
failing would disappear as In a well. For
a considerable distance we ascended on the i
back of the glacier , but presently the mountain -
tain became too steep for the Ice to gel a
grip upon it , and then we took to the crags
'
again , now climbing directy u'pward , now
working to the right or left around . vertical
Ilaces ,
My Inexperience made the rope n source of
considerable perplexity to me , for II was con-
tnualy getting tangled with my feet , while
my hands were fuly employed above. Then
In crawling sideways on the front of I prec-
plco It was sometimes . Ineccbary" while
hanging on with fingers and toes , to crouch
In order to save one's head from knocldnR
against projections above. AL such times r
found the rope particularly troublesome , ai- I
though II would have afforded my only
chance for life I 1 had faihen. But after an
hour or two I acquired a little skill In
managing I.
Climbing In such places by the dim and
'uncertain light ot a lantern was also some-
whal trying and I was glad when , al last , a
gray dawn broke upon the rocks , and Tang-
walder blew out his lantEr amt placed II
In a crevice to be picked up on our return
Now , at least , one could see what was below
and above him.
TiE HARDEST CLIMB STJ L TO COMIC.
When day began wo were high , up on the
easter face of the mountain , thai which Is
seen tram Zermat , the Jfel , anti the Gor-
nergrat. But the hardest work was yet
before us. Glancing up at the peak I saw
It shlnlng.n the morning sun , and apparently
as tar away and Inaccessible as the gilded
apex of a thunder cloud. The Immense
ridge , or orate , the continuation of the Homl
thaI runs down like a great wall between
the Furggen glacier on one side and the
Malerhor glacier 01 the other was an
amazing sight I Is crowned with Impssl-
ble.looklng turrets which , at first glance ,
seemed actually to be hanging over our
hteatls 1,000 feet abve , I was hall to persuade -
suade one's self that they were nol abont
to foil headlong and Involve the entire mountainside -
tainside In their ruin , Yet I knew thaI that
ferocious ridge , hacked and spilt and
wrenched Into fantastic and terrifying shapes ,
would presently become our only pathway
to the top of the Matterhorn. I was just
under this ridge that we IJassed t'\e ' IM
c.lbln of the Alpine club , now abandelE'1 hlll
flied to the door with blue Ice.
Hgher , we let the face of time mlnt 11
and got UpOn the crest of the arete. here
were Illaees where one had to t'ilt'e , hImself - .
self carefully , while the fatigue resulting
from time constant use of every limb < 11 not ,
to say the least , increase one's control over
his muscles I 1 a simple mater la stand
on a ledge only a few Inches broad when It
ft. near Io ground ; but put your iedo fLr\'e
cloud level , gel UI on II out of breath ,
Itt I voId ! fpaCI yrwr around your : el , " 'a'h ' 1
r.caliet that I II only the friction rf ) lur
fingers against the projecting rocks beside
you and above your head that retains you
where , you are , and you wIll fInd that a 'eIY
entertaining metaphysical element hal en-
terM Into the problem of how to keep the
center of gravity within the base
"Where Is the wont place ? " I inquired sty-
eral times.
"Not yet , , IOt yet , " was the reply ; .the
shoulder Is the worst "
' 'IE FIhARFUL I "SllOlTl.lIhR. "
1 \ry visitor to Zerlatt wi t11lmb r
seeing a curious I\lb \ near the middle of
the upper part of .40 Materhorn , which ap-
pears to prlje.t , trout the aide of the 1oun.
lain , being dark underneath , and white with
the
snow on top , The guides call this
"shoulder , " I Is 1 tearful spot . Yo imp-
preached II by ascending n steep slope of
snow resting upon Ice , which , In turn , lay
upn rock thaI seemed too smooth to holt It.
Having clambered upon the end ot the shoul-
tier overhanging the tremendous precipice
Been from Zermatt , we were compelled to
turn to the left , for ahad ! of lS everylhlng
dropped oul of slghl This maneuver
brought us upon something that I can only
describe as n great knife edge ot the 10un.
thin , rising sheer out of precipitous depths
amI connecting the arlte we had just quItted
with the main mass of the Upper part of
the peak. This marelouR ridge , which Is
also a portion of the shoulder , Is composed
of broken rock , cemented with Ice , and tipped
with of translucent as -
scallops o snow as porcelain
lain and beautifully molded by the wind
The rock on time tOil was In some places but
a few Inches wide , and the hard snow capping .
anl
ping II ran to a sharp edge , alt had fre'
quenty lo he broken oft In order to make
room for the l.a'lts . and feet. Sometimes
Oi my feel , sometimes on my hands and
knees , and sometimes outside I got across
Tlhl'OItST O ALL Tm PIECIICES ,
Bul when we had . attained ! the further end
or the ridge cur situation was nol improved
Wo hind come up against the race or the
worst of nil the precipices , that which runs
like I coronet rcunet the very brow of the
mountain. here time relt had very few projec-
tons upon Il , nothIng thai coult be calelt
ledges , amt lo the eye glancing upwarlt II
seemed impossible that anybody could climb
upon so smocth , 0 wall , anti one , moreover ,
which glistened In many ) laces with a cover-
Ing of thin , transparent ice Yet climb II
we mliii . The fingers , the toes , the knees , the
elbows , needed no separate urgings lo work
together for the common safety , but all in-
stnctvely round indentations , rugoslles ,
cracks , and frictional surfaces lo whIch they
could , more or less effectively , cln . I had
before , In less trying places , learned lo pull
off my woolen mittens with my teeth , preferring -
ferring , when every movement mlghl Involve
the question or me or death , , to trust the su-
perior gripping power of the bare nngers.
Time startled er heard frequently the jingling
.f loosened Ice beginning i downward jour-
ney or which II would nol 110 to think. I
would have been just as well , perhaps , nol
to have known that the all-swallowing abyss ,
whIch I rather fell than saw , was getting
lore and more squarely beneath us , as ,
sloping toward time righi-we slowly crept
ullwarel-was the 4,00.rool horror , over whose
brink : tchel Croz and his doomed compun-
Ions hail vanished from the living world.
And when al length we reached 0 place or
comparative security It was nol possible 10
avoid I 10mentary reflection on time fact that
wo must go down where we halt come upl J
one were compeled to do such a thing against
his will II would seem like the InflictIon or
the cruelest torture The Materhor can
teach , more self-maslery In a day than the
ordinary mortal acquires In a lifetIme . Fortunately -
tunately there was little time for meditation .
No sooner was one breathless scramble fn-
Ishelt than another determined effort had to
be put rorlh. And stilt the tar-ol summll
rode the sky like 0 cloud.
Soon after leaving the Shoulder we began
10 find , here and there , pieces of rope about
as large as a clothesline dangling from the
rocks above. They were blackened by time
wcather , stiffened with Ice. and frayed by the
swlchlngs of tempests , "so thai "alog"ether
their appearance was uninviting. I was
warned nol to bear too strongly upon them ,
but always to keep n grip on the rock and
put most of the weigh there. In one or
two instances small chains took the place of
ropes and these , though covered wih rust ,
looked safer ; but I am inclined to thInk that
II would be better If they were all away.
THE PERIL OF FALLING ROCKS.
One or the perils of the Matterhorn come
from falling rccks. Starting high aloft , they
can find no stopping place. Their first touch
Is like the crack of a gun ; the second Is an
explosion ! In great parabolic curves they
leap and soar until they burst Into sblvers.
There la nowhere so magnIficent an object
lesson In the law of gravitation as that pre-
senled by these falling stones of the Matter-
horn. Above the Shoulder we came upon one
of the most perilous localities for taing
rocks , and hurried over it , yet none tell
while we were , there More than once , when
completely out ot breath with lhe'Inaccus .
tome exertions I had put forth , I begged
for I moment's respite to recover my wind ,
the , guides would nol allow a pause , saying
thaI a shower of stones might asstl us al
any Instant. There I no questIon thaI they
were right ; yet , as a mater of fact , no stone
fell.near us during the entire ascent and time
subsequent descent. Indeed , I do nol remember -
member thaI among all the victims or the
Materhorn a single one has been killed by
a falling , rock But a. guide once had his
haversack cut In two by a flying stone that
just missed his shoulders , and several
climbers have been Injured by such mlssl .
Ordinarily these projectiles , Ille great shells ,
give abundant warning of their approach.
The arrival on the summIt was as sensational -
satonal an experience as anyone could wish
for.Ve had got upon another spindling
ridge as narrow as thal aL the Shoulder ,
and pieces of trostworl combo tel at a
touch and shot downward In a manner that
made one exceedingly careful of his footsteps -
steps Tho'preclplce under this ridge on the
left hand side was nol merely vertical , I
absolutely overhung , and the necessity or
caution kept my attention fixed upon the
work Immediately al hand , so that before I
was fuly aware how near we were to the
end I suddenly heard Tangwalder shout :
"The topl"
'EYes monsieur , the top ! " caled out
Graven behind me.
I took three steps-and another would have
sent me whirling 6,000 fell down Into Italy I
TiE SUMMIT AND A LOOK ADOUT.
Alhough time summit of the Mal rhor I
gradually changes In shape , party through
disintegration of the 1'hlstore rock , but
mainly In consequence of I variations In the
amount of snow resting upon I , II has al-
ways been described by those who have
seen II from time to time since Mr. Whym-
per's vision , as a narrow ledge between 300
and 400 feet In length , and In seine places
nol wide enough to stand upon. That was
also Its appearance as I saw it. At the
highest point a comb of rock projected
through the snow , and I knocked off 0 piece
and put It In my pocket
The view ranged over the whole of Swlzer-
land ( except , of course , that some of the
surrounllng mountains hid one another as
well as the valleys between them ) and over
norther Italy al tar as the Apennines. The
snowy dome ot Mont Banc rose hIgh above
all the Iealts ) In the west The nearer Alps ,
Monte itosa the Dent Banche , time Gabel-
her the nrelthorn , the Roth her the
Rmpnschhorn , gleamed In the sunshine , and
great glaciers were spread out like foors on
the east , the north and the west. Zermatt
was visible tar , tar below on the Swiss side ,
but Breul , al the Italian foot , was under 0
cloud Most of the plain of Lombardy was
also burled In mist , end a very remarkable
spectacle was produced by the pouring ef
whlto clouds from Italy over time mountaIn
wall joining the base of the laterhorn with
the Theodulhorn. Thousands of feet beneath
us these billowy clouds rose from the Val
Tournaehe , surmounted the lofty walls , and
then tumbled In 0 cataracl down Into
Switzerland . Swirling lnd losing they
swept a short distance acres the Furggen
and Theod l gaclers : and then , In midair ,
vanished There was no cessation In time ad-
vance from time Italian side no thinning out
of the clouds behind , yet beyond a certain
line they could not go , could not exist , but
on ness reaching , II melted instantly ' Into nothing-
TIE DESCENT.
A wind thai womild hardly have been noticed
below Ilroved disagreeable here , and we remained -
mained but a short time on the summit.
Iven I the most experienced guide cannot
enter lightly upon a descent from the Mat-
terhorn , and for a beginner the mere Idea
of going down some of the places we had
come UII was a thing to be banished from the
mind al quickly as posslimle . Ias to bo
done , but It was nol0 fe thouthl of In
advance of the doing. The cheerfulness of
time situation was nol enhanced for mae by
the fact that Ilurlng the later half of the
climb 1 had been suffering from mountain
slckncn , brought on by the combined elects
of strong tea , rare air anti exhausting mus.
cular labor , I 18 as hard an I to bear a
seasickness , but luckily It does not affect the
heael-al least Il did nol In my case. I II
imail done MI I shoull have ben unable to
Ilroced , for on the Materhorn vertigo Is
entirely lnmndmmiisslbhe. I you cannot stand
mmond with , your toes over the margin of
I precipice , yU have no busIness there 1
wonder what would bo the tate of a person
who bculd ocUe helplessly Ill on the lop
of ( bat moultaln , There I. no shelter and
no means of shelter o-the sno,7 and windy
ridge , and one who 9j f1' not cOmmA"t of all '
his fncult could t- possibIlity destend
from It. Some years ago : guide , seized with
sickness al the hut te Italian side , nerly
2,00 feet below the 1 lml , was left alone
by his comrades whle ! they went down after
help. When the resctai-s arrived the man
was Ilealt. A sUbsequcf rescYls , writer declared time
sick man had ben Memned to lentil by
the mere act of leay1r/l him there , But , In
any case ho could ( ldrdly have been takeh
dr\ly
down alive , alhougb 1e was below all the
most difcult places r
Carefully treadingonce < more time snow-
toppell ridge we beg ) the descent. Its worst
feature InlnOlately'erame : mnnIfcst. ; ' the
eyes could no longet ) volt the vacuity that
gaped beneath mis 'ngwalter , In virtue of
his greater experIence . how assumed the last
place , where he coulilfemmd the most effective
ali If 0 slip occurred no remained In the mid-
mIle , and Graven lell , Constant vigilance was
the price of life. Theoretcaly ! , and I believe
practically as well , the rope by which one Is
fastened to his guides II an assurance of com-
Ilral\'e safety for all three ; yet there were
many polnls where I could not he'p wcnerlng
whether If I shoull slip Tangwalder , man of
Iron though he was , would nol come tumblng
after me , and where I was mortally certain It
one of the others fell I shoull go along wih
him Inlo the deptims . orlunalely there was
no test case ; I did nol make a misstep or a
slip nl any critical point. In the most dangerous .
gerous plnces only one person moved al a
timime. The leading guide went on Intl he
was so Placed thaI he could gel a good grip
on the rocks , or a safe holt wlh his Ice ax.
Then I followed and took his place whim he
pushed on to another hohlng , allt lhen the
last man Joined me , mind II became my turn
to move again .
FISHING WITH TiE TOES FOR INVISI-
. UJ 1mOES
I was with a peculiar .ensaton lhal one
approached thc verge or a Ireclplce ) , and ,
turning on his face , began to lei himself down
backward , feeling with his toes for ledges
thai he could nol see , and that mlghl nol exceed -
ceed a fraction or an Inch In width , but lo
which he musl Intrusl as mich of hIs weight
as his lingers , cutching similar projectons
above , were unabll 10 support , whie , with
one leg dangling , he reached down for another
precarious footlmohml . } And whenever he glanced
between his body atI the rock to see what
his feel were about he caught a thrilling
glimpse of precipice below precipice and crag
under crag , whose plaYlhlng he would become
I his head dlzzlell , his eyes s\al : , or his
lusc1es refused instantly to perform their
whole duly Such are some of time joys of time
laterhorl ! I do nol say II mockimmgly . : I
am giving a record of psychological Impres-
slon , and these things , like any mastering of
humaa weakness , are a joy In recollection .
Burke proved that terror Is a source of the
sublime , and sublimity Is certainly a source
Dr jo ) " .
Time work of descent was nol as exhausting
to the physical forces as thai of ascent , but
I was even a heavier lax on the nerves , and
It required an equal expenditure or time.
\\a had been about seven hours In clmbing tme.
from the cabane totlme summl , a distance
but little exceeding a mie In an all lne , and
wo were long In getting back to the cabane
again. The guides , of course could have
made the round trip much quicker , perhaps
In hair the time , but nol being trained In
such work I
required frequent slops lo
recover -
cover my brealh , 'as well as to struggle with
the nausea which did nol leave me when wih
got to the toP. but nccollanlef ) IP lnwn . In
the Schwartzsee hotel . where " i - - flmmahly ; ;
yielded to 0 good nlghl's slecp I would not ,
however , convey thc Impression thai the
guides , I unaccompmjmfled , would be In any
degree careless , although ! , they might tr\cl ;
more rapidly. Timem o are no more careful \
carell
men In the world. 'hey consider the consequences -
sequences of every tep' bHore they tale it ,
for they know betef , than anybody else thaI
their lives depend upbnl tflelr % Caution. .
GONG DOWN BACKWARD ON ALL
FOURS
On time Ice slope , , covered with snow just
below the shoulder
blow , we went down backward
on all tours , thus distjmting our weight as
widely its possIble , dlslr/Iltng / to prevent the ,
loose snow , now softening by the silo , trom
starting an avalanch which would have car-
ned us to inevltableidestruction. When we
reached time glacier ' 'b t the ' cabana , ' whiimim
had witnessed 'the
beginning of our adventures -
tures before daylg1I , II was nol without
deep interest tht : IMW Its surface dotted
doted
with fragments oC rtdIJhat , bad talen dur-
Ing our ; aimence , u1donio c-'whmicfl'Jmdd
: IDCe teme -
, "
plowed and gouged ! the ) c.Ighi , In' our
track. When we passed betore sunrise the
cliffs above wjre hard fro1en ; Later the
morning sunbeams tailing upon them had
released the rocks pried loose. by the frost
over night , bull ' held unt then In' time grip '
of the Ice , and sent them spinning downward.
On our return In tIe afternoon the sun had
left the clllagaln , and the failing of rocks
had practically Ceased . rocls
\Ve paused to make a cup ot tea at the
cabano and while Tangwalder and Graven
were building a fire I stood outside tie
spectator of curious
a phenomenon. The sun
was hidden behind the Materhorn and an
Immense beam of light , 40 degrees In length ,
like the tail of a glganto comet , extended
straight out from the 'apex of the peak and
seemed to be brandIshed over Switzerland.
I required but little imagination to picture
a mighty angel standing there to guard the
paradise ot snow agllnsl tht Intrusion ot
mortal footsteps from time lower world , and
I could readIly understand how such melc-
orologlcal wonders as this must have been
potent In producing those early traditions
which proclnlmed the ' lat rllr a sacred
mountain whose secrets were forbidden to
man.
man.When wo reached the Schwartzsee the
magnificent mountain had rolled a cloudy
turban about Its head , and an Englshman ,
with his guides whom we met on their way
to the cabane , returned the next forenoon reporting -
porting that upon ascending to a point be-
low the shouhler they hall been drIven back
by imail. When I again saw the sun shining
on the peak its terrificprceiplces had their
brows snow encircled with chaplels of new-fallen
DOES A CLIMB UP PAY THE ? MATERnORN
1 have been asked twenty times I tIe
view front the top of the Materhor repays
one for the effort expended . In climbing It.
No , II docs not. But , lhen II Is not for
time view thaI one climbs the Matterimorn .
clmbs Materhor.
Some of my trlends appear to think thai
I had an Idea of establishing aim observatory
on the top of tie mountain An observa-
tory would be useless it I I could be placed
lhere. The atmosphere of the Alps Is not
lho kind of air the astromer Is In search
of. I had nQ ulterior purpose whatever
Do you nol ImQw that there are some things
which are worth doIng for their own sake ?
GAnnETT P. SEI1VISS.
.
TELL TALE SHADES ,
Churacler of tht Inmnatem , Toll by time 'Vln.
dlw Ilnl8.
"I don'l know anything about time front of
0 house thai lore clearly Indicates the character -
acter and condition cf time Inmates than time
widow shades , " sald':1 : young woman ot ob-
servaton to the Nelv ; York Smimm. "If you see
the shades all drawn down : to precisely the
same level In every wIndow you can tel a
( ace thal the house Is ccupled by a single
family and thai the mistress Is ot a severely
orderly spirit Thmere'll nol b a timing out ot
Its accustomed place ' 'n haI house you can
rest assured , I the sbde of al the UII-
stairs wildows are 41wn down to tIme top
of the botlem 8ash , whl those of the parlor
are drawn clear down you can safely judge
the talnly of that hOuse , to he one of those
essentially domestic n sthmat live mostly upstairs .
stairs ; whcro the bedroom Is al ence the
wlfe's sewing room and the imusbammd's library ,
and where tba paf hpr Is only opened on
state occasions. If the bedroom window
blinds In the middle , flory are halt way down
while thcse on the top floor and ot the parler
are away up , you wonl be wrong In saying
that tbal house Is rleby , , the young folks ,
who are going 10 have \ flood of aun3hlno In
their bedrooms eyen If II does fade cut the
matting , and who are not going to have the
parlor smelling like a musty old church
"The room with thai ODe window blind
run clear up to the top Is eccupled by a man ;
and If you see the window shades al different
belght you take It for granted thaI lucy
have let lodgings there or thai time houso. ,
keeping Is of I decidedly frowsy character
One at the mOlt unfailingly indictve ! shade
Is that which runs diagonally across time
vindw with one corner lose under the
roller and the other hal way down time
sash The woman of that window Is a aJatterq
and It's bablel to bodkins thai the growler
II rarely empty tbere.
\'Theze are , of course , only the broad in-
dlcaUonl of the characttr readIng that lay
be d ne from the position amid wag of time eye-
lds of a house ; for I suppose It Is not forcing
a fguro of speech to say tbat I the windows
gre the ere of a house the shades are time
- ,
t - OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO - . - - - - - 4. . ,
( TIE PRINCESS MINE ,
, ;
nv
. C RCHA I HARING DAVIS' It
8 COMMENCES IN
Harper's Magazine . "
/ . , ( " "
8 JANUARY ' -4 " . " _ . ' . I" ' '
; , :
, ' ;
}
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8 I. { , . i ) .
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8 TIOMAS "AROV'S new novel , hearts Insurgent ( .lllu.\lon \ " _ . . , ' \ " I \ I , .J , _ , . -p.4 ! I ) )
" " , ' '
, ( The Limplemomis under a new hue ) ; V , ' j : : , : . c. ' . . ; . 1 - , , . ,
8 JULIAN RALI'hl'S fiat on Ihe New South , emthled , Charles. - ' .
paper
JULAN RALII'S lnt ' ' '
1 leron elllledCharle. jr \ 'M 'ts'4j.'S ) r. .
. . ; ; '
8 ton and the carol ANn , \ hmhi 27 liiumtr.mtlons ; ' . " ' r' \ . , I
8 FIVE SUORT STORES _ \ 'J \
SnORT STORmS
8 are among Ihc mon ) other Striking ( eUurcs , . . _
nul , flee . 21M. i'ubtlsed ) by lmAmu'mR : .i migoTlimmas , -e. YOk , \ 4:1 I
- - . _ - - - - - - - - " - - . - - - - - _ - _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ p .
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gooooo
0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000600 0000000000000000C
- - "
lids nilt can be held primly slrlghl or give
0 drunken wlnl " .
JOHN JAMES AUDUBON
Hellnrimbto ' 'orlc of tIme 'Int AmerlcRn
Zmmtmmrahiqt ,
1"tlral t
In the days when Louisiana was a province
of Spain , a little darkeyed boy used to wan-
der among time fields and groves of his
rather's ) lantaton studyhlg wllh eager delight -
light the works or nature arounl hmimmm
I.ylng under the orange trees walchln the
mocking bird , or learing from his mother's
IIS lho names of the newel thaI grew In
every corner or time plantaton , he soon came
to feel lhal he was parlor thaI blautfnl
world , whose language was the songs of
birds and whese boundaries extended to every
place where a blossom lifted Its head above
the green sod. No other comlanlons suIted
him so well , and mme root s ( med so secure
as thaI formed or the dense foliage under
which Limo feathered tribes resorted , or the'
caves and rocks to which the curlew and
cormoranl retred lo protect thelsel ves from
the fmmry or tIme tenmpest In these words we
read the first chapter of the life history of
John James Audubon , the American natural.
1st and the author or one of the early classiC
of American literature. nalural-j
In those early days his father was Atmmlu.
bon's teacller and hanll In haud they searched
the groves for new specimens , or lingered
over time nests where lay the hel\less young
I was time tat her who taught him to look
upon the shIning eggs as flowers In the bud
and to note the different characteristcs
which distnguished timemn These excursions
were seasons of joy , but when the time came
for the birds to take their annual departure
time joy was turned to sorrow. To the young
naturalist a dead bird , though beautifully
preserved and amounted , gave no pleasure.
I seemed but a mockery of life , and the
cons tan I care needed to keep the specimens
1 geed condition broughl an additional sense
or loss Was there no way In which the
memory of these reathereel friends mlgh'
do kepi fresh and beautiful ? He turned In
his anxiety to hIs rather , who In answer laid
before him a volume or illustrations. Audu-
bon turned over the leaves with a new hope
In his hearl , and although the pictures were
badly executed , time Idea satisfied him. AI.
though he was unconscious of II , Il was the
moment of the birth of his own great life-
worlt. Pencil In hand he began to copy na-
'tUr ' untiringly , alhough for a long time he
: produced what he himsel called but a family
lor cripples , the sketches being burned regularly -
larly on his blrlhdays But no failure could
stop him and he made hundreds of slelches !
of birds every year , worlh less almost In
themselves because of bad drawing , but valuable -
) able a" studies of nalure.
. Meantime for education the boy had been
Iken' from Louisiana 10 France , the home
of his falher , who hall wished him to be-
come 0 soldier sailor or engineer. For I few
hours daily Audubon now studied malhe-
matcs , drawing and geography. only 10 dis-
appear In the country when study hour were
over , and return with eggs , nests or curIous
plants. His rooms looked like a museum of
natural ( history , and time walls were covered
'with drawings of French birds.
For one year he wrested dutifully with ,
problems and theorems , counting himsel
happy I by any chance he could fly to the
country for an hour to take up his acquaintance -
ance with the birds ; and then the father ad-
mltled the son's unfitness for military pur-
suits and sent him to America to take charge
of some property.
Audubon was then 17 years ef age and
had but one ambition In life-to live In time
woods with his wild friends .
Ho was the best skater In all the country
side ; al balls and parties he was the amateur
master of ceremonies , gayly teaching the
newest steps and turns thaI he obtained In
France. In the hunt II wa Audubomi
dressed , perhaps , In satin breeches and
pumpl , tcr he was a great dandy , who led
the way through the almost unbroken wilder-
ness. Add to this thaI he was an expert
swimmer once swimming the Schuylki with
a companion on his back ; that hI could play
anyone of halt a dozen Instruments for an
impromptu dance , thai he could plait a set
of picnic dishes out of willow rushes ; lraln
dog and do I hundre.1 other clever things
antI II Is easy to see why he was a general
tavorlte.
Ills pri\'ale rooms were turned Into a
museum , TIme wals were covered with
, festoons of birds' eggs , the shelves crowded
'wlh ' fishes , snakes , lzards and frogs ; the
I chimney displayed stuffed squirrels and
opossums , and wherever there was room
hung his own paintngs of birds. I was
the holiday of his life for the young lover of
nature and he enjoyed I with good will.
here suddenly the Idea of his great work
came to him as he was one day looking over
his drawings and descriptions of birds ,
SUlldenly , as .I seemed to' him , though lila
whole life had led to I , he conceived the
plan of a great work on American ornithmoiogy .
Ho began his orlholog
gigantic undertaking as a
master In the school of nature , wherein he
had been FO talhful a sludent , for he now
saw wIth joy thaI time past which had often
seemed Idle had been In realv mini oren
labors that were 10 bear fruit. - - , - . . .
Season after season from the gulf lo
Canada and back again , these winged creatures
of the air weeded their way , stopping to hatch
and breed their young , bfcoling acquainted
with I.olisiana orange groves and New
wih groyel I ng-
land apple orchards , now fluttering vtim
kindly ! sociability round the dwelngs tulerlng of men
and again seeking lonely cones among Inaccessible -
accessible mountain tops , pursuing their
course at all tme ulmon without the thought
alt cognizance of imiamm
J was Audubon who was the conmquerom.
I not the discoverer of this aerial confueror
song , ot which , he blcame the Immortal hll'
torimmmm I was his untring zeal which gave
thus early to AmerIcan literature
lterature a sclen-
tno work of such vast magnlulll and 1m.
portance that It astonIshed the ciemmtlats of
Europe I and won for itself the fauna ot being
time most gigantic biblical enterprise eVer
undertake by a single individual Te do
this meant a Io of almost conatant change ,
and AUdubon can hardly have had an abld.
Ing place after his first erlous begimmning
The wide continemmt hecame
contnent his home and he
found his dwellng wherever the winged
'
'trIbes oughl shelter from the wind amid
mmtormn His Ilrfull was often Interrupted
ly oecupaton8 necelary for the suppert of
his famniiy . for at his father's death he hail
glve to hil sister his share or the estate
and so becme entirely dependent upon his
own efforts for a livelihood ; but at all timimes ,
no mater what his sItuation , his heart was
In the wili retreats of muature Traveling
through time west arid south In search , ot
fortune , aH well aH of sprchnens , his experl-
leneeB were often disemmchmammtlnmg . At Louis-
vie and New Orleans he would be forced
, to make crayon portraits of the princIpal
: Citizens In order to raise the money for
I faintly ' expenses. Again he taught drawing ;
te served at tutor In private families , and
In order to seCUre funds for the publicatIon
of lila work , ime earned $2(1) ) by dancIng
lessons , the largest sum he ever earned.
Many \usinesl speculations enlisted Audu-
bOI\'H \ hopes , but al failed utterly. Once he
embarked his Immummey 1mm a ieamn mmmiii which , ,
beimmg built in mmmi unfit place , soon failed ,
At another time lie hougimt a miteaunboat
Whcii , proving sum unlucky speculatlomi , was
sole to a shrewd buyer who never paid the
r-
_ _ _ _
_ - - - - -
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' - -
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purchase money. Again ho was cimeated in
time clearing of a tract of tlmmmber.
But lila studies in nattiral history always
went aim , When lie had no niommey to pay
his passage up time Mississlppi lie bargaimmemi
to draw limo portrait of limo captaimm of time
steammier amid lila vife as remimuneration. When
lie needed boots , lie obtained timem by
slcetcimimmg tha features of a friendly shoemaker -
maker , and more than once lie paid his hotel
bills amid saved sonmetlmimmg besides by sketching , -
ing tIme faces of time Imost. anml lila family.
On time other lmanmd , lmi atlveimtures in seamchm
of immaterial for lila s-ork were romammtic
enough to satisfy tIme most ambitious traveler.
From Florida to Labrador amid ti-omit time
Atlantic to time thmemm umiknown regiops of time
Yellowstone lie pursued his way , often alone ,
and not. mieluloni mm time amidst of d1mmmgera
wimiclu threatened life itself , lie hiumited
buffalo with time lmmdlans of time areat Plains ,
amid lived for nmommtlms iii time tents of time
fierce Sioux , lie spent a seasoim Iii time
winier camimp of time Slmawmmoes , sleeplmmg
wrapped in a buffalo robe , before time great
camp fire amimi iivlmmg upon wild turkey , bear's
grease and opossmmiims , Here lie made studies
of cheer , bears , coumgars as seeli as of wild
turkeys , prairie liens amid otimer bhmdum , For
days ime drifted ilowmm time Ohio in a. flat-
bottommmed boat , searching the unimmbmnhiteml
shores for specimneuma and living time life of
time frontierammimmim , wlmose tInily tooth must ho
mimupphled by imima own exertions. Soimietinmes
lila studies would tmmice lmhmn far into time domino
forests of time m'eat , where time wimito mmmnn
had never troml , nummi time only timing Unit miug.
gestecl hmumimanity , woulml ho time mimumoko risimig
uthies away form time evening camp fIre of
soimme Indian hunter as lonely as hImself ,
Once as hue hay stretcimeti on time deck of a
small vessel aacenmmhhmmg time XmliamiIFsiilpi , lie
caught sight or a great eagle circling imimout
lila head , Coumvimmcemi that it wait a now
species , lme i-nitemi iatientiY , for two years
before lie tmgmmimm had mu ghimmipse of it flying ,
in lazy freedom , above muonme butting crags ,
where its young weme nested , ClimbIng to
time imlaco amid watchmimmg like aim Indian 1mm
aimibummim mmlii it dropped to its miesi , Aumlu.
hon foimmmd it to tie :1 sea eagle. lie named
it time W'usumingtomm semi eagle 1mm hiommor of
George SVamiimiimgtomm , Waiting two years
longer Ito was miimlo to uimiahum a specimen ,
fromn wiulcim lie mnhtth& time Imictmiro glveim in 1mm
work , 'Flmis lii Jmumt ( mime exmmmhile of time
tireless patiencim it'iiii wimlii lie prosecuted
hmimi studies , years of wmmilimig ctmimmmtlng as
umotiming if lie could but gain imis end ,
Ihommme of lmis 'hiecoverinim hut this kimmgt1m
of the birds lie relates 'lihm a romantic en.
thmuslammmn , Thiruuglmout time entire work
timere rumis time fob of waramest iympathmy
whim time hIm'cui of these creatures of time air
amnh aunslmiime , lie tells us of their hopes
and hmoves amud interests , from tIme timime of
time omest-nmaking till time young bath ficwn
sway. Time freidomn of bird life , its hmalmpi.
imess , us experiences mind tragedies appeal
to hilimi as do htoxe of imummmuaily. ' ( he
tlimico'ery of a hew bpecles a reported as
rapturously as thmS umewi of a imew star ,
Once ii ; Labrador , when lie was mmmakiimg
studies of the eggs , lmi son brnugimt to hint
a great imawk captured emi tue preclpces ! far
above htI hmad , To Auulmmtuun's delight , it
warn that rare spcoiimmum , time gerfalcnmm ,
wlmoso whIte phunmage hmd lmsrstoforo eluded
time efforts rmf naturalists to obtain it , Whll.
-
CORN
I'or delivered prices on Corn or Feed of
any description In car loads iota.Vrlte
or telegraph
w. . H. BOOTH & CO. ,
Kansas City , Mo.
Weighmtni and grades guurantceml ,
WM. LOUDON ,
Commission Merchant
( ; rmtl ii amid t'ro'1sions.
PrIvate wirea to Chicago and Newt Ym'rk.
All busimiemimi orderim placed on
Board of Trade , . . I , ,
Correspondemmce solicited.
Office , room 4 , Now York Life BuildIng ,
Omimahia , 'I'elephone 1302.
Ihe rabmul drIpped down frormm time rigging
above , ' Audubon sat for hours making a
sketch , of ( lila bird aimml feeling as rich , as It
lie lmatl dIscovered soummo rare genii. After
twenty years tIme worlc woo vuhthlshed. , livery
mihmeciflion , from time tiny hmuimuimiiug birth to
time largest eagles mmd vultures , was skotchmed.
life size and colored in time tints of nature.
TImere were 471 of tlmeso plates , furnisimiuig a
commipheto Imisiory Cf tIme featlmereii triiies of
Nortim America , for they mmbmowed riot only
time otmpoarammcea of time births , but repreitenteml
also ' lie mmianmmers and 'Imommie life of timia
world of stmmig , Timi , hmiimmmnimmg bird Imoiseti ,
before time crimson throat of time trumpet
flower , time whmippnrmyihl remitiimg amnouig time
leaves of time oak , the bolmolimik singing aimmong
time crlmmmsomi flowers of th bwalmmp maples ,
time snc.wbirth cimlrlmimmg cheerily annommg time
11110W touchmcd bcrrieie of time lmohly wore not
m.itrttcimemm mci-ely , hut bits of stomy out of
imirul history , ho aba are those imicturos of
the swamm amimommg time reeds of thmq great lakes ,
Cf time great whtitn heron nielzlmmg its prey
front the vatera of time gulf , anmi of time
goimlenm eagle wlnmghmmg Its way toward time
dlstammt lmelgimts that It Immhiabits ,
Time ivork was puhilisimed by subscription in
Immdon lit 1629 tinder time tithe , "Time Birds
of l't.irthm America. " ' ( lie price was 80
guineas , LimIer on a snmmaiier and cheaper
edition was issued , The work is now very'
rare , Atmdubon lmatl time gratification of knowIng -
Ing that imbi labors were understood and ap
irecisted by time world of science , When his
exbmlbiteti lila plates in time galleries of England -
land arid France , mvimlthmer lie went to obtain
smmbscripiions , crowds flocked to see him , anti
the greatest scientists of tIme age wehccmned "
him to their rmmnmks , "Thmo Birds of America"
was his greatest work , thmoughm lie was inter-
mmmmteml somuiewhmat In general zoology anti wroti
on other subjects. , , fr -
HENItIIiTTA C , WRIGhT ,
N. W. HARRIS & CO
BANKERe ,
163.165 Dearborn-st. , Clilceigo.
15 Wmmli.st. , New York , 70 Statc.st. , boston ,
CITY , COUXiTY
' : lhoL ) WJTEk aed
is
-
TIIRRIUGHGRAIZ
agi a4 geld. Ooicspaasu aUcitJ.
' torm.tsiren & - - ' - - - - - . . . . . . . . - . . . . . . . . . , . . , . . . ' . . ,
' ' ' . ' uc.uvc ,
- siren 'u. . us1umu&uu
, )
---$0vcifettJre'--'f--be musiC wilt be time ruic'i-aistze , re cents. Aim uruggiltu ,