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MIPET OF DAM CRUM
Fair Facts of Tomoua Bellea at tlio Corning
Mew York Loan Frbibition ,
BEAUTIES PAST AND PRESENT COMPARED
Admnccd" Vonicii Sororoly Scored b ? One
of Tlmlr Own S x lilcctrli'lty Hupnrlor
to All C'ORiiiDtlcs Styles fur C'lill-
druii FucU and I'achloria.
In a few weeks New Yorkers will be able
to contrast lovely dames and belles of the
past with famous beauties of today. This
they can do by means of Iho vision of fair
women to bo held at the Academy when old
and new portraits from all " "parts of tlio
country will be on exhibition.
Virginia will be well represented with portraits -
traits by English painters of the well born
beauties of that arlstrocratlc state. In
" 'fo' do wah" mansions , whose Ionic col
umns are falling away from the crumbling
A ' ' ptnzzas which they supported , these plc-
? turos will bo taken down from the walls
j0f from which great squares of plaster have
al fallen. The soft eyes of the maiden In her
? a < > presentation gown are turned toward tlio
Srj ? window overlooking the rich hills and val
leys whsro , as dashing horsewoman , she
rode with gay cavaliers , and the toast was
always "to the king. "
Two great battles have" been fought In her
state slnco then , and the portraits of her
great-great-grandchildren will hang by her
side at the academy. 'The present type of
the aristocratic southern woman ( her an
cestor was termed "lady" ) , such as Mrs.
Burton Harrison , lovely May Handy or
tv ) ' < Irene Langliorn , who led thePatriarchs'
last year , will offer a strong and interestIng -
Ing contrast.
Massachusetts will send Us Puritan maid
ens ; thp'l'risclllaAltlens of their day. In
severe gown and spotless frill , who will
thef ttand as opposed In style , as they actually
cloi. were In manner ana religion , to their brll-
S2f llant Virginia sisters. How startling It
_ l would be should ths latter lift her glass and
I H nlut ! , in the face of the girl from 1'lymouth
vls ntck , ' "Over the Water to Charlie ! "
"Then in sharp contrast to the Puritan
girl will be Boston's fin , ' de Blcclo woman
_ MM. Jack Gardiner , for Instance.
J.UI The dlfforcncs In Rhode Island's beauties ,
? ast and present , wilt ,116 accentuated by
such smart young belles of today as Mrs.
t Ol.vcr Iftdln. nee Hope Qnddard.
, Tha Island of Manhattan will bo extcn ,
EXf Blvoly represented from its old Knicker
becker families there will be Van Kens-
BClacrs , Crugers , Schlcffelins and Schuylers
21,1 , In number , and all In picturesque contrast
y ' vlth ; the nineteenth century New York
. -woman that Indy fair known th length and
breadth of two continents for her
beauty ,
0wit and -style ; tlie woman who stands as the
loading representative today of our country's
{ wealth and culture.
\J Close observers -who visit the academy
1 and take careful note of the fair women on
Jlnj ' View , win be quick to see some odd and In-
tha' tcrestlriR ' ; emi > arlsons between women of
Jatfthe early-'and late days of this century. The
lr tlaV ° f Wy years ago painted .his dames
or dninscls as plump , boneless ladles , their
shoulders drooping forward , and supple
* limbs , pretty , but utterly useless looking.
.Different , indeed , from the alert fin do
Blcclo creatures wo see about us , with her
i flat back , square shoulders , small , firm
e bosom , nnd IOHR white throat. She Is moro
like a hlgh-bced racer , lithe , slender , keen
and graceful , while her ancestor is com
placent , more sleepy and gracious , as If her
mind dwelt rather on housewifery than
theosophy.
Ono also sees that the portrait painters of
today are moro truthful , the absurd , up
ward curve to the corners of the mouth Is
cane , the forced , shallow llttlo smile Is ab
sent , the eyebrov.-s ere not arched and
lengthened bryond natural conllnes to give
piquantnoss to the brow , and the two tiny
tendons in the If rant of a woman's throat
nro today In bold relief , being deemed by us
as a mark of beauty. Again , the new
woman-Instead of being painted In n fashionable -
able eoivn , prefers the manner ot Lcly and
Gainsborough , with n bit of gauzy -white
drapery flying ] oos over the bosom , half
revealing , half concealing Its loveliness.
Ths Dream of Fair Women will be more
than a. -entertainment for charity. It
will give opportunity to study old and now
method ? of pqitrftituro.
Six ! woo < 3 cutp o < advanced women , recently
.published by a newspaper , are calculated to
: auegest to tie- beholder several thoughts of
.gainful nature , -writes Gertrude Athcrton
An a totter to .Xbe New York Sun. Making
. " 'allowtnc * lor the -well .known short-comings
, r-V'tf'.obe ' woodcutter
recalling. Indeed , mora
* * 5aftnis icd portraits- theo she-males are- home
lier than Inartistic am or unleavened virtue.
Flashing n dark lantern Into the euros ' 10.nd
, -subterranean passages of memory , where ch
objects are packefl away especially o' its
after a late dinner not one face favored by
Jieuven out ot the whole pack til advanced
women smiles Into view. Some there- are
that 1n youth may liave Tjeen prepossessing ,
but tlioro < la no record that st that remote
period , they were advanced. Ot the younger ;
recruits tliera is not on that a man would
tarn , tils neck 'to ' look at not one I not 361 )
And we all know that there are men that
will ivalk backward to stare at any woman
i econtly good looking ,
Now , tlio question naturally arises , Would
the iwiie' ' women -advanced U they -wcr
.possessed 'ot that divine prerogative of their
sex beauty T II 'theywere even ronnd and
to : rosy nna pretty ? It Ik Ml very' well to talk
bout lha commaVtSIng atreiifth of tieredlty
Bad curtailed power of environment , but Just
transform an ugly woman Into pretty rat
and h will leap form pessimism to optim
ism like a torrent ot men
water that has been
unnaturally damned.
Vnr men nuka this world . very .pleasant
place for pretty women , even for those who
do not take undua liberties with the ca
logue. Moat womnn with beauty rry
young- , and art < iulto content to lat lomo on a
elit flght th * battU of life for them. 1C
they iiulio n ml take they quietly divorce tha
i ) nol < tr.t partr , in the contract and , -vita
ripened ' Judgment , marry igaln , Those \vha
don't marry , and ire farced to earn their
own living , find the way much easier If they
please the eye .of man , and naturally they
take an optimistic view ot life.
The odd part of It Is that thcso women
when they write their novels Invariably
make their propagandist heroines beautiful.
Detvltchlngly , seductively , stormlly , regally
or clrcoanly beautiful are these young women
of paper who would rcsolvo man into his
elements and remake him. after a pattern
which would Immediately bring the human
race to an end. These writers paint women
that physically represent all they them
selves yearn to be , nnvcr reflecting that
those pretty bsada would not harbor their
own dlstftCu nnd 'Indigo views of life flvo
mlnul'i. In the hands of a man or
those same heroines would make the es
But these wocd cuts suggest another alarmIng -
Ing question. Is beauty on the decline ?
For the ranks of the advanced are now many
and many thousands strong. The suffrage
movement , the temperance movement , th3
anti-man movement , the nntl-ln-general
movement , all of wlch may be
grouped under the general head of woman-
Ism , are filling space llko a mighty flock nof
crows , and hiding the light of the stars.
Of course their children If they condescend
to have any will be hldeousi and the ulti
mate prospect is awful. For nothing that
the human brain can cvolvo can ever take
the place of beauty , whether It be beauty of
face , of art , or of a , mountain umlar ofa
purple mist. And as these women are as ab
solutely without tlio sen so of beauty as boy
are without proportion , nnd humor , the
natural result will Iwiallithey multiply and
ov-rrun the earth , jtht | > bcaiity and the per
ception of It will disappear.
The only hope this 'planet has Is that
man will respectfully but firmly decline to
marry the advanced woman , In which case
the evil will bo confined to the present
generation. Hut th'ere as many feeble-fouled
males In this world AS there arc OlaUmpero'l
females , and the danger lies in their trcmb-
bllng admiration for ibon
and final absorption
by the Amazons of this
Immemorial .quarter.
In which case let us all thank our several
fates that although wo may be in at the
death , wo will be spared the contemplation
ot a misbegotten prostority.
Electricity Is greater than any cosmetic
as a bcautlfler. It also puts moro and firmer
flesh on the face in a shorter space of time
than any known tonic.
This fact has been found true lately by
women , with the result that those who
go
In , for flno rosy sklna nro taking electricity
along with other athletic aids to physical
culture.-
The machinery required is n small
, per
table electric battery with a faradlc current.
Be sure that U Is a faradlc. for Its opposite ,
the galvanic , burns and blisters , while the
'
other ' is only , to .quote an old darky
pow'ful stimerlatlve. . Ona of small
slzo Is th9 right sort
to
get.
Women who are
adopting thorn
cm
apply the current to the
muscles of the face ,
rubbing the sponges firmly over cheeks and
foreheads. The same treatment
is applied
to the throat and shoulders , The
muscles ;
begin to enlarge njjfd u rdari- the face alls
out , lines dlsappenrrAiflJid. n fine
, natural
bloom
shows untJerUheYlcir/
This Is what Jh advScafcs claim for It. I
know one woman who
was very slender and
she has gained twenty
pounds In three
months slnco using her battery. Women who
have a thin '
neck and 'shoulders
are
trying
electricity to develop the
latter Into
a con :
dition that will permit "of an 1B30 gown this :
winter at social affairs.
Its effect Is healthier than any oil , cold
cream or manufacturers' evils that are In
continual use by slender women desirous of
the abolishing of prominent bones and wrin
kles. Then It Is less expensive , the bat :
teries only costing $7 and
? 14. Jlore expensive -
pensive ones can be bought , of course , but
tlioso at this prlco are adequately beneficial ,
The amount of current to be turned on can
bo learned of any physician
, and there are
not sufficient volts to cause death.
Now York women , especially those who
have any nervous strain , such as great
social responsibility , writing or Illustrating ,
are enthusiastic over the effect. It removes
all tired lines , they say , restores th& nerv
" ous equilibrium " and , better1 than all ,
"fleshens" ono up.
I asked a physician about the truth of
the women's claims whether the result ; to
the face was from scientific
reasons or
chance. Ho said an increase ot flesh from
this faradlc current was undoubtedly true ,
and that hewould advise any thin woman to
use It. "You know , " he continued , "Its
effect Is on the muscles , " and he Illus
trated to mo practically how Its applica
tion on the .muicloa bellied them
out. as a
sail when the wind strikes It. Thia con
stant movement makes them enlarge. "The
flesh , " he said , "Is not gained by mere con
tact with the electric current , as the Ulty
supposs , but one's system is charred and
stimulated , the Impurities
of the skin are
thrown oil , tbo appetite increases and the
person quickly takes on Hash. "
"It > after effect on the muscles la not
bad. Is ItT"
"No. There J nothing injurious about
electricity except too much of It. The flesh
U ealnud by Bound
mitbods. Any woman
can hive a full face and , throat If ihe use's
ber wlre > s syjtsmatlcally. "
So the little battery will .be the winter
substitute for dumb bells and rackets In
muscle Raining , and halt the slender faced
women I know are going In for it. They
confidently expect to weigh twenty-fire
pounds moro by 1895.
With the swift-flying- , autumn days the
question arises "What are the little ones ; tote
wear next ? "
"Dut one ; thing at least is certain , none or
very few ot the llllputtan garments that : did
duty a year ago can , be pressed Into serv
ice for this October's use. Small bodies
grow fast. Indeed , Ilk * the enchanted bean
vine In tha fairy tale , they seem to alter ; In
a slntle night ; and with It all fashions i for
children change quite as of tea as do those
for their grown-up reUtlvcs.
Still , little lett-OTer frocks of the year
before always coma la , nicety for younger
sisters , so hire i /a uscfal hint for fresh
ening them up cleverly. If the smalt gown
U of plain or checked wool , band the skirt ,
wrist , neck and wain lines with several
rows of narrow waved braid in black , fancy
plaid , or some rich contratllng color. If
the dre U already trimmed with plain
braid , mohair or Mile. a. new and pretty
effect i * gained by running down the center
of tbU * second nilnut * xi E one In silver
or gilt.
Many of the newest imported model * i for
girls from 0 to 12 ye ri of ago coma with
braid woven In thli fashion ; but If neatly
mounted in the manner described , no one
would bo able to tell tha homc-mado garni-
ure from the Imported production.
mill another design In Mia new novelty
braids < or children's wear Is a. flat quarterfor
Inch band in silk or wool with a round ct > ra
In a contrasting shade as a lower border
edge.
The next design is an excellent model lor
the making over of old materials , that li
any -wide liandsomo old skirt of cloth or
silk that some unfortunate mother may pos
sess and feel In duty bound to utilize.
The original of this dashing llttlo gown ,
which bore"Paris" on Its price card , was
of plain silk poplin In blue nd changeable
green , across which ran a. skeleton bar in
Vcsuvlan rod. The low cut sleeveless blouse
and fool's peplum repeated this splendid
flame lint , nnd were of silk in a loose , pliable
texture. The plain skirt , saucily short , was
stiffened with hair cloth to look ns If worn
with a llttlo hoop. The largo buttons , that
stud at Intervals the neck band and shoulder
straps , were of blue velvet.
If the old skirt suggested is not forth
coming , any of the Inexpensive check or
plaid wools now sold could reproduce this
costume effectively. The chief cost would
be for the silk blouse , which , however , re
quires but llttlo material.
other delightful llttlo toilet whoso founds-
ono of mamma's palo last summer
' " > tnlsht easily make cottld bo taken
i'rom"thoNiW > lrd design.
The FreVh model from which this was
was"V cornflower blue bluet ben-
ira. , . . < . shot KcAttorlngly with sparkling satin
BDlnshes. The Htind yoke and lower slecvo
' flounces were o ? silk In a pale maize lint ,
iho yoke being inado entirely In rows of
tucks nnd herring bono embroidery.
Tho- belt and side bows were ot bluet
vclvot ribbon , tlireo Inches wide.
Taken together , this small frock had n
most grown-up nlr , antl It had moreover
Inscribed with the astonishing legend , "After
noon house toilet for a miss ot six ! "
It Is only in France that maids of six
have special afternoon house toilets , but
this tiny govrn is simple and charming
enough to serve as a good model and be
won anywhere.
In the matter of wraps , unfortunately ,
horn needle skill counts for very little. One
must have a special talent to give the pro-
fasslonal tailor finish required by the heavy
clot'is. Kor this reason , before any other
article of the final wardrobe , coats , Jackets
and ulsters are more satisfactory and really
cheaper In the end If bought ready-made.
A remarkably handsome cloak shown on
Broadway for a girl of D was of cardinal red
cloth with strapped seams. The pleated cape
hung round at the back , the deep pointed
fronts being finished with long stole ends.
The hat pictured with It In the drawing was
a Nnpoloon sliapo In cardinal red felt with
black as prey tips and cockade.
A very useful and mannish little coat for
fit baby boy of 3 years was made of gray
tan cloth with strapped teams nnd coachman
buttons. The sliapo has a loose double-
breasted one with rever fronts and a wide
cape collar at the back , and to be worn with
It Was a llttlo York cap of velvet of the same
shade ' , with a band and tips of ermine.
'The tiny ulstcr-llko cloak with the turn
back pointed hood Is a good design for girls
from 3 to C years of age , The one shown was
of dull coral-pink cloth with the hood lined
with an exquisite shade of palo leat green
silk. The hat was of coral pink felt with
ruchlngs of green ribbon and front pom-
poncttes Introducing the two colors.
The Kind Word society , that Mra' , John
Sherwood founded In New York CltyJ and inot
which the people and press have said so
much lately , would provu a practical boon
It taken up in Omaha.
Mrs. Sherwood founded. . It as a temporary
relief during last year's terrible strain on the
unemployed. Countless girls and women were
out of work. ires.
That
meant , In many cases ,
starvation for the whole family. toney
was sent them by many charitable societies ,
but brought no independence- onjy. tem
porary relief. Therefore , Mrs. Sherwood
gave readings , asked for money and sent
out circulars to housekeepers In the- many
and prosperous suburbs of. New York. She
sent also to the Working Girls' clubs ,
stating to the former that servants , with
reputable references would be provided tor
by the Kind Word society , and , tb the
latter that by applying1 at this office , which
Is In the Manhattan Athletic club building ,
positions would bo furnished.
The demand and supply began with a rush.
Women and girls cooped up in ill-smollltig
tenements were transported to air and In
dependence , and now the work Is beginning
to be ono of thcso charitable societies with
common sense as Its basis.
The question arises , why cannot , this sys
tem bo made applicable In other cities where
also the best of the unemployed are staring
In helpless misery Into the faces of the rich.
The aid given Is of .the light kind ; , ( t not
only Increases self-respect Instead of
pauper
ism , but lowers the death rate and' spreads
health. Such a society could be started In
every town by the
earnest work of n few
philanthropists and a small ' -
money'-stibsdrlp-
-
tlon. The
latter pays for the transportation
of Iho girls to their
country positions.-
The women of the suburbs are always
crying for competent domestics and many
would prefer to teach an educated , well-
mannered girl from the city seme of her
necessary duties , than bother with inefficiency
and awkwardness. , '
Nurses'
positions are- much sought after
by the city girls , for they like the 'romping
with the children
and the exhilaration bf the
open-air life.
Sirs. Sherwood , many think , has unraveled
a knotty problem. Let other spots where
masses of people are gathered together-with
out regard to space look well Into her method
and the Kind Word society will bo as broadly
as deservedly known.
"Tho motto of Soroals , " sold Mrs. Croly
to a representative of the
New York Times
" ' ,
"la 'Unity In DiversityWo believe in the
application of this , not
merely to ourselves
but to clubs collectively. U has long been ,
our desire to form a state
federation. , and
now I think the time Is
ripeOf course ,
the meeting of the 19th of November will
only be a conference to discuss the question
,
but It will very soon be followed b a con
vention , at which , I hope , every woman's
club In the state will bo represented. I
feel that before spring the federation will
bo a reality. Then the women's clubs of
New York , which have already ma'do his
tory , will rlso
to even a higher sphere of
usefulness " than they occupy at present.
"People who regard our clubs superficially
haven't the
slightest conception of their
wonderful growth and great Importance.
'
The
women's movement , of which they are
In a considerable degree the
cause , Is eve
lutionary revolutionary I would
eay , ex
cept for the fact that It Is going on so"
quietly and conservatively. It Is gaining
for woman the recognition which is hers by
right , and is *
helping her to occupy her now
position with honor to herself.
"People so often misjudge us. We are- not
working In special fields at all. As clubs ,
we have never agitated questions like woman
suffrage or dress reform , and yet Sorosls
was lor years popularly
supposed to be
> e a
suffrage club. If the truth bo said , It la
very probable that
a pronounced
woman
suffragist would be unable to gain admit
tance. We are simply aiming at the de
velopment of women along general lines.
JIuch lias already been accomplished. At the
.National Conference of Women's ' clubs , held
in this city , in 1SE9 , sixty-five clubs were1
represented. At least 600 are now members
o { the National Federation. A great
many
of them have delightful club houses , which
have become the centers of art and literary
culture generally in their respective titter
and towns.
Miss Sylvia , Green has a , fad which U hers
by Inheritance. It is Jor money. But , un
like her mother , Mrs. Hetty Green , It Is t not
for the making of money , but for saving U.
She Is constantly In .fear of the poorhouse ,
says the New York Sun , and Is afraid to
spend a cent , She has $3,000,000 In her own
right from tier grandfather , but spends
nothing. She Is most agreeable to live
with , being quiet , amiable and accommo -
dating , though cot GO cheerful as she m
be. She Is not stingy to tha household ,
will not spend anything on herself.She
devised almost every kind of bank for saving
her "spare" change , anil U always lo <
abend Into the future , with her money
den In her hand for safe keeping. Her I ( ;
friends say that this Is the result of early "
training , and will be eradicated If she ever
comes Into the fifty or BO millions her
mother will leave her.
Miss Consuela Vanderbllt , the young
,
daughter of Mr , and Mrs.
Willy K. , has a
fondness for bracelets. Mrs. Willy has ,
brought up her family well , and hat riot
overindulged therm In luxuries , but this
daughter , who will make her debut In about
two yean , owns a very largo collection ot
tketo ornaments. .1 ' ' |
Jilaa Anna , Gould , tbat ever tilscassed |
garnihelres , has a fad for hones. At Furlough
lodge , her brother's place In the Adirondack
mountain ! , she keeps a magnificent team
for her own driving , nnd BUS has , besides ,
seven ; saddle horsca there ml a stableful
of young horses , yet to bebroVen , for she
will doubtless establish a small sized stock
farm there , where there U so much room.
Her fad for horses date * from the day when
her father bought a little pony cart for her
self and her sister Helen nt Sataloga , years
ago , when her mother was living.
Miss Wlnnlo Davis has a fad , BO It Is said.
It Is for getting her photograph taken , She
lias been photographed BO often that si" has
grown to enjoy It , and several times a year
Eho poses. Tlio demand for her pictures la
vary great , as In the south she Is known nn
"tho Daughter ot Iho Confederacy , " and
north she has many friends. Mls Davis
has several hundred of her own photographs ,
She ls beautiful enough to have many more
taken.
Miss Julia Dent Grant , though not yet In
society , knows n great , deal about the eti
quette of Austria , England nnd America , nnd
speaks many language : ! . She now enjoys
learning them , and since the day when her
cultured mother insisted upon having Ger
man spoken as the language ct the house
hold , she has mastered several tongues.
In the Austrian court , when her father was
foreign minister , U was not an unusual thing
to hear Miss Grant speaking German ,
French , Italian and Spanish all In one
breath , then English again , without a sec
ond's hesitation In any'of the tongues.
Tha editor of the , Idler , after pondorlng
the question "How to i Court tha Advanced
Woman , " determined to ak these feminine
novelists to answer It. .
Their response has been prompt. George
Egerton , the author of "Keynotes , " boldly
advances the opinion that man i * inferior ,
that his superiority has always been purely
an economic one. She believes that the par
ticularly Intellectual woman can marry an
average- man of honorable character and no
overplus of brains with" h fair prospect ot
happiness. "Woman at her best , " she says ,
"will always bo attracted by manly quali
ties In a man , and If the average man Is
only prepared to glvo as well as take , to re-
allzo that the worran he marries has a con
science , opinions and feelings of her own ,
and to treat them with the same deferenca
ns ho would extend , say , to those of a male
chum , ho may safely risk courting her
and as much In the old way as possible. "
Mrs. Mannlngton Caffyn , the "Yellow As
ter" lady. Is not sure that the advanced
woman will submit ot all to bo courted ; she
rather thinks that the average man ought
to keep In mind the coming girl , for whom
the advanced woman Is only preparing the
way. The coming girl Is described by Mrs.
Caffyn as a sane and simple ruler over
men's hearts , a creature of tempered knowl
edge and btveet serenity , of pity , loving kind
ness and humor. Truly a charming young
lady for the average man to court. Sarah
Grand's answer Is short and to the point.
She declares that she has "very little to
say on the subject , the answer seems to mete
to bo such n. simple one. There Is only
ono way to court a wcman , and that is with
respect. So long ns a man and a woman
respect each other's Individuality neither
can have any just cause for complaint. "
What woman can do as a woman , In the i
full development of her femlnclty , Is not so i
w H known. Does she propose to copy
ths career of man , to b less a woman and
moro a man , or to cultivate as they have
never been cultivated the unknown ca
pacities of her sex , asks Charles Dudley
Warner In Harper's Magazine for Septem
ber. This Is the teal question underneath
all the educational movement. Perhaps she-
risnnot tell what she will do until she has
fully trained her peculiar powers by every
means of education now opening to her.
Perhaps the wise woman Is not eager to
take a man's duties before she has thoroughly
mastered her own. It Is a satire on hu-
inanity that every Ignorant man thinks hlm-
Eelf fit to govern his fellows. Are women
anxious to broaden this satirical condition ?
All the poets have always said that the
, ntblest creation is the very noble woman.- '
'Tiero | have baen enough of them for exam
pie Think what the world would be It
a majority i of the women moro nearly ap
preached the noble standard ot her sex.
A great deal of attention Is devoted by
the European gossips Just now to the pros
pective marriage of the two American helr-
'
osses , Mss ) Gould 'and Miss Pullman , but
neither of the young ladfps .has Justified the1
predictions of these' chitte/ers. M'ss Gould ,
by the 'way , has 'much disappointed the
S cat I'arls dressmakers , who had hoped to
have from her many 'orders ' for gorgeous
costumea. But she does not believe in very
rich and elaborate attlro for young unmar
ried women , and hef- clothes have been slm-
plo If pretty. Miss , Pullman has been even
moro than Mies Gould 'the subject of eager
-curiosity of those who "would like to divert' 1
American dollars Into thb pockets ot a possl-
blu Impecunious bridegroom of title.
John Strange WirUer' is not a man , as
most people know.But she thanks her hus
band , Mr. Arthur Standard of London , for
the assistance he liasf
given her on the
literary ! hillside. Of late Mr. Stannard has
been < cbllged to gtw up his own business
to manage the very lucratlvo magazine name.1
after his wife. "If my husband had not said
mj stories were good I could never have
continued them , " she. says. "My husband
and ItuBkln were my helpers , "
George Eliot , years OKO , thanked her hus
band , George Lewes , and her friend , Herbert
Spencer , for their criticisms , which assisted
her over the knotty points of novel planning.
And when. Just before her death , she learned
that Mr. Lewes had shielded her from the
adverse critics who were so plentiful with
blame when she first started out. she revered
his memory more than ever. To her second
husband , Mr. Cross , she said : "I would
never , without Mr. Lewes , have been a
writer of even a little merit ! "
A Vassar girl , not long ago , cramming ,
for her examinations , sent down an order to
the refectory for strong tea and cracked
ice. It was her freshman year , or she would
never have done It , a proper diet being one
of the important matters In that admirable
institution. At all girls' colleges the relation
of proper eatingto good work Is fully under
stood. At the Woman's college In Baltimore
a. glance at the food contracts for the coinIng -
Ing nine months , Is Interesting. It will take
eleven tons of beef , three and one-half of
mutton , two of pork , and four of poultry ,
to satisfy the healthy young appetites
of the 200 students In the meat
line alone. There are , besides , 3,600
dozens of eggs , two and a halt
tons of butter , five of sugar , and one and
a half ot crackers to be disposed of. Drain
and brawn should bewell nourished between
now and June with this supply.
Said an observing shoemaker recently : "It
Is a positive fact that women's feet are de
cidedly larger thin a few years ago. I lean
recall when a woman who asked for size
four In her shoes almost invariably apologized
In manner or words ; now fives are almost
the average size , and sixes are In great le-
mand. The physical len
culture craze Is respon
sible for .this. Young1 women -who tramp ,
play tennis , and now golf , simply cannot dote
It In narrow tight boots any longer. As teen
the French heel , only actresses and women
: who ape their modes wear them In UIB street
-any mor . The
really fashionable
women
use them still for dress shoes , but never forte
walking boots. "
"Why , oh , why , " sighs a suburban -wo "
man , ' "are the wlndqws ofcars made not teen
go np without the aid of two or three men ,
and sometimes not then ? Itwas a positive
pleasure the other lay to
( Bit In a etlfllng
Now York and -New Haven car at the
j Forty-
second street ' station and see two -of the
company's -windows
jt smashed by two men in
their efforts to r lso them , Of course , It
was itupld of them to pound the glass In
stead of the frames , ibut I could understand
and appreciate -their
indignation At the per
ennial total depravity ot car windows. "
Some of the simpler , and quieter summer
hotels In the Adirondack region are not the
least comfortable , though their furnishings
are primitive and their local waiters have- '
not metropolitan trajr Alt one of theip
quiet bouses a huslmqa , and wife , -who
stopping for a few ( jayf , on their way north ,
attracted by their pleasant manner the Ilk-
Ing of the waiter , * detailed at the table.
"Madame , llko a triif ' nerlcan , called for a
little more of sonjs .particularly nice pie ,
whereupon her husband'irebuked her Jocosely
In hlrf care for her ealth , "No , no , Mllly. "
he said , "you have , had quite enough pie
for your good. " , ' .
-'Never you mlnd „ hlm , Mllly , " said Eln - '
than , the -waiter , leaning over her chair , a-
perfect mass of ByYhpathy. " 'You kin her1
all thcr pie ther lshe ; ; 'H a hull one. "
FiutUoiviKote * .
Butterflies with wlngu onttprrnd In silver ? 1 c
A RELIABLE DENTIST.
Eleven Years' Exparience. - - - Seventh tear in Omaha ,
The Jttt'ucst iirnotlra In tlio city , ballt up by doing
Good Dental Work al Reasonable Prices. . 1
Dr. Uailoy lins pro van 10 Qtnnlm tlmt wlion ho ndvefei
tlsos toiloiinythttiff nt n , certain price , you nlwn.va flndfH
true upon consulting lilin tit his oR\cu. \ The day for oxen-bit *
nnt clmrjrus for duntnl service * luw ] msoil , the people must
have { jowl \vorK mi their tenth , but will not bo robbed by
Uioiloutlst who does it.
Tooth extracted without the slightest-nulii. IJmv * tooth
madu the same dtiy old OHM taken out. Gold crowns , 221C ,
$ ( ! to 88. All dotitnl work nt reasoniiblo prices and gunrnn *
toed RS represented.
DR. R. W. JBAILJEiY ,
Dfllco 3d Floor Fnxton. Bloclc , 10th and .TiirnnmSt
Entrance 10th Street.
and silver gilt liavo been designed for veil
ping
Tangerine , lemon topazo , malzo , amber
and bronze- are among the now shades.
New postal card racks of perforated sliver
are out. A receptacle for stamps Is at
tached.
The silk waist Is more festive than over.
Poppy red silk ar * effective , made ot ac
cordion pleated surah or crepe do chine.
Hugo puffed sleeves over which nre bands
llko tlioso seen In the portraits of the
Henry VIII. epoch are artistic nnd modish.
Now French Eiirtouts , to useful and desir
able during the Inevitable damp and stormy
days of autumn , are variously made of
Scotch heather cloth , English Melton , cheviot
and hunting twccd.
The French felt turbans , toques and round
hats now exhibited by fashlonablo Importers
are dyed In lovely shinies of color , In mauve ,
dove-gray , fawn , old-rose , pale nnd dark
greens , magenta , etc.
Corsages continue to bo very elaborately
trimmed and sleeves ore more voluminous
than ever. Velvet ribbon , fancy ribbons ,
gallon and chiffon are effectively used as
trimmings ,
Tlio present popularity of molrJ silks ,
bengallnes , failles , nnmires In fact , silks In
all makes i and of nil prices Is quite unpre
cedented In the annals of fashion , and the
popularity of the glace varieties is really
phenomenal.
pheiPC
Pearls
are foremost among gems. Seed
pearls are worked Into round brooches with
geometrical ornamentation. I.args colored
jewels i , are In great vogue and designs OM
all Intended to throw them Into great
prominence.
proiU'
Ulack ' and white decorations predominate
upon the whlto felt hats , whits being mora
lavishly ! employed than black. White birds ,
In spite of flourishing humane societies , nre
used by the thousand by fashionable milli
nenC , both here and abroad.
Capes promise to ba the most stylish of
outer ! garments for ceremonious occasions
while long ulsters , tight-fitting In the back ,
and d6uble-breasted In front , with Immense
roverS and sleeves , will be popular lor
ordinary wear.
ordlA
Among the , handsome fabrics now being
used for tailor costumes are funcy Oxford
BUltliiKs , boucle effects In French camel's
hair , Paris novelty goods , genuine Scotch
cheviots ' , , English sErgrs and diagonals , and
crepetl' cloths In winter qualities.
A fashion which , for clay wear at least ,
must !
termlnato
with the
warm weather Is
that of Introducing white alcoves In any
sown' ' the
waist and skirt of which show
touches of white. These sleeves , however,1
will bai
worn Indoors for a much
longer
time.
Black and white
, fabrics In combination. In
striped silks '
, shepherd's checks , plilded
suraha- and bengallnee , In rnolro and
brocade melanges for elegant toil.ts , In
dotted arniurcs , and In many other magpie
mixtures have , if possible. Increased their
popularity.
rviniiiiiiti > < itV.t.
Jlrs C. P. Huntington has
such
a pro
fusion of jewels that she might wear a new
parure each dav.
Mrnc. Caslmlr-Perler , the
wife of the
president 6f France , and her children
are en
thusiastic bicyclists.
Tha empress of China has -sent five ladles
tojho. : pourt of Derlln In order to learn Ger
man manners and etiquette.
The University of Rome recently conferred
the title of doctor
of laws
on Slgnora Te-ro-
slna Labrlola , a daughter of Prof. Hor.o- :
nyma.- <
0II
Mlra Kate Sanborn , who la not only hu
morous herself , but is the advocate mid dis
coverer of many otner humorous women , is Sa
grandniece of Daniel Webster.
Worth la "said to be the only dressmaker
living who refuses to alter your dress it It
docs not suit you. It the fit Is not perfec
tion he makes an entirely new costume.
Drowning teas antl Ibsen talks are now of
the past , and -everything Is "Americana. "
Mrs. Edward Lautcrbacli Is a devoted stu
dent ofAmerican history and everything
pertaining to America.
Tlio empress of Austria Is a great linguist ,
Her latest study Is Greek , which she now
speaks and writes fluently , although six
years ago she was Ignorant ot even the al
phabet of tlmt language.
Miss Eleanor Hewitt , .the oldest un
married daughter of ex-Mayor Hewitt , has
been roadmaster for several years at
wood. N. J. , where their country home Is
Miss Emma Bates , the republican nomi
nee for state superintendent of public In
struction In North Dakota , Is a native of
New York and a graduate ot Allegheny col
lege.
lege.When
When Lady Randolph Churchill was at
Bur harbor she wont off on ono fishing ex
cursion. Her ladyship Is something of an
angler , and every year she takes a trip to
the north ot Scotland during the salmon
flslilng season , and her "catches' " are some
thing wonderful.
Jlme. Yeer , one of the best known figures
In ths world of Parisian Journalism , is the
widow of a Journalist. When her husband
companion la a. great white poodle called
"the Doctor , " who Is an efficient pro
tector ,
Mrs. Loulso Chandler Maulton has a Lon
don liome a-t Weymouth street , Portland
Place , and she is accredited with being on *
of the half dozen women in London able to
create and hold a salon. Her pretty drawIng -
Ing room is filled with all sorts of literary
mementos , and at her Fridays there Is sure
' to be a collection ot living celebrities that
'it Is aalil Is .not possible to be found In any
other London parlor.
' . "It ' was a real trial * ' admits -woman
wh'o lias lately 1 > ecn to "Venice , "tosee lit
tle steamboats plying -about on the canals.
The picturesque gondola was there , too , l
"course , but when It comes to -choice be
tween the two , for comfort and celerity , one
, ha to choose the steam propelled boats.
That's what I deprecate , you know tlie
choice.
"An American , Mrs. Teresa Vlcle , lias re
ceived the decoration of the grand cordon of
the Chefekat , from the sultan of Turkey , In
recognition for her services to the Ottoman
empire , by the paper read before the Jtttmry
congress at the Columbian fair. The subject
of the paper was "Turkey and the Religions
pf Islam. " The decoration is very rare. It
is an enamel star act in 100 dimonfls.
SEVEN SHADES
'all rich , natural -colora , ara product * ! by tlie Jtn-
jWlal Hair JtcKenerator. The color * arc fuat anO
Valhalla , but will not taln the vciilp.
IMPERIAL
Hair REGENERATOR
rwilomr sray Jialr to Ha imtural eulor anil clwa
colsr and vitalityto linlr ilkf4 ! > > bk-acliluu
'Muxtaclut , l > ur < S. ryctrtttrit anil o'citutlio * nuy tut
Cblurtxl with It It I * pcrfcrlly clean. Hisnd Iw
tree boot : about IU
CIIBMICAI. aim CO.
* rt FIFTH -AVIJNCK. N. V , j
by Sherman * McCuimill. Jill DoJgt 81. . '
Ore alia. Nebruhka. J
INDOKSliD BY CONGRESS , .
Awarded World's Fair
Medal and Diploma
The Greatest Beautifying Agents Known
to the World.
Mmo. if. Ynlo who
, is the roiffnlnjr
beauty of trdav , lias tisod thcso rctnndo3 !
constantly for runny yctu-s. tind although Hourly -32 okl
she
Oay over 18. Her beauty is the marvel of the whole yours does not look ono
world. Uj
foits and imitations. Mmo. M. Yale's Itcmcdios careful of ojuutor-
secret formulas and nro compounded from her own
cannot bo
duplicated by tiny ono but hot-self.
OAUTION.
Do not lot your ilrujrgist talk out of
you these
romcdlca
something oho in their place. Da not believe him if ho by tf/tng to soil you
rvs good for Ihoro is nothiti" . : on earth thut has suy * sainotiiing else Is just
Mrno. Ynlo'jTSxcolbior ' ever or over will take the iilnoo of
Complexion
IJoinwlios. A
toed all who ttso them. Mine. Yale will perfect minplo.xinn Is mmran-
promptly fill all mail
orders sent to hor.
3PRIOE1
1'lmplcs , niack ITrnflg , and Sldti Dlet-nsea cured
M-llh Jlnie. i'nlu'8 Special l.atlon N'o. 1 nnd fzceisioriimo / Mm coipieET creon
Fin-clnl Ointment Nn , 3 , sunrantfcd price.
Jl.oo cncli.
I !
llnea
conrai ! > or ,
| kcn > s tlio kln smooth
[ Kcesor ; ! skin W. and lovely , J'llce Jl.OO.
Guaranteed la remove nrlnkleM and Exc6sior ; Hoiifl
every ffliiicnor
tr.ico of n-c. 1'xlCB tl.M nnd X.Q- ) .
Mnlis iho Imnda Boft. Illnliltd
Eicesior . } -n-liltd and beauti
ful. Price tl.M.
GuarniUeetl IT remove rtnllo rncBs , moth
IHI ) ch ( > M n n < 1 nil skin blcm IB h PS , GI vrs a fioie o d M
natural complexion of mnrvelnus boautj * .
I'rlce J2.W per Ijottlo ; six for * 3.0 : > . JJemovcs nnrt deBtit > y ' forever males and
wartB. I'rlce 53.00.- -
Eiceuior Holr-w.
Tuina Kmy lialr buck to Ha nwn natural Era-iron am Eyo-Bfoif Grower
color without ' .
' ds'c. The ilrat njifl only rem
edy ifr'the history of elH'nilflr > ' ImrAvn to flj Mnlcpn the Inslit-n < crow tlilrlc .nnil IPnc. tin
thin.SIOII.H hair fulling In from 21 hours to vyr-browH liixurlunc nnd slinpebv pticiiKili-
ono weekj crpati3 a hixurhmt flrawth. I'rico ra iiinl lionutlllca the cyca ; guaranteed .
1'rlca $2. per liottle ; $5.00 for tlia-c bottlea. I'rlce Jl.OO. pure.
Excelsior BUSI Food.
OimrnnUwl ( o develope n tientitlfiil tiust nnd
neck ; Klvcs llrnmcHS to the llesli an * ] rrontes Oiilllvatoa nnturnl rn.ijcli elo. n wonJctful
a natural condition ot plinnivicss. I'rlce' ; i.W skill tonic. 1'ilcc tl.OU | > cr Ijuttlr.
unit { 3.00.
Gieoi scon ! e. A. ifoie's Eiiceisior Fertilizer- ' -
Mine. Ynlc's wonderful mnwly for reimvlns Curca CDnstlpatlon. IVIco J1.10. ' 'UifJIlJ ' I1
nml OrsttoymB Hie wnwth ot gci ] < rrioii.i lialr ' " '
taken tmt. tH'i- minutes to use : Ox-s nil liuit , ior Blood Tone
Irrliiilo or evrn make the skin red ; icmoves
every t" > ee In one application. Price KM.
PurlfiM the lilCHwI. acts the ,
nn liver kldnryi
LO FrecKifl end FrecKiS. ] and . builds up the system. I'rlc 11.00 1 > ei
Ix.ttlc ; alx lot15.00. .
. It. Vnlc'H wonderful l > a FrecMa Is
knjwm tn be the otiljin' Tor treMfa. In
from 3 < lnys tj < mc w < x'tc nfter Its first np-
pllcatton every fcocltlo Will illwppfar md MITU > . M. Yale's wonderful euro for nil klndi
tlio complexion become us clear ns crystnl. nt fi-innlc wcnkntsK. I'rico Jl.CO bottle
1'rlct'1 * 1. U PIT btttti' . BK for S.-i- per ;
SOLD BY DBUG-G-ISTS.
Full line carrioil by Kiihti & Co. , 1BH tind Dou lna streets , Mcrcliant & Vlclicrs , 10th
and HowurJ. Klnslcr Drug Co. , Ilith and RirnumV. . J. Huhc .31th ana Parnitirl ,
S. Uavis. Couuiil Wutfs , and bvuil druggists. At irbolcsalo by K. E. Isruce & Oo , ttua
Uichanlson Drug Company , Omulia.
Mull orders uoJ con-osiicinounco may b3 sentto Mme Yule's head quarters
MMB , M. YALBL ,
TEMPLE OF BEAUTY
,
SEARLES &
SEARLES
,
SPECIALISTS ,
mATME.IT BIT MAIL ctiSJU ) : AUDI fXii
Catarrh , all Dlso3s33 of the Nosa.
Throat , GhostStomach , Livor. Blaod
Skin nnd Kldnoy Disoasoa , Uo3
Manhood and ALL PRIVATE DIS
EASES OF MSN.
Call m or addrosa
fir oWnCS & Qnirhe 1410KAKSAM ST
m. oCdllSS
. , o.lAH.V. Mill.
Dr. E. C. Weil's II erv o and Brain Trtaliient
,
l/jt ] ncuuta " only , to rare IVwtlr 11uro < ir ; I.u ot
llruln etui J-"err Porer ; T.c2tMuliG4Mlvnl-kue ; : ;
itltslx Ixntcs' Evil Dreamt : I-Hcfc of ilnuflrtuBct ;
Ncrrousuewy I.a stlB < lu ; nil Drains ; Js.iot I'trynr
nt tbt > O a riUro Origin In ellli&r i , eau i1 tj
irTfT-ierUojiYoiihul ; ( Jlrreir * , or Jiosilvt : ) Utont
Tolueco. Ojilum or l.liixir , vhlrn mnii lend to
orOojimnnptlnn. . lu iiitr and Down. 11 ? null.
ft a bnx ; 0 Jor f5 : ivilfi wrltlm iruumnteb to euro nt
Ttlnnd inonerWIST'RCOOOIIHVK ' . A curtain
1YJ.ocj.ict : Oiaxli , born Threat. I'Joniftnt totole
Imnll Ol'corjtlnaC'i - . ; fiM-Sin. NIB. uow23 < - . !
- vritaniKi ;
-itaniKi only b/
Goodman Ortiz Co. , Dinah * . _ .
A NEW LINK' CUFF
Purely
Vegetable ,
Prepared from the original foruinla pr * > '
served in tlin Archives of tbfi Holy LMifl. hav
ing tin authentic liUlary dating back GOO yoara
A POSITIVE CURE
far all Stomach , Kidney'dh'd Bowel
troubles , cSpccjilly
OHEONIC
Pzloa 60 cents. Bold by all a'rucrrlsU ,
the Franciscan Remedy Co. ,
134 VAN BUBElf ST. , OTUCAbO/IIX.
. for Circular ami Illustrated Calendar.
at ,
.
Is the otilj
SPECIALIST
PRIVATE , .DISEASES
anaDEBIl.il/E5nT / '
MEN ONLY *
Women Excluded.
18 year * vxperltnc *
Circular ! frae.
I 4Ui nna F.-jnam SU. r
EXACT SIZE PERFECTS
THE MERCANTILE * . IS THE FAVORITE TEN CEHP CIGAR ,
ale bj' till First Class Doilora. Manufactured by tno
P. K. JUC1J MERCANTILE CIGAft CO. ,
Factory No. OI .BU > Lou.tacM .