THE OMAHA DAILY T5RE KIMS'DAY , SRPTEMJ3KII 23 , ISO * Jl
TRUMPET OF DAME GRDXDY
Largo BtnfaotB of Shining Hair the Latest
Mode in Hair Brcsilag.
WAVES , CRIMPS AND BANGS NOT IK IT
Wonderful Increase In the Number ot College -
lego { llrlt Alrrnil23OOO llow Our
Wealthiest Women Bhop Wurdi
for Wonmu's Kur.
Not many days ago a woman walked Into
Iho dining room of a fashionable hotel at
Narrocansctt Pier. Every one turned to
Icok at her. First , they remarked that she
was beautiful ; next , that she wns well
Brtomcd , and the latter adjective was given
mainly because of the simple shining coiffure
cho uorc.
It was Ualtlmoro's famous beauty , Mra.
JCESG Tyson.
Tlie parting In her hair came fully across
the head , the glossy hair wag rolled away
from the ears nnd back to the low knot at
the nape of her neck , without a ripple or an
undulation. Xot a stray hair floated over
the forehead. It was as shining and precise
as tlio coiffure of a china doll.
This effect , obtained by frequent and con
tinuous brushing , and a liberal use ot uater ,
la Its building up , la only the perfection ot
n ctyle copied by most of the smart women
ot the fashionable resorts of the year.
It Is the beginning ot the end of orna
mented locks. No waves , no crimps , no
bangs for this winter Is the verdict of
several coiffeurs whom I Interviewed on the
Bubject ,
Of course , diplomatic women will secure
a. compromise between the two extremes of
Ignoring beauty for style , or vlco versa.
Thn coiffeur said :
"The primary step Is to have a parting
btoad and white down the center , after this
the variations are arranged to suit the con
tour of the face. If a woman can adopt tliu
EOvero style there Is nothing more correct.
If the forehead is excessively high the hair
should be brushed vigorously away from the
parting , and then loosely dropped do n
frcm It ; the tendrils that nature nnd not
scissors provide , loosely curled to soften UIH
brow. This style will suit her face qultu
well. "
"Hut how about these annoying side locks
Milch are the heritage of a past style ? "
"Ah ! the other ultra style arranges for
them ; -when the hair has' ' been dropped ut
the side another parting should be made
ari-uiid the head , just behind the cars. All
the hair thrown forward by this should be
fathered and rolled , the rolling commencing
at the cars and extending upward. This
fthculd be carried a little over the cars , then
up to the middle of the head , where the
center parting ends. There It should ba
held loosely with the hands while tt la con
fined with tortoise shell side combs , Thla
forma the neatest and most becoming frame
lor n slender face.
"Tho hnlr from th roll with that from
the back Is confined at the tame plate ,
.Micro the parting ends ; then It Is divided
Into four parts , each one twisted tightly n-jd
All wound around Into a large knot that ex
tends down to the nape of the neck. After
the hair is gotten Into very shining condi
tion from continuous brushing the cells
glUtcn and glitter like the cells of a snalic , "
So rapid and marked Is this movement
toward straight coiffures that crimped locki
bfgln to appear as bad form as dyed hair.
i'uo years ago shell Bide combs came In
nnd tllon went out , but the coming winter
promises to see them In vogue again. Their
Introduction was for ornament , their reap
pearance for necessity how else shall we
keep short locks In place ?
High Spanish combs owned by great-
giandmothers are being carefully mended
* nd are worn with much sentiment by their I
descendants. It la useless to attempt th-'so
combs with hat or bonnet , but for house
and evening wear they are exquisite. At a
recent colonial tea the hostess wore the
incst beautiful ono I over saw , handed dovui
through her family from 1'rlscllla Alden.
The comb Is the only style of metal per
mitted In the hair. Daggers , swords , gold
pins , all will bo considered bad form.
Aa to the building of the- head dress for
Social functions , the Psyche knot perched
At the top of the head remains the favorite
rnodo ; Bomo will adopt three puffs , the cen
ter one higher than the other , but 'behind
Cither style should be placed the ubiquitous
Spanish comb. The hair must not be
Waved at the back , but ctrrled up tightly to
the knot , sagging at the back being con
sidered artistically Inelegant.
That the low Langtry cell worn over the
collar Is coming back there is no question.
Jt Is the rage in England , and while we
Americans never go so far as to copy the
English woman's coiffures , for they are
always abominable , this part ot It the
Langtry knot Is picked up very quickly.
The ever popular figure S will be worn very
low , and a style of plaiting the hair In or
dinary fashion and then reversing It over the
head to the parting and caught there by
plus Is qulto general.
lOlcgant simplicity in hair dressing does
not signify the less trouble. Our grand-
mothers' ndvlco cf 100 stroke ? on rising and I
100 strokes on retiring , to bo dealt by the ,
brush , Is come back to us , and proves the
only way to gtvo the locks that sleek ,
glossy look so much , to bo desired ,
The "brightening up , " as the French term
it , IB managed by a upon go or light brush
saturated -with three-fourths of peroxide of {
hydrogen to one-fouith of ammonia , passed 1
over the hair About twice In four weeks.
This gives the red , live- tinge that does not (
appear artificial. It Is best not to do it
oftener than this , for frequent application
turns the hair yellow.
Within a period of thirty days the -women's
colleges that are dotted all over the United
States will have reopened. This year there
will bo more pupils than ever. It- will be
the same as It has L'Ocn every year since
women's ' colleges and the higher educatipn
Ol women generally have become so promi
nent. This steady rush of young women
lo study seems Irresistible. Nothing stops
It costs more or less for a girl to go to
college , just as the girl Is moro or less
economical. She can go lo Vassar for } 700
a year , that Is , If she will ba moderately
careful , writes a Doston correspondent ot
the New York Advertiser. If , however , she
Is careless , or even only extravagant , she
can spend , without clashing with the col
lege authorities , $2,000 or 12,600. At Vassar
the girls live In great dormitories. Each
shares a room , sometimes with one , some :
times with two companions. Most ot the
rooms have cluing rooms adjoining. Tlio
plain , ncressary furniture Is provided by
the college , but that Is only the skeleton
upon which individual taoto hangs all the
pretty things which make these rooms so
attractive. The rules are pretty strict at
Vassar.
There Is somewhat moro f rood o in at
Wtllesley. There the girls live in a col
lection of dormitory buildings , and on ac
count of the smallness of tlie town , which
takes Its name urn ! life from the college ,
perhaps , are permitted moro freedom than
it Vussnr. Here a clever girl may be able
to get along on JCOO a. year.
Smith college la tlio only real women's
"college" In this country. It Is real In the
point of absolute freedom ot Ita students.
There the girls do exactly as they like.
They live In boarding houses in the town
of Northampton or In hotels or in "halls"
lUnched to the college. They come anil
jo exactly as any student of Yale or liar-
rnrd. Aa the cost of living at Smith It
intlrcly separate from that ot tuition , it It
tlcar that here more than anywhere eUc
personal economy- will count.
Dryn Mawr , the famous college situated
t the beautiful suburb of the same name
not far trom Philadelphia , has marc of IB
homo feature about it than uny of Its equal Is
In scholarly rank. In fact , It is' more like
a great boarding homo than like a college
It Is. most aristocratic and expensive , and i
.elrl could hardly go through there on Icsi
than JSOO A year.
Mount Holjrokc , ilUaled In the town ot
South Hartley , In Massachusetts , la perhapi
the , oldest ot the -women's colleges as uuch
H la operated on a much simpler and h.sa :
txp uslv Elan than tu four mentions
ftbore , but likewise falls toll ml them In
scholarly rank From ? 100 to } M n year
should be amply nuinclcnt to carry n RSrl
through.
Them nrc 167 colleges In the country ex-
cluMvoly tor women and thejr have 23,000
students. These colleges are divided Into
two classes , First , those that ate organ
ized on the usual plan ot the arts collage ,
and second , those that give n com pi ate
c our BO ot Instruction , beginning with tha
very elementary branches. Thro are fifteen
of the former and 102 ot the latter , Tha
fifteen nro all well known , some ol them
famous. They are Vaswr , at I'oughkcepsljj
Uarnard. Hulgors Female college , at New
York city , Wells college , at Aurora ;
nimlm college , IiiKham university , at Lo
Hey , N. Y. : Mills' college , In California ;
Women's collopc , of Baltimore ; Clev.land
College for Women , In Ohio ; Iltyn Mav > r
unhcrsltr , In Pennsylvania ; Smith college ,
at Northampton , Mass. ; Wellcsley , Massa
chusetts ; Massachusetts Society for Collegiate
Instruction of Women , and Mount Hotyokc
stmilnary and college , In Massachusetts , and
Evtlyn college , i" New Jersey. The total
tnin.l er of students In the Institutions named
Is about 3,500. Generally sp8allni the
ftutlents of our f-tnalo colleges ate residents
of small towns , anil often the daughters ot
fanners , The city girls form but a small
proportion , us the private academics are
generally preferred by these bred In cities ,
The American college \\oman Is the daughter
of the farm , perhaps the Ullage store-
Kcipcr's only girl , ami sometimes tlie pride
and Joy ot some laboring man's household.
They are women with a purpose. Women
who find mora Interest In studying Calculus
than In studying the fashion plate , That Is ,
when they go to college they leitrn to look
to the fashions while there. Their college
education completed they are lha women
who enter tlio professional schools and take
thj prizes nnd honors from the men.
Almost $100,000 is yearly given to male
college students In prizes , scholarships , etc.
A little over 100,000 Is the amount given to
female students.
Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbllt very rarely
"shops" in America. She buys nearly every
thing In Europe In the way of dresses and
Mile underclothing and bonnet ! ) . Her simple
belongings of dress are bought hero at a
Broadway store by her maid , n pretty youns
woman of experience In buying , says a
Writer on the Now York Sun. The articles
are almost Invariably paid for at once , so
that the tradesman , though he may wonder
at the large purchase made by the simply
dressed young woman , does not know that
ho has been supplying ths wife of one ot the
richest men In America with fans , handker
chiefs and ribbons.
Mrs. George Gould imports many of her
gowns , but still buys a great many in
An trlca. She Is very sensitive about the
charge of spending her money abroad.
Sometimes , with her four little children by
her side , she drives to the down-town shops ,
getting out abng Fourteenth street and com
ing up town slowly , stopping at all the
large stores until she finds what she wants.
Her purchases nre usually "charged" and
she makes a note ot the amount.
Mrs. Frederick Vanderbllt buys a great
deal In person whenever she Is In this
country , whlcli , however , is not for a great
part of the ycnr. She purchases Christmas
gifts for her society of King's Daughters at
Newport , and she personally buys presents
for the servants of her homo , just as Mrs ,
Whitney did.
When Mrs. Levl P. Morton goes shopping
ohe takes all her daughters ulth her. The
purchases made for them Includes shoes , of
Nvblch they buy a great many , presumably
fo" their country rambles nt Ullorslle , and
heavy gloves , of which they also buy many ,
and great quantities of material for plain
gowns. Mrs. Morton has a great deal of
hsr daughters' dressmaking either done at
homo or made to order from her own
mnlerlals. The young ladles laugh a great
deal , reem qulto free from vanity , consider
ing how pretty they are , and are not critical
as to shades and materials.
When the Rockefeller ladles go shopping
they are the most unassuming women In the
stores. They buy very few gowns , but they
get many sets of underwear , presumably for
the poor women of their hospital work , and
they buy much flannel and muslin. Their
purchases never foot up to great bills , and
they Invariably pay cash , They trade only
at certain stores and always go in a carriage ,
usually a tightly closed one. No one sus
pects Miss Altoto be the richest girl In
Airerlea , nor her sister to be , In addition to
her great wealth , one of tha finest musicians
In the world among amateurs.
Mrs. John Jacob Astor Is never -what can
ba called an "unassuming" woman. She is
too pretty for that. She- dresses quietly , but
so well that pop'.o notice her ; and , as she
runs an account at the leading dry goods
stores , the clerks know her , and quietly pass
along the word that hereis the richest young
matron In the world. Mrs. Astor buys her
own child's dresses and the little things of
the nursery. She also- purchases everything
of value In the house , Including her own table
linen and the glass and dishes , which , some
how , always need replenishing in a million
aire's house. She nits from counter to coun
ter , Invariably attracting attention , but her
self apparently unconscious of It. Her maid
also buys for her when she Is too busy to
take the time for a shopping tour.
Mrs. Willie K. Vanderbllt used to be the
terror of the shopkeepers bscauee she had a
penchant for having the whole store to her
self. "Close- the doors ! " "Send these people
out ! " she would say Imperiously. Her dls
like to mingling with everybody wna duo to
the fact that her face had become well known
and crowds of Ill-bred people would gathe
around to see what she would buy. After a
whllo she refused to go shopping- ail am
, sent eltliar a friend , a secretary or a maid to
execute her commissions.
It is not supposed that Miss Helen Gould ,
that most Independent of millionairesses , ever
goes shopping herself , yet , if the truth were
known , she can be seen at least one day In
the week In the large shops buying things for
the poor. The little cripples of Woody Crest
an dressed In the clothing selected by her-
self , nnd the girls of her advanced training
school for the teaching of floriculture wear
the dresses bought by her. Miss Gould buys
for her own wear the most expensive clothing ,
but she chooses dark colors , and is particular
only about tha fit. She shops either In a
hired cab or a closed carriage of her own ,
Nobody knows It is she , as the pictures la-
beled "Miss Helen Gould" do not resemble
her in tie ) least. She has not been photo-
graph id for fourteen years since she was a
child.
Mrs. William Aster's dressmaker does the
shopping for that wealthy lady. She knows
what color now always , black her patron
desires , and she gets the best there Is. Mrs.
Astor never buys jewels now , as she has
more than enough to leave heirlooms to all
her children and their children besides. Mr.
Astor always showered them upon his wife.
Mrs. Aster's gowns are for the most part
bought abroad. But now she- gets them In
this country during mldseason , n Worth re
fuses to make dress's more than far three
months ahead. "Fashions change so now
that this fall's styles will be positively
Gothic by winter , " he says to these who want
him to make them for a year , or to last until
spring.
Mrs. Ward McAllister rarely goes shopping.
Her daughter Louise' does ths family buying ,
assisted by her father , theeverwise Ward.
Mrs , McAllister , about whom so little Is
known. Is something of an Invalid , with a
fancy for remaining Indoors and reading.
There are winters when she does not go out
at all. She dresses fairly well In simple
house gowns , but wears , neither many jewels
nor elaborate creations of dress at any time.
Whin she goes out , It Is always in the open
carriage co often seen standing In front of ,
Mr. McAllister's door.
When Mrs. Orover Cleveland goes shopping
she selects a rainy day. Then she goes alone ,
driving to the chop In a closed carriage and
ordering htr purchases sent home. The- last
time she went , shopping was just before she
went to Gray Gables for the summer. Her
principal purchases were little summer
dresses for the children and shade hats for
herself. To the cleik who watted upon her
she made one or two very pointed remarks
about allowing her shopping to become public
property. The clirk felt hurt and told the
proprietor , who assured Mrs. Cleveland that
none should know what she bought. Dut the
reporter was there.
When shopkeepers know they are coming
small private rooms are- reserved for tbe
whoa ol millionaires , -who buy In an hour at
, much as ordinary folk buy In a rear ; and
a several clerks are detailed to wait upon the
ladles whoso time Is BO precious to roclety ,
Very often appointments are made by maids ,
and the lady goes when her secretary tells
her there U a time appointed. That la the
. way several ot New York'a tlme-pri ed mil
lionaire women manage. However It may be
arranged , the ahopkeefen ar glad to ae
thrm I .in-3 a ) > "THy thai fcful that rod slrablo
pitr | ; IB ilo not carr > all their spending money
across the water.
While wo have an almost Incessant com
plaint ot the servant girl , ot her shortcom
ings in general and In particular , wo hear
little about the housekeeper's obligation tent
nt least provide her with a few moro com
fort * and attractions than she has enjoyed.
While the scientists are contending over
the problem of whether man Is greater than
hla environment , says the New York Herald ,
wo would do well .to assume that
woman la not , and that a room 10 arranged
and equipped that It will give a most Im
pressive object lesson In neatness and order
Is a surer method ot instruction than all the
reprimands and lectures which wo are wont
to bestow upon the very fallible- maid of
Erin or other immigrant servitors.
It Is an unaccountable phase of the vaiinlcd
"sisterhood ot woman" that In many bonus
of plenty , or oven moderate luxury , the serv
ants' quarters are no more attractive or
comfortable than bare white walls and small
Iron cots can make them.
Thorp Is a better way than this , for cno
woman at least , who has tried It , Uoeps r-or
servants so long though of moderate1 means
that her neighbors believe she has some
occult power over them. This hidden power
Is , however , nothing greater or loss ti'an '
mere kindness consideration lor the pri
mary needs of those dependent fello'v crec-
tures who , It subservient , arc also human.
Believing it sanitary to have tiie n.ills of
the servants' room whlteuu&hcd eveiy
spring , she overcomes the chilling effect by
stirring a email portion ot aniline iljelng
powder In the mixed lime to color It , for the
maid dearly loves color. Sonvjtlmos she
puts In red powder till the wash Is a bril
liant pink or ochre , making It pale yellow ,
or their favorite apple green.
Large lithographs of country scenes were
framed In oak frames. A small outlay In
cluded a splasher , cretonne covering for
cushions In the large rocker , and scilm cur
tains Inside the green Teller shades. Tlitro
were washable mats and n pin cushion on
the bureau , and a bright carpet riiir. beside
each single- bed , and a cupboard put In for
clothes.
Though a Protestant , she recognized needs
other than her own , and hung up a simple
crucifix over an engraved Madonna ; and
these thoughtful though Inexpensive evi
dences of her care for her servants have al
ways bsen rewarded by faithful st-rvlce nnd
personal attachment.
One of the fads of this season In England
has not been adopted here. This Is the
walking tour. Small parties of ladles , prop
erly chaperoned , have been walking through
some ot the most beautiful portions of rural
England , and as they have not left tie ! legion
of comfortable inns , they have enjoyed tliflr
Journeys very much. Detore starling , a
route is fixed upon by the aid of the road
map , and the Innkeepers are communicated
with In advance.
I''tini1 ! < > ) i T1H.
Black ostrich boas will be nuioh more In
favor than ever for the deml-salson.
A new moire ribbon with a thin lafleta
reverse , plain nnd shot , Is very prnry. _
Knickerbocker tweed Is a loosely woven
but very firm stuff that is fleclwd v.lth
color.
The Trouvllle Is a new Enils.i ; ! ! cloth wlh !
stripes and shaggy oblong dots between
the lines.
Entlro costumes will this -winter bo made
of Persian hmb and other varieties of fur.
Dluo and green and blue and iPl'otrope '
are two of the fashionable combinations
just now.
Alpine checks have a complication of bars
and lines which are like plaids In Ihrlr In-
terlaclngs.
Hand painted Dresden china buttons look
particularly well on Louis XV suits with
a stock and lace jabot.
Red currants are being used for dress
trimmings for evening wecr , and make a
most brilliant trimming.
Among the new materials of the feacon
Is the shot Chine grcnaJlnc , utuallr on a
dark ground , and made up over shot glace.
Gray serge of the black and white mixture
wears well and Is a welcome change from
the blue and black serges so long worn.
In day dresses broad horizontal stripes
are being treated very successfully. They
are cut BO as to form chevrons down the
front.
Ths enormous collars In the various kinds
of heavy lace are very stylish , but need to
be worn with very large sleeves to really
look well.
All the new French skirts are made with
an opening on either side ot the front but
toned with flags. This Is especially becom
ing to stout figures.
The embroidered Cairo zouaves and belts
are very pretty to wear with different
bodices and create quite a change in the
effect of a plain gown.
Chlno atrlpeb in the center of corded
grounds have a pretty effect , and the white
lace designs over satin and the reversible
velvet and satin ribbons are particularly
pretty.
The very newest watches are of gold nnd
steel , secured on the left revers of the corsage -
sago by a little golden rosette a pretty
fashion and quaint. It neither very com
venlent nor safe.
The use of silk and especially of taffetas
Is much remarked this season. There is a
positive rush after the check silks. The
striped silks are also popular. All small
designs , whatever the fabric , are In demand
this season ,
The autumn and winter Jackets shown In
the shops are cut long with very full backs
and fitted closely to the figure with coat
collars and large rovers. The materials are
cheviot , covert cloth , diagonals , kersey cloth
and chinchilla beaver.
A short double-breasted coat of blue cloth
cut oft at the waist , and fitting the figure
closely at the back , having a border ot chin
chllla nil around and wide gantlet cuff
and rovers of the fur , Is one of the stylish
coats prepared for early fall wear ,
Femlnlno Holes.
Miss Frances E. WUlard has been granted
the degree of doctor of laws by the Ohio
Wesleyan university.
MlM Ansell , who was recently married to
Mr. J. M. IJarrle , nursed the famous novelist
through his recent Illness.
The queen of Saxony maintains three
physicians whose sole duty is to attend the
ailments of the suffering poor.
In Portugal a married woman may not
publish her literary work without her hus
band's consent , which should bo unjustly
withhold , she may supply the place ot by a
judge's authorization ,
Ladles seldom riseIn Spain to receive a
male visitor and they rarely accompany him
to the door. For a Spaniard to give a
lady even his wife his arm while out
walking Is looked upon as n violation of
propriety.
Miss Ilraddon's new purchase in the heart
of the New Forest comprises a comfortable
residence of moderate size , pretty grounds
and gardener's cottage In all extending to
about six acres. The woodland scenery In
the nclghborhcod Is scarcely equaled in the
country.
In Japan the shopkeepers nnd tradespeople
of all kinds offer their customers tea and
cake before they show goods or attempt any
salts ; that Is , all did formerly , and most do
now ; ttnno ot the shops retain many good
customers by their delicious , tempting sweets
and tea.
The Persian woman tloea not know , the
use of the knife and fork , or , If she does ,
scorns to make use of them. All her food
la spread upon the floor and eaten with the
flpgera , a practlci which , In spite of numer
ous ablutions , still leaves the hands of the
fair one a trine greasy. She cats frequently ,
more for distraction than from bunger , and
devours fruit , sweetmeats and pastry be
tween , meals , washing them down with
copious draughts of sherbet. Altogether the
fair Persian would seem to lead a-particularly
easy and aimless existence ,
Our Australian friends have hit on a pretty
devlca as a substitute for the practlco of
throwing rice over a bridal pair as they
leave the church or start for their honey
moon. At a wedding In Sydney the guests
showered rose leavea over the- happy coupla
when they took their departure for the
wedding tour until tbe bride waa literally
covered with tha loiy petals aa the sat In
the carriage. This Is a much , more poetic
way of symbolizing one's desire that tba
union may be prospcroui and happy than
the more Irritating shower of rice that
scratches tbe akin , ruffles the temper , and
possibly lodge * In tha eyes of the groom and
bride.
RDJSIA AND IIHL PEASANTS
Iimumer&blo Petty EtBlrigJfonB Placed TTpou
ITir Army of-Pingnerp ,
l tf
_
THCOVEHNMENT ifl 7JJLL CONTROL
I'crin Innloii Mu l Ho Askcj'to lluy or Sell ,
to Hunt n > llougp , tu Tithe n Trip
mill tu Ito l
( Copyrighted , 1691 , by Irving Syndicate. )
Various reasons have been assigned by
Husslanwriters tor the unsatisfactory ccoti-
nomlc condition ot the Russian peasant
farmer. One party maintains tliat It Is
mainly due to tlio prtmltlvo system ot com
munal land tenure , which prevails In Russia ,
and that the first thing to bo done Is to nbollsli
that system and transform the peasants Into
Independent farmers owning their lands In
soveralty. Another party asserts that the
form ot land tenure has nothing to do with
the peasant's ' Impoverishment , that the root
ot the ovll Is to be found in a primitive
method of cultivating- land , rather than
in a primitive method of holdingor dis
tributing It , and that the best way to Im
prove the moujlk's economic condition Is to
furnish him -with modern agricultural Imple
ments nml better seed and show him how to
Increase the product of his land by means
of fertilization and greater Intensity ot cul
ture. A third party contends that neither In
dividual ownership nor better methods ot
cultivation will give prosperity to the peas
ant unlsss ho can bo freed from the oppres
sion of locnl usurers and speculators ( "fists"
and "commune-eaters" ) have reduced
him to a state of economic slavery and who
noiv "squeeze" him In his time ot need , and
unjustly appropriate a large part of his earn
ings.
FUNDAMENTAL DEFECTS.
Each ot thsso explanations Is supported
by facts , and each of them , doubtless , con
tains an clement of truth , but It does not
seem to be uortli while to subject them
to critical examination , for tlio reason that ,
from any point of view , they are not funda
mental. Under them and back of them
lie causes of much greater efficiency and
explanations that are far more reasonable
and convincing. If the peasant were free
to plan and regulate his own life he would
thrive and prosper , even under a communal
form of land tenure. If he were properly
educated and Informed ho would sco for
himself the defects In his present system
f agriculture- , and take suitable steps to
emedy them. Finally , If ho were both free
nd educated , he would not be long In
mawclpatlng himself from the control of
surjrs and speculators.
Every one , therefore , ot the reasons above
.sslgned for popular Impoverishment pre-
upposes either a lack of fraedom or n lack
if knowledge , and It Is to these deficiencies ,
other than to their proximate results , that
desire to call attention. The unsatlsfac-
ory economic condition ot the Russian pjople
s mainly attributable , It seems to me , to
.wo causes , namely , (1) ( ) over-regulation , re-
itralnt , and Interference ton'the part of the
overnment , and , (21 ( Ignorance , dlscourags-
ment and a sort o ap"tth'eilc hopelessness
the part of the goveHicuT
TOO MANY BO ES.
The Russian people In general , and the
easants In particular , ; have always bcn
: rcated by the Bovernm htf as If they were
gnorant , Irresponsible , and , rather feeble
minded children , who Bro , ncapable ot In-
'ependcnt action and rational self-control ,
.nd who must , therefore , bo subjected to a
Igld system of aclmlnlstriUf $ protection and
iuardlanshlp. The theory fpon which the
overnment proceeds , or Begins to proceed ,
: s that the citizen not only IB Incompetent
o take part In the management of the affairs
'
it his own household.'yahd1 , that , from the
its weary gray head Is anally lam under the
iod , he must be gulded. trccled. Instructed ,
'estralnecl ' , regulated , repressed , fenced In ,
! enced out , braced vp , kept down and made
0 do generally wliut somebody else thinks
is best for him.
The natural outcome of this paternal
heory of government Is , of course , stag-
latlon , apathy and the complete paralysis
f Individual enterprise. It Is a well set-
led principle of Intellectual growth and
'svelopment that faculties Improve In pro-
_ ortlon as tlicy are exercised , and that the
more and more successful adaptation of
means to ends , which Is the very essence
f progress , depends largely , If not wholly ,
upon the power of making a free and Intelli
gent choice between alternative courses of
action. If you control and regulate every
act of a man's life and repress every at-
empt that ho makes , to adapt means to
ends In accordance with his own observa-
lon nnd Judgment , you not only check the
jrowth of his Intellectual faculties , but you
virtually kill the spirit 'bt enterprise upon
which his progress depends and turn him
Into a mera working machine. You may ,
by your system of rigid control , prevent him
from making mistakes that he would perhaps
make If left alone ; but , on the other hand ,
you compel him to bear the burden of all
the blunders that you yourself make In this
field , owing to your unfamlllarlty with It
and you deprive Wm of the advantages that
he might derive from successful experiments
of his o\yn.
The case of the Husslan peasant Is even
harder than that here assumed , for the rea
son that he has twenty or thirty guardians
Instead of one. The directions ot a single
guardian may bo consistent , one with an
other , and may have a certain definite unity
of plan ; but orders Issued by twenty or
thirty" different authorities are likely to be
as hetercgeneous and conflicting as to make
obedience to them all disastrous , If not ab
solutely Impossible.
That obedience to the orders of his multl
fartous "bosses" has b-en disastrous to the
Russian peasant appears with sufficient clear
ness from the fact that ever since he ceased
to be a. pert and became nominally a citizen
his history has been a record of Increasing
subjection to administrative authority on
the one hand , and of constantly decreasing
self-reliance , enterprise and prosperity on the
other , until , at last , lie has become a living
illustration of his own proverb , that "a chlir
with seven nurses always grows up crooked. '
BURDENSOME RESTRICTIONS.
There are at the present time no fenc
than twenty-five different local officials wh
have something to say In regard to the man
ner In which the Russian peasant shall live
conduct himself and manage his business
and without permission from ono or more o :
them ho can hardly take any Important ete.
to improve his own condition or promoti
the welfare of his neighbors. If , for ex
ample , ho wishes to go to the * ntarest provin
cial town in search ot inoJern agricultural
Implements or of a betUr market for his
products , ho must oppjy { o the police au
thorities for permission arI ( must wait pa
tiently until they are ready to grant It. If
he goes more than twenty miles from Ills
home without the permission of the police
duly endorsed upon his passport he Is liable
to be arrested and sent back like an escaped
criminal by etape. If he wishes to migrate
to another part of theempire he must get
the permission of the cpmrftune to which he
belongs , ol the local pojllce , ol the governor
of the province and o { the ministry of
finance. It he desires to erect a bathhouse
on his premises , he must have permission.
If his housa happens to bmjl down he must
camp out In the street until be gets per
mission to rebuild. IT lie desires to put a
roof of thatched strawupon his new house
he must have permlsslofi 16 do to , and must
agree to smear the atnfyr'jwltli a mixture of
clay and water BO that It ? will not readily
take fire from sparks. If be wishes , on a
spring or summer holiday , to decorate hla
house or the village church -with young birch
trees he must have permission to go Into the
forest and cut them , If ho deslrea to thresh
out his grain In the evening by candlelight
lie must ask permission. ' If he absents him
self from the church and -neglects for a cer
tain stated time to partake of the holy com
munion be Is "admonished" by the police.
If the governor neglects to provide > hlm with
educational facilities and lie undertakes to
open In his native village a smalt primary
school , where bis own and hl n lghbor'a
children can learn to read and write , her it tt
c-tco stopped by hla bureaucratic guardians
and severely reprimanded for daring to act
In luch a matter without authority.
It he desires to counteract the evil In *
1 fluenw ot the Uabak , ui vlllac drinking
Ml-on , by cstubllili'nR ' n small village li
brary , he must first gpt special permission
and must then confine hlnwlf wlnmst
wholly In his selection of books lo Ilfcraiuro
of & moral nnd religious character which has
b en approved by the ecclesiastical &i well
ns the civil censorship , and which Is about
ns stltntilatUg nnd nourishing to the mind
as an infusion ot bran In holy water would be
to the body. It nn educated young peasant
returns from the university to his native vil
lage and wishes to furnish hla less fortunate
friends and acquaintances with rational
amusement and Instruction by giving free
public readings from popular authors with
magic lantern Illustrations lie must first get
a certificate ot "political trustworthiness"
from the curator of the educational district ,
then obtain the permission of the local eccle
siastical authorities nnd the governor ot tha
province , and finally glvo his entertainment
under the supervision of the police. In short ,
there Is hardly a field ot human activity in
which tha Husslan peasant can escape from
the control of his bureaucratic nurses , and da
as ho would like to do. Ho is not supposed to
have ability enough to plan anything tor
himself , and Is officially given credit for even
less Intelligence than that shown by n siiulr-
rol. The latter , without Instruction or com
pulsion , stores up food In time ot plenty lo
meet his wants In time of need ; but the peas ,
ant , In the opinion of the government , has
not sense enough to imitate the squirrel ,
or the bee , and must , therefore , bo com
pelled every summer to put a certain quan
tity of grain In n public storehouse tmde. *
the supervision ol officials In order that lie
may not starve to death as a result of his
own Improvidence and Imbecility.
I'ltoiiiniTED rnoM SELLING HAY.
In a recent number of n well known St.
Petersburg Journal thcie Is published a cir
cular letter from the governor ot a Russian
province to the police of the rural districts
directing them to take such steps ai may be
necessary to prevent the peasant farmers
from selling their hay. The peasants , the
governor says , arc apt to dlrpose ol their hay
In the fall at a low price In order to buy
with the proceeds certain "useless articles of
luxury and display , " and unless they are pre
vented from BO doing they are likely to part
with fodder which they will afterwards need
for the subsistence of their cattle. The gov
ernor further suggests that In localities where
hay ls already scarce the peasants be directed
to pile -what they have of It with straw in
alternate layers , "so that the straw may ac *
quire by contact the nroma , nnd to some ex
tent the- taste of hay , " and so that the cattle
mtiy be Induced to eat It.
"Experience lias shown. " tha governor
says In conclusion , "that the peasant farmer
needs careful guardianship , as well as pro
tection from his weakness for drink and his
thoughtless prodigality. All ofllclals , there
fore , who have direct authority over him ,
must constantly remind him that he has been
given an allotment of land solely In order
that ho may live and pay Ills taxes , and that
the product of such land must bo devoted to
these purposes exclusively. "
SERFS OF THE CROWN.
It would be hard to nnd a more apt illus-
ratlon of the attitude of the government
oward the governed than that furnished by
ils typical letter of Instruction. The
easant , in the. view of the official , Is not
n enfranchised citizen , born with right to
life liberty and the pursuit of happiness. '
le is merely a serf of the crown who has
een given an allotment of land in order
that he may live and pay taxes , " and who
must ba prevented , by careful guardianship ,
rom pursuing happiness In any way that
vould tend to impair his tax-paying power or
Is value a&a domestic animal. How "care-
il" the "guardianship" ot the local ofllclals
s we may Infer from the fact that it extends
ven to the disposal of the peasant's sur-
lus product and to such matters ot domes-
c economy as the best means of giving to
ry straw the aroma and the taste of hay.
n vain , of course , to expect thai peasant
armers who are subjected to this vexatious
ystem of bureaucratic control will ever
ecome cither enterprising or prosperous.
V man quickly loses Interest in his work
f he IB not allowed to plan It. and the work
self soon becomes unproductive If directed
y inexperienced and Incompetent overseers ,
tusslan officials as a class are not trained
conomists they are not even well educated
men. In the province of Samara only D per
ent ot the officials appointed by the ministry
f the- Interior ( thirty-one out of 595) ) have
ad a liberal education , and In the province
f Vilna only 2 % per cent ot the- police have
ad even n common school training. To
uppose that such men are more capable of
nanaglng the peasant's business than the
ica&ant is of managing his own business Is ,
o say the least , unreasonable , and to In-
rust such men with discretionary controlling
lower over the lives and the activities of
0000000 of people Is to discourage Inalvld-
al enterprise , hamper Individual effort and
eprlve the empire of halt its productive
orce.
VEED GREATER INDIVIDUAL LIDERTY ,
From the facts above set forth with re
gard to the economic condition of the Hus-
'lan peasant and the vexatious and crip
pling restraint to whlrii lie Is subjected by
ils bureaucratic guardians It must , I think ,
bo evident that one of the first and most
urgent of the reforms needed In Russia Is
a reform In the direction of greater Indi
vidual liberty. If the government will abolish
Is oppressive and humiliating passport sys
tem abolish Us. policy of bureaucratic guard-
anshlp and control , make the village com
munes free In fact as- they ore In theory ,
Jeave the management of local affairs to the
provincial and cantonal assemblies and en
courage individual enterprise and local public
spirit Instead of systematically discouraging
and repressing them , It will remove one of
the causes of national Impoverishment and
carry forward the great work which the
Czar-Liberator began of transforming a horde
of Ignorant , helpless and dependent serfs Into
energetic , self-respecting
a nation ol capable ,
and self-reliant cltl :
Baldeck , Nova Scotia.
Cook's Imperial. World's fair "blgbes
award , excellent champagne ; good cHmes
cence , agreeable bouquet , delicious flavor.
SO.UIJ OF A'AI-OtEOX'S JI.1.VIMS.
There are calumnies against which even
Innocence loses courage.
He who Is unmoved by tsars has no heart ,
It Is the cause and not the death that _
makes the martyr.
Military bravery has nothing In common
with cIvlimouraEe.
The'consclcncc Is the inviolable asylum of
the liberty of man.
Grief has Its bounds , which must not be
excejded.
All predictions are Impostures , the result of
fraud , folly , or fanaticism.
Experience Is the true wisdom of nations.
Greatness is nothing unless It be lasting.
The best way to cure the body is to quiet
the mind.
Fortune lias always been the first title to
consideration.
Girls cannot be better brought up than by
their mother ; public education Is not suitable
to them.
There Is no moro fatal misfortune for a man
than lo allow himself to be governed by his
wife ; in such case he Is neither hlm&clf nor
his wife ; he Is simply nothing.
In great crises It Is woman's lot to soften
our misfortunes. ,
Fanaticism must be lulled first In order
that It may be uprooted.
Nothing Is done while something still re
mains to be done.
The woman we love is always the most
beautiful of her sex.
When firmness is sufficient rashness is
unnecessary.
THE CHARM
OP BEAUTY
li everywhere recognized. Drauty and en aged
appearance are Impossible. One woman In a
million Is pretty -with gray hair. The others
must preserve their hair and their beauty by
uslne IMPERIAL
Hair REGENERATOR
II Is not a dye , but a coloring , clean , health
ful efficient. It not only restores to a rich ,
beautiful color and luttre. but acts us a hair
tula also. Beven shades from lightest aia blond
to r&Arn black. Made only by
IMI'EltlAL CHEMICAL , MFO. CO.
92 fifth Avenue , New York.
Cold by Sherman & UcConnell , 1U9 Dodri Ut. ,
Omaha , Kcbratluu
MEMI'llIS AITnAL-AVALANntn , March 1C. ,
1S3 { . There vns n brlnht pnrklo In her eyes !
nnil her comely RuMen henil boi > o < l m graceful
DolcnowledRment ot the npplnnso with vhlch she
A-IJB receded Itwas mlmlttcil by nil who had
this opportunity lo ndmlro hsr perfect llguro
that she \\n * faultless. '
OLIJVIJLAND I'LAtNIinALRIl , ! > ! ) . 27 , ISM-
ISnthuslasH lia o llkrnml her to the rcnaxvned '
flfruro of Venus dIMIlo. dincc abounds In her
c-very movement.
NKW OltLUANS PICAYITN'R , Mnrcli U. 1SM-
She Is ns beautiful ns It Is posslhlo for u wo
man to bo ,
, " . " ) " "HE * . Feb. 2S. 1M4.-AI1 nRroed
that she wns cortnjnly the most man < Ions wo
man Knoun to the enrtli Rlnce llclui of Troy
drmo men mad with her chat ins.
Medal and Diploma
Awarded by World's Fair
NARllVtU.n TIANN'KIl , Mnrrh 11. 1SDI. Tht
curlnln plowly rse > nn < l Mtnr Vnlf In oil h f
lo\ollru- npptnreil IIP fore licr ( ulinlrlim nnJI-
encp. To ray th.it she Is Iwoly tl\ra but a faln
Idea of her bcnuty. Her brlRlil ejvs Hash wllli
( lie lirllllnncy and lire uf Kenlous and of early-
) tith.
I inmtotT Tiunt'Ni : . tvh. e , tyi.-Tiiu \
June \nlo , Tilio In npllo of her nrltnowIcJcrcl 41
> enrs. ptood lliero HKin jounit Rc < Mr s In nil o
licr "Rilden lialnil fatuity. " n living tribute to
tlio MOuc of lirr own tllseo\prlci < .
CHICAOO HKHAI.D. Jim. 10. 1VH-Unexpected
mnxcteH appeared nn < l dlsninimreil. The specta
tors lield thrlr lin-.ith. lout In mtmlrntlnn.
HOSTON lintlALD , Mnroh 1 , 1834. She tins Ihl
ta.ee of n young sir ! with Moml complexion ,
light curling Imlr. n. l > pnullful jiguro ana a neck
aa fair as a '
Almo. Ynlo iruiirnnta-s the public that she ivns not born bountiful. Her marvelous
complexion remedies have done the work for her. Tiioy will du the same- for all who use
l. Yale's BXcalsior Gorjtpicxiot )
the l ey-ltfote fco
PRIOEi LIST-
rimplcs. niack ircntls , nnd fikln Diseases cureil
with Mme. Vale's Hpeelnl Union No. 1 nnil
filial Olntnunt No. 2 , guaranteed price ,
fl.OO inch.
[ Kceisior SKio Food ,
Ounratitced to remove wrlnl > tea and every
trnca of agre. J'rlco $1 50 nnil } 3.W.
Exceislor complexion Bleach.
Ounninleed tj remove unllon ness , moth
IxitcluB nnd nil sltlu bloml.shc.s. Gives n
nnturnl complexion of mnrvelnus beauty.
1'ilce J2.00 i-er buttlp ; six for 53.00.
Excelsior naif loiic.
Turns urns' hair nek to Its own natural
color nllhout < ljc. The lint and only rem
edy In the history nf chemljtry kncmn to do
this. St pa hair falllnu In from 54 Mourn to
ono week : creates a luxuriant growth. Price
I'rlco 12.00 per bottle ; J5.0J for three bottles.
xceisior Bust food.
Guaranteed to develope a beautiful bust nnd
nr-cl ; ; Klvea llminess to the Mesh nnd creates
a natural condition of plumpuecs. 1'ilce 51.DO
and 3.00.
GreoiM !
Mme. Ynle's wonderful remedy for rcmo\lnc
and destroying tint grouih of ecperllaus Imlr
takes but li\e minutes to line : does not huit ,
Irritate or e\en make the skin red ; removes
every trace In one application , Trice fi.OO.
ill
Mme. M. Ynle'n wonderful I.a Frcekla Is
known to be tlio only cure for freckles. In
from 3 days to one week after Its first ap
plication \ery freckle will disappear and
the complexion become aa clear UB crystal.
1'rlce tl.W per battle.
[ Kceisior Almond Blossom complexion era
lie lines coarse pores , hcvps the nktn smooth
and lovely. I'rlco 11.00.
txcctsior Hid Mflior
MokoH the lmml soft , HI- white and beauti
ful. I'rlco sj.w. :
M end in
f"i nnd destroys forc\er moles uid
uaitt. I'rlco jiX- .
Eye-iosn aid Eye-Draw Grower
Makes the lushes KTOW tlilclc nnil long * the
Dye-brcms luxuriant ntnl almpcly , Btrcngth-
ens nml bcuutlllca the eycaj tuarantecU pure.
Price $1.00.
Elixir ol Beamy
Cultlvntes natural rosy clippks. a nondcrful
nklii tonic. 1'rlca $1.C" ) per buttle.
, H. Vole's Excelsior Fertilizer
Cures c natlpatlon. Trice 51. M.
Excelsior Blood Tonic
Purifies the blooil , nets on tliR liver , kidneys
nnd builds up the > ) btem. 1'rlce 11,00 , pet
buttle ; six fur K.DU.
Mine. M. Ynlo's wonderful cure for nil hinds
of femaln weakness. I'rlco $1.00 per bottlaj
Fix fol $ j.OO.
SOLD BY DRUGGISTS.
Full line carried by Kuhn &Co. , 1Mb and Douslaa streets , Merchant & Vlclicrs10th
and Howard , Kinslcr Drug Co. , 10th and F.u-nsiin , W. J. Hiulioi , ! Mtli nnd Furnnrn , George
S. Davis , Council Bluffs , and by tul druggists. At , wholcs.ila by E. E. Bruct & Oo , anO
Richardson Drug Company , Omiihu.
Moll orders and corrcsiionaenco may bo sent to Mme Yulo's lieadquartirs
TEMPLE OF BEAUTY , 1SS0lsffl.Bt'
This extiv Constipation
ordinary Ko- ,
( tivcnator Is
Falling Ben-
the -
most
wonderful BatlonR.Kcrv-
discovery of DUE twitching
the agef It of tbe eyes
has been and other
en
dorsed by the paits.
leading scien Strenjrthcns ,
tific- men of Invigorates
Europe , and and tones the
America. cntlresyitcm.
Hudyan la HuJjan cures
purely vrgo- Ueblllty ,
table. Kcrrousnecs ,
Hudyan stops hmisslous ,
Prenwtuieness anddevelopes
and
of the discharge reotorra
in weak organ t.
charge 20
. Pains In the
Cures
days.
bock , losses
LOST by day or
MANHOOD cightEtoppcd
quickly. o\cr 2,090 , private Indorsements.
1'reinaturencsa means Impou-ncy In the first
stage. 11 li a symptom of seminal weakness and
bairenness. It can ba cured In 29 days by tha
use of Hudyan.
The new discovery TIBS maflo by the specialists
of the old famous Hudson Medical Institute. It
Is the ctrongcst vltalltfr made. It Is > .r > power
ful , but harmless. Sold for SI.03 a package , or
sir packages for J5 CO ( plain scaled boxes ) .
Willtcn Eunrnntc-c given for n cure. It you buy
six boxes , nnd are not entirely cured , six moro
will lie sent to you free of nil charge. Bend for
circulars nnd testimonials. Address
HUDSON MEDICAL INSTITUTE
Junction Stoclcton Market , and Ellin
Streets , San Franoifcco.CaL
SURELY CURED.
To THE EDITOH Plenso inform your read-
era that I hiivo a positive remedy for the
above named disease. Hy its timeljr usa
thousands of hopclces easen liavo liccn per
manently cured. I shrill bo glad to Bond
two bottles of my remedy free to any of yotir
readers who have consumption if they will
eendtno their express nnd post nlUco address.
T. A. Slocuni , M.O. , 1831'curl St. , New York.
BOOKS RELATING TO MEXICO
Tor sulo by F- HOSCK ,
1st , Arm J'niiifliifo Street , lit ,
Oltjj o'f Maxloo , Moxloo
U. 8. Oy.
The Mexican Customhouse tariff , In Eng-
llsn , with chanson < date , Uo. one vol.
p.p. 437 2.M
Mining- Coda of Jlixlco , In English and Span
ish , with circulars and rulings on tarne ,
Uo. p p. 1C2 i LOt
Law of the Federal Stamp Tax , In English
and Spanish , with changes to date , one val
i\o. pp. KK > I L * >
Coltce-giuwlng In Mexico , the best work on
the subject. In English. Ha. p.p. CO I l.W
The History , use. etc. ot the Jlc'clcnn Galen
4ar Blone. In Ungllsh. by J. J. Valentin ) ,
nlthplate. Svo. p.p. 60 0.59
The Sacred City of lha Toltecs. by J > opoldo
Uutrca. nlth numerous colored plates , Uo
p.p. 33 0.5)
Catalogue of the National Museum of Mexico
by AV. W. nial.e. M. A , , In niiEllsh. co
piously Illustiated , 4tn. pp. 01 0.7S
Directory of tlio City uf Mexico by E. Iluh-
land $ 3.01
Directory of the Interior of Mexico , some
author | 2.5 }
The lubllo Lands Law of Mexico , In Eng
lish O.U
The Patent Lawn of Mexico ,1n English
and Spanish . , . . . , , , 0.8
Itcmlt K. "V. Uxchance with orders.
BUST
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Al o permanently remove wrlnkles.flll out hollows
In the throat , neck nnd armi U gives new llfosnd
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" ROYALE CREME"
fortho Complexion Is the rau l wonderful prepir-
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the complexion a O I.EA lUs Oil YHTA1. . I'rlc *
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iujrorm. " Mme. JOSEPHINE LE FEVRE ,
IWIS Cheitmit Wreol. PHILADELPHIA. 1'A. .
HeM > niiilbl imfiiH-m women vantcu to open offlceaU
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THE DENTIST
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Women Excluded.
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