THE OiMAHA DAILY BKEt SUNDAY , JUNE. 10 , 1801- 11
of Bandeaux to Adorn the Pace *
of the Belles of ' 04 ,
THE FASCINATING BEAU CATCHER DOOMED
JChe > "cw Style Vi'lll Jlo Kovcro nnil Trying
to Jinny I'ncci , lint tlio Kdlct tint Gone
Forth Kiitcltorliuckorii for Women
C/clorn Faidiloim of tlin Day.
The time Imu come for laying nslilc the
'curling tonga nml bidding a Ions fnrowel
to the waving pins. Curl papers will nc
longer make night hideous , and dump days
Mil no longer ho dreaded by womankind
for hair Is henceforth for a while , at least-
CD be worn with ti stxalKhtnuBg nnd n llalneas
iliat may cause the price of bandoline to
mount upward , for has not the fashion editor
of the New York World front the top of Its
tower proclaimed the fact that the bandcitt
bns returned.
To know what the bandeau Is It Is ncccs-
lary only to find a daguerreotype of one's
mother , taken when nho was n bluomlng
youns woman. However rtlmmcd nnd faded
the portrait may be , the bandeau will ho
plain. Tlin hnlr will bo parted with mathe
matical cxnctnciiH In the center. There will
bo no suspicion of wave or curl to It , but
tvcn In the old-fashioned picture It will seem
to ahlno ao the result of many patient brush-
Inga and to Ho flat upon the forehead with
H llatnc-sH that n cyclone could not disturb ,
The bandeau Is brought down from the
middle of the brow , HO that It touches the
outer corner of the eyebrow , hides most of tlin
forehead , n portion of the cheek nnd all but
the lower tip of th& car. It must be trained
to cling to the fitco with n closeness that no
rude wind > r nhcr force can disturb , for a
bandeau In a milled condition Is , of all hope
lessly Incongruous affairs , the worst.
In the olden days It was the custom nt
the bandcaued belles to gather their locks ,
iftor they had been carefully brought to the
pack of the head , In a big wad , which the/
Confined In n net. This chignon Is n feature
> f the old Btyle which Is providentially omit
ted from the revival. The belle of ' 91 will
rather her lochH Into a knot wherever It
IB most becoming to her on the top of her
bead , at the back or at the n.tpo of her neck.
The fashion Is already well under way In
Paris. The 1'arls Illustrated weeklies nro
hawing beautiful young women nnd plain
young women , not to mention middle-aged
nd old women , nil going about with their
hair neatly plastered down In bandeau.
There arc certain styles of countenance
which can stand this severe fashion , Just
SB there are some women who are duchess-
Ilko In glnghatn wrappers. A pale , clear
complexion , dark hair and cameollko features
make n face admirably adapted to the ban-
flcau. A rosy complexion , a saucy. Insignifi
cant nose and ungovernable locks of browner
or yellow are a combination to which the
bandeau would prove extremely trying. As
Tor all the victims of plainness , homeliness ,
ugliness , fatness , scrawnlness and the rest
the Imagination hesitates to think what they
.will all rcacmblo when the bandeau has
really airlvcd.
It Is said that In Franco and England the
fomlnlnc portion of the population has given
Itself up body nnd soul to cycling , nnd It
begins to look ns though the American
women were not to bo outdone In enthusiasm
for It.
At first American cycling women put on
ny old clothes they happened to haye when
ihoy went out for a turn , thinking the only
Soccssltlcs were that they should have on
nprnothlng tllat wouldn't bo spoiled nnd that
via ? loose and comfortable , says the New
York" Sun. But now that they have awak
ened to the fact that something more is
Efioded , the perfect costume has been
evolved.
VTho keynote Is knickerbockers , and as
Jndriy llnrmonles may b.s sounded as Indl-
flldual taste may suggest.
ubno Of the most thoroughly sensible and
co'mfortablo" , as well as prettiest , suits has
been designed by nn artist and a woman em
ployed by one of the largo dry goods houses ,
and It has been adopted ns their especial
cycling costilme" . It consists of knicker
bockers just below the knee , over which Is
aklrt a trifle slier er. This skirt Is gored
( Lna has n full box-plaited back. It fastens
In the seam of the front gore § 2 U'B1 ' Q9
opening is visible. So that It may not pull
Uliart from the belt It Is fastened to It by
moans of llttlo tabs underneath. As most
ivomon feel uncomfortable about appearing
In trousers , especially In the city , this skirt
is quite nn ndvnntage. Then It may bo dls-
Jarii ftt Will , using only the knlcker-
cocKofs. ' * .
tVTlio jacket Is sliort , ceding In n bolt that
pSSsaa under the narrow rover's nnd fastens
.with a buckle In front. Any kind of a shirt
or blouse can bo worn with this. The silk
'ones are pretty , but flannel Is the most
fcr enalblo material to make them of , ns It
absorbs the perspiration , leaving ono less
sensitive to the air when the exertion of mo
tion Is over. The sleeves of the Jacket como
Just below the ) elbow , so that the arm Is as
Jroo as possible. Long gloves are , of course ,
a necessity.
Long cloth leggings to match the suit
como up to meet the knickerbockers. When
the weather Is too warm for these , Mow
Ihoos nro the best things to wear , as with
boots the muscles of the Instep do not hnvo
tree play , nnd often become uncomfortable
If long rides are taken.
Another costume has a long , tight-fitting
double-breasted coat , the skirt of which Is
full nnd corncs down to the knees. This
style will hardly become popular , however ,
as a corset should bo worn to make such a
garment fit well , and this Is not advisable.
The clothesshould bo loose nnd comfortable ,
BO that Inspiration may bd deep nnd full.
This Is the only way toguard against
fatlguo.
After the first struggle of Venturing forth
In bloomers Is over , many women prefer to
do without oven the abort skirt. And really
the difference In appearance Is very slight.
The bloomers can bo made so full that at a
short distance It IB Impos-'V.o to toll them
from a skirt. A short Eton Jacket Is very
Jaunty , worn over a pretty waist , and a coat
coming very full Just over the hips seems n
favorite stylo. These suits can bo made In
any material , but storm serge , cheviot nnd
flannel nro the most servlcenblo. Soft hats
and caps of every description nro brought
Into piny , but a sailor hat has nn ad
vantage In shading the eyes. *
Pretty and graceful as the women In
knickerbockers look when they are nstrldo
their bicycles. It must be confessed that they
nro apt to startle all beholders when they
parndo around In the new dress apart from
their machines. The feminine generosity
of hips added to the general display of the
full figure Is very pronounced , especially
If the knickerbockers are of the bolder pat
tern that ends at the knees.
It 13 said that this Is going to bo a "white
summer , " precisely as black , touched up
with a color , linn been the favorite dress of
the winter. With this In vlow , n Paris hat
ter has provided delightful sailor hats of
whlto duck for the girls who nro going
In for gowns of duck for yachting nnd the
Beasldo generally. The snowy duck , says
Harper's Bazar , Is stretched smoothly over
rlco straw hats of the purest whiteness and
most perfect shape , the straw showing only
on the Insldo of the brim. The trimming
may bo simply a band of thickly rcpped rib
bon with a bow on the left sldo clinging to
the crown. Hut If left to the milliner a
further trimming Is added , as a twist around
the crown of' dark blue * and whlto silk ,
strlpo < l or plnldod , with n great rosette of
the saino on the loft , from which springs a
group of snowballs on long stems that move
with every motion of the wearor. A half-
Inch binding of thickly repped ribbon of a
navy blue tthade around tlui brim.
Another duck hat of purest white has a
band of butter-colored gulpuro Insertion
around the crown , with chaux of white satin
In front , and on the loft a cluster of
purplish-blue Iris blossoming on long steins
stretching high In the air amid their thick
green leaves ,
" Is " announced I'rls-
"Thoro one thing , -
cllla , giving her hat a vlcloiu Jab1 with her
hat-pin and tossing It on the table , "that
Jlsgusts mo terribly. "
"What Is It this tlmo ? " Inquired Nancy ,
drho has heard that expression In regard teat
at least a score of Prlscllla's pet aversions ,
and whooo conversation was being taken by
a New York World reporter.
"It's the fact that I have never yet heard
woman engaged In doing gocd to her own
tes who did not maintain and proclaim that
a girl who works muat go nlnut panopllei
In frigidity nnd fairly bristling With us
plclon. If she would t r.npo inMilt. I've Jus
been up lo the Pahjtion Army's new reeu
home , and Mrs. lialllngtun Do .tli wax telllln
how glrli who are to go out a * c-tnvniiaerj
who are typewriter * and stenogrnphurx hav
to wage continual warfare to prcscrvo thcl
honor. It dlfgudts me , I tell you. "
"Don't you bellovo It ? " asked Xancy
breaking off n thread. ,
"Oh , I believe In Mrs. Booth and nil th
other roxcuem , of course. In fact , one nl
most believes she In staling a uniform
truth when she wpcakv , she Is lovely , am
has such a sympathetic , rnrniut. Impulalv
way. But ohc forgets that nlio hoar * on ! ;
the stories of the few women who have bin
to fight , nnd never those of the man :
who have met with cuurtoiy and cons d.T.itloi
nt every point. 1 hiiiposc | It's natural fo
women who nro constantly hcarliig sai
stories to think of the unlvcnrc as poo'It' ] '
with roaring lion' , of men who K > > abou
seeking whom they may devour , nut
trembling little Ininbi of women. But
know It Isn't no , bocnuso I know BO many o
the other kind of girls. "
"I'll tell you what I think , " grnr.iuuslj
volunteered Nancy. "I think that a uomat
who Is expecting IniiUlt will get It us surel ]
an she lives. It Isn't necessary to Invite It
It * i quite enough to g about looking for tin
ravening wolvc . But a girl who Is so nun
of herself that It never oC'
curs to her to pl.tco herscll
In the position of n dcvourablo lamb wll
find few wolvpK. If every girl who goes Intc
nn ofTlcc unly felt , I\B inert of them do , tlmn ) <
heaven ! thnt fhc and dishonor nre ns wldcl )
separated as the north Is frutn the south
thnt view of herself Would Impress Itsoll
upon the men fcho meets. Besides , Prix , H'f
my solemn opinion that a business man It
gennrally too much occupied with h's own
affairs to begin even a flirtation with hie
typewriter or the girl who wants to sell him
copies of General Grant's life. "
"That's what I think , " agreed Prlscllla.
"Not one women of nil the ones t know
has over been rudely treated In nny busi
ness transactions she has had with men.
Not one of them ever expected to be.and
that's tfiu secret of It all. A man's ex
tremely apt to take a woman's own valu
ation of herself , after nil. "
The shops nro filled with so-called duck
suits , costing from a few dollars upwards ,
some with little linen In them , others very
fine , polntllle or brocaded with silk , nil cut
after one plan , with n Jacket and skirt to
wear with n vest or shirt-waist. Of course
tailors delight In making these Jackets nnd
coats , RH such garments nro their specialty ,
says IIarper'8 Bazar ; yet nt Hedfern's one
sees the simplest gowns of white linen
duck , not unlike fine glossy sheeting , marked
$75 , and made with n plain belted waist and
a round skirl trimmed with the genuine
navy-bluo dungaree worn by the British
navy. They nro without lining , and. nro cool
to the touch In the sultriest hour. The
linen wnlst slopes In a V from the shoulders
to bo gathered front nnd back to n wide belt
of blue dungaree fctrlpcd with white braid.
The V space Is filled In with n shield of the
blue twilled cotton striped with cross rows
of whlto braid , and there Is a broad sailor
collar of the deep blue bordered with rows
of whlto braid. The sleeve , all In ono piece ,
of whlto linen , Is very wide at the top , nnd
stitched below tho" elbows In length-wlso
tucks to make It fit closely in n blue dun
garee cuff trimmed with rows of white linen
braid. The skirt , nearly four yards wide ,
Is gathered to whlto silk belting , nnd Is
trimmed nt the foot witn a four-inch band
of the dark dungaree with three or four
rows of dark blue braid above It.
The real old maid Is like any other woman.
She has faults necessarily , though not those
commonly conceived of. She Is often plump ,
pretty , amiable. Interesting , Intellectual , cul
tured , warm-hearted , benevolent nnd has
ardent friends of both sexes. These con
stantly wonder why she has not married ,
for they feel that she must have had many
opportunities. Some of them may know
why ; she , may have made them her confi
dantes. She usually has a sentimental , ro-
nantlc , frequently u sad and pathetic past ,
of which she does not speak , unless In the
sacredncss pf intimacy , says the Ladles'
: Iomo Journal. She Is not dissatisfied , quer
ulous nor envious. On the contrary , she is ,
for the most part , singularly content , patient
and serene moro so than many wives who
inve household i Ucs and domestic cares to
: Ire andi trouble * them. *
As Is often thought , she should have been
married , Judging from externals In a cursory
vay. But who can tell ? Only she Is capable
bleof dcternilnlng , and she has already de-
ermlned. It Is ffn Jrhpertlgnco | ) for others
0 discuss the niatre ? . gvery woman of
good sensQ who. has reached djgyretlonarj
years must settle thnt mpmentflUs questioner
or herself. She knows b ottcr about It than
inyone else can know. Hers Is the risk ,
hers the responsibility ; the final decision
should bo hers also.
It Is n stupldt as well ns a heinous mls-
eke , that" women whofemaln ilnglodo _ > so
rpm necessity. Almost nny womiih can get
1 hdsba'nd" she Is BO minded , as dally o ] > .
jeTv'atioh attests. When wo see the m"ulfl :
udo of wives who have no visible signs
jf matrimonial recommendation , why should
ve think that old maid ? have been totally
neglected ? We may meet tnoso who do not
ook Inviting. But wo meet any number of
wives who nro even less Inviting.
It must be very rare Indeed that an old
mnld Is such from lack of connubial op-
j'ortunlty. Her condition indicates not that
she Is unattractive , but that she Is some-
vhat fastidious , that she demands certain
lualltles In him that she chooses for a part
ner , and not finding them that she prefers
o continue partnerless. The appearance
ind outgiving of many wives denote that
hey have accepted the first offer ; the np-
nearnnco and outgiving of many old maids
hnt they have declined repeated offers. It
s undeniable that wives , In the mass , have
no more charm than old maids have , In the
mass. But , as the majority of women are
married , they are no more criticised or com
mented on , In the bulk , than the whole sex
ire. They are spoken of Individually as
pretty or plain , bright or dull , pleasant or
unpleasant ; whllo old maids are Judged as
i species , and. almost always unfavorably.
It Is now an open fact that feet are grow-
ng larger as one consequenceof that out-
Uor life led by so many girls of the period.
The tiny slipper once so raved about In
poetry and prose ns a positive Inspiration
vhcn worn by pretty women will como to
) Q regarded as a sort of antediluvian relic ,
dating from n tlmo when feet were practic
ally unused , their owners being as adverse
.o active exercise as a lap dog. The heavy
read of the beetle-crushing foot will be
leard In the land , laments ilio Providence
lournal , and even ultra-fashionables will
mve to confess to fives , sixes or sevens ns
heir size. With llttlo hysterical giggles
, hey will profess wonderment at the way
.heir feet have grown since they took to
awn tennis , physical culture nnd walking
ours , and they can console themselves
with the reflection that many other young
vomcn ImVo the same tale to tell. How
eng , think you , will the high French heel
continue In favor , now that women are so ,
much on their feet ? It Is a form of
nuch on their feet ? It Is a form of
torture , all said and done , If anything like
n gooU. walk Js attempted , that clump under
ho middle of the solo Just right for slant- ,
ng the foot nt a misery-producing nnglo ,
mid crushing the toes Into a corner. I
lon't know how many women I have heard
his last winter expatiating on the good re
mits they have felt from the physical culture
: lnsH and from regular dally walks.
Can any ono still prate of the good old
lines after reading the following extract
torn a sixteenth century book entitled ,
'Tho Accomplished Lady's Illch Closet , or
ngenlous Gentleman's Delightful Com
panion ? "
"A gentlewoman , being at table , must
observe to keep her body straight and not
ran by any means with her elbows , nor by
ravenous gesture discover a voracious ap-
letlte ; talk not when you have meat In
our mouth , and do not smack like a pig ,
lor venture to eat spoon meat BO hot that
ho tears Bland In your eyes , which Is as
insecmly as the gentlewoman who pro-
ended to have as llttlo a stomach as uho
lad a mouth , nnd therefore would not
swallow her peas by spoonful , but took them
mie by ono and cut them In two before she
would cat them. It Is very unseemly to
Irlnk so largo a draught that your breath
almost gone and you are forced to blow
strongly' to recover yourself. "
Old-tlmo Wnshlngtonlans have been do-
Ightod of late to have among them a woman
who was once the central figure In society at
the capital. Then she was known as "pretty
Betty Bliss. " Bofuro that she bad been
Betty Taylor , nnd It wa as the daughter ot
aid Zachary Taylor that she presided at the
whlto house In place of her Invalid mother.
Her father had a great objection to army
officers as hunbaiuls for tils daughters , bt
with what teemed to him the perversity c
the fcmald mind all of them married mil
tnry men. The oldest became the fin
wife of Jefferson Davis , though It was sove
long years before General Taylor gave hi
content. The young bride died within
yeur after her marrlagp und her father'
sorrow probably made the way easier fo
Mlfg Betty when the set her heart u
Colonel Bliss. U wns the husband wh
died this time , and then the hopes of score
of old suitors revived. The fasrlnattn
your.g widow finally detected Philip Pendlc
ton Dahdrldgc of WlnchoHer , Vn. Thou <
her homo was almost a perpetual battle
ground during the war , nnd though lie
btother-lu-lnw wns at the head of the con
fedcracy , "pretty Betty Bliss" was neve
molested by federal troips. Mrs. Dandrldg
has been living quietly In Virginia and 1
ttlll n charming woman.
For a man's birth look to his linen nni
finger nails , nnd observe the Inflections c
his voice. For his tastes , study thi > cob
of his ties , the pattern nnd hang of hi
trousers * , his friends nnd his rings If nny
For his propensities witlk round nnd lool
cm ( 'fully nt the back of his head , and , re
member , wlrls , never to marry a mini whnu ,
neck bulges ever so llttlo over his collar
If you want a successful man sec that hi
has a neat foot ; ho will move quicker , te
over obstacle * ) fnstor than a n < an who full :
over liln own toes and trips up other folk :
with 'cm , too. For his breeding talk Bcutl
merit to him when he Is starving and n )
h'm ' to cnrry n bandbox down n publli
street when you've Just had a row. Tc
tent his temper tell him his nose Is a little
on ono sldo and you don't like the way hh
hair gro\vs rind If that won't fetch hln
nothing will.
A pen" portrait from n , foreign correspond'
ent of n typical Argentine girl presents c
very " charming picture. In the bloom ol
youth , nnd maturity ns well , for she Is full )
developed nt 15 , she Is beautiful to. lool <
upon , with her erect nnd splendidly proportioned
tioned figure , perfect oval face , hair ns dart
ns night nnd lustrous eyes shaded with long
curling lashes. A tinge of European blooil
gives her checks the dainty pink of n Jam-
ask rose. And as her full , red lps ! p..ft In
a smile over teeth of that pearly perfection
rarely seen she Is a fascinating object ol
sensuous bsauty. To complete the enchant
ing picture she must be clad In some soft ,
clinging material made In the latest Parisian
styles , with here and there a gleam of diamonds
mends , and a coquettish hat to frame her
dainty face. A woman In the highest sense
of her peculiar nature , and yet a child with
all the vivacity of youth. She captivates
with her beauty , but In mind and soul there
Is something wanting which physical perfec
tion does not satisfy , and the charm Is soon
gone , for at 25 , when the American girl IE
just at her best , the Argentine girl Is passee ,
growing corpulent and coarse very rapidly
as she approaches middle age. Her habits
are Indolent , and she Is addicted to the use
of rouge and powder to such an extent thai
her original complexion Is entirely con
cealed.
Mrs. Eva M. Blackman of Leavenworth ,
Kan. , Is the first woman police commis
sioner on record , and , In the langungo of the
Grasshopper state , "she makes things hum ! "
The papers have been full of tales nbout her
prowess In cutting off ofticlal heads , firing
old bachelors from the force , Installing her
friends In office , making the police force doff
their hats to her and driving n variety troupe
out of town. She also Inaugurated a code
of whistle signals by which the force Is put
In constant communication. Formerly nn
officer could never be found when wanted ,
but , thanks to Mrs. Blackman , a schedule Is
now In effect by which the whereabouts of
every man Is known at all times. She has
succeeded In getting separate quarters for
women prisoners , has secured sanitary ar
rangements undreamed of before and has
liad the jail cleaned and cleared of vermin.
Mrs. Blackman Is 27 years old , small of
stature and believes that comfort and not
style should be paramount In dress. She
owns and edits a small populist paper , on
which she docs a great deal of the work.
Her 4-year-old boy , who Is said to measure
over a foot for every year , is her constant
companion.
In some foreign hotels It Is now the CUB-
om to place a box of toilet powder on a
able In the guests' chambers , with a notice
at If It Is opened sixpence will be
( argcd In the bill. Here Is a great chance
or sornp enterprising penny-In-the-slot"lnan-
ufacturer. A womqn may not want to buy
a whole box of powder at every hotel she
rsts. | | but a pennyworth would be nn Irre-
allurement. Why should not a mul-
n
hfngs often needed by travelers ? The day
may even como when the necessary but ex-
penslve bougies of the continental hotel bill
nay disappear and the tourist bo able , by
iropplng a sou In the slot , to bavo flvo initi
ates of electric light.
Mrs. Langtry la her new play , "A Society
Jytterfly , " has put on some very gorgeous
wings , Indeed , her gowns being not only
Vorth gowns but masterpieces of that mas-
er's art and skill. A whlto silk , bongallne ,
with a whlto chiffon vest , and sash and
ciiots of' plain ribbon , does not read so
veil as It appears , but whlto brocade with
Incs of sliver passing through garlands of
link roses , has In these more words ample
uggcstlons of ravishing loveliness.
As Aphrodlto In the tableaus of the third
act , Mrs. Langtry wears a richer variety ot
ho accustomed Greek dress , but later she
returns to the mode of the moment , with
a rose-pink satin reception costume , sown
as to the skirt ) Into a knee-deep border of
gold sequins veiled In tulle. To the tulle are
: aught sprays of La Franco roses. The
xxllco has a Ecqulned belt and a smaller
rose spray , while the sleeves are a double
rill of spangled tulle. "Let the final dress
16 sympathctlque , " Mrs. Langtry had en-
olncd of Mr. Worth ; and the answer has
: omo In a lovely compound of rich white
satin and old lace , with a cloak of.turquols
and pink brocade , lined with pink satin.
Vvmlnlno Nntim.
Beatrice Harraden , the authoress , Is vlstt-
ng friends near San Diego.
Queen Victoria has now fifty-seven do-
condants , of whom four are or have , been
ovcrclgns , and nine nro heirs apparent.
The best known , woman painter of northern
Europe Is said to bo Baroness Emma Sporro
of Norway.
Lady Lansdowne has presented a hand-
omo silver medal to the Ladles' Golf club
f Calcutta , of which she was formerly presl-
ent.
ent.Mrs.
Mrs. Stephen Cooms of Rockport , Me. ,
who Is 96 years old , has spun sixty-two
kelns of yarn this last winter and carded
one fleece of wool.
Boventy-flvo girls employed as waitresses
n a Toledo (0. ( ) restaurant struck rather
ban wear caps. They had submitted to
various other regulations , but thought this
order capped the climax.
Mrs ? Ltlalno is working steadily upon the
Ife of her husband. It was supposed that
'Gall Hamilton" ( Miss Dodge ) would write
he book , but Mrs. Blalne , who has much llt-
rnry ability , will divide the labor with MlBs
Dodge.
Mrs. Henry Ward Beechor says In regard
o woman suffrage : "I am unalterably opposed
o woman suffrage. I cannot understand
why women will not bo satisfied with being
vomen , without aspiring to man's estate , "
The Grand Duchess Xonla , the czar's eld-
st daughter , who Is to bo married In
August , and her brother , the czarpwltz , who
s to be married In October , are extremely
mlablo andi 'unassuming and immensely
mpular.
Octavla M , Bates says that ninety-five
omlnlno disorders are directly traceable to
Ight lacing , and that the usual toast at
medical banquets Is , "Woman , Cod's beat
gift to man , and the chief support of the
octors. "
The city council of El Paso , Tex , , has
msscd an ordinance prohibiting women from
rearing divided skirts on the streets ot that
own , Public opinion there U bifurcated , see
o npcak , as to the wisdom ot euch leglala-
lon.
lon."To
"To Margot Tcnnant , as ho Is and Is to
te , from W. H. Gladstone , with warm
ccollectlons and fervent hopes , " was the
nscrlptlon on Mr , Gladstone's wedding prca-
nt to this bride , the daughter ot one of his
moat cherished frlenda.
Mrs. Kendal , who Is Juetly noted for her
ovely complexion , gives the following as her
beauty formula : Ten hours' sleep every night ;
a four-mile walk every day ; vigorous rub
bing In cold water ; brown bread ; no sweets
and no coffee.
Mies Grace Chlihulm of Cambridge uni
versity , England , MUa Maltby ot Wollenley
college , and Mlu Mary F. Winston ot Chi
cage have received special pcrnil. sloii fret
the Orman government to enter the I'nlvci
slty of ( Jottlnson wlIU U s.imo prlTllcges or
Joyed by men. -
MM. JullJ W rd Howe at 75 Is vlgorou
and In the fin I p ; JsklMi of nil her faculties
She In still by conUndn consent the mos
noted woman In puElldoltfo In Now Englmu :
and next to AUrgAreU duller she linn iccelvc
probably more llmriirmv other woman thcr
thr fullncti o ( populUr'Honcr.
Spain Ima enl > * 'Mo woman lawyer
Munuolii ) Palldo df'MUdtlil. She Is n re
mnrknbly liandonif < JtiihK ( wor.iun , as Amer
Rans had n chancel tV discern last Bummc
nt Chicago , where her portrait hung In th
Spanish exhibit InMho' Woman's building
The permit allowing 'hr to practice In th
Spanish courts hung llcjr by.
Amethyst colored nrolrc , made up will
whlto lace Jet , makes n."very stylish gown.
Dollcalo lined poplljii/ with cross-rib pat
terns , will bo used by ninny fashlon.ibli
modlston this summer1.
Pantsols of swivel glnglnms will bo mucl
used during the summer. In whlto they an
very dainty.
A now style In funcy hairpins shows t
head of gold finish or network Pllver , tin
odd pror.gs being ma.do of penrl.
Tennis and croquet lace plus , nlro tlnj
whips nnd silver horsca are being displayed
for trio bennflt of the nummcr girl.
The latest covert suits nre trimmed wltli
bins bands ot the cloth stretched Into o
scroll pattern , which Is stitched on by c
machine.
Heavy white nppllque embroidery made
Into corslets , vests , cuffs and epaulettes U
seen on summer gowns of crcpon In pale
colorings.
Black flowers continue to hold their po
sition as a stylish garniture for hats and
bonnets , no matter what their color may
be.
Silk muslin , crepe llssu , linen and lawn
embroideries are much used In the con
coction of the elaborate corsages worn to
day.
day.White
White and pnlo yellow evening gloves are
being sold for wear with long sleeved gowns.
Thcso have stitching In black , whlto and
yellow.
Narrow black velvet ribbon , overlaid with
ecru vine lore , or Insertions of the same
yellow lace , Is a new combination In trim
mings.
Pin-head dotted Swiss In pure whlto
shades are trimmed with deep yellow Inco
and are qulto effective ns well ns distinctly
modish.
Peach nnd blue In combination nro very
popular nt the moment. But to bo perfect
the blue must bo llko the sky , and the peach
glowing red pink.
The latest thing In dress linen Is em
broidered with flowers In their natural
shades , and the same color Is repeated In
the blousa which Is worn with them.
A dainty light mantle for evening wear
In the "summer Is made of French lace laid
In accordion plaits nud edged with narrow
frills of black lace.
Collettcs , pslcrlnei , chemisettes and para
sols are made of watered silk. Butter col
ored laces and cream and ecru lace Insertions
are used as garniture.
Embroidered muslins are fashionable In
Paris. The embroidery takes the form of
spots , all white , varying In size "from that
of a pin's head to a pea. "
Lace and jet nro two garnitures that are
very popular , especially when combined. A
pretty Illustration of MIS | combination Is seen
In the stylish bolero Jaekets displayed at the
lace counters. 3 i
Large ribbon bowsi'arc worn at the back
. - . The effect
of the neck , with drcssy.-costumcs.
fect of these bowu In ! combination with
the broad bows that adorn the backs ot
stylish hats Is peculiar.-
A pretty novcltyb'for Hhe pocket consists
of a tiny book for postage stamps and
a small calendar.cThe. . ° leaves of the book
are of rice paper , ! Urid "the flat covers are
of sterling silver. "The * calendar is of cellu
loid. / , " < ;
Neat and servlcertlile Driving and traveling
cloaks are made oCtllghtwelght serge , black
Japanese wat9rproof" srfk , changeable surah
or taffeta glace' , Capes ; , of th6 same ma
terial or of lace maj boused , , as trimming. ,
A new conpllcatlo'h .In strlctly fashionable' '
dress , which entails noena , of expense and a
lot of bother , la to * , ha.ve the , lining of § llk
dresses , the petticoat .underneath , stockings ,
blouse , bonnet , and jiajasol all in one color.
Tiny bet es cavered with lizards qr snake
skin are mounted with silver trimmings , and
filled tvjth flno perfumes of lavendar. salts ,
Some of these arc very flat and so small that
they can be easily slipped Into the hand un
derneath the glove.
FASHIONS IX MEX'S II'E/IK.
The materials used for both single andj
double-breasted Jackets are largely twist
twill flannels , serges In fancy weaves and
Scotch homespuns.
Whlto duck trousers for outdoor games
are found too stiff , hot and uncomfortable ,
and , while they are eminently proper on a
yacht , they will be gradually discarded on
the lawn or In games.
The cap for outdoor use Is of the yachting
shape , a little more flat than last year. The
"Cambridge" Is a new shape brought from
London , and has a graceful , careless appear
ance , well adapted for the purpose.
The tennis Jacket , which only a short time
ago was so startling In Us broad stripes
of glaring colors as to become known as a
"blazer , " has been so toned down that it
may be worn without causing any special
comment.
For suits the English "shrunk finish" In
cricket cloth Is best adapted on account of
flrmncss. The colorings are light gray or
brown , having navy or light-blue and black
narrow stripes , or the same stripes on a
white ground.
Leather belts are 'fashionable. ' They may
have cither covered or uncovered rings , or
they may be plain , though the former are
preferred. The widths are V& , 1 % and 2
Inches. Plain calf are the most common ,
though morocco. Imitation alligator nnd
pigskin nro new , and In dark tan are hand
some.
Trousers must bo very long , and are
turned up at the bottom. They have three
loops , ono on each side and ono at the back ,
to allow the bolt to pass through , and In no
case , of course , Is It proper to wear suspend
ers with a tennis suit. Trousers have two
sldo , but no hip pockets. They must bo
made to fit full and loose , to allow for
shrinking.
Striped silk belts are passe. Plain blacker
or navy blue , and the. same having a cluster
of very tine hair line stripes running length-
wlso , wll | bo worn. The width Is two to
two and one-half Inches. They buckle
with two narrow straps In front , which are
covered with the end of the belt , giving It
the appearance of a black silk sash.
Plain white serges having a self strlpo of
a fancy weave such as basket , mater honeyr
comb , and delicate hair lines In colors op
either side , are largely used for double-
breasted Jackets. Thlsv materh ) Is heavy
enough to bo used for trousers , which must
match the JacketJbo ] icolor and pattern.
Homespuns are mud * 'In plain colors , with
trousers to match.
The tennis shirts of | today are made of
Madras , zephyr or * cheVlot cloth. They
have a turndown collar , fastened on ; and
the sleeves are flnlswd with half cuffs.
They are not starchedKoxcept the collar nnd
cuffs ) , but ore "pri's'sba ' ' soft. " In color blue
Is the most popular , inhlch may bo plain ,
striped or figured. riKK and dull heliotrope
come next , cither PVjnor ] figured , and buff
IUJA
last.
t
Corn never lookei Bbtter In Johnson and
Pawnee counties abrlhls time of the year
than It docs "now.tTntrJstand Is perfect and
the weather has beoniK , > favorable to culti
vation that the 'crop 1nr'fr'eo from weeds.
I MPERIAL
HAIR1REGENERATOR
la a beautiful coloring laseven slirulcg. Tlui
nisaENEIlATOIl restores gray hair to the orlR-
Inal , and glv < n color und lost vitality to bleach-
cJ. dyed And epolleU hair. The beard cim ho
colored uuccevatully cm * account of Its unique
qunlllteu of CLEANLINESS , UUIlAniMTY and
NATUHALNEfaS. COLDHSl
1. III AClt 6 LIClllT CHESTNUT.
2. UAHK IJIIOWN. 6. OOI.D IILONU.
5. MEDIUM DROWN. 7. ASH IH.ONU.
1. CHESTNUT. l'IUCK..nM.
We make applications a niwclalty , and have
the flnevt private room * In the city , ,
292 5th AVE. , N. Y. ;
Sold by druirtliU and hair ilrtsseri. We have
no branch oflice * In Now York.
( \
TJionbovo p/oturo wn tulton from n recent p/iotojrrnpJi of Almo. Af. Vnfo nnd sr/t'oa I > nt n taint Iilonofhe *
rnro lovol/nosn. .At & 1 yoarsot nye a'lo tloas not look rniro tfinn IS. Slio is sti/d ( o ( > : > fie JiioHt Oouut/ftil woiaart
llv./nr. Slio wnB not bora boautJful Iior/iiarvolo us ro/nod/os Jiui-o doiio Uiovorlc. . Itoiiil of tiiozn tiol6\v.
MMR. M.
= A.
HER EXCELSIOR COMPLEXION REMEDIES THE FOUNTAIN OF
YOUTH AND BEAUTY.
Mine. M. Yale , Winner of the World's Fair Medal and Diplonm ALL HAIL TO BEAUTYI
ZIuio. M , Yulo's Exooltitor GamitJoxlo-i Ho/nod 01 , for purity mill liljf'.i olnss ntorlt , so any tlio A'ut/ofml Judyoa
on AwnnlHt itllotttorooni-iloxlnti cjtnyilloa. bitli dj uj t/o mill focjlyn , o-tiol ts mdjvfn.on. . .
VISAUTY CUTSflVA.TK 13 T/io u-oiiion nnd imi/dojia of o\'ory unf/o/i who don/r rt Itoooinoltontitltttl are ndf
vlaoil to iiso tJioso ( rrontofit of Comploxlcin Itoiiiodloa. A'ATWKAJi UEA.UTY la developed ! > . > - every iippl/oiition- *
27ZB GOAtl'LBXlOX booomoB rndluntly bountiful.
YOUTH RESTORED. WRINKLES REMOVED ,
THIN FACES MADE PLUMP.
Trade-Mine. M.Yale's Skin Food-Mnrk
Wrinkles , sunken checks , every troco of npe
arc removed with lime. Ynle's Skin Food. It
mutters not how ol < l the person Is or how deep
the wrinkles. The Skin Foal will do the woik to
the entire satisfaction of nil who use It , ns this
Is the genuine nnd only ahsorbnnt Food In the
world. The public arc cautioned ngnlnst many
worthless Imitations that nro on the market. See
that every jar has Mme , Yale's name on It.
Price , * 1.00 nnd $3.00.
Freckles and La Frccltln.
Everyone lias heard and read of the wonderful
La Freckla , the only euro for freckles In the
world. . In from three dnys to ono week It will
remove every trace of them , leaving the skin ns
pure and clc-nr ns cream nnd strawberries. Any
man , woman or child with freckles on their skin
Is hereby absolutely guaranteed that La Ireckla
Is u Kemilne cuie. nnd will do exactly as stated
In this nrtlcle. There nro no complexions BO
beautiful ns those that freckle after La Fiecklu
has removed the freckles. One bottle Is suillclent
In most cases to do the work. A few applica
tions will remove tnn and sunburn. Trice. Jl.OO.
Mine. Yale's Complexion Bleach.
A guaranteed euro for Moth Patches , Sallow-
ness nnd nil decelerations of the skin. Guar
anteed to make nny complexion naturally clear
and beautiful. Price , $2.00 per bottle.
Mine. M. Yale's
Trade BUST FOOD Mark
Will develop nnd make n thin neck or bust
plump , white ami beautiful. It feeds through
the pores , fattening and building up the llenh.
strengthening nnd stimulating the muscles , until
the beauty of the parts are perfect , Price , $1.50
and $3.00 per Jar.
Skin Diseases Cured.
Mme. M. Yale's SPECIAL LOTION nnd BPn-
CIAL OINTMENT n gunmnteed cure for Illnck-
heads. Pimples and Blcln Diseases.
Mme Yu I a has made the study of Skin Pis-
eases n special branch of her work , nnd It Is to
her effords that solcncc owes nn everlasting debt
of gratitude. Her success In curing skin diseases
needs no sp"Clnl mention , as It Is generally
known that some of the most Milllful physicians
living recommend Mme. Yale's Bpccial Lotion
and Hpccla' Ointment before any other mcdlclnu
In the or id for curing Ijlackhends. Pimples ami
all mann'-r of Bkln Dlseutcs , They uro guurun-
Wed. Price , $1.00 each.
The Hair Conquered ,
Mme. M. Yale's
EXOEiLxSlOR
HAIR TONIC
Its I\flghty \ ! Ruler *
For the first tlmo In the history of the world
pray hair Is turned tinck to Its oilglnal color
without dye. Mme. M. Ynle's Excelnlor Hair
Tonic has the marvelous power of giving the
natural coloring matter circulation , conne < iuenlly
restoring the gray hairs to their original color.
Its complete mastery over the human hair has
created a sensation nil over the world that will
never bo forgotten , ns Its discovery has been
hailed with endless Joy no moio giny hair to
worry over and no more necessity of using In
jurious hair djes. Mme. Ynle's skill as n chem
ist has never l > een equaled by man or woman
slid stands nlono a queen ami a conqueror. The
whole world bows down to her as n pioneer nnd
scientist , Excelsior Hair Tnnto will stop any case
of falling hair in from tncny-four hours to one
week. It Is a guaranteed euro for nny ailment
of the hair or disease of the scalp.
IT IS ADSOLUTELY PURE , and can bo taken
Internally without Injury. It contains nothing
gle.isy or sticky , has a delightful dellcntu odor ,
nnd makes the most perfect hnlr dressing known
for general use. It will keep the hair In cml for
days nnd eicates a luxuriant , glossy growth nnd
preserves Its natural color until the end of your
days. After the hair has been restored to Its
natural color It Is not necessary to continue Its
use except for general use , as the hair grows out
Its natural color from the roots the mme u
when a child , livery bottle Is guaranteed genu
ine. UUWAItn OF IMITATIONS. Muka KUIO
that every bottle U labeled Mme. M. Ynle's Ex-
celslor Hair Tonic. Pi Ice , $1.00 per bottle ; 0 for
$5.00.
Mine. Yale's Fertill/cr.
A guaranteed cure for costlpntlon. Them has
positively tuner been a medicine like It. No case
will resist It. Pleasant to take. Price , 11.SO.
Mme. Ynle's Hemedles are guaranteed abso
lutely pure ; contain no poison or Injurious sub
stances of tiny nature ; can lie used with absolute
success by men , women and children.
Cure for Superfluous Hair.
MME. YALE'S GREAT SCOTT.
The only permanent cure for superfluous hal
in the world. Takes but live minutes to do thd
work. Does not Irrltato or leave n trnco of ve *
having had any before Its application. Lndlig
annoyed nlth this unsightly disfigurement are nd
vised to use It nt once and they will ba mor <
than delighted. Price , $5.00.
Mine. M. Yale's Eyebrow and Eyc
lash Grower
Creates n thick nnd luxuriant growth of ye *
brows , makes the lashes grow long , thick and
culling. The only eye beautlflcr known. Th
eyebrows nnd lashes arc a very Important part
of beauty. Price , $1.00.
Mine. Yale's Hand Whitencr
Makes th hands Illy white , the skin fine grained ,
soft , delicate and beautiful. Price , $1,00 per boU
tic.
Mine. M. Yale's Hlood Tonic.
As the beauty of the complexion depends great *
ly on the purity of the blood , Mme. Yale's UlocxJ
Tonic fhoulil bo used by everyone. It IB by faf
Mine. Yale's Almond Blossom Conn
plexion Cream.
This Is ono of Mme. Yale's most popular rcm i
dies ; It makes the skin line grained and keeps If
soft , whlto and beautiful. Price , $1,00.
Mine. Yale's Mole and Wart
Extractor
Itemoves moles nnd warts In a few applications !
huiinU'pB and wonderful. Price , $3.00.
Friiitcura.
To every woman suffering with female wcaki
nesH of any kind Krultcurn In guaranteed to maki
n speedy and permanent cure. Ono bottle will
upcuk for Itpc'lf. Price , $1.00.
Mine. Yale's Face Powders
Arc the host In the world Drunctte. Flesh an !
White CO ceiitw box.
Mine. Yale's Complexion Soap.
A treasure and a necessity for the. toilet. U
cents.
DRUGGISTS SELxL * AND INDORSE THEM.
.t CO. , IGfJi nrid ) ( iiiclua St > . . MliNOIIAViT X V/OICKKH , Kith nnd / / ou'iir.Cf.VSr.JK nitlin OO. ,
mill I'nriiiiiui 11' . .7. HUOltlSS , U4f/i find I'liriuuiif GUI S. JJ..1V/S. Coiuiolllut'tH , innl hy all lieu / < .
\vholouitloby * : . IS. 1111UCK iV : CO , , find UlOllAttliaOX liltUCS CO.
Ask your Druggist for Mmo. Ynlo's Hoauty Journal. Qivon away froo.
MME , M , YALE , BEAUTY AND COMPLEXION SPECIALIST ,
Temple of Beauty , 14O BUiLo-st , . , Ohloago ,
EXACT SIZE ' PERFECTOJ
THE MERCANTILE IS THE F4YOR1TB TEH CENT CIGAR.
ale bi all First Class Dealers. Munufucturod by the
F. U. UICE MERCANTILE CIGAR CO. ,
Factory No. 301 , St. Louis , Mo.
*