V
THE OMAHA DAILY BlSti : SUNDAY , KKBIirARY 6 , -SIXT13KN ) PAGER ,
'
"GET OFF THE WALK , PLEASE
Cataclysmic Ghan cs in Fomlnino Apparel
Threaten the World ,
THE CRINOLINE ALREADY IN BLOOM
CCho Riutln of Tumultuous Hldrti Ilenrtl In
the Ij ril 1'rdty Frock * for Children
Talk nn Tiling * I'ciiiluliiH
I'criotmlltln.
Tlits h a period of suspense in dress
Cataclysmic changes arc threatenedtind
everyone in waiting anxiously the edicts
from the ptirllument of fashion. Just
now the law makers nro Involved In in
terned no strife , With the French
authorities pulling ono way and the
English authorities pulling the other , a
compromise- scorns probable on the modes
nf the ISM period. Novorbefore , within
n year , did the female form divine so ap
preciably alter its outlines as during the
last twelvemonth. The idolized waist ,
lhat lias been the pedal point upon which
nil dress harmonies have been founded ,
lias been deposed and dishonored. Wo
Imvo sacrificed food , comfort , health ,
nlmost life itself , to thlswalbt ideal , says
the New York Sun , and now , when its
dearly-bought slendernesslH not entirely
'ost beneath the straight draperies of an
Kmpiro gown , it is sacrificed to the
short , broad outlines of the fashionable
bodice , with its folded belt and wrinkled
corselet. The modiHto , who has for
years ruthlessly fitted down our bodices
to the prescribed modish shape , no mat
ter what hhapo wo might bo ourt-ches ,
lias suddenly loosened the torturing steels
nnd bones , and gives us a waist line two
inches above and more than tuo inches
broader than anything wo htivo been al
lowed to possess in a quarter of a
century. Ore might fancy that the
fashion goddess had repented of her fol-
lie.s and was In lenguo with the dress re
formers , were it not lhat the skirt takes
on new extravagances daily in increase
ratio to the reasonableness of the bodice ,
nnd that the stcevo develops eeeenjtriei-
tles galore , the latest being a great full
ness about the elbow instead of the
hlioulder. It is not quite a year now
Hinco the study of evolution * in dress
prompted the prophecy that the crinoline -
line was imminent. For a time the
Bkirts grow even more bcant , and the
thoughtless laughed in derision. It was
but hastening the day when the petticoat
turbulent should surge and tlow arbitrua-
lly about us , for with the lowest ebb of
hkimplness the reaction was at hand.
Now the newest Parisian skirts are fourteen -
teen and a half yards around the edge ,
arc lined throughout with crinoline
muslin , and stand out stillly all around ,
with the bulk of fullness at the back.
It cannot bo denied that the new mode
1ms , despite its grotesquancbs , certain
elegant nnd delirato features gratifying
to the sense of the drons epicure. The
woman clad in the close , short skirt
lacks the essentially feminlno and
precious frou-frou and rustle. She walks
iil'l-silently , like a man. The woman in
the wide petticoat is heard whispering
down the staircase , rustling along the
passages , murmuring through the mazes
of the dance , like a summer forest whoso
mystic voices arc never still. Ono
might write- poem about this melody
of the tumultuous petticoat , which , if it
is not natural or classic , is engagingly
artificial and symbolic of exceeding
daintiness and leisure and idle grace.
The average woman is appalled at the
demands of the now skirt. It requires
in arrangement a multiplicity of frills
and no end of petticoats to give it de
sired amplitude. It is hopelessly un
manageable outside a carriage. It will
need endless brushing and icfurblshing
nnd caro. But the woman who drives
and keeps a majd will rejoice in all this
nicety of attention , which distinguishes
the lilies of life from the faithful , hard
working , often talented , but hopelessly
prosaic average woman.
All the now wash materials arc par
ticularly pretty for children's frocks
nnd short lengths of handsome fabrics
sold at a reduction may bo made up
most effectively for young girls. Ono
advantage in little children's attire is
that the mode varies but slightly from
ono season to the next , so that it is quite
safe to begin on the simple gowns for
the summer now when the dressmakers
and seamstresses are not busy. The
prettiest little organdie gowns are
made with a low-nocked , shortrwaistod
bodice about which is gathered a full
rufllo , edged with lace and falling low
enough to entirely conceal the waist.
The little skirt is gathered and finished
With n plain horn or within little frill.
A pretty model for u crishmore dross
has a pointed capeliko rufllo gathered
from the neck and falling quito to the
belt in the front and at tlio back. The
ruillo is finished on the cdgo with a
hcallop embroidered by hand nnd having
rows of dots worked in following the outline -
line of the scallop. Another pretty idea
is a gathered waist of wool belted with
many straps of velvet and worn over a
white embroidered guimpo. The gown ,
of soft fawn challic , with green leaves
and tiny flowerets , has its trimming of
thin velvet , or a plain blue wool , light ,
is made stylish with a decoration of
brown velvet. Another pretty idea fora
ohallio is copied from a drossy little
froek of yellow bongallno. The skirt is
plain. The waist is shirred at the front
and back , leaving n standingruflloof the
goods. About the waist is a broad bolt
made of pipings of bcngalino about half
an inch wide , with rows of gold braid be
tween. This belt does not moot in front
or at the baek , but Is finished on either
nido the shirred space with two rosottcs
of the braid. A full ruillo gathers over
the shoulder , stopping at the shirring ,
and Is finished on the cdgo with tha-
brald. Uuby ribbon in velvet or satin
might roplnco the gold on a figured
drops and , matching some color in the
material , inuko a pretty addition to the
Hummer dress ,
*
* „
Young folks will always enjoy a dans-
Ing party moro than any otlior form of
entertainment. Yet to give a largo
dance is very expensive , and to go to
ono likowipo means extra expenditure
as well as Into hours and rich viands
that are not the best things in the world
for tlip lads and lassies who are just
budding into men and women.
Of course the society man and the
( lobutantn who enter upon a round of
winter gayetles as the sum total of their
existence- can recuperate by sleeping
late the next day and thus make up for
the dissipation of the previous night ,
but there are many hnppy-hoartod
young folks who are not buttortlics of
this sort , yet who enjoy the fun as well
as their moro favored brothers and sisters -
tors and would bo only too glad of a
chunco for an evening's enjoyment now
Riid then if it didn't cost too much.
By costing too much , it docs not mean
the actual expense of thq refreshments
or the music , but the damage the small
diuico does to the furniture and -carpets
of the room whcroln it is usually given.
To counteract this all the belongings ,
Bavo a few chairs , should bo removed
and a crash laid over the carpet. If it
were possible to obtain a vacant un-
ourpeted room it could soon bo trans-
. a. & > „
.A.3XTD
OF *
T T
LJ to the fact that it is the
t&jfr
IN UNITED
FOR MANUFACTURES AND MERCHANDISE OF EVERY DESCRIPTION , ESPECIALLY
BOOTS AND SHOES , FANCY AND STAPLE DRY GOODS , SADDLERY AND HARNESS ,
MEN'S & CHILDREN'S CLOTHING , FURNITURE AND UPHOLSTERY , GROCERIES AND PROVISIONS ,
CAR.PETS AND CURTAINS , HARDWARE , ARMS & CUTLERY , DRUGS AND CHEMICALS ,
CARRIAGES AND VEHICLES , RAILROAD AND STREET CARS , DIAMONDS , JEWELRY & WATCHES ,
BLANK BOOKS & LITHOGRAPHY , MACHINERY--Mining' , Steam , Electric WOODENWARS , STEAMWAH.E . ,
SMOKING & CHEWING TOBACCO , AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS , GASKETS AND UNDERTAKERS' SUPPLIES ,
DOMESTIC AND IMPORTED CIGARS.
ST . LOUIS is the Commercial and Manufacturing Metropolis of the West , South-West and South ; it is the best RAIL
ROAD CENTER in the United Statesjits stock of merchandise are unsurpassed in either extent or varietyand buy *
ers can effect a large saving by placing their orders in St. Louis. The increase in manufacturing and shipping re
turns bear tribute to the eminence of St. Louis as a MANUFACTURING and DISTRIBUTING point.
In all matters of Transportation , Freight Rates , Etc. , St. Louis
Manufacturers and .Merchants offer inducements
unexcelljejl by any other city.
NOTICE TO INVESTORS. This announcement is sued by the Bureau of Information of the AUTUMNAL FES <
TIVITIES ASSOCIATION of the City of St. Louis , the Bureau being charged with the duty
of making known to the world the extraordinary advantages that those trading with St. Louis
The year 1892 was one of unprecedented growth and prosperity in St. Louis. More enjoy. It invites buyers to come to St. Louis or open up correspondence with its merchants.
than 5,400 buildings were erected , as compared with 4,800 in 1891 , and 4,200 in 1890. The Any other information that may be desired as to mercantile matters will be given by tha
new buildings erected in 1892 cost upwards of THIRTY MILLION dollars , and the'demand fur Bureau , o'r inquiries referred to proper quarters.
office buildings and residences continues exceptional. No city in America offers such excellent THE BUREAU OF INFORMATION
inducements to large and small capitalists with such absolute security. ,
202 Mermod & Jaccnrd Building , STXOUIS , MO.
formed into a ball room , whore there
would bo no danger of upsetting any of
the knick-knacks that are to bo found in
the living rooms of all houses. Such an
arrangement as this would require no
moving of furniture and would be par
ticularly appreciated by the awkward
young man who always falls over some
thing.
Refreshments can bo either cake and
ice cream , the staple and always grate
ful frozen delicacy ; fruit and wafers ,
cake nnd lemonade , crackers and choco
late served with whipped cream , or
sandwiches and coffee or bouillon , if the
weather is very cold. Two things are
quito sufficient and a piano the entire
orchestra that is required. Adhering
to these simple rules many a gay little
affair , beginning and ending early and
affording much pleasure for very little
expense , may bo given during the
winter.
*
Young girls , who marry against the
will of reasonable and loving parents ,
can make * up their minds that disap
pointment if not something worse , will
bo their lot , writes Vera Bornardloro in
an article on "American Girls and
Titles , " in the February Ladies'Home
Journal. As far as the foreigner is concerned -
corned , ho may bo dazzled , captivated
by the beauty , grace , intellect and inde
pendent ideas and manners in the
American woman , but this very inde
pendence which ho seemingly admires
ir her while she is his friend or his bo
trbthed ho will not tolerate in his wife.
And the young girl , who sees but the
varnished oxlorior of elegant manners ,
the pcrsuasivo and subtle compliment ,
will soon learn , to her own disappoint
ment , that there lies u substance of a
very realistic and unpleasant nature bo
ncath this highly colored rainbow tissue
of her romantic imagination. There are
but two courses to pursue to learn from
the experience of others , or from your
own.
own.Tho American girl need look no further
than her own country to find the noblest ,
the grandest typo of manhood on earth.
Here man respects and honors her
womanhood , is willing to labor nnd
make sacritlcos for her happiness , bids
her cheerfully to bo a coworker , an hon
ored guest of public life , when occasion
demands , and loves her , not for what
she has , but for what she Is.
-
When nature has neglected to crown
n head with silicon tresses , ono can , In
some measure , remedy the slight by
persistently brushing the hair. A good
quality of brush should bo used. A hair
brush should Imvo long , soft bristles
that will go through the hair and touch
the scalp ; then e\cry particle of dust
and dirt can bo removed. A comb is
seldom necessary if the hair is carefully
brushed ; if used at all the comb should
bo a coarse ono.
A fine comb irritates the scalp to a
hurtful degree , and It is quito apt to
break and split the hair. Brush the
hair for flvo minutes before retiring at
night , braid it loosely and permit It to
hang. Never sleep with hairpins in tbo
huh1.
huh1.Tho
The hnlrplns to use are made of bono ;
amber or tortoise shell. Coarse , sharn
pins out and tour the hair and shouhl
never bo used. It is nn old-thno saying
and well worth trying that " 100 strokes
of the hairbrush every night will make
ono's hair like silk. "
*
The right of women to "wear th
brooches" actually as well as metaphor !
S
cally , has recently been demonstrated ,
if priority of invention give priority of
jlaim. "By the patient nrchrcological
research carried on by ono woman , " says
the Pall Mall Gazette , "it has been
proved , for the gratification of all
ivomon , that the bifurcated nether gar
ment supposed to be specially distinctive
of the masculine toilet rightly belongs
to the feminine dress. The women of
Judah , it seems , wore the first wearers
of the garment in bifurcated form , ana
man , perceiving the convenience and
comfort of this article of dross , evolved
by the superior intelligence of woman ,
appropriated the same for his own use ,
and doomed his womankind to encumber
their limbs with flowing robes which
render it impossible for thorn to cope
with man in the useful occupations. "
4
* *
Every bride knows her power ; every
wife comes to know her weakness , writes
Octavo Thanot in a delightful article on
"That Man : Your Husband" in the
February Ladies' Homo Journal. A
good proportion of the heartbreak of
early married lifo is duo to the ferment
of this knowledge. The poor child whoso
lover gave up his cigars and his club
with such angelic meekness , finds that
her husband can smoke like a chimney ,
and leave her alone nights in order to
upend the evening with his men friends.
She imagines that ho cares less for her
than ho did , which is a mistake , in most
cases ; seven out of ten men love their
wives better than their sweethearts. It
is simply that her presence is not the
absorbing excitement that it was when
loyo was now. The chances are that the
wife is bocomo'a dozen times moro neces
sary to the man than over the sweet
heart could have been. Ho would feel
her death far moro keenly , but ho docs
not need to adjure his heart to "sit still"
whenever his fancy summons her imago.
In short , Bho is become the bread of ex
istence in place of the elixir , but there
is no question that moro fuss is made
over the elixir.
*
* *
The scrupulous rogara for truth of the
Chicago newspapers has long been well
known , but none of them has hitherto
gone so far as the Evening Mall when
it declares that Chicago women Imvo
the smallest and prettiest feet in all
America. The Mail prints alleged dia
grams of the feet of Mrs. P. D. Armour ,
Mrs. Daniel Goodwin , Mrs. Reginald do
ICovon and several other women to prove
its statements. It Bays that Boston
women got pigeon-toed turning so many
corners and that Now York women spoil
their foot by climbing olovatcd railroad
stairs and that Philadelphia women go
to sleep standing and mitten out their
feet , but only on the shores of Luke
Michigan do women Imvo beautiful and
symmetrical under pinning.
* *
Mrs. Carlisle , wife of the man who , It
is now conceded , Is to be Mr. Cleveland's
secretary of the treasury , has for years
l > eon her husband's chief counselor and
helper. "Few men , " says a Washington
correspondent , "over lived who owed
moro to a woman than ho to Mrs. Car
lisle , and she has always boon intensely
ambitious for him. It is likely that sha
had great weight in deciding the
question of his going into the cabinet of
.Mr. Cleveland , as she has had in most
others in Mr. Carlisle's political career.
Mrs. Carlisle knows public men nnd af
fairs as well as Mrs. Ilotty Green under
stands railway matters. She is neither
young nor handsome , but she is very
StSSI1&K3rf : ' f3UlLf.TVI <
agreeable and always knows what is best
/or John Griflln Carlisle. "
Jfotei of the Fashions. ,
The poke bonnet's return is a cer
tainty.
Silk bed shoots are a caprice of
fashion.
Veils of rich purple line are very
fashionable and are worn with black
toilette's.
Goldenrod and primrose shades are
considered modish as the color schemes
in tea robes.
After the crinoline comes the man who
is in a hurry to get down town and will
probably have to walk in the streets.
Tufts of bright fecarlot feathers with a
black satin butterfly in the center are
worn in the hair at fashionable enter
tainments.
What use is it for a woman to try to
enjoy a play when she is wearing a pair
of kid boots that she has just bought that
afternoon ?
Shaded velvet sleeves with contrasting
costumes , and plaid velvet sleeves with
blue or green cloth gowns , seem to bo
particularly popular.
The girl who wears a high hat in the
front seats at the theater will never get
anywhere near the front seats in heaven.
At least that's what the man behind her
thinks.
Hat pins have become so elaborate
that thieves' court them. Numerous in
stances have occurred of women's hats
being rilled while they wore on their
heads.
One very marked feature of the sea
son's- fashions is the fancy for wearing
dark gowns , with coats or capes of vel
vet in rich , bright shades , nnd very
ornate and brilliant in decoration.
Double-faced shot ribbons in velvet
and satin are now , and ono of the hand
somest of Virot's recent .hats has the
shape stretched tightly with satin in a
pale tint and adorned1 'with black lace ,
fur and ribbon of this sOrt ! . '
The old boll skirt unoj'i bo milled or
cut off and enlarged with a Spanish
flounce , and the sleeves3 can bo easily
changed. In the matter pf bodices wo
can bo in the height c\fV/asliion by wear
ing n contrasting velvet waist with the
old skirt. , i
Collarettes of bright ; ribbon plaited or
two rufllcs of silk scolloped on the
edges and buttonholcdjwljh colored silk
nro worn to brighten dark iiouso dresses ,
and long bows of chiff shirred and
tucked into shape , comet ) iu , all bright
tints for indoor wear.
A very elegant and fftylfth now shoo
Is a walking boot ofDatont leather
without the least adornment in the way
of tips or brogues , but cut in long ele
gant shape , with a thick English solo
nnd heel. It has a cloth top , with a
strap or buckle under the instep to llm-
tate the neatest fitting gaiter.
Now costumes in any shade have vel
vet bodices of the same color , either the
tame shade or a tone darker. This is a
particularly happy combination In bis
cuit color or bolgo. The skirt is of
cloth , which , by the wity , promises to
continue its popularity all the spring ,
and may have folds of the bodice in velvet
or the seams pined up and down with
velvet cords. The corsage is a velvet ,
a shade or two darker , and no matter
how simply draped and arranged it
makes a very pretty costume.
The majority of the bodices and
gowna now being fashioned by leading
modistes are made with n round bias ,
seamless back , with very wide flohulike
rovers going over the shoulders , the
rovers deeply notched in front like a
man's coat-collar. The skirts are
shorter , with cither a cornet back or
the moro familiar shape with a bias
seam , this scam , however , being hidden
by largo plaits , and. not revealed as It
was on the original boll model.
There are made some exceedingly
dainty bodices for evening wear which
are most becoming and useful whan the
high bodice of the silk dress is removed
for the purpose of making a smartening
change. The bodices of cream and ivory
white lace are a fascinating feature of
present fashions. They nro made high
as well as low , square and half high , but
always with hugh airy puffs for sleeves ,
these reaching from the shoulder to
above the elbow.
The now "slindow" velvets are the ad
miration of all , since their folds in their
alternations of light and shade are a
vision of splendor with their superb rain
bow hues. They find a foil in the sub
dued shadings of autumn leaves rich
amber brown , garnet , iris purple , greens
in all shades of foliage , cyclamen , petu
nia , the yellow of the goldenrod , damask
rose , etc. many of the beautiful colors
when in velvet being accentuated by a
still brighter background , glhnpfOi of
which are obtained through the rich
black or dark brown pile.
TWO HOUSE DRESSES.
The figure at the loft In the accom
panying engraving wears a princess cos
tume of ohvo brown cloth with velvet
sleeves. The puffed sleeves and the nar
row vest are of dark green velvet and
the plastron Is of omun colored surah.
The trimming u ed , both the passe
menterie nnd the marabout , is black.
The plastron is slightly plaited
and is bordered by a narrow
band of velvet , which clasps at
the waist and lends the nppenranco of a
vest. The standing collar is of cream
colored siirnh and is partly covered by
41 > o feather trimming. There are tight
luting undorsleevcs.
The costume at the right Is of navy
blue cheviot , set off with black silk
pnbsetnontorio , nnd having n vest of
salmon colored Bilk. The bottom of the
skirt has a balayouse , nnd is trimmed
with a double gathered ruche of the ma
terial. The braid glrdlo is knotted at
the loft as in the picture , and hangs In
What Brand is on your Collar ?
It ought to bo , if you wear
IS IT THE a 35-cent collar ; for they
are superior to any ether
iJG-ccnt collar made. . . .
It ought to bo , if you wear n
IS IT THE 2O-ccut collar ; for this
brand is the very beat value
to bo had in collars for
AND 2O cents ; three for CO cts.
Wo collar , whatever bolts brand ,
should bo worn on any other
make of shirt than the - - - - - - , . . -
„ „ .
InAnlt.
This ready-midc shirt will certainly tult you. It U a sure fit. We make it and we know.
. ClllCtt CoOn & Co.
Waleh our idvertliementi next week. , .
Wltboutmoncjrnndnltlio'it prl3i.
To the
You nro not wo I , and liaviinj
nioni'y or tlrai ) to see i iln or
Cut out thu ruui.c in liit''d huri ) .
rnr MH-AL tw
NK\V YOKK
1'nMollona iiostnt oinl.
Wrltn your nwn numu jn tli9
other si In of thooaril ; put It In
thu 1'oit Ullluf , mid by rulurn
niiillyon will KOI n letter unJ
MHIIU irioiltuliio Unit will do von
pood. Try It uuil tell ycur
frleuiH
two long ends to a foot from the cdgo of
the skirt. The '
leg-o'-mutton sleeves
button at the wrintu nnd are trimmed
there with trimming similar to the
giidlo.
For homo wear , summer drcssos may
bo made warm-looking by adding velvet
Hleoves and trimming ! * to thorn. Mouses
also , instead of being made of light silk
now , are made of velvet or velveteen.
They are made over a tight lining to
prevent bagging. If the lining bo boned
no corfcot is needed beneath them. They
look prettiest fastened at the side , and
may bo trimmed round with a narrow
band of fur if intended to bo wet n out
of doors. '
JVinlnliKi rrr oimllllf .
Mrs. P. T. Uarnum is at Hot Springs ,
N. D. , where she is nursing u sprained
unkle.
Mrs. John Mnckav is most unassuming
in her nttiio and t-eldom wouru jewels Of
any kind. Her favorite color-in pimrl.
Mine. Carnet , wife of the French presi
dent , smokes eigarottci nftc-r her meals ,
but only mild nnd -
u bWvot-H-cntcd va
riety.
Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett bo-
Hoves in the boucllta of walking as anox-
crt'ibc , nnd tnkes a long "constitutional"
before breakfast every morning.
The empress of Austria has begun the
study of the modern Greek languageand
literature. She has already made con
siderable progrosd , a nhe is olovur nnd
learns easily.
A young lady in Newark , whoso nnklo
\\as injured during u wallby her part
ner accidentally kicking her , wantH
Sfi.OOO damages from him. The way of
the whirled.
Mrs. Sarah KIpplo of Scranton , Pa. ,
still persists in hmoklng , after bovonty-
nlno years' experience of the noxious
and deadly wood. As Bho is only UU
years old , there is , however , tlmo for
her to reform.
Miss Nollle Ahcrn will bo the next
state librarian at Indianapolis. This
was dccldod at a cauuus of the two
bonbon , In which sixty-four votoa were
oust for Mish Aliorii and only eight for
the horrid male candidate.
The "No 0" Wht-olcr & , Wilson , with lt
perfected toiilsons , uwmr and lower , ia tbo
only lock-situh inacHlno X
that makes an
/J
/
t.l.ibtk' scum. J t Is tlio drcssmakcr'n fuvorlto1 |
on that account. Hold by Geo. W Lancaster
ft Co. , Sit South Sixteenth street.