i
MrafeHElf -
Colors of the Moment
As the season advances green and
blue Ecparalely and again combined
my bo said to be the colors of the
moment Pongees and raw silks are
popular fabrics A model of dark
blue pongee with a raised stripe run
ning through it has a skirt with very
little goring and it is tucked horizon
tally all the way around the hip hav
ing a box plait down the center of
the front and back These tucks are
stitched about six or eight inches in
deptli and then allowed to flare with
four deep tucks running vertically
round the bottom each of these tucks
headed by half inch wide row of entre
doux The skirt is cut straight
around and the bodice which is
tucked in half inch tucks blouses
slightly over the belt A beautiful
white Irish lace yoke and the collar
complete the neck and the sleeves are
gathered into the jroke quite full and
fall to the line of the elbow Here
again is a puff and below is a tight
fitted sleeve of Irish crochet
Combination Under Garment
The advantage that the combined
under garment means in a reduction of
bulk at the waist and over the hips
is a well recognized one and is ap
parent at a glance The model illus
4yJI
Girls Russian Dress
- Simple little frocks with skirts and
body portions in one suit little girls
admirably well and are eminently
fashionable This one is peculiarly
attractive aud can be made with the
slightly open
tfai ipsa
111
2J4UfcFa
Itl J
trated appeals to
every woman who
aims to keep her
outlines as nearly
perfect as possible
and is not in need
of fullness over
the bust As shown
it is made of nain
sook with a low
round neck but ic
can be cut with the square outline or
in V shape or left high as may be pre
ferred and all materials in vogue for
undcrwear are appropriate In the
case of the model the trimming is
embroidery but here again a choice
is allowed as washable laces are much
liked and frills of the material also
are in vogue
The garment is
backs side backs
made with front
under arm gores
and back portion of skirt The front
is fiited by means of double darts so
making the garment absolutely
smooth fitting and the necessary full
ness at the back is provided by the
skirt which is gathered at its upper
edge and joined to the body portion
The quantity of material required
for the medium size is 3 yards 3G
inches wide with 3 yards of wide
embroidery 3 yards of narrow 2
yards of insertion and 2 yards of
beading to trim as illustrated
Leather Trimming
A decided novelty in the way of
trimming for some of the new nuns
veiling waists are the turn over collar
and cuffs made of soft leather An
example of this is a pale blue waist
trimmed with collar and cuffs cf sort
tan leather in shape somewhat similar
to the embroidered and lace collar and
cuff sets so much in demand during
the spring and summer season
Leather trimmings are being used to
some extent on the new tailored suits
and raincoats so that this novelty ma
meet with quite as much of a success
as a waist trimming as in the other
lines of ready made garments
square neck as
illustrated or be
rendered high by
the addition of the
shield and stand
ing collar and also
allows a choice of
the full length dou
ble sleeves or the
outer ones in half
length only The
model is made of
royal blue cash
mere with trimming cf embroidered
banding edged with black and is both
effective and durable but all the ma
terial in vogue for little girls dresses
are equally appropriate
The dress is made with front and
backs and is laid in a box plait at
center front and back with outward
turning lucks at each side the closing
being made invisibly at the back be
neath the box plait The long sleeves
are in bishop style gathered into
straighteufts while the outer ones are
in half length aud in bell shape The
shield is quite separate and when de
sired i ananged under the dress
closing Rt the center back
The quantity of material required
for the medium size 8 years is 5
yards 27 inches wide 5 yards 32
inches wide or 3 yards 44 inches wide
with iV i yards of banding to trim as
ollustrated
Washing Rugs
Good rugs may be washed repeated
ly without harming them In fact
washing a good rug only makes the
colors more mellow A writer in the
House Beautiful tells how to do it
successfully Tack the rug on a bit
of bare floor the back piazza being
is good a place as any Scrub thor
oughly vith warm ammonia suds and
rinse vith many clear waters until all
the soap is removed Let the rug dry
on the floor without removing the
tacks then take up and it will not
shrink roll nor pull out of shape
Misses Fancy 3Iouse
Broad shoulders make the latest
edict of fashion and are rendered ex
ceptionally attractive in this very
pretty blouse which includes the shal
low round yoke which also makes
one of the latest and newest features
The model i made
of tobacco brown
veiling with yoke
and cuffs of ecru
lace and the trim-
miner band of
silk embroidered
with little circles
and stitched wich
corticelli silk It
can however be re
produced in any
seasonable material and is quite as
well adapted to the odd waist as to
the frock The waist and sleeves are
both gathered at their upper edges
and joined to the band which closes
with the waist at the center fronf
while the yoke is closed at the left
shoulder seam The collar is one of
the new ones of the turn over sort
and can he slashed and worn with a
tie as illustrated or left plain as pre
ferred
The waist consists of the fitted lin
ing which is optional fronts back
sleeves yoke and trimming band
When the lining is used the sleeves
are faced on indicated lines to form
cuffs but when it is omitted cuffs of
the required depth are made separate
sleeves The waist is gathered at its
lower edge made to blouse slightly at
back as well as front and is closed in
visibly by means of buttons and loops
The quantity of material required
for the medium size is 3 yards 21
inches wide 3 yards 27 inches wide
or 1 yards 44 inches wide with
yards of all over lace for yoke and
cutis and yards of silk for trim
ming band
fytiffi lkfiS fflwer
A faded cotton dress can be made
white by boiling in cream of tartar
water
A little soap mixed with stove black
irg will produce better and more last
ing lustre than without
sideboards use tepid water containing
a small quantity of thymolin
The wax from dripping candles can
he removed from table linen by a
generous application of alcohol
Alum the size of a hickory nut dis
solved in a pint of starch will bright-
Fancy waists are always in demand
and this one has the merit of being
quite novel as well as eminently
graceful As illustrated it is made of
white silk with the yoke and cuffs of
cream colored lace over chiffon and
finished with applique the scarf of
white embroidered crepe de Chine fin
ished with a narrow ruche and edged
en the color in muslins ginghams and
calicoes after washing
The little soft cotton dish mops
make excellent dusters
Carved furniture which defies the
dust cloth can be made as attractive
as new by brushing it with a scit hair
brush dipped in kerosene
Short
rtypi
Fashion in Capes
circular capes are all the
fashion right now Those most in
vogue for early autumn weather are
of coarse lace any lace like Cluny
Bruge or point Vonise is in favor The
capes vary in length Sometimes they
fall just to the shoulders others reach
to the bust line and still others
touch the waist In ecru or dyed to
match the color of the gown they will
be the most fashionable during the
early fall The smart girl is sure to
contrive many novel ways of adding
to the charm of her cape She may
fasten it down the front with big
artistic looking buttons or it may
have the effect of being tied together
villi many smart looking little black
satin bows If she wishes to more
decidedly change its effect she will
slip satin messaline or velvet ribbons
through the meshes of the lace at
either side of the Trout At the neck
the ribbons are tied in rosettes and
nen again a bit further down
Handy Oil Dropper
A medicine dropper as an adjunct
to the making of mayonnaise was the
inspiration of a housewife not long
ago Everyone who ever tried to
make mayonnaise knows the bother of
adding the oil slowly drop by drop
until the dressing is thick enough
This woman experienced the same dif
ficulty and met it with the a cent med
icne dropper which adds the oil
vith machine like regularity and pre
cision
Glaced kid is considered smart or
outing hats
Wide plaited niching is very unbe
and joined to the lower edges of the coming to many
S YftB
T BW5
With a knockabout coat a woman is
ready for anything
Make up your mind to the waist
ecats they have come to stay
Gilt braid and buttons still give evi
deuce that the war is not ended
Dolmans and mantles are the latesi
importations for winter cloaks
Even scant pouches are doomed
the fittest waist has been accented
Feather rosettes for stiff hats have
rivals in those of taffeta and of ribbon
Green Corn Soup
Grate and scrape the corn from
j enough ears to make one pint of pulp
Break the cobs in halves put them
in a kettle with enough cold water to
cover them cover the kettle and boil
the ears briskly for half an hour Then
strain this water into another sauce
pan and let it boil down to less than a
pint
When reduced to the proper quanti
ty add to the corn water the corn pulp
and let it simmer five minutes then
season with salt a little sugar and a
For sponging out bureau drawers or j dash of pepper Add one pint of hot
cream one tabiespoonful of butter and
a heaping tabiespoonful of flour dis
solved in a little milk Let the whole
just boil up after the flour is in
Put- a tabiespoonful of finely
chopped parsley in a soup tureen pour
in the soup and serve
WITH A STO LE EFFECT
I
J
W VTl 1 T T I SJ
1 fl P r
with fringe The waist is full below
the tucks and is closed invisibly at
the left of the front on a line with
the scarf To make the waist for a
woman of medium size will be re
quired 44 yards 21 3 yards 27 or 2
yards 44 inches wide with yards
01 all over lace and yards of silk
for scarf
and
invention
Automatic Pump of Great Power
C A Arnsberger an engineer of
Itudy Idaho has just received pat
ent letters for an invention that he
has been working on for years and
winch promises to revolutionize cer
tain features of mining and irrigating
operations It consists of an auto
matic quadruple action force pump
that increases the outflow of water
by four times that of the ordinary
force pump requiring the same motive
Iwer
Some of the great advantages
claimed for this pump are that it can
be operated at any speed that it can
be made up in any size that it works
on a central pivot and is at all times
en an even balance regardless of the
depth of the well or the volume of
water being raised There is no lost
motion It throws just as much water
wnen the lever is going up as it does
when it is going down It is able to
raise water at great height without
much additional power for the reason
that it both pushes and pulls at the
column of water It can be adapted
S 16
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4 lfjvgy
VI a W
Diagram of the Puma
When plungor box B is down as shewn
in the initiation the water enters as
indicated by the urows As th plunper
box ascends the lever pushes ie
plunsi r valve in closing- the same i d
p eventing the escape of the water
which is foicecl up through the shut oil
valve into the pine D As the pipe de
scends a vacuum is created in the sec
tion valve above thus causing a contin
fous Jlow of water upward whether the
pip and plunger box are going up or
down The movable -section of the pipe
above the suction valve is operated in a
ball and socket joint thus giving free
moTement at all times when the pipe
approaches or recedes from the cential
upright standard The main pipe E can
be extended to any height desired
to all uses to which any force pump
can be put such as raising water from
wells mines ponds or lakes with any
kind of power that is used in operat
ing other pumps
Protection for X Ray Operators
Mrs E Fleischman Aschheim of
San Francisco is said to be the first
radiographer to use a glass screen in
X ray practice She says a double
plate glass screen is the most serv
icsable device for preventing injury
to the operator and that it can be ap
plied equally to radiotherapy and radi
ography After some experimenting
she ordered the construction after her
own plans cf a vertical plate glass
screen 2 feet in width and reaching
to a height of five and one half fee
from the floor During the last four
months the screen has been in con
stant use in her laboratory While
operating she keeps it between her
body and the tube whenever it is pos
sible her exposed hand being pro
tected by the usual rubber glove She
has found that the heavy plate glass
screen possesses all of the advantages
of lead plates in preventing the pass
age of the rays with the important
addition of permitting an unobstructed
view of the subject and of the X ray
tube in order to judge of the intensity
of the ray Glass is opaque to the
X rays in greater or less degree ac
cording to its thickness Lead alum
inium iron and copper resist the rays
to a great extent Even the clothing
has a slight protective pffect
Msasurement of Dew
The measurement of dew has always
been difficult because of the fact that
to method heretofore has given exact
esults In Das Wetter M Ferb de
scribes a new sort of drosometer
which has given satisfactory results
iztl which is composed of a piee of
uaper which has been put through a
special preparation and dipped -in a
chemical solution This paper is ex
oosed in a box placed during the night
n the ground the quantity of dew be
ng indicated by the discoloration of
the paper A scale of tints is deter
mined experimentally which is used
tor the purpose of comparison there
Doing further used three sorts of pa
per the first for small quantities of
Jew the second for large quantities
and the third for very heavy dews
Claims a Perfect Vacuum
Prof Elmer Gates of Chevy Chase
Aid claims to have produced a per
fect vacuum by introducing molten
glass cf a hard glass and then heat
ing the tube for thirty hours with a
suction piston in the mouth of the
tube When this piston is withdrawn
the molten glass automatically rises
and seals the tube The space thus
left is claimed to be a perfect vacuum
uch a tube has been used in X ray
with remarkable result
FOR BARN WITH SILO
Ample Accommodation for Three Cows
and Fifteen Horses
S C C Please give a plan of a
barn with silo suitablo for three
horses and fifteen cows I would like
the stable to have a cement floor and
be built as cheaply as possible
The plan shown is for a barn 3C by
50 feet The framework above the
baf ement consists of an eighteen fooi
bent above the horse stable then a
twelve foot driveway then a twenty
foot bent In order to have room foi
a team to bo taken out beside a loaded
wagon there should bo an overlay ol
six feet in the mow over the cattle
this will give plenty of room on the
thrash floor The stairway to the
basement goes down from the drive
floor into the feed mixing room The
ImSCES
WL
- Sfc
zaa
Jlf
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-
Floor Plan cf Stock Darn
mixing room B horse stable C
fcfd alleys D cow stalls K box stnll
V passage behind cattle O manger II
roothouse under driveway 1 silo
hay or feed rrom above is put down
through a swinging door beside the
stairway
The basement consists of sixteen
-single cow stalls box stall and four
horse stalls with feed roos Provi
sion is made for a concrete roct house
arched over with concrete under the
cri eway The silo is on the outside
of the barn beside the driveway and
can be made any size desired one
fifteen feet in diameter and thirty feet
high would be about the size required
for the amount cf stock the lasement
would contain
Drying a Cellar
M R A cellar partially fills with
water every spring Would it be bet
ter to remedy laU by drainage or the
use of cement The cellar is in twn
parts 0 by 24 and 27 by 24 feet The
water seems to come up from the bot
tom The soil is sandy loam and
roon absorbs all the water when dr
weather sets in
If you would drain your cellar you
would have a better job than by try
ing to keep the water out with cement
for if the water comes in to the depth
of two feet it will be impossible tc
keep the cellar dry If you laid the
clJar bottom with concrete Portland
cement should be used and should be
not less than tour inches thick the
first three inches to be composed oi
one of cement to nine of gravel and
the top inch one of cement to two ol
screened gravel Gravel is as good
as broken stones If the rock is not
too far below the surface of the
ground and the level of water froir
the rock does not come above cellai
bottom a well can be drilled and the
cellar drained irto it This would be
ler expensive than digging a long
drain
Transmitting Pcwar from Windmill
D C Our windmill must stand
fifty yards from the well in order to
get wind We are now using two
wires running from the cross sticks
of T shaped elbows the longer arms
of which engage the rods of the wind
mill and pump respectively This has
not been very satisfactory Can
vcu sugqost a better method
I do not see how this arrangement
can be improved without altering the
plan completely It occurs to me that
if the pump were placed immediately
under the windmill in an excavation
deep enough fcr the purpose and the
water brought from the well to the
lAuni by means of a pipe it would
work satisfactorily I may misunder
stand the circumstances but it ap
pears to me that this at any rate
would wcrk satisfactorily J B R
Foundation for a Building
J W B I wish to put a foundaticn
underneath a building 20 by 50 feet
two stories high The ground has a
hard stony subsoil under a foot 01
more of black loam There is a fall
of about one foot across the building
Would it be necessary to dig below the
frost and put in a drain How should
it be done
All foundations are better if they
ar drained unless in sandy or gravel
ly soil In a stony subsoil a good
foundation may be made by excavating
deep enough so that the walls will be
below frost If a drain is put in dc
not put it under the wall the proper
place is just outside the wall the
top of tile coming level with the bot
tom of the wall this will carry off all
the water and not allow it to stand
under wall
Round Silo With Vooden Hoops
J W C Could a satisfactory circu
lar silo oe built with two thicknesses
of inch lumber with tar paper between
them using half inch elm lumber for
hoops to which the boards would be
nailed How many piles would be re
quired for the hoops and how wide
should they be cut
Silos with wooden hoops have been
built but with what success in dura
bility has not been learned If a silr
sch as described were well construct
It would be inexpensive and shoiuV
- ser ice for a number of years
0jtegtig
Pity the Poor Woman
But your dog license has been paid
for this year said the department
clerk
Strange remarked the forgetful
man Im sure this 3tring around my
finger was to remind me to come hero
for my license
But its been paid probably your
wife or
Wly wife Oh thats it It was my
marriage license I was to get to day
Isnt That Thoughtruf
Toss She used to say she didnt
care how homely a man might be if
tie were only thoughtful
Jess Well thats the kind she got
for a husband
Tess Why I heard he was any
thing but thoughtful
Jess Hes full of thoughts for him
self
Fair Fight and Mo Favor
Airs Newlyspliced Look Percy
Theres a horrid hippissaurus fightng
with mother Why dont you run and
help
Ir Newlyspliced Oh it would be
cowardly for both of us to attack the
old lady The hippissaurus must take
his chances He shouldnt have begun
it Comic Cuts
He Was Belted
Nell So she actually refused Lord
Nokash
Belle Well no I believe her father
did tiie refusing for her
Nell And he was a belted earl
too
Belle I dont know that he was un
til he interviewed her father Then he
got it all right Catholic Standard
and Times
A very
Which
loquacious lady asked
friend what position he would give
her were she a man
Id make you superintendent of s
deaf-and-dumb asylum was his reply-
Why
Because either the inmates would
learn to talk or you to keep silent
For the Boarders
How much are those fish askec
the woman who was just starting s
boarding hcuse
Twelve cents a pound replied ths
huckster Theyre butter fish
Too much Havent you er anj
oleomargarine fish Philadelphia
Ledger
Reassuring
AW WIWz
He Everybody says you only mar
ried me for my money
Shf Everybody is wrong my dear
I know von look it but honestly I
didnt Illustrated Bits
Airs
So Ccnvenient
Urban How you must orrios
living in the country I suppose you
can get all the fresh fruit and vege
tables you want
Mrs Annex Oh yes Such a nice
pedler comes out from the city three
times a week Brooklyn Life
Natural Deduction
City Editor Well did you get an
interview from Mrs Blank on the sub
ject
New Reporter No sir I zzv the
lady but she refused to talk
City Editor Indeed When did sh
die
Commended
Mr Bliggins says he is a self made
man
That is one good trait about Mr
Bliggins answered Miss Cayenne
when he is to blame he owns up to
it
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