SHE KISSED ME.
She kissed mo , my beautiful darling ,
I drank the delight of her lif s ;
The universe melted together ,
Mortality stood in ccijse. ! *
A spirit of light stood before me ,
I lie.ard a far rustle of wings ;
The kings of the cartli were iv beggars ,
Aud the beggars of car h were as kinga
RICHARD REALF.
MUTINY AM ) ME ]
Man's Extremity Amid Wind nnd Wave.
American Rural Home.
We were becalmed in mid-Pacific.
The sails swelled no more than if they
had been molten sheets in the tropical
sunshine. Yet there was something
strange about theseafor it was rough.
We had been making good time the
day before and I concluded we must
have come into a region over which
some storm had passed. It was the
dry season , too , and I could not ac
count for it. But a man finds a good
many things on the high seas that he
can't readily account for , however
scientific he may pretend to land-lub
bers to be.
When a man loves the sea , the deck
of a ship is more to him than a palace ,
and the salt air nnd the heaving waves ,
life itself. But there are times when
he would give something to have the
solid earth to step upon , not in a
storm , there he stands to his colors
and trusts in Him who can say to the
waves : "Peace , be still. " But there
are uglier things at sea than storms ,
things that rise up out of a seeming
calm. These compared with storms
seem to me like the Atlantic and the
Pacific Oceans one stormy and fierce ,
the other tranquil for days together ,
but with a terrible element brewing in
this stillnes.
There was on the deck of my good
ship , "Vestigia , " an atmosphere more
oppressive than the tropic heat with
the storm brooding in its heart. Liks
every sailor , I had faced the thought
of shipwreck. But tins dreadful , in
visible comething hanging over me
was different , was a horror undreamed
of , unendurable. Yet how could I
tell that the dread of danger to my
wife and baby boy who were with me
. had not conjured up aphantasy ?
I tried vainly to tell myself that
there was really nothing ; there was
something , intangible , shapeless , horri
ble , palpable at least to those fine per
ceptions which transcend tlie senses
and often forerun them. I had not an
enemy in the world , yes , possibly one ,
. butif soa man whom I had never seen ,
though I had cut sharply across his
plans and purposes without being re
sponsible. He was the nephe\v of my
mother's uncle , his wife's nephew. He
had been brought up with the old gen
tleman and expected to inherit the
greater part of his property. But my
uncle had left it all to me. Pierce Ar-
mitage trusted too much to the fact
that my uncle disliked my father. Ar-
mitage was wild and lawless and when
the money came to me , I was glad to
be out of reach of his vindictiveness.
I would have rishtedhim ifhehadbeen
dealt with unfairly , but he had been
repeatedly warned by my uncle. What
was this old story , however , to me in
mid-Pacific ? Yet , for all my endeav
ors , the shadow grew.nearer.
One day as I sat on deck with my
wife under an awning , she whispered
to me suddenly :
"I don't like that man. " I looked
np. The first mate was going by. All
in an instant my dread took form.
This mate , Griggs , had been in the
"Vestigia" when I was transferred tD
command of her. My own mate had
been promoted , and Griggs was highly
recommended by the ship's owners ,
but , as the saying is , I had never
/'cottoned" / to him. I had struggled
'ayfiinsfc my prejudice , now I under
stood it. As I sat there something
happened to confirm my dread. My
little boy in his play ran across
Griggs' path. The mate swerved
aside and passed on , and then I saw
him cast at the child a look so ven
omous that it was with great difficulty
I restrained from snatching up my
boy in my arms.
At last I wasawaks , and I saw that
3 should not have had instincts , or
that they should have guided me
sooner. It was too late. Some of the
men had sailed in the "Vestigia" be
fore , others were of Griggs' own choos
ing. They were a motley crew , Irish ,
Swedes , Italians chiefly , good sailors ,
but men I did not trust , scarcely a
Yankee among them. Of late tliey
had obeyed me sulkily , and now that
my eyes were opened , I recollected
how much Griggs had gone among
them on some plea , had flattered one ,
had relieved another from some oner
ous , task , done a favor to a third , and
so on. I recalled significent looks
nnd whispers , and 1 saw that the
crew were in the hands of my first
mate , and that he meant mischief. I
looked at Mary and my boy. To
whom could I turn ? I glanced at the
second mate , but just then I saw
Griggs in passing him thrust a bit of
paper into his hand , and a few minutes
after I saw this second mate as he
stood talking to the man at the wheel
give the paper a toss from him into
the sea. Instead , it fell against the
railing of the ship and caught there
uncertainly.
I began with my boy a game of ball
such as we often played on shipboard ,
when the unexpected directions of the
ball were a great amusement to the
child. To-day after taking different
directions , I suddenly rolled the ball
close to the paper , and told him in a
low tone to bring both balls , thepaper
and the rubber one. He obeyed ,
laughing , and I read secretly :
"When the watch changes. Have
the men armed and ready. Better dis
patch Keefe with the captain , he will
make trouble. I'll look after the wom-
on and the boy. "
. I had , then , an hour oflife , nnd he
would look after my wife and boy.
He ! I looked at them. I would fight.
to the last. With a silent m-ayar 11
sent for Keefe in my cabin. In , a. few
moments we stood looking into ono
another's faces like doomed men.
"Is there nobody among them all
weican trust ? " I asked.
"Not an infernal rascal , ' ' he answer
ed. "But one thing , Captain , we'd
better begin. "
He was right , for then we should die
like men instead of rats. I armed
Keefe to the teeth.
"Let them see you leave , " I said.
"Then come back here and conceal
yourself. "
I wrote some letters , took a packet
from my strong-box , went upon deck
again , gave the packet to my wife , and
drawing her toward me , kissed her
passionately.
"Keep life and courage for our boy's
sake , whatever comes , " I said , and
took my bab'y in my arms ; his soft
grasp nerved me like the touch of steel.
I looked about me like one who looks
his last. Still the same calm and the
same unaccountable movement of
the water , only that it seemed to have
increased. I went below , and on some
pretense sent for Griggs. He came ,
but at the first glance at my face , drew
back. Too late. The door was double
locked , and my pistol at his temple.
"Mutiny and murder , " I said to him.
"How long do you deserve to live ?
What is it for ? "
He answered me by a name : "Pierce
Armitage. " Then , appeal would be
useless. "Shoot ! " he said defiantly.
"I shall be avenged. I've breathed
hell into your crew. Heaven itself
can't save you. "
I shuddered ! "Whatever comes , I
deny your blasphemy. " I said. At a
signal Keefe sprang out. Griggs , or
Armitage , was ironed , gagged , and laid
upon the cabin floor. Then , double
locking the cabin door behind us , we
went upon the deck. Thero I called
the crew together.
'My men , " I said , "what fault have
you to find with your captain ? "
They looked at me , and "at one
another.
"We have spoken none , " answered
an Italian in his soft broken English.
"Not to me , " I answered , "but
worse than that , amonz yourselves
and to my mate. You should have
come to me with your grievances. I
am here now to remedy "them if you
will tell me what they are. How is it
with you , Gustave Doneldorf ? " I ask
ed stalwart Swede , whom a mo
ment before 1 had seen " on
my left hand , ho had disap
peared , and another boon companion
with him. I was startled. But the
keys of my cabin were safe in my pock
et and I went on talking to the men ,
hoping to pass the fatal hour and to
gain at least some adherents. Some
of the men listened to me , but all were
evidently in expectation of the leader ,
who could not come. I saw and heard
every thing.and noticed that the waves
were higher. I talked on , and the men
stood more in bewilderment than at
tention. What was to have been my
death hour was beginning to go by ,
and no blow had been struck. In spite
of loweriii jglancesl had begun to hope ,
when suddenly I saw Gustave Donel
dorf and his companion in their places
again , and in another moment there
sounded rushing footsteps , and Armi
tage sprang upon deck , pistol in hand
rushed up to the sailors , and began in
English and snatches of their own
tonaue to berate them for cowardice.
Why he did not kill me instantly , I
can't tell ; perhaps he meant to feed
me first with horror , being sure of me ,
'or the men responded to him like a
trigger to the hands that pulls it. My
boy ran to me.
"Shoot the brat first , " shouted
Armitage. I took aim at him and
ired , ' but my ball went wide its mark.
? or the ship at the instant rose upon
a great wave , and as she plunged
downward there was a cry from many
throats. I turned. A mountain of
vnter was upon us.
"Keef sail ! Down hatches ! " Ishout-
ed , as at a look from me Keefe
snatched my wife and child toward
the cabin. In the common dangerthe
mutineers forgot themselves in bein
sailors , and as if life hung on my words ,
my orders were executed with magic
speed. It was none too soon. The
cabin door was barely closed when
; he frightful wave was upon us. We
: hrew ourselves upon the deck , faces
downward , and hands grasping at
vhatever gave any promise 'of hold-
ng firm. All but Griggs , who thrust
one arm through a coil of rope about
; he mast , and stood , pistol in hand ,
eady for fatal aim at me'should there
be an instant of stillness. He had re
solved that in any case I should not
escape him. Our last glance showed
this before the ship seemed to rise
erect upon her "stern , to poise herself
n mid-air , and to plunge down un-
athomable depths. A raging cataract
swept over us , it roared in our ears ,
drenched and deafened us , beat us
against the deck , and almost swept
us from the supports to which we
clung. The vessel shook like a leaf in
; he whirlwind , staggered and plunged
until I thought she was going straight
to the bottom. Then as the deluge
rolled off from the deck and we sprang
; o our feet , I saw an awe-struck look
on the faces of the sailors , and follow-
ng their glances , perceived that Arm-
tage's place was vacant.
Had Heaven interfered in my behalf ?
Jo w could I dare to say so ? All that
I can affirm is that at the moment of
my extremity a tidal wave on its way
across the ocean had swept my first
niate into the sea. The sailors , how
ever , had no doubt. To their super-
stiti ons Heavenhad fought for me , and
they respected me accordingly.
"It is a strange story , " said the cap
tain as he finished , "but if you want
something rational and probablejust
get somebody to make it up for you. "
The Severn tunnel in England , four
miles and a half long , has just been
opened. The distance was made by
ive carriages in IS minutes. It can
'
scarcely be'calied one of the great tun
nels. These are Mount Cenis , other
wise Frejus , about eight miles long ,
which took fourteen years to make ;
5t. Gothard , nine miles long , which
: ook eight years to make ; and the re
cently finished ( September , 1884) ) Arl-
burg , about six miles long , which took
ony ) two years to make.
I Another Sermon.
The Salvation Army has' tieen liold-
mg forth jn Aurora for tlio pastr week ,
more or less , us tlio case may be. It
is not definitely settled how many
.sbulg tlio army has thus far\snatcb.eil
from tbe. burning , but it is certain lliat
their'emotional style of presenting the
cause has incited some of the hearers
to get up and pa.w the air , and , act as
thougli they had been eating green
fruit.
fruit.We
We do not wish to cast any reflec
tion on religion , but we do not think
this vehement kind is doublo souled ,
and with a row of nailsion. the'out
side of the heel. That is , wo do not
think it wears well. The kind of con
version that is the result of sober re
flection and reasoning is that which all
can respect and approve of. And
those who experience it by a process
of logical thought will stick , and set
examples that will do good , to the'
cause. People of this kind are those
who help to build up the churches ,
and who show that religion cau enter
their every day life and prove service
able. That is tlio kind of a Christian
we wish to be.
Wo know wo are a sinner of no
moan dimensions , but we caimot bo
converted by the exclamatory utter
ances of a gang of young girls and
"flip" boys , who sing bad rhymes set
to plantation melodies , and who stand
'
up'beforo tiioso who are looking tor
tlio light and make tlio cause appear
ridiculous.
Of course , this kind of a thing takes
with some. Old man What's-his-
name and Sister So-and-so , who aro ,
always on the front seat when there is
a chance .to take a hand m anything
of an emotional character , will get up
and prance about , and shout at the ,
top of their lungs. But they cool'
down as soon as the meetings aro
over , and forget all about them. They
aro no better for their rantings. It is
not religion they have. They get too
much steam in their boilers , anil such
ail'airs give them a chance to blow off.
Wo can remember the oltl-fashioiied
revivals we used to have in the little )
church way down East. Every win
"
ter some sensational exhorter"would
appear and the town would turn out ,
and whoop and howl , and be saved.
Bill Johnson and Tom Copp , Sarah
Jones and Kate Ketchuui , and all the
rest of them , would jro forward and ,
kneel at the bench. They would near
ly scare the life out of the children by
their contortions and wild hoots.
They thought they were saved , and
the whole "town rejoiced. After the
meeting was through , and the smell of
brimstone was cleared away , Bill
Johnson anil Tom Copp continued to
hang about the bar-room , and swear
and light as of yore , and Sarah Jones
and Ivato Ketchuui went to dances ,
and made food for talk at the quilting
bees , anil all tlie rest of the converted
proceeded to bacic-stlide , wihoufc put
ting on any brakes , or improving spir
itually.
The intention of the Salvation Army
is , of course , good and proper , but
tlio kind of religious intoxication
which they deal out dissipates the
subject , and loaves him with a swol
len head and red eyes , and the con
viction that ho lias been living on a
wind pudding that has not nourished
his soul or improved his ways.
If you fcol that yon aro a sinner , and
want to become a genuin Christian ,
go and listen to reason and sound ar '
gument ; improve m your out-of-
church , week-day life ; do not do these
little wrong and dishonest things ,
which passion and avarice may die-1
tate ; be charitable , honest and hu
mane ; join tlie ranks of those who ap- ,
pear to have an earnest and enduring'
purpose for good ; believe what j'onr
reason will assist yon in believing ; try
to point out the risjlit way to others ,
and you will reach salvation by as
sure a route as that denoted by the
Salvation Army. You may bu a trifle
"
onger on the"way , but you will be
! ully as sure to get there. You will
"
ilso ieel that you" have worked your ,
jassage , instead of trying to blult
four way with a w.inil solo , Aurora
lade.
John Henry in Disgrace.
"You , John Henry , " said a Ilalstod
street woman to her belated spouse ,
'where have you been , and what havo
you been doing ? "
"Boon haviu' time. "
"Been having a time ! Didn't you
mow that I was hero alone ? What's
to prevent burirlars from breaking in-
; o tlio house and carrying off overy-
: hiug we've got , and not a man on the
mmiises ? Been having a time , eh ?
You'll have another time right here if
you don't take to getting home car-
ier. Now you go around and see if
the house is properly locked up. and
don't bo all night where are you go
ng , John Henry ? "
"Goin' to lock up housli up , m1
dear. "
"Don't you leave this room , John
EEonryHow do I know but there's a
aurglar under this bed right now ? If
iron wouldn't bo carousing around at all
lours of the night and cominir home
drunk you might have these matters
attended to before now. What are
pou standing there for ? Why don't
fou go and see if the house is" locked
up ? "
" 1 can't be in two plaislies at onsh ,
m' dear. If theresh burglar under
jed no usho to lock liousli. It housli
ocked no ushe fur burglar under bed.
Slice ? "
"That's just like a drunken idiot.
Jock under the bed first , and then at
tend to the rest of the house. "
John Henry crawled under the bed
and found a cat , which lie caughtby
, ho posterior elongation , or words to
; hat ctlecfc. To this the cat set up : i
demurrer , and proceeded to show
cause why tlio same should bo sus-
: ained , which so frightened Mrs. John
3enry that sbe sprang out of bed just
is John Henry backed out from under
t , and in his effort to rise be threw her
igainst the wash stand , upsetting it
ind. smashing tno pitcher. Sbe
screamed , he swore and tho cat
squalled , and now tlio neighbors say
: bat John Henry ought to bo put in
[ ail for tbe manner in which lie abuses
iis wife , and her a timid little lliing ,
too. GoodalVs Daily Sun.
A Nevada rancher snnrcd two hundred
rabils in ten dnys without sensibly diminish-
lr the hordes that ravage his farm.
A STUDY IN COSTUMES ,
Jennie June Expresses Her
Opinion About Modern
"Fashion"
And Gives Some Ideas of Art
as Applied to Dress.
The Cashmere , Greek , Ancient Greek and
Graduate Costumes as Applied
to the Art of Dressing To-day.
Special Correspondence.
NEW YORK , November 1L
The faults in dress and the absence of that
freedom and diversity necessary to the develop
ment and cultivation of taste seem to arise
principally from the acceptance by women of
incompetent authorities and the failure to
apply to dress the sense and intelligence
usually brought to bear on other subjects. It
has become a sort of axiom tiat : deviation
from "fashion" whatever that may happen
at the moment to be must be ugly and un
becoming , and beautiful dress , like healthful
food , wholesome perhaps , but not in the least
agreeable. It does not seem to strike the de
vout worshipper of "novelties" and "latest
ideas" that increased change cannot always
be in the right direction , or that the "style , "
which merely represents the trick of the mo
ment , can have no necessary or true relation
to personal elegance and good taste. Both
the merits and defects of our mode of dressing
are more conspicuous in this country than in
others , because the Jollowerc of fashion arc
more numerous , more money to spend upon
dress , and the distribution of prevailing ideas
more ceneral. It is not means or resources
that are lacking , simply knowledge of princ.-
ples , and this Is an acquisition which takes
time and implies an education in art Ignor
ance of truth in regard to dress is asblissiul
as in respect to other things. While a woman
Is declared to be "exquisitely" dressed who
wears a hcterogenous assortment of colors
and "unrelated" forms , that woman will be
satisfied witti herself and her methods. Forms
heretofore had. nothing to do with fashion.
The increase and decrease of artificial humps
and excrescences the shoitening and length
ening of skirts , sleeves and bodices the
drawing In or inflation , have all been con
ducted on purely arbitrary principles without
any reference to truth in art or nature. The
imbecility of it all. looked at from an abstract
point of view , is more than funny , it is pitia
ble. Why a woman scnsib'e on all other
points should ask anxiously if she must wear
a "bustle" or do any other one of the dozen
things that f.ishi-n o'dams to day that it did
not erdniu yesterday , would be mcrcd ble if it
were not common. The false standard set up
leads c\eiy one astmy. If u gown is in the
reigning mode it is "stylish , " if it is of costly
material it. is "beautiful" or "elegant , " and.
the wearer is "magnificently" dressed , not
common. But thenTis hope for the future.
American women are leginning to study
form , and when they have once discovered the
secret of true beauty and grace they will be
quick to apply it. Heretofore , like arithmetic
learned at school , they did not think of apply
ing art to everyday lif. ; , but even lcs = ons are
taking rratt'cal shapes and the latest studio
idea , tnat of the "cosiumecl.iss , " will perhaps
suggest the Jine npon which improvement
must begin that of nature , not caricature.
CASHMERE COSTU3IE.
Here is a study of a walking costume in cash
mere which is very simple , yet very charming ,
almost perfect in its grace of outline and free-
liomfrom all co.iventonal restraintsuch as
paiis , tie-backs , steel bars and other encum
brances. It is a copv of one of Liberty's wn-
tcr-coh r designs , and is made in two shades of
Umritza cashmere , or any other soft , self-col
ored all wool material. Brown and ecru two
shades of gr.iy , currant red and dark grren or
parnet and fawn go well together. The red in
cither case , the brown and the darker of this
ur.iys beinsr used for the s'drt ' , which should
be laid in fiue knife plaits. The overdress is
Bmock-shaped _ , but rather narrow , ths fulness ,
what there is of it , which is only just cnouih
for easu over the i-nlanri-d portion of the body ,
being gathered into the honey-combed shirring
at the throat , and more slightly pulled in at
the waist , under the soft sash , which holds it
without any gathering string and admits of its
being drawn up to Ihe Je t side , where it opens
and falls In a series of draped folds. The on
ly shaping is under the arms. The armholes
are lelt nearly straight , so that the arms move
with ease and freedom and give abundant
space to the sleeves , which are a modification
of the old tleg-of-mutton" and may be tacked
here and there to an Inner lining or to tapes
attached to the inside of the lower part of the
arm and to the top of the s-houlder. The shap
ing of the lower part of the sleeve can he seen
bv the position of the left arm , which is turn
ed so that the hand touches the bodice.
The hat matches exactly the upper part of
the dress , the bunch of feathers the tint of
the skirt.
GREEK COSTUM3.
This costume Is the adaption made from
the pure Greek dress bv Mrs. Emily Pffelfc ,
the author of the "Lady of the Rock , " "Fly
ing J > aves , " &c. , and a well known figure In
London literary and artistic society. The pe
culiar and very graceful style of costume she
has adapted to all her needs , and some years
ago illustrated in a series of articles In a Lon
don periodical. Last year Mrs. Pflelfer with
her husband , also and author and a musiciau
of ability , though an nmeteur , visited this
"
country , and many will recall the tall , grace
ful flgurj In Us lovely drapery of while and
gold or pale yellow with embroidery of
Pompeian red , or the quieter olives wrought
In leaf tints , which characterized her everyday
attire. There was nothing so absolutely differ
ent in this dresss as to attract attention ; tt
was only conspicuous from its soft flowing
lines and the absence of the usual humps and
high contrasts.
Theunderdress of this costume Is fin abso
lutely plain , straight morning gown , which
may have an upright tucked bodice ( the tucks
very fine ) If the wearer Is thin , but Is other
wise shaped under the arm and gathered into
the belt , or it may be cut all in one and a belt
arranged simply to mark the line of the waist.
The drapery needs no cutting , it may be ar
ranged irom a shawl or a square of any soft ,
double-width material , nun's veiling , cheese
cloth , fine wool , silk or lace. The embroidery
is easily and quickly done in outline stitch in
one or two colors or two shades of tl/e same
color , but It Is better to use only one color ,
unless two colors or two shades can be so
judiciously used as toproJuce a good result ,
and this can be attained by knowledge end ex
perience only not by direction through a med
ium so liable to misconstruction as words. It
should be understood from the beg'nning that
all colors used in art costumes are soft and
possess depth rather than surface color , so
that thev adapt themselves readily one to an
other. The original of the Greekrdress .was
made in Tussore silk , In its well known deli
cate ecru or stone-colored tint ; and the em
broidery in flame color , which has a lambent
quality , not in the least like the brick red ,
which is often called by its name. The corners
of the drapery are united together on the
ehoulders with clasps of inwrought stone , or
metal , and the rusbings are of the silk , feath
ered upon the edge , or of embroidered lace.
ANCIENT GREEK COSTUME
The design from the undent Greek , it will
be seen , is a modification and combination of
of the other two , with features of its own that
are different from either. The foundation
dress is very much the same as in Mrs. Pffe t-
er's Greek gown , except that being made in
print and for ordinary use the sleeves are cut
to the wrist. The overdress is hollonel a ,
little at the neck , front and back , but other
wise gathered in at the w.u'st ( only with more
fulness ) exactly like the "CasUinere Costume"
excepting that the drapery is lifted some
what to the rit > ht of the opening and held by
the clasp at the belt. The body part is a'so
cut in more to the arm , the sleeves being less
full and requiring less space. The material of
the overdress is what is known in London as
Arabian cotton. It has a natura ly crinkled
or crepy surface , irregularly ridged and falling
in very close and graceful folds. It was used
by Miss Anderson lor her Galatea dress , de
signed by a London artist , and proved more
amenable to artistic nquirements than the
China crepe at § 10 pyr yard which she Jiad
previously employed The skirt of the under-
dress may be gathered or pl'-ated , ( understand
pleated not pl.iited ) , for plait was formerly
only used in the sense of braiding or weaving
together , and is not properly applied to
straight folds ; but gathering in more suitable
for figured prints , such as that of which this
skirt'is made , as .t does not conceal any part
oT the pattern and is more easily laundrfed.
These costumes are all that would be called
Esthetic , yet they are beautiful , graceful , sim
ple , convenient , and easily adapted to different
uses. They are also , especially the castimere
costume , so nearly liko the modes of to-day
that with proper treatment , they could be worn
as they are , and have been , without exciting
unusual attention. But one of the reasons
why this can be done is because conventional
fashion , whiie sneering , reviling ana ridiculing
the aesthetic idea , has stolen its thunder and
incorporated itin , fragments and without unity ,
into its changing and capn'cous repertoire of
themodes. Ithns done this in self-defence and
because it was demanded. Ideas are scarce in
a conventional atmosphere , and the aesthetics
had an idea to begin with several of them
and they dressed themselves to the taste and
common sense of thinking , intelligent women.
The extravagances of unt.iinkingand senseless
followers who endeavor to gain notoriety by
exaggeration undoubtedly disgusted them , but
underlying all this they could not but discover
an adaptability to lovely forms and simple ma
terials , which wai better than mere cost , so
long the test of taste and elegance , and a sin
cerity which is an essential elf ment of morality
in dress as well as in the qualities of mind and
heart Tims , whatever may be said of it , it
will be found eventually that the so-called
aesthetic element Is the truest and most Im
portant contribution made to the ethics of
dress in this generation , and the one that will
exercise the most decisive influence upon the
future.
PRINCESS OF WALES IX CAP AND GOVTS.
' The eagerness with which a new idea la
seized If it comes from an authoritive source 13
seen in the effort to utilize this sensation
created by the appearance of the Princess of
Wales in the dress of the uraduates upon
whom a degree Is conferred at the College ol
Music In Dublin. Upon the occasion of tha
visit of her Royal Highness In honorary de
gree was conferred upon her and she was form
ally Invested In the cap and gown , whlci
proved very becoming , for tnough no longer
very young and strikingly bcautiuil , she pos-
scssesses an interesting and expressive face ,
which retains its charms and even gains some-
thlngwlth Increasing age Irom the exercise of
, a lovely disposition.
The gown and cap are practically iht same
! as those worn at Oxlord , and the formal In-
vestment of the Princess of Wales , her will-
Ingness to wear the costume as a sign ol her
fellowshipwith the body , settled lorever the
mooted question of propriety , so far as women
graduates are concerned , and made the.cap and
gown the badge of studeut graduaua.wituout
reference to sex. \
The gown that Is usually worn Is Slack. In
this Instance It was of red satin damask , Iraqi , .
with satin and faced with velvet. Above thoj *
straight high collar are three folds of soft *
crepe de chine and the pin Is a diamond lyre ,
w tu fine , twisted gold strings. The cap is
"mortar-board " and has'
commonly called the - ,
been the subject of campoons Innumerable , !
but It Is suddenly discovered to be very strlk- ;
Ing and picturesque , nnd English milliners are.
employing it or n modification of it extensive
ly for misses and lit le girls. The "gown" Is
In effect the "surplice" of the Church of Eng-
land. Its feature Is the high-set , rather full
flowing sleeve the top of which almost joins
the collar and the seam of which is on the
outside , where it 1 * made slightly full as well-
as wide and flowing Instead of under the arms.
The rest of it is simply a Iong , straight eacquo
shaped under the arms , on the aboulder * , and
with a gathering or Watteau pleat In the back ,
wh'ch flows out from the figure and it is noc
fastened down. A word here may not be out
of place in regard to the adoption of the En
glish word "gown , " instead of "diess , " as
commonly used In this country. Like much
other adopted phraseology , it is both well-used
and miss-used. It is a great mistake to sup
pose that it Is used by all of those , who do use
It "simplv because it i English , don't you
know ? " It has the positive merit of correct
ness and good usase to justify It. When a
"dress" is made all in one piece from neck to
feet it is a "gown ; " formerly , when cut at the
waist , it was a "frock. " It is wrestling dress
from Its original meaning , which was generic
and inclusive , to limit it to the upper garment
which completes a woman's dress. The mod
ern dress vocabulary contains French words
which have become naturalized. Why not
"English , " wh ch Is our mother tongue ? We
use costume nnd toilet witnont a sneer and
without ref'-rring to where they came from.
'Why ' not gown , which is needed to designate
the long garment for which we have no name
sxcept the Incorrect and inexpressive one of
iress ?
It would be a real advantage to the public ,
indsave much con'usioB. as well as eternal it-
sration and explanations , if tiie proper word
; ould be app ied to the thing in woman's
dress as in garments worn by men for ex
ample. We tcok tha word toilette ( tni-Iet )
from the French , and now we ca'.l It indiscrim
inately , toilette , or toilet. . This latt word is
not proper y employed , it is forced from its
correct usaue whm st is made to mean only a
p irt of itself. A French-woman will speak of
ovikingher toilet for the evening , but she uses
the word In its generic sense , her toilette ,
forming part of her toilet ; and so well is this
understood outside of fashions and fashion
writing that the article of furniture In a lady's'
flrejsing room which contains the toilet acces
sories and appurtenances is known as the
"to let" table or "toilet" bureau. It is getting ;
to be pretty well understood now that ' 'cos
tume" means all the outside parts of a walking ;
antfit composed of a combina IDII of materials ;
while ii "suit" means the same composed .of
one material. Suit and costume are more or
less "complete" as they are made to include
jacket , bonnet , muff or the r equivalents.
Children are much more naturally , as well
as more beautifully , dressed now than of late
years , or any time since they were made the
copies in miniature of the follies of their eld-
srs. This change we owe partly to the wider
distribution of knowledge of physiological1
law , partly to the advance all along * he line'
of practical ethics , and partly to the modern
art and aesthetic element as applied to the
dress of chi dren as well as women. A cos-
Y
GIRLS COSTUME.
tume in two shades , or two colors , of cash
mere for a girl is copied from one of Libertv'a
designs , and is adapted to a girl of from four
teen to sixteen that diflicult age to deal with ,
when girls approach the woman without
havinz parted from tiie child. The design
consist of a square-cut , sleeveless tunlcshap"ed
in to the wain and drawn up to the lef c side
in natural folds over the skirt of the frock ,
which may be plain , tucked , or trimmed with
rows of velvet. The shirring at the throat
and upon the sleeves is done in honeycomb
pattern , with Kensington wool , in Kensington
stitch , or the ordinary shirring may be over
laid with herring bone stitch in wool , in a
different shade , or a contrasting color. In this
case the design may be rendered more com
plete by trimming tbe skirt with five rows of
velvet , spaced between , and put on with her
ring bone stitch in wool upon the upper and
lower edges. For younger gins , say of ten
and twelve vears , an adaptation has been
made of the carters' "smock frock. " a shape
less carment , made ful , with full sleeves ,
gathered in at the top and at Ihe neck , and
honeycombed with strons linen thread in a by
no means Inartistic fashion , by the poor
woman of the agricultural districts. Soft
daintv , ma'erials , pretty sh idlngs an'd con
trasts o * color and a more decoratins effect
In the honeycombing at the throat and upon
the top of tlie sleeves , transformed this one
despised garment into a picturesque frock , the
soft folds of a fine wool or silken sash adding
the effect of drapery to the straight , simple
folds of the skirt At ten and twelve a girl
has no shape , and the awkwardness of a waist
which measures more inches than ths width
around the shoulder ? is made painfully con
spicuous by a fitted frock or elaborate cos-
tames ; the gathere I "gmock frock , " on tbe
contrary , gives her ease and displays the
grace of frte , untrammelled movement , while
it is readily ad-ipted to her increasing growth
A conventionalized costume adapted from
the Russian for a girl of twelve is effecti
but requires a rather slend r and nat
graceful ficure. It is made of silk and
gold and wine color , red and black , or a j.ce-
Iui sha le of blue with dark green. The un-
derJress of t e bright shsUe In silk , the bands
of the same , covered with diamonds , in nar
row black , dark green or blue cilored velvet.
The tunic is of plain velvet in the dark shade.
Tnese sketc ies mav suggest to young girls
the use of a study of form , as it relates tT the
pr.-ictical worker"provM.ng covering for it Jfc
and not only the economy but the opportunity *
forthe xecise and development of ait'stic * "
taste in becoming the'rowii dressmakers. One
of the most valuable idea ? to be derived from
tbe study of art and from the dress of tbe aes
thetic school Is the folly and impropr.'etv of
supe fluous ornament of trimminthat haa
no purpose and no relation to the article it Ij
Intende.1 to adorn. ThU one idea well im
pressed upon the minds of oar younsr women
would moralize their dress and exercise a ben-
cficial Influence upon our entire soc al and
domestic life JENNIE JOSE.
