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About The Omaha morning bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 1922-1927 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 26, 1923)
r Because it is of metal lace in wonderful brown and gold color ing and because of the wide band of fur around the bottom of the full skirt, the smart frock shown on the left ushers in the fall mode A combination after noon and evening costume of old rose moire. The natural waistline is interest ing as is also the smart ruche on one hip VARIED and thor- jJ oughly delightful ^ is the mode of |H the moment. Although it is too early yet to forecast any definite changes in line and sil houette, there are cer t a i n established fea tures that promise to continue well into the fall, as well as rumors of various new things about to be launched by certain of the leading couturiers in Paris. A strong feature of the midsummer ^mode is the skirt draped up directly in front. This is an adaptation of the Egyptian style, and always carries with it a certain chic grace. Of course, it is meant for the very slender—but, then, what fashion is not? Paris is fond of this skirt, to judge by frocks seen recently from such a well known designer as Premot, who makes, among others, a lovely informal eve ning gown of pale blue moire, with a plain, long-waisted blouse and a skirt with a very flat back and the front draped up and falling in pleats directly in front. A charming version of the draped skirt is shown on this page. This is on a lovely frock of reseda green satin. The skirt is literally molded about the figure and caught up in front under a jeweled ornament. The drapery cascades down the front, much in the manner of the skirts worn by Egyptian ladies at the court of Tut ankh-amen. So much for the front of this frock. Now let us study the back. Rarely is a back as interesting as this one, which by its unusual treatment becomes quite as important as the front. Three loose bands start at the high neckline, are caught under the narrow girdle and fall to below the bottom of the skirt. These are more novel than drapery und they achlevo a much lighter effect. The interest of this frock is well divided between the graceful front dra pery of the skirt and the unusual har ness-like strips of material at the back. Another frock on this page shows an other version of the Egyptian stylo. In this case the skirt is not draped, but straight, short and narrow. The mate rial is supple black satin, not the shiny, stiff satin we have been accustomed to, but a soft, dull-finish fabric that is be ginning to take the place of the ubiqui tous crepe. This frock achieves the happy distinc tion of being extremely modern and up to date in appearance, in addition to having a touch of Oriental splendor. Rich embroidery in henna and gold forms two broad bands on the front of tho bodice. These go around the neck and over the shoulder to meet the band of henna-colored binding which borders the short sleeve. Quite the most distinctive feature, however, and the one which makes thijt a most unusual and smart little after noon frock, is the wide girdle which is twisted uround the waist and hips, with one end slipped through a fold in front. This widens out toward the bottom and hangs well below the skirt, in the man ner of a piece of circular drapery. It is this feature which gives the frock its Egyptian air. This and the girdle are elaborately embroidered in henna and gold, and one side of this saeh end in front is lined with henna satin. With all its apparent air of simplic ity, this in a most sophisticated little frock. The tiny hat, delightfully in accord with this frock, is also of black satin. It, too, has its unusual feature—a bril liantly colored bird placed under tho brim on the left side. On the right, a charmingly chic afternoon frock of dull finish black satin is brilliantly em broidered in gold and henna. In addition the wide girdle is faced with henna colored satin Among the fabrics much in use just now in Paris, for afternoon as well as evening gowns, moire takes a lead ing place. It is an excellent between season fabric, as it partakes of th* qualities of both summer and winter materials. And at this crucial time of year, when ail our wardrobes are a bit in need of replenishing, there could be no better choice for an informal evening gown than supple moire. The charming moire model photo graphed to-day is about as practical a little frock ns could possibly be imag ined. First of all, it is suitable for both afternoon and evening wear. Now that a lack of sleeves Is one of the features of the smartest afternoon gowns, this frock can l>e put on and worn to an afternoon tea or bridge party, kept on, if necessary, and worn to an informal eve ning affair. This Is only one of its desirable fea tures. Another is the total absence of trimming, and the lack of any pleats or ruffles makes it the easiest kind of a frock to park and take away for the week end. And there are no frills, pan els or sash to he pressed after every wearing. The material is moire in a deep old rose shade. I<ong, slender lines charac terize the skirt, which has a circular ef fect at the bottom, with one side con siderably longer than the other. It iivinteresting to note the return of the waistline to nearly its normal place. Shirrings at both sides of the bodice help /define the waistline and at the right side these shirrings are finished by a soft ruche. Nothing could be a more striking con trast than the long, plain lines of this skirt and the tight, swathed effect of the draped skirt of the reseda green satin gown. Who can say which is smarter? It is a matter of personal choice, as we find examples of both styles in the salons of the leading couturiers in Paris. Beer is particularly partial to the draped gown for evening, as are also Vionnef and Worth. Jenny, on the other hand, likes circular or straight skirts. I-anvin’s wide-skirted models ure as much in demand as ever, but Chanel has per sistently refused to abandon her straight, boyish silhouette. She is showing some charming frocks just now that are adorably simple, with short, straight skirts, the waistline in the normal place, and many of thesi evening gdwns have absolutely no trimming at all. One chic model of jade green mousse line de soie is entirely box pleated from neck to hem. The skirt is in two tiers and shorter at the sides A narrow string belt ties anywhere one wishes it. Satin—a strong favorite of the present mode— in a soft rest da tone makes this smart, swathed evening gown. The three loose, narrow panels in the baek add distinction to a most attractive costume There are no sleeves and the neck i* only moder ately decollete. The entire chic of this frock is in its lines and tiny L bo* pleats. ■ However, this is all the sim plicity Mm®, k Chanel allows I h e rs e 1 f . A r chiffon wrap designed to ac company this frock is a mass of intricate and beautiful embroid ery and the collar Is of soft gray fur, fo^ Paris wears much fur in the summer. In direct contras' to this simple frock and elaborate wrap is a charming cos tume designed by Beer for summer eve nings. It consists of an evening frock of turquoise blue and gold brocade, rich ly embroidered in rhinestones, and a wrap of blue chiffon, with a huge col lar made of ruffle upon ruffle of the ma terial. Here all the splendor is in the frock. Although Paris talks a great deal about simplicity these days, frocks are constantly growing more elaborate. Em broideries grow richer and more luxu rious, and there seems to he no end to the delightful beaded effects. Ruffles of all site- and descriptions are extremely smart just at present, and a frock with out a bow somewhere seems sadly lack ing. Evening gowns, even in midsummer, can be gorgeous as well as simple. In the Hois in Paris on a warm, moonlit night one sees a strange medley of metal cloths, brocades, laces and organdies. Nothing quite equals the beauty of fragile metal lace—the material of the stunning evening gown on this page. This is a lovely affair of bronre and gold metal lace, with many interesting features. First of all, the wide band of fur around the bottom hints strongly of the fall mode, and if one is contemplat ing a new frock at this wesson of the year this is an excellent model, for it is suitable for wear now and far into the fall. Then, the swing and hang*of the skirt are delightfully new and chic. This skirt is again a contrast to the other skirts on this page and demon strates anew the versatility of the pres ent mode There is not much change in the mat ter of color. Black is worn everywhere in Paris—on the streets, to the races and in the evening. White is very good and black and white exceptionally smart. Mauve is not quite so popular in the evening, although a great deal of it is still seen. The rose shades are good, as are the reseda and almond green tones. %