The Classic Coiffure
GERTRUDE'S LOVERS
BY CHARLES L. DOYLE
1'-. NTiT C& lOBffSU mmm
;V hi
iCopynglil, by W.
Getrude Desborough, daughter of
old Morton Desborough, the coal-oil
millionaire, was attractive In more
ways than one. To begin with, she
possessed an enviable share of good
looks and a generous supply of com
mon sense. Naturally there were not
lacking suitors who cast longing eyes
on tho helroRS of the Desborough mil
lions, and of these Lionel Wayne and
Hugh Winslow were the most favored
Gertpude showing perhaps a slight
partiality for the former.
Wayne was a ready talker, always
entertaining and handsome in what
some people considered a rather ef
feminate way, while Winslow was re
served, self-possessed and built on
sterner lines than his rival. Both
moveM In the best social circles, but
neither was overburdened with money.
The question that troubled Gertrude
was whether it was her wealth or her
self which formed the principal at
traction for her admirers. She cared
nothing for the fact that neither of
the young men in question was rich
1n this world's goods, but she cared
a great deal to know whether their af
fection was sincere or assumed.
In he." heart she felt that Wayne
had made a deeper impression on her
than Winslow; he was more out
spoken and dashing In manner than
Ills reserved rival, whose attitude to
ward Gertrude was almost reveren
tial. ' Still she ' hesitated, for one of
ler most intimate friends had dropped
a hint In her hearing to the effect that
Wayne was an unscruplous, calculat
ing fortune hunter. She did not be
lieve the assertion, but it troubled her
nevertheless and left her In a doubt
1ng frame of mind. She had no moth
r to consult In the emergency, for
Mrs. Desborough had died when Ger
trude was In her infancy and she
shrank from asking her father's ad
vice In the matter
But an event was scheduled to oc
cur which Gertrude had never counted
"Her Small Hands Were Caught Tight
ly in Hit Strong Ones."
upon. To all outer appearances her
father bad long ago ceased to par
ticipate actively In the strife of the
business world and was supposed to
be living a life of luxurious case, re
gardless of the fluctuations of the
stock market; so great was the girl's
surprise, and consternation one night
when Merton Desborough gravely In
formed her that a series of unlucky
speculations had resulted in the loss
of his large fortune, and that they
would be obliged to retire from the
world of society wherein she had so
long reigned as an acknowledged belle
and heiress. Yet when the first shock
of the announcement had passed away
Gertrude's pride and courage came to
the rescue and she threw her arms
around her father's neck and kissed
tiltu tenderly.
"Never mind me, papa," she said,
bravely; "as long ns we have each
other It doesn't matter. We will be
Just as comfortable In a quiet little
home as In this big house with all its
grand furnishings, and I can go to
work the same aslots of other girls
do and help yon."
"1 don't think that will be neces
sary, Gertie; we'll probably have
cough left to live on," Bald hrr fa
ther, but a look of Intense gratifica
tion shone In his eyes as he spoke.
Gertrude was true to the estimate he
had formed of her character; It was
evident that the unlooked for termina
tion of her butterfly existence did not
daunt the girl, nnd Merton Desborough
lifld never felt prouder of his daughter
than at that moment.
Gertrude did not abandon her reso
lution of Joining the humble ranks of
the wage earners. No sooner were
they settled In the narrow ronflnes of
the little flat which her father se
lected us their future residence than
una started out In search of work, and
the following week saw her installed
at a switch-board in the employ of
the telephone rompany, fulfilling the
lutles of nn operator, Her father
milled when she triumphantly In
formed hi m of her success, but did
not try to dissuade her. The battle
of life hud commenced for Gertrude
ii grim earnest.
It must be confessed that after the
novelty of the thing had worn off
there were times when she regretted
the leisure hours nod luxuries which
)md once been hers. But she did nt
complain, nnd stuck to her tusk he
roically, althoush at this Juncture she
G. Cliapmun.)
began to realize how very few friends
the average person can rely upon. Her
acquaintances in bygone days had
been legion in number, but with the
change in her social position they be
came wonderfully scarce. Three or
four of her girlhood chums remained
faithful to the deposed princess ot
their merry circle and loyally ex
pressed their admiratlou of the man
ner in which she confronted her ad
verse destiny, but they were shining
exceptions to the general rule.
Perhaps the sharpest sting of all
was coutainod in the knowledge that
Lionel Wayne was utterly unworthy
of the good opinion she once held of
hlui. From the day when he first
learned of her father's financial rum
that astute gentleman had kept care
fully out of sight, and never even
came forward to express bis sympathy.
Yet Gertrude, in spite of the disap
pointment which the revelation of his
true character inflicted upon her sen
sitive nature, felt thankful that site
had found him out in time to save her
self from the bitterness of a loveless
marriage. .. Ay h ether , W'inslow would
prove equajiy faithless.r'emalned- to be
seen. Business hail summoned him to
California, before the' downfall of the
Desboroughs had become public, and
he was still absent from the city. Ger
trude's belief in mankind had been
severely shattered by her experience,
and she hardly knew what to hope for
when he returned.
"Time will show," she said with a
wise shake of her little head, and ad
dressed herself anew to the fight for
existence.
A month had passed away, and Ger
trude, weary from a hard day's work,
was reclining on a sofa in the parlor
of their flat, an open book beside her,
while her father sat placidly smoking
a cigar and busied himself with a
formidable array, of papers covered
with endless rows of figures. A loud
knock at the door caused Gertrude to
spring to her feet, and an instant later
the tall form of Hugh Winslow ap
peared on the threshold. The color
rose to the girl's face at the sight of
the unexpected visitor, but Winslow
gave her no time for a commonplace
salutation. Before she could speak
her small hands were caught tightly
in his strong ones and the glow of
affection In his eyes told her that he
was still the same stalwart and un
complaining lover who had submitted
so meekly to her caprices In the past
"My own little girl!" he murmured,
gently," arid Gertrude's wealth of brown
tresses rested quietly on his breast.
"You young folks seem to have set
tied this matter very satisfactorily
between you," broke in Merton Des
borough'B voice. He smiled as be
spoke, and Winslow grasped the ex
financier's band and shook it warmly
"Thank heaven for your misfortune,"
he said, fervently; "it has gained me
the heart of the dearest girl on earth
Her money was the only bar between
us, Mr. Desborough."
Merton Desboroughs eyes were
moist with feeling as he gazed at the
speaker. "You are Just the kind of
man I fancied you to be," be said
Anally. "Gertrude knows by this time
what valuation to put upon fair-weath
er friends and money-seeking suitors.
And now I'll let you both Into a secret,
My supposed ruin was nothing but a
scheme to test the worth of those who
sought my daughter's hand. Merton
Desborough is Just as heavy a weight
in the financial scales as he was seven
weeks ago. I don't regret the experi
ment, for it not only proved Gertrude's,
courage and affection, but also gave
her a husband who really loves her
for herself."
One of Gertrude's arms crept around
her father's neck and the other rested
upon Winslow's broad shoulder.
"The two people I love mopt In the
whole, wide world," she said, saftly
"I am a very happy girl to-night,
papa."
Attitude of Birds in Flight.
When the new $20 gold piece was
Issued In 1907, a critic of the design
on the coins nuked: "Who ever suw
an eagle in flight with its legs trail
lng behind It?" This touches upon
a question that has often been de
bated, but Dr. C. W. Townsend thinks
that the designer was right and the
crltlc wrong. All birds of prey, he
nays, habitually carry their legs be
hind In flight, except when about to
strike their quarry. Water birds also
fly with their legs extended behind
and pheasants, grouse and other gal
llnaeeous birds do the same thing as
soon as they are well under way
But the passeres or perching birds
such as English blackbirds, sparrows
robins, ravens, corks, crows and
swallows when In flight carry their
legs drawn up in front. The habit of
humming birds is uncertain, although
some have been photographed, carry
lng their legs in front.
Refrigeration in Wine Making.
From experiments made In France
in the employment of artificial rcfrlg
ernllon In wine making, the following
conclusions have been drawn: Grapes
may be kept at a temperature of 29
degrees Fahrenheit for a year, but It
is not advlsnble to keep them longer
than a few months because of the in
f liable softening of the seeds. In the
clarification of liquors and their pre
paration for exportation to cold ell
mates very good results are obtained
by coding to 20 degrees for "2 hour,
By JULIA BOTTOMLEY.
By what gift of the gods did the
Greeks arrive at the most beautiful of
all the Innumerable styles of dressing
the crow ning glory of woman? If they
had not demonstrated their superiori
ty In discovering Ideals of beuuty In
other directions we would have to
concede that they were first In the
art of the coiffure.
Throo modern examples built upon
classic models are shown in this ar
ticle from an artist who has no su
perior. They are at once exquisitely
beautiful and simple and have rightly
been named the "Daphne," the "Di
ana," and the "Psyche" coiffures.
There is nothing Intricate or Impossi
ble to the amateur In their construc
tion, and a little study revealB that
they are suited to heads of various
contours, designed to improve their
outlines where they are not perfectly
regular.
When the wearer has an abundant
supply of hair the "Daphne" nnd the
the "Psyche" might be arranged with
out the addition of any false hair. It
would be difficult to arrange the
stately "Diana" without a braid of
even width Its entire length and
heavy enough. A small thin braid
would not produce the right effect and
few women have .hair enough to use
so much for the braid and have
enough besides to form the knot of
curls at the back. These coiffures are
all arranged with a piece placed under
the natural hair about the face and
a cluster of short curls pinned on at
the back. It Is much more conven
ient to arrange the hair with these,
even If one has sufficient hair to do
without them.
This front piece is called a "puffy
fluffer," and Is somewhat like the
longer pompador supports which have
formerly been used. It is of naturally
curly hair and can be combed and ar
ranged like one's own hair. ItdoeB not
come out of curl. It is made In several
widths, depending upon the amount of
extra hair needed in making the coif
fure. The curls also are made up on
supports and in several sizes to be
pinned to the coll at the back. If
carefully selected to match the natur
al hair exactly, these pieces give the
most satisfactory solution to the prob
lem of dressing one's own hair7 each
day.
To arrange the "Daphne," the
front hair should be parted off and
waved (by rolling it on rollers over
night or with the curling iron) In
large, loose undulations. When it Is
curled, comb It forward and pin It
out of the way until the remainder of
the hair Is combed back and tied at
the back of the head. After tying ar
range the back hair In a rather firm
soil to support the coiffure. The
"Daphne" requires the widest of the
puffy duffers. This is pinned about
ELABORATE BATISTE WAIST
Blouso of batiste made with fine
plaits and covered with a large
square collar, which Is trimmed with
hand embroidery und cluny lace.
The sleeves are trimmed to corn1
spund and am finished with deep
tucked cuffs
the head with several small invisible
h:iir plus us one pins the foundation
for a pompadour. After adjusting this
support comb this hair In with the
flout hand und bring all back to the
knot which has been previously ar
ranged. Pin the ends in very loosely
until the front arrangement has been
completed, so that the hair may be
pulled forward easily, if necessary,
when adjusting the bunds. The
"Daphne" requires three bands. They
may be of Jet, shell, metal, ribbon,
beads. In fact, a great variety of these
pretty ornaments are shown at pres
ent. Place the first band properly aud
arrange the hair about the face be
comingly. That Is, pull It more or
less forward, and make it more or
less fluffy to suit the face. Then
place the second band. Take the
tomb and pull the hair into a puff be
tween the two bands, then place the
tlnrd band and arrange the second
puff. If the bands are fastened to
gether they may be adjusted and the
hair pulled Into the even puffs re
'quired afterward. The short full
ciirk are next pinned to place about
tlie knot of natural liair. Pin a few
of them down to form puffs and use
invisible pins for these und also to
Keep the remaining ones in the proper
position.
The "Psyche" shows a parted coif
fure arranged with a smaller puffy
lluffer at the front and u full cluster
of Psyche curls at the bnck. Arrange
the natural hair and pin in the front
piece as for the "Daphne." in combing
the front hair back part the natural
hair In front at the forehead and pin
a little of it over the almost invisible
foundation of the puffy fluffer. Pin
the hair securely about the knot at
the back and lastly pin on the cluster
of curls. They are very easy to adjust
as they are made fastened to a foun
dation. These dancing curls make
this a very youthful and fascinating
coiffure. The beret or long band, in
Greek key desigr, and the little tri
angular headpiece may be had In
rhinestones or In other designs. A
beret of some sort is an essential part
of this coiffure. The little headpiece
may be omitted, but on a well-shaped
head It adds a superb finishing touch.
It is shown in pearls and in jets also.
The quietest and stateliest of these
beautiful coiffures is the "Diana." If
one has a plentiful supply of nntnral
hair the front will not need the founda
tion, otherwise the hair should be ar
ranged as described for either of the
two preceding styles. Instead of orn
aments, however, a "Diana" braid with
curled ends is pinned about the head,
the curls pinned in at the knot in the
back. The "Diana" and the "Daphne"
styles are most suitable for those
whose heads are less Bhapely than
that pictured in the "Psyche." Coiffures
from E. Burnham, Chicago.
COLOR ON THE KERCHIEF
Gray and Brown Shades Are Used for
These Women's Dainty Ac
cessories. uray and brown are mysterious
colors to have a foothold in the hand
kerchief field, but they've done It
These shndes were first shown in the
larger sizes for men, but soon were
cnught up by the ninkers of women's
dainty accessories, who fastened them
on to the prettiest qualities among
women s kerchiefs. A plain grav
ground is shown on some of the all-
over handkerchiefs; brown and gray
squares are curiously placed on oth
ers.
A narrow border of brown hem
stitching or an edge of tiny hand
made scallops done In soft cotton Is
again the attractive method of Intro
ducing the color.
Bridal Showers.
Could anything be more appropriate
than a rose shower recently tendered
a bride-elect? She Is fond of flowers,
a fact well known to her numerous
friends, nnd she will live In n houso
surrounded with spacious grounds nnd
can have her own flowers, something
known by the numerous friends who,
Instead of "showering" her with the
usual brlc-abrnc, came with potted
roses, each crock decornted with green
tissue paper, tied with green satin
ribbons.
Finish for Child's Frock.
A pretty finish for a child's plquo
frock is to scallop the opening down
the front, from neck to hem, with
1 buttonhollrg,
it ......
rim bottom ruir
Klvers are great studies. They are
as chungenble as a woman, yet ever
keep In the same general course. Con
fined within certalu limits with moods
that vary, they wander on, obedient
to the laws that bold them to their
course. They are sometimes tempes
tuous and careless as men, wiping out
at one sweep the farms that have
claimed their ancient channels and as
serting once again the full sweep of
their Individuality. Sometimes they
bleep the peaceful repose of a bnbo.
At other times they burn away and
leave but the bed, from which the fe
vered waters rise again to commence
the elemental cycle of vapor, cloud,
rain, rivulet and river. And each of
these rivers has its own Individuality.
Some are long; some lurge; some
deep; some shallow; some quiet;
some turbulent.
The Arkansas is not long enough to
be classed among the longest rivers
of the world, though among the trlbu
tarles to the Father of Waters it Is
second only to the Missouri. It Is not
large and does not spread out the ac
cumulated waters In wide sheets; yet
at times, whpn the Aztec rain gods
pour out a deluge and the lower
courses are red by the .inflowing
creeks and rivers. Its magnitude Is
majestic, inspiring, 'destructive. Nor
Is the cfinnnel deep. ' For the moun
tain pebbles and the rich,'. red sand
and the plain white sand nnd all other
varieties of sand from the mountains
to the gulf ere constantly filling In,
scooping nut, rolling and gliding
down the swift current,' idling In bars,
building up Islands or leveling the In
equalities of the bed. And the flow Is
strong; the sweep of the waters Is
mighty power, unharnessed, to go on,
ever, to the sea.
Whether at the enow peaked springs
where It rises In the Hookies and goes
dashing down the mountain defiles,
whether fretting Its way between the
man-built walls through the city of
Pueblo or gliding through the pebbly
foothills, whether winding Its silvery
way across the Colorado and the Kan
sas plains or gliding on between the
Oklahoma bluffs nnd hills, whether
watering the mistletoe bedecked elms
or the canebrakes in the state whose
name it bears, the Arkansas has a
beauty, a charm, that makes one love
to dwell thereon. Anywhere along Its
course its acquaintance may be made
a sort of chance acquaintance and
one feels a nobler, wider sentiment,
like that which comes from the con
tact with a broad, free-minded man.
However, since it cannot be consid
ered as a whole, let the acquaintance
be narrowed to that beautiful sweep
of the stream flowing between the
CBage reservation and Pawnee coun
ty, Okla., where on one slde or the
other, and sometimes both,' farms
have been hewn from the wooded
valleys; where the sandstone bluffs
rise, sometimes 00, sometimes 100
feet, with niches where the great
horned owl, the peregrine falcon and
the huge turkey vulture find a nesting
site, and where, In olden days, the
eagles reared their young. Here the
red waters hurry down, down, down,
with a swish that mingles with the
rustle of the leaves, the shrill of In
sects nnd the cries of birds, in one
sweet symphony that drowns the
troubles, the stress of life, and gives
new vigor to the one who can sepa
rate himself from his business or his
strife, as he learns new things first
bnnd from God'a great book.
Here along the bottom roads the
great cottonwoods rise, with massive
pillars, that reach up and tip, over a
hundred feet. Just right for a giant's
walking stick. Great pecan trees,
huge burr oaks, walnuts, hickories
and three or four smaller varieties
of oak, black, white, red and chin
quapin, are here. Then there are
great hnckberrles with the eorrugntcd
and winged bark, and here Is that
beoutlful bluck coated member of the
rose family which has been designat
ed by the natives us the shlttlm wood
of the Sacred Book. The wood Is
hard, the hardest of the forest Vrees.
with the possible exception of the
persimmon; but the persimmon sel
dom gets beyond the bush slxe,
II
TH RIVLR NLAFt CUVllHHD.
though there are some large trees.
Here, underneath the taller growth.
are the black haw bushes, while grow
ing out of the bluffs are Juneberrles,
both prlies for boys, but insipid to a
mature appetite. And along close to
the stream are the few remaining ce
dars which were uncut by telephone
polers before the land wns open to
tettlement.
To climb among the bluffs, to in
spect holes left by disintegrated fos
sil trees; to listen to the tufted tit
mouse's golden call; to see the
"mountain boomer" scamper along to
the sheltering rocks, where he leaves
his tall in plain view and, doubling
back, pokes out his head to see where
the dnnger lies; to look at the ferns
clinging to the rock, is rejuvenating,
Inspiring, life giving. There are at
least seven varieties of ferns. The
abrupt perpendicular walls clothed
with the resurrection fern are passed
by unheeded when the heat dries up
the fronds brown and Inconspicuous
like the hands of a paralytic; but the
rains come and the face of the bluff
Is spotted with great dark green
patches where the mass of separate
fronds blend In green drapery. And
there, on the north side of a huge, wet
rock. Is the wnlklng leaf, camptosorus
chlzophlllus, the slender, leaf-like
frond, a drawn-out arrow head, whose
long whip cracker end takes root in
the mnss and liverworts and starts a
new plant. Of the splecnworts there
nro two species; one small, growing
out on the under side of cool, wet
overhanging rocks; another, tall and
slender, living more In the open. And,1
clinging to the side of the canyon, are
ferns a foot or more high and sub
divided a sort of magnified edition :.
varying, however, from the two small
er species that can be found growing
all about the woods. The most singu
lar, however, is the very small.
dwarfed one on the edge of lime
rocks frond and all but a couple of
Inches long with wiry stems like the
maiden hair, which spring back and
forth with their sprawling, scattered
double compound frondleta an eighth
of an Inch long, dark green above and
white underneath, with whole masses
growing from a perfect nest of fine,
black rootlets imbedded In the cracks
of the rocks.
From the bluffs one can look out
across the tree tops to the other side,
where the Osage hills, wave upon
wave, reach as far as the eye can
see, with here and there a deadening,
where the leaves of the girdled trees
make a brown patch on the land
scape. Fields freshly plowed or cov
ered with corn and cotton stretch
away In the valleys, while the nearby
hills still bear the scattered growth
of oaks and hickories. And far, far
away the bold prairie expanse, with
here and there a clump of trees to
break the contour, can be seen indis
tinct in the distance. ' And the river
banks, with fringes of willow, the
white cottonwood limbs, the glisten
ing bars, and the water ever gliding
on and on.
Automobiles In Nova Scotia.
People who have been making auto
mobile tours In Nova Scotia have run
up against some strange regulations
of the provincial character which have
tended to considerably abridge their
convenience and comfort
They did not find an absolute pro
hibition against cars, as in Nantucket,
but the regulations they did find were
even more annoying than that at Nan
tucket, because of the latter they are
specifically informed and so would not
undertake a tour there.
It appears that the Nova Scotia reg
ulation forbids cars from using the
highways In certain sections on the
market day In each week, when the
country folk flock Into the town to do
their trading.
They discovered, too late for their
convenience, that the market days do
not occur on the same day of the week
In every town, so that while tbey
steered cleur of that In one town they
brought up with a bang against the
bars in another town on the line of
the routes tbey had planned.
Keep Interested in Something.
Many old men break down and be
come childlike because they abandon
business, and thus lose much of their
every day interest in the world around
them. It Is not uncommon for old peo
ple to take up courses of study and
surcessfully poss through them. All,
such occupations servo to keep the
Interest alive In something besides
mere selfishness, and do more toward
warding oft "the blues" than all the
medicine In the drug stores.
s
