TliE DAILY HEUaLD : Pi.i fiSmouTn, mSiiKASKA, TCKSliAV. DFCEMJtEll 18 ls. MAKING SIIIKTS. HOW THE WORK IS DONE IN THE PHILADELPHIA FACTORIES. Kenrly Ona II-jnlrJ I'Iruia Engaged I tUm llualneM In T"Aj.t City OlvUloo of Ijilxr bouirllilng Cucniliig th Wage l'all to OlMTKtlTM. At tlio time- the "Sour of tlio Shirt' wan . written, by working hard from early morn until ktte at night a woman could make one blurt. That was before the introduction of machinery end sys tems, and when the bhirtmaker took homo a hiindlu of linen and muslin pieces and hroueht hack the garments, made and tinihhed outright. Now, with the systems and machinery in vojrue. (njiu the time the material is cut until it leaves the finisher, it luuiues through the hands of sixteen H.'rsons, each of whom does a part toward preiwring it for the manly bosom. This system is called team work, und each one in the team averages one dozen und a half of shirts n ten hours. Another method of making these garments u the one practiced in making up custom goods. In these places the Imisouis are Ijought ready luade, and with the remaining jiarts are given to the hand:, who make them out and out. These women will make from four to eight a day of nine hours, and the average price for this work is 3 a dozen. FP.OM START TO FINISH. Uio materials or which 6hirts are made are linen, muslin, backing,' a coarse linen used in lining the bosom. iercales, calicoes, flannels and P. K.'s, a species of worked bobom. In the Large bhirt factories, where the team system is practiced, the beginning of the work is the cutting. The material is laid out on long tables at times as many as sixty ply, the Kitterns are plaoed and with a liencil the marker sizes otF each cut. He is followed by the cutters, who, with knives, separate the parts and these are tied into bundles and carried into an' other ueKirtment where the operators are. Here the "forelady" distributes the parts to different girls the bosoms to one who returns this part complete, the fclecres to another, tlio neck or collar bands to another, and the cuffs or wristbands to another. In preparing the bosoms, the pleats are folded by small girls with steel patterns the size of the plait required; from these girls it goes to the operator and then to the examiner, after which it is taken to a machine where the neck receives the proper biojte, and now it is ready for the body of the blurt. In the meantime the body of the bhirt has been making the rounds from the lirst girl who hems is to an other who attends to the facings, and it is now ready for t lie bosom to be run on rough, from here another hand who stitches it down solid. The front and back are now joined by the other girl, and together they move on to the next place where the collar bands are put on. 15y this time the sleeves are ready and thev are put in place. Now the shirt is hemmed, and then it is taken hold of by another girl who is a "feller." and when her work is done the garment is ready for the finisher. This means placing the gussets, cutting and sewing the button holes and putting on li 1 nt ton 3 bv whic h timo it it i-.k1v for the laundry. In this city ninety-five firms and indi vidual employers are in the business. Most of these places are custom stores and employ but few people, but a uum , , ber of them are extensive factories, and I the capacity of a few U as high as 150 tlozen shirts a day. So far as the manu facturer is concerned the business of shirt making lias, during the past few years, not only held its own in this city, but it has received the benefit of the natural increase that comes to all branches of business, but fashion, during the ast two years, lias decreed that the white should, in a measure, give way to other colors and texture, and, as these are nearly all made outside of the city, the introduction of the flannel sliirt has LeciVa severe blow to the operators. A TABLE OF WAGES. The firms mentioned above employ a total of 2.250 hands, nine-tenths of whom are women. They are divided into the branches mentioned below, and the average wages for the year round are as annexed: Weekly. Markers. .". $18 to f -Sl Cutters 13 to 13 Ikwsoni liunN ..... 8 to 9 Facing Land 6 to ? Kuarn'rs iu 6 to 8 StittibT. 6 to 7 nackiiiLi'r-t. & to 7 Sloeveiiiai-era... ........ ................ & to 7 IUnJ:::::l-er 7 to , 6 Tabiuu'-ci'rs 7 to 8 IlemnuTj ..... ...................... 6 to 7 Joiners S to 7 Necktemlors ........................... S to ? Putting iu beeves. 5 to 7 1 Seaoii:: up 6 to Feliiac 7 to 8 FinLsbia.. 3 to 9 The tivcme duy's work is nine hours, and there lias been no material change in the wages for some years. In a few of the pL-.ces the work is steady, and in such riiotories the wages are o trille higher than those given above. Willi the ex-ceptic-.i of the marking, cutting and wlu:t is called the hand finishing, the work i all done by machinery. There is no apprentice system in any branch of the business except the cutting. When a girl logins vor at this business she is paid from the beginning for what bhe does, but the machine Bhe uses bhe pi list either rent or buy outright. There n in soir.e of these factories con siderable child labor utilized, particularly in the department where the bosoms are made. 1 he finer grades of this work are finished by hand, and while those who do tliij work are the real practical workers, of the trade, it may be 6een that their average earnings are much lower than those of any other branch. The reason of this is that large quantities of the work are sent to the House of tlio Good Shepherd, the Ilosine home and other rer fonnatory institutions, where it is done for much less money than is paid outside of those place. J'liiladeJphia Call. Hfjan lif Oyer A;ali, I rode up town from the court with a man who is now prospering in a respon sible business position in Iscw York, and who holds the respect and confidence o( his employers, who, when I was in the far west a dozen years back, was in state Erison on the Pacific coast for forgery. e had been employed in a commercial house, had been bitten by the mania for stock gambling, and landed behind bars, When he was released he came east and began life "over again, and his record 6 hows, as clearly as any record can at leart. that he gnXhwl wisdso. trrp r r- r ' t " n Sun Trained Monkeys. As for the monkeys in Professor Brockman's collection, they are simply astonishing. They are kept in cages, and are very clean so much so that when one of them hapjens to dirty itself, all the others notice the fact im mediately, and jeer and make the wryest of wry faces at the misbehaved one. Each monkey has its own plate to eat from and knows it, and actually refuses to cat from anybody else plate. Their tiaining takes a long time and much trouble because they are restless and inattentive. Yet it is more thoroughly done without the use oi forcible or very severe means than with. It U a bad policy to hurt llicin, because they are extremely sensitive and nervous, and a little ill treatment will kill thcui. Ior this same reason they never perform more than ten consecutive minutes at a time. and, although they can bear heat and cold pretty well they must be carefully kept out of draft, 1 here is one monkey that rules on horseback, dressed in a red coat, and with a silk hat on. He looks, from behind, like a miniature huntsman, and when seen in front he resembles Voltaire on horseback as much as one egg the other. Of course. these monkeys know their attendants bv face, and nrettv nearlv bv name. One, a little Pavian" the clown of the troupe, and who jumps somersaults, like liarnum s best, took a dislike to the head attendant some time ago. It must bo a strong grudge, for when ever no sees mm ho makes faces at him, grinds his teeth together, shakes Ins list and yanks, ibis same animal is learning now to catch a small base ball. Ho be frail bv lcarnincr how to catch little sticks, then little Hags, and win soon do suiucientiy practiced to catch a ball. Mr. Brocknian says he will teach another monkey how to pitch, and if he succeeds with this, will try to give performances witn a baseball nine composed of brute ani mals only. Baltimore American. Helping Each Other. Every one we meet has his own bur dens to carry. Wo do not want also to inflict him with our own. A bright countenancet a smile, a pleasant word are very insignificant things and yet they are full of helpfulness. Ihere is this to bo remembered, a kind act is never amiss, Sopie soul is always liunereriner and thirstinir for a token of sympathy. It is easy to see when one needs pecuniary or material assist ance and not very dinicult to give it; but somehow when we speak of "helping each other," the phrase takes on a different meaning. The worn of advice judiciously spolrcn where it is needed: en couragement and cheer to the down heai-ted ; praise and appreciation to the ambitious: flowers and a tender mes sage to the sick and lonelv; endless love and forbearance toward our very own : tears and sympathy with those whose grief is too great for words : ah 1 who. can even attempt to name the thousand ways in which we can 'help each other." Heaven forbid that we should neglect these opportunities! It is through noble and ereuerous deeds that character is developed and every act of generosity and kindness on our part brings us closer in kinship to Christ, our elder brother, whose life and teachings are the most beautiful example the world has given of help fulness to humanity. Ida Harper in X' ireman s .Magazine. like Other Men. lie stood with one foot on the hub of his wagon wheel, talkinc to his wifo. who sat in the wagon holding the lines. "How much did you say. Marv ?'"he asucu. "A dollar." "Wliatl ahull dollar fur two pairs of ;tockinrsr "Yes." 4 - We can't afford it That's perfectly reckless." "But I want 'em." "Yes, I suppose so. but you can't have 'em. Look a here. I've got to have a necktie, a new hat. a pair of suienders, a pair of buckskin gloves. so::io socks, a plug of tobacco and a jack knife, and that'll take all the money we can spare. Lan t 1 get one pair? "Well, mebbe, but you'd better look fur cotton, and sunthin' at about twenty cents. V o'il never git rich in t no worm it we don t keep expenses tiown." Detroit r ree lJres3. An Early Impulse. A Boston man who had had a pretty U;:vu tug with fortune for several 1 years and could with dinicultv keen alloi-.t on the sea of respectability, haq a tidy little fortune left him by a rela- live. a. inena meeting mm soon alter u::cu mm wnat was nis urst sensauon alter getting his hands on the money. "2iy first sensation was to give a lift in the way of something needful to sev oral fell lows whom I knew to be in as tight quarters as J ever was myself. I obeyed the impulse and I'ye ' been always glad I did, for the longer I'm iu i-ossession of money the fewer such, impulses 1 naye." .Boston Advertiser. JIU Appreciation. diaries Mathews once told a story of the "boots" at a country hotel where he was staying, asking to be paid for oi ng to the theatre. Mathews, struck with the fellow's civility, gave him an ci-Jcr for the play. "Come and see tho piece, Tom," said Mathews. ''A "here is an order for you." The nexj dr.y Mathews said: "WelL Tom, did ycu like the play?" ?4Oh, yes," said h-j boots jn a dubious kind of wayj "but who s to pay me for my time?"!r Old fapcr. Important Evidence. A man In Jfet7 York; who was badly mussed up and disfigured in a streef row bad a photograph taken of hunt self whilo in that plight to present as evidence before the court. TJn?re po more veracious witness than a pho? tograph, find after scanning the pict ure of a badlr misused man it did not j toko tho jury Iout .to' dceida .the cass ' f i f f-vr-. - T" ( h r.'r ;" " , 'AUNT MAG'S FUNERAL THE COWBOY'S AND DELICACY GENUINE GRIEF OF FEELING. A Wild Westerner Haa a Heart as WeU as Other of More Civilised Surround Kheddlug Tears with a Comrade in Trouble. Much has !een written reardinc cow boy life on the plains, and much of that writing has leen so magnified that the unsophisticated are led to believe that the cowboy is a veritable terror, whoso K'ory ncs in riotous conuuci anu leruu natins the existence of fellow leui!rs. Such lelief is exceedingly erroneous, lor. aside from many other noble traits, the cowboy has u heart as sympathetic as female. This was demonstrated just the other day, when Ixmi loin Leiter and his gang were'herding cattle about thirty miles to the north of this little place, in the region of the Musselshell river, writes a corresiondent from Livingstone, M. f. Leiter is a New Yorker, and came to the northwest some years ago with his wife and mother. Every cow puncher on tho plains knew "Aunt Mag," as Long Toms mother was familiarly known. She al ways had a kind word for them, and her devout Christianity had won respect from 3very one who had ever struck Long Tom s ranch. Leiter s lengthy form had given him the sobriquet of Long loin, and ne iiad worued ins way up Irom a common herder to captain of a gang. "AUNT MAG'S DEAD." One day he was in the vicinity of Mus selshell with a heavy herd bound for liillings. Night was drawing near, and the loys had iust got themselves ready to ride down the cattle and go into camp. A way to tho west apteared a horse head ing for the herd. Although not more than fairly outlined as a horse. Long Tom knew the animal, an extra he had at the ranch. ' "Some one's comin on, Dick," he said; "there's sumthin' wrong tu home." The horse drew nearer, and the rider was recognized as Leiter's wife. Bare headed she galloped up and almost gasped for breath as she said, "Mother's deadr' Long Tom s eyes fell, and as lus hand threw his horse s mane under the bridle rein he called to his men that "Shorty Morton will take my place," and heading for home, lus wife and himself were oil at a gallop. After the cattle had been ridden down for the night Morton, who had been as signed to take charge of the gang, called the men together. Morton comes from some place in Ohio near Hudson, in the Western reserve, and js a college grad uate. Tho roaming life of the cowboy fascinated him, and he's discarded Ins diploma for a lariat. "iioys, he said, "we ve got to do some thing. Here's Tom out here away from civilization, with his mother dead, and Aunt Mag was a noble woman." His emotion choked back anytlung further he desired to say. "Fellers," it was "Jersey Bill's" voice (nearly every man in the gang had a nickname), "bhorty s right. W e ve got to hov a decent buryin for Aunt Mag. Some of us kin light out fer Biiffags an' git a cofiin, an we 11 try an fix things sum way." A NIGHT RIDE WITH A COFFIN. The suggestion met with favor, but Billings, the nearest point where a coffin was obtainable, was over twenty miles to me southeast, it was agreed to send there for a cofiin. And at 9 o'clock thai nignt "jersey uin was tightening up iuu firin on uis pony. "1 11 take Joe Kellv s nonv with mt tn carry the cothn, and U be back by 6un t... . . . up. As he swung into the saddle his com panions crowded around and pressed money into nis nanus. "Uet the best, 13iIJ: Aunt Mac's worth it, . was the parting admonition from his companions. All nmht that little crowd of cowboys sat around the fire and reluc tantly took their turn at picket dutv around the herd, as all were an x ions to . . . offer suggestions for Aunt Mac's funeral- Dawn was just breakmg when Jersey um snowed up witn a neat, cloth cov ered coffin, which was taken to Leiter's ranch at once. Long Tom was 6 tunned, as no was just preparing to start on a mission similar to that of Jersey BUL The remains of Aunt Mag were tenderly placed in the coffin by Mrs. Leiter and her husband. That afternoon a burial took place such a burial as seldom occurs. Willing: nanus nati dug a grave on a know north of Leiter s cabin. The pastor, nail oearers ana mourners were cowboys. and the sympathy there manifested came from deep down in the heart. .Prior to deiositing the coffined form of all that was mortal of Aunt Mag In tho grave. Morton made brief remarks, eulosrizinji the good deeds of the deceased. Every head in the group that stood around the grave was uncovered and the lashes of every eve glistened with moisture. Drops of liquid crystal rolled down Jersey Bill s cheeks as he stooped over to aid in de positing tho coffin hj the grave. Al though devoid of the nonin and formality of a funeral in the midst of civilization, no more sincere, sorrowing mourners ever gathered around a bier than the crowd of cowboys that laid Aunt Mag to rest. Chicago Herald. Current of the Sound. One night about fifteen years ago Mason Clark had his schooner at anchor in PortTownsend bay. ' While ho was sleeping the wind came up and loosened the vessel from its anchorage. It drifted all night, and in the morning he found himself lying quietly at the mouth of Campbell creek, in British waters, m front or Blaine, lie haq drifted sixty miles by wind and tide, and over that same course tne largest ships can sau without a tug. About seven or eight years ago one cold winter day Jolin Geisher went abroad a sloop which beloneed to Mr. Henspeter and was anchoreo in Bircl bay. He raised the anchor with the in tention of bringing" the sloop ashore, when a strong east wind caught her and she became unmanageable, at least, to him, and so he floated about for several days on the gulf wi.th, nq fij-a and nothing tq eat but pne raw goose, which he de clared was delicious. He finally brought up in Nanairuo, on Vancouver Island, pnly about sixty miles from where he started. In just one week from the tinis the steamer JJispateh left him pn board the sloop )ie vas back m Semiahmoo,' arrivpg on rew fears iJay, much to, the gratihcation of in friends, who iad fiven him. up for iosf. Blaine (W. T.) ouiruL. - One of the hones used on the stage line near Albany lias a lveavy niustacha. JVuplewho have exanilncd. the :orsennq The Spartans and Stusle. The favorite problem of thinkers and teachers, Eince thought began, has been to find some engine of ecucation which should reach the character as elTecttially as the ordinary means of training touch the understanding; and in tho opinion of many, not men ulone but nations. music was such an engine. "It is music. said the Spartans, " hich distinguishes the lira re man from the coward. "A man's music is tho source of hiscourage. It was their music which enabled Leoni- this and his three hundred to conquer at Thei mopy laj. It was music which taught the Spartan youths how to die in the wrestling ring or on the field of battle. l heso claims are audacious surely. Vet, when we consider how the rhythmical tread of the brave man differs from the agitated shamble of the coward, how music is the art of human joy, and how joy and reiose of mind are the main elements of manly fortitude, we hhall at any rate udmit that there i.i a Ktroii' al'.inity Eomewhere; our only difficulty will I as to acknowledge that music, de- liltt-rati ly applied, could ever Iaj the ili- rect c;ai:.e of these reputed results. To achieve the end dcriii'fd Spartan boys p:is:.cii ineir vom.'i in learning tunes. hymns s:nd songs: this was their sole ment.il culture. Thev were taught to dance:!!'.'.! Leep step to (ho measure of the o!i;;-;;;:s they hang them. And, grown to !:.:!. IkkmI, now jierfect wurrlora, in:iii In d into battle with smiling faces, crivnel with flowers, calm, joyful ami serene, and, intoning tl eir Kongs, moved steasalv thus into the thickest of the light, undisturbed and irresistible. The band that leads our armies to tho (icld of battle nowadays i .? r. i; :-.r.t rrrvlvl of rsparian practice, yet even in this music by proxy there are many elements of incitement to courage, The National Review. A West Virginia Diana. The most celebrated hunters of tho sec- :ion are lion r.astman, Jule liaker, a woman, and Louis Chidester. There is a law to protect deer, but it is not observed. Out cf season venison u called mountain mutton. Julo Baker is the wife of Joan Baker, and lives near tho mouth of Black Water fork. She can handle a V mchester with the dexterity and pre cision of Old Leatherstockinc:, and hun dreds of deer and bear have fallen vic tims to the unerring bullets from her rifle. Bob Eastman sa3-s he saw her plunging down tho mountain eido through six inches of snow one day. with two rifles and a bear trap strapped to her bacK and followed by 6ix doses. She ran three miles to a point where she thought a deer m full chase would crpua, and sho got there in time to see her husr band kill him. She is a big, black haired woman, very industrious, with a heart as large as her foot, and she is the mother of seven children. She ts not pretty. A few months pgo, for a silver dollar, sho carried a valise weighing over 100 pounds, seven miles for an engineer. 1 is said that on cm occasion bhe carried a sewing machine froin Grafton to her loine, a distance of biity miles. Balti more American. A Prosperous Hotel Porter. There is one hotel porter in Chlcasro who lias not the distinction of behi'' the oldest man in the business, yet he is un doubtedly the wealtiuest. I he aristo cratic tourist who makes his home at tho Grand Pac ific during hi stay in Chicago is greeted on his arrival by a tall man of genteel apiearance, who takes his big traveling bag with a Chesteilieldian Low and conducts him to the foot of the ele vator. This man is John Culliton, the richest hotel porter in the world. Culli ton is said to bo worth more than 1UU,- 000, and lives in elegance on Park avenue. lie prides himself on the mem ory of names and faces, and knows everv public man in America who haa chanced to 6top at tho Grand Pacific hotel. Ho is always msted on tho railway time tables and ij prepared to give his opinion readily on tho amusements in the city. Like his contemporaries, who enjoyed the profits of ticket scalping before that business became a specialty and was controlled by agents, lie made an inde pendent fortune and continually added to it. He has ten assistants, who receive SCO a month each and their board. Chicago News. Tho Sumo John. Marriage is not transformation. John will be as cross when he is hungry, as 1...-w . . . T : . ,. i :ii i T giuiu nuill uinuuulll, Willi DUSineSS anxieties, r.s uncomfortable when his collar chafes li'u ueck--iq a word, as human and as fallible a John wedded as single, lie is a good ton and brother, yet betrothed Mary has heard him speak impatiently to hid mother and tartly to his nister. lie will, upon what he reck ons as sufficient occasions, be !oth pert and petulant with his wife when once the '-new chy" has worn off. Were thi: net true he would be an angel, anil angel3 do not wear tweed bu.-i.-'ieta suits and Derby hats, or have dyspejja end smoke more than . whfnuptiiu f ;r perves and pocket. ' Pills tiro peyer- presented to cherubim t most ingeniously- incon venient times, and seraphim have no natural but thin pkinned conceit that will not brook wifely criticism. Marion liar land. More Than Ho Hoped Por. Entering the shop of his tailor the ether. day, he said: "Sir, I pwp you. 10." "Yes, iir, you do." "And I have owed it for a year?" "You Iiave." "And this is the fifth postal card vou have sent regarding the debt?" "1 think t is the tilth,." "Now, sir" while I cannot nav the debt for perhaps another year. I propose to protect my character as far as possible. Here are twelve penny r.tamps.. You can use them in sendinar me twelve monthly statements of account, und can thus save your postaj ca.rds and my f ee- It is said that the' tailor h.ia credits! the shilling on account.'and feels that he has secured more of the debt than ho had any reason to. hope for.ew York One of the Richest Sovereigns. The little princess of the Netherlands. when she becomes queen of Holland., will be one of the richest sovereigns.' ir not the richest sovereUm. in EuroneL The pjyil list pf Holland, which is secured on. the revenues pf Borneo, ia very large 3,000,000. per annum, it is said. The duchy of Luxembourg passes to the grand duke of Nassau, and then becomes a portion of the German empire, but the kingdom of Holland, not coming under the operations of the Salio av, descends to the dcing's. littte daughter. She is a Plight. Vtlheent, clever child, with a good uV 1 pi character and dctermina- tin. "t 13d For suitable Holiday fine line of ilk and Cashmere Mufflers and Silk Handkerchiefs at Fancy Linen Table, in Stamped Goods and Tinsel Tidies. . On our CLOAKSiPLUSH SACQUES we have placed specially low forest the purchaser. For HANGING LAMPS, FANCY CUPS AND SAUCERS and Fancy Glassware see part meat. X. -AND ALL STOVES, HOUSEHOLD GOODS. -LATEST WIIsTDOW KEPT CONSTANTLY ON HAND. PICTURE SIXTH STREET, BET. MAIN AND itlllMiflYfl IK YOC WILL CALL AM) f - AND JEWELRY That Frank Carruth fc Son has 1 'resents. IVice.s are such that it would not pay to cross the street, let alone going to Omaha, this ye.ir. All thf-y ask Is AN OPPORTUSTZTT! To ehow you the Fine Goods and (live Vou Prices on every thing yu could ask tor in the line, which will he Hold if they have an opportunity. A. LI TTLE Will g farther this year than call and see the Display of fine FBATJK C&TWUTtt & SON, Dovey la bels, Plattsaaa.ou.tli. J.H.EM0AS,M. 1). -HOYIEOPATUIC Physician I Surgeon Office over Wjcott utore. Vitt street. ItrrideDre. in Dr. Sfhildknechl's property. Chronic DiPap ami Dle iw tl Women and Childreu a specnUty. Oiliue lioure, 9 to 11 a. in. S to 5 Rinl T to u W. rrTetep.o- at boU O9oe as4 Eelcne JVJO Presents we are showing ft s very reasonable prices. Sets and some pretty designs prices, low enough to in- through our Queens ware De- 4. E L 2v ZfcT, DEALER IX FURNITURE, KINDS OF STYLES OF- CURTAmS TO CBLEH VINE. PLAITS JXl'JIF, NEP. l.K TIM-: LAlttiK STOCK OK WATCH hef n-e Ti ircliasin Christina CASH ever hefore goods. Don't Fail to B. 6l tfl. TimalTable. coin-; WK-r. No. 1. r. Ait a in. No. a-, -41 :4i, lit. No, fi :47 a. til. No. 7. 7 . in. No. :17 p. n. i'o, 2.-4 aa . ii.. o. 4. Hi :r . m. No. 6 7 :13 . hi. Xo.j.10. M a. ui. No. 11 6 -7 a. in. A'l train run dally by wavof Omaha. ce No. 7 and 8 which run to and from He daily except Sunday. N'. W la a stub to Pacific Jar No. ht hi a Htub from Pacific uie full r